A Homemade Shaper Table
It is easy to convert your router into a bench shaper. With such a set-up you can more easily accomplish such operations as: 1) Shaping the entire thickness of a workpiece edge; 2) Routing all the way through a workpiece to create a slot or produce latticework; 3) Carving small plastic pieces by looking through the plastic; 4) Grooving parallel to a straight or curved edge of any workpiece too small to be conveniently held for ordinary routing. All you need is a workbench inset under which your router can be mounted, together with a wood fence, as shown above.
Cut the 12-in. sq. inset from 1/4in. hardboard. Drill a 1-1/4-in. hole at its center. Remove the router base plate. Position hardboard on router base with the hole centered over router spindle and the router depth-of-cut scale facing one (the front) edge. Mark and drill three holes in hardboard, countersunk on top side so that the
base-plate mounting screws can be used to secure router to underside of hardboard.
Mount the hardboard inset in your workbench with its front edge 6 in, or more back from front edge of workbench and one side 12 in or more from nearest workbench end. To mount it, lay it on bench and trace its outline on the bench. Cut an 11-in. sq. opening in bench top, leaving 1/2-in, all around inside of traced outline. Rout the opening edges out to the traced outline to 1/4-in. depth - so hardboard will set in flush with bench ton Set it in and secure it with ers Mount the fence on bench top about 18 in. to inner side of router spindle, having it long enough to reach outer end of bench (for clamping) when rotated into
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. — U. S. A. SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED — CANADA
Index
SAFE OPERATION IS JUST GOOD COMMON SENSE
- DO NOT Allow sawdust to clog the motor air vents or the tool. DO DO Keen a firm hold on the tool when cutting 2
- bo keep a firm hold on the toot when cutting and also be certain that the workpiece is securely held by a vise, clamp or fixture.
-
DO NOT Handle the running tool carelessiy, allow your fingers or hands to get too close to the revolving cutter, or use an improperly secured workpiece set-up. DO Tighten all adjustments securely - be
- fore starting an operation.
- Disconnect the electric cord when installing or removing cutters.
-
DO NOT Make any adjustments while the tool is running.
- Be certain that the tool is properly grounded when in use.
-
DO NOT Use the tool under circumstances in which water or excessive dampness could cause a ground through you.
- Keep your tool, motor and cutters clean.
AN ELECTRIC CHISEL AND CARVER COMBINED
Either model, lightweight Craftsman Power Router is a very versatile workshop tool. Properly handled, it will perform like an "electric chisel and hand carving knife" to accomplish — with power — many otherwise tedious jobs. With it, you can do grooving (square, round, dovetail or V bottom, straight or curved lines), mortising, inlaying, edge shaping (inside or outside edges), carving (pattern or freehand), dovetail jointing... and many similar jobs
THE POWER Pouter
which cannot be done half so easily by hand, or even with other types of power tools.
The excellent tool adjustments and accessory guides available help you to do precision work. However, as with any powerful, high-speed tool, your router does require accurate set-up and handling — and you will need some practice — in order to turn out the quality work for which your tool is designed. Keep this book — and study it.
CRAFTSMAN Power Tools
Router Bits - Tupes and Uses
Following are the various Craftsman Bits available for use with the Power Router. There are two kinds the one-piece bits and the arbor-type bits, as explained below.
Craftsman High-Speed Steel Bits are especially hardened, tempered and Kromedge finished. The Sears
ONE DIECE BITS
Those hits have an integral 1/4into the collet chuck furnished with the power router.
STRAIGHT BITS
Flat on bottom - for grooving.
Available in Kromedge for wood -
DOVETAIL BITS
serted - and for shaping the
"V" GROOVING BITS
exclusive Kromedge finish means
provide tougher smoother-cutting
hits tipped with tungsten carbide
These bits have threaded bores instead of sharks - must be used with the threaded Arbor shown. They can be used only for sideways cutting into the workpiece edge to decorate the edge. Each may be used with or without one of the two different diameter pilots furnished with the arhor When used without a pilot, the Edge Guide or some other type of guide is
used to space the cut: but if a pilot is used
ARBOR & PILOTS
BEAD & For decorating cabinet, table, etc.
COVE BITS
DOVETA!L TEMPLATE
Router Accessories
The quick, sure guide for perfect cutting of flush or rabbeted dovetail joints for drawers, etc.
LAMINATED PLASTIC CUTTER
Will cut and edge laminated plastics, phenolics and similar tough laminates . without chipping. Makes straight or 70o-bevel edge.
CUTTER GRINDER
TRAMMEL POINT
BUTT-HINGE TEMPLATE
perfect circle 2 to 26 in. grooving or edging.
ing or shaping special
of work . for paralleling any curved edge.
General Routing
THE SUB-BASE
The phenolic sub-base (attached to the base with three pan-head screws) provides a glass-smooth surface which will not scratch or mar a fine workpiece. When conditions or instructions warrant, remove it for using certain attachments or set-ups.
RATE OF FEED
IMPORTANT The whole "secret" of professional routing and shaping lies in selecting the proper feed . and in making a careful set-up for the cut to be made.
"Force Feeding"
Clean, smooth routing and edge shaping can be done only when the cutting tool is revolving at a relatively high sneed and is taking very small hites to produce tiny. cleanly severed chips. If the cutter revolves at a slower rom in relation to the sneed with which it advances through the workpiece, it must necessarily take bigger bites . to produce bigger chips and a rougher finish. Under extreme slow-down conditions the hites can become so large that the chips will be partially knocked off (rather than fully cut off) . with resultant splintering and gouging of the
Your router is an extremely highspeed tool (25,000 rpm no-load speed), but it will slow down in proportion to the load placed on it. "Force feeding" will slow it down. "Force feeding" is trying to advance too rapidly for the size of cut being taken in a workpiece
having a certain hardness, gumminess, dampness or other quality which makes cutting relatively difficult. You can always detect "force feeding" by the sound of the motor. Its high-pitched "whir" will sound lower and stronger as it looses speed. Also, the strain of holding the tool will be noticeably increased.
In addition to producing rough (even chipped) work, "forcefeeding" will overload the motor . will cause it to overheat, and may damage it.
"Standstill Feeding"
At the opposite extreme there is "standstill feeding". This results from feeding so slowly that there is not enough new wood for the cutter to bite into with each revolution. As a result, the cutter "bounces" around in the cut already made . may score and ripple the sides of the cut . may glaze them . may even burn them. At the same time the cutter, itself, may be burned so that it looses its temper — and its sharpness.
You can detect "standstill feeding" by listening to the "runaway" too highly-pitched sound of the motor; or by feeling the "wiggle" with which the cutter is bouncing around in its cut.
Proper Feeding
IMPROPER FEEDS
Instructions
The right feed is neither "forced" nor "standstill". It is the rate at which the cutter advances firmly and surely (without hesitation or noticeable laboring) through the work. If you are making a smalldiameter shallow cut in soft, dry wood, the proper feed may be about as fast as you can travel the tool along your guide line. On the other hand, if the cutter is big, the cut is deep, or the wood is hard, damp, gummy or knotty . then the proper feed may be very slow.
There is no fixed rule. You will have to learn by experience and by using good judgment. If at all possible, always test the cut to be made on a scrap of the workpiece wood.
DEPTH OF CUT
This is important only insofar as it affects the rate of feed. When using a small diameter bit on easy cutting wood, you probably can cut as deeply in one pass as the bit will go — and still be able to maintain the proper rate of feed. But as the bit size and/or the wood toughness are increased, the maximum advisable depth of cut in a single pass will be decreased. With the largest cutters we recommend — in general — that you do not ex-
ceed 1/8 inch depth in one pass. To cut deeper it is much better to make as many successive passes as required, each no deeper in new wood than 1/8 inch.
DIRECTION OF FEED AND THRUST
Your motor and cutter revolve in a clockwise direction. This means that the tool will have a slight tendency to twist in a clockwise direction, especially whenever the motor revs up (as at starting).
Because of the extreme high speed of cutter rotation during a "proper feeding" operation, there is very little kickback to contend with. However, should you strike a knot, hard grain, etc. that would affect the normal progress of the cutting action, there will be a slight kickback . sufficient to spoil the trueness of your cut if you are not prepared. Such kickback is always in the direction opposite to the direction of cutter rotation.
To guard against kickback, plan your set-up and direction of feed so that you will always be thrusting the tool — to hold it against whatever you are using to guide the cut — in the same direction that the leading edge of the cutter is moving.
If you are routing, tool travel should be from left to right and counterclockwise around curves — if the guide is positioned so that your thrust is as shown in the first accompanying illustration. But reverse this if the guide is positioned as in the second illustration. It is generally easiest to use the first set-up. (See following page for the two illustrations.)
If you are edge shaping, the feed should always be clockwise when working on an outside edge; but should be counterclockwise when doing an inside edge (accompanying illustrations). The reason for this is that when traveling the tool as instructed, the cutter will have a "chopping action"; but if you reverse direction, it will have a "gouging action". "Chopping" is much preferable to "gouging" as there is less danger of ripping out chips by tearing the grain.
PROPER CARE OF CUTTERS
It takes a sharp cutting tool to accomplish professional quality work. A dull cutter makes a sloppy or rough cut. Worse, it makes hard labor of an otherwise easy job . can even overload and damage your motor. Keep your cutters sharp (refer to p. 21).
Also keep cutters clean. Remove accumulated gum with Sears Gum and Pitch Remover. Avoid using sufficient excess force to cause the wood to smoke. Smoking wood means that the cutter is being overheated — may lose its temper.
Freehand Routing
Using any of the shafted, downward cutting bits, the router is an excellent, high-speed carving tool with which to cut freehand designs in wood or plastic. Side cutting screw-type bits can be used also, for edging raised portions or the sides of cut-outs. By combining various types of cuts (different bits) you can obtain original and distinctive effects. You can do:
- Scroll and design work for decoration
- Letter raising or indenting for signs
- Hollowing out of trays, bowls, etc. Carving, engraving, inlaving and similar
- artistry
Very little practice is needed to guide the router faithfully along pattern lines drawn or traced onto the workpiece surface. Soon vou can follow even intricate turns and curves . and the router cuts so rapidly through most woods or plastic quired to move it around. To follow lines. keep the router flat on top of the work (which should be firmly clamped or wedged to keep it stationary), and guide the router with both hands. When doing intricate work, rest your forearms on the surface for better control. Also, preferably use a veining bit to follow contour lines as this type of bit will help to hold the router "on course". Use the larger straight bits for removing scrap from inside an outlined area. If the area of scrap is larger than the router base - so that the base cannot rest on the elevated edges - attach a large enough piece of plywood or masonite to the base in place of the router sub-base,
It is difficult to make a truly straight cut freehand.
Straight-line cuts (grooves, rabbets, chamfers and cut-offs) can be accurately made by using the Edge Guide ( page 3 ) with the router to follow along a straight edge of the workpiece.
Set the guide onto the router base as shown, adjust it so that the bit will be the desired distance from the straight edge against which the guide will ride . then securely tighten the four holding screws. Note that the guide's face is recessed at center so that it can be positioned to partially encircle a bit if this is required in order to rout along an edge (to make a rabbet or shape the edge).
When set up, simply press the face of the guide firmly in against the guiding edge (or straightedge) as you feed the router to the workpiece.
A STRAIGHT GUIDE
The edge of your router base will slide freely along any suitable guide piece positioned so that you can press the base firmly against it. If you want a perfectly straight cut the guide must, of course, have an accurate, straight edge. It must also be hard enough to resist indentation - and must be clamped securely in position. We suggest a length of do-it-vourself aluminum bar (1x1/4-in. cross section) or accurately cut hardwood. Clamp both the straightedge and the work to your bench, offsetting the straightedge enough to place the cut at the desired location.
A BOX GUIDE
This is simply two straightedges fastened with crosspieces so that the router base will slide between them freely but without slop. Used as a guide for routing on flat surfaces it speeds the work as the router can be held down and pushed with one hand (on top of motor) while the other hand holds the guide. Clamping is thus made unnecessary, if you can hold the guide and work firmly. Sandpaper, glued to the underside of the guide, will make this easier.
A TEE SQUARE
This simple device is useful for making cuts (especially a series of parallel cuts) at a 90° angle to one workpiece edge. Make it as shown, preferably of aluminum or hardwood. Or you can attach the two pieces together with a countersunk bolt and wing nut - so that angles other than 90° can be obtained.
PARALLEL CUTS WITHOUT
If you have routed the first groove and wish to make a series of equally spaced identical grooves (straight or contoured), substitute a socket-head bolt for one of the three sub-base screws . to serve as a guide. Hold the router steady so that this bolt head will slide in the previous groove and so that the bit will always be exactly opposite to it (neither ahead nor behind).
EDGE SHAPING WITH ARBOR-TYPE BITS
If you have a curved-edge workpiece and wish to make a decorative groove (or grooves) just in from and "parallel" to the edge, or to shape the edge ... here are the simple methods that you will use:
•USING CONTOUR FINGER With the Contour Finger attached to the Edge Guide, as illustrated, the router can be made to follow curved edges against which the contour finger can be pressed. The guide can be adjusted to place the bit at any desired distance in from the edge. Practically any type of convex or concave curved edge that you will wish to "parallel"
can be followed
• USING ARBOR-TYPE BITS An Arbor Type Bit with Pilot attached will follow any edge — curved or straight — that the pilot can be held in against. If the workpiece is thick so that only the top portion of the edge is to be cut, the pilot will ride against the uncut lower portion. When all of the edge is to be cut, however, a pattern or other guide that duplicates the edge contour must be clamped to the underside of the workpiece for the pilot to bear against. With the two different size pilots furnished, each bit can be used for two different depths of cut.
Round, square and rounded-corner square table tops, trays, picture frames and similar objects can be cut out and shaped on both inner and outer edges — with the use of the Trammel Point, Edge Guide, and a few simple fixtures. If arbor-type bits are used the pilots are omitted.
FULL ROUND WORK
If you have the Trammel Point, it can be used as shown to afford a quick, easy method of circle cutting. If desired, a veining bit can be used to cut through the stock to shape a round disc, or a hollow round disc for framing a mirror or picture, etc. Afterwards, the outer edge (or both edges) can be rabbeted, chamfered or shaped in the same manner, using the proper bit.
SQUARE & ROUNDED-CORNER (OR END) WORK
Three types of wooden guide ed to it. as shown, these will guide the bit accurate-The square corner ular frame. "turning" the corners at a true 90° angle. The convex and concave blocks will guide the bit having the same radius as is used for inside edges while the second is used tern is provided for the block to ride against, you stock to make one-piece made frames, etc. can be used to guide the blocks for edge rabbeting. chamoperations.
Tapered legs
add grace and distinction to such
projects as tables, chairs, bed-steads, etc. The tapering can be quickly and neatly done with a router and a simple fixture such as the one illustrated. This fixture simply consists of a base with two equal straightedge sides, one fixed onto the base and the other loose (to be held with clamps as shown). The router will slide along the tops of the two sides (rails).
TAPEPING
Make a 1/4-in, wide by 9/16-in. deep rabbet cut along the top inside edge of each fixture side rail. Attach the 5/8-in, O.D. guide bushing to your router (bage 14), and install a 1/2-in. straight bit.
Use square stock and mark the taper lines on it (fig. A) . Prepare two wedges which can be used under the workpiece ends to lift it up as required (figs. B and C). Position the workpiece on the fixture against the fixed side rail, and wedge up its ends so that the adjacent taper line for the top side will be exactly matched with the edge of the rabbet cut in this rail (fig. B). Clamp the moveable rail in place to hold the workpiece securely . and check to make certain that its rabbet edge also matches the top taper line on this side of the workpiece.
Set the router for zero depth of cut at the low workpiece end .... then slide it along the rail tops to remove all stock that projects above the top taper lines. Do the remaining side tapers in the same way. Note, however, that when doing a taper opposite to one already cut, the wedges must be repositioned (fig. C).
DECORATING & SQUARE OR RECTANGULAR WORKPIECE
Fluting (grooving) or beading (removing enough stock to leave ridges) adds a decorative touch . is easily done with above set-up.
The accompanying illustrations show flute patterns resulting from two different set-ups. In the first, the leg is wedged up at the small end and clamped between the two fixture rails (just as for tapering. pressing vour Edge Guide against the outer side of first one rail then the other (to make an equal number of grooves at each side of the leg) will result in long Vs. If centered. parallel grooves are desired, place wedges between the tapered end of the leg and the fixture rails so the rails will be parallel to each other. The grooves can be made to surface at one end, if desired, by slanting the leg slightly in the
Set up and flute or bead each of the four sides in the same manner For fluting, use a small bit and adjust the Edge Guide to space the
flutes evenly. For heading use a larger bit to leave square sided ridges, evenly spaced. Sand the ridge edges later to round them as desired. A straight. V-groove. veining (round end) or even a small dovetail bit can be used to good effect.
WORKPIECE
If you have a wood lathe on which you have turned a cylindrical or tapered round leg - and if it has an indexing head - you can combine your router and lathe to produce flutes or beads for decorating the guide rail (as illustrated) are all you need. Adjust the tool posts to hold the rail parallel to the leg with the centerline of the slot exthe leg. Now, when the router base is moved horizontally along the guide rail, the bit will travel through the slot at a 90° angle to the groove to be cut. Plan your indexing to space the grooves or beads evenly around the leg. Remember. however. if leg is tapered, the grooves will be more closely spaced at its small end than at its large end.
- PATTERN DUPLICATING When the design calls for an outline having long and "gentle" curves and/or straight areas, and you wish to make a number of duplicates, use of a pattern guide assures you of a quick, simple method. Since the edge of the router base rides against the pattern edge (accompanying illustration), the pattern must be enough smaller than the finished work to allow for the distance between the bit and the router base edge. Clamped to the stock, the pattern serves as an excellent guide for routing clear through the stock to cut it off to the outline desired. Such a pattern can also be used for grooving workpieces to duplicate decorations.
- •USE OF A GUIDE BUSHING Any one of the three guide bushings ( bage 3 ) can be attached to the router base (with three screws furnished with bushings) as illustrated. The bushings have 7/16-, 5/8- and 1-1/16-in. O.D. pilots, respectively, for use with different bits and templates. Select the bushing and bit best suited for your template and type of cut you wish to make.
Pattern and Template....Routing and Edging
Duplicates are easily prepared, either by use of a pattern or a template. A pattern is a specially prepared guide made of plywood or hardboard. Templates are used in conjunction with one of the three Guide Bushings ( bage 3 ) available.
for attachment to the Router Base). A template may be made of plywood, hardboard, or sheetmetal, and is generally used whenever intricate design work (such as required for inlaying or latticework) is to be done.
- MAKINGANDUSINGATEMPLATE A 1/8in. thick sheetmetal or aluminum template is best for production type work, though plywood, hardboard, plastic, etc. may be used. Preparation of the template can be done with an electric saber saw or, if the material permits, by routing through along carefully traced pattern lines. Just remember when making the design to allow for the offset between the router bit and the edge of the guide bushing you will use. After preparing the template, simply clamp it to a piece of stock and rout out your design using the template edges as your guide. If corners sharper than your smallest bit will make are desired, cut these out afterwards with a chisel.
- INLAY WORK Inlaving requires the use of two templates, one (male template) for preparing the inlay pieces and another (female template) for preparing the routed-out spaces these are to occupy. The male template need provide be used, but these must be planned to be a hairline smaller than the female spaces into which they will fit. Prepare the male pieces by cutting clear through appropriate stock of 1/8 to 1/4-inch thickness . then route the female spaces into your workpiece about 1/64-inch deeper than this thickness. Glue the male pieces in place and, when dry, sand to a smooth surface finish. If wood is tastefully selected for colorings and grainings, really beautiful workpieces can be made
All fine cabinetwork uses dovetall joints for joining drawer fronts (and sometimes the backs, too) to the sides . and for other joints requiring the best of neatness and strength. But it is practically impossible for anyone other than a highly skilled cabinetmaker to prepare such a joint without using a dovetail bit and template. And
your router is the ideal powertool for holding the bit. Indeed, this one use of the router alone makes it invaluable!
To do dovetailing you will need the To do dovetailing you will need the Dovetail Template together with the Guide Bushings (hage ?) and the 1/2 inch Dovetail Bit (bage 2) The template is designed to 2). The template is designed to hold both worknieces to be joined so that both narts of the joint are cut simultaneously (to insure a nerfect match) The ich is simnly a matter of setting the worknieces into the template of installing the proper guide hushing and hit in your router and of then feeding the bit into the wood guided by the fingers of the temnlate comb
Both flush and rabbetted joints can be quickly made with this set up. Detailed instructions are packaged with the accessories.
SETTING UP THE DOVETAIL TEMPLATE
Install workpieces inside out – the drawer front on top and the drawer side in front – and clamp firmly as shown. For dovetail at left side of drawer, butt left edges of workpieces against the two locating screws shown; for right side dovetail, use locating screws on right side of template. These screws are placed in different holes depending upon whether a flush or rabbetted dovetail is to be made.
One of the most useful jobs of a router is making the recesses in doors and frames for the hinges and lock face. These recesses can be cut freehand, or with the aid of the Edge Guide and a Tsquare (if you lay them out carefully) . but considerable time can be saved and absolute accuracy guaranteed by use of the special
Butt Hinge Template illustrated on this page. This is especially true for production-type work.
The template handles square or round hinges up to 5-in. long . also 2 or 3 hinge doors up to 8-ft. high x 3/4 to 2-1/2-in. thick. Easy-to-follow instructions are included; set-up is quick and simple.
Laminated Plastics Cutting and Edging
Laminated plastics, phenolics and laminates having similar bonding agents are much too hard to be shaped successfully with ordinary tools. This special attachment and bit, however, enable you to shape and trim such materials quickly and easily, in a professional manner.
The Cutter Attachment (page 3) firmly positions and guides the router along any straight or curved edge . . , simultaneously positioning the bit for trimming the edge as desired. The Carbide-Tipped Bit (furnished with the attachment) will cut off stubborn edges smoothly and truly, without chipping or rippling. Consequently, it is an easy matter to finish almost any shape sink, table or counter top with a
hard-surface top and edge laminate of your own choice. Simply rough cut the laminate to about 3/8 inch oversize in each dimension and glue or bond it in place to overhang about 3/16 inch at each side: After the bonding agent has properly set, use your router with the cutter attachment and bit to edge the laminate down to correct size and contour. If covering both top and edges, apply and trim off the edges first, then apply and trim off the top to overlap the edge coverings.
Following the instructions packaged with it this attachment can be mounted on the router base quickly and easily. It is fully adjustable for width of cut — which determines the amount of material to be removed during the trimming process. Depth of cut also can be varied by using the router depthof-cut adjustment. By selecting the proper depth-of-cut you can obtain either a 90° straight, a 70° beveled, or a combination straight and beveled edge. This depends upon whether the straight or the beveled portion of the bit is aligned with the workpiece edge.
Sharpening Bits and Cutters
A dull or chipped cutting edge makes fine work impossible. It makes the router difficult to hold to a true line, makes cutting slow . and causes splintering and/or gouging. It may also overload the motor and, if used too long, may lessen the life of your tool. All together, the use of a dull or chipped cutter is extremely poor economy , especially when it is so easy to keep your bits and cutters razor sharp with this "foolproof" attachment.
A special grinding wheel for use in the router chuck is included A full range of circular and angular adjustments is provided so that you can accurately align any shape cutting edge with the grinding wheel surface. Once set for one edge of a two or three edged cutting tool these adjustments serve also to align the remaining edges so that all edges will be sharpened to identical proportions. A vernier type feeding screw (vertical adjustment) allows you to establish an exact setting for each successive pass of an edge over the grinding
wheel . and a built-in automatic blade stop makes it easy to rotate each edge in turn into exact position for a pass over the wheel. Thus, you sharpen the two or three edges of the cutting tool to one vernier setting (simply by sliding the attachment on its guide rail) . then repeat at as many additional vernier settings as required to make all edges equally sharp. Detailed instructions are packaged with the attachment.
Since metal removed from the outside of a bit changes its size, avoid sharpening on the outer surface more than absolutely necessary. Also sharpen end, main-
taining original bayels or as illustrated. 5° Touch the edges around the outer surfaces lightly to remove burrs.
NOTE All router bits and cutters may be sharpened with this attachment — exceptingonly the carbide-tipped bit (page 18) or any similar special-tipped tools. Such bits must be sharpened on a diamond wheel.
How to Rout Wood Joints
DADO, GROOVE AND RABBET CUTS
Description and Basic Set-Ups
A dado is a square groove cut across the grain, and similar cuts with the grain are called grooves or plow cuts. These cuts may be made in the workpiece surface, in
its end, or along its edge...but they always have two sides and a bottom to form a channel in the wood. If either type of cut is made close enough to the workpiece edge so that it has only one side and a bottom it is called a rabbet cut.
The methods of making all three
TWO USEFUL HOMEMADE HOLDING FIXTURES
SMALL WORKPIECE HOLDER
This adjustable fixture will help you to rout on the surface of a small workpiece by affording a means of clamping it securely to the bench. You can use 1/2- to 1-in. lumber as desired . . and can size the pieces to suit your requirements. Make identical rabbets on the two sliding pieces and the two rails so that adjustment will be smooth and free. Drive 1-1/2-in. finishing nails about 1-1/4-in. deep into the sliding pieces as shown then cut off the heads to leave sharp points. These will grip the workpiece, and the holes can be patched afterwards.
ON-EDGE WORKPIECE HOLDER
Preferably make the two rails (which should be identical in size) of 1- to 2in. lumber and the base of 1-in. lumber. Make the fixture length and the base width to suit your requirements. Support the stationary rail as shown — it must be rigid . For use, clamp in the workpiece and clamp the fixture to your bench as illustrated. Having the tops of the two rails identical (and flat) will not only provide a support for the router base to slide along . it will also allow you to set your edge guide to measure in accurately from the two sides of the workpiece.
cuts are identical. The only real differences between them are due to the locations of the cuts (in surface, edge or end) — which, of course, determine how the workpiece is to be held.
For making surface cuts (dados, plows or rabbets) secure the workpiece firmly, flat on your bench or other substantial support, so it can't slide or wobble. Use the Edge Guide, a straightedge, the tee square, the box guide, or any suitable method for making a straight cut. For long, through cuts a Shaper Table ( page 32 ) is most helpful.
For making end or edge cuts (dados, plows or rabbets) secure the workpiece in an On-Edge Holder (preceding page) . or clamp it in a vise between two equal thickness straightedge scrap pieces on which the router base will slide accurately. Use the Edge Guide pressed against the outer side of one (or the other) scrap block to guide the cut.
Through and Blind Cuts
Dados and plows are said to be through cuts if they extend from one workpiece edge to the other. When making such a cut across the grain, back up your workpiece with a scrap block to prevent splintering out the wood at the end of the dado. (This also applies when rabbeting across the grain, see page 19.)
The cut is called half-blind if it stops short of the far edge; is called a blind cut if it both starts and stops short of the edges. To make a half-blind cut, start at the edge and have a stop block clamped to the work to stop the router when desired. To make a blind cut, use a stop block or a mark to locate the starting point — and lower the router so as to drill a starting hole at this point. Finish the cut as for a half-blind one.
Wide and/or Deep Cuts
If a cut is to be wider than your largest bit, do it by making successive passes — each time readjusting your guide so that the next cut overlaps the previous one by about 1/16 to 1/8 inch. For a deep cut also make successive passes, lowering the bit a reason-
able amount for each new pass. When the cut is both wide and deep, do all the cutting at one depth, then proceed to the next depth.
MORTISE AND TENON CUTS
A mortise is simply a deep, blind dado or plow cut — and a tenon is formed by rabbetting one, two, three or four edges (according to the type of joint desired) of the mating workpiece. The only "trick" involved is to make your mortise and tenon fit together. This requires careful measurement and precise workmanship.
A Centered Mortise
Select a bit about 1/4 to 1/3 smaller than the width of cut. Adjust it to a reasonable depth of cut. Set your workpiece up in your "On-Edge" holding fixture or a vise, using equal thickness scrapblocks
at each side of it if this is necessary to provide an over-all width on which the router base can slide without wobbling. Carefully measure and mark the mortise area in pencil on the workpiece.
Now clamp starting and ending ston blocks in place as for a blind dado cut Next install and adjust your Edge Guide so that one side of the first rass will be properly located along one side line of the mortise area Start the router and make this first pass . then make a second nass with the Edge Guide pressing against the opposite side You'll now have a shallow cut covering the whole mortise area and exactly centered hetween the workpiece side. Proceed to deepen it as required in the usual manner.
An Off-Center Mortise
This is cut in exactly the same manner excepting that it is better to do it by using the Edge Guide along one side only, if possible. If it isn't too wide, use a bit the exact width of the mortise so that
one pass at each depth setting will suffice. If it is too wide for this, you'll have to make two or more passes at each depth setting, readjusting the Edge Guide for each.
A Centered, Four-Faced Tenon
This is the most commonly used type as it completely hides the mortise cut when the joint is assembled. There are two methods of setting up to make the cuts.
For the first method start with the same set-up as for the centered mortise. If possible, select a bit wide enough to exceed the width of cut required by 1/16 inch or more. Adjust your Edge Guide so that the cut will travel along your marked tenon line at one side (and overlap into the scrap boards at the side). Make one pass at each side leaving a perfectly centered shallow tenon . then proceed to deepen as required. You now have a two-faced, centered tenon. To make the other two faces, turn the workpiece edgewise in your holding fixture . and repeat the preceding steps.
Sometimes the second two (onedge) faces are made deeper or shallower than the first two (flat) faces. This, of course, would
faces. This, of course, would require a different Edge Guide setting...and choice of a different size bit.
If your bit isn't big enough to cut the full width of each face in one pass, preferably cut each face down to proper depth placing your cuts right along the tenon outline (and leaving the uncut wood around the outer edges). The uncut wood can now be removed on a bench saw without touching the finished tenon at center.
| NOTE |
|---|
|
Any reasonable number of work-
pieces can be simultaneously held in your fixture and cut, using this method. |
For the second method, layout your several workpieces as illustrated, clamping them securely to prevent wobble. Preferably use a straightedge guide . and simply make enough passes (re-locating the guide each time) to complete the rabbet cut that makes the first face of each tenon. Keeping the same depth adjustment, turn the boards to do the opposite face. Then do the remaining two faces in the same manner.
METHOD 2
NO
This method has the advantage (as a rule) of not requiring very deep cuts, so that one depth setting only is sufficient. But it has these disadvantages: The workpieces must be very securely held . care must be taken not to let the router dip down and round off the end pieces (best use scrap boards at the ends) . and it is more difficult to accurately locate the straightedge for each pass.
Other Types of Tenons
Tenons also are made with only
33 COMMON WOOD JOINTS FOR YOU TO ROUT
END-, MIDDLE-, TEE- AND Half-lap Joints
Flat Types
In all of these joints, both pieces (A and B) will have identical rabbet and/or dado cuts . providing both pieces are the same width. In this case, cut both pieces simultaneous by laying them side-byside (as for Method 2 Tenon Cutting). If the pieces are of different width you'll have to measure and cut the rabbets separately (except for the half-lap rabbets which are always equal).
On-Edge Types
These are similar to the above. They, also, can be cut simultaneously (with pieces stacked on their edges) if boards are of equal thickness. For all but the half lap, however, if boards are of unequal thicknesses each cut must be measured and made separately.
one two on three forces and
with faces of vorwing widths do
The same two mothods (above)
apply for making those variations
All routed mortises will have
rounded corners (to the radius of
the bit) . and all tenone (how
ever cut) have square corners
corners to fit, using a file or rasp: but the mortise corners can
he squared with a chical if pro
ferred. Also have a tenon about
1/64_in short of mortise depth -
to allow glue space
MIDDLE-LAP ON EDGE WITH GROOVE
The cut in piece A must be made with board on edge (to obtain a square bottom . and so must the mating cut in B. Make these to the same depth (x) equal to 1/2 the B piece width — and cut them simultaneously using a bit having a diameter equal to width z. Afterwards, make a second pass through piece B (only) to widen its cut x to the thickness of piece A. Last, cut the two side dados in piece B, gaging the depth (equal at each side) so that width z remaining will equal the width of the cut in A.
DOVETAIL LAP
This is a strong "push or pull" joint; but requires careful layout. A and B should be the same thickness. First, make the rabbet cut in B as you would an ordinary end lap, cutting to a depth 1/2 the board thickness. Using this same depth setting, cut the wedge groove in A . by first dadoing along each side line and afterwards cleaning out the middle. Your straightedge
guide must be repositioned for each side line cut. Last, make the shoulder cuts in B, preferably with a very thin saw followed by chiseling out the sharp angles.
COGGED JOINT
Reinforcing strips are often fitted to main frame members by this joint. With A on edge, dado its slot making it 1/3 as wide as thickness of B, and 1/2 as deep as the width of A. Now dado the two slots in B (cutting in the directions of the arrows) using the same depth adjustment and leaving the uncut center the same width as the slot in A. Square the corners of these two cuts with a chisel.
BOX JOINT
Stronger than a glued miter or plain drawer joint, this is used principally in box and crate construction . sometimes for drawers. Divide the width of your pieces (A or B) into an even num-
ber of equal segments. Prepare two scrap blocks each the width of a segment, and set up your workpieces as illustrated. If you have a bit the exact diameter of a segment width, use this . each cut can then be made in one pass. (Otherwise, select a smaller bit and make two passes.) Adjust your Edge Guide for cut 1 and make it. Either readjust the Edge Guide or place a piece of scrap (same thickness as other scrap blocks) between the guide and fixture . and make cut 2. For cut 3 (and as many more as required) continue readjusting the guide or adding equal thicknesses of scrap to space it out from the fixture.
THE VARIOUS DADO JOINTS
We list below six different dado joints. These vary in strength (as is obvious) and in application. In general, however, the first four types are used for installing shelves, drawer bottoms and similar suspended members which are usually supported at the ends (or the ends and one or both sides). The last two types make neat and strong corner joints for boxes, drawers, etc. if A is the front piece which will be pulled on.
The plain dado simply calls for a dado cut in B the thickness of A, and to depth as desired (generally 1/3 to 1/2 through B).
A drawer dado is the same, except that B is rabbet cut to fit.
The housed dado calls for a rabbet cut in A (about 1/4 to 1/2 its thickness) with a correspondingly smaller width dado in B. This joint will withstand swaying butter than the first two.
Best of the shelf joints is the dovetail dado . it withstands swaying and pulling out of the side supports (B). Use a 1/2 inch or larger dado bit. Make dado cut x in B. Next, set up A for an end cut. Use the same bit and depth setting to make the cut in A . but allow only 1/2 (exactly) the diameter of the bit to be used in making this cut. Last, use a straight bit and the same depth setting to dado cut the bottom straight side of the slot in B, widening this slot to the required thickness for A.
The simple box corner is made the same as the housed dado above.
A milled box corner is started by
making the same two cuts as for a box corner. Dimension y should be about 1/3 the thickness of A, and the lip at the end of A should be as thin as possible (to show very little end grain when assembled) . so gage the width and placement of the slot in B accordingly. The width of the rabbet (x) in A will be the thickness of B less the depth of the slot cut in B . and will be as deep as possible (per the above). Last, turn A on end to dado cut the slot y . to exactly mate with the lip left at the end of B
THE VARIOUS MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS
We show eight additional popular joints in this group. In most cases the mortise (or mortises) is cut exactly as previously described. All the tenons are also shaped as previously described, with the following variations.
NOTE
If you have learned to measure with extreme accuracy, much time can be saved in production work of centered mortises by selecting abit 1/3 or slightly more the thickness of B. The mortise is then cut with just one Edge Guide setting — at exact center . and the same bit will clean out all the wood at each side of the tenon, with one guide setting.
The bare-faced tenon is actually a two-faced one having one side and one shoulder face. These can be the same thickness to save time.
This joint is often employed when setting chair rungs into the legs, the two faces being at bottom and inside where screws can be installed through them into the leg for added strength. Also used with faces at top and inside for joining atable skirt to the leg . or any narrower board to a thicker one.
Haunched tenons are also used in joining table skirts to legs — since the top is hidden. Tongue and grooved members are also joined in this manner (in which case the shallow part of B mortise is already there). Notch the tenon of A (with a saw) to match the mortise in B.
A concealed haunched tenon is like the above, except that the tenon is cut off so as not to show on top. Use this for more tenon strength when the width of A is too little to allow for a simple tenon of sufficient strength. To rout the slant portion of the mortise in B, set B in your vise at an angle – after the square portion of the mortise has been cut.
The long and short shoulders tenon is made by first preparing A and B for a bare-faced tenon... then by rabbetting the uncut face of A and opposite face of B to proper width and depth. This joint is used principally to join a piece (A) to a rabbetted one (in which case the rabbet in B is already there).
MORE MORTISE AND TENON JOINTS
An open tenon — used in rough carpentry work and for window screens, etc. — does not have an actual mortise. The "mortise" is most easily made by setting B on end and plowing a deep slot.
For a through-wedged tenon simply cut the mortise clean through B then flare it out to greater width at top by tilting the router as required. The flare at each side must equal the maximum thickness of one wedge minus the thickness of one of the saw cut slots in the tenon. Cut each wedge with a slight bow on one side and a straight taper on the other. This, also, is a rough carpentry joint - very strong. A neater appearing variathe mortise clear through B . in which case it is assembled by starting the wedges in their slots, then hammering A and B together.
The mitered tenon is useful for joining two parts (A) to one part (B) that is too small to offer strong support without this arrangement. The mortises in B meet (at a 90° angle) inside and the tenon ends are mitered (by sawing) so that gluing will join them together inside of B.
A molded and rabbetted tenon is merely a simple tenon used to join two members that have molded edges (as in picture framing). Whatever the shape of the molding the treatment is the same. First make the mortise and tenon. After-
wards, mark and miter saw each molding so that when A and B are joined their moldings will join in a simple mitered corner.
TONGUE AND GROOVE JOINT
Commonly used for joining boards along their sides and ends to build up large areas (such as a floor), this is actually a tenon-type joint. The tongue is cut just as you'd cut a two-face centered tenon... the full length of the board. The mating groove is a plow cut (also the full board length) centered in the same manner used for a centered mortise.
THE MITERED JOINTS
We illustrate here four common variations of the simple miter used for added strength while preserving a neatness suitable for the finest cabiaet work. The "miter portion" of these joints must be saw cut (very accurately, if joint is to be neat); but the variations are best added on by routing.
For a slip-feather miter first miter the two boards . then lock them together in your holding fixture so that you can rout the feather slot in both simultaneously. Use a bit about 1/3 the board thickness, and go
THE MITER JOINT
as deep as you like (considering appearance and strength). Saw cut the feather to proper thickness, but otherwise somewhat oversize. Its edges can be sanded down after the glue has set - will be barely visible.
The splined miter is also made by first mitering both boards. Afterwards, plow cut the grooves. Use the same technique as for a tongue and groove plow cut, but block your workpiece in the holding fixture at the correct angle to make the plow cut at a 90° angle to the mitered edge face. Saw cut the spline piece to fit neatly, allowing about 1/64 inch slop for gluing space.
To make the rabbetted miter first rabbet cut the end of each board (A and B). Rabbet x in A must be as deep as half the thickness of A and as wide as the thickness of B. Rabbet v in B must be as deen as half the thickness of B and as wide as half the thickness of A. Best layout these cuts in pencil before making them - and allow extra at the board ends to be cut off when mitering. With the rabbets cut, saw cut the miters staving on the outer sides of your pencil lines and taking care not to cut into the "hump" on B. You can now either cut plows for a spline or drill a series of holes to take small dowel pegs . either way you'll have a strong joint.
The locking miter is much like the above. Rabbet x in A must be as deep as half the thickness of A and as wide as half the thickness of B. Rabbet y in B must be as deep as half the thickness of B and as wide as half the thickness of A. After the rabbets and miters are cut, plow cut the two grooves (z1 in B and z2 in A) making each as wide as one-fourth the thickness of A and as deep as half B thickness.
LOCK JOINT
This is one of the firmest of all cabinet joints, with strength in all directions. All of the cuts are simple dado or plow cuts, easily made if you first layout the lines accurately in pencil using careful measurements. With the layout marked, make the five cuts in the sequence and directions shown in the illustration.
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