Sears | Craftsman 9-2938 Wood, Plastic and Metalworking Know-how with Craftsman Radial Arm Sa Instruction Guides
WOOD, PLASTIC AND METALWORKING KNOW-HOW
WITH
CRAFTSMAN RADIAL-ARM SAWS
OVER 200 OPERATIONS - FULLY ILLUSTRATED
ALTHOUGH THE CRAFTSMAN 10-IN. RADIAL-ARM SAW IS USED THROUGHOUT TO ILLUSTRATE THIS BOOK, ALL SET-UPS AND OPERATIONS DESCRIBED HEREIN CAN BE PERFORMED AS DESCRIBED WITH ALL CRAFTSMAN RADIAL-ARM SAWS
A MIDWEST TECHNICAL PUBLICATION
for
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. - U. S. A. IN CANADA - SIMPSON-SEARS LIMITED
SEARS RADIAL-ARM SAW KNOW-HOW
REVISED 1966
COPYRIGHT 1966 - SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
All rights in this book are reserved. It may not be used for dramatic, motion-, or talking picture purposes without written consent of the copyright holder. Nor may this book or any part thereof be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without permission in writing from the copyright holder, excepting cases in which brief quotations may be embodied in critical articles and reviews.
For information, address Legal Department 766, Sears, Roebuck and Co., Homan and Arthington Aves., Chicago, Illinois 60607.
A CRAFTSMAN HANDBOOK
CONTENTS
| INTRODUCTION | AGE |
|---|---|
| CRAFTSMAN RADIAL-ARM SAWS AND ACCESSORIES | Ă١ |
|
CHAPTER 1
YOUR RADIAL-ARM SAW FEATURES |
1 |
|
CHAPTER 2
GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR SAW |
7 |
|
CHAPTER 3
STANDARD SAWING OPERATIONS |
15 |
|
CHAPTER 4
THE DADO HEAD AND ITS USES |
27 |
| CHAPTER 5 SPECIAL SAWING OPERATIONS | 38 |
|
CHAPTER 6
SHAPING, JOINTING AND PLANING |
49 |
|
CHAPTER 7
CARVING, ROUTING, AND DRILLING |
58 |
| CHAPTER 8 SANDING AND POLISHING | 65 |
| 69 | |
|
CHAPTER 10
USEFUL BUYING DATA AND WORKING TECHNIQUES |
71 |
| 92 | |
|
CHAPTER 12
WORK HELPERS FOR YOU TO MAKE |
98 |
OUR BEST FOR HOMESHOP USE CRAFTSMAN 10-IN. RADIAL-ARM SAW
- DEVELOPS 2 HP
- AUTOMATIC FRICTION LOCK – holds carriage securely when at end of track – stops creeping.
- ELECTRO-MAGNETIC BRAKE — stops blade in 10 sec.—no drag.
| SPECIFICATIONS |
|---|
| Blade – 10" x 5/8" hole |
| 🛞 Table – 20-5/8" x 40", laminated hardboard 🔅 |
| 🛞 Scales – Miter, bevel, in- and out-rip 🛞 |
| 🔅 Arm Rotation – 360° |
| Miter Stops – 0° and 45° R and L |
| 🛞 Yoke Swivel – 180° R and L |
| Xoke Stops – 0°, 45°, and 90° R and L |
| 🔅 Power Unit Tilt – 180° |
| 🛞 Bevel Stops – 0°, 45°, and 90° R and L |
| Depth of Cut – 2-1/2" vert. or 2-1/8" at 45° |
| 🛞 Width of Rip – 25-3/8" max. |
| 🛞 Width, Crosscut – 15-1/2" max. |
An exceptionally sturdy and durable tool for professional or homeshop use - extremely accurate. Color-coded controls for quick, easy set-ups. Extra large worktable. Key-lock ON-OFF switch guards against unauthorized use . thermal overload protector . no belts or gears. Sure, easy operation - carriage glides on permanently-lubricated ball bearings. Accessory shaft end 1/2 x 20 threaded for standard accessories. Fully equipped with adjustable anti-kickback device. sawdust discharge elbow, and 10" Kromedge combination blade - 3450 rpm, 110 or 230 V, capacitor motor with permanently-lubricated ball bearings.
CRAFTSMAN
9-IN. AND 12-IN. RADIAL-ARM SAWS
9-IN. SAW IS SHOWN HERE. 12-IN. SAW IS SIMILAR IN APPEARANCE, WITH ADDED FEATURES AS TOLD BELOW.
9-IN. HOMESHOP SAW
• DEVELOPS 1-3/4 HP
• CARRIAGE RIDES ON STEEL TRACKS
Lightweight and portable, yet accurate and rugged — a precisionbuilt tool. Carriage glide's smoothly, easily over permanently-lubricated ball bearings. Key-lock ON-OFF switch prevents unauthorized use. Has thermal-overload protector ... no belts or gears . . anti-kickback device . sawdust discharge elbow . 9" Kromedge combination blade. Accessory shaft end is 1/2 x 20 threaded. Ball-bearing motor for 110 V, 60 cycle, AC. Specs. same as for 10-in. saw, except those below.
| SPECIFICATIONS | |
|---|---|
| Blade – 9" x 5/8" hole | |
| Table - 21-1/2" x 32" chipboard | |
| Scales – Miter, Bevel | |
| Yoke Stops – 0°, 90°, R and L | |
| Depth of Cut - 2-1/2" vert. or 2" at 45° | |
| ÷. | Width, Crosscut - 15-1/2" max. |
COMMERCIAL-USE 12-IN. SAW
• DEVELOPS 3 HP - cuts wood 4-in. thick
A massive, brawny, powerful saw, precision-built for top cutting accuracy. Top professional quality throughout. Has all the features of the 10-in. saw plus: no blade protrusion when out-ripping . smooth operation as carriage glides along steel tracks on permanentlylubricated ball bearings . easily removed and stored motor, yoke and carriage ... legs do not require a stand, or when mounted horizontally, act as carrying handles. All specifications same as for 10-in. saw except as listed here.
| SPECIFICATIONS |
|---|
| Table - 28-1/4" x 44" x 1" chipboard |
| Yoke Stops - 0° and 90°, R and L |
| Depth of Cut - 4" vert. or 3-1/8" at 45° |
| Width of Rip - 26-1/2" max. |
| Width of Crosscut - 16" max. |
A CABINET FOR YOUR SAW HEAVY-DUTY STEEL CONSTRUCTION FOR A SOLID MOUNTING
Solid support for your radial-arm saw or other heavy tools Holds 5 drawers or 4 shelves, or any combination. Perforated sides hold tool and accessory hooks. With casters, it's a shopcart! Basic stand includes a top tray, bottom, back, adjustable feet, and 26 hooks.
BASIC STAND - For 10" and 12" saws only. Supplied as described above, but may be used with items below. Size. cribed above, but may be used with items below. Size, 23-7/8x18x32-3/4" high. Steel Drawers - Size, 16-3/4x15-1/8x4-1/4" high. Complete
with mounting rails and slides Steel Shelf – Size, 16-3/8x18-7/8x1-3/8".
FOR 10 OR 12-IN. SAW
Steel Door - Full-length hinge; tumbler lock; 2 keys. Retractable Caster Set – Step on lever once to lower, again to raise casters. Set of 4.
UTILITY STAND - Steel, for 9" saw only. Has perforated sides 26 assorted hooks, adjustable feet (not for caster-mounting). Holds 5 drawers or 4 shelves or combinations (listed under BASIC STAND). Size, 24 x 18 x 32-3/4" high; 20" between
RADIAL-ARM SAW ACCESSORIES
EL OATING RING GUARD
Full view operation. Covers work as it is fed into saw. Fits 10-in. saw only.
ROTARY SURFACE PLANER
Three blades give extrasmooth finish. Mounts on saw arbor.
SHAPER FENCE ATTACHMENT
Complete with instructions for quick, easy making of professional-quality dovetail joints.
MOLDING HEAD CUARD
Specially designed to replace regular saw guard when shaping. Available in two sizes: 7 and 8 in.
1/2-IN. KEY CHUCK
Precision-geared with key. For mounting at accessory shaft end for routing, drilling, etc. Holds standard shank boring tools, 5/64" to 1/2".
INTRODUCTION
DADO HEAD Sets
No. 1 is best, professional-quality, satin-cut, 7" set – will even cut veneers and plywoods with practically no splintering. Dadoes to 1-1/4" deep. No. 2 is 8" heavyduty set for extra tough jobs. Dadoes to 1-3/4" deep. Both are Kromedge quality.
2 1/8" outside cutters, 4 1/8" chippers and 1 1/16" chipper. Assembles to 13/16" width.
2 1/8" outside cutters, and 6 1/8" chippers. Assembles to 1" width.
3-CUTTER HEAD
1-Cutter Set, with 5-5/8" cutting dia., is excellent for 9 and 10-in. radial-arm saws. Includes 18 different shape bits to mold various trim, edging and joint designs, with unlimited variations if bits are used in combinations.
3-Cutter Head, available in 4-3/4-in. and 7in. cutting dia. — either in sets with an assortment of most popular bits, or heads only and 19 separate cutter patterns.
A-4
ADJUSTABLE DADO
Precision-cut, adjustable hub. Dial widths from 1/4" to 13/16" without removing from saw. Calibrated in 1/16th in. Max. depth of cut, 2". Use to plough, dado, lap, groove, joint, and rabbet. Tool steel, 7" blade has 8 precision-ground carbide-tipped teeth. Bevel-ground on front face for free cutting on plywood and crosscutting on all solid woods. Use on all radial-arm saws.
SANDING NEEDS
- SANDING PLATE 10" diam., replaceable medium and coarse grit sides; flat sanding surface. 5/8x12 Acme thread hub. Fits all radial-arm saw arbors.
- SANDING DRUM 3" face, 2-1/4" diam. For 1/2x20 threaded accessory shaft. Replaceable medium grit sleeve cushioned by rubber drum.
- drum. SANDER-POLISHER KIT – Sponge rubber pad with rubber swivel joint; three 5" diam. sanding discs; lambswool polishing bonnet; tube of activator cement. Use on accessory shaft end for surface sanding or polishing.
GRINDING WHEELS
Fully-vitrified (crystallized) in an electrically-controlled kiln over 200 hrs. Perfectly-balanced. First quality aluminumoxide abrasive grains of uniform size. Meets Industrial Standards. 3/4" hole. Use with bushing on saw blade arbor.
Fine (100) grit for knives, keen-edged tools, finish grinding, polishing. Mediumfine (60) grit for woodcutting tools, preparation for finish. Medium-coarse (36) grit for fast removal of stock, machineshop use.
GRINDING, BUFFING ACCESSORIES
- WHEEL BRUSH Tampico-fiber, 6" diam.x 5/8" face. Use with 1/2" arbor chucked at accessory end.
- WIRE SCRATCH WHEEL For removal of rust and paint. 8" diam. Width: coarse, 11/16"; fine, 5/8"; heavy-duty, 1-3/8". Fits sawblade arbor.
- POLISHING BONNETS Lambswool, 8" diam. Use over disk chucked at accessory shaft end.
- BUFFING WHEELS Top industrial quality 8" diam. Fits at accessory shaft end with 1/2" chucked arbor. Use with buffing compound to clean rusty tools, pots and pans, etc.
- WIRE CUP BRUSH Use to remove rust, paint, etc. 2-3/4" diam., 1/4" shank.
- WIRE WHEEL BRUSH Removes paint, burrs, etc. 3" diam., 1/4" shank. Fine or coarse.
- ABRASIVE "FLAP" WHEEL 6" diam., 1" thick, 3/4" hole. Use with bushing on sawblade arbor. Polishes or grinds metal, removes paint, etc. Cloth-backed, 80-grit aluminum-oxide abrasive strips connected to steel flanges.
CRAFTSMAN TWIST DRILLS
Craftsman High-Speed Twist Drills are professional quality, precision-ground. For use at accessory-shaft end in drilling all metals, hardboard, etc. A black oxide coating acts as a coolant for longer drill life. Carbon steel twist drills may be used for wood or plastic boring. Both types of twist drills are available in all popular sizes.
Specially designed for power wood boring. Precision-ground, hardened alloy steel with brad points for no-jump starts. Sizes from 1/8" to 1-1/4".
The Craftsman Sawdust Collector is a specialpurpose shop vacuum which collects sawdust before it falls to the floor. Designed for use with radial-arm saws, it draws sawdust through the discharge elbow and from behind the blade while the saw is operating. It keeps you, your work, and your shop cleaner by removing much of the sawdust as it is formed. Does not interfere with saw operation.
(*Available in early 1967)
CHAPTER 1
YOUR RADIAL-ARM SAW FEATURES
Your Craftsman Radial-Arm Saw is a professional quality tool. It features readily accessible controls that are color-coded for quick identification . and many design refinements which provide the utmost ease and safety of operation.
NOTE
Craftsman 10-Inch Radial-Arm Saw — especially recommended for homeshop use — is pictured throughout this book. However, all operations explained herein can also be performed, in much the same manner as described, with any other radial-arm saw.
THE POWER-UNIT MOTOR delivers full rated hp. Except for the 9-In. Saw, it is fitted with an automatic electro-magnetic brake that stops the blade within seconds, but does not drag during starts. There is an automatic overload protector with manual reset button for motor protection. An on-off keylock switch, conveniently located, provides extra safety for you.
THE SAW SHAFT-END is 5/8-in. dia. and is fitted with two arbor collars and a hex nut. Circular blades and other circular accessories (grindstones, dado sets, etc.) — up to the max. rated sizes for the saw — can be operated at this end.
LEFT-SIDE VIEW - 10-IN. RADIAL-ARM SAW
RIGHT-SIDE VIEW - 10-IN. RADIAL-ARM SAW
THE ACCESSORY SHAFT END has a 1/2-20 thread with protective cap. On it you can mount a key chuck (up to 1/2-in. capacity) to hold drill or router bits, etc. — or any 1/2-20 threaded wheel, brush, disc, drum, etc. that it is practicable to use.
THE SAW GUARD reduces the amount of blade that is exposed and is an important safety feature. It must never be removed when using a saw blade; but may be removed for use of a grindstone, sanding disc or similar "non-sharp" accessory. The
FENCE AT NORMAL POSITION
guard is fitted with a Sawdust Dis charge Elbow (to blow sawdust away from the operator), and with Anti-Kickback Pawls (to hold work down on table when ripping).
THE WORKTABLE consists of four pieces: a Front Table bolted to two steel channels — and a Fence, Spacer Board and Rear Board which can be arranged to suit the operation. The three interchangeable pieces rest on the channels and are secured by two Table Clamps which wedge them in behind the stationary front table.
FENCE AT REARMOUNT POSITION
The Arm (C) is positioned by manual rotation. It can be rotated 360° but indexes (locks) at 0o (centered position), 45° left and 45° right unless the Latch Knob Release (B) is held pulled out while rotating the arm. In any position - even one of the index positions - the arm must be locked to positively secure it. It is locked by clockwise tightening the Arm Latch Knob (A), which must then be loosened 1/4 turn to reposition the arm. A Scale atop the column with a Pointer attached to the arm indicates arm setting at any position from 0° to 90° right or 90° left. The controls and pointer are coded red.
CARRIAGE TRAVEL & POSITIONING
ARM ELEVATION
A convenient Elevating Crank raises or lowers the Arm, Carriage and Power Unit — exactly 1/16 in. for each half revolution of the crank. Maximum travel is 8-1/8 in. No lock is needed; the parts remain at any height to which adjusted. Crank and top-front of Column are coded blue .
ARM SWING
The Carriage (A) is positioned by manually gliding it along the arm - to any desired position indicated by a Pointer (B) with reference to a Scale (C). There are two scales on right side, one to show "Out-Rip", the other to show "In-Rin" blade position with respect to the fence at its normal position. A single scale on left side shows "Out-Rip" blade position with respect to the fence at its rearmost position. If a fixed position is desired the carriage must be locked to eliminate play - by clockwise tightening of the Carriage Lock Knob (D). Leave this knob loose, however, if your operation requires traveling the carriage along the arm . but never leave it loose with motor running unless you are holding the carriage handle. Knob and pointers are coded green.
YOKE SWIVEL (MITERING)
The Power Unit Voke (A) can be manually swiveled on the carriage more than 180° clockwise or counterclockwise from normal (blade aligned with arm) position. There are six indexed positions: 0°, 45° and 90° right, 45° and 90° left, and 180°. The voke stops at each position unless the Swivel Latch Knob (B) is held lifted up. In any position - even the index positions - the voke must be locked to eliminate play - by pushing the Yoke Clamp Handle (C) tightly toward the column. Pulling the handle toward you loosens the voke. Yoke, latch and handle are coded orange.
POWER UNIT PIVOT (BEVELING)
The Power Unit can be manually pivoted 180° in either direction in the voke. Rotation is. however. limited by the guard or by any accessory mounted at either motor-shaft end. Pivoting is indexed at five positions: 1) Accessory Shaft at 90° (vertical and at bottom); 2) Accessory Shaft at 45° (to the right from 90°): 3) Both the Accessory Shaft and the Saw Shaft at 00 (horizontal – which places the saw blade vertical); 4) Saw Shaft at 45° (down from 0°); 5) Saw Shaft at 90° (at bottom, with blade horizontal). Positions 1 and 2 can be reached only with the saw blade and guard removed; positions 4 and 5 can be reached only when nothing is mounted at the accessory shaft end. To avoid or to release from an index position hold the Bevel Index Latch (B) up while nivoting. In any position - even an index position - the unit must be locked to eliminate play. To lock. tighten (clockwise) the Bevel Lock Knob (A), which must be loosened for repositioning. A Scale (behind knob) with a Pointer indicates in degrees the blade bevel-angle setting. Latch. knob and pointer are coded vellow.
IMPORTANT:
Whichever radial-arm saw you have, refer to the instruction sheet furnished with it. Your tool must be maintained in perfect adjustment to produce the topguality work for which it has been designed.
THE 11 BASIC SET-UPS
All tool operations are performed using one or another of the eleven basic set-ups.
For every operation (except special ones explained later) the arm latch knob, the yoke clamp handle and the bevel lock knob must all be tightened after making the set-up. Never alter a set-up until power is off and the saw blade stopped.
VERTICAL CROSSCUT Arm 0°, Yoke 0°, PU 0°, Carr. Free
BEVEL CROSSCUT Arm 0°, Yoke 0°, PU 1-45°, Carr. Free
MITER CROSSCUT Arm 1-90°, Yoke 0°, PU 0°, Carr. Free
COMPOUND MITER CROSSCUT Arm 1-90°, Yoke 0°, PU 1-45°, Carr. Free
HORIZONTAL CROSSCUT Arm 0°, Yoke 0°, PU 90°, Carr. Free
VERTICAL IN-RIP Arm 0°, Yoke 90° In, PU 0°, Carr. Locked
BEVEL IN-RIP Arm 0°, Yoke 90° In, PU 1-45°, Carr. Locked
HORIZONTAL IN-RIP Arm 0°, Yoke 90° In, PU 90°, Carr. Locked
VERTICAL OUT-RIP Arm 0°, Yoke 90° Out, PU 0°, Carr. Locked
BEVEL OUT-RIP Arm 0°, Yoke 90° Out, PU 1-45°, Carr. Locked
VERTICAL ROUTING Arm 0°, PU 90° R, Yoke & Carr. As Desired
CHAPTER 2
GETTING THE MOST FROM YOUR RADIAL-ARM SAW
SELECTING A LOCATION
Sufficient light and space for unrestricted movements are two factors essential to maximum safety and professional-quality work. Be certain to have ample light — daylight or artificial. Preferably, arrange to have it fall directly on your workpieces . certainly, not in your eyes. Light that shines onto the worktable from behind your left or right shoulder
is the most desirable. Also, allow all the room you can at each side of the tool and behind you. If a proper permanent location is impossible then best mount your saw so that its position can be shifted to meet the space needs of each different workpiece.
LEVELING YOUR SAW
Most basement, garage or barnfloors are sloped for drainage. If you are
TYPICAL RADIAL-ARM SAW SET-UP IN A WORKSHOP
preparing a permanent bench set-up, cut off or shim up the bench legs to make it level. For a movable set-up make whatever leveling arrangements you can. To assure accurate work and ease of tool operation the saw must set level. Check with a spirit level on the worktable, side-to-side and fore-to-aft.
WIRE TOOL CORRECTLY
Make certain that your power supply is the same rated voltage and current (AC or DC) specified on your tool motor nameplate . and, if AC, that the phase and cylces are the same. Moreover, if there is any doubt, check (or have the power company check) to make certain that the voltage delivered to your saw does not drop more than 10% below the rated amount. An excessive voltage drop can occur for instance, in an old building not originally wired for all the electricity now being used by the occupants . or in a farm barn to which the wiring is undersized or poorly insulated. Any drop in voltage has the same effect on your tool motor as overloading it . can. if consistently extreme. damage the motor and will, in any event, make it run with less efficiency.
For the above reason also make certain that any extension cord you use for connecting motor to power supply is of sufficient wire size.
RECOMMENDED WIRE SIZES
| Length | Wire Size | Wire Size |
|---|---|---|
| of Run | For 115V | For 230V |
| Up to 100 ft. | No. 10 | No. 12 |
| 100 to 150 ft. | No. 8 | No. 10 |
| 150 to 200 ft. | No. 6 | No. 8 |
| 200 to 400 ft. | No. 4 | No. 6 |
Even a manual reset, thermal overload protector does not protect a motor from line voltage surges due to short circuits or other causes. For maximum protection fuse the circuit to your tool with a time-lag fuse
rated the same as the running amps specified on motor nameplate. Also, for your own maximum safety, use the adapter plug furnished with your saw, and ground it as illustrated.
PREPARING THE WORKTABLE
To saw completely through a workpiece the blade must bite into the worktable surface (about 1/16 inch). In time, these bites will deface the table surface. You can prevent defacement, however, by covering the table top with a 1/4-in. covering of plywood or hardboard. Cut a separate
covering for each table board (except the fence) and tack each covering in place at its four corners. Do not cover the square opening in rear table. After grooving the top (following), tack all around each edge on (approx.) 6-in. centers. When covering becomes too much defaced it can be turned over or replaced.
Every through cut will groove the tabletop, but there are certain cuts which you will perform so frequently that it is good practice to pre-groove the top for them. Properly made grooves also will help you position your workpieces for crosscutting. To this end, lock the table boards in normal position and do as follows.
1 - Position tool for a vertical crosscut. With carriage all the way at rear start the motor and lower the arm until the blade bites into tabletop 1/16 in. Pull carriage straight out to end of arm. The blade will cut a vertical crosscut groove, through the fence and out to front table edge.
2 - Position tool for a 450 bevel crosscut, and proceed as above to cut a 450 bevel-crosscut groove.
3 - Position tool for a 45° right miter crosscut, and similarly cut the groove for this crosscut. Also cut the groove for a 45° left miter crosscut.
STARTING THE VERTICAL-CROSSCUT GROOVE
4 - Position tool for a vertical in-rip. Begin with blade just touching the fence and lowered to take a 1/16-in. bite, then pull the carriage slowly outward, thus allowing blade to cut a trough in table top. When trough extends about half across the table, turn off the motor, elevate the arm, shift to the vertical out-rip position, relower the blade — and continue until trough extends all across table. The rip trough thus cut will provide blade clearance for ripping at any in- or out-rip carriage setting.
THE FINISHED RIP TROUGH
(Blade Back at Starting Position)
OPERATING SAFELY AND EFFICIENTLY
Good workmanship practices not only assure a maximum of operator's safety, they also produce a much higher degree of work quality. Here are some general rules to remember:
1 - Dress properly. No long dangling tie, no long flopping sleeves nor other loose clothing to be caught by the tool or the work. Also, wear a face shield, goggles or glasses to protect your eyes from flying chips or dust.
2 - Have firm footing . Make certain you will not slip at a critical moment. A sawdust footing can be treacherous. Don't allow surrounding objects to crowd you.
3 - Never place hands in jeopardy. Keep your hands well away from the whirling blade or any other cutting tool, keeping in mind the direction a hand may have to move while feeding the work . or the direction it could suddenly move should the workpiece slip. If there's even the slightest doubt, substitute a push stick or rig a safe set-up to hold and guide the work.
4 - Stop the tool between operations. Wait for the blade (or other cutting tool) to fully stop before changing the set-up of tool. Never use worktable as a bench for some intermediate
operation while the tool is running.
5 - Use the guard and anti-kickback pawls. Every real professional knows that these improve, rather than hamper, the sawing operations. Don't disregard their importance to good, cleancut, safe workmanship.
6 - Lock all control clamps firmly. Failure to properly lock one of the control clamps will result in an untrue, wobbly tool setting — will produce poor quality, uncertain, and possibly unsafe operations.
7 - Don't misuse any cutting tool. A dull, gummy or rusted, bent or cracked cutting tool can't do what is expected of it. It is not only unsafe to use . it overloads the tool motor, strains the tool parts, and "butchers" the work. There's no saving and no sense in not keeping your cutting tools sharp, clean and in good condition. This also applies to misusing them — for purposes for which they are not intended.
8 - Keep your mind on your work. Work alone or with someone dependable; don't permit distractions. Remember, the tool doesn't automatically stop just because your attention wanders elsewhere! And you can't do good work either, if you don't think while you work.
9 - Remove the key when closing down. Your tool lock is to protect you against the hazard of accidental tool operation and mishap . by anyone you don't want to operate it.
10 - Plan each operation intelligently. A good workman is careful and thorough. He thinks along these lines:
a) Complete each set-up before starting the tool . it saves time. That is, do all your measuring, marking and planning for an operation before beginning it. You can then make the cut (or whatever you will do) without stopping midway to readjust or replan.
b) Never attempt to cut a workpiece that cannot be firmly supported ... down on the table and/or up against the fence or a guide. A warped board must be properly laid on table (see illustration) to prevent wobble. A workpiece cannot be held firmly on edge (see illustration) by hand ... it must be braced against or between clamped-down guides or a high-enough fence. There is always some correct way to assure firmness.
c) Examine old lumber. There's no profit in dulling a cutting tool on an embedded nail . or of jamming it in sap-, pitch-, or water-soaked lumber.
d) Listen while you work. The hum of your tool motor and possibly. the whir of the cutting tool will keep you informed about the progress your tool is making. If the pitch of these sounds is too "airv" the tool is cutting overfreely . you can feed the work a little faster: but if the cutter pitch rises to a "screetch" or the motor pitch is reduced to a "moan" or a "groan", the tool is being overworked and you'd best slow the feeding. Should an overload become too much the overload protector or a fuse will "pop". If this happens, wait for the tool motor to cool before resetting (or replacing) to start again.
e) Do your sawing in the waste. A saw blade has thickness. If you saw on a line or inside it the kerf
POSITIONING FOR A CUT-OFF
LOWERING BLADE FOR CUT THROUGH
will reduce your workpiece to less ______ than measured size. This also applies when routing, shaping, etc.
f) Lower blade properly for a cut through. Set it to ride 1/32-in. down in the groove trough if a pre-cut groove is to be used . or to bite into the table top no more than 1/16in. if a new groove will be made.
FREE-CUT RIP NAIL CUTTING
MASONITE
PIYTOOTH
CHISEL TOOTH
MASONITE
FREE_CUT
COMBINATION (Carbide Tips) COMBINATION
STEEL SLICER
FREE SMOOTH-CUT COMBINATION
- CABINET
THIN-PIM SATIN-CUT COMBINATION
Your tool comes fitted with a Craftsman Kromedge Combination blade. This is an excellent general-purpose rip or crosscut blade for all woods or do-it-vourself (soft) aluminum but is likely to chip plywood or hardboard and similar brittle materials. There are other blades (see bage A4) designed for cutting various other materials and for doing special work.
All toothed blades belong in one of three classes, depending upon how the blade is designed to provide its own clearance so as not to bind in its kerf (cutting slot).
1. Free-Cut Class. The teeth of this type are wider than the rest of the blade. There may be 8, 10 or as many as 40 teeth. Carbide-tipped blades belong in this class . the tips are brazed onto the outer edges of the wide teeth.
2. Hollow-Ground Class. This type of blade is ground thicker at the cutting edge with thickness decreasing toward the blade hub. The thinner.
smoother-cutting blades generally belong in this class.
3. Set-Tooth Class. Blades of this type are of uniform thickness throughout . but the teeth are set (bent) outward at the edge according to a predetermined pattern so that the cutting edge is effectually wider. The general-purpose and faster, roughercutting blades are mostly this type.
CHANGING BLADES
IMPORTANT
Any steel blade can rust — and tends to gum up with wood resin and bind. To overcome these disadvantages most Craftsman blades are chrome impregnated, to last the life of the blade — and make the blade last (and stay sharp) much longer. Look for the Kromedge label.
TWO SAFETY-IMPROVING ACCESSORIES
The Ring Blade-Guard Attachment shown increases the protective value of the guard by completing the encirclement of the blade at each side. The two rings float on the workpiece surface, bobbing up and down as necessary so as not to interfere with the work.
One or two Hold-Down Attachments can be secured to the fence (or an auxiliary fence) as shown to securely press the workpiece down on the worktable and/or up against the fence. When using small workpieces these eliminate the need for placing hands uncomfortably close to the cutting tool.
With tool switch locked OFF and tool in the vertical crosscut position, remove the guard. Use the two wrenches furnished, as illustrated, to remove the shaft nut. Remove outer collar and blade.
Install replacement blade with its bottom teeth pointing toward tool column. Have the flats of the two shaft collars pressed against the blade sides. If blade bore requires use of a bushing, be sure it doesn't interfere with squeezing of the blade (itself) between these two collars. Reinstall the shaft nut tightly. Reinstall the guard.
NOTE
If blades of different thicknesses are used the two rip scale pointers must be readjusted to assure accurate carriage positioning for rip cuts. Refer to instruction sheet packaged with your tool.
CHAPTER 3
STANDARD SAWING OPERATIONS
THE KINDS OF STANDARD SAW CUTS
Commercial lumber has the grain running the long way of the board. Hence, the term "crosscutting" originally meant cutting across the grain to shorten the length of a board. Similarly, "ripping" originally meant sawing with the grain to reduce the width of a board.
With a combination blade and your radial-arm saw these old meanings do not apply. For you, "crosscutting" is any saw-cut made by traveling the carriage along the arm while the workpiece is held stationary. "Ripping" is any saw cut made by feeding the workpiece to the blade with all parts of the tool stationary. If a cut is made down through the narrow edge of a board to split the board into two thinner ones, it still is a rip cut but may also be referred to as "resawing".
NOTE
Any rip cut may be straight or beveled, depending upon the power unit positioning. Any crosscut similarly may be straight or beveled . and, in addition, may be at a right angle or at a miter angle to the rear edge of the workpiece, depending upon the position of the arm.
In addition, there are two new kinds of cuts possible only with a radialarm saw (without a special jig). Both of these are made with the blade hori-
zontal (or nearly so). If the carriage is moved as in crosscutting, we call this "end cutting"; if the workpiece is moved as in ripping, we call it "edge cutting". Both straight and beveled end cutting or edge cutting can be done.
CROSSCUTTING
Why You Should Use a Pull-Through Stroke
Your tool is designed primarily for pulling the carriage — from behind the fence out toward end of arm — when crosscutting. Consider the following:
1) When pulling, the direction of saw-blade thrust forces the workpiece down on table and back against the fence to keep it firmly positioned. With a push through stroke the tendency, at start of cut, can be to lift the rear of the workpiece up over the fence.
2) When pulling, if you feed too fast, run into a nail, or otherwise tend to overload the operation, at worst the blade will try to climb up on the work (which it can't do) and will jam. When pushing, any sudden overload can bounce the carriage (and blade) back at you.
3) When pulling, the blade rotates with the direction of travel and tends to feed itself. In fact, with thick and/or gummy workpieces this tendency may be so great that you will have to retard the feeding instead of pulling. When pushing, however, the opposite is true . you may have to push quite hard.
4) When pulling, you start at the fence . which binds the workpiece enough to prevent splintering of its edge. You don't have this advantage when pushing.
DIRECTION OF THRUST FOR A PULL-THROUGH CUT-OFF
DIRECTION OF THRUST FOR A PUSH-THROUGH CUT-OFF
Adjusting Guard, Etc.
For maximum safety adjust the guard and anti-kickback pawls as illustrated. The pawls are not needed to prevent kickback when crosscutting, so should not touch the workpiece — but hanging as shown they do add to the protective value of the guard. Turn the discharge elbow to blow sawdust down and away from you.
NEVER CROSS YOUR ARMS OR GET THEM INTO AN AWKWARD POSITION WHEN TRAVELING CARRIAGE TO MAKE A CROSSCUT
Use Correct Hand Positions
Either hand may be used to travel the carriage - while the other hand is used to hold the workpiece - provided you keep your arms approximately parallel. Never cross your arms. Always stand with the shoulder of the carriage-pulling hand directly in front of the end of the tool arm. Keep the workpiece holding hand well clear of the blade. This usually is easiest to do whenever making a bevel-angle and/or right-hand miterangle cut if the left hand is used to hold the workpiece. When making any left-hand miter-angle cut it generally is easier to pull with the left hand.
If your stance and hand positions are correct you can pull the carriage through for even the widest crosscut, without awkwardness or hesitation. Just be certain you know the path the cut will take — and that your holding hand is clear of this path.
IMPORTANT
After a cut, tool motor may be left running if next cut is scribed, if it is not necessary to reposition the tool, and if carriage is locked, or held by hand or friction lock so it cannot creep. In all other cases stop the motor.
MAKING A STRAIGHT CROSSCUT
A LEFT-HAND PULL THROUGH
A RIGHT-HAND PULL THROUGH
A STRAIGHT CROSSCUT
Use vertical crosscut position. Place workpiece squarely against fence with scribed cut line aligned with the straight crosscut groove in table top. Start the cut from in back of the fence with blade properly lowered 1/32 in. into table groove. Pull straight through. After making the cut, return carriage to starting position and either shut off the motor or lock the carriage in this position before removing your hand from the tool grip to handle the workpiece.
A MITER CROSSCUT
Use miter crosscut position with the arm positioned at the miter angle required. Although arm can be swung either to the left or the right, positions at the right are generally preferable. A greater variety of miter angles and longer cuts can be made on the right side of the table. If cutting a known miter angle to which the arm is set, position the workpiece by aligning a scribe mark on its top side with a pre-cut table groove for this angle. To cut along a scribe mark on the workpiece at an unknown angle you can - with motor off roll the carriage out and back along the arm to visually align blade with the scribe mark.
A BEVEL CROSSCUT
Use bevel crosscut position . and the same procedure as for a straight crosscut. Note that left hand is being used in the illustration for the pull through. This is because cut is being made at the left end of the workpiece. thus requiring that right hand be used to hold the workpiece in order to provide the greatest margin of hand safety. If a 450 bevel angle is to be made you can align a scribe mark made on the underside of the workpiece with the 450 bevel crosscut groove in the table top. For any other bevel angle, best groove the table top first so there will be a groove to align your scribe mark with.
A COMPOUND CROSSCUT
Use compound crosscut position with both the miter and the bevel angles set as required. Since a bevel angle is involved it is easiest, for accuracy, to use a scribe line on the workpiece underside for alignment with a precut table groove at the angles desired. However, it is practical when necessary to use visual alignment (as explained preceding) — and a little experience will enable you to determine where the cut will break through the underside of the workpiece.
ADVANTAGES OF ANGLE SETTING
Your saw, if in proper adjustment, will cut both bevel and miter angles as set with extreme accuracy. In many instances it is neither necessary nor advisable for you to do detailed layout and scribing of cut lines on a workpiece. All that is required
is for you to know the angle desired and to position your workpiece along the fence so that the cut will start at the proper place. For this reason the place and angle at which the saw blade cuts through the fence can be an important factor in helping you to properly position a workpiece for any type of crosscut. Keep this in mind and it will save you time.
CROSSCUTTING A LONG BOARD
One of the big advantages of a radialarm saw is that a board of any length can be crosscut at any angle or at any place, with ease (since the board remains stationary). If the board greatly overhangs the table at one or both sides it is necessary only to support its end(s) so that the end(s) can't see-saw upward when the board is severed. A sawhorse or any support of the same height as the saw table will do.
CROSSCUTTING A WIDE BOARD
The table at the end of this chapter gives maximum cut lengths for various types of crosscuts. These lengths are based on the distance blade will move in traveling out to the end of the arm. Cuts of double these lengths can be made in two parts . by cutting in from one edge to the center and by then cutting in from the opposite edge to meet the first cut. For a straight or a miter crosscut simply rotate the board 1800, same face up, and realign the blade with the cut line. If a bevel angle is involved, however, after rotating the board the bevel would be reversed ... and the bevel angle would have to be reset to the same degree at the opposite side if possible. Flopping the board (other side up), however, will keep a bevel angle at the
same side . but will reverse any miter angle involved. If the angle is a compound one, therefore, it is necessary to flop the board so as to keep the bevel aligned with the saw blade, then swing the arm to the opposite miter angle setting to realign the miter cut with the blade.
CROSSCUTTING A
Refer to the table mentioned above. Cuts of double thickness can be made by flopping the workpiece (other side up) and making a second cut to align with the first. Keep in mind that flopping does not reverse a bevel angle, but does reverse a miter angle.
RIPPING
Set-Up Properly - for Safety
In a ripping operation the workpiece is fed to the blade. Never position the blade so that the workpiece will not touch the fence (or an auxiliary fence). It is virtually impossible to feed work straight without guiding it along a fence, and even a slight twist will bind the blade to cause a kickback.
As a further safety precaution always use the anti-kickback pawls as illustrated . with the guard also positioned as shown.
MAXIMUM IN- AND OUT-RIP CUTS
When to In-Rip — When to Out-Rip
The accompanying diagram shows maximum in-rip and out-rip blade positions for fence normal and rearmost positions. As shown, the maximum in-rip setting with fence at normal is 8-3/4 in. This means the resulting cut at this setting will produce a board 8-3/4 in. in width between the blade and the fence. The other dimensions are to be similarly interpreted.
To measure out-rip from rearmost fence position use scale at left. For other measurements use proper scale at right.
OUT-RIP SET-UP
IN-RIP SET-UP
Because it places the blade away from you, preferably use the in-rip set-up whenever possible. Then, too, in-ripping is always done from the right-hand side of the table, while feeding the workpiece toward the left using your right hand to feed. This is more natural for most operators than the out-rip set-up, which requires
STRAIGHT RIPPING
MAKING A STRAIGHT IN-RIP CUT
feeding from the table left-side toward the right, with the left hand. In any event, remember work is always fed against the direction in which the teeth at the bottom of the blade are moving. With an in-rip set-up the blade (viewed from front of table) revolves counterclockwise; with an out-rip set-up it revolves clockwise.
Set up the fence at position desired (normal or rearmost). Determine the finished width of cut board desired and use the proper scale to make your in-rip or out-rip tool set-up. accordingly. Lock all control settings. Adjust the guard, sawdust discharge elbow (to blow conveniently out of the way) and anti-kickback nawls Start the motor then feed the workpiece by sliding it along the fence through the blade to make the cut. If there is ample room (generally, 6 in. or more) between blade and fence use your inner hand (right hand if in-ripping: left hand if outripping) to push the board all the way through. If not enough room inside but plenty of room at outer side of blade use your outer hand to push the work through.
Whenever there is doubt or pushing through might prove awkward, you can always stop pushing midway of the cut, back the workpiece up half an inch, walk around to the other table side, and finish by pulling the work through
CHANGING THE ANGLE CHANGES CUT WIDTH OF WORK TOP
BEVEL-ANGLE RIPPING
Like straight ripping except that the power unit is pivoted to the desired bevel angle. Since the in-and out-rip scales indicate width of cut for the vertical blade position only, in setting the width for a bevel cut you must use your eye and compensate for the scale difference. Remember, one board surface (either the top or the bottom) will be narrower (distance between fence and cut) than the other. If in-rip beveling the narrower surface is on top; when out-rip beveling, it is at bottom.
RIPPING A SHORT, NARROW BOARD
Whenever a workpiece is too small to either push or pull it through safely, use a push stick. Any scrap board will do — or you can make a conveniently designed one such as shown in the small diagram.
RIPPING A LONG BOARD
To support the end(s) and prevent springing up and down of the board, use a sawhorse at the end(s) as for crosscutting a long board. In addition, to prevent the kerf from closing and binding the saw blade, wedge it open (as illustrated) as soon as there is indication that it might close.
THE SECOND CUT
RIPPING A THICK BOARD (RESAWING)
The table at end of this chapter gives maximum depths of a straight rip cut. Bevel angling reduces this depth. As with crosscutting, however, double the depth can be obtained by flopping the board over (same edge against the fence) to make a second cut in from the other side.
If board is narrow and thick so it stands up high on a narrow, wobbly edge. best support it by substituting a sufficiently high board in place of the regular fence. It is helpful also to clamp a straightedge guide to the table so that work has a channel in which to slide. Splitting such a board in two by using two cuts (as above) generally is referred to as resawing Whenever possible, make the first cut less than half through the board leaving more than half to be severed by the second cut. If this isn't possible. the first cut kerf should be held open with wedges (at each end) while making the second cut. If board is too thick for the two cuts to sever it, make each of the two cuts at maximum depth (2-1/2 in.), then finish by using a hand or band saw (which will track easily in the kerfs of the two cuts)
RIPPING A BOARD WITH AN UNSTRAIGHT EDGE
Never try to rip a board by guiding an unstraight edge along the fence. Any deflection from a straight-line feed will bind the blade and cause kickback. If necessary, you can either nail a straightedge to the board to serve as a guiding edge . or can clamp a straightedge board to the outer bottom side so this will guide along the front table edge as illustrated.
- END AND EDGE CUTTING -
When a board is so shaped that standing it on one end to cut down into the other end is impossible or unsafe, the only way to accomplish the cut is to set-up your tool with the blade horizontal. With the guard on and the arm lowered until the guard rests on the table top, the blade is still somewhat above the table which limits the range of cuts. Removal of the guard will allow you to lower the blade a bit - but we don't recommend this.
Instead, we recommend construction of an auxiliary table (see page 99) two of them, in fact, one for the left half the other for the right half of the table. One such auxiliary table covering the right half of your tool table will greatly increase the range of end cuts you can make . two auxiliary tables covering the entire tool table will do the same for edge cuts. End cutting is like crosscutting; edge cutting is similar to rip-cutting.
FENCE CAN BE MARKED TO HELP YOU LOCATE WORK ON TABLE
If fence is at rear, start motor then slide work into the revolving blade to the proper depth to start the cut.
STRAIGHT END-CUTTING
Use horizontal crosscut position with ed down to left, and the anti-kickback pawls retracted out of the way. Lock the auxiliary table over tool table at right side by installing its fence in place of the regular fence (at either fence position), keeping it far enough to the right not to interfere with carriage travel. Place work on auxiliary table back against the fence, slide it to the left far enough for the blade to cut in to the depth required - then hold or clamp it in place. With carriage behind the fence, lower arm to align blade with your cut line. Start motor and pull carriage out to make the cut.
BEVEL END-CUTTING (CHAMFERING)
A bevel cut that enters the workpiece at its end (rather than its top surface) produces a chamfer. It is made like a straight end cut, but with the power unit pivoted to the desired bevel angle. The accompanying illustration shows the maximum angle and position at which an end bevel can be cut with the workpiece flat on the tool table: for a greater angle or entry at a lower point, use the auxiliary table to elevate the workpiece. To position the work, mark desired bevel on its edge (accompanying illustration), measure the bevel angle and set saw blade to this angle. lower the blade to groove the auxiliary table - then align the workpiece mark with this groove to make the cut.
N Instead of the "window" fence two auxiliary tables may be used. Separate them enough to allow blade to project in front of their fences as desired.
STRAIGHT EDGE-CUTTING
Use the horizontal in-rip position with discharge elbow pointed down to rear and anti-kickback pawls up out of the way. Substitute a "window" fence (as illustrated) in place of the regular fence (at normal position). Elevate the arm to height of desired cut, roll the carriage forward until amount of blade projecting in front of the fence equals desired depth of cut, then lock all controls. If cut is to be lower than the blade can reach elevate the workpiece by laving a flat. large-enough board under it. Start motor and feed workpiece from right to left along the fence, holding it down on the table top (or flat board).
BEVEL EDGE-CUTTING (CHAMFERING)
This is like bevel end-cutting, but from the in-rip position preceding. It generally is done with blade slanted down in front, to cut the underside of workpiece edge ... but use of the auxiliary tables makes it possible
also to slant the blade up at front (if angle is small), to cut off the top of the workpiece edge. A horizontal out-rip position also can be used, if work is narrow enough to slide between the blade and the fences.
MAXIMUM STANDARD CUTS THE 10-IN. SAW WILL MAKE
CROSSCUTTING (ONE PASS)
| Max. depth of cut | 2-1/2 in. | ||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Max, length of cut (fence at rear). | 15,-1/2 in. | ||||||||||
| Max length of cut (fence normal). | 13-5/8 in. | ||||||||||
| Max 45° left miter (fence at rear). | 14-1/2 in. | ||||||||||
| Max 45 0 left miter (fence normal). | 4-1/2 in. | ||||||||||
| Max 45 0 right miter (fence at rear) | 17-5/8 in. | ||||||||||
| Max 45 0 right miter (fence normal) | 14-3/4 in. | ||||||||||
| Bevel angles | 0 0 to 70 0 | ||||||||||
| Two passes will double any length ( | n | d | et | oth | 0 | f | cu | t | gi | ve | en above. |
RIPPING (ONE PASS)
| Max, depth of cut | 2-1/2 in. | |||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Max in-rin width (fence at rear). | 15-7/8 in. | |||||||||||
| Wax. mail (fonce ac rough) | 8-3/4 in. | |||||||||||
| Max. in-rip width (lence normal). | ٠ | ٠ | • | ٠ | • | • | • | ٠ | • | • | • | 0-0/1 111. |
| Max. out-rip width (fence at rear) | ٠ | ٠ | • | ٠ | ٠ | ٠ | ٠ | ٠ | ٠ | ٠ | 25-3/8 in. | |
| Max. out-rip width (fence normal) | • | • | 18-1/8 in. | |||||||||
| Length of cut | • | • | • | • | Unlimited | |||||||
| Bevel angles | • | ٠ | 0 0 to 70 0 | |||||||||
| Two basses will dou | bl | le | de | 2D | th | 0 | f | cu | t. |
Width of workpiece in front of blade is unlimited.
END CUTTING (WITH AUX. TABLE)
| Max. depth of cut | . 2-1/2 in. | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Max, length of cut (fence at rear). | . 16-5/8 in. | |||||
| Max length of cut (fence normal). | . 13-5/8 in. | |||||
| Ht of cut in workpiece (approx.) . | . 0 to 8 in. | |||||
| Bevel angles | . 0 o to 90 o |
EDGE CUTTING (WITH AUX. TABLES)
| Max. depth of cut | 2-1/2 in. |
|---|---|
| Max. resawing cut through | 5 in. |
| Max. work width. in-rip set-up | Unlimited |
| Max. work width, out-rip set-up (fence at rear) | 15-5/8 in. |
| Max. work width, out-rip set-up (fence normal) | 8-1/2 in. |
| Ht. of cut in workpiece (approx.) | 0 to 8 in. |
| Length of cut | Unlimited |
| Bevel angles. | 0° to 90° |
CHAPTER 4 A DADO HEAD AND ITS USES
A dado set (head) is a group of related blades designed for cutting grooves wider than a normal sawblade kerf. The usual set consists of two outside cutters, each 1/8-in. thick, plus a number of inside "chipper" blades which can be installed between the two outside blades to increase the kerf width up to 13/16 in., with most sets.
The set illustrated is a typical Crafts man Kromedge Dado Set designed for radial-arm and bench saw use. It has two outside cutters, five chipper blades and a number of paper shims. The outside blades cut 1/64 in. deeper than the chippers to provide glue relief channels at each side of any cut groove — for cabinetmaking.
-SETTING-UP A DADO SET ON YOUR SAW -
One outside cutter makes a 1/8-in. groove; two together make a 1/4-in. groove. Four of the chippers are 1/8-in. and the fifth is 1/16-in. in width. The two outside blades with five chippers therefore total 13/16 in. Each paper shim furnished is 1/32 in. Therefore, the whole set assembled with a shim between each pair of blades will total exactly 1-in. width.
Never try to make a cut with chippers alone. When installing chippers space them as evenly as possible around the circle for balance, and make certain their teeth nest in the gullets of the cutters. Don't use more than one shim between each chipper and/or cutter. Assemble cutters, shims and/ or chippers one at a time on saw arbor, facing all teeth in the proper direction. If assembly exceeds 7/8in. width the outer saw-blade collar will have to be left off; but use it for all widths up to 7/8 in. Never exceed 1 in. total width.
Your in-rip and out-rip scales show the distance from the fence to the nearest edge of dado outside cutter that is closest to tool motor. If using a horizontal blade position, the extra width of assembled dado set is added on below the single-saw-blade position. When using vertical crosscut position, the extra width is added on to the left of the single-blade groove in table top — and the same is true for bevel crosscut positions. Keep these facts in mind when using dado set-ups of various widths.
GENERAL RULES FOR DADO SAWING
All the positions and set-ups explained for standard sawing operations can be used for dado sawing operations.
The maximum vertical depth of cut with 8-in. dado is 1-1/2 in. Remember, however, a wider cut removes more wood . if you also attempt too deep a cut the excessive load will produce several undesirable re-
sults. It will slow down, possibly jam the tool and spoil the cut. There will be a tendency for the blade to hog and climb the wood in a crosscut operation; feeding will be difficult in a ripping operation. If cutting across the grain, the edges at start and finish may be splintered. Use judgment. If groove is to be deep, accomplish it by making successive shallowcuts, each to a deeper setting.
Run through your fence, a dado head will make a sizeable slot. To avoid ruining fence you can substitute a partial fence which will hold the work but will end just short of where dado head passes . or elevate the workniece so that dado needn't cut the fence.
Since the two outside blades cut slightly deeper than the chippers a cut slot will be slightly higher at its center. If slot is used for decorative purposes sand down the higher, rougher chipper-cut area to leave a smooth, level surface.
A PLAIN DADO GROOVE
A groove is a two-sided slot of desired width that runs from one workpiece edge across to the opposite edge, across the grain. If the groove runs with the grain it is referred to as a plough.
Grooving generally is done with a crosscut operation, as shown.
A PLAIN DADO PLOUGH
Ploughing generally is done with a ripping operation, as shown.
This is a groove or plough that is stopped before it reaches the opposite workpiece edge (is "blind" at one end). To stop the cut at an exact mark draw a line on work surface where the cut is to surface. Lower the dado head to the final depth of cut. If cut will be made by crosscutting, move the carriage to align the dado head with your line – then note position of the in-rip or out-rip pointer so you will know where to stop the carriage when making the cut. If cut will be made by ripping, slide the work along the fence until dado head is aligned with the line - then arrange a stop block to prevent work from sliding any farther.
In either case, due to the circular dado head the finished gain will diminish in depth and surface at the point at which it is stopped. The shallow surfacing end can be squared up to uniform depth with a chisel.
A STOPPED DADO
This is a groove or plough that both starts and stops short of the workpiece edges (in short, it is "blind" at both ends). Draw both start and finish lines, as above. Align the dado head with the starting line ... then start the motor and lower the revolving head into the workpiece to start the cut. Plan to stop at the finish as explained for a gain.
30
V-GROOVES AND PLOUGHS
These are made by beyel angling the dado head. With power unit pivoted to exactly 45°, one cut will make a centered V-slot to a depth at which top of head just starts to enter the wood. The side cut by head end will however, not be smooth. It can be sanded, or a second cut at 45° from opposite side can be made to smooth it. Deeper V-slots will, of course, require two such cuts from opposite sides – and will be centered if a 45o bevel is used for each. For uncentered V-slots make the two cuts at angles which will total 900 (for instance, one at 30°, the other at 60°).
Wider, flat-bottomed V-slots require three or more cuts. Make the outside cuts as above to obtain the slant sides . then use a vertical blade setting to clean out the middle and produce the flat bottom.
WIDE GROOVES AND PLOUGHS
If cut is to be wider than your dado head make several passes alongside each other, overlapping them at least 1/16 in. When making cuts more than twice the dado width it is easiest to make the two outside cuts first then clean out the center.
V-GROOVES IN ONE CUT
V-GROOVES IN TWO CUTS
A FLAT-BOTTOMED V-GROOVE
FOR BEST PERFORMANCE AND LONGEST LIFE BUY ONLY CRAFTSMAN ACCESSORIES
A CHAMFER
This is simply a V-slot that runs off the workpiece edge so that only one slope of the V is cut into the workpiece. If this one slope isn't wider than dado it can be done in one cut as shown — but must be sanded smooth. Wider chamfers (as used in panel raising) can be made by elevating the dado head as necessary for additional cuts . but are more easily made by pivoting the head to slice off the corner (as with a regular saw blade).
USING 45° BEVEL ANGLE FOR DECORATIVE GROOVES AND END CHAMFERS
COMBINATION EDGE TRIMS
By combining chamfers and rabbet cuts a variety of edge finishes can be achieved. The accompanying illustrations suggest some varieties and indicate the dado head positions and cutting sequences. The three in the left column are done as crosscuts; the others are done as rip cuts (the black oblongs represent fence positions), those in the center column representing an in-rip set-up and those in the right column representing an out-rip set-up.
A RABBET
This is simply an ordinary (square) slot that, like a chamfer, runs off the workpiece edge. A rabbet that is no wider than the dado head is most easily cut with the blade vertical, cutting down from on top. A wider rabbet also can be cut in this manner by taking two or more passes as for a wide groove . but is more easily cut with the blade horizontal (see "A TENON", following).
CUTTING TENONS
A tenon is formed at the end of a workpiece by rabbeting one, two, three or all four sides to reduce end so it will fit into a mortise (a square hole) or a slot in a mating workpiece to join the two workpieces. 1-, 2-, 3or 4-sided tenons serve different jointing purposes, but are all essentially alike.
A one-sided tenon is most easily made like a wide rabbet . with the blade horizontal.
A two-sided tenon can be made as two equal rabbets (above) by flopping the workpiece 180° to cut the second side while using exactly the same tool set-up so the two sides will be equal. Or, both first sides can be cut simultaneously if the two cutters are assembled with a proper width wooden washer between them (as illustrated). Use horizontal set-up with head elevated to proper height to center the tenon while making these first cuts. Afterwards, change to a vertical setup to separately make each of the two second cuts.
Three- and four-sided tenons are made as above with additional cuts to create the additional rabbeted sides.
PANEL RAISING
Raised panels are created by rabbeting and/or chamfering all around the workpiece perimeter. For best results do the cross-grain edges first, then the with-grain edges.
TYPES OF TENONS
A mating mortise is cut with a mortising chisel in a drill press, or with a router. A routed mortise can be squared with a chisel . or the tenon can be sanded to fit the end radiuses. Refer to Chapter 7 .
CUTTING A MORTISE WITH MORTISING CHISEL IN A DRILL PRESS
A TONGUE-AND-GROOVE JOINT
The tongue is cut like a two-sided tenon and the groove is cut with the blade horizontal, using a ripping setup if it is a long one or a crosscut if it is short. Make the groove 1/32 in. wider than the tongue thickness, and 1/32 to 1/16-in. deeper . for an easy fit.
There are a variety of lap joints, such as illustrated. All are simply made by dado grooving, ploughing and/or rabbeting as required. When-
ever fitting a board into a slot (as for the Middle Lap) make the slot about 1/32 in. oversize to allow an easy fit.
The Splined Joint is a modified tongue and groove having both boards grooved and using a suitable strip of wood as the tongue. In the example shown the grooves are cut with blade in horizontal in-rip position, but at required bevel angle.
The Slip Feather Joint calls for simultaneously slotting the two workpieces. Use a horizontal crosscut set-up with the two boards clamped in position on auxiliary table.
The Box Joint requires a series of equal and equally-spaced grooves in each board. Use a horizontal crosscut operation with the board clamped on edge to the auxiliary table fence at a position which will allow blade
to cut in to desired depth. Count the number of tenons in the two boards (total in illus. is 10) and divide board height by this number. The result is the required dado-head width. Flush the blade top with the board top to cut the first groove . then lower blade twice its own width (count the elevating handle turns) for each following groove. Do second board exactly the same, when it is flopped 180° the two will join as shown.
The other joints illustrated combine grooves or ploughs with rabbet and/or chamfer cuts. Use whichever saw position is most convenient, and make your settings accurately to obtain well-fitting joints.
CUTTING A CIRCULAR RABBET
To rabbet the edge of a circular workpiece use a horizontal set-up as shown — with the auxiliary tables or a cut-out fence. Clamp two guides to the fence or table so that work can be revolved without shifting its center.
CUTTING A CIRCULAR TENON
To reduce a spindle (like a table leg) at one end to form a circular tenon, use a vertical crosscut set-up as shown. Cut two supports with V-notches in their top edges and secure them to the table top so that they will cradle the spindle and allow you to revolve its end under the blade. Start motor, lower blade to proper depth to start the cut . then revolve the spindle to finish the tenon.
EVENLY SPACED GROOVES AND PLOUGHS
A series of crosscut grooves (straight or at a miter angle) can be evenly spaced by making a guide mark on the fence (as shown) or on the auxiliary table top. Slide the work to align the same edge of each previous groove with this mark when cutting the next groove. To space ploughs evenly relocate the carriage a measured distance on the in- or out-rip scale.
Latticework — straight or diagonal also can be created in the above manner. Use a depth-of-cut that is 1/32 in. (or more, if desired) greater than half the thickness of the workpiece . and evenly groove both of its sides.
The uprights to support a number of spaced shelves (as for a bookcase) are cut by the spaced crosscut method
page 36 ... and the rails for a shutter or similarly cut with the arm at a miter angle.
CHAPTER 5 SPECIAL SAWING OPERATIONS
CENTER CUTS
With your radial-arm saw it is very easy to start or stop a cut inside the edges of a workpiece. To start, simply start the motor first then lower your blade into the workpiece. To stop, elevate the blade out before stopping the motor. If crosscutting, lock the carriage — if ripping, clamp the work to the table — while lowering or raising the blade. In either case use guide lines on the work to position the cuts — and learn how far (how many handle turns) to crank the blade down without digging too far into table top.
REGULAR-BLADE GROOVING
Though much thinner, a regular blade can be used like a dado to produce wide flat-bottomed grooves by overlapping the cuts.
NOTCHING WITH A REGULAR BLADE
To cut a notch (V-groove) with a regular blade requires two cuts. After making first cut at desired bevelangle setting, rotate work 180o to make second cut at the same setting. Either a cross- or a rip-cutting setup can be used.
REGULAR-BLADE RABBETING
OUT-RIPPING THE TOP CUT
Two cuts are required. Preferably make the first cut down into the top (vertical or at any bevel angle desired) . then neatly remove the scrap strip with a second cut in from the side (which similarly can be horizontal or at any bevel angle desired). Usage of different angles for the two cuts will produce a variety of rabbet-edge shapes. The first three illustrations show shapes begun by using vertical and 45o bevel angles for the top cut; the last shows how a side cut will remove the scrap strip as desired.
REGULAR-BLADE CHAMFERING
A scrap strip can be sliced from workpiece edge in just one cut, if desired. If cutting from the top the obliqueness of the angle is limited by the guard and the reach of the blade; if cutting from the side the acuteness of the angle is limited by the height of the workpiece above the table top. Therefore, for an angle greater than 45° (measured between surface of cut and workpiece top) best do the cutting in from the side; for one less than 45° best do cutting from the top.
CHAMFERING TO RAISE A PANEL
Raising a decorative panel as used in furniture making can be done by using an ''up-angled'' chamfer cut from either an in- or out-rip position. The illustration shows a horizontal in-rip set-up with a windowed fence and auxiliary board under workpiece.
REGULAR-BLADE TENONING
As you have learned, each face of a tenon is simply a deep rabbet. Since opposite faces generally must match, the only new requirement is to make them exactly alike. Do this by making the two top cuts at the same tool setting . then similarly making the two side cuts at one setting.
MULTIPLE RIGHT-ANGLE TRIANGLES
Duplicate wedges such as used for glue blocks can be cut quickly by first converting a scrap board into a template guide. Each pair of wedges can be cut from a presawed rectangle . . or you can cut from a longer board if you flop the board to cut each second wedge, and also hold it in the template, parallel to the fence.
TAPER RIPPING FURNITURE LEGS
Symmetrically tapered pieces are often used for furniture legs, arms, etc. You can make these easily with the homemade jig ( page 102 )...or can purchase an excellent Aluminum Taper Jig ( see page A6 ).
Jig use is explained by the accompanying illustrations. An in-rip setup is preferable, though an out-rip set-up can be used. You can make the two different jig settings simply by using a ruler to equalize distance "A" with distance "B" in each case, if desired. Or, to obtain precalculated tapers, you can use the accompanying formula. In either case, the second jig setting (for symmetrical tapers) is always twice the first.
FIRST CUT
SECOND CUT
TAPERING A WIDE BOARD
For a board too wide to use the jig, clamp a straightedge to its underside at taper angle desired so that the straightedge will slide along front table edge.
HANDLING ODD-SHAPED PIECES
A workpiece which has no straight edge to slide against the fence can be rip cut squarely along a desired line by holding it in the convenient homemade jig (see page 102).
PATTERN SAWING
Duplicates of a shape otherwise difficult to copy can be made easily by using the original as a pattern. Secure the board for a duplicate to it in some convenient manner (verv thin nails if holes won't matter - or rubber cement if you want no marks). Set tool up for out ripping with a straightedge board clamped to table against the fence. This board must be such that pattern will slide against its outer edge while the scrap portion of the duplicate rides over it to be cut off by the blade. The blade face must be flush with the board's . outer edge . which requires cutting a clearance the thickness of the blade, prior to starting work.
DECORATIVE PYRAMIDS AND DIAMONDS
Pyramids (flat-topped or peaked) are created by making equally spaced Vgroove cuts (with regular blade or dado) to form the sides. Those shown have square bases . the result of straight crosscutting in each of the two directions. Setting the arm at a miter angle instead will produce diamond-base pyramids. There are as many variations as there are bevel settings, miter settings and/or groove spacing arrangements.
If grooves are cut with a regular blade the scrap strip left from the first direction cuts can be used to make decorative diamonds. Set-up for a 450 bevel and 450 right miter crosscut. Lay triangular strip base down against fence and cut off its right end. Turn it 1800 (still base down) and cut the first diamond from its left end. Again turn it to cut second diamond off of right end ... and so on until strip becomes too short to hold safely.
CUTTING COVES
The rip trough cut in your table ton (bage 10) is a shallow cove. A deeper cove can be crosscut in a workpiece in the same manner - but many passes. each at a lower level, are required. With the blade broadsideon not more than 1/8-in. of stock should be removed per pass - and this very slowly. If the blade is canted (by pivoting to a bevel angle and/or swiveling voke to a miter angle) more of the teeth sharp edges will enter into the cutting action, and progress can be faster. Canting does. however, affect the depth and/or width to which a cove can be cut - as shown by accompanying illustrations.
Longer cove cuts can be made by using an in- or out-rip set-up. For faster cutting with less strain on the blade, the blade should be canted.
CROSSCUTTING A COVE
IN-RIPPING A COVE
CUTTING BOWLS
A bowl or dish cut is simply a cove cut that is "wrapped around" into a circle instead of following a straight line. Start with an in-rip set-up but, instead of moving the workpiece, hold the swivel latch knob up and rotate the yoke 180o to an out-rip position, then back again before lowering blade for another pass. Grasp the anti-kickback rod to do the rotating.
A 450 bevel setting will produce a symmetrical bowl shaped to the circumference of the blade at the deepest blade setting used. A 00 to 450 setting will produce a flat-centered ring; a 450 to 900 setting produces a dish with a peaked center portion.
BOWL CUTTING AT 45° BEVEL
DECORATIVE COVE-CUT TRIM
The decorative trim illustrated can be made to any width or length desired. It has a series of equally spaced crosscut coves separated by dado-cut V-grooves. Use a mark on the fence with guide lines on the work to obtain the equal spacing. If desired, the trim can later be sliced into thin strips for silouhette use.
FINISH BY GLUING TO CURVE
CURVING A WORKPIECE
You can make a smooth bend to any desired radius within reason by kerfing the back side of the workpiece. Kerfs must be uniformly spaced and should penetrate to same depth (1/4 to 1/16 in. from uncut side). The sharper the bend, the closer and deeper the kerfs must be. To determine spacing, make the first kerf. Clamp wood to table top, uncut side down, and mark off distance "R" equal to desired radius. Raise free end to just close the kerf, and measure distance "S" between mark and table top. "S" is the required spacing.
When cuts are completed fill kerfs with glue and clamp wood into desired radius until dry. Spaces may then be wood filled prior to finishing, to hide them.
QUICK FIGURING OF BEVEL AND MITER ANGLES
Any closed construction, like a box, has a number of sides which must be joined together at the proper angles. If the sides are all equal in length (like those of an equilateral triangle, hexagon or octagon), there is a simple formula for figuring the angle (miter or bevel) at which to set your saw to cut each side where it joins the next. Simply divide 180 by the number of sides. The answer is your saw miter or bevel angle setting, in degrees.
| E | XAMPLES |
|---|---|
|
NO.
SIDES |
ANGLE
MITER OR BEVEL |
| 3 | 60° |
| 4 | 45° |
| 5 | 36° |
| 6 | 30° |
| 7 | 25.7° |
| 8 | 22.5° |
| 9 | 20° |
| 10 | 18° |
Simple (90°) Miters
Flat simple miters are crosscut at a 45o miter angle. Use same tool setting for all cuts. After cutting one end of board, turn it end-to-end and also flop it over to cut opposite end.
On-edge simple miters are crosscut at a 450 bevel angle. As above, use same tool setting throughout. Both turn and flop the board to cut its second edge.
Polygon Miters
These vary from simple miters only in the angles used. The angles are calculated as shown on page 45. Cut the flat ones by miter angling, the on-
For each rafter, both the length and the angles at which the rafter board meets the ridge board and sets on the plate board will vary according to roof pitch (slope). All rafters of each type (common valley, hip, etc.) in same roof are alike. For quickest work, therefore, make all like cuts in all rafter boards before resetting saw for next kind of cut. The table on page 48 gives required data for construction of an overhanging roof. First, determine the pitch (1/2, 1/4. etc.) desired - then use this line of the table. The total "rise" (in in.) will be the "rise per ft. of run" times the "run" (in feet).
Begin with a common rafter. Lay board flat on table and cut off one
edge ones by bevel angling - and keep same tool setting for all cuts.
Compound Miters
Any 4, 6, 8, etc. sided structure with sloping sides requires a compound crosscut to make each edge. Pointed steeple roofs and picture frames with sides sloped in or out toward the wall are common examples. Do the cutting as above, after setting the proper compound angle used for all cuts. This compound angle is difficult to calculate, but the table on page 48 gives you the miter (M) and bevel (B) angle setting for all 3- to 10sided structures having sides pitched (sloped with respect to the structure base) at various pitch angles.
- CUTTING RAFTERS
end (close to end as possible) with cut #1 at a miter angle. Measure its ''length'' along inside edge of board as shown, to locate start of cut #2. The ''length'' is the common-rafter "run" x "factor", shortened by 1/2 thickness of ridge board. Turnboard on edge and use a bevel setting to make cut #2 so that blade enters to the depth given in table. Swing board around (still on edge), set saw for cut #3 bevel angle - and align blade to enter board so this cut will exactly meet cut #2 at its deepest point. Make cut #3. Slide board to left (still on edge) to make cut #4 to same (last) setting. The distance between cuts #2 and #4 will determine the amount of roof overhang (as you choose). Last, lay board on side
and use miter angle to make cut #5 so as to exactly meet the end of cut #4. Use this board to mark all other common rafters — then set up to do all of each cut in this sequence: cuts #1 and #5, cut #2, cuts #3 and #4.
NOTE
Cuts #2, #3 and #4 can be made only with the 12-in. saw. If using a 9-in. or 10-in. saw, do cut #4 first, at a miter angle — then start cuts #2 and #3 on saw and finish to depth required with a hand saw.
Hip and valley rafters are done like common rafters, with these differences: The "run" is a different length (see illus.). All cuts are changed to compound angle cuts by the addition of angle "C" (the angle between rafter and ridge board) which must be measured — then be added to saw setting as a miter or bevel angle, whichever is required to compound the cut.
A hip-jack rafter is cut at bottom like a common rafter, but at top like a hip rafter (angle "C" being the angle between this rafter and the hip
rafter). A valley-jack rafter is cut at top like a common rafter, but the bottom is a #5 cut at a compound angle (angle "C" being the angle be-
tween the rafter and the valley rafter). For both of these best actually measure required length, measuring along top edge of board.
|
ROOF
PITCH |
RISE PER
FT. OF RUN |
ANGLES (
1, 2 & 5 |
OF CUTS
3 & 4 |
FACTOR |
DEPTH
OF CUT 1 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1/6 | 4" | 18-1/2° | 71-1/2° | 1.05 | 1-1/4" |
| 1/4 | 6" | 26-1/2° | 63-1/2° | 1.11 | 1-3/4" |
| 1/3 | 8" 4 | 33-3/4° | 56-1/4° | 1.20 | 2-3/8" |
| 3/8 | 9" 4 | 37° | 53° | 1.24 | 2-1/2" |
| 5/12 | 10" 4 | 39-3/4° | 50-1/4° | 1.30 | 2-5/8" |
| 1/2 | 12" 4 | 45° | 45° | 1.41 | 2-3/4" |
| 7/12 | 14" 4 | 49-1 /2° | 40-1/2° | 1.53 | 3-1/8" |
| 5/8 | 15" 4 | 51-1/4° | 38-3/4° | 1.60 | 3-1/8" |
| 2/3 | 16" 4/ | 53° | 37° | 1.66 | 3-1/8" |
| 3/4 | 18" 4/ | 56-1/4° | 33-3/4° | 1.80 | 3-1/8" |
| 5/6 | 20" | 59° | 31° | 1.85 | 3-1/8" |
| Full | 24" | 63-1/2° | 26-1/2° | 2.23 | 3-1/8" |
FACTORS FOR RAFTER CUTS
COMPOUND-ANGLE SETTINGS FOR POPULAR STRUCTURES
| PITCH | NUMBER OF | SIDES | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| OF SIDE | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 |
| 0° | B- 0.0° | B- 0.0° | B- 0.0° | B- 0.0° | B- 0.0° | B- 0.0° | B- 0.0° | B- 0.0° |
| M-60.0° | M-45.0° | M-36.0° | M-30.0° | M-26.0° | M-22.5° | M-20.0° | M-18.0° | |
| 5° | B- 3.5° | B- 3.5° | B- 3.0° | B- 2.5° | B- 2.5° | B- 2.0° | B- 2.0° | B- 2.0° |
| M-60.0° | M-45.0° | M-36.0° | M-30.0° | M-25.5° | M-22.5° | M-20.0° | M-18.0° | |
| 10° | B- 8.0° | B- 7.0° | B- 6.0° | B- 5.0° | B- 4.5° | B- 4.0° | B- 3.5° | B- 3.0° |
| M-59.5° | M-44.5° | M-35.5° | M-29.5° | M-25.5° | M-22.0° | M-19.5° | M-17.5° | |
| 15° | B-12.5° | B-10.5° | B- 8.5° | B- 7.5° | B- 6.5° | B- 5.5° | B- 5.0° | B- 4.5° |
| M-58.5° | M-44.0° | M-34.0° | M-29.0° | M-25.0° | M-22.0° | M-19.5° | M-17.5° | |
| 20° | B-18.5° | B-14.0° | B-11.5° | B-10.0° | B- 8.5° | B- 7.5° | B- 6.5° | B- 6.0° |
| M-57.5° | M-43.0° | M-34.0° | M-28.5° | M-24.5° | M-21.5° | M-19.0° | M-17.0° | |
| 25° | B-22.0° | B-17.5° | B-14.5° | B-12.0° | B-10.5° | B- 9.0° | B- 8.0° | B- 7.5° |
| M-56.0° | M-41.5° | M-33.0° | M-27.5° | M-23.5° | M-20.5° | M-18.5° | M-16.5° | |
| 30° | B-26.5° | B-21.0° | B-17.0° | B-14.5° | B-12.5° | B-11.0° | B- 9.5° | B- 8.5° |
| M-53.5° | M-40.0° | M-32.0° | M-26.5° | M-22.5° | M-19.5° | M-17.5° | M-16.0° | |
| 35° | B-31.0° | B-24.0° | B-19.5° | B-16.5° | B-15.0° | B-12.5° | B-11.0° | B-10.0° |
| M-51.5° | M-38.0° | M-30.0° | M-25.0° | M-21.5° | M-19.0° | M-16.5° | M-15.0° | |
| 40° | B-35.0° | B-27.0° | B-22.0° | B-18.5° | B-16.0° | B-14.0° | B-12.5° | B-11.5° |
| M-48.5° | M-36.0° | M-28.5° | M-23.5° | M-20.0° | M-17.5° | M-15.5° | M-14.0° | |
| 45° | B-39.0° | B-30.0° | B-24.5° | B-20.5° | B-17.5° | B-15.5° | B-13.5° | B-12.5° |
| M-46.5° | M-33.5° | M-26.5° | M-22.0° | M-19.0° | M-16.5° | M-14.5° | M-13.0° | |
| 50 ° | B-42.5° | B-33.0° | B-27.5° | B-22.0° | B-19.0° | B-16.5° | B-15.0° | B-13.5° |
| M-42.0° | M-31.0° | M-24.5° | M-21.5° | M-17.5° | M-15.0° | M-13.5° | M-12.0° | |
| 55° | B-46.0° | B-35.5° | B-28.5° | B-23.5° | B-20.5° | B-18.0° | B-16.0° | B-14.5° |
| M-38.0° | M-28.0° | M-22.0° | M-18.5° | M-15.5° | M-13.5° | M-12.0° | M-11.0° | |
| 60° | B-49.5° | B-37.5° | B-30.5° | B-25.5° | B-21.5° | B-19.0° | B-17.0° | B-15.5° |
| M-34.5° | M-24.5° | M-19.5° | M-16.5° | M-14.0° | M-12.0° | M-10.5° | M- 9.5° | |
| 65° | B-52.5° | B-39.5° | B-32.0° | B-26.5° | B-23.0° | B-20.0° | B-18.0° | B-16.5° |
| M-29.0° | M-21.5° | M-17.0° | M-14.0° | M-12.0° | M-10.5° | M- 9.0° | M- 8.0° | |
| 70 ° | B-55.0° | B-41.5° | B-33.5° | B-28.0° | B-24.0° | B-21.0° | B-18.5° | B-17.0° |
| M-24.0° | M-17.5° | M-13.5° | M-11.5° | M- 9.5° | M- 8.5° | M- 7.5° | M- 6.5° | |
| 75 ° | B-57.0° | B-43.0° | B-34.5° | B-29.0° | B-24.5° | B-21.5° | B-19.0° | B-17.5° |
| M-18.5° | M-13.0° | M-10.5° | M- 8.5° | M- 7.0° | M- 6.5° | M- 5.5° | M- 5.0° | |
| 80° | B-58.5° | B-44.0° | B-35.5° | B-29.5° | B-25.0° | B-22.0° | B-19.5° | B-18.0° |
| M-13.0° | M- 9.0° | M- 7.0° | M- 6.0° | M- 5.0° | M- 4.0° | M- 3.5° | M- 4.0° | |
| 85° | B-59.5° | B-44.5° | B-36.0° | B-30.0° | B-25.5° | B-22.5° | B-20.0° | B-18.0° |
| M- 7.0° | M- 4.5° | M- 3.5° | M- 3.0° | M- 2.5° | M- 2.0° | M- 1.5° | M- 1.5° | |
| 90° | B-60.0° | B-45.0° | B-36.0° | B-30.0° | B-26.0° | B-22.5° | B-20.0° | B-18.0° |
| M- 0.0° | M- 0.0° | M- 0.0° | M- 0.0° | M- 0.0° | M- 0.0° | M- 0.0° | M- 0.0° |
Each B (Bevel) and M (Miter) Setting Is Given to the Closest 0.5°.
CHAPTER 6 SHAPING, JOINTING & PLANING
YOUR TOOL AS A SHAPER
Your Radial-Arm Saw is an exceptionally versatile shaper. It even offers many advantages not obtainable with an ordinary homeshop shaper ... because it can shape from on top as well as from the side. You will need a Molding Cutter Head Set and a Molding Head Guard (see bage A3). The Shaper Fence, designed for your saw, will also prove useful. A cutter head is mounted in place of and exactly like the regular saw blade, with the flat side of its cutter(s) leading. The Molding Head Guard replaces the saw guard . and like the saw guard should always be used for maximum safety.
The guard shown at right and in the following illustrations replaces the original model. . . but both models (whichever you have) serve exactly the same purpose.
CRAFTSMAN SHAPER FENCE ATTACHMENT
We highly recommend the use of this fence for the ease with which it makes possible many of the operations explained here.
ORDINARY SHAPER OPERATION
Shaping, as with a bench shaper, generally is done from the side ... using an in-rip set-up with the blade horizontal and projecting just far enough forward of the fence to make the cut along the workpiece edge that is against the fence. Either the Crafts man Shaper Fence or a prepared fence with a suitable opening is required. The prepared fence can be simply two boards separated at center to allow the molding head and guard to project through . or you can use the two auxiliary tables or a "windowed" fence as described in Chapter 3.
NOTE
The right-hand portion of fence (on side from which workpiece is fed) is called the In-Feed Side; the other portion (at other side of cutter head) is the Out-Feed Side.
NOTE
Illus. at top shows guard off for better view. In practice, however, always use a guard.
For narrow work and/or special operations your fence should be fitted with a Hold-Down Attachment — to keep the workpiece snugly in position on the table and against the fence for smoother, easier shaping. A second choice is to use homemade hold-ins clamped to table top . or, at least, to clamp a straightedge guide to table to butt against the workpiece outer edge.
BOTTOM OR FULL-EDGE SHAPING
If fence is at normal with the cutter head over the square opening provided in table rear boards, the blade(s) can be lowered to scrape or dig into the table top. To cleanly shape a workpiece edge, however, it is preferable to have the blade overlap at least 1/16 in. Therefore, when shaping the bottom of a workpiece edge or the entire edge — it generally is advisable to elevate the workpiece. Use either the auxiliary tables previously mentioned, or place a suitable board under the workpiece.
If a shaping operation removes stock from all of a workpiece edge, the already cut portion of the edge will be recessed back from the fence. When the remaining whole edge contacting the In-Feed Side of the fence becomes insufficient, your feeding pressure will rock the workpiece up against the Out-Feed Side and spoil the cut. To avoid this the Craftsman Shaper Fence is designed so that the Out-Feed Side can be adjusted forward to compensate for the removed stock. If you are using a board fence you will have to obtain and clamp to the Out-Feed Side a strip of material exactly thick enough to accomplish the compensation - or compensate the In-Feed Side as explained on the next page.
SHAPING A TOO-NARROW BOARD
Unless at least 50% of an edge being shaped is at all times in contact with either the In- or Out-Feed Side of fence, your feeding pressure is likely to rock the workpiece into the cutter to spoil the cut. In short, you can't feed the end of a too-narrow board successfully, all by itself. Instead, clamp your workpiece to a wider board that will provide sufficient bearing against the fence.
EDGE JOINTING
You can simultaneously reduce workpiece width and square the edge(s) by shaping the entire edge with the planer and jointer cutter(s). Preferably presize your workpiece so that no more than 1/4-in. (the maximum advisable in one pass) need be removed from each edge. If edge is no thicker than width of cutter the full edge can be jointed in one operation as explained preceding. A thicker edge, however, will require two or more operations, each with the cutter head elevated to a different height. In such case only the last operation (which finally fully recesses the out-feed side) requires fence compensation
The smoothest possible surface will result if only about 1/16-in. of stock is removed. This requires very accurate adjustment of the Craftsman Shaper Fence or, if using a board fence, requires too thin a strip to be clamped to the Out-Feed Side. Better adjust the In-Feed Side. Use two separate fence boards and locate them at the rearmost table position. To obtain exactly 1/16-in, adjustment place two or more pennies down between the In-Feed Side and the table board in front of it. When clamped in place the In-Feed Side will then be recessed and the Out-Feed Side will be this distance forward from it.
CIRCLE EDGE SHAPING
The Craftsman Shaper Fence can be adjusted to form a V for guiding circular work that is to be edge shaped. Another method is to use a pair of homemade V-block sections, as illustrated, to be installed at the fence position.
A piece of 1/2 x 1/8" alum. bar bent to shape and secured to a fence board makes an excellent guide.
For jig construction see page 102.
CONTOUR EDGE SHAPING
Contour shaping can be done as shown if the workniece is presawed to the desired contour - and if only the top of the edge is to be shaped (so that bottom of edge remains to ride against the guide). The guide takes the place of the fence. It should extend forward far enough to provide room at each side for swinging the workpiece. Its nose should be blunt enough to ride within the smallest radius of the contoured edge . and the guide and cutter head must lie on a common centerline perpendicular to the table front edge. If necessary, make a hole or recess in guide so shaft end can be lowered into it. While feeding the workpiece keep swinging it so that the immediate portion of edge being cut is perpendicular to this centerline - and so that you are pushing it into the cutter along this centerline.
PATTERN SHAPING
The same guide described preceding can be used in much the same manner with a pattern. Shape the pattern to exact contour desired and size it so that as it rides against the guide the workpiece edge will be simultaneously reduced and shaped as required by the cutter blade(s). The workpiece edge need not be exactly presawed to contour — just have it enough oversize to allow for the cut, without requiring too much removal of stock. Use thin brads or rubber cement to hold bottom of workpiece to pattern.
STRIP MOULDINGS
For molding thin workpieces make a simple wooden jig such as illustrated - to guide workpiece firmly past the cutter head. Or, you can mold the edge of a wider piece, then saw off the desired strip, if you prefer.
BEVEL ANGLE SHAPING
Bevel angling the cutter head (by pivoting power unit) will vary the type of shape produced by a cutter blade. The shaper guard will permit angling up to approx. 45o.
If an out-rip (instead of in-rip) setup is used, bevel angling will allow you to make cuts into the workpiece top surface. By resetting the carriage outward on the arm for each new cut a series of parallel cuts can be achieved. The illustration shows a planer blade in use to produce simulated louvers. Note that edges of workpiece against fence and straightedge guide must be exactly parallel.
NOTE
Angles greater than permitted by the shaper guard can be obtained if the regular guard is used, instead. In fact, using the regular guard you can set the cutter head in a vertical in- or out-rip position, to cut straight down into workpiece, if desired. For safety, always use one of the guards.
SURFACE DECORATIONS
Two suggested methods of using molding cutters to decorate a workpiece surface are illustrated. The rosettes are made by using the same technique described in previous chapter for cutting a bowl. For making the radius type cuts use a bevel-angled out-rip set-up . lock the carriage, but hold the arm unlocked and swing it from right to left as required.
SURFACE PLANING WITH ROTARY SURFACE PLANER ATTACHMENT
Excellent surface planing can be accomplished with a Craftsman Rotary Surface Planer Attachment ( page A3 ) mounted in place of the molding cutter head. Cuts up to 1/4-in. deep can be taken — and a board can be both surfaced smooth and reduced to desired thickness (as with a thickness planer) by planning the amount of stock to be removed from each of its two sides.
Use a horizontal in- or out-rip setup. Advance and relock the carriage for each successive cut needed to cover entire surface. Repeat for another all-over operation at a new depth if removal of more stock is desired.
SHAPES YOU CAN MOLD WITH MOLDING HEAD CUTTERS
SHAPES YOU CAN MOLD WITH MOLDING HEAD CUTTERS
57
CHAPTER 7 ROUTING, CARVING & DRILLING
YOUR TOOL AS A ROUTER OR DRILL
Fitted with a chuck at the accessory shaft end your tool becomes a drill press . but a drill press that can be directed vertically, at any desired bevel angle, or horizontally, to accomplish routing, carving, shaping and drilling operations not possible with any other type of homeshop press. All that you need are a chuck and cutting tools, such as router and carving bits, wood and/or metal bits or drills. Refer to page A6 .
Remove the saw guard and blade. Mount the chuck at the accessory shaft end (preferably a 1/2-in. key chuck for maximum performance), with the desired cutter in the chuck.
TOOL SET UP FOR CROSSCUT ROUTING
STRAIGHT-LINE ROUTING
Any work that calls for straight cuts - into or through workpiece from on ton, or into edge from one side - can be accomplished either by a cross cut or ripping operation, whichever seems most suitable. For crosscutting the carriage is traveled; for ripping the work is slid along the fence. If routing deeply or clear through, increase the depth by stages. Width also can be increased by making more than one pass. Feed no faster than tool can take the work without noticeable slowing. To make angled slots, bevel angle the power unit and swivel the voke to obtain desired direction of cutter approach.
TOOL SET UP FOR RIPCUT ROUTING
IMPORTANT
A chucked cutter revolves counterclockwise as viewed from above. Always move carriage or feed work so that stock being removed advances into sharp side of cutter .
FREEHAND ROUTING
Either the tool or the work can be moved. If tool is to be moved, clamp the work onto the table, unlock the carriage and arm — then use one hand to travel the carriage while using other hand to hold the arm latch out and swing the arm. If work is to be moved, hold it while lowering revolving cutter to depth somewhere in area to be routed out — then use both hands to swing the work as desired. All tool controls are locked when work is moved.
The panel indenting illustrated is being accomplished by freehand tool movement to remove central area after straightline routing of the rectangular panel outline. Successive straightline cuts (rip or crosscut) also could be used to remove center. The cloverleaf design shown is being freehand routed by moving the workpiece under the locked tool.
HORIZONTAL RIPCUT ROUTING
Clamp on arm stops carriage inward travel at start of cut. Lock carriage when depth is reached. Use stop blocks at each end of work, or marks on fence.
PATTERN ROUTING OF SURFACE DESIGNS
Either indented or raised panels of desired design can be quickly duplicated from an appropriate pattern secured (by thin brads or rubber cement) to underside of workpiece. Use an auxiliary board on table top, with a 1/4 to 1/2-in. dowel projecting up the thickness of pattern and directly under the router bit. Freehand feed the workpiece while pressing pattern edge against the dowel - to recreate the design outline in the workpiece.
PATTERNS AND DOWEL SET-UP
PATTERN-GUIDED OPERATION
By using the Craftsman shaper fence or homemade V-blocks ( Chapter 6 ) to guide rotation of circular workpiece, either perfect-circle routed slots or
any of the edge shapes possible with the various router bits can be accomplished. Bevel angling will add variety to the results obtainable.
CIRCULAR GROOVING AND EDGE SHAPING -
CONTOUR GROOVING AND EDGE SHAPING -
Using the desired shape router bit you can shape the edge or groove parallel to the edge of any contoured workpiece that the bit is not too large to follow. There are three methods.
If an arbor-type bit is used to shape the top of the edge, the uncut bottom portion of edge is thrust against a pilot screw added on at bottom of bit. If a shafted bit is used (at edge or for parallel grooving) use a dowel pin (as previously described) to press either the uncut edge portion or a
WHILE CUTTING
pattern (underneath workpiece) against. Locate the pin behind or in front of bit as required — but have it and bit on same line perpendicular to table front edge, so you can thrust straight back while swinging and feeding work to the bit. The third method is used if all or the bottom part of workpiece edge is to be cut. It requires a pattern secured on top of work and shimmed up high enough to ride against the bit shaft.
ROSETTES OF YOUR DESIGN
Rosettes of your own design can be created by using a power wood bit ground to shape desired, as shown.
DOVETAIL ROUTING
Interlocking dovetail joints, as used in fine cabinetwork, are quickly and easily made with a 1/2-in. dovetail bit on 1/4-in. shank and the Dovetail Attachment ( page A3 ). The attachment is furnished with instructions for setting it up.
The two workpieces to be joined must be accurately sized and squared. They are mounted inner sides out in the attachment with the piece that is to be the front on top. Butt both firmly against the left-side stop brackets, and against each other, as shown.
FOR A FLUSH JOINT - draw a line on top piece parallel to edge that butts against vertical piece, and a distance in from the outer edge of the vertical piece that equals twice the vertical piece thickness less 1/8 in. Position the comb so the ends of its teeth are flush with outer surface of vertical piece - and look down between the teeth. If drawn line is visible, mount the router stop on comb with its outer edge above the line and secure stop and comb to the attachment. If line is not visible. move comb back until line can just be seen - then secure comb in place without the stop.
FOR A LIPPED JOINT — move the line back a distance equal to desired depth of lip, then mount comb without stop, as above. The top piece dovetail cuts will be recessed this much more . . and following the dovetail operation you can rabbet this edge to the predetermined lip depth.
SETTING GUIDE AND COMB FOR A FLUSH JOINT
FOR CUTTING — set dovetail bit to cut exactly 3/8-in. deep. A shallow setting makes a sloppy joint; too deep a cut makes a too tight joint. Position tool so you can slide dovetail attachment along a side edge of table, pulling it out toward you to feed bit in between comb teeth. Starting at one end, use both hands to feed work to bit. Carefully work bit in and out around each comb tooth from start to end.
NOTE
When doing a drawer, make joint for one end of front and first side as described . but to make joint for other end of front and second side butt the pieces against stops at right side of attachment (instead of those at left side).
SETTING DEPTH OF CUT
DECORATIVE ROUTED MOLDINGS
A typical routed molding is shown. Even spacing is obtained by using guide lines to advance the work along the fence for crosscut routing of each groove. Finished piece can be used as is, or be sliced into thin strips for bordering.
WOOD BORING -----
Any power wood bit, twist drill, hole saw or similar boring tool that can be used in a drill press can be used in your tool. And your radial-arm saw has the big advantage of being able to bore in at any angle desired - or to bore in horizontally, with extreme and simple accuracy, at the
end of a long workpiece. Typical operations are illustrated. Note that wherever boring is done horizontally the work is properly backed up — by a high enough fence, by clamping, by a V-block, or in some manner to assure a firm support. Proper holding jigs assure better, easier work.
CHAPTER 8
SANDING & POLISHING
- YOUR TOOL AS A SANDER-POLISHER -
Your tool can be used as a disk sander, a drum sander, and as a surface sander and polisher. For disk sanding use the 10-in. plate, which has a threaded hub for mounting on the saw-blade shaft end. The drum is threaded to mount on the accessory shaft end; and the rubber sanderpolisher disk has a 1/4-in. adapter for mounting in a chuck at the accessory shaft end. (See page A5 for these items.)
Three different grit sandpapers are available for the above: coarse, medium and fine. Use the coarse
for removing large amounts of wood (especially softwood); the medium for closer shaping to contour: and the fine for all finish sanding to exact dimensions (when only about 1/32 in. of stock is left to be removed). Two different grits can be mounted, one each side, to the plate. Use either stick or liquid disk cement. General practice is to mount a fine and either a medium or a coarse. Interchangeable sanding sleeves hold by friction on the drum. The sander-polisher kit contains instructions for mounting various disks and the lambswool polishing bonnet.
GENERAL SANDING RULES
Power sanding is very much faster than hand sanding. Also, if not abused, the sandpaper will last much longer. For good work obey these rules:
1 - Don't press too hard - let the power (not your muscle) do the work.
2 - Don't shove a sharp corner directly into the sandpaper - round it off by approaching from its sides.
3 - Sand with the wood grain whenever possible - not across it.
4 - Avoid sloppy rounding off of edges and corners that should remain square.
5 - Keep your work and sandpaper dry. If wood is green (especially softwood), finish as best you can, rub wood surface lightly with a damp cloth to
raise the wood nap (fuzz), let wood dry - then resand to a better finish.
6 - Don't sand to remove paint - use a paint remover.
7 - Keep sandpaper surface open by brushing occasionally with a stiff bristle brush to remove wood chips, gum, etc.
8 - If sandpaper becomes worn, torn or crumpled, replace it.
9 - Remember that outer part of a disk is movingfaster than center part, will do faster work.
10 - Wherever there is a choice, hold work so that revolving disk or drum will tend to thrust it down or back against its support — instead of lifting or pulling it away.
DISC SANDING
This can be safely done without the guard if you do not wear a tie, long sleeves, loose apron strings — or any such thing that could be caught up by the revolving plate or shaft. With the plate in place of the saw blade, your tool is just as versatile as it is when sawing. You can use all the various set-ups and approaches previously discussed.
FREEHAND DISK SANDING
MITER ANGLE DISK SANDING
COMPOUND ANGLE DISK SANDING
CROSSCUT DISK SANDING
OUT-RIP, BEVEL ANGLE
DRUM SANDING
The saw blade and guard are removed when a drum is mounted at the accessory end. Hence, all the set-ups and approaches already explained for routing and drilling can be used to apply the drum to the work. A drum is especially useful for sanding contoured edges, inside edges and long, narrow, straight edges — as shown by the illustrations.
DRUM SANDING A NARROW, LONG, STRAIGHT EDGE
DRUM SANDING A RABBET EDGE
DRUM SANDING AN INSIDE EDGE
------ SURFACE SANDING AND POLISHING ------
Like the drum, the sanding-polishing disk is mounted at the accessory end - and various routing set-ups can be used. Its chief advantage, however, is its capacity to smoothly and ac-
curately sand a surface to a true level and uniform workpiece thickness - and to power polish this surface after the application of wax or other shine-type wood finish.
CROSSCUT SURFACE SANDING
FENCE-GUIDED SURFACE POLISHING
CHAPTER 9
WORKING WITH METALS AND OTHER MATERIALS
The versatility of your radial-arm saw in woodworking also can be applied to working with metals and other materials — if the proper cutting, abrasive or other type tool is used. Some typical operations are pictured here, and briefly explained following:
The Steel Slicer Blade (page A4) will quickly and easily cut through sheet steel and tubing up to 1/16-in. thickness. It is also excellent for making clean, ungummed cuts through Lucite, Plexiglas and similar plastics up to about 1/4-in. thickness. Just keep cutting fast enough to avoid allowing the blade to overheat the plastic.
A Ply-Tooth or Satin-Cut Veneer Blade (page A4) will cut any of the do-it-yourself aluminum products sheets, bars, tubing or extruded shapes. For harder metals, such as copper or brass, use a non-ferrous metal cutting blade.
NOTE
Use pull-through carriage travel whenever crosscutting sheet stock . but use a push-through travel whenever crosscutting tubing, bar stock or any shape that is about as high as it is wide. It is easier to hold these latter shapes firmly if it is between fence and blade at start of cut.
A Wire Scratch Wheel (page A5) mounted at saw-blade shaft-end can be used for removing rust, paint, stains, mineral deposits, etc. from metals and other hard materials. The same purposes also can be accomplished with one of the shafted Wire Cup Brushes chucked at the accessory shaft-end.
A WIRE BRUSH OPERATION
Metal buffing and polishing also can be done either with a Buffing Wheel ( page A5 ) at saw-blade shaft-end or a shafted Buff or Polishing Wheel chucked at the accessory shaft-end. Red Rouge and Tripoli (brown) are the two most used abrasives for metal polishing. These are furnished in bars for easy application to the buff while in operation.
A BUFFING OPERATION
Any drilling, countersinking, counterboring or honing operation that can be performed on a drill press of equivalent rpm (3450 rpm) can be accomplished with your tool and the proper cutting tool chucked at the accessory shaft-end.
CHAPTER 10
INFORMATION ABOUT MATERIALS
LUMBER
Lumber is naturally the most expensive material you will purchase for a project — and it is well to know something about lumber in order to save money on your purchases. There are several things to remember when buying lumber:
Boards, Dimension Lumber, Timbers and Moldings
1. All lumber is divided into hardwoods and softwoods. Hardwoods are the deciduous trees, which lose their leaves in the fall; while softwoods are the conifers (evergreens). Actually, a few "hardwoods" are softer than some "softwoods" and viceversa; but, on the whole, hardwoods are tougher, closer grained, more durable, and more difficult to work with.
2. Hardwoods generally have better grain structure than the softwoods take stains, waxes, etc. better. As a rule, softwoods are less expensive (notably pine, spruce and fir which are plentiful in this country because trees mature relatively fast permitting re-forestation on a commercial basis).
3. Wood contains pores — open spaces — which are more or less pronounced (according to the type of wood). Those having large pores (like mahogany and oak) are called "open-grained"; while those with small pores (like birch and maple) are called "close-grained".
4. Wood "grain" is caused by the manner in which a tree grows. At
the end of each year's growth the circumference of the trunk (or a branch) is girdled with a new "annular" ring, which forms a harder, fibrous layer. As growth in some trees is very regular, these rings are evenly spaced, etc.; but in other varieties the rings are extremely uneven in spacing, thickness, etc. The pattern formed by the rings is called the grain. There are three practiced ways of slicing a tree
trunk to expose the grain in three different manners:
A TRANSVERSE SURFACE is obtained by crosscutting lumber at right angles to the grain (as when felling a tree). This surface exposes every ring so that, if you have a full round log, the grain runs around in moreor-less perfect circles.
A RADIAL SURFACE is obtained by slicing a log lengthwise through its center. Such a surface exposes the grain in more or less parallel lines at each side of the center (pith) of the tree. Two such cuts at right angles to each other produce what is called a Quarter-Sawed (or Quartered) board - which, to be made square, would have its other two sides sawed parallel to the first two. Hence, theoretically. one tree (regardless of its diameter) can make only four quartered boards: but in practice (and since only one face of a board is considered important), each of the four quarter sections is cut into many boards by making additional "slices" parallel to the original cuts. The eight or so boards produced which face on (or close to) one of the diameter cuts are then considered "quarter-cut" boards: while the remainder are classed as Tangential Surface boards.
A TANGENTIAL SURFACE is obtained by slicing a log lengthwise with parallel cuts, starting at one side and ending at the opposite side. Most commercial lumber is cut in this manner (called "plain-sawed") as it is easiest to run a log through a saw mill to make such cuts (no particular "planning" is required: a log is simply "sliced" into whatever number of pieces it will make - then the pieces are squared at the ends and planed). Resulting center cuts may be classed as "guarter-cut" pieces (but there are only two to four which could be so classed). The outer cuts generally have very erratic grains since, the farther out the cut is the broader each exposed ring surface
will be. If a ring happens to be flattened at the side parallel to an outside cut the resulting surface may be more-or-less all ring — and the grain lines may just about parallel the surface of the board through its thickness.
5. The strength of a board (plank) or a timber (beam) depends upon its grain. Wood - especially softwood separates easily along any grain line as compared to the force required to break it across its grain lines. That is, a plank with transverse surfaces. while it offers the "prettiest" grain structure, has little strength; while one that is an outer cut with tangential surfaces, while least attractive in appearance, offers the greatest allaround strength. Quartered planks have good strength end-to-end; but are relatively weaker from side-toside. In short, whenever the grain lines at plank's edges run from one surface through to the other surface. the plank is "relatively weak" along these grain lines and should not be used to support weight which could separate the grains and break the plank. "Knots", the solid rings formed where a branch joins the trunk, are any board's weakest points - in fact. after drving, many knots will separate and fall from a board of their own accord.
SOFTWOOD LUMBER GRADES -
SELECT
This is lumber of good, "selected" appearance with good grain and finishing qualities.
GRADE A: Suitable for stains and other natural finishes. Practically flawless.
- GRADE B: Also for stains; but with a few small defects or blemishes.
- GRADE C: With defects which can be covered easily with paint.
- GRADE D: With more defects than "C"; but still of a type which can be hidden with paint.
COMMON
This lumber has too many defects for cabinet work or any application requiring a "finished" appearance.
- NO. 1: Good, sound, water-tight utility lumber with tight knots and limited blemishes. No warp, wind, splits, checks or decay.
- No. 2: On the whole, sound but defects such as checks at board ends, loose knots (but not knotholes), blemishes and discoloration. Should be warp and wind free, and without damaging solits.
- No. 3: A medium-quality construction lumber with pronounced defects of all types which necessitate some waste when using it.
- No. 4: A low-quality construction lumber with even defects including open knotholes.
- No. 5: Practically waste lumber, good only for use as a "filler" and then with considerable waste.
6. Some wood — notably pine, fir, spruce, ash, elm and chestnut presents a better grain for finishing when plain-sawed; while most popular hardwoods — mahogany, oak, walnut, cherry and hickory — are better (but generally more expensive) when quartered. On the whole, quartered boards shrink less in width when drying, and are less likely to warp.
7. All lumber is graded for sale, and priced according to grade. Softwoods
and hardwoods are graded differently — there is no relation between softwood grades and hardwood grades. Refer to the accompanying charts for gradings, and buy lumber in grades according to your needs. Never waste money on a better grade than will serve your purpose. And when you do specify a certain grade (and pay for it) check carefully to be certain every board meets the specifications (mistakes can happen). Most lum-
- HARDWOOD LUMBER GRADES -
Hardwood grading is not consistent for all trees, nor in all parts of the country. On the whole, however, the grades are as follows:
- FIRSTS: Lumber that is 91-2/3% clear on both sides - considered the best possible for cabinetwork.
- SECONDS: Lumber that is 83-1/3% clear on both sides - still very good for most cabinetwork.
- FIRSTS & SECONDS: A selection which must contain not less than 20% firsts.
- SELECTS (in alder, ash, beech, birch, cherry, chestnut, maple, mahogany, sycamore and walnut only): Lumber that is 90% clear on one side only (other side not graded). Good for most cabinetwork, with some waste.
- SAPS (in poplar only): Approximately the same as select above.
- NO. 1 COMMON: One side only, 66-2/3% clear. With waste, good for interior and less demanding cabinetwork.
- NO. 2 COMMON: One side only, 50% clear. OK for painting, some paneling and flooring.
- STAINED SAPS (in poplar only): Equivalent to No. 2 common, above.
- NO. 3A COMMON: One side only, 33-1/3% clear.
- NO. 3B COMMON: One side only, 25% clear.
- SOUND-WORMY (in chestnut only): A No. 1 above, but with wormholes.
NOTE: Hardwoods are supposed to be free of warp, wind, bad splits or checks. "Clear" refers to the number of clear cuttings that can be obtained.
ber dealers will take back rejects and exchange these for correct quality boards, if a mistake has been made and if you inform them correctly and promptly. If practicable, when purchasing a few boards, go to the yard and help select these yourself - you'll get exactly what you want with least trouble to you and to the lumber company!
8. Lumber (boards) is sold in three ways: Rough, Surfaced and Milled (or Worked).
ROUGH lumber consists of boards as cut to size by a saw mill. Boards of this type are furry and splintery (really "rough"). They will, however, "measure up" to their rated (Nominal) sizes in width and thickness. That is: a rough 2x4 is actually 2x4 inches.
SURFACED (dressed) lumber is rough lumber after it has been planed. Thus, the surfaced board measures less (in width and/or thickness) than its original (Nominal) dimensions. Boards and timbers may be surfaced on one side (S1S), two sides (S2S), one edge (S1E), two edges (S2E) - or a combination of any of these. However. the only lumber you will probably use is that commonly sold at dealers who cater to homeshop trade - which is fully dressed lumber. surfaced both sides and both edges (S4S). Remember that such lumber is still referred to by its Nominal (original rough) size: but will actually be somewhat smaller. The accompanying chart shows Nominal and Actual sizes of popular boards, timbers and dimension lumber (planed to a "stated" thickness).
MILLED lumber consists of boards formed (by milling) into various popular molded shapes. The accompanying charts show typical shapes in general use today. However, some shapes and sizes vary from time-totime and place-to-place according to "fashion" — and then, too, not every dealer stocks a full assortment. So
don't use the shapes shown ( page 78 ) for planning a project; first learn what is available at your lumber yard.
9. Boards (rough and surfaced) may be sold by the Board Foot or by the Lineal Foot. The rule has been to price all boards of 4x1/2 inches (nominal width and thickness) and larger by the board foot; all smaller boards by the lineal foot. However, the tendency today is toward sale of pre-sized lumber (the dealer cuts boards to your exact requirements), and this is always priced by the lineal foot. Timber is usually sold by the lineal foot; and moldings always are.
A BOARD FOOT is a square foot of lumber 1 inch thick. Hence, a piece 4 inches wide (1/3 of a foot) x 2 inches thick x 6 feet long will contain 1/3 x 2 x 6 = 4 board feet. The formula is: Width (feet) times thickness (inches) times length (feet), divided by 12. Popular sizes in board feet are given in the accompanying table.
BOARD FEET PER LINEAL FOOT
To find the board feet in a piece of lumber multiply the the correct "Factor" below by the actual length of the lumber.
| THICKNESS | WIDTH | FACTOR |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2 | 0.167 |
| 1 | 3 | 0.25 |
| 1 | 4 | 0.333 |
| 1 | 5 | 0.417 |
| 1 | 6 | 0.5 |
| Ĩ | 8 | 0.667 |
| 1 | 10 | 0.833 |
| 1 | 12 | 1.0 |
| 1-1/4 | 4 | 0.417 |
| 1-1/4 | 6 | 0.625 |
| 1-1/4 | 8 | 0.833 |
| 1-1/4 | 10 | 1.041 |
| 1-1/4 | 12 | 1.25 |
| 2 | 4 | 0.667 |
| 2 | 6 | 1.0 |
| 2 | 8 | 1.333 |
| 2 | 10 | 1.667 |
| 2 | 12 | 2.0 |
A LINEAL FOOT measurement refers to the real length of a board, measured in feet.
10. When buying lumber, always buy the smallest standard size that will serve your purpose. There is no economy in buying one 12 inch wide board to make two 6 inch wide ones. First the wider boards (being scarcer) cost relatively more: second, the dressed hoard isn't a full 12 inches to begin with - by the time you saw and re-dress it you'll have somewhat less than two 6 inch boards. Also extremely long boards - especially in the better grades - carry a premium price mark-up according to their length. Generally speaking, avoid purchasing better grade boards over 14 feet long with the intention of cutting them into shorter ones. Last, pre-sized lumber (cut to exact lineal foot measurements) is necessarily more expensive than buying standard mill lengths. Standard lengths (in lineal feet) start at 4 feet and increase 2 feet at a time (4, 6, 8, etc.) up to the longest length your dealer happens to stock.
11. Wood is called "green" before its original moisture content has left it - then it is called 'dried'. If it is later soaked it does not again become "green" - just wet. Green lumber will shrink, and often twist and/or warp while drying; and should therefore be avoided. Properly dried lumber is stacked carefully to minimize warpage, and is either "dried" in an open shed or in an oven (called a kiln). If you do get green lumber. lay it flat (preferably with some weight on it) to dry. This also applies to wet lumber - which, if it hasn't swelled out of shape due to the wetting, can be re-dried satisfactorily. A green board is considered sufficiently seasoned for average use when its moisture content has been reduced to 20%: but for cabinetwork your boards should have no more than 6 to 10% moisture content. You will soon learn - by the feel and cutting gual-
ity of a board — whether it is green or dried; and the proper degree of dryness.
12. All grading of lumber naturally depends upon some individual's estimate — and even experienced lumber graders do not agree. When purchasing much of a particular grade (especially if it is a higher grade), best first be certain that you understand your particular dealer's standards for the grade. In short, be sure you know what to expect — then you won't be disappointed.
13. A few dealers around the country specialize in rare woods — some from this continent, but mostly imported. These are, of course, relatively expensive, and therefore not practicable for use as structural material in cabinetwork, etc.; but their beautiful and distinctive colorings and grainings make some of them very desirable for special uses — for inlays and similar limited area decoration. We cannot here list the dealers who carry such woods; but if you are interested your own lumber dealer can probably help you locate one nearest to you.
14. The terms used to describe lumber defects are as follows:
KNOTS. The solid, woody rings formed where a branch joined the piece. Some knots are solid enough to stay in place — and add a decorative quality; most are not.
SPLIT. This is a long, large crack.
CHECK. A slight grainwise crack, usually at the end of a board.
WARP. A curve across the grain.
WIND. A twist from end-to-end.
SHAKE. A separation of the grain.
DECAY. A rotted area.
MOLD. A discoloring stain.
WORMHOLE. Any insect hole.
PLYWOOD
Plywood is made of thin "peelings" of wood bonded together to form large flat sheets that are stronger than comparable thickness sheets of plain available in thicknesses of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4 and 1 inch - and in sizes of 4x8 or 4x10 feet. Other sizes are available (as a rule) on special order. These large size sheets eliminate need of making the many joints ordinarily required when using lumber for a project. Furthermore. there is practically no shrinkage. expansion, or warpage to contend with; and - because the lavers ("plies") have the grains running in alternated directions - nlywood panels possess rigidity and strength in all directions. These sheets are therefore excellent for nearly all types of homecraft projects.
There are normally two types of plywood construction as recognized by the commercial standards agreed upon between the U.S. Department of Commerce and the hardwood-plywood manufacturers:
VENEER construction (the least expensive) consists of equal thickness plies throughout, with the outside plies having their grains running parallel to the length of the sheet. An odd number of plies is used ...3, 5, 7, etc., depending upon the thickness of the sheet.
LUMBER-CORE construction calls for a solid wood core enclosed between two thin (1/16 inch) layers, and faced with very thin (1/28 inch) facing plies. This center core is comparatively thick in the thicker sheets — which makes this construction more desirable for use in furniture or other projects using dowels and/or special wood joints.
Its strength is given to plywood by the bonding glues with which the plies are held together. These are of two types, with the result that there are two general types of plywood:
EXTERIOR plywood is made with 100% waterproof glue for outdoor use, or use wherever the plywood will be exposed to moisture.
INTERIOR plywood (less expensive) is bonded with a glue that is highly
moisture-resistant, but is not waterproof.
Plywood may be faced with a finish (selected) ply on one side only, or on both sides. Facings may be of any wood — and generally are of hardwood, or of some rare, imported wood. There are practically endless varieties, and, though the rarer wood facings naturally cost more, these plywoods are so much less costly than solid pieces of the rare woods would be, that they make it possible for many homecrafters to enjoy using woods that they otherwise could not afford.
Hardwood plywoods are graded for appearance, and priced according to grade. The following four grades apply:
GRADE 1 — Calls for good matched grain, with a pleasing effect suitable for fine furniture or paneling. Such defects as pin knots, burls and discolorations must be very limited.
GRADE 2 — Calls for good grain and surface, but unmatched. Such defects as filled worm holes and open joints not exceeding 1/64 inch — in addition to those allowed for in grade 1 are allowable.
GRADE 3 — Must be fairly sound, but may have open knots up to 3/8 inch, closed knots up to 3/4 inch, worm holes up to 1/8 inch, and minor splits.
GRADE 4 — Consists of rejects that may have any type or number of defects — so long as the sheet is sound enough for construction use.
The above grading may apply to one side only — or to both sides. Naturally, if both sides of a sheet must meet a No. 1 or 2 grade classification, this sheet will cost more than if only one side need meet such a classification. Dealers commonly stock sheets graded 1-1, 1-2, 1-3, 1-4, 2-3 and 2-4.
Plywoods are also available with special finishes, such as: embossed surface, brushed (striated) surface, textured and grooved surface, or fused, resin-bonded, ultra-smooth (wear-resistant) surface.
POPULAR WOOD - SIZES AND TYPES
DRESSED LUMBER
The accompanying chart shows popular homeshop dressed (surfaced four sides) lumber, together with the nominal and the average actual sizes (which may vary slightly in different areas). Nominal thicknesses and widths of boards (at left above) are shown down the center; actual widths are given above the respective boards; and the actual thicknesses are given in the side brackets. The "fivequarter" thickness boards are available in the same widths as the "3/4-inch" boards. Nominal and actual measurements of dimension lumber (at right above) are similarly shown. Only the actual sizes of timbers (at right) are shown; increase each fractional number to the next whole number for nominal size (that is: 1-5/8x2-5/8 - 2x3).
3-5/8 x 5-5/8 2-5/8 x 3-5/8 3-5/8 x 3-5/8 5-5/8 x 3-5/8 5-5/8 x 5-5/8 7-1/2 x 7-1/2
TIMBER
SIDINGS AND SHIPLAP
FLOORING AND CEILING
STANDARD SHIPLAP
Sidings are manufactured in a variety of shapes, some of the most popular of which are shown here. Lengths range from 4 to 20 feet, in multiples of 2 feet. As with boards, actual sizes are smaller than nominal sizes.
OTHER
CONSTRUCTION MATERIALS
There are a great variety of manufactured wood-pulp (hardboard), asbestos-pulp (fire-resistant and fireproof types) and purely synthetic building and cabinetwork materials (such as Tileboard) sold under the trade names of the manufacturers.
STANDARD CEILINGS
PLYWOOD AND WALLBOARD
We cannot list these here, but the average lumber dealer stocks all the varieties you will need.
These materials are sold, like plywood, in sheets — generally 4x8 size (though other sizes are available). Hardboard is usually the same throughout (with both surfaces the same); while the synthetic materials and the composition and asbestos boards generally have a single face with a "filler-type" backing. However, there are exceptions — and it is best to inquire before making plans for use of such material.
Hardboard is very solid, moistureresistant (some is moisture-proof) - and can be worked like wood, then painted or waxed (but not stained). It has no grain.
The synthetics generally have a special "advertised" finish with certain qualities (such as: stain-proof, fireproof, moisture-proof, acidproof, a hard gloss, a special graining, texture, color, etc.). While these vary in hardness, most can be sawed or otherwise "worked" in about the same manner as wood.
Composition and asbestos boards are usually very "pulpy" with little strength — are not intended for structural work, but only to be used for facing (or insulating) walls or ceilings, etc. They can be used for such purposes as false partitions if well supported, will take paint on the right side; but must be handled carefully when sawing, etc., to keep them from breaking or tearing.
FASTENERS
Glue
The use of a good glue greatly strengthens practically any type of cabinetwork, even though other fasteners are also used. And glue with "hidden" dowels is always used whenever screw or nail holes (even though filled and resurfaced) would be objectionable (as in hardwood cabinetwork that is to be stained). When properly selected and applied, glue constitutes the neatest, and one of the most durable and strongest of the fasteners.
Wood glues are either "hot" or "cold," depending upon whether or not heat is used to prepare them. The "hot" glues are made from animal parts, are very strong and quick setting. Until quite recently these were considered by cabinetmakers to be the only truly satisfactory types; but recent development of new and better "cold" glues makes any such generalization debatable now. The "cold" glues are all synthetics of one type
or another — and vary in durability and strength. Some are slow setting; while others make claim to being extremely fast setting — and will not only bond wood to wood, but also bond any number of other dissimilar materials to wood or to each other.
"Hot" glues generally are sold in dry sheets or flakes that are hard, brittle and transparent. These are to be mixed with water and heated for use, according to the manufacturer's directions. "Cold" glues may be sold in powder form, to be mixed according to directions, and then applied — or may be sold readymixed for immediate use. In all cases, the manufacturer's directions must be closely followed if the particular glue is to be used successfully.
Following are four types of glues presently in general use for cabinet work:
HIDE GLUE: Available in flakes to be mixed and heated; or in a prepared form as liquid hide glue, ready for use. Very strong — will even give strength to joints that do not fit too well; but is not waterproof (don't use for outdoor furniture, etc.). Light in color and easy to clean off, sand and finish over. Takes 3 hours to set after becoming tacky enough to clamp the joint.
UREA RESIN GLUE: Available as a powder to be cold mixed and used within four hours. Strong . if the joint fits well; and is almost waterproof (so that it is a good choice for work that must stand some exposure to moisture). Light colored and easy to clean off, sand and finish over; but must be applied at a room temperature of 70° or warmer, and takes 16 hours to set after clamping.
LIQUID RESIN (WHITE) GLUE: Comes ready mixed for immediate use at any room temperature. Strong enough for most work (especially if
joints are well fitted); but is not waterproof and should not be used for outdoor furniture, etc. Doesn't require as tight a clamping as other types. Light colored, easy to clean off, etc. Sets in 1-1/2 hours.
RESOR-CINOL (WATERPROOF) GLUE: Sold in the form of a powder plus a liquid which are to be mixed each time (in small quantities) for use within eight hours. Strong and 100% waterproof – for outdoor use – but troublesome to use and not recommended for projects which do not require its waterproof feature. Dark colored – which makes it difficult to clean off and cover over. Also more expensive than other types. Should be applied at a room temperature of 70o or warmer, and takes 16 hours to set after clamping.
Wood Screws
Wood screws, though more trouble to use than nails, are preferable to nails for most cabinetwork. With a little care they make a neater joint and neater appearance: will 'draw'' a joint tighter - and hold better and longer. They are sold in sizes measured according to diameter and length Lengths are stated in inches and/or fractions thereof: diameters are stated by code numbers, the smallest being "No. 0" and the largest you are likely to use being "No. 24." Common sizes and types are shown on the chart in this chapter. Flathead types are measured (for length) from tip to top of head: oval-head types are measured from tip to the edge of the head: and the round- and fillister-head types are measured from the tip to the underside of the head.
The flathead type is most often used for cabinetwork — as it can be countersunk and puttied over to hide the head. If used with hardware, the hardware holes must be countersunk on top and the screw size must be
exactly chosen to fit the holes — so that the heads will "sink" to perfect flatness. Other types can also be countersunk, but are generally used with the heads exposed in applications where this is not objectionable (or even desirable).
Standard wood screws have a single. straight-across screwdriver slot (for a standard blade screwdriver). These are the commonest kind. Phillipshead screws have a crossed slot which requires a Phillips screwdriver to fit into the slots. Because this kind of screwdriver does not overhang the screw head edges and will stay perfectly centered in the head during use, many cabinetmakers prefer these screws (as being less likely to damage a workpiece surface during application from "slippage" of the screwdriver). This is especially true when plywood is used as the thin ply edges around a screw hole are subject to easy damage.
Remember, screws can be removed easily; nails cannot be.
Nails
The charts accompanying this chapter show the lengths, diameter and head sizes of the various types of nails in general use for cabinet and other woodworking projects.
Nails (common and finishing) are sold by the pound and are offered in sizes (2d, 3d, etc.) from smallest to largest (60d for common nails). Their wire gage sizes (diameters) run in reverse order (15 for 2d to 2 for 60d).
Nails must be carefully selected to be the right size for a particular application. First, consider the type. Finishing nails may be driven below the top wood surface and covered over to be hidden; while common nails and the other types are not used in this manner. Next, consider the diameter. A nail that is thin enough not to dam-
| - | ||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| SHANK HOLE | 1/16 | 5/64 | 3/32 | 7/64 | 7/64 | 1/8 | 9/64 | 5/32 | 11/64 | 3/16 | 3/16 | 13/64 | 7/32 | 1/4 | 17/64 | 19/64 | 21/64 | 3/8 |
|
PILOT HOLE
HARD WOOD |
1/64 | 1/32 | 1/32 | 3/64 | 3/64 | 1/16 | 1/16 | 1/16 | 5/64 | 5/64 | 3/32 | 3/32 | 7/64 | 7/64 | 9/64 | 9/64 | 11/64 | 3/16 |
|
PILOT HOLE
SOFT WOOD |
1/32 | 1/32 | 3/64 | 1/16 | 1/16 | 5/64 | 5/64 | 3/32 | 3/32 | 7/64 | 7/64 | 1/8 | 1/8 | 9/64 | 5/32 | 3/16 | 13/64 | 7/32 |
|
AUGER BIT
SIZES FOR COUNTERSUNK |
3 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 6 | 7 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 |
HOW TO MEASURE
Screw length should be at least 1/8" less than the combined measurement of material being joined.
SPIKES
SPECIAL PURPOSE NAILS
REFERENCE TABLE - COMMON NAILS
| SIZE | LENGTH and GAGE |
DIA.
HEAD |
APPROX. NO.
TO POUND |
|---|---|---|---|
| 2d | 1 inchNo. 15 | 11/64 | 845 |
| 3d | 1-1/4 inch No. 14 | 13/64 | 540 |
| 4d | 1-1/2 inch No. 12-1/2 | 1/4 | 290 |
| 5d | 1-3/4 inch No. 12-1/2 | 1/4 | 250 |
| 6d | 2 inchNo. 11-1/2 | 17/64 | 165 |
| 7d | 2-1/4 inch No. 11-1/2 | 17/64 | 150 |
| 8d | 2-1/2 inch No. 10-1/4 | 9/32 | 100 |
| 9d | 2-3/4 inch No. 10-1/4 | 9./32 | 90 |
| 10d | 3 inch No. 9 | 5/16 | 65 |
| 12d | 3-1/4 inch No. 9 | 5/16 | 60 |
| 16d | 3-1/2 inch No. 8 | 11/32 | 45 |
| 20d | 4 inch No. 6 | 13/32 | 30 |
| 30d | 4-1/2 inch No. 5 | 7/16 | 20 |
| 40d | 5 inch No. 4 | 15/32 | 17 |
| 50d | 5-1/2 inch No. 3 | 1/2 | 13 |
| 60d | 6 inch No. 2 | 17/32 | 10 |
NAIL DIAMETER 1 TO 20 GAGE
USE A DRILL SMALLER THAN NAIL DIAMETER
O 12 13 18 20
REFERENCE TABLE - FINISHING NAILS
| SIZE | LENGTH and GAGE |
DIA.
HEAD |
APPROX. NO.
TO POUND |
|---|---|---|---|
| 3d | 1-1/4 inch No. 15-1/2 | 12-1/2 | 880 |
| 4d | 1-1/2 inch No. 15 | 12 | 630 |
| 6d | 2 inch No. 13 | 10 | 290 |
| 8d | 2-1/2 inch No. 12-1/2 | 9-1/2 | 195 |
| 10d | 3 inchNo. 11-1/2 | 8-1/2 | 125 |
RUST-PROOF NAILS
REFERENCE TABLE - CASING NAILS
| SIZE | LENGTH and GAGE |
DIA.
HEAD |
APPROX. NO.
TO POUND |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4d | 1-1/2 inch No. 14 | 11 | 490 |
| 6d | 2 inchNo. 12-1/2 | 9-1/2 | 245 |
| 8d | 2-1/2 inch No. 11-1/2 | 8-1/2 | 145 |
| 10d | 3 inchNo. 10-1/2 | 7-1/2 | 95 |
| 16d | 3-1/2 inch No. 10 | 7 | 72 |
age the wood fiber unnecessarily will hold better than one so big that it distorts the grain structure. Last, consider the length. To properly hold, a nail should penetrate approximately 2/3 to 3/4 of the way into the second piece of wood. Less than 2/3 will make a weak joint — and "all the way through" does not improve the holding strength (unless the end is to be bent over) while it does raise the problem of what to do about the protruding end.
The corrugated fasteners have a special use — the joining of two boards side-by-side with a plain butt joint. If properly used, they create a strong joint; but cannot be hidden by covering over with any degree of success. This also applies to clamp nails, which are generally used only for miter joints.
Brads, tacks and the "little" thin (wire) nails and other special types are generally sold "so-many in a box." These all have special uses but differ little in application from the common and finishing nails.
HARDWARE
There is such an infinite variety of hardware (hinges, catches, knobs, drawer pulls, etc.) available today that it is impracticable to attempt to cover this subject here. Best "survey the market" and select hardware that will meet your requirements before planning its use in any project. The average dealer can show you many types and special application varieties (many as new as "yesterday").
On the whole, hinges will probably be your most troublesome item simply because there are so many kinds. There are the common (butt) hinges — with which doors are usually hung — that are more or less fully visible . and which are available for mortised or surface mount-
ing, with square, rounded or elongated and/or specially shaped leaves. There are also "concealed" types (which are not wholly invisible) and "invisible" types (which are invisible when the door is closed). There are also cabinet types, made with one or both leaves offset to fit into a rabbeted edge, etc. Then there are strap types, which cross over from one face of the door itself. And, again, some hinges have loose pins (for separation of the leaves for mounting), while others have fixed pins.
Catches, handles, pulls, etc. also come in a large variety of sizes, shapes, kinds, and materials.
When buying any hardware you will probably first consider price; but don't let this weigh too heavily in your decision. "Cheap" hardware is seldom worth its cost — especially if you take your own time and trouble into consideration. It will tarnish and/or rust quickly — especially if exposed to the elements — may be of inferior strength and durability. And nothing can spoil the appearance of an otherwise beautifully executed project faster than hardware which becomes "shabby".
Be particularly cautious when purchasing chrome or nickle plated hardware. Unless the plating is done with proper "undercoats" and thickly enough, it will not last — will rust through quickly out-of-doors. Also be critical of brass — to be sure it is brass; and of the pot (white) metal hardware (which may be too weak for the purpose intended). Hardware made of aluminum and the other newer metals and plastic materials is well worth your consideration — has many desirable qualities.
PLASTICS
There is a large variety of plastic material generally available (in hobby
or specialty shops) in a multitude of molded, rolled or extruded shapes intended both for commercial and craftwork uses. We do not have space here for more than a brief mention of the uses of these plastics.
All plastics are either thermosetting or thermoplastic. Those in the thermosetting group (Bakelite, Catalin, Marblette — to name a few) can be worked in much the same manner as wood — except that they will crack or flake-off readily if too large a cutting bite is attempted. Those in the thermoplastic classification (Lucite and Plexiglas are typical examples) can be softened by the proper amount of heat and/or pressure, in which respect they do differ from wood and must be worked with their heat limitations in mind.
In general, the harder the plastic the finer-toothed the cutting tool should be. Any operation done on a thermoplastic material should be accomplished so as not to heat the material to its pliable state. For instance, when sawing or drilling don't allow the blade or bit to revolve in one spot until the plastic starts to melt . keep it moving forward, or stop the operation and cool the plastic before continuing. Special caution must be used when buffing or polishing such materials.
Cements of various kinds are used for bonding the different plastics. The proper type — with instructions for use — can be obtained from your plastics supplier.
DO-IT-YOURSELF
This particular type of aluminum is now available in sheets, bars, tubing and a limited number of special shapes (such as screen beading, threshhold plates, etc.). Though harder and more durable than wood it is still considerably softer than tool steel. It can be sawed with a wood-cutting blade, or can be ground or filed like other, harder metals. For drilling, a metal twist drill should be used. For shaping, it is best to power sand or hand file it.
IN CONCLUSION
Sears offers you a very complete selection of lumber, plywood and other building materials (Building Materials Department) — and of nails, screws, hardware and the tools required for their application (Hardware Department). In buying from Sears you are protected by Sears famous guarantee backed by Sears famous guarantee backed by Sears nation-wide sales and service organization. We recommend our merchandise and our service to you for your own complete satisfaction.
Use the best — the difference in cost is slight compared to the value of your efforts!
BUY AT SEARS
FOR QUALITY AND ECONOMY
WOODWORKING TECHNIQUES
LAYOUT METHODS
Before any work is done, it is best to draft some definite plan — whether this be a detailed blueprint, or simply a rough, dimensioned sketch of the project to be made. After the plan is prepared, you can then transfer appropriate dimensions to, and make guide lines upon your workpieces. But knowing, first, exactly how the piece will fit together will save you much time and material.
We cannot, in this brief space, give you any instructions for drafting plans. The accuracy and completeness of your plans will depend entirely upon how careful a workman you are — and upon how well you can visualize each detail of a finished project while it is still in the planning stage. Typical plans are shown in our project section, Chapter 12 . However, the following ideas for converting plans into markings on the workpiece will help you with this phase of your work. The typical layout instruments used are shown here.
MARKING AND SCRIBING
Wood is most easily and plainly marked with a flat carpenter's pencil
or a scratch awl. Preferably keep all lines thin (to avoid the inaccuracy of a varying thickness line), and do marking for a saw cut so that you can saw along one side of the line and the saw kerf will be in the waste material (rather than in or partly in the piece to be used). Use the combination square to mark a line parallel to an edge, or to draw a line at a right angle to an edge.
CENTERLINING
To approximate the centerline between two parallel edges, use the combination square to mark two lines, equidistant from the two edges and fairly close together. You can now "spot" the center between these two lines with your eve. If extreme
accuracy is required, take a measurement of the total distance between the two edges and divide this in half to locate the centerline.
CENTERING RECTANGULAR WORK AND POLYGONS
The exact center point of a perfectly square or rectangular piece can be quickly located by drawing two diagonal lines between opposite corners. These will cross at the center. If opposite sides are not exactly parallel, the approximate center can be found by using the combination square to draw lines equidistant from each of the four sides and fairly close together. You can now "spot" the center visually at the center of these four lines. In fact, this latter method will serve for centering five, six, etc. sided workpieces.
Use the V-shaped center head on the combination square, and encircle the round work with this "V". Scribe a line along the inner edge of the blade. This line will be a diameter of the circular end of the work. Rotate the center head approximately 900 and scribe a second diameter. The center is where the two diameters cross.
Out-of-round work also can be centered by using the V-head on the combination square. Draw a number of "diameters" as above — then visually locate the spot at the center of the many-sided shape they create.
LOCATING HOLES
Accurate dimensions can be transferred from your plan or blueprint to a workpiece by use of dividers or a surface gage. Hermaphrodite calipers are useful when measuring in from the edge of a workpiece; while inside and outside calipers are used to take dimensions between lines or surfaces requiring inside or outside points of contact, respectively. If working to written dimensions rather than to a scaled plan, for accuracy do not use your ruler directly on the workpiece; instead transfer dimensions from the ruler to the workpiece with one of the above instruments.
Best practice is to mark all holes prior to beginning work — as this saves time and increases over-all accuracy. While a pencil dot (or crossed lines) will locate the center of a hole, it will speed drilling if you also lightly center punch each hole for centering of the drill bit.
LOCATING DOWEL HOLES
With proper care in layout, it is possible to line up dowel holes in
adjoining pieces of wood with great accuracy. When the work is an edge-to-edge joint, the simple and rapid method illustrated can be used. Both workpieces are first finished square all over — then laid face-toface. With a combination square, draw lines across the edges to be joined at the points where the dowels are to be. Next, centerline each workpiece edge, accurately. Drill your dowel holes where the cross lines cross the centerlines.
For other types of joints there are two easy methods of locating the dowels accurately. 1) Locate your dowel holes in one workpiece. Take brads and cut off the heads - then insert these (blunt ends down) into this workpiece at the dowel-hole centers. Accurately position the second workpiece against the first, and press them together so that the sharp ends of the brads leave prick points to locate the dowel holes in the second workpiece. Remove the brads - and drill all holes as now marked. 2) The same as "1". except that the first dowel holes are drilled at once - and dowel pops (illustrated) are used in place of brads to locate the second set of dowel holes.
Still another method is to use a template — of cardboard, tin or any suitable material. Make it so that it can be positioned accurately on each workpiece. Use a scratch awl to transfer the hole marks to the workpieces, through the guide marks (or holes) in the template.
LOCATING HOLES OR POINTS ON IRREGULAR SURFACES
The measurement of straight-line distances on an irregularly shaped surface is done easily with a surface gage. With the gageon a flat surface, set a combination square on end with
the scale standing upright alongside of the gage. Adjust the gage until its scriber point touches the scale at a height equal to the measurement desired. Now set the workpiece adjacent to the gage with the surface to be marked vertical and facing the gage — and scribe your mark on it with the pre-set scriber point. By similarly measuring other distances up from the bottom workpiece edge, any number of points with desired distances between can be located.
SEQUENCE OF STEPS FOR A PROJECT
The easiest way to "handle" any project is to "plan it through" so that you can do all like operations with your Radial-Arm Saw at one time. This type of planning necessitates the laying-out of each workpiece, before operations (other than sawing) are started.
Since you will probably start with boards which require cutting up into the final size, start by marking off your sawing dimensions on the various boards — then cut them all to "rough" size. "Rough" size depends upon the operation remaining to be done on each piece. If sanding is the only remaining operation, "rough" size should be a little larger than final size to
leave only a minute amount of overage for finish sanding (the amount depending upon the depth of the imperfections to be sanded off). If edge shaping on a joint is to be formed along an edge, "rough" size should be to exact enough dimensions so that it will not be neessary to further reduce the size during the following operation. In all cases, if the wood cannot be rough cut to leave the pieces perfectly "squared" and as smooth as a planing operation would leave them, then 'rough' cut to an oversize which will permit subsequent planing and squaring.
After "rough" cutting, square and plane all workpieces requiring this.
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