Cutter and Point Maintenance
Cutters, rotary files and rasps and similar edged tools must be sharp to do good, clean work without overloading your tool and making it harder for you. The cutters, burrs, files and rasps cannot be sharpened . so prolong their usefulness by careful handling. Never run one clogged with chips (which hold heat), nor force it so as to burn it. Don't let the edges become rusty or be banged against other hardened
tools (like files).
Grinding points can be refinished to restore their shapes and usefulness. If glazed, chipped or broken off, you can regrind to a new surface and contour by holding a point against a larger, rougher grindstone. Preferably, chuck the point in your tool and revolve it against the stone; although the stone can be revolved instead, if desirable.
ACCESSORIES
STEEL CARRYING CASE
Convenient storage for your tool and cutters, points, etc. – and the handiest way to carry the equipment from place to place. Cat. No. 1478.
TOOL-POST HOLDER AND BENCH ATTACHMENT
The post holder mounts your tool solidly on any metal lathe cross-slide . for precision internal or external milling and grinding of a centered workpiece. The bench attachment may be clamped or bolted to bench top. It holds tool and converts it into a bench grinder, cutter, etc. to which workpieces and be fed for rapid production and (often better control of accuracy. Cat. No. 25840. MAY BE CLAMPED OR BOLTED SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. - U.S.A. IN CANADA, SIMPSONS - SEARS LUMITED
KNOW THE MANY OPERATIONS YOUR
Lightweight (under 4 lbs.) and easy to hold and guide (with one hand — or with both hands for precise work), your Rotary Electric Tool is, nevertheless, a power house of many uses. Running at the extraordinary speed of 24,000 rpm, it can — with the proper cutters, etc. — grind, carve (wood, plastic, soft metals), polish, sand, saw, file or drill with effortless ease and delicate precision. There is no need for you to use any force other than to hold the tool. Infact, all operations are accomplished faster and better when you merely guide . and let the tool do the work!
In addition to the cutters and points shown on next page, your tool will hold any shafted cutter, point, buff, brush, sanding drum or disk, etc. that has either a 1/4-in. or a 1/8-in. shaft. It also can be fitted with a chuck
to hold other diameter shafts. For maximum safety and longer tool life, however, we recommend that you do not use any cutter or point that is larger or heavier than shown on adjoining page . nor any saw, etc. exceeding 1-1/2-in. diameter.
All-in-One Craftsman TOOL WILL DO
Long-lasting, super-hard steel cutters especially designed for your high-speed tool. Will pare, shave or groove woods, plastics and metals (except hardened steel) with exceptional speed and ease. Each shape has its special use. You will want a complete set to handle the various operations described in this booklet. All 1/4-in. shafts; available separately or in a set.
SOLID CARBIDE BURRS FOR HARDENED STEEL
in the six most useful shapes for tool and die work and other precision milling, grooving, shaping, etc. All 1/8-in. shafts to fit
collet reducer furnished with your tool. Available separately. These are top industrial quality! Will easily cut all commonly used die metals.
ROTARY RASPS AND FILES
GRINDING POINTS
ANOTHER MIDWEST TECHNICAL PUBLICATION
Copyright 1964 - Sears, Roebuck and Co.
orm No. 2947R
Printed In U.S.A
INDUSTRIAL SHOP USES
TYPICAL OPERATIONS
FOR PATTERN AND CABINETMAKERS
FITTING PATTERN PARTS
Every professional who is required to do careful, precise work knows the value of a lightweight but high-speed tool — like the All-in-One — which has enough power to cut true, leaving sur-
FOR TOOL AND DIEMAKERS
Craftsmen in this profession need no instruction regarding rotary electric tool for cleaning precision shaping and/or fitting, polishing and finishing of dies and tool or jig parts. A dependable, powerful tool like your Craftsman All-in-One is an indispensable improvement over slower, more difficult operations by hand. or with a poorer quality tool. With your Craftsman tool and Carhide Burrs or Crinding Points you can do any work required with less effort and greater precision.
CARINETWORK CARVING
faces that are almost glass smooth. With the M-2 Cutters you can clear and shape the smallest cavities, or round a large radius to perfection . so much faster and easier!
FOR BENCH AND LATHE WORK
The Tool Post Holder and Bench Attachment (page 16) adapts your All-in-One tool for many production and precision set-up operations. Mounted as a bench tool it can be used for grinding, cleaning, polishing or sanding of small parts (especially radio and
PRECISION SET-UP FOR MOTOR REBUILDING
other electrical parts). Fitted onto a lathe tool post it becomes a hand-maneuverable accessory that will mill, grind, groove, polish, etc. with as much precision as your lathe is designed to produce.
OTHER APPLICATIONS
Wherever there is a need for a truly portable, powerful tool for shaping routing cleaning polishing, paring, necking, breaking, etching – and similar detail work on metals. plastics wood or ceramics your Craftsman tool will do the work better, faster and easier. You can use it intermittently, or hour-after-hour. Just remember: Let the tool do the work: don't force it to a slow-down or you lose the clean, fast action produced by its extremely high speed.
HOBBY WORK - With Wood
Your Craftsman All-in-One makes woodcarving a fascinating hobby that can be enjoyed by every member of the family. To progress from simple, geometric patterns to artistic relief designs and three-dimensional carvings becomes only a matter of practice, once you have learned a few procedures.
HOW TO USE TOOL
To begin with, always let your tool do the work ... don't push or press, simply guide it. When not forced it will run at top speed of 24,000 rpm. This means that a 16 flute cutter (like the conical shape) takes 384,000 "bites" every minute ... a whole lot more action than you can ever get with your own muscles! Also, forcing — especially when cutting hardwood — can burn up a cutter.
Use the M-2 Cutters ( p. 3 ) for woodcarving, choosing an appropriate shape for each task. In general, the larger-headed cutters are best for faster, rougher cutting, while the smaller-headed ones do better finishing. In fact, for extremely delicate, smooth work in hardwoods you will find it worth while to invest in a set of the very fine cutting Carbide Burrs .
A large enough piece to be held firmly in one hand, at a point safely below where cutter is working, can be carved in a freehand manner by holding your tool in the other hand. However, never point the cutter toward your hand . always point it so that
if it should slip there is no danger to your hand. With a small piece it is better to hold it in a vise or between blocks clamped to a table top. This arrangement also allows you to hold the tool with both hands . for more precise guidance. Very fine detail can be cut accurately if you hold and guide the tool as illustrated.
For perfect grooving, beveling, etc. along a straight or curved line a guide is required. Make a neck jig for your tool, as illustrated, from do-it-yourself aluminum. Use a suitable guide board to run the jig against to guide the tool. The jig shown also will allow you to fix the depth of cut . and to establish a fixed angle between the cutter and the work surface.
TO PLAN A PROJECT Profile Work
For a beginner we suggest surface carving. This is easiest, and will give you practice. Such flat-faced objects as decorated nameplates (for mailbox, front door or desk), wood serving trays, decorative profile carvings and linoleum or wood block etchings with which to print Christmas cards, etc. all make good first projects.
Cut your workpiece to size by sawing and sand surface smooth. Select a design — which can be an original drawing on paper or a copy made to exact size re-
quired. Trace design onto workpiece, then heavy-up the lines so they will be easy to follow. Place work on table top, firmly held between two or more clamped boards. Using tool technique previously explained, carve the design.
HOBBY WORK - With Wood
If design is inlaid (such as a name etched in), simply use the proper cutters to rout it out as desired. If it is a raised design, make a groove all around the outline, retracing it as often as necessary to obtain required depth. Cut away unwanted wood outside the outline, and smooth surface (or leave it "waved" as if hand carved). Next, contour vour design feathering squaring or heveling the edges and giving the surface the necessary major depressions needed. Finally, etch in as much detail as called for using appropriate cutters.
All-Sided Work
When you have mastered profile work, the carving of lamp bases, ornaments or even statuary is not too difficult. For objects (like doorknobs, bed posts, lamp bases) which already have shape (you can make these if you have the tools — or buy them unfinished), simply employ the same principle as above — tracing your design all around. Make certain to hold the work and/or tool firmly, bracing your hands as necessary.
To create or copy a complete contour, start with a wood block sawed to over-all dimensions. Use three profile designs: One a full-front view, one a fullback view, and the third a full side view. Trace the "front" and "back" profiles onto opposite sides of the block and trace the
"side" profile onto the two adjacent sides. Now carve inward at one block edge (between two sides), working to the two traced profiles at each side . then carve in at other three edges in same manner. This will give you a statue crudely cut to size and outline. For finishing, refer to your original profiles . and put in the necessary details (or, if you prefer, go "modern" and don't put in too much detail).
Even the softest woods cut with reasonable smoothness when using your high-speed All-in-One tool . especially if you take care to do final cutting in the direction of the grain and very lightly. No sanding is needed unless a highly-polished finish is desired . in which case hand sand with fine-grit namer Preferably use a paste wood filler on soft or open-grained wood. Either wax or oil will make an excellent easy finish shellac or varnish also are good, but harder to rub in. Coloring can be done with stain (under wax, oil or shellac), by using colored varnish or paint. Wax,
oil or shellac should be buffed (you can use a small rotary buff in your tool) until thoroughly rubbed in.
A small rotary wire brush used in your tool will lift out the soft areas between softwood grain to give an interesting finish. Also, the grinding points — or a bonded rubber polishing wheel — can be used to slightly char the surface for a burned effect.
With Plastics
Many beautiful plastics are available in shapes suitable for easy conversion into a hundred or more useful and/or decorative items through which you can express your own individual artistry and feelings. Plastics for industrial purposes are now widely distributed by dealers, many of whom will gladly sell scraps at retail. In many metropolitan centers there are specialty shops which stock plastics ready made into a large variety of shapes intended for craft work and home projects. Look to the 'yellow pages'' under Plastic Materials for guidance. Also, many hobby shops now carry these craftwork plastics.
SELECTING A PLASTIC
All plastics are either thermosetting or thermoplastic. The first type, once it is set, will not again become pliable regardless of the heat or pressure used. Familiar trade names of this type are: Bakelite, Catalin, Crystle, Marblette, Phenolic
Prystal, Beetle and Plaskon. The second type will soften and bend (or be moldable) when the proper heat and/or pressure is applied. The better known of these are: Celluloid, Lucite, Plexiglas, Nitron, Pyralin, Lumarith, Acrylite, Lustron, Styron, Teflon and Casein Plastic.
Some plastics come in brilliant but opaque colors ranging from milk white to deepest black; some are translucent with delicate colors which glow when light shines through; only two of the above (Lucite and Plexiglas) are completely transparent, like glass — and these also can be had in colors, which make them less transparent. Many of the craft plastics are prepared with gold, silver, etc. flakes molded in — or with other novel effects.
TO WORK PLASTICS
Any Thermoplastic will soften if enough heat is generated. Even if slightly softened at point of contact it becomes gummy. The chips easily clog a cutter — can freeze a drill in its hole, even to the extent of breaking off a fine drill point. Too much softening may also mar the plastic surface, or can result in loss of shape.
The technique for sawing, drilling and carving of a thermosetting plastic is exactly the same as for wood. It is also the same for a thermoplastic, with the following exception:
Always use coarser fluted cutters (like the M-2 ) . never use
fine cutters or grinding points for shaping. If plastic shows any tendency to gurn up, stop and let it cool . ir fact, do work in a cool room, rather than a toohot one, if this is practical. When drilling, back out frequently to clear the chips. If cutters become clogged, clean them. Be very careful not to use force take light cuts.
Grease pencils can be used to trace designs on plastic ... or the design can be rubber-cemented to back if you can see through to it.
For finishing surfaces, best use an open-coat, silicon-carbide sandpaper. Start with No.80 grit and work up to a No: 220 grit for most plastics . but up to a No. 400 grit if a high lustre is desired on the translucent or transparent plastics. Preferably do sanding under water to keep plastic cool and paper unclogged.
If surface still does not sparkle, polish it with a cloth buff (or felt rag) and pumice powder, jeweler's rouge or a good silverpolish. Be careful of generating heat. Final waxing will still further improve many of the plastics.
The cellulose plastics can be highly glossed (without sanding) by dipping them quickly in acetone, then letting them dry untouched. This "melts" and runs the surface abrasions together to make a glass-like finish.
Any thermoplastic can be bent if heated. For most, a few minutes immersion in hot water (1800 to 2120) will produce the required softness; others must be held briefly over a flame (like the stove burner). Use felt cloths with clamps or shaped wood blocks to hold the desired shape until plastic re-cools. All plastics can be cemented with one or another of the all-purpose cements available (in tubes) both in clear and colored forms.
INTERNAL CARVING
Done from the back - into the interior of a translucent or transparent plastic piece - this profect which can be made very colorful by dveing. The "trick" is to cut inward to exact depth ing the tool up-and-down to obtain the depth and moving the work around on a table top to obtain the side-to-side contours. Any of the M-2 cutters can be used. A sharpened twist drill also is very useful. To sharpen it, chuck it in your tool and hold it - while revolving - lightly against a grindstone. Don't burn it. Leave the tin with two tiny chisel points. and the side cutting edges of the flutes sharp.
HOBBY WORK - With Plastics Use clear dyes. Finish and dye each differently colored area, in turn. Use the acetone polishing method before dveing if high gloss is desired. Mixing acetone water and dye in various proportions and at different times during the dveing process will produce interesting color gradations. Dry Plaster of Paris may be added to the acetone dye in a cavity - will set in a few days - to produce a ''pearly' effect.
With Non-Ferrous Metals
Do-it-yourself aluminum is available at most hardware stores in many shapes; and there are dealers who specialize in furnishing copper, bronze, brass and other metals to sculptors and craftsmen. Working with such metals is not difficult with your All-in-One tool . and can produce beautiful and unique results, especially in the jewelry line.
The M-2 cutters will easily carve and shape all the non-ferrous (other than iron and steel) metals. The techniques are the same as for wood and plastics, but work is slower. Like plastics, these
soft metals tend to clog and bind — care must be taken to clear the chips away frequently. Grinding points also may be used if you are careful not to let them clog or glaze.
SCULPTORS: NOTE
Cast-iron is readily cut with the Carbide Burrs , which are excellent for cleaning the flash from castings and adding fine details.
Small items like jewelry can either be sawed and/or bent to shape first ... or after carving the design. Large solid objects should be brought to rough shape first; then carved. The Rotary Files are excellent for this roughing-out to shape. Preferably trace your design onto the metal before carving ... or make a template then color the metal through it using a suitable dye.
As the work is more exacting and lengthy than with wood or plastic, anchor your workpiece securely (in a vise or with clamps) and use two hands on your tool.
If making shaped openings through the metal, first etch the design on the surface with a pointed cutter.
When working with a precious metal (gold, silver), don't grind. Use only the file edge cutters, working in an enclosure from which the filings can be collected later for salvage.
A Damascened finish is produced by using the flat end of a cylindrical grinding point — lightly. Brushed effects can be obtained using small wire wheel or cup brushes in your tool, either without or with an abrasive such as valve-grinding compound. For polishing, first use a rubberbonded abrasive wheel (in tool) to remove rough scratches. Finish by using a cotton or felt buffing wheel (in tool) with a polishing compound. With felt, be careful not to burn easily heated metals.
HOBBY WORK - With Ceramic Tiles
The edge of a cylindrical grinding point will quickly score the glaze of a tile for breaking it off along a straight or gently curved line. Also, if tile is held in a vise, any of the grinding points will contour and smooth the edges, after breaking to shape. Just be careful not to chip the glaze by bumping or rough treatment. Holes may be drilled through tiles and hard pottery using the pointed grinders (preferably under water, if practical). With these techniques table-top designs and the like can be produced.
Etching Glass...
Etched glass becomes permanently frosted. The frosting can be left natural (milk white) or can be delicately colored by daubing it with colored lacquer, then wiping off the excess. Some strikingly attractive results can be achieved ... and, even without coloring, etched monograms and designs are distinctive decorations for glassware and glass ornaments of all kinds.
Use a pointed grinder in your tool . and simply "write" (very lightly) on the glass surface to do the etching. You will find it easy to follow any design rubbercemented to the reverse side. Other grinding points can be similarly used for scalloped effects, edge beveling or rounding.
GENERAL MAINTENANCE
SHARPENING
Your Craftsman tool is a superb sharpener, using an appropriate shape grinding point. With it you can do a professional job of sharpening lawnmower or iceskate blades, scissors, knives or other edged tools. Because of the speed, only a very light touch is required for the final few strokes to produce a razor edge.
CLEANING, BUFFING, POLISHING
Fitted with a grinding point, a wire brush, a cloth or felt buffing wheel your All-in-One tool becomes a handy, portable rust remover, cleaner and polisher. It is especially useful for such odd jobs as removing rust spots from
the car or the golf clubs ... for cleaning dentures, switch plates, doorknobs and hardware, pots or any hard-to-get-at objects... for polishing silverware, jewelry, etc. You can't beat it for speed and adaptability!
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