Sears Craftsman 113.198311 Operator's Manual

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Operators

Manual

MODEL NO.

113.198311

10" RADIAL SAW

WITH 44" CABINET

Serial Number Model and serial numbers

may be found at the rear of the base.

You should record both model and serial number in

a safe place for future use.

CAUTION:

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS

CAREFULLY

CRRFTgMRN

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

• Assembly

• Operating

• Repair parts

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. SP5103 Printed in U.S.A.

Page 2

FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY ON CRAFTSMAN RADIAL SAW

If within one year from the date of purchase, this Craftsman Radial Saw fails due to a defect in material or workmanship, Sears will repair it, free of charge.

WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY SIMPLY CONTACTING THE NEAREST SEARS

SERVICE CENTER/DEPARTMENT THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES.

This warranty applies only while this product is used in the United States.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other :rights which vary from state to

state.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., DEPT. 698/731A Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684

Table of Contents

Section Title Page Numbers

Safety Information ........................................................... 3-6

Putting Your Saw Together ................................................. 7-18

Location and Function of Controls ........................................ 19-22

Alignment of the Blade ..................................................... 23-38

Electrical Connections ..................................................... 39-40

Crosscutting ............................................................... 41-47

Ripping ................................................................... 48-56

Cutting Accessories ....................................................... 57-60

Recommended Accessories ................................................... 61

Glossary ...................................................................... 62

Helpful Hints ............................................................. 63-64

Maintaining Your Saw .................................................... 65-70

Trouble Shooting ......................................................... 71-75

Parts List .................................................................. 76-91

Page 3

Safety Information

The operator's manual contains safety infor- mation, instructions and signs for your protec- tion against serious injuries, including:

Loss of fingers, hand, arm or leg from contact with the saw blade.

Eye injuries, including being blinded from

being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece

chips or pieces of the saw blade.

Impact injuries, including broken bones and internal organ damage, from being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces of the saw blade.

Shock, electrocution, or burn injuries from contact with wires, motor or other saw parts.

Safety Symbol and Signal Words

The safety information in this manual is high- lighted by the following safety alert symbol.

Fig. 1Safety Alert Symbol

The following signal words are used to indi-

cate the level of risk.

'_ DANGER: Means that if the safety infor-

mation is not followed, someone will be seriously injured or killed.

WARNING: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone could be seriously injured or killed.

'_, CAUTION: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone may be in-

jured.

All of the safety information and cutting

steps are critical to the safe operation of the

radial arm saw.

Major Hazards

1. Workpiece Kickback

Kickback is an uncontrolled grabbing and

throwing of the workpiece during ripping. If kickback occurs, the workpiece can hit you hard enough to cause broken bones, in-

ternal organ injury or death. To reduce or

prevent kickback, read and follow the safety

information in the Ripping section of the

manual.

Kickback.

Internal injury can

result.

Use anti-kickback

pawls/spreader.

Fig. 2 Kickback Safety Sign

2. Kickback Followed by Blade Contact

Kickback followed by blade contact can hap- pen when the saw blade is pinched or bound by the workpiece during ripping. Kickback can happen if you reach around the blade to the end with the anti-kickback pawls, (out-

feed end), and try to hold-down or pull the

workpiece through to complete the cut. Your

fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the blade if the workpiece kicks back.

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 3 Blade Contact Safety Sign

Page 4

3. Wrong Way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece into the end of the saw with the anti-kickback

pawls. The workpiece can be grabbed by the

blade and pull your hands into the blade before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,

hand or arm can be cut off.

can be blinded

Wear safety

goggles.

Wrong Way Feed. Fingers,hand, arm

can be cut off.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 4 Wrong Way Feed Safety,Sign

If a workpiece is fed into the end of the saw

with the anti-kickback pawls, it can take off

like a missile. Anyone hit by the workpiece can be killed. Feed the workpiece into the in- feed end of the saw blade, the end that does

not have the anti-kickback pawls.

Wrong Way Feed.

Workpiece impact

can kill others.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 5 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign

4. Thrown Workpiece Chips and Blade Pieces

The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece

chips or pieces of the blade violently. You can be blinded. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1" on the package.

Fig. 6 Safety Goggles Safety Sign

_i, DANGER: Follow the 8 steps listed

below to reduce or eliminate the risk of being injured when using the radial arm

saw. Failure to do so can result in a life threatening injury or death.

1. Lower the anti-kickback pawls and

spreader when crosscutting and ripping.

2. Set blade guard in horizontal position when crosscutting.

3. Lower blade guard nose only when rip- ping.

4. Keep hands as far away from the blade as possible when cutting.

5. Return the saw to its rearmost position after each crosscut.

6. Wait until the blade has stopped turn- ing before reaching for the workpiece or anything else on the table.

7. Read and follow the safety information and safety instructions in the operator's

manual and in the safety labels on the radial arm saw.

8. Know location and function of all con-

trols before using saw. See the Location and Function of Controls section.

Page 5

Personal Safety

1. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1"

on the package. Do not wear regular glasses, they are not safety glasses.

2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie

long hair. Do not wear loose, baggy clothes, gloves, neckties, rings, watches or any other

jewelry.

3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety gog- gles, if cutting operation is dusty.

4. Wear hearing protectors, ear plugs or muffs, if you use the saw daily.

5. Keep good footing and balance. Don't over- reach.

Work Area Safety

1. Keep children, pets and visitors out of the

work area.

2. Make the work area child proof. Remove the yellow key from the red switch and place

it out of reach and sight. Lock work area.

3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust, wax or other slippery materials.

4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered and well lighted.

5. Use the saw in a dry area. Do not use in

wet or damp area. Do not use outside.

6. Clear the table of all objects (adjusting wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except

the workpiece to be cut, fixtures or clamps before turning the saw on.

7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work on the table while the blade is turning.

8. Store items away from the saw. Do not climb on the saw to reach items. Do not

stand on the table; the saw can tip over.

Saw Safety

1. Keep guards and anti-kickback pawls in place and in working order.

2. Check for broken or damaged parts before using saw. A damaged guard or other saw

part should be checked for alignment, bind- ing, breakage and correct mounting to make

sure they are working properly. Repair or

replace damaged guards or other saw parts.

3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance, making adjustments, and changing blades and

accessories.

4. Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece when practical. It's safer than using your

hands and frees them to operate the saw.

5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or acces- sories to do jobs they are not designed to do.

6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and

the red switch is in the off position before

plugging in the power cord.

7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic materials. Do not cut metal materials.

8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or table if it slides, tips or walks during use.

9. Feed the workpiece against the direction of rotation of the blade when ripping.

10. Turn the saw off before leaving work area. Do not leave the saw until the blade

has stopped.

11. Lock the rip and miter locks before moving the saw from one location to another.

12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if

the blade jams. Do not try to free a jammed workpiece with the saw on.

13. Turn the saw off if it vibrates excessively

or makes an unfamiliar noise. Correct any problems before restarting saw.

Page 6

14.Rip workpiecesthat are longer than the

diameter of the bladebeing used.Do not rip aworkpiece that is shorter than thediameter

of the blade beingused.

15.Cut only one workpiece at a time. Do not cut stackedworkpiecesor lay them edge to edgefor cutting.

Workpiece Support Safety

1. Use additional supports for workpieces

which extend beyond the saw table. Large workpieces can shift, twist, rise from table or

fall after they are cut.

2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces of the blade. Use

table extensions or other supports. Do not use helpers.

3. Helpers can cause the workpiece to kick-

back. Do not use other people to support or assist in feeding or pulling the workpiece.

Use table extensions. See Recommended Ac-

cessories section of the manual.

4. When table extensions over 24 inches wide

are added to either side of the saw, make sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or support the outer end of the extension from

the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.

Blade Safety

1. Use blades marked for 3450 rpm or higher.

2. Do not use blades larger than l0 inches in diameter.

3. Keep blade sharp and clean.

4. Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapid- ly; the blade can loosen.

5. Do not overtighten the blade; the blade

collar can be warped.

Safety Labels on the Radial Arm Saw

The following labels are on your radial arm saw. Locate, read and follow the safety in-

structions and information contained in these labels.

1. Wrong way feed label located on the out-

feed end of the blade guard.

I DANGER J

TO AVOID

INJURY DO NOT

FEED MATERIAL

INTO CUTTING

TOOL FROM

THIS END

Fig. 7 Wrong Way Feed Label

2. Safety instruction label located on the front of the saw near the handwheel.

Fig. 8

[ DANGER I

FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY:

1. Read and understand owner's manual before operating machine.

2. Wear safety goggles complying with ANSIZ87.t.

3. Keep hands out of path of saw blade.

4. Know how to avoid "KICKBACKS_'

5. Use "PUSH STICK" for narrow work.

6. Never reach around the saw blade.

7. Never perform any operation

"FREEHAND:'

8. Return carriage to the full rear position

after each cross-cut type operation.

9. Shut off power and allow saw blade to

stop before adjusting or servicing.

Safety Instruction Label

3. Ripping safety label located on the motor.

IDANGERI

WHEN RIPPING

1. Read and understand owner's manual

operaUng m4_blne.

2. Woar salfMy goggles complying with

ANSi 7.87.1.

3. KINIp hands out of path of law bllide.

4. Know how to avoid "KICKBACKS:'

5. Use "PUSH STICK" for narrow work.

6. Nero" roach around the law blade.

7. Never perform any oporatlon

"FREEHAND:'

8. Shut o4/power and allow law blade to StOp before adjusting o¢ N/'_'lclng.

TO AVOID RUNAWAY WORKPIECE

ALWAYS PUSH WO_,KPIIECE into cutt_ tool FROM THIS END ONLY

DANGER AT OUTFEED

Wotkpleca can smlck_ kick beck and

, and under out_ too_

ZONE

KEEP HANDS AWAYI

e._d417

Motor:. 120 Volts 12 Amps 3450 R.P.M. 60 Hz. 1 Phase

Fig. 9 Ripping Safety Label

Page 7

Puttin etherYour Saw To

Your radial arm saw is easy to put together, however it will take time. Ask a friend to

help, and follow these assembly instructions. It is important for your safety, and for the quality of your cuts, that the saw be put together with care.

'_ WARNING: Plugging the saw in

during assembly can result in electrical shock or your fingers, hand, or arm be- ing cut off from blade contact. Do not plug in the saw at any time during as- sembly. The saw should only be plugged in when it is to be used.

F D

Unpacking/Set up

1. As you unpack, try to keep the contents of

each of the smaller bags together and separate

from the others. This will help you identify and locate the parts you need during assembly.

LIST OF LOOSE PARTS MODEL 113.198311

A. Basic Saw Assembly ..................... 1

B. Operators Manual ....................... 1

C. Cabinet Assembly ....................... 1

D. Front Table Board ....................... 1

E. Fence Rip ............................... 1

F. Spacer Board ............................ 1

G. Rear Table ............................... 1

H. Trim Ledge .............................. 1

I. Cap Trim ................................ 2

J. Loose Parts Bag* ......................... 6

*This is the total number of loose parts bags.

Fig. 10- Parts for Model 113.198311

2. Identify the large parts of your saw before beginning each section. Your task will be

easier if you are familiar with these parts.

3. Identify the tools required for assembly. Make sure that you have all of the tools you will need. (Figure 11)

---_=a_ Medium Screwdriver

_7/16,, Wrench _//_ No. 2 Phillips Screwdriver

1/2" Wrench i'( _--]T

llJ

9/16" Wrench Hammer

3/4" Wrench

3/4"' Socket

9/16" Socket

Socket Wrench

Fig. 11

I::.":;, ", " ..i. :_: -

Framing Square

ut_s_

Penci I

Socket Extension 1/8" Hex "L" Wrench

3/16" Hex "L" Wrench

Pliers

Page 8

4. Open the loose parts bags, and sort the contents into piles on the floor or table. This

will make it easier for you to find the part(s) you need during assembly.

A. Handwheel Assembly .................... 1

B. Shaft Wrench ............................. 1

C. Arbor Wrench ............................ 1

D. Leveling Foot 3/8 ........................ 4

E. Hex Jam Nut 3/8-16 ..................... 8

F. Truss Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 1/2 ........... 48

G. Lockwasher Ext. 1/ 4 .................... 48

H. Hex Nut 1/4-20 ......................... 48

I. Screw Pan Hd. By BT 1/4 x 1/2 .......... 8

J. Rip Indicator ............................. 2

K. Bevel Indicator ........................... 1

L. Motor Support Cap ...................... 1

M. Pan Hd. Screw 10-32 x 1/2 .............. 1

N. Lockwasher Ext. #10 ..................... 1

O. Plastic Cover for J-Slots ................. 2

P. Switch Key ............................... 1

Q. Right Table Rail ......................... 1

R. Left Table Rail ........................... 1

S. Lock Handle With Rods ................. 2

Q,R

Page 9

T. Pan Hd. Screw Ty "T" 1/ 4-20 x 1-1 / 2 .... 5

U. Washer 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32 .............. 5

V. Rubber Bushing .......................... 5

W. U-Clip 1/ 4-20 ............................ 5

X. Tee Nut .................................. 3

Y. Soc. Set Screw 1/4-20 x 7/8 .............. 3

Z. Pan Hd. Screw Ty AB 1/4 x 1-1/4 ....... 4

AA. Washer 17/64 x 3/4 x 1/16 ............. 4

AB. Table Slide Button ..................... 2

Information

1. If you are missing any part while putting your saw together, do not continue assembly. Contact your Sears Service Center or Retail Store and get the missing part before continu-

ing assembly or trying to use the saw.

©u

iiiii. iiiUil z

AC. Lock Nut 1/4-20 ....................... 2

AD. Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 3/64 ........... 4

AE. Hex Hd. Screw 1/4-20 x 5/8 ........... 4

AF. Lockwasher Ext. 1/4 ................... 4

AG. Hex Nut 1/ 4-20 ........................ 2

Complete parts listing is located at the end of this manual. Use these lists to identify the number of any missing part.

2. Sometimes small parts get lost in packag- ing materials. Do not throw away any pack-

aging until your saw is put together. If you are missing a part, check the packaging be-

fore contacting Sears.

3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be fastened together using truss head bolts, lock-

washers and hex nuts of the sizes shown. (Figure 12) When different sizes are needed,

the instructions will include a sketch to help you locate the correct size.

@@ ©@

AC AD AE AF AG

Fig. 12 - Truss Head Bolt, Lockwasher, Hex Nut

4. As you assemble your radial arm saw, some of the holes in the parts will line up and

others will not. This happens because some parts are used in other equipment or for other purposes. Follow the instructions carefully.

The figures will show which holes should line up in each step.

5. If it is difficult to get bolts through the holes, you may need to use a Phillips screw- driver to help shift the parts into place.

Page 10

B. C.

D. E. F. G. H. I.

Left Side Panel ....................... 1

Right Side Panel ..................... 1

Shelf ................................. 1

Under Support ....................... 1

Skirts ................................ 2

Front Shelf Stiffener ................. 1

Corner Brackets ...................... 4

Spacers ............................... 2

Rear Shelf Stiffener .................. 1

Fig. 13 - Cabinet Assembty

1. Turn the shelf upside down on the floor.

The wide edge should point down, and the

three narrow edges should point up. (Figure 14)

Rear Shelf T

Stiffener _ e

• " Under Support

Front Shelf Stiffener

2. Place the front shelf stiffener inside and against the front edge of the shelf so that all

six holes line up. (Figure 14)

3. Place the under support on the shelf so that the two holes on one end line up with the

center holes on the other two parts. (Figure 14)

4. Line up the four holes in the under support with the four holes in the shelf.

5. Place the rear shelf stiffener on the shelf so that the two ends fit beween the edges of the

shelf and the two center holes line up with

the holes at the end of the under support. (Figure 14)

6. Put truss head bolts through the eight holes indicated. Put a lockwasher and hex nut

on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket..

7. Put a comer bracket in each corner of the

shelf (Figure 15)

Long End Of Shelf

, l

r_ ,

Long End Of Shelf

_Co-_rner Bracket

Shelf

Fig. 14

Fig. 15

8. Put two truss head bolts through the shelf and each comer bracket to hold the brackets

in place. Only put bolts through holes in the long edges of the shelf not the narrow ends,

as shown. (Figure 15)

Page 11

9. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

10. Find the right and left side panels. Look carefully to find the "R" and "L" stamped in the metal near the center of the wide edge. These stamps are the easiest way to tell the right sidepanel from the left. (Figure 16)

13. Put two truss head bolts through right side

panel and spacer, one on each side.

14. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each

bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.

15. Put a plastic cover over the J-shaped slot in the side panel. (Figure 17)

16. Repeat steps 11-15 with the left sidepanel.

17. Lay the shelf on the rear edge with the

bottom side toward you.

18. Place the right side panel on the right side

of the shelf. The spacer should be on the

inside of the cabinet. (Figure !8)

Fig. 16

11. Turn the right side panel so that the J-

shaped slot is at the bottom and facing you.

12. Put a spacer inside the right side panel as

shown. The side of the spacer with two round holes should be opposite the J-shaped slot in the side panel, and the side with one larger

hole should be on the bottom. (Figure 17)

Spacer

Two Round Holes

Fig. ¢7

Right Side Panel

-Shaped Slot

iI II

Plastic Cover

Bottom Side Of Shelf

Fig. 18

Right Side Panel

19. Put bolts through the four holes along the

bottom edge of the right side panel. Put a

lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.

(Figure 18)

Note: It is sometimes difficult to get bolts

through these four holes. You may need to use a Phillips screwdriver to help shift the parts into place.

20. Repeat steps 18-19 with the left sidepanel

and the left side of the shelf.

Page 12

21. Turn the cabinet right side up. Attach the

skirts to the top of the side panels, with one

on the front of the cabinet and the other on the back. (Figure 19)

Skirt ., Rear

Right Side Panel

Left Side Panel

Fig. 19

Shelf Front

Skirt

22. Use eight truss head bolts, lOckwashers, and hex nuts to hold the skirts in place. Hand- tighten. (Figure 19)

23. Put a truss head bolt through the hole at the back, right corner of the shelf. This hold

goes through the shelf and the right side

panel. (Figure 20)

25. Repeat steps 23-24 on the left side of the

shelf.

26. Put a truss head bolt through the back of the right spacer and front edge of the shelf.

(Figure 21)

t'\

f----i

i i

I I

I.... -3

I I

.... s

tP_

Fig. 21

)

Side Panel

Spacer

Shelf

27. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

28. Repeat steps 23-24 with the left spacer.

29. Move the cabinet to the location where

you will use your saw.

Right Side Panel

Rear

Fig. 20

Front

24. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

30. Put a hex nut on each of the leveling feet.

(Figure 22)

Fig. 22 - Hex Nut for Leveling Foot

31. Put the leveling feet through the holes in

the bottom of the side panels, at the four corners of the shelf.

32. Put another hex nut on each of the leveling feet and hand-tighten until they are

against the side panels.

Page 13

WARNING: Saw blade can roll for-

ward toward you if the leveling feet are

not correctly adjusted. Workpiece or saw can move unexpectedly if cabinet

rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off from blade contact. Adjust leveling

feet before using your saw.

33. If the leveling feet raise the front of the saw slightly higher than the rear, and if the cabinet does not rock, go to step 39, or

If the leveling feet do not raise the front of the saw slightly higher than the rear, go to step

34, or

If the cabinet rocks, go to step 34.

34. Loosen the bottom hex nut on the desired leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.

35. Loosen the top nut by hand.

36. Adjust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch wrench until the leveling foot is at the desired height.

37. Tighten the top nut by hand.

38. Repeat steps 34-37 for the other three leveling feet if necessary.

39. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16 inch wrench.

Attaching Handwheel

1. Place the handwheel on the front of the

saw. The front of the saw has a D-shaft that

fits into a D-slot in the handwheeL

2. Attach the handwheel using a screw and ex- ternal lockwasher. (Figures 23 & 24)

Handwheel

Fig. 23

o= ©

Fig. 24 - Screw and External Lockwasher

Mounting the Motor

A H_

JkWARNING: Plugging the saw in

during alignment can result in your fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from

blade contact. Do not plug in the saw at

any time during alignment. The saw

should only be plugged in when it is to be used.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw and remove

the guard from the motor.

2. Use the arbor wrenches to remove the blade from the saw. The arbor shaft has left-handed

threads, so you will have to turn the nut clockwise to loosen.

3. Lock the rip lock.

4. Raise the radial arm about 2 inches and remove the styrofoam packing blocks.

5. Clean the small pieces of styrofoam off the saw.

Page 14

6. Place the motor on the center channel of the saw and remove the three table boards and

fence.

7. Remove the lock nut and flat washer from the motor pivot support. (Figure 25)

8. Slide the motor onto the motor pivot support. Make sure that the motor is firmly in

place.

Fig. 25

9. Put the flat washer and locknut back in place and tighten using a 3/4 inch socket

wrench. Move the bevel lock back and forth as you tighten the locknut. Do not over-

tighten.

10. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it

will go. (Figure 26)

If the bevel lock touches the left side of the

yoke, unlock the bevel lock and tighten the

locknut on the motor pivot support. Then go to step 9 and repeat, or

If there is more than a 1/ 16 inch gap between the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke, unlock the bevel lock and loosen the locknut

on the motor pivot support. Then go to step 9 and repeat.

12. Repeat steps 9-10 until the bevel lock will

not touch the left side of the yoke, and the gap

is not more othan 1/ 16 inch.

13. Lock the bevel lock.

Mounting the Saw

1. Hold the saw by the front edge and the

back of the column support, and lift it onto the cabinet. Make sure that eight holes in the

bottom of the saw line up with eight holes in the top of the cabinet.

2. Fasten the saw to the cabinet with eight truss head bolts. Put a lockwasher and hex

nut on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket. (Figure 27)

Truss Head Bolt

Saw/

OaOnet\

"N,'

Lockwasher-_

Hex Nut

:11!iI1illl:

Cabinet Set

(Top View)

Fig. 27

Fig. 26

11. If there is a 1/ 16 inch gap or less between

the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke (and they are not touching), go to step 13, or 14

3. Check all the nuts holding the cabinet together and tighten them using a 7/16 inch

wrench or socket.

Page 15

Attaching Trim Ledge and

Trim Caps

1. Hold the trim ledge against the front of the

saw.

2. Reach through the top of the saw and use four screws to fasten the trim ledge in place.

Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver.

(Figures 28 & 29)

Trim Ledge

Fig. 28

Fig. 29 - Phillips Head Screws

3. Hold the right trim cap in place on the front right side of the cabinet. (Figure 30)

Fig. 30

Trim Cap

4. Reach through the top of the saw and use two screws to hold the trim cap in place. Tighten using a Phillips screwdriver.

5. Repeat steps 3-4 with the left trim cap.

Mounting Table Locks

The following parts are used in mounting the

table locks:

A°

B. C. D. E. F.

I. J.

Lock Handles with Rods ........... 2

Right Table Rail .................. 1

Left Table Rail ................... 1

Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 ......... 4

Lockwashers 1/4 .................. 4

Pan Head Screws 1/4x1-1/4 ......... 4

Hex Nuts 1/4-20 .................. 2

Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 3/64 ......... 4

Locknuts 1/4-20 ................... 2

Slide Button ...................... 2

B,C D

Fig. 31- Parts for Table Locks

1. Put a lockwasher on a hex head bolt. (Figure 32)

Fig. 32 - Lockwasher, Hex Nut, and Hex Head Bolt

2. Lift a lock handle and put the bolt through the hole in the mounting plate as shown.

(Figure 33)

Page 16

Square Hole----

Fig. 33

Lock Handle With

Mounting Plate Underneath

3. Slide the rod through one of the square holes in the front of the saw. Then put the hex head bolt through the round hole above it. (Figure 33)

4. Put another lockwasher and a hex nut on the bolt and tighten with a 7/16 inch wrench

or socket.

5. Repeat steps 1 - 4 on the other side of the

saw.

6. Turn the front table (44" x 17") upside down. The top of the front table has five large

holes and seven smaller ones. This side should be toward the floor.

7. Place the two table rails on the front table as shown. The tabs should point toward each other when both rails are in place, and the ec-

centric circles should be toward the floor.

(Figure 34)

Slide

Eccentric Circle Slide Button

Eccentric Table Rail

Circle Tab "_

Front Table - Upside Down

Fig. 34

8. Push a sfide button through the small hole in front of the eccentric circle on each table

rail.

9. Fasten the table rails to the front table using four pan head screws and flat washers.

Tighten with a Phillips screwdriver.

(Figures 34 & 35)

Fig. 35- Pan Head Screws and Washers

Page 17

Mounting the Front Table

The following parts are used to mount the

front table:

Tee Nuts ......................... 3

U-Clips 1/4-20 .................... 5

Mounting Screws 1/4-20 x l-l/2 ..... 5

Rubber Grommets ................ 5

Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 ......... 2

Washers 17/64-5/8xl/32 ............ 5

A C

D F

Fig. 36 - Parts for Mounting Table

1. Place a tee nut over each of the three

leveling holes and hammer them into place.

(Figure 37)

Mounting Holes

Leveling Holes

Leveling Hole

Mounting

Holes

Front Table - Upside Down

Fig. 37 - Leveling and Mounting Holes

2. Slide four U-clips over the holes in the saw as shown. (Figure 38)

Io]==

Fig. 30

3. Slide one U-clip over the hole in the left side of the center channel as shown.

(Figure 38)

4. Put a washer on each of the mounting

screws. (Figure 39)

Fig. 39 - Mounting Screw and Washer

5. Stand the front table on one edge.

6. Put a mounting screw through each of the mounting holes. Then put a rubber grommet

on the bottom of each mounting screw. (Figure 40)

Rubber

Grommet

Table Rail

Front Table On Front Edge

Fig. 40

Page 18

7. Place the front table on the saw so that the

mounting screws line up with the U-clips. The

front table should extend about one inch

beyond the trim caps.

8. Start the mounting screws into the U-clips using a Phillips screwdriver. Tighten the

screws until the heads are just touching the table. Make sure that the table is not

squeezing the rubber grommets. Otherwise, leveling the table later on will be difficult.

9. Start the leveling screws into the leveling holes using a 1/8 inch Hex-L wrench. Tighten

the screws until they are flush with the table.

10. Attach the left rod to the left table rail

with a hex head bolt and flat washer. Then put another washer and a locknut on the bolt,

and tighten using two 1/2 inch wrenches or sockets. (Figure 41)_

Left Table Rail

Fig. 41

11. Repeat step 10 with the right table rail.

Page 19

Location and Function of Controls

Fig. 42 - Radial Saw Controls

On/Off Switch

The on!off switch turns the power to the saw

on and off.

To turn the saw on, put the yellow key into

the red switch and then pull the switch to the right. To turn the saw off, push the red switch to the left. Remove the yellow key from the

red switch whenever the saw is turned off, and keep it out of the reach and sight of children.

(Figure 43)

Fig. 43 - On/Off Switch

AI& WARNING: The saw can start ac-

cidentally or be used by children and others when the yellow key is left in the red switch. Always remove the yellow

key when the saw is off, and keep it out

of the reach and sight of children.

£L

AI& WARNING: The saw will start im-

mediately when the power comes back on after a blackout if the red switch is

left on. Always turn the switch off and remove the yellow key when the power goes off for any reason,

Miter Lock

The miter lock is used to hold the radial arm

at various angles to the fence.

To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the

right. (Figure 44)

Page 20

Bevel Lock

The bevel lock is used to hold the blade at various angles to the table. To unlock the

bevel lock, move the lock to the right. Always hold the motor when you unlock the bevel lock. (Figure 46)

'_, CAUTION' The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured by the arbor shaft or blade. Hold the motor when you unlock the

bevel lock.

Fig. 44 - Miter Lock - Unlocked

To lock the miter lock, push the lock to the left. (Figure 45)

Fig. 46- Bevel Lock - Unlocked

Fig. 45 - Miter Lock - Locked

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45 °,

0°, and -45 °. You will feel the radial arm

snap into position at these miter angles. To unlock the arm when it is in one of these posi-

tions, pull the miter lock all the way to the right and move the arm as you hold the lock

in this position.

To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the left. (Figure 47)

Fig. 47 - Bevel Lock - Locked

Page 21

There are five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,

-45 °, 0°, 45 °, and 90 °. To unlock the bevel lock when the blade is at one of these angles,

move the bevel lock all the way to the right

and turn the motor while holding the lock in this position.

Swivel Lock

The swivel lock is used to hold the blade in

the crosscut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and to position the blade for molding or edging. To unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the

saw handle and pull the swivel sock toward

you. (Figure 48)

Fig. 48 - Swivel Lock - Unlocked

To lock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw handle and push the swivel lock away from

you. (Figure 49)

swivel lock when the motor is in one of these

positions, stand facing the saw handle, pull the swivel lock all the way toward you, and

turn the motor as you hold the lock in this position.

Rip Lock

The rip lock is used to hold the motor and blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.

It is used during ripping to hold the blade a desired distance from the fence while the

workpiece is fed through. It is used before

and after each crosscut to keep the blade from moving forward on its own.

To unlock the rip lock, pull the handle toward

the front of the arm. (Figure 50)

Fig. 50 - Rip Lock - Unlocked

To lock the rip lock, push the handle toward the rear of the arm. (Figure 51)

Fig. 49- Swivel Lock - Locked

The crosscut, in-rip, and out-rip positions of the blade are pre-set positions. To unlock the

Fig. 51- Rip Lock - Locked

Page 22

Handwheel

The handwheel controls the height of the

radial arm.

To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel

clockwise. To lower the radial arm, turn the

handwheel counterclockwise. (Figure 52)

Fig. 52- Handwheel

One complete turn of the handwheel moves the arm 1/16 inch.

The handle can be folded in by pushing the red button while pushing the handle in.

All Controls

Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks before making a cut on your radial arm saw.

When ripping, the rip lock must also be lock- ed. When crosscutting, the rip lock should be locked before and after each cut, when the

saw is in the rearmost position.

Page 23

Alignment of the Blade

The blade of your radial arm saw must be

aligned properly for two reasons: to make cuts accurate, and to prevent binding of the blade and workpiece which can cause jams or

thrown workpieces.

These adjustments must be done in order, before using your saw for the first time. If

they are not done in order the saw will not cut accurately. If you miss an adjustment, you must go back to the adjustment you missed and repeat all steps from that point on.

These adjustments are like fine tuning a piece of equipment. Often a series of steps must be repeated more than once in order to get the adjustment just right.

WARNING: Plugging the saw in

during alignment can result in your fingers, hand, or arm being cut off from

blade contact. Do not plug in the saw at any time during alignment. The saw should only be plugged in when it is to be

used.

Make sure that the blade and blade guard are

removed from the arbor shaft before begin-

ning to align your saw. Do not install the

blade or blade guard until you are instructed

to do so.

Adjusting Elevation

The goal of this adjustment is to make up-

ward and downward movement of the radial arm smooth and firm. If the column that sup- ports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to

move the arm up and down and to get ac- curate depth of cut. If the column is loose the blade may "walk" on the workpiece and stall

the motor, or cause a heel in bevel and com- pound cuts.

1. Use a 1/8" hex "L"wrench to loosen the

four screws in the front of the column support. (Figure 53)

Four Socket

2. Raise and lower the radial arm by turning the handwheel a few turns in each direction.

It should take about the same amount of ef- fort to lower the arm as to raise it.

3. If movement seems smooth and the column does not rock back and forth, go to

the next section, or

If movement seems difficult, loosen the four bolts in the back of the column slightly

(Figure 54) and go back to step 2, or

If column rocks back and forth, tighten the four bolts in the back of the column slightly

(Figure 54) and go back to step 2.

Page 24

Leveling Front Table.

The goal of this adjustment is to make the front work table flat and parallel to the radial arm. In order to do this, you will choose four points on the table. When these four points

are level, the entire table should be level. You will use two methods to make the four points level:

3. Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor. Hold onto the motor as you do this.

'_ CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut or injured if the arbor shaft hits you. Hold the motor when you unlock the

bevel lock.

•Tighten the mounting screws which pull down on the table making a given point

lower. (Figure 55)

4. Turn the motor until the arbor shaft is pointing straight down toward the table. (Figure 56)

•Tighten the leveling screws which push

up on the table making a given point higher. (Figure 55)

et 5 Mounting °e_ _lle

Screws

I_ Leveling Screws

Fig. 55

1. Loosen the three leveling screws and be

sure that the five mounting screws are snug but not overtightened.

2. Raise the radial arm until the bottom of the motor is about 2-1/2 inches above the

front table.

Fig. 56

5. Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor in this position.

6. Draw two lines on the front table, over the

table rails. (Figure 56)

7. Unlock the rip lock and pull the motor out to the end of the arm.

Page 25

8. Unlock the miter lock and swing the arm to

the right until the arbor shaft is over the right line.

9. Mark the point on the line under the cen- ter of the arbor shaft.

10. Move the arm and motor until the arbor

shaft is over the right line at the rear of the

front table.

11. Mark the point on the line under the cen-

ter of the arbor shaft.

12. Repeat steps 7-11 on the left side.

13. Label the points A, B, C, and D.

14. Move the arbor shaft over these points again, and measure the distance between the

table and the bottom of the arbor shaft at

each. Do not change the elevation of the arm as you move from point to point.

15. Determine which point has the largest dis- tance between the table and the arbor shaft.

This is the lowest point.

16. Move the arbor shaft over the lowest

point.

17. Place the handle end of the arbor wrench

over this point and lower the arm until the

arbor shaft is just touching the wrench. The wrench should slide back and forth with slight

contact. (Figure 57)

18. Move the arbor shaft over another point.

Do not change the elevation of the arm.

19. Tighten the mounting screws and/or level-

ing screws until the handle of the arbor wrench just fits between this point and the arbor shaft. The wrench should slide back and

forth with slight contact. Use a 1/8 inch Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling screws.

20. Repeat steps 18-19 for the last two points.

21. Lay the edge of the rear table across the front edge of the front table. There should be no gaps between the two.

22. If you see a gap larger than 1/32 inch, tighten the center mounting screw and/or the leveling screws until the gap is gone. Use a 1/8 inch Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling screws. (Figure 58)

Fig. 58

23. Repeat steps 21-22 at the rear edge of the

front table.

24. Unlock the bevel lock and return the motor to its original position with the arbor

shaft parallel to the table. (Figure 59)

Fig. 57

Page 26

o o

Fig. 59

2. Lock the table locks. If you cannot lock the table locks, go directly to step 5.

3. Pull up on the fence.

4. If the fence is held firmly, no change is needed. Go to the next section, or

If the fence is loose and can be pulled out of position, go to step 5.

5. Unlock the table locks.

6. Loosen the nuts under the circular clamps using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.

(Figure 60)

25. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock, swivel lock and miter lock.

Adjusting Table Locks

The table locks are designed to hold the rear table, spacer, and fence in place while cut-

ting. There are circular clamps at the back of

the table which are controlled by the table

locks. When locked, these clamps put pres-

sure on the rear table to hold it and the other pieces in place. If the circular clamps are too

close to the rear table, the locks cannot be locked. If they are too far from the table, the locks will not hold the pieces firmly in place.

_llb WARNING: Workpiece, rear table, fence, and/or spacer can shift during use

if table clamps are left loose. Your hands may slip, and could be cut off by blade

contact. Table locks must be adjusted to

hold rear table, fence and spacer firmly in place.

1. Put the fence in the front position, and the

spacer and rear table behind it.

3/16 Inch

Fig. 60

7. Turn each clamp until there is a 3/16 inch space between the clamp and the rear table.

Make sure that the rear table, fence and

spacer are firmly against the front table.

(Figure 60)

8. Tighten each clamp with a 7/16 inch

wrench or socket.

9. Go back to step 2 and repeat until rear table, spacer and fence are held firmly in

place.

Page 27

Squaring Crosscut Travel

The blade must travel perpendieular to the

fence along the radial arm in order for cross- cuts to be accurate. If the radial arm is not

perpendicular to the fence, there will be a slight miter angle in all crosscuts.

_l_ WARNING" Plugging in the saw dur-

ing alignment can result in your fingers, hands, or arm being cut off from blade

contact. Do not plug in the saw at any time during alignment. The saw should

only be plugged in when it is to be used.

1. Place the radial arm in the 0 ° miter posi-

tion and lock the miter lock.

2. Place the blade on the arbor shaft with a blade collar on each side. Make sure that the

directional arrow is on the outside of the blade, and the teeth are pointing down at the

front side of the blade. (Figure 61)

_i_ CAUTION: Overtightening the arbor

nuts may cause the blade collars to warp and the blade to wobble while cut- ting. Use the arbor wrenches to tighten

the arbor nuts but do not overtighten.

4. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor until the blade is over the front table.

5. Lock the rip lock, miter lock and bevel

lock.

6. Lower the radial arm until the blade is

just above the front table.

7. Lay a framing square on the front table with the long edge along the back of the table

and the short edge alongside the blade.

(Figure 62)

8. Move the framing square toward the blade until a tooth of the blade just touches the edge

of the square. (Figure 62)

9. Mark this tooth with a pencil.

10. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

back and forth along the radial arm. Do not

move the framing square.

I I. If the marked tooth just touches the

square at all points, no change is needed. Go to step 15, or

If the marked tooth moves away from the square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go to

step 12 (Figure 62)

Fig. 61

3. Place the arbor nut on the arbor shaft and use the arbor wrenches to tighten. The arbor shaft has left-handed threads, so you will

have to turn the nut counterclockwise to tighten. Do not overtighten.

Page 28

If the blade tried to "walk" on the square, tighten the top left screw to move the arm to the right. Then tighten the top right screw to meet the column. Go to step 14.

14. Move the motor back and forth along the

radial arm. Repeat step 13 until the marked

tooth just touches the square at all points.

Then go to step 15.

15. Tighten the bottom screws in the front of

the column support, switching from right to left several times so that you do not force the

radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten or

it will be difficult to raise and lower the

radial arm.

Fig. 62

12. Use a 1/8" hex "L"wrench to loosen the

four screws in the front of the column support

slightly, if you have not already done so in the Adjusting Elevation section. (Figure 63)

Four Socket

_ / LL_ ,d_ Head Screws

...........................i _LT__L___ __-

Fig. 63 _-----___

13. Use the top two screws to move the

radial arm into line:

If the blade moved away from the square,

tighten the top right screw to move the arm to

the left. Then tighten the top left screw to meet the column. Go to step 14, or

16. Raise and lower the radial arm. If this is

difficult, loosen the four screws in the front of the column support slightly and try again.

Loosen all of these screws the same amount so that you do not force the radial arm out of

line.

17. Repeat step 16 until movement of the radial arm is smooth but firm. Then go to step ! 8.

18. Lay a framing square on the front table with the long edge along the back of the table and the short edge alongside the blade, as

before.

19. Move the framing square toward the blade, and rotate the blade with your hand,

until the marked tooth of the blade just

touches the edge of the square.

20. Move the motor back and forth along the

radial arm. Do not move the square.

21. If the marked tooth just touches the edge of the square at all points, go to step 22, or

If the marked tooth moves away from the

edge of the square or tries to "walk" on top

of it, go back to step 13 and repeat.

Page 29

22. Set miter indicator on 0° position as shown. (Figure 64)

Fig. 64

23. Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence

and rear table back in place, lock the table clamp, and go to the next section.

Squaring Blade to Table

for Crosscutting

These steps are necessary so that your blade

will be perpendicular to the table and cuts will be accurate. If this is not done correctly,

your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.

1. Put the radial arm in the 0 ° miter position

with the blade over the front table.

2. Lock the table clamps and rip lock.

3. Place the long edge of the flaming square on the table and the short edge against the blade. Make sure that the square is against

the blade surface and not the set of a tooth. (Figure 65)

4. Turn the blade with your hand several times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure

66) Go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the the blade after any rotation (Figure 66), go to step 6.

Right

Square

[

Table

Wrong Wrong

Square j II_'L___--_ Square

I --/ r

Table Table

Fig. 66

6. Unlock the bevel lock, but do not move tile

motor.

7. Loosen the four screws behind the yoke using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench. (Figure 67)

Framing

Square

Fig. 65

Fig. 67

4 Socket

_Setscrews

8. Hold the square in place and move the

motor slowly until tile square is flush with tile blade.

Page 30

9. Hold the motor tightly and lock the bevel

lock. Do not let the motor move out of place.

10. Check the square to make sure that it is

still flush with the blade.

11. Tighten the four screws behind the yoke.

12. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2 inches above the table.

13. Unlock the bevel lock and move the motor

to the 45 ° bevel position. (Figure 68)

_, CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

If there is a gap between the square and the blade after any rotation, go back to step 6 and

repeat.

19. Install bevel scale indicator by inserting

one end into the opening in the yoke. Slide the indicator to one side and push until it snaps in

place. Tabs are located on the outside of the opening. Adjust indicator by sliding red line

to 0° position. (Figure 69)

Fig. 69

Fig. 68

14. Move the motor back to the 0° bevel posi-

tion and lock the bevel lock.

15. Lower the radial arm until the blade is

just above the table.

16. Place the long edge of the framing square on the table and the short edge against the

blade as before. Make sure the square is against the surface of the blade and not the

set of a tooth.

Squaring Blade to Fence

These steps are done so that your blade will

be perpendicular to the fence. This will help reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and

splintering of the workpiece and burning of the kerf when ripping and crosscutting.

Fig. 70 - Squaring Blade to Fence

1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position

with the blade just in front of the fence.

(Figure 70)

2. Lock the rip lock.

17. Turn the blade with your hand several times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

18. if the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to Step 19, or

3. Place the framing square with the long edge against both the fence and the table, and the short edge against the bla&, just above

the arborsh@. Make sure that the edge of the square is on the blade and not on the set

of a tooth. (Figure 70)

Page 31

4. Turn the blade with your hand several times and check to see if the square is flush with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure

71) Go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the blade after any rotation, go to step 6.

(Figure 71)

Square

Right

Fence

Fence Fence

Square Square

Wrong Wrong

Fig. 71

6. Unlock the swivel lock.

7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if

necessary. (Figure 72)

l'k _

4ULWARNINL_: The hex-L wrench may break when used with pliers to loosen

screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-

gles when using a hex-L wrench with pliers.

Fig. 72

8. Hold the square in place and turn the

motor until the square is flush with the blade.

9. Hold the saw handle tightly and lock the

swivel lock.

10. Check the square to make sure it is still

flush with the blade.

11. Tighten the four screws under the yoke

using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench. Do not use pliers!

12. Place the framing square with the long edge against both the fence and the table, and the short edge against the blade just above the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the edge of the square is on the blade and not on

the set of a tooth.

13. Turn the blade with your hand several times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

14. If the square is flush with the blade after each rotation, go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

Page 32

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping

1. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor

to the out-rip position with the motor be- tween the blade and fence. (Figure 73)

Fig. 73 - Out-rip Position

2. Lock swivel lock and rip lock.

3. Place the long edge of the framing square on the table and the short edge against the

blade alongside the arbor shaft. Make sure the square is against the surface of the blade and not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 74)

[ I

Fig. 74

4. Turn the blade with your hand several times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation (Figure 75) go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 75), go to step 6.

L I Right I_

Table Fence

Wrong _M_ Wrong

I l' _k. L I

Table Fence Table Fence

Fig. 75

6. Loosen the hex nut on the rear carriage

bearing. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the

bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut. (Figure 76)

Fig. 76

Page 33

7. Hold the square in place and use the 9/16 inch wrench to turn the bolt until the square is flush with the blade.

8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten the hex nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.

9. Turn the blade several times and check to see if the square is still flush with the blade.

10. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

11. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor

as far back as it will go.

12. Pinch the front carriage bearing with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you pull the motor forward with the other hand. Try to

keep the carriage bearing from turning.

(Figure 77)

Fig. 77

13. Move the motor as far forward as it will

go.

14. Pinch the rear carriage bearing with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you pull the motor toward the rear with the other

hand. Try to keep the carriage bearing from turning.

15. If you can keep either of the carriage bear-

ings from turning while the motor moves

along the radial arm, go to step 16, or

If you cannot keep the carriage bearings from turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.

16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each car-

riage bearing, and the track they ride on, with

a cloth to remove sawdust and other debris. Oil if necessary.

17. Loosen the hex nut on the carriage bear-

ing that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen

the nut.

18. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench

until the looseness is gone.

19. Hold the bolt firmly with the 9/16 inch

wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2 inch wrench. Do not overtighten.

20. Adjust the other carriage bearing by the same amount so that the blade will still be

square with the table.

21. Repeat steps 11-15 to make sure that the carriage bearings are not still loose.

22. Place the long edge of the framing square on the table and the short edge against the

blade just above the arbor shaft, as before.

Make sure the square is against the surface of the blade and not on the set of a tooth.

23. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

24. If the square is flush with the blade, go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

Olade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

Page 34

Making Blade Parallel to

Table

These steps are done to help prevent the workpiece from being thrown or damaged when the saw is used for edging.

>,,,,,/--,il _ Ld aYi.._P_

I'1 '_", I I II-_P] -'_ ,r'--%

I I IV'-" I

k___!_, I I LI b ==_! I

Fig. 78

1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position.

2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2 inches above the front table.

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor so that the blade is parallel to the table.

(Figure 78)

,_ CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

4. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock and swivel lock.

5. Place the corner of the framing square against the fence so that the long edge is on the table under the blade and the short edge is sticking up in the air. Make sure that the

long edge is perpendicular to the fence.

(Figure 79)

J-;:- /_............ _

Saw Ha

-__ _--_- -: _- _" Framing Square

Fig. 79

6. Lower the radial arm until the blade just rests on the edge of the framing square.

Make sure that the square is on the blade

and not on the set of a tooth.

7. Turn the blade with your hand several times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

8. If the square is flush with the blade after each rotation (Figure 80) go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 80) go to

step 9.

Right

Square "X_ _ Motor

Table

Square

Fe_l

Wrong Wrong

Square

/__tOr\nc_i ] __M°t°r

Table Table

Fig. 80

Page 35

9. Unlock the bevel lock.

10. Loosen the two screws on the back of the

motor support using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench

and pliers if necessary. (Figure 81)

_l_ WARNING" The hex-L wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in

the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-

gles when using a hex-L wrench with pliers.

16. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush with the blade.

17. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.

18. Snap the motor support cap into the back

of the motor support. The cap is in the loose

parts bag. (Figure 82)

Saw

Handle

Saw Handle

Motor Support

Capscrews

Fig. 81

11. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower the bottom side of the motor support until the square is flush with the blade.

12. Hold the motor firmly and lock the bevel

lock.

13. Check the square to make sure that it is still flush with the blade.

14. Tighten the two screws on the back of the

motor support. Do not use pliers!

15. Place the corner of the framing square

against the fence so that the long edge is on the table under the blade and the short edge

is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure that the long edge is perpendicular to the

fence.

Motor Support

Motor Support Cap

Fig. 82

Installing Guard / Setting

Spreader

The blade guard and the spreader are very

important safety features of your saw. The

guard covers a large part of the blade and

reduces the risk of amputation. The spreader rides in the kerf of the cut wood during rip-

ping, and helps keep the two sides from pinching the blade and causing a kickback.

WARNING" Fingers, hand or arm

can be cutoff from blade contact if the

blade guard is not used properly. Always put the proper blade guard on your saw

and adjust it correctly.

Page 36

WARNING: Kickback can occur if

the spreader is not in line with the

blade. You can be injured or killed. Al-

ways adjust the spreader and make sure

that it is directly in line with the blade.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw until it no

longer touches the metal plate. (Figure 83)

3. Make sure that the lower edge of the guard is parallel to the table. (Figure 85)

4. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor to the in-rip position, with the blade between

the motor and the fence. (Figure 85)

Guard Clamp Screw

Fig. 83

Metal Plate

2. Place the guard over the blade. You will feel the guard fall into place when the ridge

on the inside of the guard slides into the slot on the motor. (Figure 84)

Fig. 85 - In-rip Position

6. Lock the swivel lock.

7. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just above the table.

Fig. 84

8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor back until the blade touches the fence.

9. Lock the rip lock.

10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the

spreader in place.

11. Lower the spreader and antikickback

pawls until the spreader is against the fence,

and the pawls on one side of the spreader are on top of the fence. (Figure 86)

Page 37

ISpreader

Table

Fig. 86

12. If the spreader and blade both rest against the fence, no adjustment is needed. (Figure

87 -A) Go to step 17, or

If the spreader is in front of the .[once but not touching it (Figure 87-B), go to step 13, or

If the spreader hits the top of the fence

(Figure 87-C), go to step 13.

A - Right

Pawl--.--_ _

Fence -----[

...... i

Yablel

Spreader

Saw Blade

13. Loosen both nuts on the spreader using a 1/2 inch wrench.

14. Slide the spreader with your hand until it is against the fence directly behind the blade.

15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch

wrench. Do not move the spreader as you

tighten these nuts.

16. Check the blade and spreader again to

make sure that they are both against the

fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat.

17. Once the blade and spreader are in line, raise the spreader up to the guard and tighten the wing screw to hold it in place.

18. Unlock the rip lock.

19. Pull the motor forward so that the blade is away from the fence and lock the rip lock.

20. Unlock the swivel lock.

21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon with the blade and arm perpendicular to the

fence.

22. Lock the swivel lock.

B - Wron¢

Pawl ..__l_ti

_-_i!_Spreader

Fence -_I _ _

Table t

Saw Blade

Fig. 87

C - Wrong

Pawl Spreader

Fence

Table

Saw Blade

Page 38

Installing and Adjusting Rip Scale Indica- tors

NOTE: The rip scales indicators are intended

to be used for quick settings. Adjustments

will be necessary for blades of different thick- nesses. For greater accuracy take direct mea-

surements between blade and fence with ruler

or measuring tape.

1. Locate rip scale indicators in a loose parts

bag and slide indicators onto mounting brack- ets.

2. Unlock the swivel lock and move the blade into the OUT-RIP position. Lock the

swivel lock.

3. Measures 2" from rip fence to nearest tooth on the blade and lock rip lock handle.'

4. Adjust "out rip" scale indicator by slid- ing until indicator line reads 2 inches on the upper of the two "out rip" scales as illus- trated. Out rip scales are located on left side

of arm.

5. Unlock rip lock and move blade away from fence. Unlock the swivel lock and rotate

the motor to the IN-RIP position. Lock the

swivel lock. Push the motor until the blade rests against the fence.

6. Adjust "in-rip" scale indicator (located on right side of arm) by sliding until indicator

line reads "0" inches.

®1

2 Inches

Fig. 88 - Out-Rip Saw Position (Infeed End)

Page 39

Electrical Connections

Motor Specifications

The AC motor used in this saw is a capacitor-

start, non-reversible type having the following specifications:

Rated H.P .......................... 1.5

Maximum Developed H.P ............. 2.5

Voltage ........................... 120

Amperes .......................... 11.5

Hertz (cycles) ....................... 60

Phase ........................... Single

RPM ............................. 3450

Rotation of Arbor Shaft ......... Clockwise

Power Supply

_i, WARNING: Your saw is wired at

the factory for 120V operation. Connect to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and

use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit breaker. Failure to connect in this way

can result in injury from shock or fire.

,_, WARNING: To avoid shock or fire, if

power cord is worn, cut, or damaged in any way have it replaced immediately.

Your unit is wired for 120V and it has a plug that looks like the one shown below. (Figure

89)

3-Prong Plug

Grounding Prong

Properly

Grounded

Outlet

Fig. 89 - Plug for Less Than 150V

Your saw must be properly grounded. Not all outlets are properly grounded. If you are not

sure that your outlet is properly grounded,

have it checked by a qualified electrician.

_lb WARNING: If not properly

grounded this power tool can cause electrical shock, particularly when used

in damp locations.

£L _

A&WARNING: If an electrical shock oc-

curs, your reaction to the shock may bring your hands into contact with the

blade.

This power tool is equipped with a 3- conductor cord and grounding type plug listed

by Underwriters' Laboratories. The ground conductor has a green jacket and is attached to the tool housing at one end and to the ground prong in the attachment plug at the

other end.

This plug requires a mating 3-conductor grounded type outlet as shown above. If you have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it

is recommended that you have a qualified

electrician replace the it with a properly

grounded three prong outlet.

Page 40

_1_ WARNING: To maintain proper

tool grounding, whenever the outlet you are planning to use for this power tool is of the two prong type do not remove or alter the grounding prong in any man-

ner.

An adapter is available for connecting plug to 2-prong receptacles. The green grounding lead extending from the adapter must be con-

nected to a permanent ground such as to a

properly grounded outlet box. (Figure 90)

Grounding Lug

/ _ MakeSureZhisls

3-Prong Plug _:_'_ _lr_--":-_'-- Connected To A

_!1_ I_(_')11 Known Ground

__' __"""_ 2-Prong

/ Receptacle

Adapter

Extension Cords

The use of any extension cord will cause

some loss of power. Use the following table to determine the minimum wire size

(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire ex- tension cords which have 3-prong grounding type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which ac- cept the tool's plug.

Length of Conductor

Wire sizes Required

(American Wire Gage No.)

120V Lines

0 - 25 feet No. 16

26 - 50 feet No. 14

51- 100 feet No. 12

For circuits that are farther away from electri- cal circuit box, the wire size must be in-

creased proportionately in order to deliver ample voltage to the saw motor.

Fig. 90 - Adapter for 2-Prong Receptacles

'_ WARNING: The adapter illustrated

is for use only if you already have a properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.

Page 41

Crosscutting

Crosscutting is used to cut a workpiece to length. The workpiece is held against the fence. The saw blade is pulled through the workpiece. Cuts are usually made across the grain of the workpiece.

Types of Crosscuts

The basic types of crosscuts are shown below. Notice the hand and body position in each.

Fig. 91 Straight Crosscut

Fig. 93 Bevel Crosscut

Fig. 94 Compound Crosscut

Fig. 92 Miter Crosscut

Miter Bevel

Fig. 95 Basic Crosscuts

Page 42

Safety Information for

Crosscutting

Read and follow the safety information below before making any type of crosscut.

_lb WARNING

1. Set guard and anti-kickback pawls to

proper height to serve as a partial barrier.

2. The saw blade can throw the workpiece over the fence if the blade is

pushed backwards into workpiece.You

or others can be hit and injured by the thrown workpiece. Start a crosscut with the blade in its rearmost position.

3. If the blade is pulled through the

workpiece beyond the middle of the

blade, it can:

• pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the area, or;

• lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and pull your hand into the blade as the blade is returned. Pull the saw blade

through the workpiece to the dis- tance shown below.

4. Fingers or hand can slip into the saw blade as you make a crosscut. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the hand holding the workpiece at least 8 in- ches to the side of the workpiece, out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand

holding the workpiece in view at all

times.

5. The blade can come completely off

table edge beyond the 30 ° left miter

position. Fingers, hands, arms or legs can be cut off. Use the right miter posi-

tion whenever possible to make miter crosscuts.

6. The blade continues to turn for about

12 seconds after the saw is turned

off. Wait for the blade to stop before reaching for the workpiece.

7. If length stops are used on the cut-off end of workpiece, the cut-off end can

be thrown by the blade. The workpiece could hit and injure you or others in the

area. Do not use a length stop on the cut-off end of the workpiece. Use a length stop only on the end of the

workpiece which is held down.

8. Holding on to or touching the cut off end of the workpiece while the saw

blade is still turning can cause the workpiece to pinch the blade. The workpiece can be thrown and hit and in- jure you or others in the area. Do not touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cut-

off piece of the workpiece while the

power is on or the saw blade is turning.

9. The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces of the blade

violently. You can be blinded. Wear safety goggles.

Fig. 96 Blade Distance to Complete Crosscut 42

Page 43

10. The workpiece cannot be controlled or held stable enough to do free hand

cutting. The workpiece can be thrown or slip and pull fingers and hand into the saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut

off. Set the radial arm to the desired

cutting angle. Keep workpiece flat on

table and solidly against the fence.

Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate

the risk of injury from contact with the upper

half of the blade and the leading edge of the

blade when:

11. Saw parts loosen and wear with use. You or others can be injured. Keep

all parts tight and in working order.

• the guard is in the horizontal position

and;

12. The fence must be of at least equal height to the workpiece or else the workpiece can be lifted or thrown and hit and injure you or others in the area. See

Cutting Accessories section for instruc-

tions to make a fence.

• the pawls and spreader are set to

clear the top of the fence and workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

The Blade Guard:

13. The blade will try to pull itself

through the workpiece. Be prepared to

hold the saw handle back to keep the

saw blade from coming toward you.

14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or else the blade will suddenly come

toward you when you lower it to make a

crosscut.

15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep

one hand on the saw handle to keep the saw blade from coming toward you.

16. Cutting more than one workpiece at a time can cause you to lose control of

the workpieces, which can be thrown

and hit and injure you or others in the area. Cut only one workpiece at a time. Do not stack or lay workpieces edge to

edge.

• provides protection from contact with

the upper half of the blade;

• helps keep the workpiece from jam- ming in the guard and;

• helps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-kickback Bar, Pawls and Spreader:

• serve as a partial barrier to provide protection from contact with the lead- ing edge of the blade.

£k

A WARNING: To reduce the risk of

contact with the upper half of the blade and keep the workpiece from jamming

in the guard, set the blade guard in the horizontal position. Fig. 100.

Page 44

Crosscutting ChecMist

Use the following checklist at the beginning of each new cutting period to reduce the risk

of an accident.

Yellow key removed from red switch.

Saw unplugged and switch off.

No play in the carriage bearings, motor support or column. See Alignment of the

Blade section for instructions.

Arm slo_s to the rear and table level side to side.

Blade sharp.

Fen_.se_re, solid (knot free) and in eonditiom _ good

• iI

.-ence in correct table position.

not extend above the top

position and

bevel and table locks

to do.

Cutting Table and Fence

Kerfs

You will need to cut a new table kerf (shal- low cut) and fence kerf (slot left in the fence

from sawing through it with the blade), each time a new cutting angle is used. The table kerf lets the blade cut all the way through a

workpiece.

Fig. 97 Table and Fence Kerfs

Note: To extend the life of your table top, you can make an additional table top. See

Helpful Hints section.

Making Table and Fence Kerfs for Crosscut-

ting

To make a crosscut kerf in your table and fence:

1. Put your fence between the front table and

spacer board. Lock the table locks.

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be- hind the fence.

3. Lock rip lock.

Page 45

_i, WARNING: The saw blade will sud-

denly come toward you when lowered

into the table if the rip lock is unlocked. Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock

the rip lock before and after each

crosscut.

Fig. 98 Locked Position for Rip Lock

8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm in line with the saw handle as shown below.

4. Lower the radial arm until the blade al- most touches the table top.

5. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet. Check Electrical Connections section of manual if

you are not sure the outlet is grounded.

6. Wear safety goggles labeled ANSI Z87.1 on the package.

,'k

A WARNING: The saw can throw the

workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces of the blade violently. You can be

blinded. Wear safety goggles.

Blade throws

objects violently.

Wear safety

goggles.

Fig. 99 Safely Goggles Safely Sign

7. Insert yellow key into the red switch.

Fig. 100 Crosscut Blade Guard and Body Position

I'k

WARNING: Saw blade can sudden-

ly come toward you when turned on. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.

Keep one hand on the saw handle at all

times.

9. Turn the saw on.

10. Lower the saw arm slowly until the blade touches the table.

11. Turn the handwheel another 1/2 turn

more. This will let you make a 1132 to 1/16 inch kerf in the table.

12. Unlock rip lock.

13. Pull the saw blade forward through the fence and along the table as far as it will go.

14. Return the saw blade to its rearmost posi-

tion behind the fence.

15. Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the

saw handle.

16. Wait for blade to stop turning.

17. Lock rip lock.

18. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Page 46

Making Crosscuts

The following section contains safety informa-

tion and instructions for making crosscuts. Anyone who uses your saw should read and follow these steps.

WARNING: The blade guard must be

horizontal to provide protection from contact with the upper half of the blade and avoid the workpiece being jammed in the blade. Set the blade guard in the

horizontal position. Fig. 100.

DANGER: The anti-kickback pawls

serve as a barrier for the leading edge or the blade. Set the anti-kickback

pawls to clear the top of the fence and workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

A WARNING: The fence must be at

least equal height or higher than the workpiece you are going to cut or else the workpiece can be thrown and injure

you or others in the area. Install a fence

of at least equal height to the workpiece.

1. Put your fence in position A as shown and

lock the table locks.

B C A

" ql

i I

Fig. 101 Fence Position for Crosscut

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-

hind the fence.

3. Lower the blade into but not touching the

table kerr.

4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickback pawls to clear top of fence and workpiece by about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help provide protection from the leading edge of

blade.

5. Plug saw into grounded outlet.

6. Put on safety goggles.

7. Place the workpiece against the fence.

8. Unlock rip lock.

9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.

Zk _

&lkWARNIN(3: The saw blade tries to

pull itself through the workpiece. Be

prepared to hold saw handle back to keep the saw blade from coming toward

you. Keep one hand on the saw handle

at all times.

A _ &IWARNIN(3: If the saw blade is pulled

through the workpiece beyond the mid-

dle of the saw blade, it can:

• pick up and throw the cut-off sec- tion of the workpiece which could hit and injure you or others in the area, or;

• lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and draw your hand into the blade as the blade is returned.

Page 47

Pull the saw blade through the workpiece to the distance shown below.

Fig. 102 Distance Needed to Complete Crosscut

12. Support and hold the workpiece down and against the fence firmly with your left

hand.

13. Pull blade through fence and workpiece

just enough to complete the cut. Fig 102

14. Return saw to its rearmost position and continue to hold the saw handle.

15. Turn saw off.

16. Wait for the blade to stop turning.

17. Remove yellow key form red switch.

10. Insert yellow key into red switch.

11. Turn saw on.

AlL WARNING: Saw blade can be

pulled into or over fingers or hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.

Keep hand holding the workpiece at least 8 inches to the left of, and out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand in view at all times.

Repetitive Crosscuts

To make repetitive crosscuts:

1. Use two pieces of 1 inch by 2 by 2 inch

lumber.

2. Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.

3. Clamp pieces of lumber at the distance necessary to complete the crosscut.

Fig. 103 Hand Placement for Crosscuts

Fig. 104

Page 48

Ripping

Ripping is used to change the width of the

workpiece by sawing along its length. The

workpiece is fed into the saw blade. The fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually

made with the grain of the workpiece.

Saw Positions for Ripping

There are two saw blade positions for making rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.

In in-rip position, motor is toward the front

of the table, and blade is toward the fence.

Fig. 105 In-Rip ,Saw Position

In out-rip position, motor is toward fence and the blade is toward the front of the table.

Fig. 106 Out-Rip Saw Fosition (Infeed End)

_1_ WARNING: Stand only at infeed end

of saw. Feed workpiece only into infeed end of saw as shown above.

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better

visibility of both the workpiece and your hands than does the out-rip saw position. The only time you should use the out-rip saw

position is when the workpiece is 14 inches or wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest part of the workpiece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

A _

IILWARNINbi: If the blade is set between 2

inches and 6 inches from the fence, hands

will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Use a push stick.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how to make and use a push stick.

WARNING: If the blade is set between

1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands

will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers/hand can be cut off. Use an auxiliary fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from

the fence and use a push block and auxiliary fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

Page 49

Safety Information for

Ripping

Read and follow the safety information below before making any type of rip cut.

DANGER

1. Kickback can happen when the saw blade is pinched or bound by the

workpiece. This creates force in the op-

posite direction to which the workpiece is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab

and throw the workpiece violently back out of the saw.

2. One of the most common and the

most dangerous mistakes people make is to reach for the workpiece at the out-

feed side of the saw. DON'T ! The workpiece could kickback as you reach

for, touch or try to pull the workpiece through the blade. You can lose your

fingers, hand, or arm. The blade guard does NOT provide complete protection

at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach for the workpiece at outfeed end of the

saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut

off. Follow instructions for ripping.

Kickback,

Blade Contact.

Fingers, hand or arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for ripping.

Fig. 107 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. The workpiece can also kickback violently toward you during a rip cut. You can be hit hard enough to cause

broken bones and/or internal injury. Keep blade guard, anti-kickback pawls

and spreader in place and adjusted. Apply feed pressure to the section of the workpiece next to the fence. Do not apply feed pressure on the section of

the workpiece away from the fence.

Stand out of the path of the workpiece.

Kickback.

Broken bones/inter-

nalinjuriesresult.

Use pawls/spreader.

Stand out of

workpiece path.

Fig. 108 Kickback, Thrown Workpiece Safety Sign

Page 50

4. Non-thru cuts increase the chance of kickback because the anti-kickback

pawls cannot always grab the irregular

workpiece surface. Use a featherboard.

See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a featherboard.

5. The workpiece can snag or hang up on a fence with a kerr in it. The

workpiece can be thrown or pinch the blade, causing kickback. Use solid fen- ces when making rip cuts.

6. Wood cut with the grain can spring

the kerr closed, bind the blade, and

cause a kickback. Adjust spreader to ride in the kerr and prevent the kerr

from closing on saw blade.

7. Composition materials, like particle boards and plastics, may be cut on the

saw. Because these materials often have a harder and more slippery surface

than wood, the anti-kickback pawls may

not stop a kickback. Place finished side of workpiece down, roughest side of

workpiece up. Make anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments. Stand out of

the path of workpiece.

2. The workpiece can be grabbed by the saw blade and take off like a missile.

Anyone standing in the path of the workpiece can be killed.

Wrong Way Feed,

Blade Contact.

can be cut off.

Feed from infeed

end of saw.

Wrong Way Feed.

Thrown Workpiece.

Anyone hit can

be killed.

Feed from

infeed end of saw.

Fig. 109 Wrong Way Feed Safety Signs

Always feed the workpiece against the

direction of rotation of the blade, at the infeed end of the blade.

_1_ DANGER: wrong way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece into the end of the blade with pawls, the outfeed end. (Fig. 110) There are two things that can happen if you feed the

workpiece into the outfeed end of the saw blade:

1. The workpiece can be grabbed by the blade and pull your hands into the blade

before you can let go or pull back. Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off.

Infeed End of Outfeed End

Saw Blade of Saw Blade

"GER

Fig. 110 Infeed and Outfeed Ends of Saw Blade

Page 51

Blade Guard, Anti-kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and workpiece spreader are designed to reduce or

eliminate the risk of injury from blade con- tact, workpiece kickback and wrong way feed.

The Blade Guard:

• serves as a partial barrier to help

keep hands from contacting the blade at the infeed end of the saw blade.

• helps keep the workpiece from lifting or fluttering during ripping.

• helps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-Kickback Pawls :

• help reduce kickback by grabbing into and holding the workpiece.

• act as a barrier to provide some protection from blade contact.

The Spreader:

• helps keep the kerf of the workpiece open, which helps prevent the blade

from being pinched and causing workpiece kickback.

• when correctly set, helps reduce or

eliminate the chance of wrong way feed because it blocks the workpiece from contacting the saw blade.

'_ WARNING: The anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments must be made each time a different thickness workpiece

is cut to reduce or eliminate kickback.

Rip Cutting Checklist

Use the following rip cutting checklist at the beginning of each new cutting period to

reduce the risk of an accident.

Rip Cutting Chec ist

he rearand table level side

Arbor nut snug.

Blade sharp.

Fence secure, solid (knot free), no kerfs.

Fence in correct rip position.

Saw blade desired distance from the fence for cut.

Swivel, bevel, rip, miter and table lock locked.

Blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

6 inches offworkpiece.

Use push block if cutting between 1/2 and 2 inches off workpiece.

Use featherboard if making a non-through cut and when needed on through cuts.

Read and follow instructions for the type

of rip cut you want to make.

Page 52

Making a Rip Cut Table Kerf

You will need to make a table kerf before a rip cut can be made. Every time you move

the blade a new distance from the fence, you will need to make a new kerf.

1. Put saw in desired rip position and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table locks.

Blade Guard Adjustments

1. Unplug saw and remove yellow key.

2. Put saw in In-Rip position and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.

3. Adjust saw arm with handwheel until the saw blade almost touches the table top.

4. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet.

5. Put on safety goggles.

6. Insert the yellow key in the red switch.

7. Turn saw on.

8. Lower saw blade until blade touches the table.

9. Turn the handwheel about 1 full turn more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerr

in the table.

_WARNING: For workpieces 1/4 inch

thick or less, make the rip kerf at least

1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade from rising up on top of workpieces and violently throwing them.

10. Turn saw off and remove yellow key.

11. Unplug saw at the end of cutting session.

Adjustments for Ripping

DANGER: You will need to make

blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and spreader adjustments before making a rip

cut.

Fig. 111 In-Rip Saw Position

3. Lock rip, miter, bevel, swivel and table locks.

4. Go to the in-feed end of the saw blade. Fig. 110.

5. Put the workpiece on the table, in line with blade and under the nose of blade guard, so

it touches the blade.

6. Loosen the guard clamp screw and rotate the guard until the guard nose just clears the

workpiece. Fig. 112.

7. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

Infeed

Direction

Lder

Fig. 112 Blade Guard Position for Ripping

Page 53

Anti-kickback Pawls and Spreader Adjust- ments

1. Go to the outfeed end of the saw blade.

2. Put edge of workpiece beside the blade and under the pawls.

3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kick- back pawls and spreader until the spreader hangs next to the edge of the workpiece and

the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest on the workpiece.

Making Rip Cuts

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better visibility of both the workpiece and your hands than does the out-rip saw position. The only time you should use the out-rip saw posi-

tion is when the workpiece is 14 inches or wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest part of the workpiece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

411WARNING: If the blade is set be-

tween 2 inches and 6 inches from the fence, hands will be brought too close to the blade. Fingers and hand can be

cut off. Use a push stick.

Fig. 113 Anti-kickback Pawl Position

4. Tighten wing screw.

5. Go to the infeed end of the saw blade.

6. Push the workpiece a few inches in the direction of the cut and then pull the

workpiece back toward you. The pawls

should have grabbed the wood and stopped the kickback motion by grabbing into the

workpiece. If they did not, repeat adjust-

ments until the pawls grab the workpiece. If the pawls fail to grab the workpiece, sharpen or replace them. If that fails to work, use a featherboard. Repeat steps for making anti- kickback pawls and spreader adjustments

above.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from

the fence and use a push stick. Use a push stick when the distance between the saw

blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how to make and use a push stick.

_lb WARNING" If the blade is set be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers/hand can be cut off. Use an auxiliary fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from the fence and use a push block and auxiliary

fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

Page 54

_kWARNING: When making through

rip cuts do not set the blade closer than 1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary

fence, your hands will be brought too

close to the blade. Your fingers and hand can be cut off. Do not use a radial

arm saw to rip cut less than 1/2 inch wide workpieces.

1. Set the blade to desired distance from the

fence and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table locks.

3. Make blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjustments.

4. Remove workpiece from table.

5. Turn saw on.

6. Place workpiece under the guard nose, keeping workpiece edge against the fence.

7. Place one hand flat on the workpiece and next to fence.

8. Place the other hand behind the first so that your fingers are:

• on the back edge of workpiece;

• out of the blade path and,

• as close to the fence as possible.

a3, _

dUkWARNING: Even when all steps to

reduce kickback are taken, the

workpiece can still kickback. You or

others in the area can be hit hard enough to cause broken bones or inter-

nal organ injury. Stand out of the line of

the saw blade and workpiece.

9. Stand out of the line of the workpiece to be clear of workpiece in case of kickback.

Fig. 114 Hand and Body Position for Making an In-

Rip Cut

10. Position your body at the infeed end of

the saw blade. Start and complete the cut from that same side.

11. Push the workpiece, putting pressure on

the part of the workpiece between the blade

and the fence. If you push the part of the

workpiece on the other side of the blade, the

blade could be pinched and the workpiece will kickback.

12. Keep pushing the section of the

workpiece between the blade and the fence

until the piece has been pushed completely past the anti-kickback pawls.

_lb DANGER: The blade guard does

NOT provide complete protection at out-

feed end of the saw blade. The workpiece could kickback as you reach

for, touch or pull the workpiece through the blade, pulling your hand into the blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut

off. Do not pull, hold-down or touch the workpiece at the outfeed end of the saw.

Page 55

Kickback,

Blade Contact.

Fingers,hand or arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for ripping.

Fig. 115 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

13. Turn the saw off

_1_ WARNING: Blade continues to turn

for about 12 seconds after power is

turned off. Do not reach for cut workpiece until blade stops. Fingers or

hand can be cut off by the turning blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.

14. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Bevel Ripping

To make a bevel rip cut:

1. Set the saw in the desired position.

2. Index the arm to 0° and lock in position.

3. Bevel the blade to the desired angle.

4. Follow steps for making a rip cut.

Note: For dadoing, molding and edging, fol- low instructions for crosscutting.

Dadoing

1. Instructions for using dado blades are

provided with the dado blade.

2. The saw arbor is designed for a dado set up to 13/16 inches wide. Use of a wider dado

on the arbor could cause the dado and arbor nut to spin off. Take several passes of the

dado if cut required is greater than 13/16 of

an inch wide.

3. To avoid excessive load on the motor never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper than

1/8 inch in one pass.

4. When installing the dado on the arbor, al- ways install the inside loose collar first to en-

sure good arbor nut engagement. Make sure the arbor nut is snug. Install the arbor nut directly against the outside of the dado.

Molding

1. Instructions for using the molding head are

provided with the molding head.

2. Use of molding head or drum sander with the saw arbor vertical requires an opening

(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor

clearance. See Cutting Accessories section to make a molding fence.

Edging

1. Edging requires the use of a dado or mold-

ing head in the horizontal position (parallel to table).

2. Use proper accessory guard when edging. See Recommended Accessories section.

_WARNING: Using the saw without the

proper accessory guard for edging is ex-

tremely dangerous. Hands, fingers or arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow

instructions for edging guard.

3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See Cutting Accessories section to make auxiliary fence for edging in the 0° miter position.

Page 56

,_ WARNING: If the auxiliary fence is

not used when the saw arm is in the 0° crosscut position, the molding head can-

not be located behind the fence for safe and proper operation.

4. Edging can also be done in the 30 ° left miter without the use of an auxiliary fence. Follow the instructions below.

3. Remove saw blade, dado, or other acces- sory from the saw arbor shaft before using

the accessory shaft. Do not use the saw with

accessories installed on both ends of the saw arbor shaft at the same time.

4. Make sure the unused shaft is covered by a guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid

being pulled into moving parts by hair, threads, clothing.

• Miter the arm to the left approximate-

ly 30°.

• Swivel the motor until bottom of motor is parallel to and facing the rip

fence and operating instructions label is visible.

5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the drill bit can break. You can be blinded or in-

jured if hit by thrown pieces. Do not use twist

drills longer than 7 inches.

6. Use a spade type drill of 1 inch diameter or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plas-

tic because the speed is not high enough for other types of materials.

• Follow all steps outlined on motor label as shown below.

Know this toot:

1 Read and Understand all warnings and InsIruclion$ on

saw in Owner's Manual and with recommended acces- series.

2 Properly guard the curling 3 Provide proper workp*ece

tool support

4 Position the culling Iool

behind the lence by mov-

ing the arm tO the left and clamping Ihe yoke so this label faces the lence, or construct an auxlhary lence per Owners Man-

-- ual

5 With power oHIhe switch

key removed lurn cutting tool by hand Io make sure

_1_ it does not Slrl_e guard,

fence or any othe¢ saw parts. _E_,t,I_

Fig. 116 Edging Label

Accessory Safety

1. For your safety use only recommended ac- cessories. Use of any other accessories may

increase the risk of injury. See Recom- mended Accessory section of manual.

7. Do not use other reduced shank drills.

8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of checking to see that adjusting wrenches are

removed from tool before turning it on.

9. When using the accessory shaft in the verti- cal position, swivel the motor 90 ° so that the

arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.

_,WARNING: Clothing, hair, jewelry can

be caught and pulled into an exposed arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be

broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft under the radial arm when using the ac-

cessory shaft.

2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because

they can break explosively and throw pieces.

You can be blinded or recieve a life threaten- ing puncture wound. Do not use grinding

wheels, abrasive/cut off wheels or wire wheels.

Fig. 117 Arbor Shaft Position When Usmg Acces-

sory Shaft

Page 57

Cutting Accessories

Fences

Fences are required for all saw operations.

Crosscutting requires fences with kerfs (slots) to match the path of the saw, because the saw blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence

to cut the workpiece.

Ripping requires a solid fence witt: no kerfs

or slots, because the fence serves as a guide for the workpiece being pushed into the saw blade. If the workpiece is pushed along a fence with kerfs, the workpiece can get

caught on a kerr, pinch the blade and cause the workpiece to kickback.

Make a new fence:

• when the fence used for crosscutting has weakened from having too many

kerfs cut in it;

• when you want to make a rip cut but the fence on the saw has kerfs;

• when you want to crosscut a workpiece higher than your current

fence.

To make a new fence:

1. Use 3/4 inch knot free lumber. Do not use

particle board or other composite material be-

cause they are not strong enough.

2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length of the table, and to a width equal to the

height of the workpiece plus one inch. The installed fence must be equal to or higher than the workpiece.

Push Stick

Push sticks are used during ripping when the blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from

the fence.

Make a push stick when:

• the blade is to be placed 2 to 6 in- ches from the fence;

• existing push stick has been damaged.

To make a push stick:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free) piece of lum-

ber.

2. Cut a piece 15 inches long by 1 5/8 inches wide.

3. Cut a 45 degree notch in one end as shown.

Slightly Less Than

Thickness of Workpiece

up to 3/8"---_.

--!- '2--h_

Notch--L- __._.

15 "_ 1/2

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 118 Push Stick Dimensions

Fig. 119 Way to Use Push Stick

Page 58

Auxiliary Fence and Push

Block

An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade

is positioned between 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence during ripping. An auxiliary

fence must always be used with a push block. Their purpose is to keep your hands away

from the saw blade. They are also needed

when you use the molding head.

Make an auxiliary fence when:

• the blade is to be placed 2 inches or less from the fence;

• an existing auxiliary fence is not the same width all along its length;

• the existing auxiliary fence has been

damaged by blade contact.

To make auxiliary fence:

1. Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood and two

pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.

2. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 44 inches long by 5 1/2 inches wide.

3. Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44 in- ches long by 3 5/8 inches wide.

4. Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44 inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.

5. Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood pieces together so that they line up square (flush) on an edge.

6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right angle to and flush against the 2 1/4 inch wide 3/4 inch plywood.

7. Reinforce with nails.

3/8" Plywood

This Face and This

Edge Must Be Parallel

3/4" Plywood

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 120 Auxiliary Fence Dimensions

Push Block

Push blocks are always used with an auxiliary

fence.

Make a push block when:

• the blade is to be placed 1/2 inch to 2

inches from the fence;

• you make the first auxiliary fence;

• existing push block has been damaged.

To make a push block:

1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood and one

piece of 3/8 inch plywood.

2. Cut the 3/4 inch plywood to 12 inches long by 5 inches wide.

3. Cut a triangular piece off each of two corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a

pencil in and down from the corners 1 1/4 in-

ches and cutting along the diagonal formed

by the points.

4. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 12 inches long

by 5 1/8 inches wide.

Page 59

5. Cut out a notch from the 12 inch side of the 3/8 plywood that is 9 1/2 inches long by

3/8 inch wide. The dimensions of the remain- ing 3/8 plywood are shown in Fig. 165.

6. Glue the 3/4 inch plywood on top of the

3/8 inch plywood so that their 12 inch sides

are square, as shown;

These Edges Must

Be Parallel

5-1/8 t_ _

3/4" Plywood

1-1/4 x

1-1/4

3/8" Plywood

2-1/2

318 318

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 121Push Block Dimensions

Auxiliary Fence for Edging

Make an auxiliary fence for edging:

• before doing edging with the arm at 0° miter position.

• when existing ones have been damaged.

To make a fence for edging:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot-free) lumber.

2. Cut to the dimensions shown.

Auxiliary Fence Spacer Table

Rear Table

7. Cut a piece of plywood 3/8 inch wide by 2 1/2 inches long and glue it to the underside of the 3/8 inch plywood in line with the edge

that sticks out. Do not use nails because if

you accidently cut into the push block with

the saw blade, the nails will dull the blade.

8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary

fence to make sure that their widths match ex-

actly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.

l 45° --z545° "12-1/43/4

T'- ..L.

[ II I F--d l-

Note: All Dimensions in Inches 3/4--_ _'_'-_1

Fig. 123 Auxiliary Fence for Edging

For use of the molding head or drum sander with saw arbor vertical, the rear table re-

quires an opening (next to rear face of fence)

for arbor clearance. Cut opening directly below arbor in vertical position. Opening

dimensions are shown below.

Fig. 122 Way to Use Auxiliary Fence/Push Block

Rear Table-,. I ---,11._1_--3 j1_3-1/2

I--- T

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 124 Rear Table Opening Dimensions

Page 60

Featherboard

Featherboards are used during rip cutting to help keep the workpiece against the fence. The featherboard is clamped to the front

table, so that the angled edge of the feather- board is against the workpiece on the infeed

end of the blade. The other edge of the

workpiece is against the fence.

Make new featherboards when existing ones have been damaged.

1. Use solid (knot free) lumber 24 inches by 5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch.

2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 5 1/2 in- ches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down

on the right from the edge of the board. Draw a line between the points.

3.Crosscut workpiece at a 30 ° angle then rip to make the kerfs.

4. Do not clamp the featherboard against the cut off part of the workpiece.

24 5-112

5.-->-'--

4-1/2

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 125 Featherboard Dimensions

_ii_iiiili i i ¸¸....

Fig. 126 Wayto Use a Featherboard

Attaching Auxiliary Board to

Crooked Workpiece

If the workpiece you want to rip cut does not have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board

to the workpiece.

1. Place irregular side of workpiece against

fence.

2. Place straight edged auxiliary board on top

of workpiece and against fence.

3. Tack the auxiliary board to the workpiece. The auxiliary board must not extend beyond the leading end of the workpiece and should

cover the workpiece width only enough to

pass between the blade and fence.

3. Use a fence that is equal to or higher than the combined height of the workpiece and auxiliary board.

Page 61

*Recommended Accessories

Item Cat. No.

Saw blades

(10" diameter with 5/8" hole) See Catalog

Caster 9-22254 Sanding Drum 9-25246

Drill Chuck and Key 9-2980 Dust Collector See Catalog

Molding Head Guard 8" 9-29523 Taper Jig 9-3233

Auxiliary Table Cover See Catalog

Miter Square 9-32056 Pin Router 9-32765 Extension Table 9-32787

Satin Cut Dado 7" 9-3257

8" 9-3253

8"Carbide 9-3264 Standard Cut Dado

8" 9-32475

Adjustable Dado

7"-24Tooth Carbide 9-3261 7"-32 Tooth Carbide 9-3262

7"-16 Tooth Carbide 9-3263

8"-48 Tooth Carbide 9-32708 Molding Heads

7"-BitsNot Included 9-3214 7"-27 Piece Set 9-3217

7"-15 Piece Set 9-3218 Sanding Wheel-10" 9-22723 Blade Stabilizer 9-2952 Cabinet Acessories

Shelf 9-22251 Door 9-22252

3 Drawer Set 9-22253

Books

PowerToolKnowHow Handbook See Catalog

Guards

Lower Retractable Guard 9-29009

(For 90° Crosscut Only)

* Recommended means that these accessories

are designed to fit this radial arm saw. Read and

follow accessory instructions on their use and

limitations.

Lower Retractable Guard A lower retractable guard which meets

OSHA requirements for occupational use of the radial saw is available. (See Note) The lower guard is designed to provide

protection from contact with the fiat sides of the blade when the radial saw is in the

90 ° crosscut position and in its rearmost position behind the fence. The lower

guard only provides protection against minor laceraUons and bruises.

_WARNING: The lower guard does

not provide protection during actual crosscutting or ripping, or from con-

tact in line with or at an angle to the saw blade teeth. When in the cut, the inner and outer guards ride on top of the fence or workpiece exposing the saw blade teeth. Fingers, hands or

arm can be cut off if the saw blade is contacted. Additional hazards are ex-

plained in the instructions accompan- ing the lower blade guard.

_lb WARNING: The lower blade

guard can get caught or jammed in fence and table kerfs, jam while set- ting up for and while making bevel and compound miter cuts and jam

during certain in-rip cuts. The workpiece or narrow cut-off pieces

could kickback causing your hands to be cut by the blade. Use the lower retractable guard in the 90 ° crosscut position only.

WARNING:

TO AVOID INJURY

SHUT OFF POWER

BEFORE CLEARING A

JAMMED LOWER GUARD

Fig. 127Lower Guard Label

Note: Employers are required to provide the lower retractable guard unless OSHA grants an exemption. This saw is designed for use in non- commercial settings.

Page 62

Glossary

Anti-kickback Pawls: Pivoted objects with

teeth which help prevent workpiece kickback. Arbor: The bar or shaft that holds the saw

blade.

Bevel: The slanting of the motor and blade to an angle between 0° and 90 °.

Crosscut: Cutting a workpiece to length.

Dado: Non-through cut which produces a

square sided notch or trough in the workpiece.

Featherboard: Device used to keep workpiece in contact with the fence during rip- ping.

Freehand: Performing a cut without the use of fence, guide or hold-down designed to prevent the workpiece from moving during the cutting operation.

Heel: Misalignment of the blade relative to blade travel path.

Infeed: The end of the saw blade where the

workpiece is fed during ripping; identified by

the absence of pawls.

In-Rip: Positioning the the motor toward the front of the table, the blade toward the fence.

Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by the blade in a through cut, or a shallow slot produced by the blade in a non-through cut.

Kickback: Uncontrolled throwing of the workpiece during ripping.

Miter: Positioning the saw arm to the right or left of 0°.

Molding Cut: Non-through cut which produces a contoured surface on the workpiece.

Outfeed: The end of the saw blade where the

rip cut workpiece leaves the saw blade; iden-

tified by presence of pawls.

Out-rip: Positioning the motor toward the fence, the blade toward the front of the table during ripping.

Parallel: When two surfaces are the same dis- tance apart at all points.

Perpendicular: When two surfaces are 90° (square) to each other.

Push Block!Auxiliary Fence: Two accessories used together for ripping a workpiece be- tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide.

Push Stick: Cutting accessory used during rip- ping a workpiece between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches wide.

Revolutions Per Minute (RPM): Number of turns completed by an object in one minute.

Ripping: Used to change the width of a workpiece by cutting along its length.

Spreader: Used during ripping to keep the kerf from closing and pinching the blade. It helps prevent kickback.

Workpiece: Object being cut by the saw.

Page 63

Helpful Hints

In order to get accurate cutting results from your radial arm saw, do the following:

1. Follow all steps in the Alignment of

the Blade section.

2. Place the long edge of your framing square against the edge of the workpiece that will be held against the fence during cutting. Make sure that

this edge of the workpiece is straight.

3. Make sure that your workpiece lays flat on the front table of your saw.

4. Clean all sawdust and woodchips from the table.

5. Hold the workpiece firmly against the fence and table during all cuts. You should use extra force during miter and bevel cuts since the workpiece tends to move when these cuts are made.

6. Use the right sawblade for each job,

and make sure that all blades and cut-

ting tools are sharp.

3. Place the same edge of the workpiece against the fence for all cuts. Make the

first cut at one end of the workpiece, then flip the workpiece over and make

the second cut from the other end. Con- tinue this way until all four cuts are

made. (Figure 128)

This Edge of Board Fence

Against Fence For All Cuts /

l /)-,I

Turn workpiece over end for end.,

keep same edge against fence when

making successive cuts.

///,.

2nd and 4th Cut

Pencil Line for

Gauging Required Length

_t Scrap

Fig. 128 Making a 4-Sided Frame

When making a four-sided frame:

1. Make sure that the top and bottom

pieces are exactly the same length.

4. Make a pencil line on the table for gauging the length of each cut.

2. Make sure that both side pieces are exactly the same length.

Page 64

Motor

To avoid motor damage this motor should be blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent

sawdust buildup which will interfere with normal motor ventilation.

If the motor fails to start, turn the power switch to the "OFF" position immediately. Remove the yellow key. UNPLUG THE

TOOL. Check the saw blade to insure that it turns freely and that its teeth are not wedged

into the table top. After the blade has been freed, try to start the motor again. If, at this

point, the motor still fails to start, refer to the "Motor Trouble-Shooting Chart."

If the motor should suddenly stall while cut- ting wood, the power switch should be turned off, remove the yellow key and unplug the power cord. Free the blade from the wood. The motor may now be restarted and the cut

finished.

Frequently blowing of fuses or tripping of circuit breakers may result if:

• Motor is overloaded: Overloading can oc- cur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is mis- aligned so that the blade heels.

• Motor circuit is fused differently from rec-

ommendations: Always follow instructions for the proper fuse/breaker. Do not use a fuse/breaker of greater capacity without consulting a qualified electrician.

Low voltage: Although the motor is de- signed for operation on the voltage and fre- quency specified on the nameplate, normal

loads will be handled safely on voltages not more than 10% above or below the name-

plate voltage. Heavy loads, however, re- quire that voltage at motor terminals equal the voltage specified on nameplate.

• Improper extension cord size.

t 0

Page 65

Maintaining Your Saw

General

l'k _

4UkWARNING: For your own safety,

turn power switch off and remove plug

from power source outlet before main- taining or lubricating your saw.

When you receive your new Craftsman radial saw, it requires no lubrication. The radial saw has been partially aligned and all bear-

ings are lubricated and sealed for life. In time, however, in order to keep your saw in perfect working order and accurate, it will be necessary to lubricate and realign. In fact your radial saw needs more of a cleaning

than a lubrication.

Replacing Antikickback Pawls

Make sure the teeth of the antikickbackpawls are always sharp. If they become dull they must be replaced. With a 1/2 inch wrench or

socket remove the 5/16 hex nut and old

pawls. Reassemble new antikickback pawls

and spreader to the bar. Check spreader for proper alignment and correct if necessary.

(See Alignment of the Blade, Installing

Guard / Setting Spreader section.)

Cleaning

Periodically remove any heavy build-up of sawdust that may accumulate on the saw. The absorbing tendency of sawdust will draw lubricants away from the areas where they are needed. Clean the carriage bearings and track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease accumulate repeatedly on carriage bearings and track inspect the wipers for wear and

replace if necessary. (See Adjustments to Compensate for Wear, Swivel Lock, later in

this section.)

To avoid motor damage the motor should be

blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent sawdust build-up which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation.

Lubrication

Your saw is precision built and should be kept properly lubricated. Before describing

the various points which may periodically re- quire lubrication, it is more important to first

mention the points which should not be lubri- cated.

Do not lubricate the following:

• carriage ball bearings

•motor bearings

• area between the miter locking rings and the column tube

The carriage ball bearings and motor bearings

are sealed ball bearings which require no added lubrication.

Do lubricate the following, periodically, using SAE No 10W-30 automotive engine oil:

• Apply a few drops of oil along the

swivel index pin and the bevel index pin

only if the pins have a tendency to stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for

easy access to the swivel index pin. Bevel to 45°and bevel indexpin can be easily accessed behind the yoke as il- lustrated. (Figure 129)

Page 66

• Lubricate the cam surfaces of the rip lock assembly.

• A light film of oil should be wiped on

the face of the column tube to lubricate the fit between the column tube and

column support. With elevation hand- wheel raise arm to upper limit.

.The thread on the elevation shaft as-

sembly can be lubricated through the oil hole in the center of the radial arm

cap. Lubricate ramp on the swivel index spring.

Fig. 129- Swivel and Bevel Index Pins

.Lubricate the bearing points where the

arm attaches to the column tube. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two

screws and the rear arm cover for ac-

cess to these points. Be careful not to get lubricant on the locking rings as this

will adversely affect the miter locking

function. (Figure 130)

•Apply a few drops of oil to the foot as- semblies, where the levers are inserted

through the rods.

Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any location will attract airborne dust particles

and sawdust.

Refer to parts lists for locations of parts as needed.

LOCKING RING

Fig. 130 - Bearing Points Where Arm Attaches to

Column Tube

Page 67

Adjustments for Wear

Bevel Lock

The purpose of the bevel lock is to lock the motor at any bevel angle. An adjustment is

required if the motor can be easily moved by hand when the bevel lock is locked or if bevel

lock offers minimal resistance when moving it to the locked position. To make this adjust-

ment:

Swivel Lock

This handle provides a friction lock between the upper face of the yoke and the bottom face of the carriage. It should eliminate any play or rotation between these two parts when

locked. An adjustment is required if the yoke can be easily rotated by hand when handle is locked or yoke lock handle offers minimal resistance when moving handle to the locked position. To make this adjustment:

1. Remove motor support cover.

2. Position the motor at approximately 30 ° bevel angle and lock bevel lock. (Figure 131)

Fig. 132

Fig. 131- Bevel Lock - Locked

3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex nut located at the back of the motor support casting until the motor can no longer be easily

moved by hand. Do not overtighten.

4. Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any of the five index positions. If the motor does not index securely the adjustment is too tight. Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel indexpin seats properly.

5. Adjustment is complete when both locking and indexing functions are working properly. Replace motor support cover.

1. Remove screw and nut from knob on

swivel lock. Remove knob from swivel lock

arm using a regular screw driver.

2. Remove the two screws from swivel lock arm. This will separate the wrench portion

from the arm portion of the swivel lock.

3. Using the wrench portion tighten the square nut one quarter rotation at a time. This is done by locating the wrench across the corners of the square nut then moving the

wrench until it lines up with the arm portion and the two screw holes are in line.

Page 68

Fig. 133

4. Holding the wrench and arm in position rotate yoke to a non-preset position and

rotate swivel lock to the locked position. If the

yoke can still be moved the square nut has not

been tightened enough. Repeat step 3.

5. When the adjustment is such that the yoke can no longer be moved when the swivel lock

is in the locked position. Install the two

screws.

6. Unlock swivel arm and rotate yoke to a non-preset position. Return yoke to a rip

position. If the index pin does not securely seat at the preset position, the adjustment is too tight. Remove the two screws and loosen

the square nut one quarter turn until swivel index pin seats securely.

7. Adjustment is complete when both locking and preset position functions are working properly.

8. Re-install the two screws mounting the wrench portion of the swivel lock.

9. Re-install knob to swivel handle and install screw and nut in knob.

Arm and Column

With the miter lock unlocked and in the unin- dexed position the arm should fit snugly to

the column tube and not allow any vertical

movement. If you can move the end of the

arm up and down an adjustment is needed.

1. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two

screws and the rear arm cover.

2. With a 9/16 inch wrench or socket tighten evenly the top two 3/8-16 hex head tapping

screws. The bottom two screws should also be tightened evenly but not as tight as the top

screws. (Figure 134)

Fig. 134 - Location of Hex Head Tapping Screws

3. This adjustment is correct when the arm moves firmly without vertical movement.

4. Re-install the rear arm cover.

Carriage Bearings

The carriage should roll freely but with some resistance for the entire length of travel. To

check for bearing looseness, perform the fol- lowing steps.

1. Place yoke in either the in-rip or out-rip

position.

611

Page 69

2. Push the carriage back against the rear stop.

3. Hold the front carriage bearing with your fingers as tight as possible and pull carriage forward at the same time. If you can prevent the bearing from turning an adjustment is re-

quired. (Figure 135)

Fig. 135- Front Carriage Bearings

4. Repeat step 3 with the rear carriage bear- ings.

To adjust the carriage bearings perform the following steps:

1. Clean and lubricate the bearing races and

the bead on which they ride prior to adjust- ment.

2. To adjust the bearing, use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the bolt head while using a

1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.

(Figure 136)

Fig. 136- Location of Hex Nut

3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn (left or right) as required to take up loose- ness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equal

amount to maintain blade squareness to the table in the rip positions.

4. Hold the head of the eccentric bolts in their new position and retighten the nuts. Do not overtighten. Overtightening the bearings will

cause difficult operation and severly reduce the life of the track and bearings.

5. Repeat the test procedure as described

above and readjust if necessary.

Miter Lock

The miter lock operates adjustable locking bands which lock the arm to the column tube

in both indexed and unindexed positions. If the arm can be easily moved by hand when

locked in an unindexed position the following adjustment must be made.

1. Move the arm to an unindexed position

and leave the miter lock in the unlocked posi- tion. (Figure 137)

Page 70

Miter Lock Handle

Fig. 137 - Miter Lock - Unlocked

2. With a 3/16 inch hex "L" wrench find the 1/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole

in the rear of the arm cover. To tighten turn

the wrench clockwise approximately 1/4 turn. (Figure 138)

Fig. 138 - Location ot Hex Socket Cap Screw

3. Lock the miter lock and try again to move the arm. Readjust if necessary.

4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push the miter lock into the locked position too much adjustment has been made. Turn the

wrench counterclockwise one half the amount of the last adjustment and try again

to lock the arm.

Rip Lock

The rip lock locks the carriage in any position

along the length of the arm. If the carriage can be easily moved by pushing and pulling

on the yoke handle when the rip lock is in the locked position an adjustment is required.

1. Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position

and with a 7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/4- 20 hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 139)

L!t

Rip Lock

Lever

Track

Spring Locknut

@ Washer

Cam Carriage

Bolt

Fig. 139 - Location of Hex Lock Nut

2. Lock the @ lock and try again to move the carriage. Make additional adjustments if

necessary.

3. Place the rip lock in the unlocked position and move the carriage back and forth from

stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to move at any point or you can feel the n_p lock

dragging on the track the adjustment is too tight. Loosen the hex nut one half the

amount of the last adjustment and try again.

Page 71

Trouble Shooting

Motor

Problem

A WARNING: To avoid injury, turn

power switch off and remove plug from power source outlet before trouble shooting.

Probable Cause

What to Do

Motor will not run.

Low voltage.

Check power line for proper voltage.

Motor will not run and

fuses blow.

Short circuit in line, cord, or plug.

Inspect line, cord, and plug for damaged insulation and shorted

wires.

Short circuit in motor or loose connections.

Inspect all terminals in motor for loose or shorted terminals

or worn insulation wires.

Incorrect fuses in power line.

Install correct fuses.

Motor fails to develop full

power.

(Power output of motor decreases rapidly with decrease in voltage at

motor terminals. For ex- ample: a reduction of

10% in voltage causes a

reduction of 19% in maxi- mum power output of

which the motor is capable, while a reduction

of 20% in voltage causes a reduction of 36% in maxi-

mum power output.)

Power line overloaded with lights, appliances, and other

motors.

Reduce the line load.

Undersize wires or circuit too long.

Increase wire sizes, or reduce length of wiring.

General overloading of power company's facilities. (In many sections of the country, demand for electrical power exceeds the capacity of existing generating and distribu- tion systems).

Request a voltage check from power company.

Page 72

Motor- 2

Problem

Probable Cause What to Do

Motor overheats.

Excessive feed rate when crosscutting or ripping.

Slow down rate of feed.

Improper cooling.

(Air circulation restricted

through motor due to sawdust, etc.)

Clean out sawdust to provide normal air circulation through

motor.

Saw blade has heel.

Refer to Making Blade Parallel

to Table section.

Motor starts slowly or fails to come up to full speed.

Starting switch will not trip due to low voltage.

Correct low voltage condition.

Motor stalls resulting in blown fuses or tripped cir-

cuit breakers.

Voltage too low to permit motor to reach operating speed.

Correct the low line voltage con- dition.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not have sufficient capacity.

Replace fuses or circuit breakers with proper capacity

units.

Frequent opening of fuses

or circuit breakers.

Motor overloaded.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not have sufficient capacity.

Reduce motor load.

Replace fuses or circuit

breakers.

Page 73

Saw Operations

Problem

Crosscuts not accurate 0° and 45 ° miter.

Probable Cause

Looseness between column tube and column support.

What to Do

Go to Alignment of the Blade, Adjusting Elevation.

Crosscut travel not square with fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade, Squaring Crosscut Travel.

Column is loose in support. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Arm not indexing properly. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Miter

Lock.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for Ripping.

Looseness between yoke and car- Go to Maintaining Your Saw, riage assembly. Adjustments for Wear, Swivel

Lock.

Sawdust between workpiece and Keep front table clean. fence.

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Saw cuts at slight bevel (not 90 ° to table).

Work table not properly leveled. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade not square to table. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for Crosscutting.

Carriage Bearings Loose Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for Ripping.

Bevel lock loose.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw, Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock.

Page 74

Saw Operations - 2

Problem Probable Cause

What to Do

Workpiece kerf rough

with tooth marks from

blade (also called heel).

Saw blade not square

to fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade, Squaring Blade to Fence.

Saw blade not parallel

to table.

Go to Alignment of the Blade, Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Using improper blade for finish cut desired.

Use proper smooth cutting blade.

Wood binds, smokes, and motor slows down or stops

when ripping.

Dull blade or warped board. Sharpen or replace the saw

blade. Do not use severely warped material.

Feed rate too fast. Slow feed rate.

Saw blade heels. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for Rip- ping.

Board pulls away from fence when ripping.

Workpiece strikes spreader when ripping.

Saw does not travel smoothly on arm.

Clamping force not suffi- cient at miter angles other

than 45 ° .

Saw blade has heel.

Spreader not in line with blade.

Dirty track.

Bad bearing.

Worn track.

Miter lock needs adjustment.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Go to Alignment of the Blade, Installing Guard / Setting Spreader.

Clean track and lubricate with light grease.

Replace bearing.

Replace track.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw, Adjustments for Wear, Miter

Lock.

Page 75

Saw Operations - 3

Problem

Probable Cause What to Do

Clamping force not suffi- cient at bevel angles other

than 45 o.

Bevel lock needs adjusting. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Bevel Lock.

Depth of cut varies from one end of the workpiece to the other.

Table top not parallel with arm.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade tends to advance through lumber too fast.

Dull blade.

Not advancing saw properly.

Replace or sharpen blade.

Draw saw blade across lumber

with a slow and steady pull.

Table cannot be leveled.

(Right side is higher than

left side with no adjustment

left, or vice versa.)

Column support shifted where it mounts to saw base.

Loosen the six bolts that hold the column support to the saw

base and shift arm.

Page 76

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

3 \

(SEE FIG. 7)

7 10

19 11

(SEE FIG. 3)

(SEEFIG. 8)

22 2

(SEE FIG. 2)

37 36

*(SEE FIG. 5)

FIGURE 1

Page 77

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 1

Key Part

No. No. Description

1 STD601103

2 STD551010

3 815857-1

4 815649 5 815777 6 816333-1

7 815778 8

10 806828-4

11 60128 12 60074

13 37384 14 815989 15 815762 16 815832 17 STD551012 18 STD522506 19 STD532512 20 815834 21 STD551225 22 STD541025 23 815990 24 STD541425 25 817113

817114

26 446188

*Screw, Pan Rec.

Type T 10-32 x 3/8

*Washer, Flat

13/64 x ! 7/32 x 1/16

Screw, Hex Washer Hd.

3/8-16 x 1-1/2

Bearing, Arm Scale, Miter

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Type "TT" 10-32 x 1/2 Indicator, Miter Arm Assembly (see Fig. 5) Table Boards Set (see Fig. 9)

*Screw, Pan Cross Ty T

1/4-20 x 1-1/2 Washer, 17/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

Screw, Hex Socket Set

1/4-20 x 7/8 Nut, Tee

Clip, "U" 1/4-20 Bushing, Rubber

Rod, Actuator

*Washer 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/32 *Screw, Hex Hd. 1/4-20 x 5/8 *Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 1-1/4

Bushing, Eccentric

*Lockwasher, External 1/4

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20

Button, Table Slide

*Nut, Lock 1/4-20

Rail Assembly, L.H. Rail Assembly, R.H

Washer, 17/64 x 3/4 x 1/16

Key Part

No. No. Description

27 815797

29 30 31

32 i815881 33 1815922

34 '815753 35 8O2955-7

36 815766 37 802279-8 38 62410 39 815764 40 STD601103

41 815869 42 815935

43 805589-5 44 815856-1

45 46 47 48 49

Screw, Pan Hd. Rec.

Type AB 1/4 x 1-1/4

Yoke and Motor Assembly

(see Fig. 3) Guard Assembly (see Fig. 6) Cabinet Assembly (see Fig. 7) Base and Column Assembly

(see Fig. 2) Cap, Trim R.H. Ledge, Trim Cover, Lever Ring, Push-On Lever, Lock Bushing

Pin Bracket, Pivot

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Type "T" #10-32 x 3/8

815980 60208 815774 816115 815773 SP5103 507787 507788 507789 507796

Cap, Trim L.H. Screw Pan Hd. Ty "BT"

1/4 x 1/2 Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2 Screw, Hex Wash Hd.

5/16-18 x 1-1/4

Bushing Nut, Push 1/4

Rivet 1/4 x 1/2 Cord with Plug

Cover, Rear Arm Owners Manual (Not Ills.)

Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.) Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.) Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.) Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Page 78

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

16J_

16/_/32

'iJ

16'

FIGURE 2

Page 79

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 2 - BASE AND COLUMN ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

4 5 6

7 8

Part

No=

815857-1

815649

141594-31

815774 815702 602O8 815763 816647

9 815672 10 330751 11 815754 12 815770

13 817149

14 815690 15 STD581043 16 63500

Description

Screw, Hex Washer Hd.

3/8-16 x 1-1/2

Bearing, Arm

*Screw, Socket Hd. Cap

1/4-20 x 1-1/4

17 63618 18 63614 19 STD523107

Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2 Lock Assembly Nut, Push 1/4

Latch Arm

Screw, Soc. Hal.

Ty "T" 1/4-20 x 3/4

Tube Fastener Bellows, Tube

Gib, Column Tube Screw, Locking Set

1/4-20 x 5/8

Support, Column Tube

*Ring, Retaining 7/16

Washer, Thrust

.502 x .927 x .031 Gear, Pinion Bearing Lift Shaft

*Screw, Hex Hd.

5/16-18 x 3/4

Key Part

No. No. Description

20 815772

21 STD582050

22 815699 23 STD511105 24 STD551210 25 815707

26 804182 27 9416187

28 STD551031 29 STD551131 30 STD541031 31 815646-2 32 8171O6

33 !STD541450 34 816977 35 816976 36 815771

37 815864 38 815273

39 !3540 40 ,63062

Bushing, Elevation

*Ring, Retaining 1/2

Shaft, Elevating Crank

*Screw, Pan Hd. 10-32 x 1/2 *Lockwasher, External #10

Handwheel

*Ring, Retaining

Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T"

5/16-18 x 3/4

*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16

I*Lockwasher, External 5/16

*Nut, Hex 5/16-18

Base Assembly Washer, Keyed

*Nut, Lock 1/2-13

Gear, Bevel Shaft, Elevating

Nut, Elevation Cover, Column Support

Screw, Truss Rec. Hd.

1/4-20 x 1/2

Wrench, Arbor Wrench, Shaft

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Page 80

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

MOTOR CORD

_ 15

\\ 16

_21 20

17 18

FIGURE 3

Page 81

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

12 16

1313

FIGURE 5

Page 82

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 3 - YOKE AND MOTOR ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

3 4 5 6 7

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

815803 810214-2

STD551225

STD551025

75128

808380-6

815682 815683 817162 815678 815679-1 805561-10 815791 815677 815813

!815836

Cap, Motor Support Screw, Low Hal.,

Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8

*Lockwasher, Internal 1/4

*Washer, 17/64 x 9/16 x 1/16

eMotor

Yoke Assembly (see Figure 4) Screw, Pan Hd.,

Plastite No. 8 x 1

Cover, Handle Handle

Grip

Washer, Shaft

Pin, Index

Washer, .505 x 7/8 x 1/16 Spring, Bevel

Lever, Bevel Lock

*Nut, Square 1/2-13

Wedge, Bevel Spring

Key

No.

Part

No.

18 815685

19 815788 20 815686 21 808380-2

22 STD600803

23 815676 24 455734

25 815674 26 815673 27 STD541450 28 62498 29 9-32668 3O 30495 31 9420474

32 815800

Description

Cover, Yoke Indicator, Bevel Knob, Bevel Lock

Screw, Pan Hd.,

Plastite No. 8 x 3/8

*Screw, Pan Hd.

8-32 x 3/8

Shaft Support Pin, Roll 1/8 x 3/4

Plate, Adjustment Plate, Index

*Nut Lock 1/2-13

Collar, Blade

tBlade, Saw

Nut, Shaft Screw, Hex Hd. Ty "T"

10-32 x 1/2

Scale, Bevel

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

l-Stock Item may be Secured Through the Hardware Department of Most Sears Retail or Catalog Order

Houses.

eAny attempt to repair this motor may result in unit misalignment and create a HAZARD unless repair is done

by a qualified service technician. Do not loosen the three screws holding the motor support to the motor. This assembly is factory aligned. Repair service is available at your nearest Sears Store.

Page 83

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

7 13 _14

20......_ 19

36 35

FIGURE 4

Page 84

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 4- YOKE ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9

10 11

12 13 14 15

Part

No.

810214-3

STD315485

STD551031

817181 815805 815806

159572-98

815689 STD551062 815817 STD541462 62636 815693 STD541425 273229

16 816497 17 815671

18 815804 19 815692

20 STD532507 21 808380-2

Description

Screw, Low Hd.

Cap 5/16-18 x 7/8 *Bearing, Ball .3150 I.D. *Washer, 21/64 x 5/8 x 1/32

Wiper, Track Support Indicator Indicator Rip Screw, Hex Wash

Ty "T" 8-32 x 1/4

Carriage

*Washer, .630 x 1-1/8 x 3/32

Nut, Sq. Lock

*Nut, Lock 5/8-11

Nut, Sq. 1/4-20 Bracket, Rip Lock

*Nut, Lock 1/4-20

Screw, Hex Hd.

Type "T" 1/4-20 x 1/2 Spring, Rip Lock Cam, Rip Lock Knob, Rip Lock

Lever, Rip Lock

*Bolt, Carriage 1/4-20 x 3/4

Screw, Pan Hd.,

Plastite No. 8 x 3/8

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Key Part

No. No. Description

22 23

24 25 26

STD541231 STD551131 815691 STD551012 815798 810214-2

28 815645 29 109529 3O 815679 31 81568O 32 9420474

33 815694 34 STD551031

35 63777 36 6O438

37 815807 38 STD41025 39 816988

40 816987 41 816986 42 STD512515 43 STD510602

44 62520

*Nut, Hex Jam 5/16-18 *Lockwasher, External 5/16

Ring, Yoke Index

*Washer, 17/64 x 7/16 x 1/32

Lockwasher, High Collar 1/4

Screw, Low Hd.,

Cap 1/4-20 x 5/8

Yoke Nut, Square 5/8-11

Pin, Index Spring, Swivel Screw, Hex Type "T"

10-32 x 3/8

Stud, Yoke Clamp

*Washer, 21/64 x 3/4 x 1/16

Bearing, Carriage

Washer, No. 2 Carriage

Bearing

Screw, Eccentric

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20

Knob, Swivel

Wrench, Adjustment Actuator, Swivel

*Screw, Pan Hd. 1/4-20 x 1-1/2 *Screw, Pan Hd. 6-32 x 1/4

Spacer

Page 85

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 5 - ARM ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

1 2 3 4 5

6 7

Part

No.

815688 815809 815774 815790 STD601103

815703 815856

8 815779 9 815716

10 815704 11 STD551208 12 803709 13 STD600803

Description

Arm, Radial Cable

Rivet, 1/4 x 1/2

Actuator Assembly

*Screw, Pan Rec.

Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8

Knob, Miter Lock Screw, Hex Washer Hd.

5/16-18 x 3/4

Bushing

Trim, Arm

Housing, Switch

*Lockwasher, Internal #8

Connector, Wire

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Type "T" 8-32 x 3/8

!Key] PaN

No. No. Desc_ption

14 816113 15 815863 16 815976 17 815938 18 815786

19 816178 20 815867 21 815708 22 815868 23 815670 24 346030

25 26 27

60208 815785 69138

Switch, Locking

Key, Switch Bezel, Switch

Pad, Guard Label, Trim L.H. Sleeve, Rubber Spring, Compression

Spring, Miter Lock Relief, Strain

Arm, Carriage Support Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Plastite #8 x 1/2

Push Nut, 1/4 Label. Trim R.H. Ring, Cord

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Page 86

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

, 10

18 1_ 11

o 2

FIGURE 6

Page 87

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 6 - GUARD ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

8 9

816264-1 120399 63258 63541 815816 STD551010 STD601103

STD541231 815815

Guard

*Nut, Square 5/16-18

Elbow, Dust Bar, Anti-Kickback

Guide, Anti-Kickback *Washer, 13/64 x 5/8 x 1/32 *Screw, Pan Hal.

Type "T" 10-32 x 3/8

*Nut, Hex Jam 5/6-18

Pawl

Key Part

No. No.

10 STD581050 11 63270 12 816341 13 60435 14 816070 15 166785-3

16 63538 17 STD510805 18 STD551208

19 STD541008

Description

*Ring, Retaining

Spreader

Bearing (Includes Key #10)

Grip Screw, Guard Clamp Screw, Wing 5/16-18 x 2-3/4

Clamp, Guard *Screw, Pan Hd. 8-32 x 1/2 *Lockwasher, External No. 8

*Nut, Hex 8-32

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Page 88

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

]

FIGURE 7

Page 89

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 7 - CABINET ASSEMBLY

Key

No.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Part

No.

805589-5 815898

STD541025 STD551225 817150

STD541237 816111 817108

Description

Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2 Skirt 44"

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20 *Lockwasher, External 1/4

Panel, L.H. Side

*Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16

Cover Spacer

Key

No.

10 11

12 13 14 15

Part

No,

803835-1 815942 815993 815991 817151 815889 816336 507795

Description

Foot, Leveling Stiffener, Shelf Support, Caster Support, Under Panel, R.H. Side Shelf, Lower Stiffener, Shelf Rear Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Page 90

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 8 - MOTOR ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

1 2 3 4 5 6

i507744

STD376116

64950

64951 64948

30582

Housing, Motor

*Capacitor

Screw, Type "T" Screw, Flat Head

Screw, Ground Cap, Shaft

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Page 91

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" RADIAL SAW

MODEL NO. 113.198311

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 9- TABLE ASSEMBLY

Key Part

No. No. Description

1 2 3 4

815757 815755 815758 817102

Table, Rear Table Spacer

Fence, Rip

Table, Front

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

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Operators

Manual

SERVICE

MODEL NO.

113.198311

10" RADIAL SAW

WITH 44" CABINET

HOW TO ORDER

REPAIR PARTS

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

Now that you have purchased your 10-inch radial saw, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Sears, Roebuck and Co. stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit.

The model number of your 10-inch radial saw will be found on a plate attached to your saw, at the left-hand side of the base.

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOW- ING INFORMATION:

PART NUMBER

MODEL NUMBER

113.198311

PART DESCRIPTION

NAME OF ITEM

10-INCH RADIAL SAW

All parts listed may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most Sears stores. If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. SP5103 Form No. SP5103 Printed in U.S.A. 11/}

Sears Craftsman 113.198311 Operator's Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual