RADIAL-ARM SAW Starter projects
CRAFTSMAN
CONTENTS
Introduction Woodworking Terminology _____ 2 Project Procedure 3 Wood Selection _____4 Sanding & Finishing Special Operations Section 6, 7, 8, 9 Projects: Toy Steam Boat Robin Shelter _____12 Book Ends Carved Wood Trav Cribbage Board _____18 Table Top Chest Toy Wagon _____ 22 Hot Pad _____ 24 Chess/Checker Board 26 Octagon Wren House _____28 Cutting Board _____30 Candle Holder Trio 32 Miniature Chest ______34 Doll Cradle .................................... Bird Feeder _____ 38 Craftsman Saw Blades _____39 Attachments 40
PACE
CRAFTSMAN RADIAL ARM SAW "STARTER PROJECTS"
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INTRODUCTION
Starter Projects for the Craftsman Radial-Arm Saws features projects that will be of value to Craftsman Radial-Arm owners in many ways.
New saw owners will find building projects outlined in this book an enjoyable way to familiarize themselves with the operation of this remarkable tool. For experienced users, completing the projects will
result in new ideas for self-designed projects.
Completion of the projects will also result in a greater awareness of the tremendous versatility of this tool and the ease in which normally difficult woodworking operations can be accomplished. Most projects can be cut and assembled in one or two evenings. Material cost is low-the results gratifying.
Although this book is not meant to be the "written text book type", you should read the brief instructions and carefully study the plans before starting each project. Beginners should familiarize themselves with another Craftsman publication: "Know-How" with your Craftsman Radial-Arm Tools.
A Special Operations Section is included in this book to help you with some interesting, but not so "standard" type of operations.
Use common sense and observe normal safety procedures in using your Radial-Arm Saw.
Take your time, do your best and above all, enjoy yourself!
Author: Lloyd Kreitz Craftsman Power Tool Expert Industrial Arts Instructor B.S. Degree University of Minnesota
Lloyd D. Kreitz
WOODWORKING TERMINOLOGY
The terms listed below will help the beginner to understand the instructions for each project.
Bevel
The bevel is an angle cut that is made clear across the edge or end of a work piece. The bevel is primarily a construction cut that is used when one piece is set at an angle to another piece. Bevels are easily made by positioning the radial arm tool in the bevel crosscut or bevel rip positions.
Chamfer
The chamfer is primarily a decorative cut that is made across the corner of a piece. It never runs completely across the work piece. Chamfers are easily made by positioning the radial arm tool in the bevel crosscut or bevel rip positions.
Crosscutting
This shall mean any cut which can be made by traveling the carriage from the back toward the front of the table along the arm.
Dado Cuts
The dado is a cut or groove that is wider than the kerf of a regular saw blade. This can be accomplished by making a series of overlapping cuts
with a regular saw blade or by using a dado set or 'head'.
Gain
A groove that is closed at one end by stopping short of the opposite edge of the work piece.
Groove
Any width of two-sided slot cut in a work piece from one edge to another (usually crosscut)
Miter
When two pieces are cut to an angle to make a joint, it is called a miter. The common miter is made up of two pieces cut at 45 degrees to form a right angle.
Plough
The name sometimes used for a groove that runs with the grain (usually a rip out)
Rabbet
A groove made along the edge of a work piece so that it has but one side and a bottom.
Ripping
We shall define this as any operation in which the work piece is traveling along the fence and fed to the blade with the carriage stationary.
PROJECT PROCEDURE
Mental Attitude
The first step in starting a woodworking project is to assume the proper mental attitude. To achieve this attitude first know your personal capabilities, choose a project to match these capabilities, and then decide that you are going to do your very best. Do not become discouraged if you err; make up your mind to do better the next time.
Planning
The easiest way to 'handle' any project is to 'plan it through' so that you can do all like operations with your radial arm tool at one time. This procedure requires that you secure a project blueprint or sketch a plan of your own. Decide on materials to be used (See Wood Selection), gather these materials and then lay-out each workpiece before operations (other than rough sawing) are started.
Joints
Next, make all joints that are to be made with the dado head, a router bit, or a regular saw blade. Group like joints and like operations so that you can finish with each set-up before proceeding to the next. Make all joints carefully—neither too loose nor too tight, but just a snug fit of the 'bare' boards. A very little bit of sand-
ing afterwards will provide plenty of 'roominess' for the glue.
Decorations
If any decorations (such as grooving) call for one of the joint making setups, do these while preparing the associated joints. Otherwise, plan your decorations now, in the same manner that the joints were planned. Now sand all workpieces to finish dimensions, as required.
Assembly
With all pieces cut, fitted, decorated and sanded, you can now start the final assembly. If this calls for the use of screws or nails, set-up to drill the required holes (in groups according to sizes) and do the drilling prior to any gluing and clamping. Also, if any surfaces that will be hard to reach after assembly require finish (fine) sanding, do this sanding prior to assembly (after drilling); but, if practicable leave exterior finish sanding until after assembly.
Final Sanding and Finishing
Finally assemble your project, gluing and/or screwing and nailing it according to plan. After it is all assembled (and the glue set, if used) fill all holes, etc.—then finish sand. The last job (after finishing) is to mount all hardware.
An important step in the planning of a project is the selection of a wood that will be practical and suitable. The size of the projects contained in this book have deliberately been kept small so that material costs will not be an important factor in constructing them. In fact, most of this material can be found in your "shorts" bin or "scrap" box. However, the cost of material will be an important factor in planning larger projects of your own.
Where the project is to be used and what it is to be used for, will certainly be a consideration in wood selection. If the project is to be a bird house or a bird feeder, a wood that will withstand the weather such as Redwood or Cedar would be appropriate.
Another consideration might be choosing a wood of an appropriate grain and color. Hardwoods such as Walnut, Cherry, Mahogany and Oak are very beautiful in their natural color, (without stain, with a clear finish). Most of the projects in this book have been finished in this way. Some projects require that the wood be stained to achieve a desired color.
Below I have a list of suggested woods to be used in the construction of the projects shown in this book. All of these should be readily available from your local lumber dealer. There may be others that you will want to use that are just as suitable. The first wood listed is the one used to build the projects pictured on the following pages.
Use the best-the difference in
WOOD SELECTION
cost is slight compared to the value of your efforts!
- 1. Tug boat—Pine, fir.
- 2. Robin Shelter—Pine, redwood, cedar, exterior plywood.
- 3. Book Ends—Soft maple or any other hardwoods.
- 4. Wood Tray—Walnut, cherry, mahogany.
- 5. Cribbage Board—Cherry, walnut, mahogany.
- 6. Table Top Chest—Soft maple, cherry, maple, mahogany.
- 7. Toy Wagon—Pine.
- 8. Hot Pad—Walnut, cherry, oak, mahogany.
- Chess or Checker Board—Walnut & cherry, walnut & maple, mahogany & maple.
- 10. Wren House—Pine, redwood, cedar, exterior plywood.
- 11. Cutting Board—Walnut, cherry, maple.
- 12. Candle Holder Trio—Walnut, cherry, mahogany.
- 13. Miniature Chest—Cherry, walnut, mahogany, oak, maple.
- 14. Doll Cradle—Pine, plywood.
- 15. Bird Feeder—Exterior plywood, redwood, cedar, pine.
Sanding
No finished surface can be better than the sanding that prepares it. Incomplete or poorly executed sanding always results in an unsatisfactory finish.
Hand sanding should always be done with a sanding block—avoid applying direct pressure on the sandpaper with your hand, as an uneven surface will result. Hand sand rough wood with a 1/2 or 1/0 open coated garnet paper. Smooth sand with a 2/0 garnet paper. Do the final finish sanding with a 6/0 garnet paper.
When using a Craftsman portable electric sander the same sequence is followed. You might want to use an aluminum Oxide paper of the same number.
After each sanding operation, wipe the surface free of dust using a cloth dampened in turpentine or mineral spirits.
Wood Filling
Open grained woods such as walnut, mahogany, and oak should be treated with a paste filler to obtain a smooth finish. (See instructions supplied with the filler.)
Staining
Fundamentally, wood stains are used to change the color of various
types of wood, and to bring out their grain beauty. Most projects pictured in this book have not been stained. If you wish to stain your project, do so before applying a wood sealer. Oil stains are very popular with home craftsmen. Apply stain with a brush and then wipe it off with a cloth. Additional coats may be applied if the first is not dark enough. Oil stains have a tendency to bleed into varnish and must be sealed after drying with a prepared sealer, or a wash coat of shellac.
Clear Sealers
It's a good idea to use a clear sealer on your project even if it hasn't been stained. A wash coat of shellac will do this job. Mix one part of shellac to two parts alcohol and apply with a brush. Rub down between coats with 6/0 sandpaper, then apply Sears Master-Mixed Clear Satin Varnish. Do this in a room that is as dust proof as possible. After the first coat has dried overnight, sand lightly with 6/0 paper or fine steel wool and apply a second coat. Sand this coat lightly and apply paste furniture wax-polish with a soft cloth.
Many new wipe-on sealers and finish coats are now available. Ask about these at your Sears store paint department.
A. CROSSCUT COVE CUTTING (Arm "O," Carriage, "Traveling"
CUTTING COVES
The cove cut is easily made with the Radial Arm Tool. This is primarily a decorative cut used for moldings, framing material, and other woodwork.
Crosscut Cove Cutting
For short enough workpieces you can place the controls in either the in-rip or the out-rip position, with the arm at O, but with the carriage traveling. Lower the blade 1/16 to 1/8 inch for each new pass and continue making passes until the desired depth (or width) is reached.
Note: The above operation is used to make the veneer trim for the Small Chest on page 34.
Rip Cove Cutting
For longer workpieces, place controls in a crosscut position with the arm at O. Position workpiece against the fence, center lowest tooth of the blade over centerline of the cross-cutting, only now you will feed the work along the fence to the blade. Lower the blade 1/16 to 1/8 inch for each pass.
Note: The above operation is used to remove the section between the dished areas in the Wood Tray on page 16. Be sure blade angle is at 45 degree.
Some Interesting Coves
Faster, easier coves can be cut with the blade 'angled' so at least some of its cutting edge is being used to do the cutting (not just the sides of the teeth). Also, some very interesting shapes can be produced.
To 'angle' the blade you can change the miter
B. RIP COVE CUTTING (Arm "O," Carriage, "Stationary"
angle and/or the bevel angle. The miter angle can be changed by moving the arm, or by swiveling the yoke. Always miter in a direction that exposes the cutting edges of the blade teeth to the work, rather than the teeth backs. For example, swivel the yoke to the right if you are feeding from an in-rip position. Also, use the anti-kickback pawls when ripping.
To cove the workpiece for the Chess or Checkerboard, swivel yoke to the right 70 degrees and follow the rip cove instructions. (See photo C)
Note: The following instructions describe cuts used to make cove shapes in the Candle Holders on page 32 and the Bird Feeder on Page 38.
By varying both the miter and bevel settings you can produce quite an assortment of cove shapes. To cut cove shapes for the decorative veneer on the Candle Holders position the arm at O and swivel the yoke to 221/2 degrees to the right and tilt blade to the 45 degree position.
Cut cove by pushing the blade into the workpiece.
Never attempt to cut away more than 1/8 inch of stock in a single pass. For a smooth finish, make the final cut as 'light' as possible.
Follow the same procedure for the cove shapes used in building the Bird Feeder. Cove shapes in feeder walls are made by swiveling yoke to the right 45 degrees and tilting the blade 45 degrees. (See photo D)
Coves for the cupola walls are cut by swiveling the yoke to right 30 degrees and by tilting the blade to a 45 degree bevel setting.
Arm "O," Yoke Swiveled, Carriage, "Stationary")
CROSSCUT COVE CUTTING (Arm "O," Yoke Swiveled, Blade at Bevel, Carriage, "Traveling")
II SLIP FEATHER MITER
To make the slot for the miter, place saw in
E. SLIP FEATHER MITER (Arm at miter angle, Blade Horizontal, Carriage, "Traveling")
the horizontal crosscut position. (See photo E) The saw blade shaft end of the power unit is vertically down (blade parallel to table top). Use an auxiliary table or clamp a board to the saw table to raise the workpiece so blade can be centered between the workpiece top and bottom surface without blade end of the shaft rubbing against the saw table. Use a higher fence to allow for additional table height. Position saw arm to make an angle cut across the mitered corner. Adjust the workpiece sideways along the fence for desired depth of cut. Mark this setting on the fence. Make the cut. 'Slice' the wedge to proper thickness by measurement—then trim to proper size.
Note: The Hot Pad on page 24 and Cutting Board on page 30 have been assembled before making the Slip Feather cut. The wedge will greatly increase the strength of the "flat miter joint."
F. WOOD DISC CUTTING (Arm "O," Carriage, "Traveling")
III DISC CUTTING
Wooden discs can easily be cut with your Craftsman Radial Arm Tool. This operation does not require a special attachment.
Start by clamping a board to the saw table, one edge against the fence. (See photo F) Drive an 8d nail through the center of the workpiece. (Workpiece should be a square equal to, or larger in size than diameter of the disc to be cut out.) Now drive the same nail into the clamped board. The distance from the nail to the saw blade should equal the radius of the disc to be cut. Make repeated cuts across the workpiece, turning the workpiece a short distance after each cut. Continue this procedure until the workpiece is perfectly circular. If you wish, substitute the sanding disc attachment
for the blade and sand the workpiece smooth by turning while it is still in the nailed position.
Note: This procedure is used to shape the wheels for the Toy Wagon on page 22.
IV DISHING CUTS
Here's a simple method to make shallow dishing cuts for Project 4. Carved Wood Tray and Project 2 Robin Shelter Mark exact center for the dished area on a board larger than the desired finished workpiece. (The oversize allows area for clamping and for finding exact center.) Clamp workpiece to the saw table. Next center the blade over area to be dished out. Tilt blade to 45 degrees when locating the center. Lock carriage in position. The blade should still be in the 45 degree bevel position and should be slightly above the workpiece. Now insert a small chip of wood (about 1/8 x 1/2 x 1/2 inch) into the small vertical slot containing the Bevel Latch Handle (see photo G) The Bevel Latch Handle should be in the up or release position and the wood chip inserted underneath. This will keep the bevel indexing pin from locking and allow the Power Unit to pivot freely. With your left hand, hold discharge elbow and swing the power unit so blade is in the vertical O position. With your right hand, turn elevating handle to lower the blade about 1/8 inch. Start the saw and pivot or 'swing' blade through 90 degree. Pivot the blade back to the vertical position Stop saw and check the small dish cut for exact center Make adjustments for center by moving the workpiece. Make repeated cuts lowering blade less for each pass as diameter of dish increases. Make a very 'light' cut on last pass to get a smooth finish.
Note: The dishing cut is used for the Wooden Tray on page 16 and Robin Shelter on page 12.
. DISHING CUTS (Arm "O," Blade Pivoting, Carriage, "Stationary")
H. FREE HAND DISC SANDING (Arm "O," Carriage, "Stationary")
TOY STEAM BOAT
Cut out hull and cabin parts as indicated on the plan. A safe practice is to clamp dowel rod to the saw fence before cutting. Attach your Craftsman Precision Geared Chuck to your Radial Arm Saw, and use a 1/2 inch or 3/8 inch bit to drill dowel holes. Mark off centers and drill holes in cabin parts first. Use Craftsman Dowel Centers to locate centers for dowel holes in the boat hull. Sand dowel ends for easy assembly and disassembly of boat. Finish sand and paint.
ROBIN SHELTER
Start by cutting 4½ inch diameter dish in bottom item 4. (Optional) See instructions for dishing on page 9. Start with an oversize piece of wood to allow for centering dished area and to make for safe clamping. Cut bottom item 4 to finished size and make cuts at the front end. Cut end panel item 1 and side items 5. Assemble these pieces with glue and nails. Next cut rafters, items 6 using method shown on plan. Again be sure to use a piece large enough to allow for safe handling. To cut gussets, as shown, use a long ¾ inch x ¼ inch strip, make 45 degree cuts at point then saw to length. Repeat for each gusset. Glue finished rafters to walls using Craftsman Plastic Resin Glue. Also glue gussets on both sides of rafter ridge joint. While glue is drying, cut roof panels, item 3, using exterior plywood or cedar shingles. Cut roof cap item 2 from ¾ inch stock. Glue roof panels to rafters. Glue roof cap item 2 in place. Sand, stain and varnish or paint
BOOK ENDS
Cut 3/4 x 55/8 x 71/4 inch pieces to size. Chamfer top corners. Make cut across bottom edge to receive sheet metal as shown on plan. Finish sand both pieces. Next cut the decorative pieces. Study plan detail for this carefully. Set saw blade at the 45 degree angle and set in rip position. Rip a 3/4 x 3/4 x 36 inch piece so that it has a 45 degree bevel on two sides. Then set saw arm at 45 degrees, saw blade at 45 degrees, and make a compound angle cut through triangular strip. Reverse direction of the material and make a second cut exactly at the top point formed by previous cut. Repeat for each decorative piece. Rub these pieces against a piece of sandpaper held flat on bench top to finish. When sanded, glue pieces to front of holder as shown on plan. Be sure to remove excess glue from wood surface with a damp cloth. Use Craftsman White Glue. Cut sheet metal bases and screw to wood uprights. Varnish, or stain and varnish. Glue pieces of felt or blotter paper to bottom side of metal pieces to protect furniture.
CARVED WOOD TRAY
Before starting this project, refer to pages 6 and 9, Items I and IV, Special Operations Section.
Cut the workpiece to width and length allowing some scrap to make allowances for difficulty in hitting dead center in the dishing operations. Lay out a complete pencil drawing on the board showing the centers for each dishing cut. Place the workpiece against the saw fence and secure it between two pieces of wood clamped to the saw table.
Now follow the instructions for dishing on page 9. Reverse the workpiece, and with the workpiece again against the fence, make the second dishing cut. Now make a rip cove cut (see page 6) to remove the areas between the dished circles. It will be noted that the power unit remained in the same position on the arm during all three operations. Also, be sure that the blade is at a 45 degree bevel for the rip cove operation. Trim the workpiece to finished size and cut the chamfers. Sand and finish.
CRIBBAGE BOARD
Make the board width 3/8 inch oversize so door material can be ripped from this piece to assure a matched grain. Next rip the 3/16 inch thick door material from the board. Cut board to finished size Lay out recessed door area on side indicated on plan. Use a stopped groove rip cut to recess this area. Chisel unfinished end square and at same time chisel out the 5/16 inch deep "door swing area." Lay out 3/32 inch diameter holes on top of board. Center punch each hole and drill to depth of 1/4 inch. (Use a drill press or attach a chuck to your saw and set up for vertical drilling.) Use a stop block on your drill bit to insure equal depth of each hole. The Craftsman Fence Attachment will speed up drilling of each line of holes. Next bore out the card compartment using a 1/2 inch bit. Square corners. finish bottom and walls with a chisel. If you have a Craftsman Drill Press, the Mortising Attachment works great for this. Bore hole for pin storage. Lay out and cut dados for inlaid strips. Cut inlay strips and glue in place. Cut door to size being careful to match wood grain and obtain a snug fit. Drill hole for the door pin hinge with the door set in position. Insert pin and fill pinhole end with wood putty: Make cutout for thumbnail with a half round file or sandpaper wrapped around a piece of dowel rod. Sand Cribbage Board and finish
TABLE TOP CHEST
Rip a chamfer along the length of a 3/4 x 8 x 50 inch board. Cut a 1/4 inch rabbet along opposite edge of this board. Cut item 2 top, and item 4 sides, from this board.
Next groove a 1/2 x 3/4 x 56 inch piece for door material. Miter these pieces at 45 degrees as shown on the plan to form cabinet doors.
Use your Craftsman Molding Head Set to shape the edge of a board to be mitered and used as feet for the chest. Cut other parts as shown on the plan. Assemble with clamps, glue, and nails. Be sure to place metal screen in door before gluing doors together. Screen can be obtained from hardware stores or as scrap from local sheet metal or ornamental iron shops. Spray metal screen gold or bronze. Sand, stain and varnish as you desire.
TOY WAGON
First cut items 1, 2, 3, and 4 to size. Next cut the 13/16 inch wide and 7/16 inch deep groove in sides 2. Use your Craftsman Dado Head for this operation or make repeated ripping cuts. (Before cutting the wheels to circular shape, check page 8', Special Operations Section for proper procedure.) Bore 3/4 inch holes in wheels and sides to receive axles. File or sand holes for loose fit. Child should be able to remove wheels and axles for storage in box. Drill hole at one end to receive pull string. Finish, sand all pieces. Assemble box using glue and finishing nails. Paint. Top should slide freely in grooves after painting.
HOT PAD
Start by setting up your Craftsman Dado Set for a 11/16 inch cut. (Make repeated cuts if using standard blade.) Make 24 dado cuts on a 1/2 x 6 x 33 inch board as shown in Figure 1 and plan detail. Start first cut at the very end of board. Next rip this board to 11/16 inch wide strips as shown in Figure 1. Cut six pieces 15-13/16 inch long from these strips. Check to see that these six pieces each include twelve complete dados before cutting these to length. This is more important than keeping exactly to the 15-13/16 inch length. Place these pieces on edge and make 3/16 inch deep cuts as shown in Figure 2. Before turning these pieces over for second cut, remove two of the six. These two strips will be used as side pieces and should contain 3/16 inch deep cuts on one side only. See plan. Now turn remaining four pieces over and make cuts. Repeat this exact procedure on remaining strips. When finished, cut these strips to 7-9/16 inch length so they contain six complete dado cuts. Now, glue these pieces into the half-lap joint assembly as shown in plan detail. Frame the assembly as shown on plan. Be sure to measure the half-lapped assembly to insure proper length of these pieces. When entire hot pad is glued together make slip feather miters. See page 7, Special Operations Section.) Sand with a Craftsman Portable Electric Sander. Finish by hand-rubbing with boiled linseed oil
CHESS OR CHECKER BOARD
Use hardwood of contrasting color such as Walnut and Maple for the checkerboard squares. Cut and assemble as shown in detail at the top of plan. Cut a 5/8 x 13/4 x 60 inch strip for the outside frame. (Refer to page 6, Special Operations Section before cutting the cove in the outside frame pieces.) For this operation, set saw in the in-rip position with the yoke swiveled 70 degrees to the right. (Use a protractor to set.) Complete coving operation, 45 degree notching, and 3/16 x 11/4 rabbet before mitering piece into four pieces of 181/8 inch length. Assemble with glue and clamps. Use Craftsman White Glue. Carefully remove all glue from wood surfaces and corners with a damp cloth. Sand to a high polish and varnish.
OCTAGON WREN HOUSE
Start by cutting the octagon-shaped base. Be sure base is perfectly square before making 45 degree angle cuts. Next cut wall pieces. Bore a 1 inch hole in one wall piece, then glue pieces to base using Craftsman General Purpose Quick Setting White Glue. Cut roof pieces while glue is drying. When wall pieces are dry, drive galvanized nails through bottom of base into wall pieces.
Roof rafters are cut as shown on plan detail. Next cut roof sections. Have blade angle set at 10 degrees when cutting sides of the triangular shaped roof sections. Glue rafters to walls using Craftsman Plastic Resin Glue. Rafters must rest on the corners of octagon. Top of rafters must be trimmed slightly to allow room around 1/2 x 21/2 inch dowel. Apply glue to rafters and balance in place against dowel. (This may require having someone hold the dowel while first two rafters are positioned.) Check rafter spacing with a roof board. Glue roof sections in place between rafters. Be sure the short roof section is placed over the house entrance. Sand, stain, varnish, or if you prefer—paint.
CUTTING BOARD
Rip pieces of hardwood into 3/4 x 3/4 inch strips. Stack strips and cross cut to 1 inch lengths. Glue pieces to form a 9 inch square. Use Craftsman Plastic Resin Glue. When glue has dried, cut off corners as indicated on plan. Next, rip cut a 3/4 x 1 inch x 36 inch piece of hardwood. Use this piece to make up the wood border around the assembled squares. Glue border pieces to board. (Slip feather miter as shown on plan and described on page 7, Special Operations Section.) Sand cutting board with a Craftsman Portable Electric Sander. Finish by hand rubbing with boiled linseed oil.
CANDLE HOLDER TRIO
Cut blocks A first. Next shape block B. Allow extra length at both ends of block B for safe handling while cutting and to insure correct position of the flame-shaped cove cut. Make the cove cut first. Set the arm at O, swivel yoke to 221/2 degrees (right) and tilt blade to the 45 degree position. (Refer to page 7, Special Operations.) When block B is complete, glue a scrap piece on it for safe handling while cutting off strips C. Glue strips C to blocks A. Fasten so holder comes out square. When glue has dried, sand faces of strips C. Finish as desired. Purchase candle sockets or use sections of metal tubing as substitutes.
MINIATURE CHEST
Start by cutting items 1 through 6 to size. Be sure all cuts are perfectly square. Make dado cuts in items 3 and 5. Make all 45 degree chamfer cuts on items 2. 3. and 5. Make rabbet cuts on item 5. The chest feet are formed by making 45 degree cuts and repeated dado cuts at the bottom of item 5. Note that base item 5 is a solid piece of 3/4 inch stock. Next finish sand all pieces. Assemble all pieces (with the exception of the doors) using Craftsman White Glue. Wipe all excess glue from wood surface with a damp cloth to avoid staining. Next make a cross cut cove to shape veneer for door fronts. (See plan and Special Operations Section page 6.) Allow plenty of excess stock at both ends of this piece for correct positioning and safe handling. Cut cove to its length before marking and cutting ends. Glue veneer strips to the door fronts. Again, be very tidy with glue. When glue has dried, sand the face of the veneer pieces. Your Craftsman Portable Electric Sander will make this job easier. Apply finish to entire chest before hinging doors. A small piece of wood glued to underside of the chest top will act as a door stop. Position and install small door knobs. Shelves or drawers may be added to the chest if desired.
DOLL CRADLE
Lay out the cradle back on a piece of 3/4 x 15 x 32 inch glued up solid stock or plywood. Locate centers for holes and draw lines for areas to be routed. Lay out all other cradle parts. Be sure to mark a center line on both front and end pieces. Do all layout work before shaping parts.
Now cut out the cradle back. Use a Craftsman Taper Jig to make tapered side cuts. Curved ends can be cut by making a series of angled strait cuts with the saw and then sanding smooth to shape, use a Craftsman Karbo-Grit Abrasive Sanding Disc attachment on your saw. Tilt the sanding disc to 10 degrees to make the curved shape at bottom of the back piece. Use back of the cradle as a pattern to mark the curve on front part of the cradle. Follow the same procedure for cutting out this piece.
Next convert your saw for routing and boring by attaching the Craftsman Precision-geared Key Chuck. Use a 3/4 inch Craftsman Wood Boring Bit to bore holes in the back of the cradle. Use a Craftsman 1/8 inch Strait-Face Router Bit in the chuck to make decorative grooves. Finish sand all parts, then assemble using Craftsman White Glue and finishing nails. Paint as desired.
BIRD FEEDER
Start by cutting bases 16 and 17. Next rip a 3/4 x 3/4 x 46 inch piece that will form upper frame sections 8 and 9. Before cutting these pieces to length set up your Craftsman Dado Head for a 1/4 inch cut and cut a groove through the length. Next cut the 1/4 inch grooves in base 16. Remove dado head. Now cut 17 pieces of 1/4 x 2 x 13 inch plywood. Clamp these together and shape items 12. (Study the plan detail and page 7 in the Special Operations Section before making these cuts.) Swivel the saw yoke to 45 degrees and tilt the blade to 45 degrees for this operation. The saw arm remains in the 0 degree position. Lower the blade about 1/16 inch for each cut and push blade slowly into the material. Splintering will result on the last piece which is an extra. Next cut nine 1/4 x 11/4 x 11 inch cupola pieces using the same method. For this shape, swivel the saw yoke to the right 30 degrees (use a protractor) and tilt the blade to 45 degrees with the arm at 0 degree.
Now mark and cut items 12 and 3 to size. Glue these pieces together as shown on the plan. For this project use Craftsman Plastic Resin Glue. Cut plywood items 10 and 11. Glue these to inside of the feeder walls as shown in plan detail. Next cut the rafters items 6 as shown in the rafter detail. Start with an oversize piece to insure safe handling while cutting. Rafters can be glued and nailed to roof pieces items 5 before fastening to upper frame. The upper frame and roof assembly merely rests on the walls and should not be permanently fastened. Entire roof assembly is lifted off walls to fill glass hopper with feed.
Sand all pieces before assembly. Paint as desired.
CRAFTSMAN SAW BLADES
- 1. Chisel-Tooth Combination An all purpose blade made for smooth, fast cutting in any direction.
- 2. Free-Cut Rip Enables you to make fast, free and accurate cuts with the grain of both hard and softwoods.
- 3. Thin Rim-Satin Cut Veneer Blade Thin rim for smooth finish cuts on plywood, veneers, laminates, etc.
- 4. Thin Rim-Satin Cut Combination For smooth and accurate cuttings of all solid woods. Rips, crosscuts and miters.
- 5. Professional Dado Set Ideal set for heavy duty dadoing. Saws up to five times longer than ordinary sets. Six 1/8 inch
chippers and two saw blades 1/8 inch thick. Washers furnished to make width of cut 1/8 inch to 11/8 inch.
- 6. Free-Smooth Cut Combination For furniture and cabinet work where smooth and accurate cuts are needed. Enables you to make cuts in any direction. For ripping, crosscutting and mitering.
- Carbide-Tipped Universal Blade Stays sharp longer, cuts faster, smoother, feeds more evenly, uses less power, rip, crosscut, miter, and bevel. Cost is just a fraction of what you'd spend for many ordinary steel blades in the same time.
- 8. Ply-Tooth Saw Blade Designed for finish work, plywood veneer, cellotex, thin plastic and all types of wood.
ATTACHMENTS
to Increase Work Scope for your Radial Arm Tool
- 1. Craftsman Hold-Down Maintains proper dimensions in making picture frames, moldings and fine finish work. Safely and accurately holds narrow strips for ripping and splitting.
- 2. Craftsman Shaper Guard If you intend to do much shaping, you should have one.
- 3 Craftsman Eence Attachment A fence for shaping operations. A "must" for shaping circular work.
- 4. Craftsman Tapering Jig Makes taper cutting easy and accurate.
- 5. Craftsman Wire Wheel Buffing Wheel and Buffing Compound
- 6. Craftsman Radial Arm Tool Book 11. Craftsman Molding Set Covers set-ups and operations for Craftsman radial arm tools.
- 7. Craftsman Drum Sander Made to thread directly onto your tool's accessorv shaft.
- 8. Craftsman Karbo-Grit Abrasive Sanding Wheel & Adapter Coarse grits on one side, medium grits on the other side Adapter is ideal for surface sanding
- 9. Craftsman Precision-geared Key Chuck Converts your radial-arm saw for routing drilling and many, many, other operations.
- 10. Craftsman Rotary Surfacing Planer Does a fast, smooth job of surfacing planing on any workpiece that will fit on the worktable.
- Converts your radial saw to a jointer, planer, shaper.
SEARS ROEBUCK & CO.
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