Sears | Craftsman 9-2911 Craftsman Master Shop Guide Instruction Guides

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Page 1

CRAFTSMAN

Master Shop Guide

(Sheets are numbered consecutively from 1 to 12. Turn sheets over as a group for numbers 13 through 24.)

1. Nail chart, protractor, rulers, compass, triangle and staples
2. Nails
3. Screws
4. Screws and sheet-metal screws
5. Machine screws, bolts and washers
6. Wall fasteners
7. Wall fasteners; miscellaneous hardware
8. Drills; abrasives
9. Lumber
10. Properties of common woods

11. Moulding patterns and sizes
12. Wood joints
13. Wood finishes
14. Plywood
15. Hardboard
16. Gypsum (drywall); glues and adhesives
17. Plumbing
18. Electrical work
19. Floor tile; wall tile
20. Wallpaper; plastic laminate; glass
21. Guide to remodeling measurements
22. Stair construction; gutters and downspouts
23. Masonry; lawn and garden chemicals
24. Useful mathematics

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, Ill. 60607 U.S.A. and SIMPSONS-SEARS LIMITED, Toronto

PREPARED BY THE EDITORS OF

Page 2

Page 3

Nails continued

*Figures in parentheses are gauge numbers

NAIL	PURPOSE	TYPE OF POINT	TYPE OF HEAD	SPECIAL FEATURES	*STANDARD SIZES
BOX
8d 21/2" grooved	General construction, carpentry	Diamond	Large flat	Available with grooved shank	3d (14½), 4d & 5d (14), 6d & 7d (12½), 8d (11½), 10d (10½), 16d (10), 20d (9)
BRICK SIDING 34"	Installation of brick siding	Diamond	Checkered flat	Galvanized and paint- ed to match siding. Available in red, black, buff	³ / ₄ " (13), ⁷ / ₈ " (13), 1" (13), 11/ ₄ " (13), 11/ ₂ " (13), 13/ ₄ " (13), 2" (13), 13/ ₄ " (13), 2" (121/ ₂ ), 21/ ₂ " (111/ ₂ )
CASING Barannin 8d	Fine finish work	Diamond	Deep coun- tersunk		4d (14), 6d (12½), 8d (11½), 10d (10½), 16d (10)
6d 21/2" grooved	General construction, carpentry	Diamond	Flat	Available with grooved shank	2d (15), 3d (14), 4d & 5d (12 ¹ / ₂ ), 6d & 7d (11 ¹ / ₂ ), 8d & 9d (10 ¹ / ₄ ), 10d & 12d (9), 16d (8), 20d (16), 30d (5), 40d (4), 50d (3), 60d (2)
CONCRETE AND MASONRY 134" 134" 21/2" fluted	Fastening into concrete, masonry	Diamond	Flat or square	Some with fluted shanks	Available in fractional lengths of 1/2" to 3" and in various gauge sizes
FLOORING 8d hardwood 2V/2" hardwood, grooved	Floor construction	Diamond or blunt	Deep coun- tersunk	Available in grooved shank to eliminate squeaks. These have flat countersunk heads and blunt points. Sizes: 6d, 7d, 8d—all 11½ ga.	Standard flooring nail: 8d (10). Hardwood floor- ing nail: 8d (111:2)
WALLBOARD 4d 11/2" grooved	Installing gyp- sum wallboard	Diamond	Flat	Smooth or grooved shank. Available also with coating for ex- tra holding power	Smooth shank: 4d (14), 5d (13½), 6d (13). Grooved shank: 1¼", 1¾", 1½"—all 12½ ga.
DUAL-HEAD	Temporary lum- ber construction	Diamond	Dual		6d (11½), 8d (10¼), 10d (9), 16d (8), 20d (6)
FINISHING CH-HANNE 8d	General con- struction, carpentry	Diamond	Brad		3d (15½), 4d (15), 6d (13), 8d (12½), 10d (11½)
INSULATION BUILDING BOARD	Installing insulation board	Needle	Flat	Available in barbed shank with diamond point	1¼" and 1¾" (17), 2″ (11)
ROOF- ING 1" Barbed	Roofing installation	Diamond	Large flat or umbrella	Available with grooved or barbed shanks and coated	Fractionally from 7%" to 2", usually in 11 ga.
FIBERBOARD	Fast nailing of soft materials	Needle	Flat	Available bright, gal- vanized or cadmium- plated	1", 1½", 1¼", 1¾", 1½", 1¾", 1¾"—ali 17 ga.
UNDERLAY	Installing floor underlayment	Diamond	Flat	Available with grooved shank	11⁄4″ (14)
WOOD SHINGLE	Installing shingles	Diamond	Flat	Available with grooved or barbed shank	3d (13), 3½d (12½), 4d (12)

Sheet 2

THERE'S ONLY ONE nail type and size that is the best for a particular job.

For general carpentry and construction, choose one of the general-purpose nails—common, box, casing and finishing nails.

All nails of a particular penny size are the same length, but diameters vary from one type to another. Box nails, for example, are smaller in diameter than common nails, so they are a good choice to use in a job where the wood may split.

Finishing nails have brad-type heads for use where countersinking is not important; casing nails have heads designed for counter-sinking.

You can order nails either by penny size or length, but penny size is the more common way to order. Here is the approximate number of common nails you receive per pound:

2d—847	8d—101	20d-30
3d—543	10d—66	30d—23
4d—296	12d—66	40d—17
6d—167	16d-47	60d—11

Special-purpose nails may appear confusing because they have such a variety of heads and points. Drywall (wallboard) nails, for example, have long "diamond" points so they'll penetrate the drywall cleanly and easily. Dual-head nails give you an extra piggyback head for easy removal when tearing apart concrete forms.

You also have your choice of materials from which nails are made. Common materials include steel, aluminum, copper and brass. To fasten a particular metal, use a nail of the same material. For example, use aluminum nails to secure aluminum gutters to aluminum siding. This reduces the corrosive action that occurs when different metals are placed in contact with each other.

Page 4

WHEN YOU BUY SCREWS, SPECIFY (1) LENGTH, (2) GAUGE NUMBER, (3) TYPE OF HEAD-FLAT ROUND OR OVAL, (4) MATERIAL-STEEL, BRASS BRONZE, ETC., (5) FINISH-BRIGHT STEEL BLUED CADMIUM NICKEL OR CHROMIUM PLATED

HEAD CHOICE is an important item in selecting the right screw for the job.

Two factors are important:
1. The shape of the head.
2. The style of head (slot configuration).

Shown above are the common head shapes. Lag screws, used in heavy construction where great holding power is required, usually have a square head (although some lag screws are made with hexagonal heads). In either case, the lag screw can be driven with a wrench, providing much more leverage than a screwdriver.

Fillister heads have a shoulder (see above), which elevates the slot above the work surface. This minimizes the possi-

bility of marring the wood with the screwdriver, and gives the driven screw a better appearance.

Oval heads must be countersunk into the surface, but the rounded top permits a deeper slot.

Round heads are one of the two most common types. These heads protrude more than other types, except fillister, but offer good slot depth and holding power.

Flat heads don't protrude above the surface. They can either be driven flush or slightly countersunk and concealed with wood putty or plugs.

The most common slot configurations include plain slotted screws; and Phillips screws, with a cross-shaped slot that permits maximum driving pressure.

MOST HOMEOWNERS are concerned with only two general types of screws wood screws and sheet-metal screws.

wood screws

Always use wood screws:

• When you require maximum holding power, such as hanging a door.

• When there's a chance you'll have to take the work apart some day. It's easier to back out a screw than pull a nail.

• When there's a chance you'll mar the piece of work while installing the fastener. You're safer driving a screw into a piece of work than hammering a nail.

• When you plan to leave the fastener exposed. Most screws, especially those selected for appearance, are more decorative than nails.

If your job doesn't fall into one of the above categories, use nails instead of screws. They're cheaper and easier to install.

screw sizes

Although you can get screws as long as 6 in. on special order, commonly available lengths range from ¹/₄ in. to 4 in. Below 1 in., lengths are available in increments of ¹/₈ in.; from 1 in. to 3 in. length goes up in ¹/₄-in. steps; above 3 in. this increases to ¹/₂-in. intervals.

Screw diameters are expressed in arbitrary numbers. Don't let this throw you. The numbers don't represent real measurements on any common scale. Your hardware store probably carries diameters ranging from No. 2 (.086 in.) to No. 18 (.294 in.). When in doubt, refer to the chart at the left, which shows the diameters actual size, with the proper gauge number beneath. Note, of course, that several different lengths are available in the same gauge number.

As for type of metal, steel and brass screws are the most common. Use steel for heavy work, brass for light ornamental work. Use plated or aluminum screws where there's a chance of corrosion.

sheet-metal screws

Sheet-metal screws (also called tapping screws or self-threading screws) are used to fasten pieces of metal together, or to attach objects to metal. They have sharp threads that cut their own grooves. (For a chart on such screws, see Sheet 4.)

Page 5

Screws continued

TYPE A sheet-metal screws have coarse threads and are used for joining pieces of sheet metal of gauges from .015 to .050 in. They are available in diameters ranging from Nos. 4 through 14 and in lengths from ¼ to 2 in. You can buy them with either style head, slotted or Phillips.

TYPE B sheet-metal screws can be used for the same applications as Type A screws, but they are recommended for the more rugged jobs involving joining sheet metal with gauges of from .050 to .200 in. They are available in the same diameters and lengths as Type A in both Phillips and slotted.

TYPE C screws differ from the first two types in that they have standard threads rather than coarse. Type C tapping screws are used for sheet-metal joining when the gauges range from .030 to .100 in. They are available in diameters ranging from ³/₁₆ in. to 1½ in.

TYPE F sheet-metal screws are used primarily for joining metals ranging in thickness from .050 in. all the way up to ½ in. They are sold in diameters from No. 2 to ¼ in. and in lengths from ½ in. to ¾ in. Like the three above types, you can get Type F screws with either Phillips or slotted heads.

TYPE U screws actually seem more like nails than screws. Their heads are not slotted because they're installed with a hammer rather than with a screwdriver. Type U screws are used with heavier-gauge metals—.050 in. to ½ in. and are made in lengths from 1% in. through ¾ in. One common use is attaching metal nameplates to sheet metal.

TYPE 21 sheet-metal screws are commonly used for fastening other materials to metal—fabrics, cardboard and leather, for instance. Like the type U screws, they have plain heads and are installed with a hammer. This type of screw is available in three lengths: ¹¹/32, ¹⁵/₆ and ¹/₂ in.

Selecting the right screwdriver is extremely important, as shown in the drawing above. The blade should be as near the length of the slot as possible. It should also be thick enough to fill the slot completely, yet thin enough to reach to the bottom. A worn blade, such as the one on the left, not only is difficult to use, but is likely to damage the slot. So is a blade that's too thin, as shown on the right. The middle view shows a blade that's just right for proper fit

SCREW SIZE	DRILL SIZE (No	. and Diameter
(No. and Diameter)	HARDWOODS	SOFTWOODS
0 (.060")	70 (1/32")
1 (.073")	66 (1/32")	71 (1/32")
2 (.086")	56 (3/64")	65 (1/32")
3 (.099")	54 (1/16")	58 (3/64")
4 (.112")	52 (1/16")	55 (3/64")
5 (.125")	49 (5/64")	53 (1/16")
6 (.138")	47 (5/64")	52 (1/16")
7 (.151")	44 (3/32")	51 (1/16")
8 (.164")	40 (3/32")	48 (5/64")
9 (.177")	37 (7/64")	45 (5/64")
10 (.190")	33 (7/64")	43 (3/32")
12 (.216")	30 (1/8")	38 (7/64")
14 (.242")	25 (9/64")	32 (7/64")
16 (.268")	18 (5/32")	29 (9/64")
18 (.294")	13 (3/16")	26 (9/64")
20 (.320")	4 (13/64")	19 (11/64")
24 (.372")	1 (7/32")	15 (3/16")

Nos. 0 and 1 screws. For sizes smaller than No. 6, lead holes can be eliminated in softwoods, except near the edges and ends of boards.

Useful tips

• When drilling lead holes in softwoods, such as pine or spruce, make them only half as deep as the threaded portion of the screw. If you're working with hardwoods —oak, maple or birch, for example—drill the lead hole as deep as the full length of the screw.

• Many craftsmen apply soap to the threads to make a screw easier to drive. DON'T do this. It isn't a good practice because, through a chemical reaction, the soap eventually turns to a form of glue and actually cements the screw into the hole. It also causes the screw to corrode. Later, if it becomes necessary, you may have trouble backing out the screw. You're better off using paraffin, graphite or beeswax on the threads. They work just as well as soap and involve less risk.

• A screw that's frozen in place often can be freed by heating it with the tip of a soldering iron.

• After you've backed out a screw, the hole that remains is slightly larger than that cut by the threads originally. Before you replace the screw, fill the hole with wood putty or use a plastic plug to provide a firm grip. Or use a larger screw when reassembling the work.

• There are two ways of removing a screw that has broken off in the hole. If you know the size of the screw, you can drill dead center into the screw with a drill that's the same size. This will clear the hole but it's somewhat risky because you have to drill absolutely straight in order not to mess up the core threads. If you don't know the size of the screw, and thus can't choose the right drill to remove it this way, try using a drill that's smaller than the diameter of the broken screw. Just drill a small hole in the end of the broken screw and then use a screw extractor. If you don't have a screw extractor, tap a squareend nail into the hole, and use the nail like an Allen wrench to back out the stub.

• Setting a screw into end grain reduces its holding power by 40 percent.

Page 6

Bolts, machine screws and washers

THE NOMENCLATURE of bolt-type fasteners tends to be confusing, And if you don't know what you want when you walk into a hardware store, you may have trouble getting it. The various types of bolts, shown at the left, are installed with nuts. Carriage bolts have a square shoulder under the head, that seats firmly into the wood workpiece. Stove bolts are available with the same types of slotted heads as wood screws, in diameters from 3/2 to 1/2 in., and in lengths from 3/8 to 6 in. Machine bolts have square or hexagonal heads, are installed with a wrench, and are usually

used if the parts to be joined are made of metal. When the nut for any of these bolts is turned down on wood, always use a flat washer under it (see chart of washers, bottom left).

Machine screws, shown in the chart below, are used for the assembly of metal parts, and usually are driven into tapped (threaded) holes rather than being drawn tight with nuts.

Stove bolts usually are carried in stock in standard sizes. Intermediate or extra-length bolts are often available on special order if not stocked. Machine and carriage bolts are ordinarily made with full-diameter shanks. The standard sizes generally are available at any well-stocked hardware store.

Sizes are designated by length in inches, by diameter in numbers of the American Screw

MACHINE SCREWS

Gauge for diameters less than 1/4", and in fractions of an inch for diameters 1/4" and larger. Designations are for sizes commonly used

TO DETERMINE DIAMETER.

COMPARE WIT

Machine screws-the commercial term for screws to be driven in drilled and tapped holes-are used for assembly of metal parts. Machine screws are regularly made in mild steel and brass, with four types of head-flat, round, oval and fillister. Furnished plain and also with commonly used platings and degrees of finish-nickel, brass, copper, cadmium, electrogalvanized, Parkerized and zinc-plated

13/4

11/2 "

TO DETERMINE THREAD MEASURE AND COUNT THE THREADS IN 1

Left, methods of determining diameter of body and number of threads per inch with ruler

			WAS	MERS
Outside	Size of	Thickness	Size of	Outside	Size of	Thic	kness	Size of
Dia.	Hole	Wire Gauge	Bolt	Dia.	Hole	Wire	Gauge	Bolt
3/4"	×6"	No. 16	1/4"	3"	13/8"	No.	8	11/4"
7/8"	3/8"	No. 16	×16"	31/4"	11/2"	No.	7	13/8"
1"	7/6"	No. 14	3/8**	31/2"	1 5/8"	No.	7	11/2"
11/4"	1/2"	No. 14	76"	33/4"	13/4"	No.	7	1 5%"
13%"	%6"	No. 12	1/2"	4"	1 7/8"	No.	7	13/4"
11/2"	5/8"	No. 12	%"	41/4"	2"	No.	7	11/8"
13/4"	11/16"	No. 10	5/8"	41/2"	21/8"	No.	7	2"
2"	13/16"	No. 9	3/4"	43/4"	23/8"	No.	5	21/4"
21/4"	13/16"	No. 8	7/8"	5"	25%"	No.	4	21/2"
21/2"	11/4"	No. 8	1"	51/4"	21/8"	No.	3	23/4"
23/4"	11/4"	No. 18	11/8"	51/2"	31/8"	No.	2	3"

tap size threads diameter per in.	drill size no.	drill diameter in inches
2 56	51	.0670
3 — 48	5⁄64″	.0781
4 40	43	.0890
6 32	36	.1065
8 32	29	.1360
10 24	25	.1495
12 — 24	17	.1730
1/4″ — 20	8	.1990
5/16" 18	F	.2570
3%" — 16	5⁄16″	.3125
½‴ — 13	27⁄64″	.4219

LENGT

Page 7

Wall fasteners continued on Sheet 7

working	Shield	Shield	WORK
Loads ) (Up to:)	Dia. (Inches)	Length (Inches)	Loa (Pour
500 800	3/16	{ 7/8	37
1000 1000 1500	1/4		20 24 32
2000 $ 2000 2 2300 4 2400	5/16	11/4 13/4 21/4 23/4	30 35 37 37
2500	3%8	{ 2 3¼	45
	1/2	21/4	52

41/4-41/2

Page 8

VARIATIONS AND IMPROVEMENTS

Sheet 7

CORNER BRACES

Miscellaneous hardware

SHELF BRACKET	FLAT CORNER I	RONS
This bracket is made of one piece of steel formed in such a way as to provide maximum strength. Design permits full use of space between shelves Size: 3" X 4", 4" X 5", 5" X 6", 5" X 7", 6" X 8" 7" X 9", 8" X 10", 10" X 12", 12" X 14"	Size (length of each leg and 2" X ¾", 2½" X ½", 3" X ½", 3½" X ¾", 3½" X ¾"	d width): 1½" X ¾" 3" X ‰", 3½" X ½",	(length each leg): 1″, 1½″, 2″, 2½″, 3″, 3½″, ″, 6″, 8″, 10″
CORNER IRON		w ~	ENDING PLATE
Length (inches)	Width Number of (inches) screw holes
	% 4 % 4	Length Width (inches) (inches)	Number of screw holes
2½ 3 3½	% 4 3/4 4 3/4 4	3 72 3 76 4 76	4
4 5 6 8 10	% 4 1 6 1% 10	5 54 6 34 8 74 10 1 12 11/4	4 4 4 6 6

Page 9

Drill sizes

OF ALL THE COMMON tools, twist drills are most difficult to specify because they are sized in three different ways:

Some sizes are expressed in numbers , some in letters , and some in fractions (representing fractions of an inch). To add to the problem, the three categories are mixed together.

However, the sizing chart at the far right should unscramble this for you. It shows, from top to bottom of succeeding columns, the twist drill sizes from the smallest to the largest, with their corresponding decimal equivalents. Unless you're a machinist, you won't be using all of these sizes, and if you're an average homeowner you probably can get along with those listed by fractions. However, the number and letter sizes are available if you want to do really precision work.

And that's the kind of work you must do if you plan on tapping (threading a hole) into metal. The chart at the immediate right shows you the twist drill to use to drill the hole in preparation for tapping.

As a general guide, the larger the twist drill, the slower you should operate it.

Abrasives

GRIT	ABR EQUIV. "O" SERIES	GENERAL DESCRIPTION
600	-
500	-		TRODUCES HIGH SATIN FIRISH
400	10/0	SUPER-	GENERAL RANGE OF ABRASIVE
360	-		PAPERS USED FOR WET
320	9/0		VARNISH TOP COATS
280	8/0
240	7/0	FINE	USED FOR DRY SANDING
220	6/0*		ALL FINISHING UNDERCOATS. THESE GRADES WILL NOT
180	5/0		SHOW SANDING MARKS
150	4/0*	FINE	FOR FINAL SANDING OF BARE WOOD, GOOD FOR SMOOTHING
120	3/0		OLD PAINT
100	2/0*	MEDIUM	USE FOR GENERAL WOOD SANDING.
80	1/0		OLD PAINT, PLASTER PATCHES
60	1/2*		USE No. 1/2 FOR ROUGH-WOOD
50	1	COARSE	SANDING. No. 1 IS COARSEST
40	11/2		TO ADVANTAGE WITH PAD SANDER
36	2		ALL TOO COARSE FOR PAD
30	21/2	COARSE	REQUIRE HEAVY MACHINES AND
24	3		HIGH SPEED TO CUT WELL
*Gra	des general	ly supplied as	Very Fine, Fine, Medium and Coarse

TAP DRILL SIZES						DECIMAL EQUIVALENTS of fraction, wire gauge and letter size drills
NATI	ONAL COARSE	AND FINE THE	EADS	TAPE	R PIPE	DRILL	DECIMAL	DRILL	DECIMAL	DRILL	DECIMAL		DECIMAL
THREAD	DRILL	THREAD	DRILL	THREAD	DRILL	80	.0135	42	.0935	13/64	.2031	x	.3970
0-80	3	7	EL.	1. 07		79	.0145	3/32	.0938	6	.2040	Y	.4040
1-64-	NO 53	7 20	75/	1/8-2/	R	1/64	.0156	41	.0960	5	.2055	13/32	.4062
1.72	No 53	16-20	**/64	3/4-18	37/64	78	.0160	40	.0980	4	.2090	Z	.4130
1-72	NO. 53	1/2-12	* '/64	1/2-14	23/32	76	.0200	38	.1015	7/32	.2188	7/16	4219
2-56	NO. 50	1/2-13	27/64	3/4-14	59/64	75	.0210	37	.1040	2	.2210	29/64	.4531
2-64	NO. 50	1/z-20	29/64	1-111/2	15/32	74	.0225	36	.1065	1	.2280	15/32	4688
3-48	NO 47	⁹ 16-12	31/64	11/4-111/2	11/2	73	.0240	7/64	.1094	A	.2340	31/84	.4844
3-56	NO 45	9 ₁₆ -18	33/64	11/2-111/2	147/64	71	.0260	35	.1100	15/64	.2344	1/2	.5000
4-40	NO 43	5 ₈ -11	17 32	214-8	25%	70	.0280	33	.1130	G	.2420	33/84	.5156
4-48	NO 42	5 ₈ -18	37/84	3-8	31/4	69	.0292	32	.1160	D	.2460	35/-	5312
5-40	NO 38	34-10	21/32	31/2-8	33/4	68	.0310	31	.1200	1/4	.2500	9/16	5625
5-44	NO 37	3,-16	11/10	4-8	41/4	1/32	0320	1/8	.1250	E	.2500	37/64	.5781
6-32	No. 36	7/9	49/4	-	1000000	66	.0330	29	.1360	F	.2570	19 32	.5938
6-40	NO 33	7/14	13/	STRAIG	IT PIPE	65	.0350	28	.1405	17/64	.2656	39/84	.6094
8.32	No 29	1.9	/16	THREAD	DRILL	64	.0360	9/64	.1406	н	.2660	5/8	6406
0.36	NO 20	1-0	78			62	.03/0	27	.1440	I	.2720	21 32	.6562
0-30	NO 29	1-12	···/64	1/8-27	S	61	.0390	25	.14/0	J	.2770	43/64	.6719
10-24	NO. 25	1-14	58/64	1/4-18	29/64	60	.0400	24	.1520	K 0/32	.2810	11/16	.6875
10-32	NO. 21	11/8-7	63/84	- % -18	10/32	59	.0410	23	.1540	9/32	2900	45/64	.7031
12-24	NO. 16	11/8-12	13/64	3/4-14	15/14	57	.0420	5/32	.1562	м	.2950	47/4	7344
12-28	NO. 14	11/4-7	17/64	1-1114	13/16	56	.0465	22	.1570	19/64	.2969	3/4	7500
1/4-20	No. 7	11/4-12	111/64	11/4-111/2	133/84	3/64	.0469	20	.1590	N	.3020	49/84	.7656
1/4-28	NO.3	13%-6	17/32	11/2-111/2	13/4	55	.0520	19	.1660	5/16	.3125	25 32	.7812
5/16-18	F	13/1-12	119/44	2-111/2	27/32	54	.0550	18	.1695	0	.3160	51/64	.7969
5/14-24	1	114-6	111/	21/2-8	221/32	53	.0995	11/64	.1719	21/64	.3281	13/16	8125
34-16	5/10	114-12	1274	3-8	39/32	1/16	.0625	17	.1730	Q	.3320	27	.8438
N 24		13/ 5	10/84	3-7-0	494-	51	.0670	15	1800	R	.3390	55/64	.8594
78-24		1-/4-3	1"/16	+0	-/32	50	.0700	14	.1820	11/32	.3438	7/8	.8750
						49	.0730	13	.1850	S	.3480	57/64	.8906
						48	.0760	3/16	.1875	23/64	3594	29 32	.9062
						5/64	0781	12	.1890	U	.3680	15/16	9375
						46	.0810	10	.1935	3/8	.3750	61/44	.9531
						45	.0820	9	.1960	v	.3770	31/32	.9688
			59°	1		44	.0860	8	.1990	W	.3860	63/64	.9844
-	a		and the second second	0777		43	.0890	7	.2010	25/64	.3906	1	1.0000

Twist drills, for general use, should be sharpened at an angle of 59° as shown

HANDWORK	TYPE OF PAPER	GARNET AND ALUMINUM OXIDE	SILICON CARBIDE
First sanding, woodwork Second sanding, woodwork Dry sanding sealers and finishes between coats Wet sanding sealers and finishes between coats Rubbing down after finish coat	Cabinet Cabinet Finishing Waterproof finishing Waterproof finishing	Coarse or medium Medium Medium to very fine	Very fine Very fine

IN SELECTING AN ABRASIVE there are six minerals and two backings from which to choose. The secret of a good finishing job is choosing the right combination. Among the minerals, flint is the least durable and least expensive. Garnet is slightly better, but don't use it in a power sander. Aluminum oxide is a synthetic, good for all-around use. Silicon carbide , another synthetic, shiny black in color, is good for wet sanding of primers, undercoats and floors. Emery cloth , a dull black, is used for light polishing and for removing rust and scale from metal. Crocus cloth , made of iron oxide, comes in only one grade—very fine—and gives metal a mirror-like finish.

Paper backings are available in A, C, D and E weights, increasing in weight (thickness) in that order. Cloth backing comes in X and J weights, with the heavier X weight preferred for most machine-sanding jobs around the house.

Grits are designated in one of two ways. Their equivalents, and suggestions for use, are shown in the table at the left.

Page 10

Lumber

	STANDARI	O SIZES	OF LUMBER
TYPE OF LUMBER	NOMINAI (in inc	L SIZE A	ACTUAL S AT COMM. DR (in incl	IZE S4S Y SHP. WT. hes)
	Thickness	Width	Thickness	Width
	2	4	15%	35%
	2	6	15%	55%
Dimension	2	8	15%	71/2
	2	10	1 5/8	91/2
	2	12	15/8	111/2
	4	6	35/8	51/2
	4	8	35/8	71/2
	4	10	35/8	91/2
Timbers	6	6	51/2	51/2
A milliours	6	8	51/2	71/2
	6	10	51/2	91/2
	8	8	71/2	71/2
	8	10	71/2	91/2
	1	4	25/32	35%
Common	1	6	25/32	55%
Boards	1	8	25/32	71/2
	1	10	25/32	91/2
	1	12	25/32	111/2
	1	4	25/32	* 31/8
Shinlan	1	6	25/32	* 51/8
Boards	1	8	25/32	* 71/8
Dourus	1	10	25/32	* 91/8
	1	12	25/32	*111/8
Tongued	1	4	25/32	* 31/4
and	1	6	25/32	* 51/4
Grooved	1	8	25/32	* 71/4
Roards	1	10	25/32	* 91/4
Duarus	1	12	25/32	*111/4
*-Width at	face	Cou	rtesy Weyerhaer	iser Sales Co.

LUMBER IS GRADED into two categories, select and common . Select is clear, meaning it has virtually no defects. But select grades are also available in order of decreasing quality, A, B, C and D. Most lumberyards combine the first two as "B and Better" which is the best lumber you can buy. Common lumber has defects which prevent a natural finish. It is graded by number, 1, 2, 3 and 4. Numbers 1 and 2 can usually be painted without waste.

WHEN YOU ORDER LUMBER, specify it correctly. If you decide you need 10 No. 2 white pine boards, measuring 1 x 8 in. and 10 ft. long, ask for: "10 8-ft. 1 x 8s, No. 2 white pine." Your shipping ticket likely will read: "10 8 1 x 8 No2 com pine 54 ft." The figure 54 is the total board feet in your order.

TIPS ON BUYING. Order the lowest grade that fits your needs. If you have a cooperative dealer, you can upgrade lumber yourself by sorting through the stacks; a No. 2 board, specially selected, sometimes will be as good as a select board. You usually can't buy a 7-ft. board; if you need two 7-footers, order one 14-ft. board and cut it in half. If possible, shop on weekdays for dealer cooperation.

THE BIGGEST SECRET of saving money on lumber is to know the least expensive grade that will do your job, and how to specify it. First, the nomenclature: Any piece of lumber less than 2 in. thick and at least 8 in. wide is called a board . A piece of lumber less than 2 in. thick and less than 8 in. wide is called a strip . Dimension lumber , used in heavy framing, is more than 2 in. and less than 5 in. thick, in any width (most dimension lumber is'2 in. thick and 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12 in. wide). Timbers are 4 in. or more on the smallest dimension.

All of the above lumber items usually are available in lengths from 6 to 20 ft. in standard multiples of 2 ft.

LUMBER IS SIZED as it comes from the saw. Therefore the dimensions are rough. Thus a 2 x 4 actually measures 2 in. by 4 in., but rapidly dwindles in size as the planer surfaces it. The same 2 x 4, when it reaches the lumberyard, actually measures 15% x 35% in. A board which is nominally 1 in. thick and 8 in. wide ends up measuring 34 in. x 75% in. However, these are very close approximations . There may be slight variations, particularly in the width of a board, due to swelling or shrinkage. See the chart at left.

YOU ARE CHARGED for lumber by the board foot . To visualize a board foot, think of a piece of rough-sawed lumber measuring 1 in. thick, 12 in. wide and 12 in. long. A strip 1 in. thick, 6 in. wide and 24 in. long contains an equivalent volume of lumber—1 board foot. Likewise a 2 x 4 12 ft. long contains 8 board feet. See the chart below. If you buy any quantity of lumber, you'll be quoted a price per 1000 board feet.

TOTAL WOOD PRODUCTS FROM A TYPICAL LOG FINISH ITEMS BOARDS

(Lumber of good appearance and finishing)

SUITABLE FOR NATURAL FINISHES

Grade A (practically free from defects) Grade B (allows a few small defects or blemishes)

SUITABLE FOR PAINT FINISHES Grade C

(allows a limited number of small defects or blemishes that can be covered with paint) Grade D

(allows any number of defects or blemishes which do not detract from the appearance of the finish especially when painted)

(Lumber containing defects or blemishes which detract from the appearance of the finish but suitable for general-utility and construction purposes)

SUITABLE WITHOUT WASTE

No. 1 Boards

(sound and tight-knotted stock; size of defects and blemishes limited; may be considered watertight lumber)

No. 2 Boards

(allows large and coarse defects; may be considered graintight lumber)

LUMBER PERMITTING WASTE

No. 3 Boards

(allows larger and coarser defects than No. 2 and occasional knot holes)

No. 4 Boards

(low-quality lumber admitting the coarsest defects, such as decay and holes)

(must hold together under ordinary handling)

Page 11

Properties of common woods

General Characteristics Note: NGR = Non-Grain Raising (Applies to stain)
Name of Wood	tht Per	ness	ing and	ng	ing	E.	l Grain e	5	Stain	Color	F		le
	Weig	Hard	Plani	Turni	Sand	Natur Color	Usual Figur	Type	Color	Filler	Bleach	Paint	Natura	Remarks
Ash (U.S.A.)	35	Med	Good 10-25	Fair	Best 2/0	White to Brown	Plain or Fiddleback	Any	Any	White or Brow	n Yes	Yes. Fill First	Yes	A tough, grainy wood quite uniform in color. Bends quite easily when steamed. Will take stain, but finishes best in natural color
Basswood	24	Soft	Good 20-30	Poor	Poor 4/0	Cream	Very Mild	NGR	Red or Brown	None	Not Nec.	Yes	No	Light, softwood usually uniform in color. Fine tex- ture, fairly strong, takes paint well. Used for drawing boards and as veneered core stock
Birch	39	Hard	Good 15-20	Good	i Fair 4/0	Cream	Mild	Any	Walnut or Mahogany	Natural or Brown	n Yes	Yes. Interior	Yes	Similar in texture to hard maple. Takes the maple finish well. Widely used in furniture construction. Fairly uniform color
Butternut	25	Soft	Good 10-25	Good	Fair 4/0	Heart: Amber Sap: Cream	Like Walnut	Water	Walnut or Oak	Medium Brown	Yes	No	Yes	Similar in grain and texture to black walnut. Rel- atively easy to work with hand and power tools, except as noted
Cherry	36	Med.	Best 10-25	Best	Best 4/0	Red to Brown	Good	Water	Red or Brown	Red to Black	No	No	Yes	One of the finest domestic cabinet woods. Fine texture, dense grain, often wavy or curly. Takes natural, stain, fine enamel finishes
Cedar (Aromatic Red)	23	Soft	Poor 5-15	Fair	Good 3/0	Heart: Red Sap: Cream	Knotty	N	one	None	No	No	Yes. Pref.	Universally used for cedar chests and clothes- closet linings, also novelties. Finishes best in its natural color
Chestnut	27	Soft	Good 15-20	Best	Best 3/0	Gray- Brown	Heavy Grain	Oil or Wiping	Red or Brown	Red or Brown	No	Yes	Yes	Rather coarse grained, often worm-holed. Used as picture frames and sometimes as random pan- eling. Machines well, takes novelty finishes
Cypress	29	Soft	Good 15-25	Poor	Fair 2/0	Heart: Brown Sap: Cream	Plain or Figured	Water, Oil or Wiping	Red or Brown	None	No	Yes	Yes	Tends to splinter when worked by hand or ma- chine. Most durable in outdoor exposures. Will take natural or novelty finishes quite well
Elm (Southern)	34	Med.	Poor 15-20	Poor	Good 2/0	Brown to Cream	Heavy Grain	Water	Red or Brown	Dark Brown	No	Yes	Yes	A good furniture wood but difficult to work either by hand or machine. Takes stain fairly well. Some pieces attractively grained
Fir (Douglas)	26	Soft	Fair 10-25	Poor	Fair 3/0	Cream to Red	Plain or Wild	Wiping or Oil	Brown	None	No	Yes	No	Widely used in home construction, especially framing. Universally available as plywood in vary- ing thicknesses. Best sealed and painted
Gum (Red)	33	Med.	Fair 10-20	Best	Fair 4/0	Heart: Br. Red Sap: Cream	Plain or Figured	Any	Red or Brown	Match Wood	Yes	Yes	Yes	Dense-grained wood, smooth texture. Occasional attractive figure in heartwood, easily worked. Widely used in furniture construction
Hickory	42	Hard	Good 10-25	Good	Best 2/0	White to Cream	Usually Straight	Water	Red or Brown	Brown	Yes	No	Yes	Among best domestic woods for steam bending, tool handles. Usually straight grained and of a fairly uniform color and texture
Holly	33	Hard	Good 10-25	Good	Best 3/0	Silver White	Mild	Water	Amber	None	Not Nec.	Yes	Yes	Similar to basswood in color and texture. Works easily. Can be stained. Once widely used in inlay and marquetry in early construction
Mahogany	35	Med.	Good 5-25	Best	Good 4/0	Brown to Red-Brown	Stripe	Water	Red or Brown	Red to Black	Yes	No	Yes	One of the choicest cabinet woods. Select pieces beautifully grained. Works easily. Takes both red and brown stains. An imported wood
(Philippine)	33	Med.	Good 5-25	Good	Poor 3/0	Brown to Red-Brown	Stripe	Water or Wiping	Red or Brown	Red to Black	Yes	Νο	Yes	Similar to true mahoganies but coarser in grain and softer. Serves well as boat planking, also used as trim and in core-door construction
Maple	41	Hard	Fair 15-20	Good	Good 4/0	Cream	Varied	Water and Wiping	Maple	None	Yes	No	Yes	One of the best domestic hardwoods. Widely used in fine furniture construction, also as flooring, turnings, bowling pins
Oak (English Brown)	40	Hard	Best 10-20	Good	Good 2/0	Deep Brown	Plain, Flake or Swirl	NGR	Brown	Brown to Black	Yes	No	Yes	One of the finest of the oaks. An imported wood, most commonly available as veneer. Very attrac- tively grained. Takes stains well
Oak (Red)	39	Hard	Best 10-25	Good	Best 2/0	Red-Brown	Plain or Flake	NGR	Green Toner	Brown	Yes	Yes	No	Perhaps the most common of the domestic oaks. Heavy, strong and tough. Open-grained, used in furniture where durability comes first
Oak (White)	40	Hard	Best 10-20	Good	Best 2/0	White to Light Brown	Plain or Flake	NGR	Brown	Brown	Yes	Yes	Yes	Perhaps the finest domestic oak of exceptional strength and durability. Beautiful graining when quarter-sawed. Takes fine finishes
Pine (White)	25	Soft	Good 10-25	Good	Fair 2/0	White to Cream	Mild	Water or Oil	Brown Only	None	No	Yes	No	One of the most popular woods almost universally used for trim, paneling and furniture. Perhaps the best all around domestic softwood
Poplar	29	Soft	Good 5-20	Good	Poor 4/0	White to Cream	Occ. Dark Stripe	NGR	Brown	None	No	Yes	No	Another of the most useful domestic softwoods. Widely used as a secondary wood in both early and late furniture construction
Redwood	29	Soft	Good 10-25	Fair	Poor 2/0	Red	Mild St. Grain	Red for to	only ning	None	No	Yes	Yes	An exceptionally durable softwood when used in outdoor applications as house siding, outdoor fur- niture, fencing, industrial applications
Sycamore	35	Med.	Poor 5-15	Good	Poor 3/0	White to Pink	Flake	Water	Amber or Brown	None	Seldom	Yes	Yes	Difficult to work with either hand or power tools. Beautiful, flaky grain when quarter-sawed. Most attractive in natural finish
Walnut	36	Med.	Good 15-20	Best	Best 4/0	Heart: Brown Sap: Cream	Varied	Water	Walnut	Brown to Black	Yes	No	Yes	Rated by most as the finest domestic cabinet wood. Used by best cabinetmakers from earliest

Notes on Working Properties and Finishing

These data on working properties and finishing of woods are based a jointer or molding head. Of course, these values are not critical on results of experimental work at Forest Products Laboratory. Entries and remarks can be only average. As an example pounds-per-cubicfoot are given for samples of dry wood. The figure can vary, even in samples cut from the same tree and reduced to the same moisture content. Figures under "Sanding" refer generally to grades of sandpaper that will not leave scratches on the surface when smooth-sanding as the final step. These, too, are variable values. On some samples of a given wood you may have to go to an even finer grade of paper to achieve desirable results. Figures given under the heading "Planing and Jointing" refer to cutting angles of edge tools that have been found generally best, especially for power tools with cutters such as

except perhaps in some phases of factory production. As another ex-ample, finishing data given for Douglas fir states under "Stain" that the color may be brown. This can be any shade of brown from light to dark. But few samples of fir, either of plywood or solid stock, are light or very dark stain. This wood generally appears at its best when sealed, with the special sealer provided for the purpose, and painted

In the entries "Oil" refers to a penetrating oilstain; "Wiping" refers to a wiping stain, usually an oilstain. Bleaching is not always necessary except possibly for uniforming the color of a given piece of wood.

Page 12

Mouldings patterns and sizes

The cross-sections show some of the more common patterns, although it is not exhaustive. You can order mouldings by specifying the WP (white pine) number.

Page 13

HALF LAP THROUGH SINGLE

DOVETAIL JOINTS

HALF BLIND

STOPPED LAP

BLIND MITER

THROUGH MULTIPLE

in time, as the wood dries out. A coped joint prevents this from being obvious. You cut the reverse shape of one strip to coincide with the profile of the other. To make such a joint, cut one strip at a 45-deg, angle, then use the edge as a pattern to cut the other strip with a coping saw.

Page 14

Wood finishes

PLANNED FINISHING SCHEDULES are just as important for home-shop projects as they are in production work. With a schedule written down, you checkmark each step as it's finished; you keep track of drying time; you know what's on the wood and what's yet to be applied.

Open-grain woods, oak, walnut, mahogany, others—brush or spray application, single-stain system, in nine steps:

Brush or spray NGR (non-grain-raising) stain. Dry 20-30 min. Brush or spray wash (thinned) coat of lacquer or white shellac. Dry 10-20 min. Sand with 6-0 garnet sandpaper. Dust thoroughly. Fill grain with paste wood filler in desired color. Dry thoroughly. Brush or spray sanding sealer. Dry 1 hr. Sand with 6-0 garnet. Dust thoroughly. Apply second sealer coat. Sand as before and dust off. Spray or brush two coats clear lacquer or one of any varnish. Lacquer must dry overnight; varnish 48 hr. Finally, rub satin-smooth with rubbing compound or 4-0 steel wool. Dust and wipe clean.

Open-grain woods, double-stain system in seven steps:

Brush or spray NGR stain, Dry 20-30 min. Fill with paste wood filler. Dry 24 hr. Apply sanding sealer. Dry 1 hr. Sand with 6-0 garnet and dust. Apply second coat of sealer. Sand as before. Brush pigmented wiping stain a shade darker than NGR used. Wipe with lintless cloth after 4 to 10 min. Continue wiping to desired color. Apply top coats of varnish or lacquer and rub down.

Close-grain woods, birch, maple, cherry, others—lacquer system in five steps:

Brush or spray NGR stain. Spray sanding sealer. Dry 1 hr. Sand with 6-0 garnet. Dust thoroughly. Spray or brush 2-3 coats clear gloss lacquer. Sand between coats with 6 or 8-0 garnet or Wet-or-dry paper. Dry 24 hr. Rub down to satiny surface with compound or 4-0 steel wool. Dust and wipe clean.

Close-grain woods, double-stain system, in six steps:

Brush NGR stain. Dry 1 hr. Sand very lightly with 6-0 garnet. Brush pigmented wiping stain of slightly darker shade. Dry at least 1 hr. Brush sanding sealer and dry 1 hr. or longer. Sand with 6-0 garnet and dust thoroughly. Brush two coats of clear lacquer or

one coat of any varnish. Rub to satin-smooth surface with compound or 4-0 steel wool and wipe clean.

Schedule for finishing open and closegrain woods in same piece:

Spray or brush NGR stain in desired color. Dry ½ hr. Apply paste wood filler to all opengrain wood and to end grain of close-grained wood. Dry 24 hr. Brush pigmented wiping stain of color matching filler on close-grained wood only. Dry 24 hr. Brush sanding sealer. Dry 1 hr. Sand with 6-0 garnet. Repeat above two steps. Spray or brush pigmented wiping over entire piece, wiping and blending color while stain is still wet. Dry 1 hr. (Alternate procedure: Spray or brush diluted wiping stain or shading stain. Do not wipe.) Apply finish coats of varnish or lacquer and rub down.

Alternate schedule for finishing open and close-grained woods in same piece:

Spray or brush NGR stain to lighter wood (sapwood) only. Wipe immediately with cloth dampened in alcohol to uniform the color. Dry 20 min. Brush NGR stain lightly on darker wood, heavily on lighter wood. Dry 1/2 hr. or more. Spray lacquer wash (diluted) coat over all. Dry 2 hr. Sand lightly with 6-0 garnet. Dust. Fill open-grained wood with paste filler. Reduce filler 1 part to two parts with naptha. Apply to close-grained wood only. Wipe off any excess and allow to dry 24 hr. Spray or brush sanding sealer. Dry 1 hr. If further color toning seems necessary, apply diluted wiping stain and wipe to desired shade. Dry 24 hr. Brush on top coats and rub down.

Light tone coloring system; spray application on selected "white" woods, birch, poplar, basswood, maple:

Spray uniform coat blond lacquer. Strap two coats water-white lacquer. (Other colors can be applied in this manner, gray, cream, or shades of green. Use deep tans and grays on dark woods.)

Coloring system, brush application:

Brush blond, platinum or wheat-colored pigmented wiping stain and allow to dry until slightly tacky. Wipe off lightly with a lintless cloth. Dry at least 4 hr. Top-coat with varnish or better, water-white brushing lacquer.

Bleach system, open-grain woods (attractive light finishes on the darker woods):

Mix one part (solution No. 1) of a twosolution bleach with two parts No. 2 solution. Apply with rubber sponge. (Warning: wear rubber gloves and protect eyes from spatters.) Rinse off after 2 hr. and allow 12-24 hr. to dry. Sand lightly with 6-0 garnet and dust. Apply paste wood filler and wipe to desired shade. Dry 24 hr. Sand lightly. Apply sealer. Again sand with 6-0 garnet and dust. Finish with two or more top coats.

Bleach system, close-grained woods:

Bleach as above. Dry 24 hr. Sand lightly with 6-0 garnet and dust. Brush or spray wiping stain in wheat, suntan or platinum. Allow to stand until stain just begins to flat, then wipe to desired tone. Dry 24 hr. Brush sanding sealer. Dry 1 hr. Sand with 6-0 garnet and dust. Brush or spray two coats waterwhite lacquer. Rub down to satin finish.

Urea-alkyd (catalyst finish), a hard durable coating for table and bar tops:

Stain with NGR stain to desired color. (Don't use pigmented wiping stain). Mix two-part finishing material according to instructions on container. Apply with brush or spray. Dry as directed. Sand with 6-0 garnet and dust. Apply a second coat and dry 24 hr. Rub down with 4-0 steel wool.

Salad-bowl finish, a wax-resin finishing material for salad bowls and wooden-ware:

Spray impregnating sealer directly on smooth-sanded wood. Dry 1 hr. or as directed. Sand with 6 or 8-0 paper. Dust. Spray 1-2 coats of salad-bowl lacquer. (This is a lacquer system and materials must be sprayed. Brushing materials also are available.)

Pickled pine, gray color with overcast of white:

Apply NGR gray stain. Brush sanding sealer or 2-lb.-cut white shellac. Follow with coat of white pigmented wiping stain. This can be wiped clean or left streaked, or wiped across grain, producing "smoked" effect. Dry 24 hr. Sand very lightly and dust. Brush or spray 2-lb. white shellac or any of the common clear synthetic finishes. Rub down with 4-0 steel wool and apply paste wax. Rub to satin finish.

Note: Although not specified above a somewhat higher quality and more nearly true pickled-pine finish can be achieved by first bleaching the wood to attain a more or less uniform color before applying any of the given finishing materials.

Page 15

Plywood

NEW PLYWOOD STANDARDS make it easy to select a panel for a specific job. Study the letters designating the veneer grades, right, and the information shown on the backstamp of each panel, bottom right. The "species group number" on the stamp actually is an indication of stiffness; the lower the number, the stiffer the panel. Most common width of panel, 4 ft.; lengths, 8, 10 and 12 ft.; thicknesses, ³/₁₆, then ¹/₄ to ³/₄ in. by ¹/₈-in. jumps. Use charts below to select exactly what you need.

Selecting for appearance Description and Most Common Uses For interior applications where both sides will be on NT-DFPA r interior applications where both sides will be on ew. Built-ins, cabinets, furniture and partitions. Face smooth and suitable for painting. D A-B D For interior uses where the appearance of only one side is important. Paneling, built-in, shelving, partitions. D Interior utility panel for use where one smooth side is reauired. Good for backing, sides or built-ins. Industry: D Rough-sawn, brushed, grooved or striated faces. Good D Hardboard face on both sides. For countertops, shelv ing, cabinet doors, flooring. Hardboard faces may be tempered, untempered, smooth or screened. PLYRON A-A EXT-DFPA* В Exterior use where the appearance of only one side is important. Sidings, soffits, fences, structural uses, box-car and truck lining and farm buildings. Tanks, trays, An outdoor utility panel for farm service and work build ings. boxcar and truck linings, containers, tanks, agri в Exterior type High Density Overlay plywood with hard semi-opaque resin-fiber overlay. Abrasion resistant. acinting not ordinarily required. For concrete forms, signs, acid tanks, cabinets, countertops. EXT-DFPA Exterior type Medium Density Overlay with smooth, opaque resin-fiber overlay heat-fused to one or both panel faces. Ideal base for paint. Usually recom-mended for siding and other outdoor applications. Also good for built-ins, signs and displays. Grade designation covers proprietary plywood products for exterior siding, fencing, etc., with special surface treatment such as V-groove, channel groove, striated, brushed, rough sawn. Exterior panel surfaced both sides with hardboard for use in exterior applications. Faces are tempered Exterior type plywood made only with Douglas fir o Western larch. Special solid jointed core construction Subject to special limitations on core gaps and numbe of face repairs. Ideal for bast hulls. Also available with В SPECIAL Premium Exterior panel similar to Marine grade but in В

VENEER GRADE

N "Natural finish" veneer, all heartwood or sapwood. Free of open defects. A Smooth and paintable with neatly made repairs. Also used for natural finish
- in less demanding applications.
B Solid surface veneer with circular repair plugs and tight knots
C Knotholes to 1", occasional knotholes ½" larger permitted providing total width of all knots within a specified section does not exceed certain limits. Limited splits permitted. Minimum veneer permitted in Exterior-type plywood.
C Improved C veneer with splits limited to 1/8" in width; knotholes and borer Plgd, holes limited to 1/4" by 1/2". D Permits knots to 21/2" in width and 1/2" larger under certain specified limits.
D Permits knots to 2½" in width and ½" larger under certain specified limits. Limited splits permitted.

Selecting for construction Description and Most Common Uses Back INT-DFPA (4) For construction where unusual moisture condition may be encountered. Often used for pallets, crate bins, etc. that may be exposed to the weather. onsanaea sruccurai grades where plywood strength properties are of maximum importance. Structural diaphragms, box beams, gusset plates, stressed skin panels. Also for containers, pallets, bins. Made only with Exterior glue. Structural I limited NT-DFPA NTERIOR UNDER-LAYMENT Used in homes, apartments, mobile homes, nercial buildings. Ply beneath face is C or reneer. Sanded or touch-sanded as specified D For utility built-ins, backing for wall and ceiling tile. Not a substitute for Underlayment. Ply be-neath face permits D grade veneer. Also for cable D INT-DFPA (4) earn face permits D grad eels, walkways, separate ouch-sanded as specified. Combination subfloor-underlayment. Quality base for resilient floor coverings, carpeting, wood stri flooring. Use 2-4-1 with Exterior glue in area subject to excessive moisture. Unsanded or touch sanded as specified. 2-4-1 INT-DFPA (5) EXT-DFPA (4) buildings. Backing, cable reels. where unusual moisture conditions exist. For re-frigerated or controlled atmosphere rooms. Also for pallets, fruit pallet bins, reusable cargo containers, C-C PLUGGED С OR Sanded or touch-sanded as specified STRU XTERIC For engineered applications in construction and in-dustry where full Exterior type panels made with all Group 1 woods are required. Unsanded. TURAL I С C-C PLYFORM CLASS I & II B-B Concrete form grades with high re-use factor. Sanded both sides. Edge-sealed and mill-oiled un-less otherwise specified. Special restrictions on в B species. Also available in HDO Notes: (1) All Interior grades shown also available with Exterior (1) All interior grades shown also available with Exterior glue. (2) All grades except Plyform available tongue and grooved in panels ½% and thicker. (a) Branches 1/2" and thicker. (3) Panels are standard 4x8-foot size. Other sizes available. (4) Available in Group 1, 2, 3 or 4. (5) Available in Group 1, 2 or 3 only. Species Group Number Designates the type of plywood GROUP EXTERIOR Designates the type of plyw A-C • G-1 • EXT-DFPA • 000 • PS 1-66 The sign of a tested

Page 16

Hardboard

HARDBOARD IS MADE with hundreds of different embossed and overlaid faces, but the most common types of hardboard still are: standard —light brown with one smooth surface; tempered dark brown, suitable for exterior use; underlayment —for use under floor coverings; embossed —with a patterned surface; prefinished —with a coated surface that looks like fine hardwood. For

use in privacy screens and other applications where both sides show, you also can buy hardboard smooth-surfaced on both sides, or cut in attractive filigree patterns. Hardboard is available (in some cases only on special order) in widths of 2, 4 and 5 ft.; lengths from 2 to 16 ft.; and thicknesses ¹/₈ to ⁵/₁₆ in., in ¹/₁₆-in. jumps.

HARDBOARD PANELING can be installed on a reasonably sound existing wall, directly to the studding of new work, or to furring strips. The drawings at right show three common types of installation. You also can buy special nails, clips and locking strips to help in installation, and metal mouldings to cover exposed edges. Any such hardware that will be visible is prefinished to match the hardboard.

Hardboard wall paneling is commonly available in sheets 4 ft. wide and 7 or 8 ft. long; and in planks 6 to 16 in. wide, and 7 or 8 ft. long.

YOU MAY WANT to curve hardboard in some applications. The chart, far right, shows the minimum bending radii of various types. In "cold dry" bends the hardboard simply is wrapped around a curved form. In "cold moist" bends the panel is soaked in cold water for at least 40 minutes, or if several panels are involved they are scrubbed with water on the screened side, stacked, and left for 24 hours.

2 PLY LAMINATIO

There are two basic problems in working with hardboard: You can't fasten the stuff to itself, and raw edges are difficult to finish attractively. Here are some of the more common ways to solve these problems. A few of the many metal mouldings for joints, outside and inside corners are shown

MINIM	UM BEND	ING RAD	II (in inch	es)
hickness Of	Cold Dr	y Bends	Cold Mois	t Bends
Stock	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth	Smooth
	Side Out	Side In	Side Out	Side In
	Standar	d Hardbo	ard
1/8	12	10	7	5
3/16	18	16	10	8
1/4	27	24	15	12
5/16	35	30	22	18
	Panel	Hardboa	rd
3/16	20	18	12	10
1/4	30	27	18	15
	Both Fa	ces Smo	oth
1/8	10		7
3/16	16		12
	Tempere	d Hardbo	ard
1/8	9	7	6	4
3/16	16	14	9	6
1/4	25	22	14	10
5/16	35	30	20	16
Ten	npered, Bo	oth Faces	Smooth
1/8	10		7
3/16	16		12
	Emboss	ed Finish	es
1⁄8	10		7

Page 17

Gypsum (drywall)

DON'T HESITATE TO TACKLE drywall construction. You'll find gypsum wallboard much easier to apply than you thought. It comes in two thicknesses, 3/8 and 1/2 in. (3/8 is adequate for many installations), and in sheets 4 ft. wide and 8, 10, 12 and 14 ft. long. The table below will give you an approximation of the amount of wallboard you'll need (and therefore the cost), but if you've never applied drywall before, draw two diagrams similar

to those below right, and determine which is the less expensive and easier to install. Use the largest size panels you can, to minimize the number of joints. Install the ceiling panels first, then the walls. Drive nails 7 to 8 in. apart into rafters and joists. To cut a panel, score it on the face side, snap it back, then cut through the crease in the backing. Follow manufacturer's directions in taping the joints.

Square Feet of Wallboard Required for Walls and Ceilings for 8-Foot Rooms (No allowance made for openings)

		LE	LENGTH IN FEET
		8	9	10	11	12	13	14	15	16	17	18	19	20	21	22	23
-	4	224	244	264	284	304	324	344	364	384	404	424	444	464	484	504	524
H	5	248	269	290	311	332	353	374	395	416	437	458	479	500	521	542	563
M	6	272	294	316	338	360	382	404	426	448	470	492	514	536	558	580	602
	7	296	319	342	365	388	411	434	457	480	503	526	549	572	595	618	641
Z	8	320	344	368	392	416	440	464	488	512	536	560	584	608	632	656	680
Ξ	9	344	369	394	419	444	469	494	519	544	569	594	619	644	669	694	719
H	10	368	394	420	446	472	498	524	550	576	602	628	654	680	706	732	758
	11	392	419	446	473	500	527	554	581	608	635	662	689	716	743	770	797
	12	416	444	472	500	528	556	584	612	640	668	696	724	752	780	808	836
B	13	440	469	498	527	556	585	614	643	672	701	730	759	788	817	846	875
	14	464	494	524	554	584	614	644	674	704	734	764	794	824	854	884	914
	15	488	519	550	581	612	643	674	705	736	767	798	829	860	891	922	953
	16	512	544	576	608	640	672	704	736	768	800	832	864	896	928	960	992
	17	536	569	602	635	668	701	734	767	800	833	866	899	932	965	998	1031
	18	560	594	628	662	696	730	764	798	832	866	900	934	968	1002	1036	1070
	19	584	619	654	689	724	759	794	829	864	899	934	969	1004	1039	1074	1109
	20	608	644	680	716	752	788	824	860	896	932	968	1004	1040	1076	1112	1148
	21	632	669	706	743	780	817	854	891	928	965	1002	1039	1076	1113	1150	1187
N N	22	656	694	732	770	808	846	884	922	960	998	1036	1074	1112	1150	1188	1226
	23	680	719	758	797	836	875	914	953	992	1031	1070	1109	1148	1187	1226	1265

HORIZONTAL APPLICATION

Glues and adhesives

THE GLUE USED for any job should be a little stronger than the wood that forms the joint. Polyvinyl (white) glue is perhaps easiest to use but is not as strong as some other glues. Don't use excessive pressure when clamping polyvinyl. Plastic resin is extremely strong, and leaves an almost invisible glue line. but it requires heavy clamping pressure. Casein is a good choice for oily woods such as teak and pitch pine, and shrinks very little in drying. Resorcinol glue is waterproof, but never apply it at temperatures lower than 70°. Contact cement is the choice for applying any sheet material to a wood base, but don't spray it on! It's highly flammable Epoxy is not a good choice for wood joints (wood inhibits its curing) but may be useful in cementing metal or plastic to wood.

WOODWORKERS' GLUING CHART
TYPE OF WORK	GLUE FOR LOW-COST WATER-RESISTANT JOINT (In order of preference)	TYPE OF WORK	GLUE FOR LOW-COST WATER-RESISTANT JOINT (In order of preference)
All general gluing of hard and softwoods	Plastic resin glue Casein glue Polyvinyl glue	End-wood joints, mitered joints, scarf joints	Polyvinyl glue Casein glue (heavy mix)
Particle and chip boards to wood	Plastic resin glue Casein glue Contact cement Polyvinyl glue	Loose-fitting joints, relatively rough surfaces	Polyvinyl glue Casein glue (heavy mix)
Plywood to decorative plastic laminates	Casein glue Contact cement Plastic resin glue	Doweling	Plastic resin glue Polyvinyl glue
Laminating heavy framing members	Casein glue	Hardboard to plywood, wood or itself	Plastic resin glue Casein glue Polyvinyl glue Contact cement
Veneering, inlays, cabinet work	Plastic resin glue (extended) Polyvinyl glue	Porous materials, such as linoleum and canvas to wood	Plastic resin glue Casein glue Contact cement
Bonding oily woods (teak, pitch pine, osage, yew)	Casein glue (sponge surface with dilute caustic soda solution 1 hour before gluing)	Plastics, metal and foil to wood	Epoxy glue

Page 18

Plumbing

(All Dir	nensions in	Inches)
Nominal Size	Outside Diameter	Inside Diameter
1/8	0.405	0.269
1/4	0.540	0.364
3∕8	0.675	0.493
1/2	0.840	0.622
3/4	1.050	0.824
1	1.315	1.049
11/4	1.660	1.380
11/2	1.900	1.610
2	2.375	2.067
21/2	2.875	2.469

DIME	NSIONS OF	K, L AN	D M-TYPE	S COPPER	TUBING	FROM %"	TO 2"
	Outside Diameter		Insi Diam	de leter		W	all
Size	Types K-L-M	Туре К	Туре	Туре М	Туре К	Туре	Туре М
3/8 1/2 5/6 3/4 1	.500 .625 .750 .875 1.125	.402 .527 .652 .745 .995	.430 .545 .666 .785 1.025		.049 .049 .049 .065 .065	.035 .040 .042 .045 .050
11/2	1.375 1.625 2.125	1245 1481 1959	1265 1505 1985	1291 1527 2009	.065 .072 .083	.055 .060 .070	.042 .049 .058
		(4	I Dimens	ions in In	iches)

Copper tubing is available in three wall thicknesses, K, L and M

Here are the common steel pipe fittings. Nipples are simply short lengths of pipe threaded on both ends. Reducing fittings join two different sizes of pipe

Compression fittings of the flared-tube type are the easiest for the novice to handle when working with copper tubing

To measure pipe run precisely, measure centerto-center dimension (X), subtract dimension A of fittings, add distance pipe will enter fittings

IF YOU PLAN to do some home plumbing yourself, keep in mind that the nominal size of the pipe is always the inside diameter . Thus a ³/₄-in. pipe means that the inside diameter is approximately ³/₄ in. However, the nominal size and the actual size vary slightly. See the chart at the top left of this sheet.

When you order pipe fittings, you have to indicate whether you want externally threaded ends or internally threaded ends. Those threaded externally are called male ; if threaded internally they're called female .

Nipples are perhaps the homeowner's handiest fittings (see drawings above). In the ³/₄-in. pipe size they are available, precut and threaded at both ends, in various lengths from 1³/₈ to 12 in. long. Whenever you want to join two nipples or pieces of pipe end to end, and won't have to disconnect them later, you'll need a coupling. Reducing couplings join a larger-size pipe to a smaller-size one. Wherever you may have to disconnect a joint (such as near a water heater) you'll need some type of union. Elbows are used to turn corners, and street elbows have one end

tapped, the other threaded. Caps are used to close the ends of pipe, and plugs are used to close fittings. Bushings are threaded internally and externally, and are used to make a connection from a pipe or fitting of one size to one of another size wherever you can't use a reducing coupling.

copper tubing

Copper tubing is relatively easy to use, and does not require quite the precision in measurement that steel pipe requires. One advantage is that you can feed it through closed partitions, where you would have difficulty installing steel pipe fittings.

Copper tubing is available in three wall thicknesses (see chart at top right). You assemble the tubing and the fittings either with solder or, more commonly, simply by turning a threaded nut (that becomes part of the fitting) with a wrench. This flares the end of the tubing and compresses it inside the fitting to make a leakproof joint.

Plastic pipe , usually used outside the home, has various gluedtype fittings. See your dealer for the particular type he handles.

Page 19

Electrical work

Plastic sheathed cable: Two types are available, one for indoor use only, the other for use indoors or outdoors and can be buried underground. No conduit is needed, and it can be run through masonry

Thin-wall and rigid conduit: This is the most expensive and generally accepted type of wiring because it gives greatest protection to the wires. It is required by code in many cities. Grounds the entire system

Flexible armored cable: Easy for the do-ityourselfer, it is not recommended for use outdoors, underground, or in damp indoor locations. Its flexibility makes it easier to work with than rigid conduit. It can be used for concealed runs in hollow walls, floors and ceilings

IN DOING ELECTRICAL WORK, keep in mind not only that your city code may require certain types of supplies and installations, but also that your home insurance may be affected. Always check to see what is permissible before doing your own work.

At left are shown the most common types of cable. Regardless of what type you select, make sure the wire size is adequate for the circuit (see chart at bottom right). In general, most lighting circuits are wired with No. 14 wire, most appliance circuits with No. 12 wire. When in doubt, always go to a larger wire size (which, confusingly enough, is a smaller number).

The color of wires is important. Black and colored wires (usually red) are "hot" wires carrying current. White wires are neutral or ground wires. The present wiring in your home follows this color pattern, and when you install new wires, you should follow it too.

A blown fuse is like a fever in your body. It's a signal that something has gone wrong—not just a nuisance to be ignored. Promptly check to find out whether there's a short in your system, or whether a circuit is overloaded.

Finally, never attempt any new electrical work without pulling the fuses or circuit breaker. It can't be repeated often enough!

To splice wires together, remove 3 in. of insulation from each wire. Cross the wire 1 in. from the insulation and twist eight turns with the fingers

Diagrams above show how to install 3 and 4-way switches. In all cases, terminals A and B are lightcolored, to which red and white wires connect. Terminal C is dark, to which black wire connects

Diagrams show how to add wall switch to control light at end and in middle of run

TYPICAL APPLIANCE WATTAGE

Automatic toaster		watts	Automatic hand iron
Coffeemaker	up to 1100	watts	Ironer
Waffle iron	up to 1100	watts	Floor lamps (each)
Mixer		watts	Table lamps (each)
Radio	100	watts	Vacuum cleaner
Television		watts	Fluorescent lights (each tu
Built-in ventilating fan.	100	watts	Portable heater
Electric roaster		watts	Portable electric fan
Refrigerator		watts	Electric bed cover

WIRE SIZES FOR HOME WIRING

Copper wire sizes are indicated by number. No. 14 is most common in wiring of household lighting circuits. No. 12 is used for appliance circuits. Added margin of safety is obtained by using No. 12 for all circuits. Note that the larger the diameter of the wire, the smaller the number. Wire Number Diameter Ampacity

Wire Number	Diameter	Ampacity
14	.0641	15
12	.0808	20
10	.1019	30
8	.1285	45

Page 20

Floor tile

TILE ESTIMATING Number of Tile Needed 12" x 12" 9" x 18 5 8 15 8 16 10 36 20 18 54 30 40 40 36 50 80 50 45 60 125 70 72 80 143 90 80 90 178 200 356 200 178 300 267 400 400 356 500 890 445 600 1068 534 700 1246 700 800 900 1602 900 801 1780 1000 890 1 to 50 sq. ft. 14% 50 to 100 sq. ft. 10% 100 to 200 sq. ft. 8% Tile Waste 200 to 300 sq. ft. 7% Allowance 300 to 1000 sq. ft. 5% Over 1000 sq. ft. 3%

Left, the standard sizes of floor tile are indicated at the tops of the columns. Just select the tile size you want, then measure the floor area in square feet. You then can determine the number of tile needed to do the job. Don't forget to add the waste allowance as shown at bottom of the chart

Above, follow the numbered steps in sequence in laying out your tile installation. Two things are most important: to plan so you have approximately the same width border tiles at opposite ends of the room; and to snap your starting chalk lines at exactly right angles. Take plenty of time in this part of your planning. The rest of the installation will go easy if those two chalk lines are snapped exactly right

Left above, here's the professional way to measure and cut border tile around the room. After the field tile is laid (all tile except the border tile, which must be cut), place a tile precisely over the last field tile. Place another full-size tile over this one, but butt it against the wall. Then either score or mark the bottom tile (depending upon the type you are using). Complete the cut along this line, and the border tile will fit perfectly

Wall tile

GOOD WALL TILE, properly installed, is about as durable as the wall itself. Wall tile is made in a variety of materials—plastic, enameled steel, aluminum, copper and stainless steel. Ceramic tile is much more difficult for the homeowner to cut, but perhaps is the best looking and most durable of all wall coverings. There's no reason why you shouldn't tackle ceramictile setting if you're willing to put in the extra patience and time, and if you rent or borrow the tile-cutting tools.

The drawing at right shows most of the common types of individual tiles. They give you precast caps, bases, outcorners, feature stripes and other items that would be difficult to cut. The standard field-tile size is 4¹/₄ by 4¹/₄ in., but some tiles are available up to 8¹/₂ by 8¹/₂ in.

In planning, use a level to find the lowest point along the bottom of the walls. "Walk" tile up the wall at this point until you reach the height of your top row, and scribe a line. Now, with your level, extend this line around the room, and you're ready to tile.

Page 21

Wallpaper

A Handy Chart for Estimating Number of Single Rolls Required

Size	Single	Rolls of S	ide Wall	Yards	Rolls
Room	8 feet	9 feet	10 feet	Border	Ceiling
4 x 8 4 x 10 6 x 10 6 x 12 8 x 14 10 x 16 12 x 18 14 x 12 15 x 16 15 x 20 15 x 21 15 x 20 15 x 22 16 x 20 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 16 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 17 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x 22 20 x	6 7 8 9 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 15 16 17 17 16 17 17 18 20 21 21 21 22 24 20 21 23 22 24 27	7 8 9 10 11 12 15 16 17 18 20 17 18 20 17 20 21 20 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22 22	8 9 10 11 13 14 15 16 17 19 20 22 19 20 22 23 25 26 20 25 26 20 25 26 20 25 26 20 25 26 28 30 33	9 11 12 13 13 16 19 20 23 23 24 25 26 29 12 31 2 35 7 29 32 33 4 33 33 4 33 33 4 33 33 4 33 33 4 33 33	2 3 4 5 6 7 8 8 9 101 106 112 3 3 176 124 466 76 117 112 1111 1111 11111 1111 11111 11111111

ordinary size doors or windows or every two ordinary size doors or windows or every 36 square - feet of opening

MODERN WALLPAPERS fall into three categories. "Ordinary" wallpaper now is a paper material coated with a clear wash-fast plastic. It's the least expensive. At a somewhat higher price you can get a paper material that has a vinyl coating on its surface. And at a still higher price you can get a fabric that has a heavy plastic finish. The latter two types, although they can be used anywhere, are especially recommended for kitchens and bathrooms because grease won't penetrate the coated surface, and they can be washed time after time.

Today you also have your choice of many hand-printed specialty items such as murals. Don't attempt to hang these yourself unless you've had experience

Some wallpapers and fabric-backed coverings are available pre-pasted. The paste is applied at the factory. You just cut the paper, run it through a trough of water (the container is provided) and hang it.

To hang wallpaper, start at one corner. Measure in along the wall to a distance that's one inch less than the width of the wallpaper. Drop a plumb line from this point, and snap a chalk line down the wall. This line is extremely important because if the first strip goes up straight, so will every other strip.

Cut each strip 3 to 4 in. longer than the maximum height, so it overlaps the ceiling and baseboard; most walls are not straight, so you can't precut a strip to fit exactly right. After matching and hanging each strip, wash it thoroughly over its entire surface, not just the spots where you see excess paste.

Should new paper be hung over old? That depends upon the condition of the old paper. If it's loose in spots, rent a steamer and remove it. If it's in sound, smooth condition, you can cut a corner by papering over it.

Plastic laminates

Here are pictured the two methods recommended for cutting roll and sheet-type laminate. Roll type is scored with pointed tool like an owl or ice pick and bent upward to snap off. Sheet laminate is cut with a fine-tooth saw

BUILT-UP EDGES AND EDGE TREATMENT

If you do not wish to face the edge of the work with laminate, the edge can be attractively concealed with either a metal or wooden molding. Note that laminate applied to the surface extends over facing strip

ilass

Laminates come in two thicknesses (see above for different cutting techniques) and in widths

THE HOMEOWNER is likely to be concerned with only three types of glass: 1. Picture glass, for picture frames, is 1/16-in. thick; 2. Single-strength window glass is 3/32in. thick; 3. Double-strength window glass is 1/8-in, thick

As for quality, there are three grades. AA glass, seldom found in the home, is the finest glass obtainable, with no perceptible flaws. A glass is free of any imperfections that noticeably interfere with straight vision. B glass is the least expensive, but may have minor waves and other flaws

24, 30, 36 and 48 in. See drawings at right for alternate ways of treating edges

First step (not shown above) in replacing a broken pane is to remove the broken glass and the old putty. It sometimes helps if you soften the putty by playing a torch along the beyel. Cut the new pane 1/8-in. smaller than the height and width of the opening. Apply a thin layer of putty, center one glazier's point in bottom rabbet with 1/8-in. projecting, set glass on it and press (left). Drive in clazier's points (center). Finally, roll putty into 1/2-in, strip, and give it a final bevel with a putty knife (right)

Page 22

Guide for remodeling WHETHER YOU WANT to remodel your 31/2" larger than the door. Head and side casings are 1/2" x 13/4"; exterior door sill is 13/4" x 7/4"; a stock jamb with a 1/2" rabbet is 13/4" or 13/4" y 51/4"

kitchen or add a room to your house, this guide can help you in the planning stage. It provides some basic measurements of common structures, equipment and material, and recommended minimum dimensions. Widths are given as the narrowest horizontal dimension, or as the distance from left to right from the front of an item. Heights are given from the floor or from the bottom of suspended items. Depths are from front to rear. Some measurements are not given because they vary widely.

6'6" to top

ENTRANCE DOOR

Bookshelves and cases (adjustable shelves have pin holes 1" o.c.)

SINGLE BED

FULL-SIZE BED

Sheet 21

1'5" to 1'61/2"

Page 23

Sheet 22

Stair construction

THE SECRET is in planning the job. The following system sounds complicated, but really isn't. First, measure the distance between the lower and upper finished floors. This is the total rise. Divide it by 7 (the ideal unit rise) and you'll get the number of risers you need. Now, ignore any fraction, and divide the total rise by this number to get the actual (instead of the ideal) unit rise. Example: Total rise is 8 ft.; 7 into 96 in. = 13.71; 13 into 96 = 7.384, the actual height of each of the 13 risers. Now, to find the standard tread width , subtract the unit rise from 17½ in. This is the unit run . To find the total run (the actual length of floor space the stairway will require) multiply the tread width by the number of risers minus one—in the preceding example, 12.

Height Floor to Floor (H)	No. of Risers	Height of Risers R	Width of treads	Total Run ©	Well Width Ŵ
	12	8″	9″	8'3"	8'1"
8'0"	13	73/8"+	91/2"	9′6″	9'21/2"
	13	73⁄8″+	10″	10'0"	9'81/2"
	13	77/8"-	9″	9′0″	8'3"
8′6″	14	75/16"-	91/2″	10'31⁄2″	9'4"
	14	75/16"-	10″	10'10"	9'10"
	14	711/16"+	9″	9/9″	8′5″
9'0"	15	73/16"+	91/2″	11'1"	9'61/2"
	15	73/16"+	10″	11′8″	9'111/2"
	15	75/8''-	9″	10'6"	8'61/2"
9'6"	16	71/8″	91/2″	11'101/2"	9′7″
	16	71/8″	10″	12'6"	10'1"

Dimensions under "W" in the detail are based on 78 in. minimum headroom. As the headroom increases so does the well opening

le elbov

oward wall

STAIRS Recommended stairway width 2'10"-3'

Here are the ideal dimensions for a standard stairway, but few stairs will meet these measurements because each stairway presents its own problems. You'll usually have to compromise, so make a scale drawing before you begin work

For safety, all open stairways should be provided with a continuous handrail. Handrail heights should approximate those shown above

Gutters and downspouts

Spike an

YOU HAVE YOUR CHOICE of two standard shapes in metal gutter systems: half-round and box. The latter shape is also available in two sizes based on the top width of the trough. Use the 5-in. guttering in heavy rainfall areas or large roofs; otherwise the 4-in. size will suffice. Galvanized steel guttering requires consistent upkeep; aluminum guttering is not subject to rust, but doesn't hold up well in salt-water areas.

TO MAKE A PATCH FOR A LEAKING gutter, apply a heavy coat of roof cement over the damaged area, press a piece of aluminum foil into place, then follow with more cement. To patch a downspout, clean the area with steel wool, and apply a strip of adhesive aluminum-foil tape. If you're planning a new job or replacing whole sections of an old gutter and downspout system, the sketches above show you the parts you may need, and what to ask for at your building-supply dealer.

Page 24

Masonry

Roman brick Partition 12" 2%"-4%" Common concrete blocks

STANDARD BRICK AND CONCRETE BLOCK dimensions are shown above. These will provide a basis for estimating the number you require.

The following information applies to the concrete jobs most frequently done around the home.

• Walks . The concrete should be poured 4 in. thick (driveways, 6 in. thick). A 4 to 6-in. subbase of compacted sand, gravel or crushed stone is recommended. Use staked 2 x 4's for forms. The surface should be 1 in. above grade and sloped ¹/₄ in. to the foot

for drainage. Divide the walk into sections 4 ft. long by troweling a groove in the fresh concrete.

Sheet 23

• Flagstones . Simple forms can be made of 1 x 3 strips, so designed that they can be taken apart easily. Coat them with crankcase oil.

• Patios. Build forms of 2 x 4's, allowing a slope for drainage.

• Mixing . Use the following mix for all work described above: 1 part portland cement; 2¹/₄ parts sand; 3 parts gravel or crushed stone (1-in. maximum size); ²/₃ parts water. If you prefer to use ready-mix, it is sold by the cubic yard. Order 5 to 10 percent more ready-mix than needed as a normal waste allowance.

Lawn and garden chemicals

IN USING FERTILIZER, a good rule of thumb is to apply 1 lb. of nitrogen per 1000 sq. ft. of established turf. Every bag of fertilizer is labeled with its percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potash in that order. In calculating your needs, simply divide the first number (nitrogen) into 100. This will give you the number of pounds of fertilizer you require per 1000 square feet. Example: You look at a bag of fertilizer with a 10-6-4 formula. Divide the first figure (10) into 100. and you find you'll need 10 lbs. of this fertilizer per 1000 sq. ft. If you have 5000 sq. ft. of lawn, you therefore will need 50 lbs. of this fertilizer. The chart below condenses this information for the more common fertilizers. and also gives figures for organic fertilizers.


FERTILIZER
FERTILIZER	FERTILIZER NEEDED TO SPRAD 1 POUND OF NITROGEN OVER 1000 SQ. FT. AREA
5-10-5 4-12-4 5-10-10 10-10-10 8-8-8 10-6-4 8-6-4 4-8-4 6-12-4 Processed sewage sludge Ammonium sulfate Nitrate of soda Steamed bonemeal Cottonseed meal Peanut hull meal Coccoa shell meal Dried cattle manure Dried cattle manure Dried sheep manure Sewage sludge Tobacco stems Urea Processed tankage Soybean meal	20 Pounds 25 Pounds 20 Pounds 10 Pounds 13 Pounds 13 Pounds 25 Pounds 25 Pounds 17 Pounds 4 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Pounds 50 Poun

WEED	BEST TIME TO TREAT	CONTROL	EFFECT
Bermudagrass	Spring or summer	Methyl bromide (kills all plants)	Good
Bindweed, field	Spring, fall	2,4-D; silvex; MCPA	Good
Chickweed, common	Spring, fall	Silvex; 2,4,5-T	Good
Chickweed, mouse-eared	Spring, fall	Silvex; 2,4,5-T	Good
Crabgrass	Winter, spring, summer	See separate crabgrass section	Fair to good
Dandelion	Spring and fall	2,4-D; MCPA; 2,4,5-T; silvex	Good
Garlic, wild	Late fall, early spring	2,4-D	Good
Goosegrass	Spring, early summer	2,4-D	Poor
Ground-ivy	Spring, fall	Silvex	Good
Henbit	Spring, summer	Silvex	Good
Knotweed	Late winter, early spring	2,4-D; silvex; 2,4,5-T	Good
Nimblewill	Spring	Zytron (repeated treatments)	Fair
Plantain, Buckhorn	Spring	2,4-D	Good
Plantain, rugel	Spring	2,4-D	Good
Quackgrass	Spring, summer, fall	Dalapon (kills all plants)	Fair
Sorrel, red	Spring	Silvex	Fair
Woodsorrel, yellow	Spring	Silvex	Good

HOW TO CONTROL COMMON LAWN DISEASES
DISEASE	SYMPTOMS	CONTROL
Helminthosporium leaf spot	Kentucky bluegrass susceptible. Reddish- brown spots appear on leaves, which shrivel, and plant discolors and rots.	Acti-dione-thiram, Cap- tan, Dyrene, Ortho Lawn and Turf Fungicide, PMA
Dollar spot	Affects many species, but particularly destruc- tive to bentgrasses. Appears during cool, wet weather. Silver-dollar-size spots appear on lawn, black at first, then brown, then white. Grass dies.	Cadmium-containing fun- gicides, Dyrene, Ortho Lawn and Turf Fungicide, Tersan OM
Brown patch	Attacks virtually all species. Prevalent in warm, humid areas. Irregular circular spots from few inches to several feet if diameter appear and turn brown. If weather stays hot and humid, grass dies but leaves remain erect.	Mercury-containing fun- gicides, Dyrene, Ortho Lawn and Turf Fungi- cide, Tersan OM
Rust	Attacks many grasses, but particularly de- structive to Kentucky bluegrass. Usually oc- curs late in summer. Yellow-orange powdery spots appear on leaves. If cloth is rubbed across leaf, spores will leave a yellowish or orange stain.	Acti-dione-thiram, zineb
Snow mold	Affects many grasses, but particularly bent- grasses. Appears on grass which is growing while still covered with snow. White cottony growth appears on leaves.	Dyrene, mercury-contain- ing fungicides, Ortho Lawn and Turf Fungicide
Curvularia fading-out	Attacks many southern grasses when humid- ity is high. Damage severe on grass that has been covered by water. Older leaves die, but tips of new growth remain green.	Acti-dione-thiram, Cap- tan, Dyrene, Ortho Lawn and Turf Fungicide, PMA
Gray leaf spot	Attacks St. Augustine grass. Small gray cir- cular or elliptical spots appear on leaves. May spread to kill large areas of turf.	Acti-dione-thiram, Cap- tan, Dyrene, Ortho Lawn and Turf Fungicide, PMA

HOW TO CONTROL COMMON LAWN WEEDS

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Useful mathematics

Decimal	equivalents
¹ / ₁₆ = .0625	⁹ ∕ ₁₆ = .5625
¹ / ₈ = .1250	5/8 = .6250
$\frac{3}{16} = .1875$	¹¹ / ₁₆ = .6875
1∕4 = .2500	³ / ₄ = .7500
⁵ / ₁₆ = .3125	¹³ / ₁₆ = .8125
³ / ₈ = .3750	⁷ ⁄ ₈ = .8750
⁷ / ₁₆ = .4375	¹⁵ / ₁₆ = .9375
$\frac{1}{2} = .5000$

Linear measure 16.5 ft. = 1 rod 320 rods = 5280 ft. = 1 mile

Volume measure

1728 cu. in. = 1 cu. ft. 27 cu. ft. = 1 cu. yd.

Metric system

1 meter = 39.37 in. 1 millimeter (mm) = 1/1000 meter 1 centimeter (cm) = 1/100 meter 1 kilometer (km) = 1000 meters = .621 mi. (1 mi. = 1.609 km) 1 liter = 1.057 qt. (1 qt. = .9463 liters) 1 gram = .035 ounces 1 kilogram = 1000 grams = 2.205 lb. (1 lb. = .453 kilograms)

Measures of capacity

1 cup = 8 fl. oz.4 quarts = 1 gallon2 cups = 1 pint2 gallons = 1 peck2 pints = 1 quart4 pecks = 1 bushel

Square measure

144 sq. in. = 1 sq. ft. 9 sq. ft. = 1 sq. yd. 272.25 sq. ft. = 1 sq. rod 160 sq. rods = 1 acre

To determine areas and volumes

π (pi) = 3.1416 Circle: Area = π × r²

Circumference = 2 × π × r

quare: Area = $s^2$ Diagonal = 1.414 $\times$ s

Parallelogram or rectangle Area = b × h Right triangle: c² = a² + b²

Sphere: Volume = 4/3 × π × r³ Surface area = 4 × π × r²

Cone: Volume = ¹/₃ × π × r² × h

Rectangular solid: Volume = h × a × b Surface area = (2 × a × b) + (2 × b × h) + (2 × a × h)

To find the center of a circle: Apply a square or the corner of a sheet of paper to the circumference as shown. Mark the points where the sheet edges intersect the circumference, and connect them. This gives you a diameter. Repeat the process to get another diameter, and the point where they intersect will be the center.

To divide a line into equal parts: Draw another line at a right angle, at the end of the first line. Place a ruler on the line to be measured, and swing the right end diagonally upward until it intersects the second line at a point where the ruler can be easily divided into the required number of parts (see diagram). Divide the ruled line, then connect these points with vertical lines.

To lay out a right angle on the ground (as for a foundation): Measure 6 ft. in one direction. Use a string exactly 8 ft. long to swing a short arc on the ground at approximately 90° to the first line. Measure 10 ft. from the base line to this arc, and the point of intersection will produce a perfect right angle.

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