Sears | Craftsman 9-2938 Radial Arm Saws - Sears Craftsman Instruction Guides

THIS BOOK COVERS SET-UPS AND OPERATIONS FOR ALL CRAFTSMAN

RADIAL ARM SAWS. THE 10" SAW IS USED FOR MOST ILLUSTRATIONS.

PRINTED IN U.S.A. FORM 3064

C R AFT SMA N

CRAFTSMAN RADIAL ARM TOOL

“ KNOWHOW”

may not be used for dramatic, motion-,

or talking picture purposes without writ ten consent of the copyright holder. Nor may this book or any part thereof be reproduced in any manner whatsoever without permission in writing from the

copyright holder, excepting cases in which brief quotations may be embodied in critical articles and reviews.

For information, address Legal Depart ment 766, Sears, Roebuck and Co., Homan and Arthington Aves., Chicago 7, Illinois.

SEARS, RO EB U CK AND CO.

SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED

Chapter Page

1— Know Your Radial Arm Saw . . 5

2— Preparing To Saw

.................

10

3— Standard Sawing Operation . . 14

4— D a doing

..............................

24 5— Special Sawing Techniques . . 34 6— Shaping, Jointing and

Pla nnin g.....................................45

7— Routing and D rilling

8— Sanding

9— Wood J o in ts

10— Special U se s

..............................

.......................

.........................

..........

55

64 68 78

11— Assembly and Adjusting Saw . 80 12— Projects

13— Fasteners

................................

..............................

88

100

3

Sears

CRRFTSMRN

INTRODUCTION: CRAFTSMANSHIP

Your Radial Arm Saw is truly a ver satile tool. The standard tool, along with each of the available attach ments constitutes nearly a complete workshop.

This tool is designed and engineered with simplicity in mind ... to make wood working easier and quicker for you, to broaden the scope of projects you can attempt and to develop your skills as a craftsman.

It is your key to many hours of enjoy

ment and accomplishment.

WHAT IS A RADIAL ARM SAW?

A radial arm saw is a motor-saw

blade assembly that rolls on bearings

along an arm over the saw table. The arm can be moved radially thru a 360° arc permitting you to make

miter cuts of any angle. The arm

(and saw) can be raised or lowered

by means of a crank operating thru the main column so the depth of cut

can be adjusted.

The motor is mounted in a yoke

assembly which can be pivoted through 360° to permit rip cutting

or tilted to permit bevel cutting.

10" (ACCRA-ARM) SAW OPERATION PARTS

SWIVEL LATCH KNOB

REAR TABLE FRONT TABLE

VIEW OF SAW FROM BLADE SIDE

SAFE LOCK SWITCH

The motor develops better than 2

horsepower and is equipped with sealed-in ball bearings which require no additional lubrication. This power unit drives all various cutting tools.

THE BLADE SHAFT END has a 5/8" diameter x 16 thread, two blade col

lars and hex nut. THE ACCESSORY SHAFT END has

1/2" diameter x 20 thread with pro

tection cap. THE SAW GUARD reduces the

amount of blade exposed for safety and is equipped with a sawdust dis charge elbow and anti-kick back

pawls. THE SAFE-LOCK SWITCH with

removable key prevents accidental starting and unauthorized use of the tool.

THE WORK TABLE consists of four pieces. The front table is bolted to the two steel supporting channels. The remainder of “the table pieces can be arranged several ways de pending on the type of work being done. They rest on the channels and are secured with the table clamps. Leveling the table by means of the

adjusting screws is described in the

instruction sheet furnished with the tool.

5

The convenient front elevating crank

raises or lowers the power unit to adjust the depth of cut. Each revolu tion of the handle adjusts the depth

1/8", each half turn adjusts the depth 1/16". Maximum travel is 8 1/8". Crank and front of column are coded blue.

The radial arm may be rotated 360° and automatically indexes to 45° and 90° — loosen latch knob % turn, disengage latch knob release, rotate arm to desired miter angle. Tighten arm latch knob.

A -L A T C H KNOB

B - LATCH KNOB RELEASE

ELEVATING CRANK

C -R A D IA L ARM

The carriage lock knob locks the

power unit carriage anywhere along the arm. During a ripping operation, the carriage is adjusted to the

desired distance from the fence by

means of the dimensioned rip scale,

and locked in that position. During

a crosscut operation, of course, the carriage must be unlocked.

6

IN /OU T RIP SCALE

231

SWIVEL LATCH & CARRIAGE YOKE CLAMP

The power unit, with saw blade and

guard attached may be tilted from 0° (blade vertical) to 90° (blade hori

zontal). To tilt, loosen bevel lock knob A, lift bevel index pin B, tilt unit.

The index pin will automatically stop the rotation at 0°, 45°, and 90°. Tighten bevel lock knob securely.

With the blade and guard removed,

the power unit may be pivoted 180°

in either direction from the 0°

position.

The bevel lock knob, index pin, and

pointed are color coded yellow. The yoke C supporting the power unit

is swivel mounted. It may be swiveled thru 360°, however for convenience the swivel latch E is provided to automatically index the yoke at 0°, 45°, and 90°. To swivel, loosen yoke clamp D, (pull toward you) lift swivel latch E, swivel yoke to desired posi tion. Then tighten yoke clamp (push away from you).

Always be sure to tighten yoke clamp to eliminate play required for

swiveling.

Note that yoke, yoke clamp and swivel latch are all color coded

orange.

7

BASIC TOOL

POSITIONS

Arrow indicates

direction of feed

for ripping operations.

VERTICAL CROSSCUT

BEVEL CROSSCUT

COMPOUND MITER CROSSCUT

8

MITER CROSSCUT

HORZONTAL CROSSCUT

VERTICAL IN-RIP

BEVEL IN-RIP

HORIZONTAL IN-RIP

BEVEL OUT-RIP

VERTICAL OUT-RIP

VERTICAL ROUTING

HARDBOARD WOOD LAMINATED TABLE

Many operations on your radial arm

tool require that the blade cuts the table. This table is made of lam

inated hardboard. With a little care

and no unnecessary grooves, the top will stay looking fine. Many crafts man prefer to cover the top with a sheet of 1/i" plywood or hardboard. Just tack along the edges and on 6" centers.

You may wish to pre-groove the table. Many cuts will be made at settings of 0° and 45°. Shallow Ms" deep grooves at these locations will help you locate the stock. To make the first cut at 0° (straight crosscut) start the saw and lower it Vu" into the top. Pull all the way forward. Rotate arm to the right 45° and make another ‘/is" deep groove. Return the arm to the straight cross cut position, rotate the yoke to in rip position (blade parallel to the fence). Move carriage back so that blade is nearly touching fence. Start the saw

and slowly lower blade Me" into table. Slowly pull carriage out toward the end of the arm. Turn off saw, raise blade, rotate yoke 180°, lower blade again and continue through the com plete width of the table. This rip trough will provide blade clearance for all your rip cuts.

AT 0° AND 4 5° POSITIONING

ROM CROSSCUT TO RIP

make changing the saw from crosscut to rip ition as easy as possible you will need a

radius kerf connecting the crosscut kerf with

. Jie rip trough. Pull the saw all the way to the

front of the arm and lock carriage. Loosen the

-* -y k e clamp, start the saw and raise the swivel “"^ tc h knob. Now, rotate the yoke 90° clockwise

— Jto the in-rip position. Shut off motor.

Before you start using your new saw read and memorize the following safety rules.

FLOATING RINGS

A valuable accessory is the floating rings blade guard.

Although it has been generally omitted from

photographs for reasons of clarity its use is recommended.

1. Protect your eyes. Use goggles or a

face shield.

2. Dress properly. Remove necktie, roll up your sleeves. Don't wear loose clothing.

3. Use proper electrical connections. Be sure correct voltage is used along with a ground wire. Use an adapter plug if necessary.

4. Have safe footing and enough room to work. Keep litter off the floor. Plan before

you saw so you won’t bump the work

against anything.

5. Watch you hands. Anticipate each cut before you turn on the switch.

6. Use saw guards and anti kickback fingers.

7. Be sure all adjustment knobs are tight

before starting to saw.

8. Never do other work on saw table while motor is running.

9. Never leave tool running unattended.

10. Don't abuse the tool. Work should not be forced. The saw table should not be used as a workbench. Keep cutters sharp.

11. Don’t talk to others while sawing.

Distraction may cause an error or even

worse an injury to you or a spectator.

12. Remove key and unplug saw when not

in use.

13. Disconnect input cable from power supply when adjusting saw from one work ing position to another.

SAW

BLADES

KROMEOCE

Chisel Tooth

HOW TO CHOOSE YOUR BLADES

1. FREE CUT TYPE.

This blade usually has only 8 or 10 teeth. The m ost com m on is the carbide tooth blade with the teeth welded to the blade. It cuts a w ider kerf than standard blades, crosscuts

or rips hardwoods, tends to chew soft woods.

Cuts aluminum, form ica, masonite and plas tics. It keeps its edge up to 20 times longer than a steel blade.

2. HOLLOW GROUND TYPE.

This blade has no set in the tooth area. To

provide tooth clearance, the center of the

blade inside the teeth is ground away to give tooth clearance. It gives a very smooth cut

and is used for fine cabinet work.

rr^rr^

Free-Smooth Cut

Combination

3. FLAT GROUND SET TOOTH TYPE.

This blade has "set” to the teeth to provide blade clearance. It comes in many special patterns—crosscut, rip, nail cutting, etc.

You new radial arm saw comes equipped with a Craftsman Chisel-tooth Combination Blade which will crosscut or rip equally well. There are, however, many special types of blades for special jobs.

CARE OF THE BLADES

A good blade is sharp and clean. A blade th a t has lost its set will tend to pull to one side. A gum m y or rusty blade w ill burn itself and the wood and tend to bind. A poor blade

is such a lia bility to the w ork and the oper ator it should not be used. Dull blades, if sound, can be re-sharpened many times. It is well worth the sm all cost involved.

Cabinet Combination

Thin Rim-Satin

Cut Combination Free Cut Combination

Three methods of pro viding blade clearance

in kerf.

Steel Slicer

Thin Rim Satin

Cut Veneer

CHANGING BLADES:

First, unplug the saw. Remove the guard.

Remove the shaft nut with the arbor wrench while holding the shaft stationary with the sh aft wrench. This shaft has a left hand thread.

Be sure to install the new blade with the teeth on the bottom pointing toward the

column when the blade is on the left. Always use the two shaft collars with their flats against the blade. Get in the habit of always changing the blade with the blade on the left and bottom teeth pointing back toward the column. Different blade thicknesses will re quire a slight change in the in-rip and out-rip

pointers.

CROSSCUT

A crosscut is made by pulling the

carriage and blade through a sta

tionary piece of wood.

A rip cut is made with the carriage

and blade stationary and parallel to

the rip fence. The wood is fed to the blade along the rip fence.

14

YOUR DECISION SHOULD BE:

In which position can I firmly support and safely hold the wood— rip or crosscut?

COMPOUND

CROSSCUT

MITER

CROSSCUT

BEVEL

CROSSCUT

BEVEL EDGE CUT

STRAIGHT EDGE CUT

STRAIGHT END CUT

STRAIGHT

CROSSCUT

BEVEL

END CUT

BEVEL RIP CUT

STRAIGHT

RIP CUT

Various cuts made with tool in the crosscut or rip position.

/

16

GUARD SETTING

The guard should always be tilted back so the back edge clears the wood by V4 to y2"- It permits you to see the blade at all times. During the crosscut the anti-kick back fingers are adjusted to clear the wood and therefore serve only as a guard.

CROSSCUTTING:

The pull-through stroke is the pre ferred method of accomplishing a

cut in the crosscut position. NOTE IN DIAGRAM: during the cut

off, the thrust created by the rotating blade helps to hold the wood down against the table and back against the fence.

STRAIGHT CROSSCUT

Left handed persons normally stand to the right of the saw. Support wood against the fence with the right

hand. Pull the carriage thru with the left hand. Right handed persons re

verse procedure.

BEVEL CROSSCUT

Bevel crosscuts are made like regular

crosscuts except that the saw is tilted within the yoke of the desired

angle. The blade may be more

exposed during a bevel cut so be

doubly vigilant.

17

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■

18

MITER CROSSCUT

To make miter cuts swing the arm to the desired angle indicated by the

pointer and scale at the top of the

column. When setting the saw for miter cross

cut be sure to swivel the arm, not the yoke.

Keep your hand, holding the wood, approximately 12" away from the blade. Never take a chance; even with a small piece of wood, don't place your hand closer than 3".

COMPOUND CROSSCUT

This cut is known by various names: compound miter, double miter, dou ble angle, possibly others. This cut really demonstrates the superiority of your radial arm saw. Compound cuts on a table saw can be quite difficult.

First set the arm for the desired

miter then tilt the blade for the bevel.

Remember, keep both hands in sight, keep your eye on the blade. Support the wood firmly and comfortably. Never use an awkward position.

On page 70 you will find a com pound angle graph and a description of its use.

CROSSCUTTING UNUSUALLY SIZED WOOD

A long board: One of the radial arm tool’s real advantages will be obvious

to you in this task. Since the wood

is held stationary in a crosscut, it

is simple and safe to make this cut.

As in any crosscut, you must sup

port the work firmly. If the board is extra long and overhangs the table so far that it would be out of balance when cut— provide a stationary sup

port under the overhanging end.

A WIDE BOARD:

With fence in front position boards

up to 13%" wide may be cut with a straight crosscut in one stroke. By moving the fence to the rear position, you can cut boards 18%'' wide. It is possible to cut boards even wider than 18%" by making two cuts.

First, make one cut, rotate the wood

180° (same face-up), and carefully align the wood for the second cut.

AN EXTRA THICK BOARD:

Your saw will cut boards up to 2%''

thick in one stroke. A 5" thick board

may be cut by turning the board over and making a second cut.

BASIC IN-RIP POSITION

The yoke is swiveled from the cross cut position to bring the blade paral lel to the rip fence. Make sure the yoke clamp handle and the carriage lock are tight.

IN-RIP POSITION

Determine the width of cut you must make. Use the rip fence in the normal position to accommodate a

cut up to 15%" wide.

20

OUT-RIP POSITION

It is possible to make cuts up to

25% " wide by swiveling the blade

180° so that it faces out. This is

called “out-rip”. Use caution in this

position.The blade is now near you. Put fence in rearmost position.

When fence is in front position the in-rip scale should be adjusted to

read the same as the distance from

the back side of the blade to the fence.

Adjust the blade height so that teeth just clear bottom of rip trough (see

rip trough page 10). Adjust the guard to l/A" above wood. Adjust the anti-kick back pawls (% "

below surface of wood).

USE CAUTION:

All ripping, with blade in the “In-Rip”

position is done from the right side.

With the blade in the “Out-Rip” posi tion, feed the wood from the left side of the saw. Always check the

“Caution” sticker on the guard as

a reminder.

Feed wood to blade steadily, as rap

idly as blade will cut. Be certain that wood slides smoothly along rip fence.

A push stick can be used to hold wood firmly against fence.

NEVER TRY TO RIP A BOARD WITH AN UNEVEN EDGE AGAINST THE RIP FENCE. TO MAKE A STRAIGHT CUT ON AN UNEVEN BOARD USE A STRAIGHT EDGED GUIDE BOARD CLAMPED TO YOUR WOOD.

EXTRA LONG BOARDS

The long boards do not present a difficult problem. The extra length

requires a firm support so that the end will not see saw during the cut. A sawhorse will do the job but a

handy accessory is a roller top sup

port (see page 88 “Easy to Make

Helpers”). With very long boards, there is a

tendency for the saw kerf to close

up behind the blade and bind it. A good safety precaution is a small wood wedge.

STRAIGHT EDGE CUT (NARROW BOARD)

You can easily make this cut on a

relatively narrow board by standing it

on edge and make a normal rip cut.

It is helpful to substitute taller fence (about V2 as tall as the wood to be cut) to guide the board on its edge.

Another helper is a straight edge

board clamped to the table. Slide the

wood between this and the fence.

STRAIGHT EDGE CUT (WIDE BOARDS)

With a wide board the stand up

method is not practical; instead, lay the wood flat on the table, set up the arm and motor, as shown, with

blade horizontal. Replace the stand

ard fence with auxiliary fences.

Set up the blade so that it protrudes through the fence the desired depth

of your edge cut.

Move the “anti-kick” pawls out of the way. They are not used in

this cut.

CROSS CUT DADO

The dado set is one of the most

useful accessories available for your radial arm tool. It is designed to allow you to simply produce wide grooves and is particularly useful for making many types of joints.

24

DADO

TONGUE

ANGLE

DADO

EDGE

GROOVE

SURFACE

GROOVE

NOTCH

SLOT

EDGE RABBET

V GROOVE

/

BLIND

GROOVE

END RABBET

TENON

2

DADO ASSEMBLY

The dado head is an assembly con sisting of two outside blades, six chipper blades and paper shim washers. (Craftsman 8" Kromedge Dado Set Catalog #9-3247).

DADO HEAD

Each blade is Vis" thick; used in vari ous combinations, you can make cuts ranging from V4 " up to The Vn" paper shim washers are provided to

give fine width adjustment. Never

build thickness greater than 1". Out side blades may be used alone or in combination— chipper blades, how ever, must never be used without the outside blades. Omit outside collar

when thickness is or over.

INSIDE BLADE ON SHAFT

Stagger chipper blades evenly around the circumference of the outer blades to balance the assembly. Be certain that the chipper blades are centered

in the spaces, between the teeth of the outside blade and are nested

properly before tightening nut se curely. Outside blades cut slightly deeper than the chippers for glue

relief.

26

WHAT IS DADOING?

Dadoing is mainly a sawingoperation, but remember these differences. The wider cut removes more wood. Slow down your feed pressure. Do not rush the cut and jam the saw. It is a good practice to make the first cut a shal low one and then increase it to the desired depth.

PLAIN DADO

A slot across the grain of the wood. In normal pull-through crosscut

operation, there is a tendency for the

head to attempt to climb.

STOPPED DADO

A stopped dado is sometimes used where the slot needs to be concealed as for instance the uprights of book shelves.

2

PLOUGH

A slot made with the grain of the wood. This tool is set up in ripping position, arm lowered to set cutter

to desired depth. Feed wood slowly.

Extra wide dadoes and grooves (wider than % ") are made by mak

ing more passes.

STOPPED DADO

A slot that stops short of the edge

of a board. If you need a square end slot, the radius may be removed by hand with a chisel.

28

PLOUGH DADO

A slot that runs with the grain and is stopped short of one or both ends of the wood. Use a stop block on table to limit length of groove.

RABBET

May be made in the end of the board in the crosscut position or may be made on the edge of a board in a rip position.

COMPLETED TENON

USE SPACERS WITH CHIPPERS TO MAKE TENON CUT

SIMPLE TENON

This is a double rabbet useful to join two pieces of wood. Four cuts will

make a blind tenon.

29

HORIZONTAL POSITION

The dado head, just like a saw blade,

may be used in the horizontal posi tion. You may find it easier to do some of the operations previously described by this method.

A simple fence will make horizontal grooving easier and safer.

Cutting a groove in horizontal posi tion. Set cutter to protrude beyond

special fence to the depth of the

groove you want to cut. With the use of simple blocks fastened to table, you can rabbet a circular piece of wood.

30

Circular rabbet with V Block helper. Decorative cuts may be made b

overlapping grooves and dados.

LATTICE DADO

31

DADO JOINTING

32

DECORATIVE DADO TRIM

ti H M i l §

3:

B

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c

f l

e

m

E E

This chapter is devoted to the more g

unsual tasks that you can accomplish

with a blade, a dado head or molding ^

cutter.

Now that you have used the Radial B Arm Tool, you will find these pro

cedures simple. Some of the opera- B

tions such as grooving and coving can

be accomplished easier with a dado B

head or molding cutter.

34

WOOD BENDS By cutting multiple kerfs evenly

spaced in the back of a piece of

wood, you can make smooth bends.

GROOVING

By adjusting the blade depth to less than the thickness of the wood, you can cut a groove the thickness of the blade, and cuting again, you widen the groove.

Each kerf should penetrate the wood

to the same depth, approximately

1/16" from the uncut side.

3

Sharp bends require closer kerf spac

ing than gradual bends. To determine spacing, cut a sample kerf. Mark off a point from the kerf, equal to your desired radius. Lift up wood to close kerf. Measure the distance from a flat surface, and you will have your

approximate “ kerf spacing” .

Clamp curved wood and fill spaces with glue and allow to dry. Later these spaces may be filled for a finished

look.

36

CHAMFERING

A chamfer is a bevel cut that is made across the end or along the edge of a board.

The chamfer differs from the bevel

since only a portion of the edge is removed by the angled blade.

RAISING A PANEL

Raised Panels are popular decorative features in furniture making. To accomplish this cut, set up your saw

for a horizintal rip. Raise the work on an auxiliary table and slide against fence.

FINISHED RAISED PANEL

37

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38

There are several methods of cutting a taper. A valuable helper is an adjust able jig. They are simple to make, but

if you prefer, you may purchase one (Sears Cat. #9-3233 Aluminum Taper

Jig).

Double taper: After the first cut, ad just the movable leg on the jig to twice the first taper cut and cut again.

fm

■ M

To make a cut where the wood will overhang the front of the table, tack

(or clamp) a straight guide board to

the underside of the wood and use the

front edge of the table as a rip fence.

To make simple wedges or to dupli cate many tapered cuts, you may find a throw away jig the quickest and easiest helper.

39

PATTERN SAWING

To make a number of odd shaped

parts, pattern sawing is a real time- saver and guarantees uniformity of parts. A pattern guide is clamped to the table against the fence.

Adjust the carriage position, using a scrap block so the outside face of the blade is flush with the face of the guide. Lock carriage. Start saw and lower arm so that the blade cuts an open sided kerf as it is lowered to the bottom of the rip trough. Raise arm 1/2 turn (1/16").

The work is fastened to the pattern with brads from the top or from under

neath with screws if you don’t want to mar the surface. The part is cut out by holding the pattern firmly against the guide while cutting.

Be sure the pattern is at least as

thick as the guide.

40

J

CUTTING COVES

Earlier in the book, we cut a cove in the table top and called it a rip trough. This same technique can be used to make a variety of mouldings.

For short parts, position the saw in rip position. Clamp the work to the table and take light cuts, lower 1/8" for each new pass until the desired depth is reached. Cut slowly. Don’t strain the blade.

For long pieces, position the saw for crosscut. Clamp a guide piece loosely

along the outside of the work so the work is free to slide. Take light cuts

1/8" or less and feed slowly. It will be easier to cut coves if the

blade is angled slightly in the direction

of cutting so that the faces of the teeth do some work. The blade can be angled by tilting (bevel angle) and turning. (Miter angle.) Various com

binations of tilt and miter can be used

to vary the curvature of the cove.

41

m

42

DIAMONDS

The scrap triangular strips from the

first pyramid cuts can be used to cut

diamonds. Leave the bevel angle at 45° and swing the arm to some con venient angle, say 45° right miter.

Place stock in position to the left of the blade and pull saw through with right right hand for first cut. Turn stock 180°, hold with right hand and pull saw through with left hand. Never let the stock get less than 6 " long for safety’s sake. Use a new piece.

Pyramids are made by making a series

of 45° bevel crosscuts rotating the wood 180° after each cut.

After the first series of cuts are made, the wood is turned 90° and a second series of cuts made which result in pyramids.

If small flats are left on the

a faceted appearance results.

tops

43

BOWLS

Bowls can be made very easily. Before clamping the work to the table, the

saw is cranked up approximately 19

turns. Loosen bevel lock knob, raise

bevel latch handle and rotate saw counter clockwise from 90° through to

180° to be sure the blade misses the

wood. Now, with the saw running, low

er arm 1/2 turn at a time and swing saw through the above described arc. Use a sharp blade and feed slowly.

As a variation, you can, after getting

the blade down into the wood, lock the

bevel lock knob and release the yoke. Clamp handle, pull up the swivel latch knob and rotate the yoke. Lessen the bevel angle and rotate the saw again,

repeating as necessary to achieve the

desired effect.

3

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44

ROTARY PLANER SURFACER OPERATION

SHAPING

Your Accra-Arm Saw can perform as a very ver satile shaper. It is unsurpassed, for instance, when making a quantity of tongue and groove joints. It saves time and insures accuracy. It also enables you to make traditional edges on furniture tops and a variety of other shapes impossible to

produce by any other method. You will need

Craftsman Molding Cutter Head Cat. No. 9-3215

(Single Blade Type) or Cat. No. 9-3200 (three blade type).

45

46

You also need Shaper Gijard Cat No. 9-29525. When this guard is properly adjusted, NO PART OF THE CUTTER HEAD IS EXPOSED. This is a

MUST for safety.

The cutter head is mounted using both collars and with the flat side of the

blade leading.

The normal position for most shaping operations is with the shaft vertical, the cutter protruding thru a 2-piece fence or thru the Craftsman Fence Attachment Cat. No. 9-2953.

47

STRAIGHT EDGE SHAPING

It is usually done in the manner shown,

although it can be done with the yoke

assembly in the out-rip position by using an auxiliary table to provide proper clearance for the threaded motor

shaft. Note use of Craftsman Hold Down attachment. If you are removing wood from the whole edge, you move your

rear fence forward or shim the face to

make up for narrowing the width as it goes thru the cutter. Feed from Right to Left.

CIRCULAR EDGE SHAPING

By moving the fences to form a “Vee” and fit the part being shaped, you can edge circular table tops and other items. Turn the work in a counter clockwise direction.

48

SHAPES YOU

MAKING LOUVERED DOORS WITH SHAPER HEAD SET UP AS A JOINTER.

CAN MOLD

TILTED ARBOR SHAPING

RADIUS SHAPING (SWING ARM)

ROSETTE-

FOR JOINTING OPERATIONS

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WJ-JM

Note the 2 pennies used as spacers on the infeed fence. (These pennies should be lower than the surface of the table.) The amount of material removed will be equal to the thickness of the coins. Note use of auxiliary work surface. Spacer boards at rear are removed and clamps press directly against the split fence.

A - INFEED FENCE

B- OUTFEED FENCE

C,D— PENNY

CP39

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50

Adjust the carriage so that the jointer

knife is flush with the outfeed fence.

Jointing operation.

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SCREEN BEAD

TABLE LEAF

CABINET DOOR UP

5

SHAPES YOU CAN MOLD WITH MOLDING HEAD CUTTERS

DECORATIVE INSIDE MOLDING

m

ft:

m

r ~

■s p

3*

ROUTING

Routing bits add to the versatility of your

i

Accra-Arm Saw and enable you to do opera

tions that would be tedious and very difficult

by hand. Standard router bits can be used in a V2"

capacity chuck on the accessory shaft end

of your Radial Arm Tool.

Straight line routing is done by moving the carriage as you would for a straight, miter, bevel or compound crosscut.

You can also lock the carriage and use a rip type operation with the router bit— vertical horizontal or angled.

Any straight line work that can be done

by using either a router or a dado head, use the dado head.

m

r:

PANEL INDENTING

Whole centers of panels can be

relieved or indented. Normally, the

indented portion is first outlined and then the remaining portion is cleaned out free hand or with straight line cuts.

56

MORTISE

To make a mortise, use the bit like a drill, making a series of overlapping

holes. You can use stops on the fence

to limit the length of the mortise. After

“drilling” , the wood is moved against

the bit, clearing out the small peaks

left between the holes. The mortise can be squared up with a chisel or the tenon can be rounded.

FREE HAND ROUTING

You position the tool so the router is vertical. After marking any necessary guidelines on the work, start the motor and lower the bit the desired depth

into the work. Feed the wood slowly with even pressure. Different sized and shaped cutters require different depths of cut and feed speeds. Differ ent kinds of woods will behave differ ently, too.

PATTERN ROUTING

Pattern routing is similar to pattern sawing discussed in Chapter 5. It is used to produce a shaped edge on circular, oval or irregularly shaped table tops for instance.

In pattern routing, the pattern rides the polished shaft above the cutting edges of the tool bit or a jig — the table below the cutter. The pattern should be at least to y 2 " thick to

provide a proper bearing surface

against the polished shaft. The pattern must also ride high

enough over the work to clear the cutter. Use a shim if necessary. The

pattern, shim and work can be fas tened together with small brads. Move the work against the cutter rotation—

not with it.

r-

rc

HOLLOW PATTERN ROUTING

Pattern routing can also be done by using a hollow pattern which rides on a pin centered directly under the router bit.

ROUTING BY STEPPING WORK ALONG FENCE

59

ROUTER U _ X

STOP

v - k "

7T —

\ DRAWER FRONT / L~

/

“ X” —TW ICE "Y ”

MIN US W

ROUTER-STOP

, DRAWER-FRONT

PLANNED DIMENSION OF

RABBET OR LIP (CUT AFTER

DOVETAIL HAS BEEN COMPLETED)

•• X " TWICE “ Y "

PLUS PLANNED RABBET DIM. MIN US W

-------

Figure 3

COMB

^4

ROUTER DEPTH ALWAYS % " REGARDLESS OF WOOD THICKNESS

| ^ DRAWER SIDE

- Y *

__

-*■

/

9

I

Figu re 4

.COMB

The finest furnituredrawers are always dovetailed at the joint where the

drawer front meets the side. To make dovetail joints, use Dovetail Attach ment Sears Cat. No. 9-2462 and a i/2"

dovetail bit on a Vi" shank.

The Dovetail Fixture has been completely and accurately assembled at the factory.

A wooden extension should be provided as shown in figure 1. The extension should be

made of sm ooth, flat unwarped stock of uni

form thickness. This extension should be exactly V2 " in thickness, 73A " wide and at

least 12" long. The length of the extension

may be increased if needed, to support extra long work. The wooden cleat, packed with the Dovetail Fixture should be installed on the extension as shown in figure 1. Countersunk screw holes have been drilled in the clea t and jig for # 9 x fla t head wood screws.

LOADIN G T H E FIXTURE: The w o rk piec es

should be accurately squared and cut to size.

Load the fix tu re as shown in figure 2. The pieces should be butted solidly against the stop brackets of the fixture and against each

other as shown in the illustrations. Tighten the clamp knobs enough to hold the

work pieces securely in place. Do not over tighten and spring the fixture.

Note: The exposed surfaces of the work as clamped in the fixture will be the inside sur faces of the finished joint.

ROUTER: This dovetail fixture is designed for use with a V2 " dovetail router on a Vi" diam eter shank.

The router must be set to a depth of as

shown in figures 2 and 3. No other setting will give a satisfactory dovetail joint. If a tria l cut produces a loose fit, the router is too shallow

in the work piece, while too tight a f it is the result of too deep a setting.

SETTING THE COMB AND STOP: If the drawer side is 9 / i 6" thick or less, set the ends of the comb teeth flush w ith the exposed surface of the draw er side as shown in figure 3. Set the

router stop a t X as determined by the formula shown in figure 3.

If the drawer side is g reater than ’/u " thick, the comb must be moved back to allow the router shank to penetrate W into th e drawer front. In this case, the router stop will not be

used, and the router shank will penetrate to the full depth of the space between the comb

teeth.

See figu re 4 for the comb and stop setting

when a rabbet or lip cut is planned for the

drawer front.

The setting of the comb and stop must be the same at both ends of the fixture. The ends of the comb teeth and the edge of the stop must be parallel with the edge of the work piece.

CUTTING THE DOVETAIL: Double-check all settings for accuracy, and see that the clamp

knobs and bolts are tig ht. The table should be

clean and square. Check to be sure that the

router depth is set accurately.

Start the motor. Feed the rou ter into the work using th e comb teeth as a guide against the smooth Vi" diameter shank of the router.

Be sure th at the router and comb are in con tact when shaping the dovetails. The router shank m ust penetrate to the full stop depth between the comb teeth.

Use only enough feed pressure to keep the router cutting. Do not use excessive force when pushing the router against the comb or stop. Vaseline applied to the edge of the comb will reduce wear of the comb and router shank. Do not cut opposite ends of the same piece at the same end of the fixture. In other words, cut the right fron t and th e left rear drawer corners at one side of the fixture and the other two corners at the opposite side of the fixture.

It is a good policy to make a trial cut in scrap

wood as a final check on any fixture or router setting before cutting the actual work piece.

This fixture is designed to cut a V2" dovetail joint. Inform ation herein has been based on the use of a V2" standard router on a Vi" shank.

INSIDE OF DRAWER FRONT

INSIDE OF DRAWER SIDE

e

The same chuck used to hold router bits can also be used for Craftsman

Power Wood Bits to bore holes from

Vs" to l i/4".

Holes or circles can be drilled as shown by lowering the arm.

Perhaps the most useful set up is with the bit horizontal and the carriage free to travel. Use a high fence if necessary to steady the work.

Dowel pin is used to space holes.

To bore holes in ends of parts, use an auxiliary table and move the work into

the bit.

Vee blocks are used to hold legs for

side drilling.

Vee blocks for edge drilling in disc.

3

- 3

Angle drilling.

3

Set up for boring holes for

dowel pins used in framing.

63

64

DISC SANDING

Your Radial Arm Saw plus the Crafts man Sanding Wheel Cat. No. 9-2272

1 0 " makes an excellent disc sander.

The cost of the disc and abrasive paper faces will be well worth it in time saved and superior finish on cabinet work.

Attach abrasive with Stick Disc Ce ment or Liquid Disc Cement. Put a fine paper on one side of the disc and

coarse on the other side. Install with the desired side out (awayfrom motor), depending on the job at hand. Use

both collars on the disc. You may

leave the guard off while sanding, if you wish— but use caution.

mz

m

Your most used positions are those shown below:

90° crosscut sanding Bevel sanding

DRUM SANDING

Drum sanding using Craftsman Sand ing Drum Cat. No. 9-2524 with Sand ing Sleeves Cat. No. 9-2522 is the best way to sand edges of long boards and irregular shapes with concave sur faces. Drum is threaded to mount directly on accessory shaft end.

Remove blade.

Edge sanding in horizontal position (using a split fence).

Edge sanding "out-rip” position, (take very light cuts)

%

67

SIMPLE MITERS

Simple miters are 45° angle cuts on the ends or edges of boards.

A simple flat miter is cut by moving the arm to 45°.

crosscut.

A simple edge miter is usually cut in a

bevel ripping operation.

Polygon miters are miters used to make many sided boxes or frames. The number of sides a box is to have will determine the

proper sawing angle. To find the proper angle, you divide 180° by the number of sides.

For instance:

180 -f- 3 sides = 60° 180 -r- 4 sides = 45°

180 + 5 sides = 36° 180 -r- 6 sides = 30° 180 -T- 7 sides = 25.5° 180^- 8 sides 22.5° 180 -5- 9 sides = 20° 180 h~ 10 sides = 18°

As you have already learned, compound

a

miters are easy to make on your Accra-Arm Saw. You will use these joints to make cupola roofs, shadow box picture frames, planter boxes and many other projects.

69

COMPOUND CUT ANGLE SETTINGS

S in c e n o c h a r t o f t h is t y p e c a n b e re a d w it h a b s o lu t e a c c u r a c y , w e h a v e — f o r y o u r c o n v e n ie n c e — w r it t e n

in t h e m i t e r ( M ) a n d b e v e l

( B ) a n g l e s e t t i n g s ( c o r r e c t

to n e a r e s t

lA°)

f o r

t h e p o i n t a t w h ic h

e a c h l i n e o f t h e

bevel angle setting

70

The chart will show you the miter and bevel angles to use for almost any compound miter. First, decide how many sides the box or frame

is to have. For instance, let your project be a box having five sides. Earlier in this chapter we found that a 5 sided box required 36° bevel

or miter cuts on the edges. (18 0-^5= 36°). Follow the “5-sided box”

radius on the chart at the 36° point. If, for instance, your five sided box is to have a 20° slope to the sides, find the point where the 36° line crosses the 20° line. Reading straight down will give the miter angle

setting of approximately 34y2°. Read straight across and you will find your bevel angle setting to be approximately I 6V20.

71

Used to increase the strength of any "flat” fh Z miter joint.

Used to increase the strength of an edge EZ

miter.

72

BOX JOINT

Makes very strong corner joints. Used where appearance is not a factor.

■ R

Tee Lap is used in cabinet framing where appearance is not a factor or where the end grain can be concealed.

HALF LAP JOINTS

MIDDLE LAP is used in cabinet framing.

73

1. DADOED BOX CORNER, strong and easily made — often used at rear corners of drawers.

2. MILLED DADO CORNER

Sometimes used for drawer front joints in inexpensive furniture,

(drawer corner)

3. DOVETAIL

4. SIMPLE MORTISE AND TENON

Very strong joint used principally in furniture.

5. BARE FACED TENON

Used in furniture usually at the

joining of a dining table apron to

a leg.

6. HAUNCHED TENON

Used where stiles have been

grooved to receive a panel. The tenon gives strength and the haunched part fills the groove.

7. OPEN MORTISE TENON

Simple strong joint easily made using only the dado head. Used

where appearance is not a factor.

8. MITERED TENON

Used where two aprons join a table leg.

9. LOCK MITER JOINT

Used in furniture. There is no ex posed end grain as in a standard

m iter jo in t plus exceptional strength and is easily clamped by applying pressure in one direction.

10. RABBET MITER JOINT

A furniture joint usually used with

glue blocks. Not as strong as a lock

miter but easier to produce.

75

76

A B n n n n If ft ft 1 1 ULI l l i m ill B W

CUTTING RAFTERS

Cutting rafters and other construction framing is another function your Accra-Arm Saw performs with ease and precision. The following drawings show typical roof framing parts. The table shows the angles and depths of cuts to use. Common rafter cuts “ 1,” “ 2" and "3 ” (see illustration) are all bevel cut with the arm at “ 0” . To find the bevel angle for these cuts, determine the "RUN” and “ RISE” of your roof construction,

then use the following table to figure

the angle. Place your first rafter board

on edge across the worktable, set-up the correct bevel angle— and make cuts “ 1” and "2” for the Plate Notch, and cut "3” . Now measure the length along a line parallel to one edge, start

ing at the plate notch angle. To deter

mine length, take the "RUN” for a common rafter times the “ FACTOR”

(in table), then shorten this by half the thickness of the ridge board. Finally, place the board flat across the work table, reset to a "0 ” bevel angle and move the arm to a miter setting for the remaining two cuts (as also found

in the table)— then make cuts "4 ” and “ 5” , sizing the length as required. Use this first rafter as a pattern for other common rafters— reuse all the same settings— and cut the remaining rafters (making all like cuts at one time). Hip and valley rafters have the same plumb (“ A0”) and level (“ B°” ) angles used for the common rafters in the same roof. In addition, each is at an angle ("C ° ” ) with the "RIDGE BOARD”— which necessitates making all cuts with compound angle settings. Measure the "C°” angle at either point

shown in the illustration. Use bevel angles for the "A°” and “ B°” together with miter angles for the “ C°” angles when cutting the Plate Notch cuts.

Use miter angles for the "A°” and

"B°” angles together with a bevel angle for the "C °” angle when making the remaining cuts. Remember that for opposite rafters (like “ X” and “ Y” in the illustration) the "C°” angles will be in opposite directions. Deter

mine the length by measuring the

RUN for this type rafter— then figure it as for a common rafter.

HOW TO FIGURE ANGLES FOR RAFTER CUTS

Roof Pitch

1/6

1/ 4 6" 26i/2 631/2 1 3. 4 16

1/ 3 8 " ^ 7

3 / 8

5/12

1/2

7/12 5 / 8 2 / 3 i6 " / / ,

3 / 4

5 / 6

Full

Rise Per

Ft. of Run

4 " 181/2 711/2 1 2 . 6 4 9

9 " Z _ /

10" Z / 12" Z /

14" Z/.

15" Z//

i 8 " /_//

20" / /

2 4 " /

Cut Angles

A° B°

333/4 3 7

393/4 4 5 491/2 511/4

5 3 561/4 5 9 631/2

561/4 14 .4 2 2 5 3 501/4 4 5 401/2

3 8 3 /4

3 7

3 3 3 /4

31 261/2

Factor

15 15 . 6 2 1 16 . 9 7 1 18 . 4 3 9 19 . 2 0 9

20

2 1 . 6 3 3 2 3 . 3 2 4 2 6 . 8 3 3

Depth of

Cut 1

1—*

z

13/4"

vSO

C M

2 1 / 2 " 2 % "

2 3 /4 "

CO

3 1/6" 31/6" 31/6" 3i/s" 3i/g"

77

Sawing aluminum with fine tooth veneer or non-ferrous blade. Note push thru cut rather than pull thru cut.

Using abrasive cut off wheel to make cuttin g bricks an easy, accurate job.

Using abrasive cut off wheel to score

ceramic tile for accurate cutting.

Saw as a buffing wheel

Using a glass cutter mounted on

anti kick back pawl shaft to make ^g

easy accurate cuts on glass.

Figure X

B O TT O M S ID E O F TABLE

T -N U T C ORR E C TL Y IN S T ALL E D

L E VEL I N G SC RE W

BA SE — LE V E L IN G SC RE W IN S TAL L ED

TO P O F T AB LE

IN T -N U T

Figure 2

STEP ONE— INSTALLATION OF i S FRONT TABLE

1. Place the large table board upside-

1=

down on floor. The bottom side has a

notch (cutout) for clearance of eleva tion crank. (See figure 1.) Distinguish between the five through-bored (level ing screw) holes and the seven counter sink holes. Drive nuts into the five through-bored holes. (See figure 2.)

2. Place the large table board on channels with cutout notch forward i~ :

and down as shown in figure 1.

3. Align the countersunk holes with matching holes in the channels. Place

a Vi" flat washer and a Vi-20 x % "

m

machine screw in each of the six countersunk holes located above the

sr:

channels. Use a V i-2 0 x lV i" ma chine screw in the countersunk hole at the center of table board.

4. Attach lockwashers and unts to the six screws in the channels. Do not

sr

tighten these screws at this time.

STEP TWO— ELIMINATING RADIAL ARM SIDE PLAY

Check for looseness of column column support. If looseness can be fe perform operations in accordance w

the numbered sequence in figure

STEP THREE— SQUARING THE CROSSCUT TRAVEL

1. Set the radial arm at 0° index position and tighten

the arm latch handle.

2. Place a square on the table as shown in figure 4

and position the saw and square until the leg of the square just contacts a tooth of the saw blade. (Posi

tion “A”, figure 4.) Mark this tooth with crayon or chalk.'

3. When the blade is moved back and forth on the radial arm, the saw tooth "A” should just touch the square at all positions. If saw tooth “A” does not touch the square at all points, make the following adjustments.

a. If saw tooth (“A”, figure 4) moves away from the square when moving the blade from the rear toward the front of the table, tap the right-hand front edge of the table.

b. Recheck blade squareness and, if correct, tighten all table hold down screws.

c. Reverse this procedure if tooth "A” moves into

the square when moving the saw table from the rear toward the front of the table.

4. In extreme cases, the above adjustment procedure may not be sufficient due to rough handling during shipment. Make the following adjustment only after

tightening the table screws and the cross-cut travel

cannot be squared according to the preceding adjust ment routine.

a. Remove three screws (1 and 2, figure 5), indicator (3) and radial arm cap (4).

b. Turn the arm latch handle (1, figure 4) one-half

turn counterclockwise but do not pull it out.

c. Loosen (do not remove) two hex-head screws (5, figure 5) located inside the column tube.

d. Move the radial arm slightly in the proper direction to make saw tooth (“A”, figure 4) follow edge of square when the saw blade is moved in and out in a “crosscut” manner.

e. Retighten the hex head screws (5, figure 5) and arm latch handle (1, figure 4).

f. Recheck travel of blade tooth (“A”) with the square. g. After the cross cut travel has been accurately

squared, install the radial arm cap (4, figure 8), indi cator (3) and screws (1 and 2). Set the indicator (3) at 0° position.

STEP FOUR— LEVELING THE TABLE PARALLEL TO THE RADIAL ARM

NOTE: DO NOT USE A CARPENTERS LEVEL

1. Remove the saw guard.

2. Insert a set screw (leveling screw) into each of the

five leveling, T-nuts. (See figure 2.) Insert screws from

the top side until they just touch the top of the base.

3. Tighten both channel clamping bolts (figure 6) at both front and rear of the base until they are snug (use a wrench but do not pull them up tight).

4. Release the arm latch (1), and carriage lock (5) for easy movement of saw blade during the leveling operation. Lower the blade and move it to points

1, 2, 3 and 4 (POSITION 1, figure 7) to find at which

of these points the blade first touches the top of the

table.

5. The high point must be at one of the front leveling

screw holes before continuing the leveling procedure.

If high point is not at the front, adjust the leveling screw at point 1 or 2 so the high point is created at

the front near point 1 or 2. Raise the blade slightly to pick-up a “pinging” sound at this new high point.

NOTE: Do not change elevation of the blade during

the remainder of leveling operation.

8:

POSITION

1

POSITION

2

POSITION

3

6. Move the blade to the back of table, directly behind the high point. Raise the

table to blade height at this point by

adjusting leveling screws, points (2 and

4, POSITION 2) on right-hand side of

table. Tighten the channel clamping bolts at front and back of base on the

right-hand leveled side.. (See figure 6.)

7. Return the blade to front of table and make a slight adjustment of the leveling screw in this area, if necessary.

8. Swing the blade to front of table on left-hand side. Adjust leveling screws at

points (3 and 1, POSITION 3, figure 7).

9. Tighten channel clamping bolts at front and back of base on the left-hand

leveled side. (See figure 6.)

10. Move the saw blade to all four level ing screw positions to recheck for proper leveling of table. (Points 1 through 4,

POSITION 1, figure 7.)

11. Move the saw blade to center of

table. If the table is low at this point,

raise it by adjusting the leveling screw (point 5, POSITION 4). It may be neces

sary to back off the screw (6) to provide

proper clearance.

12. If the table is high at the center, lower it by tightening the screw (6). When the table is level, rotate the set screw (5) clockwise until it bottoms on the base. This will serve as a lock for the adjustment of screw (6).

13. Place the rip fench in vertical posi tion behind front table board.

14. Place the rear table behind the rip fence, with the cutout section forward

(next to rip fence).

15. Place the table spacer board behind the rear table.

16. Install the table clamps at locations

shown in figure 4 and tighten them se

curely against the edge of rear table.

POSITION

^ STEP FIVE— SQUARING THE

* SAW BLADE TO THE TABLE TOP

_ l. Place the edge of a framing square * 8 on the table top and against the saw

blade as shown in figure 8.

2. When the saw blade is square to the table top, no light will be visible between

the square and face of saw blade. Do

not allow the square to rest against a ^ tooth of the saw. If light is visible be- * * tween the square and face of saw blade

(with square leg held firm against the >*■1 table top), perform the following adjust

ments.

2 8 a. Loosen the bevel lock knob (1, figure

8.) Using a %2" hex “L” wrench, loosen

just slightly the four socket-head screws

(2, figure 8.)

b. While holding the motor with one

hand and the square with the other

hand, tilt the motor until the saw blade is square with the table top. Then, while holding the square firmly against the saw blade and table top, apply pressure against lower part of saw blade with the

thumb until approximately !/32" clearance exists between the square and lower

edge of saw blade. This is to compen- sate for the possible slight shifting of

the motor while screws (2) are being

tJ 8 tightened.

c. Tighten the socket head screws (2,

H 8 i figure 8) and bevel lock knob (1).

NOTE: It may be necessary to perform rnore than one trial operation before the saw blade remains perfectly square with

--=■« table top after tightening screws.

d. Recheck for blade squareness with table top.

e. The indicator (3, figure 8) should read 0° on the bevel index scale. If not, loosen the indicator attaching screw, adjust indicator to zero and tighten

screw securely.

STEP SIX— CHECKING THE SAW

BLADE FOR HEEL (LEFT TO RIGHT)

1.. Place a square against the rip fench

and the saw blade as shown in figure

12. The long leg of the square must be

held firmly against the rip fence and the

short leg must not touch any of the teeth on the saw blade.

2. If a gap exists between the saw blade

and the square, one of two types of

"heel” exists. The two types of "heel” are illustrated in views "A” and ”B”, figure 10. To correct for either type of

“HEEL” condition, proceed as follows: a. Remove the left-hand carriage cover

(1, figure 11)., b. Loosen the yoke clamp handle (2)

by pulling the handle horizontally toward

the front of the saw.

c„ Loosen (slightly) the two hex-head machine screws (3).

d. Rotate the yoke until the gap be

tween the saw blade and square is eliminated.

e. Lock the yoke by pushing the yoke clamp handle rearward and tighten the

two hex-head machine screws (3).

f. Recheck for “heel” after tightening screws, and make corrections if neces sary.

g. Replace carriage cover.

STEP SEVEN— DOUBLE CHECK SQUARING OF SAW

1. Recheck for correct adjustment of

the saw by performing "STEPS THREE, FIVE and SIX”.

2. If the cross cut travel is not perfectly squared, proceed with “STEP THREE” paragraph 4, and make all adjustments listed in sub-paragraphs “a” through “g”.

A RADIAL ARM TOOL

PORTABLE BENCH

NOTE: 10-inch Tool dimensions are shown in black figures. 9-inch Tool dimensions are shown in white figures.

RABBET FOR DRAWER BOTTOM

% " FROM BOTTOM

SIDE PIECE

To adapt this portable bench for various uses, size all dimensions

not specified on the drawing to suit your own requirements . . . only the critical dimensions (which must be exact) are shown.

We suggest a lock (a hasp with padlock will do) to hold the drawer shut in transit. Your Radial Arm

Tool may be rested or bolted in

place in the bench center well.

TOOL WORKBENCH

This bench is designed to provide a

stable base for the Accra-Arm tool without the need to bolt or screw the tool to the bench.

It is versatile and practical in that

the center section can be built sep

arately as a complete unit. Later, if desired, one or both side units

can be added without a major op eration.

The basic framework provides space

for storing the saw arm when not in use— so that the entire workbench

top is available for other purposes.

It also incorporates a sawdust dis posal feature in that the saw will

toss 90% of its own sawdust back through the center opening into a collection box below.

As illustrated, sliding doors may be added to enclose the two sides of the bench top section. In addition,

the two end units can be converted

into cabinet drawers, or into shelf space (or one of each), if desired. In fact, starting with the sturdy

central support for the saw, you can

build up the workbench— piece by piece— into the handsome, conven ient bench illustrated here.

For your convenience, we illustrate here this piece-by-piece build up,

starting with the basic structure. You can follow these plans step-

BILL OF MATERIALS

BASIC BENCH

*15. Cabinet Door Guides

#16. Box Trim l"x2" See Detail Z

’'Groove first, then cut 1 piece 26y2", 1 piece 12" for each side cabinet

#Cut 1 piece 26"; 2 pieces 18y2"; 2 pieces 6y2".

FINISHED BENCH

*20. Cabinet Bottom *21. Doors

*Used only on cabinet section

Part Material

1. Legs

2. Rails 2"x4"

3. Table Sides 3/4" plywood

4. Saw Table

5. Table Sides

6. Table Front and Back

7. Side Tables 3/4 " plywood 28"x32"

8. Box Sides

9. Box Front 1/4" plywood 18y2"x7" 2

10. Box Top l"xlO"

11. Baffle

12. Cabinet Side

13. Backing

14. Sliding Doors

Material Required: (Carriage bolts, lag screws

17. Cabinet Sides

18. Cabinet Inner Sides

19. Cabinet Back

22. Drawer Guides

23. Bottom Drawer Guides

24. Front Brace

25. Rear Brace

26. Drawer Bottom

27. Drawer Sides

28. Drawer Back

29. Drawer Front

Material Required: (Hinges,

2"x4"

3/4" plywood 3/4" plywood 3/4" plywood

3/4" plywood

y8" hardboard 19"x7" l"xlO" 12" 0 Vs" hardboard

V s " hardboard

l"x2" 3/4 "xl" (grooved) 0

l"x2 "

...........

2"x4"

...........

I"xl0"

.........

3/4" plywood . Vs" hardboard

ye" hardboard ye" hardboard

Vb " hardboard

3/4" plywood

3/4 " plywood 3/4 " plywood 2 7 3 /4 " x 6 " 3/4 " plywood 3/4 " plywood 3/4 " plywood

3/4" plywood

3/4 " plywood 3/4" plywood

y4" plywood

knobs, drawer pulls, bullet latches, angles, miscellaneous

3/4" plywood ................................................................

Vb " hardboard

Size

34" (See Detail X) 4 40" 5%"x27%" 26"x40"

5 " x 2 7 3/ 4 "

5"x25y8"

18'/a"x9%" 2 2

iiv ."

12"xl4"

, nuts, bolts, washers,

29"x27%* 0 28y4"x273/4"

29"x24V8"

27 3/ 4 "x24y8"

2 8 y4 "x 10 3/4"

2 5 3/4 " x 2 "

215/a"x2" 20ye"x2" 27y„"x21%" 0

5 3 /4 " x 2 7 3 / 4 "

5»/„"xl8%"

6 V 4 " x 2 3 % "

miscellanous screws and nails.)

Center

Section

2 2

1 1 0 0 0

1—40" Ig.

1

1—40" Ig. 1—68" Ig.

0 2 4

1—76" Ig.

1—8' 1—8'& 1—4' 2—8' 1_12'& 1—8'

1—4' 1—4'x4' sheet 1—4' sheet

0

0 0

0

0 0 0 0

0 0

0

Number Req'd.

Center &

1 Side

6 8 2 2 2

1 2 2 1 2

2 2

1 —6 8" ig. 1— 96" Ig.

1

1 2

1 —38y2" ig. 1—77" Ig.

1—76" Ig. . 1—76" Ig.

2—12'

1—8' 1—10' 1—4'x8' sheet 1—4'x8' sheet 1—8' sheet 1— 10' sheet

1

1 2 1 2 1 1

2 2

8 8 2 1 1 4 8 8 4 4 4 4

screws and nails.)

3 Sections

1—96" Ig.

2—12'& 1—8'

. 1—4'x8' sheet

1—4'x5' sheet

. 1—3'x8' sheet

1—3'x5' sheet

2

1

4 2

1

2

1 1

4

ACCRA-ARM TOOL WORKBENCH

FOR APPLICATION TO 9-INCH TOOL SEE NOTE BELOW

by-step . . . or you can begin with the basic structure (including the excellent sawdust disposal feature), then build up the units following any plan you desire. Plywood, Ma sonite or Pegboard can be used to advantage.

WORKSHOP VACUUM DUST COLLECTOR

This very excellent and useful shop

vacuum (Shop-Vac) cleaner can be placed in one of the end sections as

illustrated, to collect all dust from

the saw. It can be removed quickly

and easily for emptying . . . and for use in general clean-up.

Increase Saw Table (4) depth from 26" to

26Vz". . ■ and also Increase all other front

to back m easurem ents by sam e (V2")

am ount. Decrease Saw Table (4) and Rails

(2) length from 40" to, 32", and relocate

Baffle (11) accordingly. Raise Saw Table

(4) level to be only 4% " below top by add

ing iy2" to height of Cabinet Inner Sides (18).

FOR 9-IN CH TOOL

NOTE: Notch Box Sides - 8 to fit on top

WARDROBE STORAGE CHEST

Although shown in use as a child's ward

robe, this compact unit also is ideal for

a man’s clothes. It has ample depth to

hang jackets and shirts.

After you try it once, you probably will

agree that this method of constructing drawers with projecting bottoms that

slide on guides is the easiest you’ve seen. Cut and rabbet all parts to size, sand and

fill edges, and check fit of mating parts. All joints should be glued and nailed.

Fasten 1" x 2" stiffeners to back with 4d

nails. Nail back into rabbeted sides with

u y ii u u ii o

6 d nails.

You may find it easier to nail drawer guides to intermediate standard and end

before final assembly. Add rigidity and keep square by installing

base strip “ D” and wardrobe bottom “ M” . Then fasten divider “ A" in place and attach drawer guides “ I” and l"x2 " forward stiffener.

5 Drawer assembly goes fast after parts

are cut. Nail sides to back, then attach bottom and front. Butt joints are satis

factory because all weight of drawers

j j rests on bottom panels. Install wardrobe

top last with 8d finish nails, to make it

easier to check fit and action of drawers.

a

Install 1" pole with ordinary closet rod

jg ferrules, sand joints, hang door and lid,

and finish as recommended. Be sure to seal all door edges well and finish both

a

faces alike. See page 92 for assembly detail.

a

PARTS SCHEDULE

a

CODE NO. REQ'D

A

1

a

i

m

i

B 1 C 2 2378"x42y4" Side D

1 3 V 2 " x4 8 " Base

E 10

F 2 G 12 H 6 53/,"x21" Drawer Backs 1 2 J 1 K

1 6

L M

1 2 2 '/2" x2 2 % "

N 6

12 Lin. Ft.

2 Lin. Ft.

1 Pr.

Miscellaneous—4d, 6d and 8d Finish Nails and Glue

SIZE PART IDENTIFICATION

2 2 % " x 423 /4"

237/e,,x48"

5'y,s"x22ys"

5JV'x27y8"

5y„"x20"

3 / / 'x l8 3 / „ "

42y /'x47y4"

23y4"x39y4"

6y!"x2 3 ys"

22"x23ye"

l"x2" Stops

1" Diameter Fir Pole

—

Standard

Top

Drawer Guides Drawer Guides Drawer Side

Drawer Guides Back

Door Drawer Front Bottom Drawer Bottom

Semi-Concealed Hinges

U

-------------

2 3 '/,"

----------------

r— 23,A"-^r

“ M " * 2 " ^

SL - 22

----

_ _ _ __

SECTION A

f \

U

\

\ t

•- Va "

I

5 ’/is"

--------

5 % "

— *

--------

— 1

--------

5 % "

— 1

---------

5 'Ms"

5‘Ms"

. 1 . . .

— 1

--------

5 'Ms"

- U m,"

*"

v.." /I1

/IS

CUTTING DIAGRAMS

ALL PLYPANEL A D

91

WARDROBE STORAGE CHEST

OVERHANG RIGHT SIDE OF LEFT DRAWER AND LEFT SIDE OF RIGHT DR.

DETAIL 1.

DETAIL 3.

CUTTING DIAGRAMS ALL PLYWOD INTERIOR A A

RIGHT DRAWER SHOWN

DETAIL 2.

STUDENT'S DESK WITH STORAGE

You seldom find student furniture that “ grows” with the user. This desk will do that. Construction is

simple, straightforward and sturdy, so it should serve well for years, as the writing surface height can change from 24" up to 29".

Select joint details to be followed from alternates given. Cut parts as

required for rabbeted or butt joint construction. Check cabinet parts to insure fit before assembling. All joints should be glued and nailed.

Join sides with top and bottom

shelf after relieving for hinge, then

nail back in place. Nail through bot tom and back into drawer divider

“ G” after attaching drawer sup

ports at lower edge as shown. Nail through upper shelves “ I" into par titions "N ” and install with parti tion “ J” and intermediate shelf.

Check fit of drawer parts in place

and assemble as shown to meet in

center, hiding drawer divider panel.

Drawer fronts project past bottoms

for finger pull.

Drill six holes in sides at heights

given, spaced according to bolt

holes in steel frame you can have

made to this drawing by practically

any welding or metalworking shop.

Vz " x 4 '- 0" x 4 ' 0"

PARTS SCHEDULE

CODE NO. REQ’D

A 1

B 2 16"x22"

C

1

D 2

2 43/8" x 1 3 3/4" Inside Drawer Front

E F

2

G

1 5 '/4 " x 1 4 3/4'' H 1 1 3

J 1 7'/2"xl5y4"

K

1 22"x30y2" L 2 13 3/4 "x 13 3/4" M

4

9 Lin. Ft.

1 Only See Drawings

1 Pc.

1 Only As Required

Miscellaneous— 6d Finish Nails and Glue

3/i6" Machine Bolts as required

SIZE PART IDENTIFICATION

173/4"x32" Desk Lid

7i/j"x30y2" 5'A "x l 51/4"

4% "xl3y4"

151/2 "x301/2"

7V2" x 1 4 7 8 "

43/8" x 15V4"

3/4"x 3/4"

32" Long Piano Hinge

Side Top Drawer Front

Drawer Back Divider Between Drawers Bottom Shelf Shelf Vertical Divider

Back of Unit Drawer Bottom Drawer Side Drawer Supports Wrought Iron Frame

Chain or Lid-Support

93

STUDENT'S DESK WITH STORAGE

94

FRONT ELEVATION

SIDE ELEVATION

UTILITY CLOSET— CLEANING CART

All cleaningequipment and supplies

are out of sight, yet there is a con venient place for everything in this compact cabinet. The unique clean

ing caddy saves steps and elimin ates waste motion by taking clean

ing tools and supplies right to the job.

Establish the variable dimensions according to the equipment and supplies you wish to provide for and

the space you have. Cut all structural panels and frames

to size, sand edges and check fit. Attach sides and partition to top,

bottom and intermediate shelves;

then attach back. Glue all joints and

nail with 6d or 8d finishing nails.

The closet may be assembled flat on the floor or erect. If you assem ble on floor, be sure the diagonal dimension of the sides does not exceed your ceiling height. Level base if necessary to compensate for an uneven floor.

Attach frame around door, then

install shelves and shelf rails and hang door . . . making certain all door edges are carefully primed and both faces finished alike.

Cut parts for the cart, sand edges and check fit. Glue and nail divider panelstogether, then attach bottom.

Finish complete unit as recom mended and attach fittings.

CENTER PIN HINGES

LAUNDRY CART AND SINK CABINET

A compartment for white things and one for colored clothes in this handy cart help sort the day’s wash as it is

picked up in each room. After it is emptied, your laundry cart fits out of

the way under the sink counter. With

plywood, it is easy to add bright, cheerful color to the utility room for a pleasant contrast with white appli ances.

Adjust any variable dimensions to suit your space and the sink unit to be installed.

Cut all structural panels and frames, sand edges and check for fit. For any sink cabinet, use only fir plywood

made with 100% waterproof glue (EXT-DFPA).

Assemble base and bottom shelf of

cabinet, then attach ends, back and frames.

Attach top, apply counter surfacing material, band edges and install sink.

Cut door, sand edges, fit and hang door.

Measure space for movable shelf allowing for shelf guides, cut parts, sand edges, check fit and assemble.

Cut parts for laundry cart, sand edges and check fit. Dado side panels, or make slot with y2" wood strips for removable % " divider. Glue and nail toe piece, bottom, sides and ends together, and attach casters.

Finish entire unit as recommended . . . making certain all door edges are carefully primed and both faces finished alike. Install fittings.

RECORD PLAYER-RADIO

CABINET

This plan does not giveexactdimen- sions for certain parts because components which may be installed vary greatly. Determine space your equipment requires before laying out plywood.

Cutall similardimensions on mating or related parts without changing saw setting. All joints should be nailed and glued. Drill panels “ F” and “ H” for equipment before assembly.

First nail two sides “ B” to ends

PARTS SCHEDULE

CODE NO. REQ’D

A 2 B C 2 D E 1 5 ' / 2 " x l 4 i/ ! " Vertical Divider F G H 1 - x 1 4 '/2 "

11/2" Diameter Wrought Iron Cradle Frame; 2 Metal Lid Sup ports; 4 Cabinet Hinges Miscellaneous—6d Finish Nails and Glue; Screws, Wire and

Staples as required. "Dimensions vary—See Drawings.

2 1 2 3/4 " x 3 6 "

1 ii"xi4y 2" Vertical Divider

1 1 ± 3 y 2"xi4y2"' Bottom—Record Storage

1 6 " x l 8 " Lid

1 33/ 4 " x 1 4 V 2 " End

* x 1 4 ' / i "

SIZE

PART IDENTIFICATION

Side

Control Panel Record Changer Support

"C,” “ E” to “ H,” and “ D” to “ G.” Then install shelves and vertical

dividers according to spacing re

quired. Amplifier and radio hang from control panel “ F." If this is

not practical for the chassis you

have, install a half-shelf between the sides, which still will provide ventilation.

Finish completely as recommended,

attach to welded cradle and install

hardware and components. Connect a remote speaker.

CUTTING DIAGRAM

-■u uMUiirn*^

NOTE— CHECK SIZE OF ELECTRONIC COMPONENTS SELECTED AND ALLOW PROPER CLEARANCES.

CU TO UT PANEL FOR CHANGER

USING TEMPLATE FURNISHED BY EQUIPMENT MANUFACTURER.

U

BOTTOM OPEN FOR VENTILATION

SECTION A-A I I

CABINET OR PIANO HINGES

RECORD ALBUM ‘

± 7 "

. 7»/2"

’ v er if y

T'OR

IV z "

CONTROL PANEL

n A " OR y4" PLY.

RECORD

CHANGER |

// SECURE CRADLE WITH WIRE STAPLED TO INSIDE

V

_____

SECTION B-B

SIDE ELEVATION A

21 "

VERIFY

____

U

. 71/2".

97

BUILT-IN BAR

Of any project in this book, this bar

cabinet offers one of the best ex amples of how plywood simplifies and speeds construction. Rigid

panels eliminate any need for the

framing normally used in cabinets this large.

Cut parts to size, rabbet sides “ A"

3/s" deep for back panel and fit

matching pieces together. To sides, join bottom shelf “ B,” facing strip

"O,” divider “Q,” bottom “ P” of

light trough and partition “ C," be

ing careful to keep entire structure exactly square. Glue and nail all

joints.

Next, fit and nail the brushed ply

wood back in place. Nail and glue

brushed plywood to back of door

material and cut to size. Intermedi

ate shelves may be nailed in posi

tion or installed with adjustable

shelf supports after finishing.

Before assembling the hinged front

bar, notch partitions "F" and “ K”

for the l"x4 " nailing strip across the top. Because working space is

limited, assemble these partitions

with fixed top “ M,” shelves “ H,”

“ I,” “J,” bottom “ G” and hinged

side “ E” before exposed side “ E”

is installed. Apply Texture One-

Eleven front, hinged top and casters

last.

Move cabinet into place against wall and attach doors and hinged front bar after finishing as recom

mended.

PARTS SCHEDULE

NO. REQ'D

CODE

A

B 1

C 1

D E 2 F 2 15 V2 "x381/2 "

G

H

1 1 151/2"x26%"

J 1

K L 2 6"xl3"

M 2

N 2 0 1 P

Q

R 4

S

T 2

U 1 V 1

w 1

Miscellaneous—4d and 6d Finish Nails and Glue

i/2"x4'-0"x4'-Q"

PLYPANEL A-D

2

1

1 1

1 6"xl5i/2"

1 1

2

3 Pcs.

31/2 Lin. Ft. y4"xi"

3y2 Lin. Ft. l"x4 "

1 Pc.

1 Only

2 Pcs.

I I 1/2 Lin. Ft.

3 Ea. 6 Ea. 2 Ea. 3 Ea. As Required 1 Ea.

“Parts not identified on drawings by letters

ft*Cut from 3—l'-4"x8'-0" Panels of 2" Texture,

SIZE

16"x80" Side—Back Bar 15%"x45y4" 155/s "x30 Vi"

141/s "x155/8" 15V2"x403/4"

15V2"x403/4"

15 1/2 "x2 6 3//'

9'A "x 15'/,"

12"x42i/4" Bar Top

8"x307/8" Shelf—Back Bar 6"x453/4" Face of Light Trough

155/8"x453/4"

6"x453/4"

5% "xl4%"

57/s"xl2"

12"x13V8" 46i/2 "x80"

16"x383/4"

31i/4"x383/4" Door and Door Backing

16"x79i/2"

5y,"x453/8" Obscure Glass

40-Watt-36" Long

12"x42y4"

For 3/4 " Edge Metal Edging

“ Soss”

For 3/4 " Plywood Hinges

—

One-Eleven

PART IDENTIFICATION

Lower Shelf—Back Bar Standard—Back Bar Shelf—Back Bar Side—Front Bar Standard—Front Bar Bottom Shelf—Front Bar Shelf—Front Bar Drawer Shelf—Front Bar Shelf—Front Bar Divider Between Drawers Drawer Front

Bottom of Plant Box Divider between Plant Box

and Light Trough Drawer Side* Drawer Back* Drawer Bottom* Back of Back Bar Door and Door Backing

2" T 1-11 Doors and

Bar Front

Filler Bracing

Fluorescent Tube Plastic Laminate Top

Bar Top Hinges Pin Hinges

Rubber-Tired Casters Door Stop for Bar

PLYPANEL A-D

V

IIII

%"x4'-0"x4'-0''

PLYPANEL A-D

Apply 5/i6" Brushed

Plywood on Back

98

w

■ 1

y,6"x4'-0"x8'-0"

BRUSHED PLYWOOD

3/4/'x4'-0"x8'-0"

PLYPANEL A-D

E F

J

L

K

L

3/4"x4'-0"x8'-0"

PLYPANEL A-D

G

H

1

99