CRAFTSMAN No. 470 TILTING ARBOR SAW
With this unit the work is always flat. When angles are to be cut the whole unit is tilted, permitting every ounce of power to be utilized. There is no twisting of the belt. No countershafts or idlers are required. A counterweight with cable attached to the unit base assists in tilting
By simply detaching the splitter and lowering the saw blade, the table top is cleared for assembling projects, painting or other work. The lowering device enables the operator to vary the depth of cut WITH EXTREME AC-CURAGY.
SPECIFICATIONS
- 1. Cuts full 3" stock.
- 2. Removable insert for dadoing.
- 3. Saw unit hinges on top plate.
- 4. Slide bar bolt locks unit at any angle.
- 5. Indicator and gauge show position of tilting arbor.
- 6. Saw blade and motor raised or lowered as a unit by hand-wheel.
- 7. Heavy duty "V" belt
- 8. Beit adjustment.
- 9. Hook for counterweight.
- 10. Outlet for sawdust.
- 11. Table leveling screw.
- Highest quality 10" saw blade. SKF Ball Bearing equipped. Shipping weight 112 lbs.
HOW TO ATTACH THE TILTING ARBOR UNIT TO THE STANDARD BENCH TOP
K-Ripping guide aligning screw. U-Handwheel for locking ripping guide. V-Micro adjusting nut for ripping guide. W-Lock nut for micro adjusting screw.
B—Stud bolts for attaching unit to cleats C—Cleats for attaching unit to table. D—Table leveling adjusting set screw. H—Belt tension adjusting nuts.
B—Stud bolts for attaching unit to cleats. C—Cleats for attaching unit to table. D—Table leveling adjusting set screw. M—Splitter adjusting nut.
As this bench top is shipped it has the necessary holes cut to receive the saw unit and the splitter. A few of the earliest models did not have the splitter slot. If yours does not have this see opposite page for instructions on how to cut it. A recess is machined in the under side of the top to provide clearance for the arbor pulley and belt when the arbor is in the uppermost position. The table top is also grooved for the miter gauge rails which are to be inserted flush with the top. Holes for attaching the legs and steel guide bar are not provide because the requirements of different operators will vary and it is a simple job to mark the position and drill the necessary holes.
The first thing to do will be to place the bench top upside down on the floor or bench, set the legs in position and mark the centers of the holes. Then, with the saw blade retracted to its lowest position place the unit table down on the bench top and mark the position for cleats (C) shown in photo. (If this is done before the motor is attached the unit will be less unwieldy and easier to handle.) If the unit table does not fit readily into the hole provided in the bench top file away sufficient wood from the edges of the hole to receive it.
After the holes for the cleats are marked drill 1/4" holes about 1" deep into the wood to take the lag screws. The unit should be so placed that when the bench and saw unit are operated the arbor pulley and raising mechanism will be on the left side looking at it from the end where the stock to be sawed is fed. The unit may now be screwed rigidly to the table with the lag screws provided. You will notice that later on if it is necessary to remove the unit from the table it will not be necessary to remove these lag screws or cleats. They may be detached from the unit.
With the unit in place drill holes for attaching the bench legs and attach them. It is advisable to bolt a 13/4" board to cross members of the legs as indicated on the photograph. This will
increase rigidity. Another strip of wood attached lengthwise of the table on the under side, up against the legs will also add strength to the outfit. Now the bench outfit may be stoop on its legs, and a hole drilled diagonally through this apron, which has just been attached, to allow the counterweight cable to pass through.
Attaching the Rip Guide Support Bar
This support bar should be attached to the front edge of the table with the centers of the holes in the bar 31/32" below the table top. First locate the holes in the ends of the bar making certain that the top edge of the bar is exactly parallel to the top of the table. One hole should be drilled at a point 4%" to the left of the center line of the recess cut into the table for the saw unit. The other hole is located 15¼" to the right of the same center line. Drill these holes with a ¼" drill, about ¾" deep.
Place bar in position and screw it down tightly. Put rip guide in position on the bar and slide it the full length to see that it functions properly. Then drill the other two holes and insert screws without removing the bar. Do not forget to place spacing washers between the bar and the table.
Before starting the motor see to it that the top of the unit rests flush with the table top. If not, it can be moved as required by the regulating bolts (D) and lock screws which attach the cleats to the unit. After making the adjustment tighten stud bolts (B) to lock it rigidly in place. By proper adjustment of these bolts table of saw can be brought into perfect alignment with wood table.
Put one of the gauge rods into the miter gauge and use it to check alignment of the blade with the slots. If alignment is incorrect, loosen nuts on the saw arbor columns and move the blade slightly until it is equidistant from the miter gauge slot, at the front and rear of the saw blade. Then retighten the nuts on the saw arbor column. The saw blade should be exactly parallel with the miter gauge slot. The cast iron cup is filled with molten lead and hung in position. The function of this is to assist in tilting the unit. Attach the splitter to the bracket at the rear of the unit. Swing the unit to 45° slowly to make cer-
tain that it clears the table properly at all angles.
To align the splitter with the saw blade take a piece of lumber which has one edge perfectly straight and run a cut in far enough to include the splitter in the slot. Loosen the splitter adjusting nut (M) and shift the splitter until it is free in the saw cut.
HOW TO ATTACH THE TILTING ARBOR UNIT TO YOUR OWN BENCH TOP
F OR those who wish to make their own table tops or who prefer to install this unit in a bench they already have, the necessary dimensions are given in the drawing below. The size of the standard table is 30" x 48" x 11/4" but, of course, this may be varied to fit the owner's requirements.
The first requisite is that the bench top be smooth and level, otherwise it will be difficult to feed the stock properly and do accurate work. First mark off the main hole for the unit as indicated and cut out the material. After this is done a slot for the splitter should be provided. Due to the angles to which the unit swings, it is necessary to bevel this slot on the under side. A compass saw and wood rasp will shape out the material satisfactorily.
With this done the slots for the miter gauge rails should be dadoed out or some provision made for sinking these rails down flush with the top surface of the table.
After the unit is installed it may be necessary to remove some material from the under side of the bench top at a position where the arbor pulley would touch it if he arbor were raised to its
uppermost position. Raise the arbor slowly to determine whether or not the pulley touches when in this position. Sufficient clearance should be provided here to allow the belt to travel without chafing.
The actual attaching of the unit to the bench top, placing of the cleats, counterweight cable and ripping fence guide bar are accomplished the same way as with the standard top and are explained on the opposite page.
Either a 1/2 H.P. or a 3/4 H.P. 3500 R.P.M. motor may be used. Naturally if it is to be operated at full capacity on heavy work the 3/4 H.P. motor is preferred. Belt tension is regulated by the
bolts which carry the base casting.
Avoid having a 1/2 H.P. or 3/4 H.P. motor on the same line with other appliances or lights of heavy voltage. If you have difficulty in getting sufficient power it is advisable to have a representative from your local power company check the line voltage to determine whether or not your feed wire is large enough.
The photo above shows the unit installed in the standard bench top mounted on stamped steel legs. With an installation of this kind a piece of board should be attached to the leg cross-members to increase rigidity. Also, a strip of wood bolted to the right sides of the legs at the top will strengthen the whole bench unit.
Easily Transported
Contractors or others who wish to move this unit about from job to job will find that it is ideally fitted to the requirements. The saw unit with motor may readily be removed from one table and inserted in another, or the whole outfit, bench and all may easily be transported from one location to another without danger of damaging the unit.
Cutting Metal or Ceramics
By removing the saw blade and installing an abrasive cut-off wheel, hardened or unhardened steel, iron and other metals may be cut almost as readily as wood. A cut-off wheel, of slightly different composition, is available for cutting bricks, tile and other ceramics.
Special protection is provided the arbor bearings and raising mechanism to prevent dust and fine abrasive materials from entering and damaging the SKF Ball Bearings. All angles may be cut as accurately with the cut-off wheels
as with the saw blades
Dadoing or Grooving
Dado saws and chippers should be about 51/2" in diameter and are mounted on the saw spindle in place of the saw blade.
PARTS LISTING
NOTICE
This sheet is intended for instruction only and is not a packing slip. The parts shown and listed include accessories that are not necessarily part of this tool.
IMPORTANT
Order repair parts on a separate order blank or piece of paper apart from other merchandise
Be sure to give complete information including part number and description. Include money order, check or draft for the full amount
Mail your order and remittance direct to the nearest Sears, Roebuck & Co. Mail Order store — Chicago, Philadelphia, Boston, Kansas City, Memphis, Atlanta, Dallas, Minneapolis, Seattle or Los Angeles.
Prices shown are prepaid to destination.
| Catalog | Price | |
|---|---|---|
| No. | Description | List |
| -58-A | Wood Facing | $ .65 |
| 58-B | Ripping Guide | 3.00 |
| 58-C | Hand Wheel | .35 |
| 58-D | Hand Screw | .15 |
| 58-E | Clamp Bracket | .50 |
| 58-F | Micrometer Adjustment Screw | .35 |
| TA12-A | Right Hand Arm | 1.50 |
| TA12-B | Clamp Nut | .50 |
| TA12-C | Indicator Point | .15 |
| TA13 | Left Hand Arm | 1.50 |
| TA14-A | Table | 2.00 |
| TA14-B | Table Insert | 1.00 |
| TA15-A | Housing | .4.00 |
| TA15-B | Housing Cover | 1.00 |
| TA16-A | Worm Shaft Housing | 2.25 |
| TA16-B | Hand Screw | .15 |
| TA17 | Tilting Segment | 1.00 |
| TA18-A | Worm Shaft | 1.50 |
| TA18-B | Worm Shaft Hand Wheel | .75 |
| TA18-C | Brake Shoe and Screw | .25 |
| TA19 | Motor Plate | 2.00 |
| TA20 | Motor Plate Bracket | 2.00 |
Do Not Run Belt Too Tight
If the belt is too tight it will overload the motor, motor bearings and saw bearings. Also it will wear out the belt prematurely. It should be just tight enough to carry the load without slipping.
Lubrication
The saw bearings are packed with sufficient grease to cover many months of operation. A few drops of oil added once or twice a year will take care of the bearings.
All joints where there is movement, such as the hinge bolts, should be oiled periodically to assure smooth operation.
| Latalog | Drica | 6 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| No. | Description | Lick | |
| TA21 | Table Clamp (4 used) | ¢ 25 | |
| TA22 | Counterweight Cable | D .20 | |
| TA23-A | Counterweight Dulles | 50 | |
| TADD | Counterweight Pulley | .25 | |
| 1A23-0 | Counterweight Bracket | .50 | |
| 1A24 | Counterweight Cup | 1.00 | |
| 9862-A | Bearing Unit | 5.25 | |
| 9B62-B | Shaft and Collar | 2.00 | |
| 9B62-C | Shaft Washer | 15 | |
| 9B62-D | Nut | 10 | |
| 9863-A | Bearing Housing | 1 05 | |
| 9863-B | Indicator Pin | 1.05 | |
| OR64 A | Worm Case | .15 | |
| DREA P | Worm Gear | .50 | |
| 9004-D | worm Screw | 1.00 | |
| 9865 | Bearing Support Rods (2 used)each | 1.00 | |
| 9865-A | Support Bracket | .50 | |
| 9B66-A | Guard | 2.00 | |
| 9B66-B | Guard Arm | 1.50 | |
| 9B66-C | Guard Bracket | 50 | |
| 9866-D | Guard Holder | 50 | |
| 9875-A | Long Extension Bar | 1.00 | |
| VB34 | 24" Endlace "\/" Rolt | 4.00 | |
| 01/775 | 214// Dullar with 5/// Dag | .60 | |
| 1215 | 2.72 Fulley with 3/8" Bore | .30 | |
Types of Blades to Use
This unit is equipped with a rip saw. Although it is intended primarily for sawing with the grain of the wood it will do, cross-cutting fairly smooth. If considerable cross-cutting is to be done a cross-cut blade should be used. When the work requires constant shifting from one type of sawing to the other, use a combination blade.
- Sawing Metal
Abrasive cut-off wheels are available for this unit which are installed in place of the saw blade for cutting hardened or unhardened steel, iron, brass and other metals. Also for cutting tile, brick and other ceramics.
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