owners manual
MODEL NO. 306.23393
CAUTION!
Read Rules for Safe Operation and Instructions Carefully
CRAFTSMAN SAW SHARPNER ATTACHMENT
- Assembly
- Operating
- Repair Parts
Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A. and SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
CRAFTSMAN SHARPNER FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY
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If, within one year from the date of purchase, this Craftsman Sharpner fails due to a defect in material or workmanship, we will repair it free of charge.
This warranty service is available by simply contacting any Sears store or Service Center throughout the United States.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
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GENERAL SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS FOR POWER TOOLS
- 1. KNOW YOUR POWER TOOL Read the owner's manual carefully. Learn its application and limitations as well as the specific potential hazards peculiar to this tool.
- 2. GROUND ALL TOOLS
- 3. KEEP GUARDS IN PLACE and in working order.
- 4. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES Form habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before turning it on.
- 5. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents. Floor must not be slippery due to wax or sawdust.
- 6. AVOID DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT Don't use power tools in damp or wet locations. Keep work area well lit. Provide adequate surrounding work space.
- 7. KEEP CHILDREN AWAY All visitors should be kept a safe distance from work area.
- 8. MAKE WORKSHOP KID-PROOF — with padlocks, master switches, or by removing starter keys.
- 9. DON'T FORCE TOOL It will do the job better and safer at the rate for which it was designed.
- 10. USE RIGHT TOOL Don't force tool or attachment to do a job it was not designed for.
- 11. WEAR PROPER APPAREL No loose clothing, gloves, neckties or jewelry to get caught in moving parts. Rubber soled footwear is recommended for best footing.
- 12. USE SAFETY GOGGLES
Safety goggles must comply with ANS Z87.1-1968. Also use face or dust mask if cutting operation is dusty.
13. SECURE WORK
Use clamps or a vise to hold work when practical. It's safer than using hands, frees both hands to operate tool.
14. DON'T OVERREACH
Keep proper footing and balance at all times.
15. MAINTAIN TOOLS WITH CARE
Keep tools sharp and clean for best and safest performance. Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.
16. DISCONNECT TOOLS
Before servicing; when changing accessories such as blades, bits, cutters, etc.
17. AVOID ACCIDENTAL STARTING
Make sure switch is in "OFF" position before plugging in.
18. USE RECOMMENDED ACCESSORIES
Consult the owner's manual for recommended accessories. Follow the instructions that accompany the accessories. The use of improper accessories may cause hazard.
19. NEVER STAND ON TOOL
Serious injury could occur if the tool is tipped or if the cutting is accidentally contacted. Do not store materials above or near the tool such that is necessary to stand on the tool to reach them.
20. CHECK DAMAGED PARTS
Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged should be carefully checked to ensure that it will operate properly and perform its intended function — check for alignment of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting, and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly repaired or replaced.
21. DIRECTION OF FEED
Feed work into a blade or cutter against the direction of rotation of the blade or cutter only.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
| Guarantee | 1 |
|---|---|
| General Safety Instructions | 1 |
| Table of Contents | 2 |
| Assembly Instructions | 3 |
| Assembly Instructions (continued) | 4 |
| Learn the Kinds and Uses of Circular Saws | 5 |
| Popular Tooth Styles | 5 |
| General Sharpening Data | 6 |
| 5 Basic Steps for Sharpening Saw Blades: | |
| Step 1 — Jointing the Blade | 6 |
| Step 2 – Grinding the Hook Angle | 7 |
| Step 3 — Shaping the Tooth | 8 |
| Step 4 — Setting the Teeth | 9 |
| Step 5 — Bevel Grinding the Teeth | -11 |
| Top Grinding | 12 |
| Tooth Spacing | 13 |
| Care and Use of Grinding Wheels | 13 |
| Saw Blade Templates | 14 |
| Hand Filing | 15 |
| Suggestions for Best Results | 15 |
| Repair Parts List | 16 |
| How to Order Repair Parts | Back |
| N72 . |
ASSEMBLY
1. Use a bolt at rear (left or right) that now holds your grinder to bench or pedestal through ½" hole in S-307 BASE PLATE for permanent mounting. BASE PLATE is reversible for your choice of right-hand or left-hand mounting. Right-hand is usual.
2. Bolt S-302 FRAME to front middle hole in BASE PLATE with Z-97, Z-98 3/8" x 1-3/4" flat head cap screw and nut. Other holes allow adjustment for unusual diameter saws.
3. With S-300 SAW LOCATING STUD set vertical, use washers to raise S-305 ARM until machined surface of S-303 SAW ARBOR is level with center of motor arbor. In case motor is low – block it up first.
4. Install 6 x 3/16" grinding wheel furnished with 3/4" arbor hole and 5/8" and 1/2" bushing to fit your motor arbor. Use proper spacer such as extra saw bushing or thick washer if arbor does not have enough threads for nut to tighten outside collar against wheel.
5. With S-300 SAW LOCATING STUD parallel to grinding wheel, adjust scale pointer to "O" which is longest mark.
GENERAL SHARPENING DATA
As shown in Fig. 1, install the blade over the Saw Locating Stud with cutting teeth pointing to the right. The Saw Locating Cone is then installed and locking knob tightened. The tapered design and weight of the Locating Cone automatically centers any blade having arbor hole from 1/2-inch to 2-inches in diameter. When installing the Locating Cone, do not press DOWN before locking into position, as this will cause blade to bind and will not rotate freely.
FIGURE 1
As shown in Fig. 2, use your Dressing Brick to shape the grinding wheel. This shape allows you to form the saw tooth and also produces the desired rounded gullet. Periodic use of Brick also deglazes the grinding wheel to bring up new cutting surface and helps keep wheels grinding cool.
We suggest you obtain a discarded saw blade and first practice getting the "feel" of your grinder. While practicing, you need not use the T-340B Feed Screw — its' use and adjustment will be covered in detail later. Use both hands and push (practice blade) saw tooth lightly against the grinding wheel. Rotate the saw blade while at the same time grinding down back of the
tooth into gullet. As you practice and become familiar with this procedure you will find your speed increases and you are able to shape the tooth easily and lessen your tendency to 'burn' the tooth points.
5 BASIC STEPS FOR SHARPENING CIRCULAR SAW BLADES
STEP 1 - JOINT TO TRUE ROUND
Joint down to dotted line as shown in Figs. 3 and 4. This will bring the saw to true round with every tooth point in cutting circle and provide stock so you can grind new teeth of proper shape.
Turn Feed Screw to grind longest tooth first. A slight pressure holds saw against Feed Screw. Turn saw clockwise and go clear around. Adjust Feed Screw as needed and repeat to contact shortest tooth.
If the adjustment on the Feed Screw becomes loose, you will find a nylon plug at the top of the S-310 Link. This nylon plug extends into the threads of the T-340B Feed Screw. The pressure of the nylon plug against the Feed Screw prevents it from vibrating out of adjustment. To set the plug, take a set punch or blunted nail and place on the plug and strike with hammer or mallet. This forces the nylon plug against the threads of the Feed Screw. Repeat as often as necessary to maintain the proper pressure.
FIGURE 3
STEP 2 - GRIND HOOK ANGLE
Hook angle of a saw tooth is the pitch or angle of a line from the point of the tooth, along the tooth face, to a point of varying distance between the arbor hole and rim of the saw.
Use a straight edge or sight a line along the left side of the grinding wheel to the point of the tooth. Then slide ARM so straight edge continues as shown for the type saw you are grinding. Tighten nut to hold ARM in this position.
Start the grind slightly below tooth point. Push saw into grinding wheel at slow even rate. Turn saw clockwise as wheel goes further down the tooth face to produce a straight line. Set Feed Screw for your new gullet depth. Continue around saw. If tooth points are unevenly spaced, adjust distance between points to bring them uniform.
Note: For saws below 10-inch diameter the tooth hook angle need not be held more than halfway down from point into gullet.
HOW TO SET UP FOR PROPER HOOK ANGLE (Identify tooth style from Chart on Page 5)
POPULAR STYLE RIPSAW TEETH
POPULAR STYLE CUT-OFF TEETH
POPULAR STYLE COMBINATION TEETH
Style 'A' or 'C'
Style 'S' or 'V'
RIP TOOTH: Hook angle runs from tooth point to a position half way between saw arbor hole and rim.
CUT-OFF TOOTH: Hook runs from tooth point to arbor hole of saw. Style "M" cut-off teeth have hook to saw arbor hole running from tooth point through exact middle of V-tooth. This is called "V-pitch".
COMBINATION TOOTH: Hook runs from tooth point to position one-tenth of the way from saw arbor hole to rim.
STEP 3 - SHAPE TOOTH BACK
Note: Your best work will result with LIGHT grinding. Keep saw rotating smoothly so as to avoid "biting" into back of tooth.
STYLE A
Set Feed Screw so grinding wheel just clears bottom of gullet. Start grinding at this point. Grind up the back of the tooth turning saw counter clockwise. Pull saw toward you as you turn it.
Tooth point receives very lightest grind so it will not go below joint circle. Go around the saw. Repeat same operation as many times as required – each time taking only a light cut on remaining teeth that need additional shaping.
STYLE C
Grind style A. Then flat back clearance that drops below saw joint line approximately 15°.
Grind back clearance with wheel dressed straight across.
Move ARM so tooth point lines with right side of grinding wheel and clearance is ground by straight push into wheel.
Set Feed Screw. Grind each tooth, push saw straight into wheel without revolving it.
STYLE N
Start grind just back of tooth point. Turn saw clockwise and push toward grinding wheel to grind a straight line to gullet. Set control screw at depth you want. A good depth for gullet is 3/4 of the distance between tooth points.
Grind lightly and repeat around saw until all teeth are finally brought to uniform shape and depth.
STYLE M
Dress grinding wheel to shape illustrated at right.
Adjust Feed Screw to bring wheel into bottom of gullet to give adequate size for sawdust clearance.
Start grind just below tooth point, turn saw clockwise and push it into wheel.
Grind down to new gullet depth you have decided upon. Repeat several light grinds around the saw until every touch has desired shape. Final grind will include very light touch at the tooth point.
STEP 3 - SHAPE TOOTH BACK (continued)
STEP 4 - SET THE TEETH
"Set" is the common terminology for the method of providing clearance for a saw blade in the cut of material being sawed. A uniform even set is essential for an easy running, smooth cutting saw. There are three methods for providing this clearance in the cut. They are; (1) Spring Setting, (2) Hollow Grinding, (3) Swaging.
-9-
- 1. Spring-Set: This is the most common method of setting. See Figure 1. Notice that the teeth are bent alternately right and left.
- 2. Hollow-Ground: See Figure 2. Although this drawing is exaggerated for illustration purposes, this is the method used to provide clearance in hollow-ground blades. Notice that the thickness at the rim and arbor is much greater than in the body of the saw. You can see that if you sharpened down too far or if the blade has been sharpened too many times, there will no longer be clearance in the blade.
- 3. Swage-Set; See Figure 3. Similar to hollow-ground, but only the teeth are larger than the body of the saw. Various methods are used to spread the teeth, but most commonly a hardened steel dye is placed over the tooth to be swaged and struck with a hammer or a mallet.
Improper clearance (set), besides jamming and binding during ope and, may cause a blade to overheat and cause cracking which may render the blade dangerous for further use. The blade also will not cut true, pulling to the side on which there is a greater amount of set.
On saw blades that are not hollow ground or swaged, you must set the teeth to obtain the correct side clearance.
The amount of set on each side of saw generally is:
17 gauge and thinner – 1/64-inch 13-16 gauge saws – midway 1/32-inch to 1/64-inch 12 gauge saws and thicker – 1/32-inch
Set generally begins to bend one-fourth the way from point to gullet.
If you do not have a saw set, you can use a punch and anvil. A temporary set may be made from a piece of hardwood beveled ½ inch from end at 10°. Use a nail at saw arbor to help insure uniform projection of teeth over bevel for uniform set.
Set every other tooth in opposite direction away from the beveled edge of the tooth. When setting heavy gauge saws you will need to go around the blade two or three times to obtain the proper set.
On Style 'S' Combination Saws, set cutter teeth to duplicate original style. Start with the back tooth in each section. Most manufacturers prefer to bend tooth in the starting section to the LEFT, following teeth on alternate sides. Then, start the next section to the RIGHT and repeat. However, there are manufacturers that start each section the same. Do NOT set the raker teeth.
STEP 5 - BEVEL GRIND TEETH
The bevel is ground on the opposite side to which the tooth has been set. Use care to grind bevel ONLY – do not hit point on the tooth.
It is important to avoid grinding points of the teeth. Always inspect teeth after finishing the bevel grind to be sure cutting edges are clean and sharp. Be sure points are high enough to provide back clearance.
Remember that only sharpened points can do the cutting so the point must enter cut first.
Place the saw blade on ARBOR with teeth facing clockwise and slide ARM to give the blade center pitch (See Page 7). Keep in mind that the bevel need not extend over one-fourth to one-half way from the point. Set Feed Screw for this grind, and remove the saw blade.
As illustrated in photo at right, use a straight edge to line up the TILTING ARBOR GUIDE with the left side of the grinding wheel at forward stop.
Replace the saw blade, and follow the instructions for that particular style blade.
-STYLE N and STYLE S Cutting Teeth -
- 1. Dress 1/8 or 1/4-in. wheel to sharp right bevel. Make sure to shape so right edge of wheel does not hit back of tooth next to one on which you are working.
- 2. Move Base Arm to give center pitch hook angle.
- 3. Tilt Arbor to left 10°.
- 4. Chalk first tooth with set pointing UP.
- 5. Set Feed Screw to stop wheel about one-third short of bottom of gullet.
- 6. Bring wheel into face of UP set tooth and take light grind down to stop.
- 7. Starting at forward stop, grind UP back of next tooth. Avoid hitting points. Pull blade clear of point when turning saw to next UP set tooth.
- 8. Continue down face of teeth set UP and up back of teeth set DOWN clear around saw.
- 9. Tilt saw to right 10° and chalk mark first tooth set DOWN.
- 10. Grind as on other side except start down on the face of teeth set DOWN and continue grinding up back of the UP set teeth.
CUT OFF SAW BEVEL "M" STYLE -
Dress wheel to v-shape shown. Make angle sharp enough to give side clearance.
- 1. Move Base Arm so that wheel lines up thru center of tooth to eye.
- 2. Tilt Arbor to left 10°.
- 3. Chalk mark first tooth with set pointing UP.
- 4. Set Feed Screw to stop wheel about 1/3 short of gullet.
- 5. Grind DOWN face of UP-set tooth and UP back of following DOWN-set tooth, rotating saw with right hand.
- 6. Pull blade clear of point and turn saw to next UP-set tooth. Continue as in 5
- 7. After going clear around saw as in 5 and 6, tilt saw to RIGHT 10°, and chalk first tooth set DOWN.
- 8. Grind as on first side except start down on face of teeth set DOWN and continue grinding up back of following UP-set tooth.
TOP GRINDING
Use grinding wheel dressed to flat face.
Rotate TILTING ARBOR GUIDE 90° from bevel grind position. Place saw on ARBOR, teeth pointing clockwise. Line tooth set DOWN with its point at left side of grinding wheel and slide ARM to give shape you want.
Grind each tooth set DOWN with ARBOR tilted down 10° - 15° toward wheel as desired, until all are ground uniform. Tilt arbor UP same amount and duplicate grind on teeth set UP.
When working with "C", "V", or "S" style blades to be used for combination ripping and cross-cutting on electric hand saws, most users prefer to give the teeth a 15-degree top bevel.
TOOTH SPACING
Tooth outlines on saws vary according to which manufacturer made them and how they have since been filed. It is neither desirable nor possible for you to change the tooth outline completely the first time you sharpen a saw. It is best to gradually correct wrong tooth shapes over a period of several sharpenings. The same applies to spacing between teeth. It is desirable to have exactly uniform distance between teeth. Equal spacing of teeth should be accomplished in successive sharpenings.
The popular electric hand saws come in various styles and with different shapes of eye. Your saw locating cone will fit the diamond and square eyes the same as standard round holes. However, a special adapter will be necessarv for the "long oval" eves. You can have these adapters made locally.
CARE AND USE OF GRINDING WHEELS
GRINDING WHEELS must be of proper grit, grade and bond. You can expect best results from using wheels supplied with your SHARPNER as they have been carefully selected for THIS machine. Don't use poor grinding wheels that glaze or fail to hold their shape. Don't neglect to keep your wheels properly dressed.
Before placing a new grinding wheel in service, check for any damage that might have occurred during shipment. Place a screwdriver through the arbor hole and "tap" side of wheel with a solid, non-metallic object.
"Tap" wheels about 45 degrees each side of the vertical centerline and about 1 or 2 inches from the rim as indicated by the four spots in the figure at the left. Then rotate the wheel 45 degrees and repeat the test. A sound and undamaged wheel will give a clear metallic tone. If cracked, there will be a dead sound and not a clear ring.
Grinding wheels must be mounted between clean, true collars with blotters between wheel and collars.
As your grinding wheels wear down too small for saw grinding put them aside for other bench grinding.
CIRCULAR SAW BLADE TEMPLATES
Saw manufacturers often design blades with varying specifications to meet specialized requirements. Therefore, if your blade is in good condition we recommend following original specifications even though they may vary slightly from standard. However, if you are unable to determine original angles, the templates below show one saw manufacturers specifications. You can safely make minor variations without sacrificing saw performance.
HAND FILING
Many experts who grew up as saw filers insist on hitting the back of the point with two strokes of the file. It gives the same effect as honing a planer blade, and adds a finishing touch. It is the first thing that many users do when they receive new saws from the manufacturer.
Best Saw Files are Cant Saw File for fine tooth saws, 8-in Mill Bastard File for coarse tooth saws.
File every other tooth on one side all around the saw, with the set. Then reverse saw in vise and file every other tooth on opposite side.
File must not get into tooth gullet because it may leave sharp corners that will cause saw to crack.
SUGGESTIONS FOR BEST RESULTS WITH YOUR SAW SHARPNER ATTACHMENT
A Circular Saw should cut cleanly and easily and should not require an unreasonable amount of force to feed the wood. The continued operation of a dull saw because changing it would temporarily stop production or is a bother, means decreased output and puts a great strain on the saw and on the machine.
Keep circular saws round and sharp. When a saw does not cut easily, it is usually dull or has lost its set or swage. If you force the feed in this condition, you will heat the saw on the rim and it will expand and cause cracks.
Do not allow saws to accumulate gum or pitch on the sides. This may cause them to run warm and snake. The best method of removing hardwood gum from the side of the saw is to soak the blade in hot water for a few minutes, then wipe it away. Never scrape off gum with a sharp tool.
Frequent sharpening of saws not only keeps production up, but is an economical action from the standpoint of saw cost. For example, when a saw has been run dull for some time, considerably more metal is removed to bring it back in service than if it were sharpened oftener.
Grinding wheel must be mounted between clean, true collars with blotters between wheel and collars. Dress wheels true and shape them to the tooth you are grinding.
Sharpen saws at a rate that will give the grinding wheel time enough to cut free and clean. Feed the grinding wheel easily and evenly. Plan on a final light "tough-up" grind over whole tooth.
Overheating and burning of the work can be avoided by taking repeated light grinding cuts instead of trying to remove too much metal at each pass. Special care is required at the tips. Practice drawing the work past wheel as rapidly and lightly as you can at an even speed. This helps avoid localized heat that causes burning.
When the wheel face glazes, gums or fills, it should be dressed. Hold the dressing brick furnished against grinding surface. Use a light touch and move brick back and forth as needed.
REPAIR PARTS
SEARS SAW SHARPNER ATTACHMENT
MODEL NUMBER 306.233930
| Key No. | Part Number | Description |
|---|---|---|
|
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1 |
S-300 | Saw Locating Stud |
| 2 | S-301 | Saw Locating Cone |
| 3 | T-393A | Control Knob |
| 4 | S-303 | Saw Arbor |
| 5 | S-304 | Saw Arbor Guide |
| 6 | S-305 | Arm |
| 7 | S-306 | Knob |
| 8 | S-307 | Base Plate |
| 9 | S-310 | Link |
| 10 | S-311 | Washer, 1-3/8" x 9/16" x 1/16" |
| 11 | S-312 | Bearing |
| 12 | T-340B | Feed Screw |
| 13 | S-302 | Frame |
| 14 | S-316 | Pointer |
| 15 | Z-97 | Hex Nut, 3/8-16 |
| 16 | Z-98 | FH Cap Screw, 3/8-16 x 1-3/4 |
| 17 | Z-99 | Carriage Bolt 1/2"-13 x 3" |
| 18 | Z-3 | Nut 1/2"-13 |
| 19 | 238 | Dressing Brick |
| Not Shown | 636 | Grinding Wheel 6"-3/16" |
| Not Shown | 637 | Wheel Bushing 3/4-5/8 |
| Not Shown | 639 | Wheel Bushing 3/4-1/2 |
owners manual
MODEL NO. 306.23393
Sears SERVICE is at YOUR SERVICE wherever YOU live or move in the U.S.A.
CRAFTSMAN SAW SHARPNER ATTACHMENT
How to ORDER Repair Parts
The Model Number will be found on a plate attached to the Base Plate. Always mention the Model Number when requesting service or repair parts.
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. or SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED retail or catalog store. If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOW-ING INFORMATION AS SHOWN IN THIS LIST.
- 1. The PART NUMBER
- 2. The PART DESCRIPTION
- 3. THe MODEL NUMBER 306.23393
- 4. The NAME OF ITEM Saw Sharpner Attachment,
Your Sears merchandise takes on added value when you discover that Sears has over 2,000 Service Units throughout the country. Each is staffed by Sears-trained, professional technicians using Sears approved parts and methods.
Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A. and SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
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