Sears Craftsman 113.197410, Craftsman 113.197610 Operator's Manual

_ave This Manual

For Future Reference

..q/ _AIRS

Operators

Manual

MODEL NO.

113.197410

10" DELUXE ELECTRONIC

RADIAL SAW WITH

44" CABINET AND

2 DOORS

or

113.197610

10" DELUXE ELECTRONIC

RADIAL SAW WITH

44" CABINET AND

6 DRAWERS

Serial
Number
Model and serial numbers

may be found at the rear of
the base,

You should record both
model and serial number in

a safe place for future use.

CAUTION:

READ ALL
INSTRUCTIONS

CAREFULLY

h

MODEL 113.197610

MODEL 113.197410

I:RRFTgMRN

10-INCH ELECTRONIC

RADIAL SAW

• Assembly

• Operating

• Repair parts

j ,,_

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. SP5251 Printed in U.S.A.

FULL ONE YEAR WARRANTY ON CRAFTSMAN RADIAL SAW

If within one year Irom the date of purchase, this Craftsman Radial Saw tails due to a delecl in material or

workmanship, Sears will repair it, free of charge.
WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY SIMPLY CONTACTING THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE

CENTER/DEPARTMENT THROUGHOUT THE UNITED STATES.

This warranty applies only while this product is used in the United States.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights and you may also have other rights which vary lrom state Io state.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., DEPT. 698/731A Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684

Table of Contents

SeetionTitle Page Numbers

Safety Information ......................................... 3-6

Putting Your Saw Together ................................. 7-30

Location and Function of Controls ......................... 31-34

Alignment of the Blade ................................... 35-49

Digital Display ........................................... 50-55

Electrical Connections .................................... 56-67

Crosscutting ............................................. 58-64

Ripping ................................................. 65-73

Cutting Accessories ....................................... 74-77

Recommended Accessories .................................... 78

Lower Blade Guard Safety Information ........................ 79

Glossary ................................................... 80

Helpful Hints ............................................ 81-82

Maintaining Your Saw .................................... 83-89

Changing Motor Voltage ..................................... 90

Trouble Shooting ......................................... 91-96

Parts Lists .............................................. 98-116

Safety Information

The operator's manual contains safety infor-

mation, instructions and signs for your protec-
tion against serious injuries, including:

Loss of fingers, hand, arm or leg from contact
with the saw blade.

Eye injuries, including being blinded from
being hit by a thrown workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the saw blade.

Impact injuries, including broken bones and

internal organ damage, from being hit by a
thrown workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces

of the saw blade.

Shock, electrocution, or burn injuries from
contact with wires, motor or other saw parts.

Safety Symbol and Signal Words

The safety information in this manual is high-

lighted by the following safety alert symbol.

Fig. 1Safety Alert Symbol

The following signal words are used to indi-

cate the level of risk.

DANGER: Means that if the safety infor-

mation is not followed, someone will be

seriously injured or killed.

& WARNING: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone could be
seriously injured or killed.

CAUTION: Means that if the safety in-

formation is not followed someone may be in-

jured.

All of the safety information and cutting
steps are critical to the safe operation of the

radial arm saw.

Major Hazards

1. Workpiece Kickback

Kickback is an uncontrolled grabbing and
throwing of the workpiece during ripping. If

kickback occurs, the workpiece can hit

you hard enough to cause broken bones, in-

ternal organ injury or death. To reduce or
prevent kickback, read and follow the safety

information in the Ripping section of the
manual.

Kickback.

Internal injury can

result.

Use anti-kickback

pawls/spreader.

Fig. 2 Kickback Safety Sign

2. Kickback Followed by Blade Contact

Kickback followed by blade contact can hap-
pen when the saw blade is pinched or bound

by the workpiece during ripping. Kickback

can happen if you reach around the blade to
the end with the anti-kickback pawls, (out-
feed end), and try to hold-down or pull the
workpiece through to complete the cut. Your

fingers, hand, or arm can be cut off by the
blade if the workpiece kicks back.

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 3 Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. Wrong Way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the workpiece

into the end of the saw with the anti-kickback
pawls. The workpiece can be grabbed by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade

before you can let go or pull back. Fingers,
hand or arm can be cut off.

can be blinded.

Wear safety

goggles.

Fig. 6 Safety Goggles Safety Sign

_i, DANGER: Follow the 8 steps listed

below to reduce or eliminate the risk of
being injured when using the radial arm

saw. Failure to do so can result in a life
threatening injury or death.

Fig. 4 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign

If a workpiece is fed into the end of the saw
with the anti-kickback pawls, it can take off
like a missile. Anyone hit by the workpiece

can be killed. Feed the workpiece into the in-
feed end of the saw blade, the end that does

not have the anti-kickback pawls.

Wrong Way Feed.
Workpiece impact

can kill others.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 5 Wrong Way Feed Safety Sign

4. Thrown Workpiece Chips and Blade
Pieces

The saw can throw the workpiece, workpiece
chips or pieces of the blade violently. You
can be blinded. Wear safety goggles labeled
"ANSI Z87.1" on the package.

1. Lower the anti-kickback pawls and

spreader when crosscutting and ripping.

2. Set blade guard in horizontal position
when crosscutting.

3. Lower blade _ard nose only when rip-
ping.

4. Keep hands as far away from the blade
as possible when cutting.

5. Return the saw to its rearmost position
after each crosscut.

6. Wait until the blade has stopped turn-
ing before reaching for the workpiece or
anything else on the table.

7. Read and follow the safety information
and safety instructions in the operator's
manual and in the safety labels on the

radial arm saw.

8. Know location and function of all con-
trois before using saw. See the Location

and Function of Controls section.

I

Personal Safety

1. Wear safety goggles labeled "ANSI Z87.1"
on the package. Do not wear regular glasses,
they are not safety glasses.

2. Wear snug fitting clothes, short sleeve

shirts and nonslip footwear. Cover up or tie
long hair. Do not wear loose, baggy clothes,

gleves, neckties, rings, watches or any other

jewelry.

3. Wear a dust mask, with your safety gog-
gles, if cutting operation is dusty.

4. Wear hearing protectors, ear plugs or
muffs, if you use the saw daily.

5. Keep good footing and balance. Don't over-
reach.

Work Area Safety

1. Keep children, pets and visitors out of the

work area.

2. Make the work area child proof. Remove
the yellow key from the red switch and place
it out of reach and sight. Lock work area.

3. Keep floors dry and free from sawdust, wax
or other slippery materials.

4. Keep work area clean, uncluttered and

well lighted.

5. Use the saw in a dry. area. Do not use in
wet or damp area. Do not use outside.

6. Clear the table of all objects (adjusting
wrenches, tools, scraps of wood etc.) except

the work_iece to be cut, fixtures or clamps
before turning the saw on.

7. Do not do layout, assembly or setup work
on the table while the blade is turning.

8. Store items away from the saw. Do not
climb on the saw to reach items. Do not

stand on the table; the saw can tip over.

Saw Safety

1. Keep guards and anti-kickback pawls in
place and in working order.

2. Check for broken or damaged parts before
using saw. A damaged guard or other saw

part should be checked for alignment, bind-
ing, breakage and correct mounting to make

sure they are working properly. Repair or
replace damaged guards or other saw parts.

3. Unplug saw before doing maintenance,
making adjustments, and changing blades and

accessories.

4. Use clamps or vice to hold workpiece
when practical. It's safer than using your

hands and frees them to operate the saw.

5. Do not force the saw, saw blade or acces-
sories to do jobs they are not designed to do.

6. Make sure the yellow key is removed and
the red switch is in the off position before
plugging in the power cord.

7. Cut only wood, woodlike or plastic

materials. Do not cut metal materials.

8. Secure the saw to floor, wall, bench or
table if it slides, tips or walks during use.

9. Feed the workpiece against the direction
of rotation of the blade when ripping.

10. Turn the saw off before leaving work
area. Do not leave the saw until the blade

has stopped.

11. Lock the rip and miter locks before

moving the saw from one location to another.

12. Turn the saw off and remove yellow key if

the blade jams. Do not try to free a jammed
workpiece with the saw on.

13. Turn the saw off if it vibrates excessively

or makes an unfamiliar noise. Correct any
problems before restarting saw.

14.Rip workpiecesthat are longer than the

diameter of the blade being used. Do not rip

a workpiece that is shorter than the diameter
of the blade being used.

15. Cut only one workpiece at a time. Do

not cut stacked workpieces or lay them edge

to edge for cutting.

Workpiece Support Safety

1. Use additional supports for workpieces
which extend beyond the saw table. Large

workpieces can shift, twist, rise from table or

fall after they are cut.

2. Helpers can be hit by a thrown workpiece,
workpiece chips or pieces of the blade. Use
table extensions or other supports. Do not

use helpers.

3. Helpers can cause the workpiece to kick-
back. Do not use other people to support or
assist in feeding or pulling the workpiece. Use

table extensions.

4. When table extensions over 24 inches wide

are added to either side of the saw, make
sure you either bolt the saw to the floor or

support the outer end of the extension from

the floor with sturdy legs or an outrigger.

5. Use Only Recommended Accessories.
Follow" the instructions that come with the

accessories. Consult the owner's manual for
recommended accessories. Tile use of

improper accessories may cause risk of injury
to persons.

Blade Safety

1. Use blades marked for 3450 rpm or higher.

2. Do not use blades larger than 10 inches in
diameter.

3. Keep blade sharp and clean.

4. Do not cycle motor switch on and off rapid-
ly; the blade can loosen.

Safety Labels on the Radial Arm Saw

The following labels are on your radial arm

saw. Locate, read and follow the safety in-
structions and information contained in these

labels.

1. Wrong way feed label located on the out-

feed end of the blade guard.

f

[ DANGER

TO AVOID

INJURY DO NOT

FEED MATERIAL

INTO CUTTING

TOOL FROM

THIS END

% J

Fig. 7 Wrong Way Feed Labe/

2. Safety instruction label located on the
front of the saw near the handwheel.

I DANGERI

FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY:

t. Read and understand owner's manual

before operating machine,

2. Wear safety goggles complying with

ANSIZ87.t,

3. Keep hands out of path of saw blade.

4. Never reach around the saw blade.
5, Never perform any operation

"FREEHAND:"

6. Return carriage to the full rear position
after each cross-cut type operation.

7. Shut off power and allow saw blade to
stop before adjusting or servicing,

Fig. 8 Safety Instruction Label

3. Ripping safety label located on the motor.

I DANGER I WHEN RIPPING

1. Rlid and undefstlmd owrmt"s nlllmJal
before aang rmldllrm.

2. W4NIr _4_ gOg_S complying wit h

ANSI za7.1.

& Klmp hands out of_ h o/saw blade.

4. Know how to avoid "KICKBACKSY

5, Use "PUSH STICK" for narrow work.

6. Nev_ reBch around the _w blsde.
7 Never ftorm any ope_'lttlon

"FRE_HD:'

8. Shut off powq_r and allow saw bllK_ to
HOp _Ore _ju_ing or servicing.

Motor: 120 Volts 110 Amps 3450 R.P.M. 60 Hz, 1 Phase

Fig. 9 - Ripping Safety Label

5. Do not overtighten the blade; the blade
collar can be warped.

6

Putting Your Saw Together

Your radial arm saw is easy to put together,
however it will take time. Ask a friend to

help, and follow these assembly instructions.
It is important for your safety, and for the
quality of your cuts, that the saw be put

together with care.

This manual was written for two different
models of the radial arm saw: model

113.197610 has drawers for the cabinet, and

model 113.197410 has doors.

The following assembly sections should be fol-
lowed for both models:

Unpacking / Set up
Information

Attaching Handwheel

Mounting
Mounting

Attaching
Mounting
Mounting

Motor
Saw

Trim Ledge and Trim Caps

Table Locks
the Front Table

All other sections are labelled with the cor-
rect model number. Follow ONLY instruc-

tions that are meant for your model saw.
Both models work in the same way once they

are put together.

_1_ WARNING: Plugging the saw in
during assembly can result in electrical

shock or your fingers, hand, or arm

being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during as-

sembly. The saw should only be

plugged in when it is to be used.

Unpacking/Set up

Both Models

1. Some parts of your radial arm saw are
packaged in small boxes according to func-
tion. As you unpack, try to keep the contents

of each of the smaller boxes together and
separate from the others. This will help you

identify and locate the parts you need during
assembly.

The following parts are included with model

113.197610:

m_

B.
C.

D.
E

F.
G.

H.
I.

J.

K.

Basic Saw Assembly ............... 1

Operator's Manual ................ 1

Cabinet Box ...................... 1

Drawer Box ...................... 1

Caster/Foot Box .................. 1

Loose Parts Bags ................. *8

Trim Caps ....................... 2

Rear Table ....................... 1

Spacer .......................... 1

Fence ........................... 1

Front Table ...................... 1

*This is the total number of loose parts bags.
Two of these are packed inside the
Caster/Foot Box, and four are packed inside
a larger loose parts bag.

F

Fig. 10 - Parts for Model 113.197610

The following parts are included with model

113.197410:

A,

B.

C.
D.
E.
F.

G.

H.

Basic Saw Assembly ............... 1

Operator's Manual ................ 1

Cabinet Box ...................... 1

Loose Parts Bags ................. *7

Trim Caps ....................... 2

Rear Table ........................ 1

Spacer .......................... 1

Fence ........................... 1

Front Table ...................... 1

*Note: This is the total number of loose parts

bags. One of these is packed inside the

Cabinet Box, and four are packed inside a
larger loose parts bag.

Fig. 11- Parts for Model 113.197410

2. Identify the large parts of your saw before
beginning each section. Your task will be
easier if you are familiar with these parts.

3. Identify the tools required for assembly.
Make sure that you have all of the tools you

will need. (Figure 12)

7/16" Wrench

1/2" Wrench

9/16" Wrench

3/4" Socket

9/16" Socket
7/16" Socket

Socket Extension

Medium Screwdriver

#2 Phillips Screwdriver

Pliers

Framing Square

Pencil

3/16" Hex "L" Wrench

Socket Wrench

Fig. 12 -Tools Required

4. Open the loose parts bags, and sort the
contents into piles on the floor or table. This

will make it easier for you to find the part(s)
you need during assembly.

The following loose parts are included with
model 113.197610:

A. Drawer Fasteners ................ 48

B. Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20xl/2 ...... 78

C. Hex Nuts 1/4-20 ................. 78

D. Lockwashers 1/4 ................. 78

E. Rods ............................ 2

E Levers ........................... 2

G. Washers ......................... 2

H. Springs .......................... 2

I. Smooth Pins ..................... 2

J. Grooved Pins .................... 2

K. Retaining Plates .................. 2

L. Actuator Boxes ................... 2

M. Phillips Head Screws 10-32x3/8 ..... 4

N°

O.
E

Q.

R.

S.

T.
U.

Slotted Screws 1/4-20x7/16 ......... 4

Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20xl/2 ...... 16

Hex Nuts 1/4-20 ................. 18

Lockwashers 1/4 ................. 18

Spacers .......................... 2

Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20xl ......... 2

Leveling Feet ..................... 2

Hex Nuts 3/8-16 .................. 2

QC L

©o

0

Q p

J

3

_M

E

,._Y

Fig. 13 - Loose Parts, Model 113.197610

T

The following loose parts are included with

model 113.197410:

A.

B.
C.

D.

E.

E

G.
H.

I.

J.

Leveling Feet ..................... 4

Hex Nuts 3/8-16 .................. 8

Truss Head Bolts 1/4-20xl/2 ...... 62

Lockwashers 1/4 ................. 62

Hex Nuts 1/4-20 ................. 62

Pan Head Screws 6 ............... 4

Pan Head Screws 6-32x3/8 ......... 4

Plastite Screws 10 ................. 8

Magnetic Catches ................. 2

Hinges .......................... 4

C

F

D

o oI

J

Fig. 14 - Loose Parts, Model !13.197410

The following loose parts are included with
both models:

m.

B.
C.

D.
E.
E
G.
H.

I.

J.

K.

L.

M.

N.

O.

P.

Q.

R.
S.
T.
U.
V.
W.
X.
Y.
Z.
AA.
BB.
CC.

DD.

Handwheel ...................... 1

Arbor Wrenches .................. 2

Yoke Plug ....................... 1

Yellow On/Off Key ............... 1

Battery 6V, alkaline, size J ......... 1

Pan Head Screw 10-32xl/2 ......... 1

Lockwasher 10 ................... 1

Battery Cover .................... 1

Screw Pan Head 1/4-20x1-1/8 ...... 6

Locknuts 1/4-20 .................. 2

Washers 17/64x9/16x3/64 .......... 8

Hex Head Bolts 1/4-20x5/8 ........ 4

Lockwashers 1/4 .................. 8

Hex Nuts 1/4-20 .................. 8

Screw Truss Head 1/4-20xl/2 ....... 2

Mounting Screws 1/4-20xl-3/4 ...... 5

Washers 17/64x5/8xl/32 ........... 5

Rubber Grommets ................ 5

U-Clips 1/4-20 ................... 5

Tee Nuts ......................... 3

Leveling Screws 1/4-20x7/8 ........ 3

Pan Head Screws 1/4x5/8 ......... 4

Washers 17/64x3/4xl/16 ........... 4

Right Slide Arm .................. 1

Left Slide Arm ................... 1

Lock Handles .................... 2

Spacer .......................... 2

Table Support Channels ........... 2

Actuator Channels ................ 2

Bushing ......................... 1

Q

©R

©w

Z

® ©

AA DD

BB

o?

(/-d_,

cc

Fig. 15 - Loose Parts, Both Models

Information

Both Models

1. If you are missing any part while putting

your saw together, do not continue assembly.

Contact your Sears Service Center or Retai!
Store and get the missing part before continu-
ing assembly or trying to use the saw.

Complete parts lists are located at the end of
this manual. Use these lists to identify the
number of any missing part.

2. Sometimes small parts get lost in packag-
ing materials. Do not throw away any packag-

ing until your saw is put together. If you are
missing a part, check the packaging before
contacting Sears.

3. Most parts of your radial arm saw will be
fastened together using truss head bolts, lock-

washers, and hex nuts of the sizes shown.

(Figure 16) When different sizes are needed,
the instructions will include a sketch to help

you locate the correct size.

10

Fig. 16 - Truss Head Bolt, Lockwasher, Hex Nut

4. As you assemble your radial arm saw,
some of the holes in the parts will line up

and others will not. This happens because
some parts are used in other equipment or

for other purposes. Follow the instructions

carefully. The figures will show which holes
should line up in each step.

Model 113.197610

Beginning the Cabinet

The following parts are used in the cabinet as-
sembly for model 113.197610:

A.

B.
C.

D.
E.

F.

G.
H.
I.
J.

K.
L.

Right Side Panel .................. 1

Left Side Panel ................... 1

Shelf ............................ 1

Under Support ................... 1

Skirts ............................ 2

Front Shelf Stiffener .............. 1

Corner Brackets .................. 4

Lower Support ................... 1

Rear Supports .................... 3

Upper Support ................... 1

Front Support .................... 1

Rear Shelf Stiffener ............... 1

J

/

I

\

H

I

/ D

L

G /

/

G

Fig. 17- Cabinet Assembly - 113.197610

11

1. Turn the shelf upside down on the floor.

The wide edge should point down, and the

three narrow edges should point up.
(Figure 18)

Rear Shelf _'
Stiffener .

L

Front Shelf Stiffener -_

Shelf

Fig. 18

Under Support

Angled End Of

Lower Support

* j/

Lower Support

2. Place the front shelf stiffener inside and
against the front edge of the shelf so that all

sL,_holes line up. (Figure 18)

3. Place the under support on the shelf, so that
the two holes on one end line up with the
center holes on the other two parts.
(Figure 18)

4. Place the lower support under the shelf. It
should rest directly below the under support,
with the angled end sticking out. Line up the

four holes in these three pieces. (Figure 18)

Note: The angled end of the lower support is
a useful way to tell the front of the cabinet

from the back. The angled end is at the front
of the cabinet.

5. Place the rear shelf stiffener on the shelf so
that the two ends fit beween the edges of the

shelf, and the two center holes line up with

the holes at the end of the under support.
(Figure 18)

6. Put truss head bolts through the eight
holes indicated. Put a lockwasher and hex nut

on each bolt tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench
or socket.

7. Put a comer bracket in each corner of the

shelf (Figure 19)

Long End Of Shelf

\

Long End Of Shelf

Bracket

Fig. 19

8. Put two truss head bolts through the shelf
and each comer bracket to hold the brackets

in place. Only put bolts through holes in the
long edges of the shelf, not the narrow ends,
as shown. (Figure 19)

9. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt
and hand-tighten.

Attaching Casters / Building Foot Assemblies

The following parts are used in the caster and

foot assemblies for model 113.197610:

A.

B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.

H.
I.

J.

K.
L.

Casters .......................... 4

Actuator Boxes ................... 2

Levers ........................... 2

Rods ............................ 2

Retaining Plates .................. 2

Grooved Pins ..................... 2

Smooth Pins ...................... 2

Washers ......................... 2

Springs .......................... 2

Hex Nuts 3/8-16 .................. 2

Leveling Feet ..................... 2

Phillips Head Screws 10-32x3/8 ..... 4

A

Fig. 20 - Parts for Caster / Foot Assembfies

1. Put the casters (wheels) on the shelf and

comer brackets. Since the shelf is upside

down, the wheels will point up. Line up four
holes in each corner. (Figure 21)

Corner Bracket_

Shelf

/

/

Caster (Wheel)

Fig. 21

2. Put bolts through the four holes in each
comer. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each

bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or
socket.

3. Separate all of the parts for the foot as-

semblies into two groups. There are two sets

12

of identical parts. These will be put together
into left and right foot assemblies which are
mirror images of each other. (Figure 22)

6. Put a groovedpin through the hole in the

rod.

7. Put a washer and spring in place on the bot-
tom of the rod, and then slide the rod all the

way down. (Figure 24)

Rod

lare

Opening

Fig. 22 - Left and Right Foot Assemblies

4. Place an actuator box in front of you with
the C-shaped slot facing you and the closed

surface of the box to the left. This will be-
come the Ieftfoot assembly. (Figure 23)

C-Shaped Slot __ @

Actuator Box

Actuator Box

Grooved Pin

ksher And

Spring

Fig. 24 - Building Left Foot Assembly

8. Slide a lever through the C-shaped slot in
the actuator box, through the square hole in
the rod, and through the square opening in

the back of the actuator box. Make sure that
the lever bends toward the left. (Figure 25)

Lever - Bends

Toward Left

Fig. 23

5. Slide a rod halfway down into the actuator C-Shaped
box. Make sure that the threaded end of the

rod is down, and that the smaller square open-
ing in the rod is facing you.

Smooth Pin

_" Actuator Box

Fig. 25 - Building Left Foot Assembly

13

9. Apply a few drops of oil (SAE No. 10W-30
automotive engine oil) to the lever where it
passes through the square hole in the rod.

10. Put a smooth pin through the hole in back

of the lever. (Figure 25)

11. Pull the lever forward so that the smooth

pin is in the groove on the actuator box.

12. Place a retainingpIate over the smooth pin

with the smaller two holes on top.

13. Place two Phillips head screws in the top

two holes and tighten using a Phillips

screwdriver. (Figures 26 & 27)

Retaining Plate -

Small Holes On Top

Smooth Pin In Groove

Fig. 26

Fig. 27 - Phillips Head Screw

14. Put a hex nut on one of the leveling feet

and hand-tighten. (Figure 28)

Fig. 28 - Hex Nut for Leveling Foot

15. Screw the leveling foot into the rod until
the hex nut reaches the bottom of the rod.

(Figure 29)

Fig. 29 - Left Foot Assembly

16. Place the second actuator box in front of

you with the C-shaped slot facing you and the
closed surface of the box to the right. This
will become the right foot assembly.

17. Repeat steps 5-15 to put together the

right foot assembly. The lever should bend
toward the right in the right foot assembly

(see step 8).

Attaching Foot Assemblies

1. Find the fight and left side panels. Look
carefully to find the "R" and "L" stamped in
the metal near the center of the rear edges
(opposite the J-shaped slots). These stamps
are the easiest way to tell the fightpanel from

the left. (Figure 30)

R

Fig. 30

14

2. Lock the lever on the right foot assembly in
the down position.

3. Attach this foot assembly to the right side

panel by sticking the lever through the J-

shaped slot in the side panel, and screwing in
two slotted screws.

(Figures 31 & 32)

Right Foot Assembly _'_

_'_ J-Shaped Slot

Right Side Panel

Leveling Foot

Fig31.

Lever - Locked Down

Fig. 32 - Slotted Screws

4. Repeat steps 2-3 with the left foot assembly,
left side panel and left lever.

Finishing the Cabinet

1. Find the twelve outer brackets and twelve

center slides that will be put together to form

the slide brackets. (Figure 33)

2. Grease the twelve center slides on top and
bottom using the grease packets included with
your saw.

3. Slide each center slide into an outer bracket.
There are two notches on each center slide

that stick out on opposite sides. Make sure
that you insert the notch sticking out toward

the outer bracket first. This notch should stop

the center slide from sliding off the outer

bracket. (Figure 33)

4. Hold a rear support with the long tabs
down, short tabs up, and the solid surface
facing you.

5. Attach three slide brackets to the left side

of this rear support with three truss head

bolts. Make sure that you attach the larger

hole in the slide bracket to the rear support.
Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt

and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or sock-
et. (Figure 34)

Short Tabs

I01 s°''°

er Hole

ODLa_ge_ _acket

Center Slide Outer Bracket

/ l

Stop Tab Stop Tab Rear Stop

Stop Tab

Fig. 33

Fig. 34

6. Attach this rear support to the right side

panel with two truss head bolts. Make sure

that the long tabs are on the bottom and the
short tabs are on top. Make sure that the

solid surface is facing front. Put a lockwasher
and hex nut on each bolt and tighten using a

7/16 inch wrench or socket. (Figure 35)

15

Rear

Short

Rear Support-

Long Tabs

Right Side Panel

Inside Edge Of Side Panel _

Front

Fig. 35

7. Repeat steps 4 - 6 with another rear sup-

port and the left side panel. Attach the slide

brackets to the right side of this rear support

8. Attach the front end of each slide bracket
to a hole on the inside edge of the sidepanets

with six truss head bolts. Put a lockavasher

and hex nut on each bolt and tighten with a
7/16 inch wrench or socket. (Figure 35)

9. Lay the shelf on the rear edge with the bot-
tom side toward you. The angled end of the

lower support should point up.

10. Place the right sidepanel on the right side
of the shelf The slide brackets should be on

the inside of the cabinet. (Figure 36)

Angled End Of

pport

Bottom Side Of Shelf

Right Side Panel

11. Put bolts through the four holes along the

bottom edge of the right side panel. Put a

lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and
tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.

(Figure 36)

Note: It is sometimes difficult to get bolts
through these four holes. You may need to
use a Phillips screwdriver to help shift the
parts into place.

12. Repeat steps 10 - 11 with the left side

panel and the left side of the shelf

13. Turn the cabinet so that it is on the

wheels. Attach the skirts to the top of the side

panels, with one on the front of the cabinet

and the other on the back. (Figure 37)

Rear

Side Panel

i

Shelf

Left Side Panel Front

Fig. 37

\

Skirt

14. Use eight truss head bolts to hold the

skirts in place. Put a lockwasher and hex nut

on each bolt and hand-tighten. (Figure 37)

15. Put a truss head bolt through the hole at

the back, right corner of the shelf. This hole
goes through the shelf and right side panel.

(Figure 38)

Fig. 36

16

Rear

Right Side
Panel

Shelf

Fig. 38

Front

16. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt

and hand-tighten.

17. Repeat steps 15 - 16 on the left side of

the shelf.

18. Unlock the levers on the foot assemblies.

19. Turn the cabinet upside down so that the

leveling feet and wheels are pointing up.

20. Put a spacer between the shelf and the

night foot assembly.

21. Put a truss head bolt through the foot as-

sembly, spacer, and shelf to hold the spacer in

place. (Figures 39 & 40)

1/4-20 x 1 t___.:_ Spacer

Shelf

Side Panel

Fig. 39

17

Fig. 40 - Truss Head Bolt

22. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt

and tighten using a 7/16 wrench or socket.

23. Repeat steps 20 - 22 with the left foot as-

sembly.

24. Turn the cabinet back over onto the

wheels.

25. Move the cabinet to the location where
you will use your saw and push down on foot

levers to lock leveling feet in place.

WARNING: Saw blade can roll

forward toward you if the leveling feet are
not correctly adjusted. Workpiece or saw
can move unexpectedly if cabinet rocks.
Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off from
blade contact. Adjust leveling feet before
using your saw so arm slopes to the rear.

26. If the leveling feet lift the front two wheels
slightly off the floor and the cabinet does not

rock, go to step 28, or

If the leveling feet do not lift the front two
wheels off the floor, or

If the cabinet rocks, go to step 27.

27. Loosen the the hex nut on each leveling

foot and rotate until the front wheels are

slightly off the floor or until the cabinet does
not rock. Then tighten the hex nuts using a

9/16 inch wrench.

28. Put the last rear support in front of you
with the long tabs down, short tabs up and
solid surface facing you. Attach two slide
brackets to each side of this rear support using

four truss head bolts. Attach these slide brack-

ets"to the holes shown in the figure. Make

sure that you attachthe largerhole in each

slide bracket to the rear support. Put a lock-
washer and hex nut on each bolt and tighten

using a 7/16 wrench or socket. (Figure 41)

Slide Bracket Short

Front

Support -

Solid Surface

Sn dler

Hole

er Hole

Long Tabs

Rear Support - Solid Surface

Fig. 41

29. Attach the front support to the four sfide
brackets using four truss head bolts. Make

sure that the solid surface of the front support
is facing front. Put a lockwasher and hex nut

on each bolt and tighten with a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket. (Figure 41)

30. Put the upper support in place between
the rear and front supports. Make sure that
the upper support is inside the surfaces of the
other two parts. (Figure 42)

Larger HoJe

Last Two Slide Brackets

Smaller,
Hole

Upper Support

F

Support

Rear Support

i

Fig. 42

31. Put the last two slide brackets in place on
each side of the front and rear supports. Make
sure that the larger holes in the slide brackets

are in line with the rear support. (Figure 42)

32. Attach these slide brackets using four truss

head bolts. These bolts will go through the
slide bracket, rear or front support, and the

upper support. Put a lockwasher and hex nut
on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket.

33. Tilt this whole assembly and slide it into
place on the cabinet. Make sure that the front

support extends between the front skirt and
the angled end of the lower support, and that

the rear support is inside the cabinet.
(Figure 43)

Left Side Panel

Upper Support 4,

Rear Skirt

Front Skirt

/

Front

Support

\

'RearSupport

.4 g

Angled End Of Lower Support '

I

Fig. 43

34. Attach the upper and front supports to the

front skirt using two truss head bolts, lock-

washers, and hex nuts. Make sure the heads
of the bolts point down as shown. (Figure 43)

35. Attach the upper support to the rear sta'rt
using two truss head bolts, lockwashers and

hex nuts. Make sure the heads of the bolts

point down as shown. (Figure 43)

36. Attach the front and rear supports to the

lower support using four tress head bolts, lock-
washers, and hex nuts. (Figure 43)

18

37. Tighten all screws, except those on the
front and rear skirts, using a 7/16 inch wrench

or socket.

Putting Drawers Together

The following parts are used to assemble the

drawers in model 113.197610:

A. 10 inch Drawers .................. 2

B. 6 inch Drawers ................... 2

C. 3 inch Drawers ................... 2

D. 10 inch Drawer Fronts ............. 2

E. 6 inch Drawer Fronts .............. 2

F. 3 inch Drawer Fronts .............. 2

G. Center Slide Brackets ............ 12

H. Stand Slide Brackets ............. 12

I. Grease Packets ................... 2

J. _Drawer Fastener .................... 48

Note: The center slide brackets and stand
slide brackets have already been put together

in the Finishing the Cabinet section.

H

A,B,C_

Fig. 44 - Parts for Drawer Assembly

1. Find the six metal drawers and plastic

drawer fronts.

2. Slide the drawer fronts onto the drawers.
Make sure that the tabs on the plastic drawer

fronts slide over the metal drawers to help

hold them in place. (Figure 45)

Tab

Fig. 45

Drawer Front

Drawer

,_/_ F)stener

Drawer

3. Push a plastic drawerfastener'into each of
the holes to hold the drawers together.

(Figure 45)

4. Put the drawers aside. Do not put the
drawers into the cabinet until after you mount

the saw.

Model 113.197410

Building the Cabinet

1. The following parts are used in the cabinet

assembly for model 113.197410:

A°

B.
C.
D.

E.
F.

G.
H.

I.

J.

K.
L.
M

Right Side Panel .................. 1

Left Side Panel ................... 1

Shelf ............................ 1

Under Support ................... 1

Skirts ............................ 2

Front Shelf Stiffener .............. 1

Corner Brackets .................. 4

Lower Support ................... 1

Spacers .......................... 2

Upper Support ................... 1

Front Support .................... 1

Doors ........................... 2

Rear Shelf Stiffener ............... 1

19

4. Place the lower support under the shelf. It
should rest directly below the under support,
with the angled end sticking out. Line up the
four holes in these three pieces. (Figure 47)

Note: The angled end of the lower support is

a useful way to tell the front of the cabinet
from the back. The angled end is at the front

of the cabinet.

Fig. 46 - Cabinet Assembty - 1!3.197410

1. Turn the shelf upside down on the floor.
The wide edge should point down, and the
three narrow edges should point up.
(Figure 47)

5. Place the rear shelf stiffener on the shelf so
that the two ends fit beween the edges of the

shelf and the two center holes line up with

the holes at the end of the under support.

(Figure 47)

6. Put truss head bolts through the eight
holes indicated. Put a lockwasher and hex nut

on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket..

7. Put a comer bracket in each corner of the

shelf (Figure 48)

Rear Shelf _'

Stiffener

"!

Front Shell Stiffener

Under Support

Shelf J_

"'_ ""%0 0

_, Angled End Of

Lower Support

Lower Support

Fig. 47

2. Place the front shelf stiffener inside and

against the front edge of the shelf so that all
six holes line up. (Figure 47)

3. Place the under support on the shelf so that

the two holes on one end line up with the
center holes on the other two parts.

(Figure 47)

2O

Long End Of Shelf

¥

w ,_, ,

U;

%. "\1

L

__,,,,,, Long End Of Shelf

Corner Bracket

Fig. 48

8. Put two truss head bolts through the shelf
and each comer bracket to hold the brackets

in place. Only put bolts through holes in the
long edges of the shelf, not the narrow ends,

as shown. (Figure 48)

9. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt
and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

10. Find the right and left side panels. Look
carefully to find the "R" and "L" stamped in

the metal near the center of the wide edge.
These stamps are the easiest way to tell the
right sidepanel from the left. (Figure 49)

13. Put two truss head bolts through right side

panel and spacer, one on each side.

14. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on each

bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or

socket.

15. Put a plastic cover over the J-shaped slot

in the sidepaneL (Figure 50)

16. Attach two hinges to the right side panel
above the spacer, using four truss head bolts,

lockwashers, and hex nuts. Tighten with a
7/16 inch wrench. (Figure 51)

Fig. 49

11. Turn the right side panel so that the J-

shaped slot is at the bottom and facing you.

12. Put a spacer inside the right sidepaneI as
shown. The side of the spacer with two round
holes should be opposite the J-shaped slot in
the sidepanel, and the side with one larger
hole should be on the bottom. (Figure 50)

lflHinge

.,-------Right Side

Panel

Spacer

Two Round Holes

One Larger Ho

Fig. 50

Right Side Panel

_-Shaped Slot

Hint

Fig. 51

Spacer

17. Repeat steps 11-16 with the left side panel

18. Lay the shelf on the rear edge with the

bottom side toward you. The angled end of

the lower support should point up.

19. Place the right side panel on the right side

of the shelf The spacer should be on the in-
side of the cabinet. (Figure 52)

21

Angled End Of

Lower Support

Bottom Side Of Shelf

Fig. 52

ght Side Panel

20. Put bolts through the four holes along the
bottom edge of the right side panel. Put a
lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and

tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.
(Figure 52)

Note: It is sometimes difficult to get bolts
through these four holes. You may need to
use a Phillips screwdriver to help shift the
parts into place.

21. Repeat steps 19-20 with the left sidepanel

and the left side of the shelf.

22. Turn the cabinet right side up. Attach the
skirts to the top of the side panels, with one

on the front of the cabinet and the other on
the back. (Figure 53)

Skirt "_ Rear

4. Right Side Panel

Left Side Panel

Fig. 53

Shelf Front

Skirt

23. Use eight truss head bolts, lockwashers,
and hex nuts to hold the skirts in place. Hand-

tighten. (Figure 53)

24. Put a truss head bolt through the hole at
the back, right corner of the shelf. This hole

goes through the shelf and the right side

panel. (Figure 54)

Rear

Right Side Panel

Shelf

Fig. 54

Front

25. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt
and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or sock-

et.

26. Repeat steps 24-25 on the left side of the

shelf.

27. Put a truss head bolt through the back of
the right spacer and front edge of the shelf.
(Figure 55)

22

O

©

Fig_ 55

Side Panel

Spacer

©

Shelf

1

28. Put a lockwasher and hex nut on the bolt
and tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or sock-

et.

29. Repeat steps 27-28 with the left spacer.

30. Move the cabinet to the location where

you will use your saw.

31. Put a hex nut on each of the leveling feet.
(Figure 56)

Fig. 56 - Hex Nut for Leveling Foot

32. Put the Ievelingfeet through the holes in
the bottom of the side panels, at the four

corners of the shelf.

33. Put another hex nut on each of the level-
ingfeet and hand-tighten until they are

against the side panels.

a'k

8& WARNING: Saw blade can roll for-

ward toward you if the leveling feet are

not correctly adjusted. Workpiece or

saw can move unexpectedly if cabinet

rocks. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off from blade contact. Adjust leveling

feet before using your saw.

34. If the leveling feet raise the front of the

saw slightly higher than the rear, and if the

cabinet does not rock, go to step 40, or

If the leveling feet do not raise the front of
the saw slightly higher than the rear, go to

step 35, or

If the cabinet rocks, go to step 35.

35. Loosen the bottom hex nut on the desired

leveling foot using a 9/16 inch wrench.

36. Loosen the top nut by hand.

37. Adjust the lower nut with the 9/16 inch

wrench until the leveling foot is at the desired

height.

38. Tighten the top nut by hand.

39. Repeat steps 35-38 for the other three

leveling feet if necessary.

40. Tighten all four bottom nuts using a 9/16
inch wrench.

41. Slide the upper support into the front sup-

port to form an inverted L-shaped unit. Four

holes in each part should line up: two holes

at the top of the "L", and one hole on each

side. (Figure 57)

Upper Support

Front Support - Solid Surface

Fig. 57

42. Put two truss head bolts through the holes
on the sides of the "L". Put a lockwasher and

hex nut on each bolt and hand-tighten.

43. Put the L-shaped assembly into place in

the cabinet. The upper support should extend
between the front and rear skirts, and the

front support should extend between the front

skirt and the angled end of the lower support.

(Figure 58)

23

Front Skirt

\

Front /

Support

/

g

F_. 58

44. Put two truss head bolts through the rear
skirt and the upper support. Make sure the

heads of the bolts point down. Put a lock-
washer and hex nut on each bolt and tighten

using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.

Rear Skirt

,/

Upper Support

1. Lay the two doors side by side.

\ 2. Put a magnetic catch on the inside edge of

each door. (Figure 60)

Doors

\

Angled End Of Cower Support

Fig. 60

Magnetic Catches

45. Put two truss head bolts through the front

support, upper support, and front skirt. Make

sure the heads of the bolts point down. Put a
lockwasher and hex nut on each bolt and

tighten using a 7/16 inch wrench or socket.

3. Fasten using four pan head screws. Tighten
with a Phillips screwdriver. (Figures 60 & 61)

46. Tilt the cabinet back and put two truss
head bolts through the front support and the
angled end of the lower support. Put a lock-

washer and hex nut on each bolt and hand-
tighten.

Attaching Doors

Magnetic Catch

/

///_oor

Magnetic Stop Plate

Fig. 6t - Pan Head Screw

4. Attach a magnetic stop plate to the two
small holes on each side of the front support
using four pan head screws. Tighten with a
Phillips screwdriver. (Figures 62 & 63)

Front Support-

0

o_

0

Magnetic Stop Plate

Pan Head Screw

Fig. 59 - Parts for Door Assembly

Fig. 62

24

Fig. 63 - Pan Head Screw

5. Attach the doors to the hinges on the side

panels using eight plastite screws. Tighten

with a Phillips screwdriver. (Figure 64)

Fig. 64 - Plastite Screw

Attaching Handwheel

Both Models

1. Locate the handwheel, hex bushing, screw,

and lockwasher.

2. Place the hex bushing inside the handwheel.

3. The hex bushing has a small fiat on it which
matches a flat on the elevation shaft.

4. Align the two above flats and attach the
handwheel using a screw and lockwasher.

Handwheel

Mounting the Motor

Both Models

WARNING: Plugging the saw in

during assembly can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm
being cut off from blade contact. Do not

plug in the saw at any time during as-

sembly. The saw should only be

plugged in when it is to be used.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw and remove

the guard from the motor.

2. Use the arbor wrenches to remove the
blade from the saw. The arbor shaft has left-

handed threads, so you will have to turn the

nut clockwise to loosen.

3, Lock the rip lock.

4. Turn the handwheel in a clockwise direction
to raise the radial arm about 2 inches and re-

move the styrofoam packing blocks.

5. Clean the small pieces of styrofoam off the

saw.

6. Place the motor on the center channel of
the saw and remove the three table boards

and fence.

7. Remove the lock nut and flat washer from
the motorpivot support. (Figure 67)

3 .... •

Bevel Etlc_d e_"

Motor Pivot

Su

Fig. 65

Motor

Fig, 66 - Screw and External Lockwasher

25

8. Slide the bevel encoder to the top center

position so it will fit into the notch on the
motor support bracket. (Figure 67)

9. Slide the motor onto the motorpivot sup-

port. Make sure that the motor is firmly in

place.

10. Put the flat washer and locknut back in

place and tighten using a 3/4 inch socket
wrench. Move the bevel lock back and forth

as you tighten the locknut. Do not over-
tighten.

11. Push the bevel lock to the left as far as it
will go. (Figure 68)

_ Bevel Lock

Fig. 68

14. Lock the bevel lock.

15. Snap the yoke plug into place. The yoke

plug is in the loose parts bag.

Mounting the Saw

Both Models

1. Hold the saw by the front edge and the

back of the column support, and lift it onto
the cabinet. Make sure that eight holes in the
bottom of the saw line up with eight holes in

the top of the cabinet.

2. Fasten the saw to the cabinet with eight
truss head bolts. Put a lockwasher and hex

nut on each bolt and tighten using a 7/16 inch
wrench or socket. (Figure 69)

Truss Head Bolt

!

saw | [[ °

kockwasher-_

/f-t_" ° o i°

Hex Nut _"

12. If there is a 1/16 inch gap or less between

the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke
(and they are not touching), go to step 14, or

If the bevel lock touches the left side of the

yoke, unlock the bevel lock and tighten the

locknut on the motorpivot support. Then go
to step 10 and repeat, or

If there is more than a 1/16 inch gap between
the bevel lock and the left side of the yoke, un-

lock the bevel lock and loosen the locknut on
the motorpivot support. Then go to step 10

and repeat.

13. Repeat steps 10-11 until the bevel lock

will not touch the left side of the yoke, and

the gap is not more than 1/16 inch.

F/ft. 69

3. Check all the nuts holding the cabinet
together and tighten them using a 7/16 inch

wrench or socket.

Attaching Trim Caps

Both Models

1. Find the left and right trim caps.

2. There are two plastic stubs on the back of
each trim cap.

3. These stubs will snap into matching holes at
the front corner of each saw.

4. Snap the left and right trim caps into place.

26

Fig. 70

Trim Cap

Mounting Small Table Rails

Both Models

The following parts are used to mount the
small table rails:

A.

B.
C.

D.
E.

Small Table Rail .................. 2

Locking Handle .................. 2

1/4-20x1-1/8 Bolts ................. 4

1/4 Lockwashers .................. 4

1/4-20 Hex Nuts .................. 4

Fig. 7"2

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 on the other side of the
saw.

Mounting Large Table Rails

Both Models
The following parts are used to mount the

large table rails:

A. Large Table Rail .................. 2

B. Pan Head Screws 1/4x5/8 .......... 4

C. Front Table (44"x17") ............. 1

Fig. 73

J

_J If

z.J " j$S:

fj. - . ;S] O3j

2J_J_C

A

B

D E

Fig. 71

1. Place black plastic locking handle through

one of the rectangular shaped holes in the
front of the saw.

2. Attach small table rail to handle with two
1/4-20x1-1/8 bolts, washers, and nuts. Open

side of channel faces down.

1. Turn the front table (44"x17") upside down.

The top of the front table has five large holes
and nine smaller ones. This side should be to-

ward the flOOL

2. Place the two large table rails on the front
table as shown. The flat side of the rail should

be against the table and the "L" bracket points
up. Fasten in place with two 1/4 x 5/8'_anhead
screws but do not tighten yet.

Fig. 74

27

Mounting the Front Table

Both ModeLs
The following parts are used to mount the

front table:

A.

B.
C.
D.
E.
E
G.
H.

Tee Nuts ......................... 3

U-Clips, 1/4-20 ................... 5

Mounting Screws, 1/4-20xl-3/4 ..... 5

Rubber Grommets ................ 5

Hex Nuts, 1/4-20 ................. 2

Washers, 17/64-5/8xl/32 ........... 5

Bolt, 1/4-20xl .................... 4

Washer, 1/4 ...................... 4

A

1

B

E

1

F

Fig. 75- Parts for Mounting Table

1. Place a tee nut over each of the leveling
holes and hammer them into place.

(Figure 76)

Mounting Holes

Leveling Holes

/

Mounting

Hole

Leveling Hole

Mounting ",_

Holes

Front Table - Upside Down

Fig. 76- Leveling and Mounting Holes

2. Slide four U-clips over the holes in the saw
as shown. (Figure 77)

U-Clip On

_l_ _ Center Channel

Fig. 77

3. Slide one U-clip over the hole in the left
side of the center channel as shown.

(Figure 77)

4. Put a washer on each of the mounting

screws. (Figure 78)

Fig. 78 - Mounting Screw and Washer

5. Stand the front table on one edge.

6. Put a mounting screw through each of the
mounting holes. Then put a rubber grommet
on the bottom of each mounting screw.
(Figure 79)

Table Rail

_._,._ Ta,ble

Rubber

Grommet

Mounting Holes

X ........Mounting

XMounting _ Hole _J

Front Table On Front Edge

Fig 79

28

7. Place the front table on the saw so that the
mounting screws line up with the U-clips.

The front table should extend about one inch
beyond the trim caps.

8. Start the mounting screws into the U-clips
using a Phillips screwdriver. Tighten the

screws until the heads are just touching the
table. Make sure that the table is not squeez-

ing the rubber grommets.

9. Start the leveling screws into the leveling
holes using a 1/8 inch Hex-L wrench.
Tighten the screws until they are flush with

the table.

10. Push the large rail (previously fastened to

bottom of table) towards the front of the saw

and fasten the "'L'" bracket to the back of the

saw with a 1/4-20xl bolt, flat washer, and nut.

11. Tighten the 5/8 inch longpan headscrew
that was used to fasten the large rail to the
bottom of the table top.

12. Repeat steps 10 & 11 on the other side of

the saw.

Assembling Table Lock
Mechanism

Both Models

1. The steel spacer has a smaller end that fits

into the large hole on the pivot arm/cam.
Snap the spacer in place.

I

I
I

@

Fig. 81

2. Drop pivot arm/cam in slot in large rail and
turn until the round "'nose" of cam faces the

front of the saw and the pivot arm is in the

rear.

Front of Saw

Round Nose

Fig. 82

The following parts are used to assemble the
table lock mechanism:

A°

B.
C.
D.
E.
E
G.
H.

Pivot Arm/Cam .................. 2

Steel Spacer ...................... 2

Screw, 1/4-20x1-1/8 ............... 2

Screws 1/4-2_5/8 ................ 2

Washers, 1/4 ..................... 4

Hex Nut, 1/4-20 .................. 2

Square Locknut, 1/4-20 ............. 2

Lockwashers 1/4 .................. 2

3. Place a 114 washer on a 1/4-20x1-1/8 bolt.

Place bolt through pivot arm/cam and large table

rail. Place a second washer on bolt 1/4
lockwasher then a hex nut and tighten in place.

4. Attach the smal! hole in the back of the pivot
arm to the stepped insert on the small table rail.
Use a 1/4-20x518 bolt and a square lock nut.

B

A E

C D

F G H

Fig. 80- Parts for Assembling Table Lock Mechanism Fig. 83 - Completed Assembly

29

Putting Drawers in Place

Model 113.197610

1. Slide each drawer in place on the slide

brackets and push them all the way in.

2. Then pull each drawer out as far it will go.
The drawers should not come all the way out.

3. If any of the drawers do come all the way
out, use a screwdriver to bend out the stop

tabs on the slide brackets. (Figure 84)

Center Slide Outer Bracket

! 1

/ \ 1

Stop Tab Stop Tab Stop Tab

4. Try the drawer again.

5. Repeat until none of the drawers fall out.

Removing Drawers

Model 113.197610

If you need to remove a drawer for any
reason, do the following:

1. Use a screwdriver to push in one of the

stop tabs on the right slide bracket. Pull the

drawer out slightly as you do this.

2. Repeat with the left slide bracket and pull
the drawer all the way out.

\

Rear Stop

Fig. 84 - Stop Tabs

3O

Location and Function of Controls

113.197610

Fig. 85 - Radial Saw Controls

On/Off Switch

The or_"off switch turns the power to the saw

on and off.

To turn the saw on, put the yellow key into
the red rwitch and then pull the switch to the
right. To turn the saw off, push the red switch

to the left. Remove the yellow k_3' from the
red switch whenever the saw is turned off, and
keep it out of the reach and sight of children.

(Figure 86)

Fig. 86 - On!Oft Switch

31

113.197410

A WARNING: The saw can start ac-

cidentally or be used by children and
others when the yellow key is left in the

red switch. Always remove the yellow
key when the saw is off, and keep it out

of the reach and sight of children.

AUL WARNING" The saw will start im-

mediately when the power comes back
on after a blackout if the red switch is

left on. Always turn the switch off and
remove the yellow key when the power
goes off for any reason.

Miter Lock

The miter lock is used to hold the radial arm
at various angles to the fence.

To unlock the miter lock, pull the lock to the

right. (Figure 87)

Bevel Lock

The bevel lock is used to hold the blade at
various angles to the table. To unlock the

bevel lock, move the lock to the right. Always
hold the motor when you unlock the bevel

lock. (Figure 89)

_i, CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured by the arbor shaft or blade.

Hold the motor when you unlock the
bevel lock.

Fig. 87 - Miter Lock - Unlocked

To lock the miter lock, push the lock to the
left. (Figure 88)

To lock the bevel lock, move the lock to the

left. (Figure 90)

Fig. 88 - Miter Lock - Locked

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45 °,
0°, and -45 °. You will feel the radial arm

snap into position at these miter angles. To
unlock the arm when it is in one of these posi-
tions, pull the miter lock all the way to the
right and move the arm as you hold the lock

in this position.

Fig. 90 - Bevel Lock - Locked

32

There are five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,

-45 °, 0°, 45 °, and 90 °. To unlock the bevel
lock when the blade is at one of these angles,

move the bevel lock all the way to the right
and turn the motor while holding the lock in

this position.

Swivel Lock

The swivel lock is used to hold the blade in
the crosscut, in-rip, or out-rip positions, and

to position the blade for molding or edging.
To unlock the swivel lock, stand facing the
saw handle and pull the swivel lock toward
you. (Figure 91)

= ilii

Fig. 91 - Swivel Lock .-Unlocked

To lock the swivel lock, stand facing the saw
handle and push the swivel lock away from

you. (Figure 92)

Fig. 92 - Swivel Lock - Locked

The crosscut, in-rip, and out-rip positions of
the blade are pre-set positions. To unlock the

swivel lock when the motor is in one of these

positions, stand facing the saw handle, pull
the swivel lock all the way toward you, and

turn the motor as you hold the lock in this

position.

Rip Lock

The rip lock is used to hold the motor and

blade at a fixed position along the radial arm.
It is used during ripping to hold the blade a

desired distance from the fence while the

workpiece is fed through. It is used before

and after each crosscut to keep the blade
from moving forward on its own.

To unlock the rip lock, pull the handle toward

the front of the arm. (Figure 93)

Fig. 93 - Rip Lock - Unlocked

To lock the rip lock, push the handle toward

the rear of the arm. (Figure 94)

Fig. 94 - Rip Lock - Locked

33

Handwheel

The handwheel controls the height of the
radial arm.

To raise the radial arm, turn the handwheel

clockwise. To lower the radial arm, turn the

handwheel counterclockwise. (Figure 95)

Fig. 95 - Handwheel

One complete turn of the handwheel moves
the arm 1/16 inch.

The handle can be folded in by squeezing the
redplastic "'ears" with your thumb and index

finger while pushing the handle in.

All Controls

Always lock the miter, swivel and bevel locks
before making a cut on your radial arm saw.
When ripping, the rip lock must also be lock-
ed. When crosscutting, the rip lock should be

locked before and after each cut, when the
saw is in the rearmost position.

34

Alignment of the Blade

"L

ALIGNMENT OF THE BLADE IS THE

MOST IMPORTANT STEP IN

ASSEMBLING YOUR RADIAL ARM SAW.

The blade of your radial arm saw must be

aligned properly for two reasons: to make
cuts accurate, and to prevent binding of the

blade and workpiece which can cause jams or
thrown work-pieces.

These adjustments must be done in order,

before using your saw for the first time. If
they are not done in order the saw will not

cut accurately. If you miss an adjustment, you
must go back to the adjustment you missed

and repeat all steps from that point on.

These adjustments are like fine tuning a
piece of equipment. Often a series of steps

must be repeated more than once in order to
get the adjustment just right.

1. Use a 3/16" hex "L" wrench to loosen the

four screws in the front of the column sup-

port. (Figure 96)

Four Socket

Head Screws

Fig. 96

2. Raise and lower the radial arm by turning

the handwheel a few turns in each direction.
It should take about the same amount of ef-

fort to lower the arm as to raise it.

A'L _

JLWARNINr_: Plugging the saw in

during alignment can result in electrical
shock or your fingers, hand, or arm

being cut off from blade contact. Do not
plug in the saw at any time during align-
ment. The saw should only be plugged

in when it is to be used.

3. If movement seems smooth and the col-
umn does not rock back and forth, use a

3/16 allen wrench to retighten the four
screws in the front of the column support.

(Figure 96). Do not over tighten or it will be
difficult to raise and lower the radial arm.

After completing these steps go on to the
next section, or

Make sure that the blade and blade guard are
removed from the arbor shaft before begin-

ning to align your saw. Do not install the
blade or blade guard until you are instructed

to do so.

Adjusting Elevation

The goal of this adjustment is to make up-

ward and downward movement of the radial

arm smooth and firm. If the column that sup-
ports the arm is too tight it will be difficult to

move the arm up and down and to get ac-
curate depth of cut. If the column is loose the

blade may "walk" on the workpiece and stall

the motor, or cause a bee! in bevel and com-

pound cuts.

35

If movement seems difficult, loosen the four
bolts in the back of the column slightly (Fig-
ure 97) and go back to step 2, or

If column rocks back and forth, tighten the

four bolts in the back of the column slightly
(Figure 97) and go back to step 2.

Leveling Front Table.

The goal of this adjustment is to make the

front work table flat and parallel to the radial
arm. In order to do this, you will choose four

points on the table. When these four points
are level, the entire table should be level.
You will use two methods to make the four

points level:

•Tighten the mounting screws which pull
down on the table making a given point

lower. (Figure 98)

2. Raise the radial arm until the bottom of

the motor is about 2-1/2 inches above the

front table.

3. Unlock the bevel lock to release the motor
Hold onto the motor as you do this.

_1_ CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut

or injured if the arbor shaft hits you.

Hold the motor when you unlock the
bevel lock.

4. Turn the motor until the arbor shaft is

pointing straight down toward the table.
(Figure 99)

•Tighten the leveling screws which push
up on the table making a given point

higher. (Figure 98)

°l_' 5 Mounting o o _le

Screws '_

I) Leveling Screws

o

Fig. 98

1. Loosen the three levering screws and be
sure that the five mounting screws are snug

but not overtightened.

Fig. 99

5. Lock the bevel lock to hold the motor in
this position.

6. Draw two lines on the front table, over the

table rails. (Figure 99)

7. Unlock the rip lock and pull the motor out
to the end of the arm.

36

8. Unlock the miter lock and swing the arm to
the right until the arborshaft is over the right

line at the front of the table.

9. Mark the point on the line under the cen-
ter of the arbor shaft.

10. Move the arm and motor until the arbor

shaft is over the right line at the rear of the

front table.

11. Mark the point on the line under the cen-

ter of the arbor shaft.

12. Repeat steps 7-11 on the left side.

13. Label the points A, B, C, and D.

14. Move the arbor shaft over these points

again, and measure the distance between the

table and the bottom of the arbor shaft at

each. Do not change the elevation of the arm
as you move from point to point.

15. Determine which point has the largest dis-

tance between the table and the arbor shaft.

This is the lowest point.

16. Move the arbor shaft over the lowest

point.

17. Place the handle end of the arbor wrench

over this point and lower the arm until the

arbor shaft is just touching the wrench. The
wrench should slide back and forth with slight

contact. (Figure 100)

18. Move the arbor shaft over another point.

Do not change the elevation of the arm.

19. Tighten the mounting screws and/or level-

ing screws until the handle of the arbor
wrench just fits between this point and the
arbor shaft. The wrench should slide back and

forth with slight contact. Use a 1/8 inch
Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling screws.

20. Repeat steps 18-19 for the last two points.

21. Lay the edge of the rear table across the
front edge of the front table. There should be
no gaps between the two.

22. If you see a gap larger than 1/32 inch,
tighten the center mounting screw and/or the

leveling screws until the gap is gone. Use a 1/8

inch Hex-L wrench to tighten the leveling

screws. (Figure 101)

Fig. 101

23. Repeat steps 21-22 at the rear edge of the

front table.

24. Unlock the bevel lock and return the
motor to its original position with the arbor

shaft parallel to the table. (Figure 102)

Fig. 100

37

J

Fig. 102

Fig. 103

25. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock, swivel lock
and miter lock

Squaring Crosscut Travel

The blade must travel perpendicular to the

fence along the radial arm in order for
crosscuts to be accurate. If the radial arm is

not perpendicular to the fence, there will be a
slight miter angle in all crosscuts.

/k

4Ilk WARNING: Plugging in the saw

during alignment can result in your

fingers, hands, or arm being cut off from

blade contact. Do not plug in the saw at

any time during alignment. The saw
should only be plugged in when it is to be

used.

1. Place the radial arm in the 0 ° miter

position and lock the miter lock.

2. Raise the radial arm about 2 inches above
the front table.

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor
so that the arbor is perpendicular to the table.
(Figure 103)

4. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
until the motor arbor is over the front table.

5. Lock the rip lock, miter lock and bevel

lock.

6. Lower the radial arm until the motor arbor
is slightly above front table.

7. Lay a flaming square on the front table
with the long edge along the back of the table

and the short edge alongside the motor arbor.
(Figure 104)

8. Move the framing square toward the motor
arbor until the arbor and square touch each
other. (Figure 104)

9. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
arbor back and forth along the radial arm as

shown by the arrows. Do not move the
framing square.

10. If the motor arbor just touches the square
at all points, no change is needed. Go to step

14, or

38

If the motor arbor moves away from the

square or tries to "walk" on top of it, go to
step 11. (Figure 104)

11. Find the four screws in front of the
column support (Fig. 105). Use a 3/16 hex "L"

wrench to adjust these screws as described

below.

Socket

Screws

Fig. 105

12. Slightly loosen the bottom two screws.

13. Use the top two screws to move the radial

arm into line:

If the motor arbor moved away from the
square, loosen the top left screw. Then tighten
the top right screw to move the arbor towards
the square. Go to step 14, or

If the motor arbor tried to "walk" on the
square, loosen the top right screw. Then

tighten the top left screw to move the arbor to-
wards the square. Go to step 14.

14. Move the motor back and forth along the

radial arm. Repeat step 13 until the motor

arbor just touches the square at all points.

Then go to step 15.

15. Tighten the bottom screws in the front of
the column support, switching from right to
left several times so that you do not force the
radial arm out of line. Do not overtighten or it

will be difficult to raise and lower the radial

arm.

16. Raise and lower the radialarm. If this is
difficult, loosen the four screws in the front of

the column support slightly and try again.
Loosen all of these screws the same amount so

that you do not force the radial arm out of
line.

17. Repeat step 16 until movement of the
radial arm is smooth but firm. Then go to step

18.

39

18. Lay a framing square on the front table
with the long edge along the back of the table
and the short edge alongside the motor arbor,

as before.

19. Move the framing square toward the
motor arbor until the arbor and square touch.

20. Move the motor arbor back and forth
along the radial arm. Do not move the square.

21. If the motor arbor just touches the edge of
the square at all points, go to step 22, or

If the motor arbor moves away from the edge
of the square or tries to "walk" on top of it,
go back to step 13 and repeat.

22. Lock the rip lock, put the spacer, fence
and rear table back in place, lock the table

clamp, and go to the next section.

Squaring Blade to Table for

Crosscutting

These steps are necessary so that your blade
will be perpendicular to the table and cuts

will be accurate. If this is not done correctly,
your cuts will have a slight bevel angle.

1. Place the radial arm in the 0 ° miter

position and lock the miter lock.

2. Place the blade on the arbor shaft with a
blade collar on each side. Make sure that the

directional arrow is on the outside of the

blade, and the teeth are pointing down at the
front side of the blade. (Figure 106)

Fig. 106

3. Place the arbor nut on the arbor shaft and
use the arbor wrenches to tighten. The arbor

shaft has left-handed threads, so you will have

to turn the nut counterclockwise to tighten.
Do not overtighten.

_1_ CAUTION: Overtightening the arbor

nuts may cause the blade collars to warp
and the blade to wobble while cutting.

Use the arbor wrenches to tighten the
arbor nuts but do not overtighten.

4. Lock the table clamps and rip lock.

5. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the

blade. Make sure that the square is against the
blade surface and not the set of a tooth.

4O

Square

9. Loosen the four screws behind the yoke
using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench. (Figure 109)

Fig. 107

6. Turn the blade with your hand several times
and check to see if the square is flush with the

blade.

7. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure

108) Go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade after any rotation (Figure 108), go to
step 8. Note: Saw blades are manufactured to
different specifications. Therefore a small gap
is permissible on some brands.

Right

Square ! l'_--J

I r l

Table

Wrong

Square

Table

Wrong

I Square [_

Table

Fig. 108

8. Unlock the bevel lock, but do not pull the
index pin.

Fig. 109

_. 4 Socket

_Setscrews

10. Hold the square in place and move the

motor slowly until the square is flush with the
blade.

11. Hold the saw handle tightly and lock the

swivel lock.

12. Check the square to make sure it is still
flush with the blade.

13. Tighten the four screws under the yoke
using a 1/8 inch hex-L wrench.

14. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above the
arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the
edge of the square is on the blade and not on

the set of a tooth.

15. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

16. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

41

Squaring Blade to Fence

These steps are done so that your blade will
be perpendicular to the fence. This will help

reduce the risk of kickback when ripping, and

splintering of the workpiece and burning of
the kerr when ripping and crosscutting.

Fig. 110- Squaring Blade to Fence

1. Put the radial arm in the 0 ° miter position
with the blade just in front of the fence.
(Figure 110)

2. Lock the rip lock.

3. Place the framing square with the long
edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above the
arbor shaft. Make sure that the edge of the
square is on the blade and not on the set of a
tooth. (Figure 110)

I ,

I

I

I

Fence

l

Square

Right

Fence

'1 I

Square _ I

Wrong

Fence

I

Square 1_

Wrong

Fig. 111

6. Unlock the swivel lock.

7. Loosen the four screws under the yoke

using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench and pliers if

necessary. (Figure 112)

WARNING: The hex-L wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in
the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-
gles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.

4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation, no change is needed. (Figure

111) Go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation, go to step 6. (Figure

111)

Fig. 112

/

42

8. Hold the square in place and turn the

motor until the square is flush with the blade.

9. Hold the saw handle tightly and lock the

swivel lock.

10. Check the square to make sure it is still

flush with the blade.

11. Tighten the four screws under the yoke

using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench.

12. Place the framing square with the long

edge against both the fence and the table, and
the short edge against the blade just above

the arbor shaft, as before. Make sure that the
edge of the square is on the blade and not on

the set of a tooth.

13. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

14. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the

blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

/

/

/

/

(-

Fig.!13 - Out-rip Position

\

2. Lock swivel lock and rip lock.

3. Place the long edge of the framing square

on the table and the short edge against the
blade alongside the arborshaft. Make sure the
square is against the surface of the blade and
not on the set of a tooth. (Figure 114)

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping

1. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor
to the out-rip position with the motor between

the blade and fence. (Figure 113)

f

i

Fig. 1!4

\ \

43

4. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush
with the blade.

5. If the square is flush with the b/ade after
each rotation(Figure115) go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the
b/ade after any rotation (Figure 115), go to

step 6.

_ I Right

Table Fence

Wrong _ Wrong

Table Fence Tabte

Fence

Fig. 115

6. Loosen the hex nut on the rear carriage
bearing. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to hold the

bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen the nut.
(Figure 116)

Fig. 116

7. Hold the square in place and use the 9/16
inch wrench to turn the bolt until the square

is flush with the blade.

8. Hold the bolt firmly, and retighten the hex
nut using a 1/2 inch wrench.

9. Turn the blade several times and check to
see if the square is still flush with the blade.

10. If the square is flush with the blade after

each rotation, go to step 11, or

If there is a gap between the square and the
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

11. Unlock the dp lock and move the motor
as far back as it will go.

12. Pinch the front carriage bearing with
your fingers as tightly as possible while you
pull the motor forward with the other hand.

Try to keep the carriage bearing from turning.
(Figure 117)

Fig. 117

13. Move the motor as far forward as it will

go.

14. Pinch the rear carriage bearing with your

fingers as tightly as possible while you pull
the motor toward the rear with the other

hand. Try to keep the carriage bearing from
turning.

44

15. If you can keep either of the carriage bear-

ings from turning while the motor moves

along the radial arm, go to step 16, or

If you cannot keep the carriage bearings from
turning while the motor moves, go to step 22.

16. Wipe the V-shaped groove in each car-

riage bearing, and the track they ride on, with

a cloth to remove sawdust and other debris.
Oil if necessary.

17. Loosen the hex nut on the carriage bear-

ing that was loose. Use a 9/16 inch wrench to

hold the bolt and a 1/2 inch wrench to loosen
the nut.

18. Turn the bolt using a 9/16 inch wrench

until the looseness is gone.

19. Hold the bolt firmly wqth the 9/16 inch
wrench and tighten the hex nut using a 1/2
inch wrench. Do not overtighten.

20. Adjust the other carriage bearing by the
same amount so that the blade will still be

square with the table.

21. Repeat steps 11-15 to make sure that the
carriage bearings are not still loose.

22. Place the long edge of the framing square
on the table and the short edge against the

blade just above the arbor shaft, as before.

Make sure the square is against the surface of

the blade and not on the set of a tooth.

23. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

24. If the square is flush with the blade, go to
the next section, or

If there is a gap between the square and the
blade, go back to step 6 and repeat.

Making Blade Parallel to

Table

These steps are done to help prevent the
workpiece from being thrown or damaged

when the saw is used for edging.

I

Fig. 119

1. Put the radial arm in the 0° miter position.

2. Raise the radial arm until the blade is 1-1/2
inches above the front table.

3. Unlock the bevel lock, and turn the motor
so that the blade is parallel to the table.

(Figure 119)

CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock,

4. Lock the bevel lock, rip lock and swivel lock.

45

5. Place the corner of the flaming square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air. Make sure that the
long edge is perpendicular to the fence.

(Figure 120)

/' / /

Saw Handle '_1

- ---- _ Framing Square _ - -

Fig. 120

6. Lower the radial arm until the blade just
rests on the edge of the franfing square.

Make sure that the square is on the blade

and not on the set of a tooth.

7. Turn the blade with your hand several
times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

8. If the square is flush with the blade after
each rotation (Figure 121) go to step 18, or

If there is a gap between the square and the
blade after any rotation (Figure 121) go to
step 9.

Right

Square 'x_ _4otor

Fenc_ I l,

Table

Square

Wrong Wrong

Square

Motor"N --- Motor

.__' "F: n__ ___'-_1 J

Table Table

Fig. 121

9. Unlock the bevel lock.

10. Loosen the two screws on the back of the

motor support using a 3/16 inch hex-L wrench
and pliers if necessary. (Figure 122)

_lb WARNING: The hex-L wrench may

break when used with pliers to loosen
screws. Thrown pieces could hit you in

the face and/or eyes. Wear safety gog-
gles when using a hex-L wrench with
pliers.

Saw
Handle

Motor Support

Fig. 122

46

11. Hold the square in place, and lift or lower

the bottom side of the motor support until the
square is flush with the blade.

12. Hold the motor firmly and lock the bevel

lock.

WARNING: Kickback can occur if

the spreader is not in line with the
blade. You can be injured or killed. Al-

ways adjust the spreader and make sure
that it is directly in line with the blade.

13. Check the square to make sure that it is
still flush with the blade.

14. Tighten the two screws on the back of the

motor support.

15. Place the corner of the flaming square
against the fence so that the long edge is on
the table under the blade and the short edge
is sticking up in the air, as before. Make sure
that the long edge is perpendicular to the

fence.

16. Turn the blade with your hand several

times and check to see if the square is flush

with the blade.

17. If there is a gap between the square and
the blade, go back to step 9 and repeat.

Installing Guard / Setting

Spreader

The blade guard and the spreader are very
important safety features of your saw. The
guard covers a large part of the blade and
reduces the risk of amputation. The spreader

rides in the kerf of the cut wood during rip-
ping, and helps keep the two sides from

pinching the blade and causing a kickback.

/k _

JLWARNING: Fingers, hand, or arm

can be cut off from blade contact if the
blade guard is not used properly. Al-

ways put the blade guard on your saw
and adjust it correctly.

1. Loosen the guard clamp screw until it no

longer touches the metalplate. (Figure 123)

Guard Clamp Screw

Fig. !23

Metal Plate

2. Place the guard _ver the blade. You will
feel the guard fall into place when the ridge on
the inside of the guard slides into the slot on
the motor. (Figure 124)

Fig. !24

3. Make sure that the lower edge of the guard
is parallel to the table. (Figure 124 - above)

47

4. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

5. Unlock the swivel lock and turn the motor
to the in-rip position, with the blade between

the motor and the fence. (Figure 125)

Fig. 125 - In-rip Position

Guard

I

Antikickback Pawl=

Fig. 126

Fence

)reader

Table

/

6. Lock the swivel lock.

7. Lower the radial arm until the blade is just
above the table.

8. Unlock the rip lock and move the motor
back until the blade touches the fence.

9. Lock the rip lock.

10. Loosen the wing screw that holds the

spreader in place.

11. Lower the spreader and antikickback

pawls until the spreader is against the fence,

and thepawls on one side of the spreader are
on top of the fence. (Figure 126)

12. If the spreader and blade both rest against
the fence, no adjustment is needed. (Figure
127-A) Go to step 17, or

If the spreader is in front of the fence but not
touching it (Figure 127-B), go to step 13, or

If the spreader hits the top of the fence
(Figure 127-C), go to step 13.

48

A - Right

Pawl-_-_ _

Fence----_

Table',

Spreader

%.

Saw Blade

B - Wrong

Pawl

Fence ----_

]

i -Spreader

31_--+-

Saw Blade

Fig. 127 -A,B,C

Fence

Table

C - Wrong

_reader

Saw Blade

13. Loosen both nuts on the spreader using a

1/2 inch wrench.

14. Slide the spreader with your hand until it
is against the fence directly behind the blade.

15. Tighten both nuts using a 1/2 inch

wrench. Do not move the spreader as you

tighten these nuts.

16. Check the blade and spreader again to

make sure that they are both against the

fence. If not, go back to step 13 and repeat.

17. Once the blade and spreader are in line,
raise the spreader up to the guard and tighten
the wing screw to hold it in place.

18. Unlock the Hp lock.

19. Pull the motor forward so that the blade is
away from the fence and lock the rip lock

20. Unlock the swivel lock.

21. Turn the motor to the crosscut positon
with the blade and arm perpendicular to the

fence.

22. Lock the swivel lock.

49

Digital Display

/ CRRFTSMRN

ELECTRONIC MEASUREMENT

/J [ J_j

TO LOCK REMOVE YELLOW KEY

Fig. 128 - Digital Display

Your radial arm saw has a digital display
which tells you the position of the blade and
arm at the touch of a button. This display
helps you position the blade so that your cuts

will be accurate.

The following buttons control the digital dis-
play:

ON/OFF : This button turns the display on
and off. The display runs on battery power,

and shuts itself off when no changes in blade
or arm position have been made for three
minutes. The system continues to track the

location of the blade and arm when the dis-
play is turned off, and the current position

may be displayed at any time.

REF SET: This button is used to set the "0"
reference points for the digital display.

BEVEL : This button displays the bevel
angle. The "0" display is usually set with the

blade perpendicular to the table. A positive

display shows the angle the blade has been

turned counterclockwise. A negative display
shows the angle the blade has been turned
clockwise.

ELEV: This button displays the height of the
blade. The "0" display is usually set with the
blade just touching the table. A positive dis-

play shows the distance the blade has been
raised above "0". A negative display shows the

distance the blade has been lowered below

tlO_t"

MITER: This button displays the miter angle.
The "0" display is usually set with the arm per-
pendicular to the fence. A positive display

shows the angle the arm has been moved to
the right. A negative display shows the angle

the arm has been moved to the left.

RIP: This button displays the distance from
the fence to the blade in the in-rip and out-
rip positions. The "0" display for in-rip is

usually set with the blade just touching the
fence. The "10.00" display for out-rip is usual-

ly set with the blade ten inches from the
fence.

The "0" reference points you set will be

stored in the memory at all times, whether
the display is turned on or off. If an error oc-
curs you will see:

[

on the display. If this happens, you will need
to reset the "0" reference point for the func-

tion displaying the error.

If the battery is very weak or dead the display
will become faded and hard to read. If this

happens, you will need to replace the battery
and reset the "0" reference points for all func-

tions.

5O

Installing the Battery

1. Slide the battery into the opening behind
the digital display with the angled corner on
top. (Figure 130)

5. If there is still no display, contact your
nearest Sears store, or

If the display says:

ELE

Battery

Fig. 129- Installing the .qattery

2. Push the battery all the way into this space

and slightly downward. It will snap into place,
and be held there by a tab.

3. If the display says:

ELE

a second or two after the batteq is put in
place, go to step 6, or

If the display does not show anything, go to
step 4.

4. Remove the battery. Put it back in and
check the display again, or

Remove the battery. Wipe off the battery con-
tacts. Put the battery back in and check the

display again, or

Remove the battery. Replace it with a new
one. Check the display again.

go to step 6.

6. Snap the battery cover into place.

7. Push the ON/OFF button to turn off the dis-

play.

Replacing the Battery

1. Use a screwdriver to pry the battery cover

off.

2. Push in and slightly upward on the battery,
then pull out. The battery is held in place by a
tab that is released when you push in.

3. Replace the battery with a 6V, alkaline bat-
tery by following the Installing the Battery

section.

Aligning Encoders

Miter Encoder

1. Push the ON/OFF button to turn the dis-

play on.

2. Put the saw in the crosscut position with
the radial arm perpendicular to the fence.

3. Lock the miter lock.

4. Push the MITER button.

5. Push the REF SETbutton. The display will
say:

I °!

MIT • _._,_

51

6. Unlock the miter lock.

7. Move the arm to the right until it snaps
into the 45 ° position.

8. Lock the miter lock.

9. The display should say:

I " s01

10. Unlock the miter lock.

11. Move the arm to the left until it snaps

into the -45°position.

12. Lock the miter lock.

13. The display should say:

I.,-,o°!

14. If the display is correct at all three points,

go to the next section, or

If the display is not correct at one or more of
these points, go to step 15.

15. Unscrew the two mounting screws on the

back of the arm and take off the rear arm

cover.

16. Unlock the miter lock.

17. Move the arm to the right until it snaps
into the 45 ° miter position.

18. Lock the miter lock.

19. Loosen the mounting screws on the miter

encoder until the encoder will slide to the right

and left. (Figure 130)

\

Fig. 130 - Screws for Miter Encoder

20. Slide the encoder slightly until the digital
display says:

I

MIT

You may need to tap on the encoder to move
it, but do not force it or hit it hard.

21. Tighten the mounting screws on the en-

coder.

22. Repeat steps 2-13 to make sure you did
not move the encoder when tightening the
mounting screws.

23. If the display is still not correct repeat

steps 16 - 22 until the miter encoder is in (he
right position, or

If the display is correct, put the rear arm
cover back on the radial arm. Go to the next

section.

52

Bevel Encoder

1. Push the ON/OFF button to turn the dis-

play on.

2. Put the saw in the crosscut position with
the radial arm perpendicular to the fence and

the blade perpendicular to the table.

3. Lock the bevel lock.

4. Push the BEVEL button.

5. Push the REF SETbutton. The display will
say:

1 °1

BEV • L,_

6. Unlock the bevel lock.

7. Turn the motor to the 45 ° bevel position.

_1_ CAUTION: The motor is heavy and

can swing down quickly. You can be cut
or injured if the blade hits you. Hold the

motor when you unlock the bevel lock.

14. lfthe display is correct at all three points,
go to the next section, or

It"the display is not correct at one or more of
these points, go to step 15.

15. Unlock the bevel lock.

16. Move the motor to the 45° bevel position.

17. Lock the bevel lock.

18. Loosen the two aligning screws on the

bevel encoder until the encoder will slide from
right to left. (Figure 131)

Aligning Screws

Motor Support

Bevel
Encoder

Yoke
Casting

8. Lock the bevel lock.

9. The display should say:

! 1

10. Unlock the bevel lock.

11. Move the motor to the 90 ° bevel position.

12. Lock the bevel lock.

13. The display should say:

1 I

Fig. 131 - Screws for Bevel Encoder

19. Slide the encoder slightly until the display

says:

BEV

You may need to tap on the encoder to move
it, but do not force it or hit it hard.

20. Tighten the two aligning screws on the en-

cod.el'.

21. Repeat steps 2 - 13 to make sure you did
not move the encoder when tightening the

two screws.

53

22. If the display is still not correct, repeat
steps 15 - 21 until the bevel encoder is in the
right position, or

8. Push the ELEVbutton.

9. Push the REF SET button.

If the display is correct, go to the next section.

Setting Zero References

Bevel, Miter and Elevation

10. The display will say:

[

ELE .U U

The "0" reference points for miter, bevel, and

elevation are usually set with the:

• Saw in the crosscut position with the

radial arm perpendicular to the fence

(0° miter).

In-rip Reference

The "0" reference point for in-rip is usually

set with the blade just touching the front of
the fence.

1. Unlock the swivel lock.

.Blade perpendicular to the fence and

front table (0 ° bevel).

2. Turn the motor to the in-rip position with

the blade between the motor and the fence.

3. Lock the swivel lock.

•Blade in front of the fence just touching
the front table (0 inches elevation).

4. Unlock the table locks and put the fence
between the front table and the spacer

You may set the "0" reference points in this
position, or any other position you choose.

1. Put the blade in the position you have
chosen to be the zero reference point.

2. Push the .MITER button.

3. Push the REF SET button.

5. Lock the table locks.

6. Unlock the rip lock.

7. Move the motor back until the blade is just
touching the front of the fence.

8. Lock the rip lock.

9. Push the RIP button.

4. The display will say:

[ '-'1

MIT • _

5. Push the BEVEL button.

10. If the display shows the RIP function, go
to step 11, or

If the display shows the O-RIP function, push
the RIP button again. Then go to step 11.

11. Push the REF SETbutton.

6. Push the REF SETbutton.

12. If the display says:

7. The display will say:

1 I l '-'r'!

I-! .,. .L! L!

BEV • _

54

go to the next section, or

If the display says:

I sn° !

.,p !_!.L!

push the ]_F SET button again, Then go to

the next section.

Out-rip Reference

The "0" reference point for out-rip is usually

set with the blade ten inches from the fence.

1. Unlock the swivel lock.

2. Turn the motor to the out-rip position with
the motor between the blade and the fence.

3. Lock the swivel lock.

4. Unlock the table locks and move the fence
behind the spacer and rear table. (Figure 146)

5. Lock the table locks.

6. Unlock the rip lock.

7. Move the motor until the blade is 10 inches
in front of the fence. Use a framing square,

ruler or tape measure to measure this distance.
(Figure 132)

8. Lock the @ lock.

9. Push the RIP button.

10. If the display shows the O-RIP function,

go to step 11, or

If the display shows the RIP function, push

the RIP button again. Then go to step 11.

11. Push the REF SET button.

12. If the display says:

l '-"-'!

o-.,P .U U

13. Push the REF SET button again.

The display will say:

!

O-RIP

Fence

Blade

Fig. 132 - OukR_ Re_rence

55

iiiiii

Electrical Connections

Motor Specifications

The AC motor used in this saw is a capacitor-

start, non-reversible type having the following
specifications:

Rated H.P ............................. 1.5

Maximum Developed H.P .............. 2.75

Voltage ........................... 120/240

Amperes ............................. 12/6

Hertz (cycles) .......................... 60

Phase .............................. Single

RPM ............................... 3450

Rotation of Arbor Shaft .......... Clockwise

Power Supply

_lb WARNING: Your saw is wired at

the factory for 120V operation. Connect
to a 120V, 15-AMP, branch circuit and

use a 15-AMP, time delay fuse or circuit
breaker. Failure to connect in this way
can result in injury from shock or fire.

If the motor is rewired for 240V opera-

tion, connect to a circuit protected by

15-AMP, dual element time delay fuse or

circuit breaker.

Your saw must be properly grounded. Not all
outlets are properly grounded. If you are not

sure that your outlet is properly grounded,
have it checked by a qualified electrician.

_lb WARNING: If not properly

grounded this power tool can cause
electrical shock, particularly when used

in damp locations.

_I_WARNING: If an electrical shock oc-

curs, your reaction to the shock may
bring your hands into contact with the

blade.

WARNING: To avoid shock or fire, if

power cord is worn, cut, or damaged in
any way have it replaced immediately.

If your unit is for use on less than 120V it has a
plug that looks like below. (Figure 133)

@

3-Prong Plug

Grounding Prong

Properly

Grounded

Outlet

Fig. !33 - Plug for Less Than 150V

This power tool is equipped with a 3-conduc-
tor cord and grounding type plug which has a
grounding prong listed by Underwriters'

Laboratories. The ground conductor has a
green jacket and is attached to the tool hous-

ing at one end and to the ground prong in the
attachment plug at the other end.

This plug requires a mating 3-conductor
grounded type outlet as shown above. If you
have an outlet that is of the two prong type, it

is recommended that you have a qualified
electrician replace the it with a properly
grounded three prong outlet.

56

_1_ WARNING: To maintain proper

tool grounding, whenever the outlet you
are planning to use for this power tool

is of the two prong type do not remove
or alter the grounding prong in any man-

ner.

An adapter is available for connecting plug to
2-prong receptacles. The green grounding lead
extending from the adapter must be connected
to a permanent ground such as to a properly

grounded outlet box. (Figure 134)

Grounding Lug_

/ _===ff Make Sure This Is

3-Prong Plug _jlr-_---'_ Connected To A

KoownGroun,

,.1_, _____I/"_ 2-Prong

T _ Receptacle

Adapter

Extension Cords

The use of any extension cord will cause
some loss of power. Use the following table

to determine the minimum wire size
(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3- wire ex-
tension cords which have 3-prong grounding

type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which ac-
cept the tool's plug.

Length of
Conductor

Wire sizes Required

(American Wire Gage No.)

120V Lines 240V Lines

0 - 25 feet No.14 No. 16

26 - 50 feet No.12 No. 14

, 51 - 100 feet No. 8 No. 12

For circuits that are farther away from electri-
cal circuit box, the wire size must be in-

creased proportionately in order to deliver

ample voltage to the saw motor.

Fig. 134- Adapter for 2-Prong Receptacles

_I= WARNING: The adapter illustrated

is for use only if you already have a
properly grounded 2-prong receptacle.

57

Crosscutting

Crosscutting is used to cut a workpiece to
length. The workpiece is held against the

fence. The saw blade is pulled through the
workpiece. Cuts are usually made across the

grain of the workpiece.

Types of Crosscuts

The basic types of crosscuts are shown below.
Notice the hand and body position in each.

Fig. 135 - Straight Crosscut

Fig. 137- Bevel Crosscut

Fig. 138- Compound Crosscut

Miter

Straight

Fig. 139-Basic Crosscuts

Bevel

Compound

Fig. 136 - Miter Crosscut

58

Safety Information for

Crosscutting

Read and follow the safety information below
before making any type of crosscut.

_lb WARNING

4. Fingers or hand can slip into the saw
blade as you make a crosscut. Fingers,

hand or arm can be cut off. Keep the
hand holding the workpiece at least 8 in-

ches to the side of the workpiece, out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand

holding the workpiece in view at all
times.

1. Set guard and anti-kickback pawls to
proper height to serve as a partial barrier.

2. The saw blade can throw the
workpiece over the fence if the blade is

pushed backwards into workpiece.You
or others can be hit and injured by the

thrown workpiece. Start a crosscut with
the blade in its rearmost position.

3. If the blade is pulled through the

workpiece beyond the middle of the

blade, it can:

• pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the

area, or;

• lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and pull your
hand into the blade as the blade

is returned. Pull the saw blade

through the workpiece to the dis-
tance shown below.

i _+_ : _ i _!¸¸_¸;¸_

f

Fig. 140 - Blade Distance to Complete Crosscut

5. The blade can come completely off
table edge beyond the 30 ° left miter

position. Fingers, hands, arms or legs
can be cut off. Use the right miter posi-

tion whenever possible to make miter

crosscuts.

6. The blade continues to turn for about
12 seconds after the saw is turned

off. Wait for the blade to stop before
reaching for the workpiece.

7. If length stops are used on the cut-off
end of workpiece, the cut-off end can
be thrown by the blade. The workpiece

could hit and injure you or others in the
area. Do not use a length stop on the
cut-off end of the workpiece. Use a
length stop only on the end of the
workpiece which is held down.

8. Holding on to or touching the cut off
end of the workpiece while the saw

blade is still turning can cause the
workpiece to pinch the blade. The
workpiece can be thrown and hit and in-
jure you or others in the area. Do not

touch, hold on to, push, or grab the cut-
off piece of the workpiece while the

power is on or the saw blade is turning.

9. The saw can throw the workpiece,

workpiece chips or pieces of the blade
violently. You can be blinded. Wear

safety goggles.

59

10. The workpiece cannot be controlled
or held stable enough to do free hand

cutting. The workpiece can be thrown or
slip and pull fingers and hand into the
saw blade. Fingers or hand can be cut

off. Set the radial arm to the desired
cutting angle. Keep workpiece flat on

table and solidly against the fence.

Blade Guard, Anti-Kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader are designed to reduce or eliminate
the risk of injury from contact with the upper

half of the blade and the leading edge of the
blade when:

11. Saw parts loosen and wear with
use. You or others can be injured. Keep

all parts tight and in working order.

• the guard is in the horizontal position
and;

12. The fence must be of at least equal
height to the workpiece or else the

workpiece can be lifted or thrown and hit

and injure you or others in the area. See
Cutting Accessories section for instruc-

tions to make a fence.

• the pawls and spreader are set to

clear the top of the fence and

workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

The Blade Guard:

13. The blade will try to pull itself

through the workpiece. Be prepared to

hold the saw handle back to keep the
saw blade from coming toward you.

14. Lock rip lock after every crosscut, or

else the blade will suddenly come
toward you when you lower it to make a

crosscut.

15. Whenever the blade is turning, keep
one hand on the saw handle to keep the

saw blade from coming toward you.

16. Cutting more than one workpiece at
a time can cause you to lose control of

the workpieces, which can be thrown
and hit and injure you or others in the
area. Cut only one workpiece at a time.

Do not stack or lay workpieces edge to
edge.

• provides protection from contact with

the upper half of the blade;

• helps keep the workpiece from jam-
ming in the guard and;

• helps catch or deflect workpiece chips
or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-kickback Bar, Pawls and Spreader:

• serve as a partial barrier to provide
protection from contact with the lead-

ing edge of the blade.

_lb WARNING: To reduce the risk of

contact with the upper half of the blade
and keep the workpiece from jamming in

the guard, set the blade guard in the

horizontal position, Fig. 144.

6O

Crosscutting Checklist

Use the following checklist at the beginning
of each new cutting period to reduce the risk

of an accident.

to sid

Arbor inut snug.

Blade _.

•,ar and table level side

Fence secure, solid (knot free) and in good

condition.

Workpiece does not extend above the top
of the fence.

All saw parts are tight and working.

Read and follow instructions for the type

of crosscut you want to do.

Cutting Table and Fence

Kerfs

You will need to cut a new table kerf (shal-
low cut) and fence kerf (slot left in the fence
from sawing through it with the blade), each
time a new cutting angle is used. The table

kerr lets the blade cut all the way through a
workpiece.

Fig. 141- Table and Fence Kerfs

Note: To extend the life of your table top,
you can make an additional table top. See

Helpful Hints section.

Making Table and Fence Kerfs for Crosscut-

ting

To make a crosscut kerr in your table and

fence:

1. Put your fence between the front table and

spacer board. Lock the table locks.

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-
hind the fence.

3. Lock rip lock.

61

/5,

A WARNING: The saw blade will sud-

denly come toward you when lowered
into the table if the rip lock is unlocked.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Lock

the rip lock before and after each

crosscut.

8. Grasp saw handle and hold your forearm
in line with the saw handle as shown below.

n I

Fig. 144 - Crosscut Blade Guard and Body Position

Fig. 142- Locked Position for Rip Lock

4. Lower the radial arm until the blade al-
most touches the table top.

5. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet. Check
Electrical Connections section of manual if

you are not sure the outlet is grounded.

6. Wear safety goggles labeled ANSI Z87.1
on the package.

_1_ WARNING: The saw can throw the

workpiece, workpiece chips or pieces of
the blade violently. You can be

blinded. Wear safety goggles.

can be blinded.

Wear safety

goggles.

Fig. 143 - Safety Goggles Safety Sign

7. Insert yell_w key into the red switch.

a'X

AI& WARNING: Saw blade can sudden-

ly come toward you when turned on.
Fingers, hand or arm can be cut off.

Keep one hand on the saw handle at all

times.

62

9. Turn the saw on.

10. Lower the saw arm slowly until the blade

touches the table.

11. Turn the handwheel another 1/2 turn

more. This will let you make a 1/32 to 1/16
inch kerr in the table.

12. Unlock rip lock.

13. Pull the saw blade forward through the

fence and along the table as far as it will go.

14. Return the saw blade to its rearmost posi-

tion behind the fence.

15. Turn the saw off, but do not let go of the

saw handle.

16. Wait for blade to stop turning.

17. Lock rip h)ck.

18. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Making Crosscuts

The following section contains safety informa-
tion and instructions for making crosscuts.

Anyone who uses your saw should read and
follow these steps.

_' WARNING: The blade guard must be

horizontal to provide protection from
contact with the upper half of the blade

and avoid the workpiece being jammed in
the blade. Set the blade guard in the

horizontal position. Fig. 144.

_' DANGER: The anti-kickback pawls

serve as a barrier for the leading edge
or the blade. Set the anti-kickback

pawls to clear the top of the fence and
workpiece by about 1/8 inch.

A WARNING: The fence must be at

least equal height or higher than the

workpiece you are going to cut or else
the workpiece can be thrown and injure

yOU or others in the area. Install a fence
of at least equal height to the workpiece.

1. Put your fence in position A as shown and

lock the table locks.

I

I

Fig. 145- Fence Position for Crosscut

2. Push the saw to the rearmost position, be-
hind the fence.

4. Adjust the height of the anti-kickback
pawls to clear top of fence and workpiece by

about 1/8 inch. The pawls and spreader help
provide protection from the leading edge of

blade.

5. Plug saw into grounded outlet.

6. Put on safety goggles.

7. Place the work_iece against the fence.

8. Unlock rip lock.

9. Grasp the saw handle while holding your
forearm in a straight line with the saw handle.

£k _

I_WARNIN(3: The saw blade tries to

pull itself through the workpiece. Be
prepared to hold saw handle back to
keep the saw blade from coming toward

you. Keep one hand on the saw handle
at all times.

WARNING: If the saw blade is pulled

through the workpiece beyond the mid-

dle of the saw blade, it can:

• pick up and throw the cut-off sec-

tion of the workpiece which could

hit and injure you or others in the
area, or;

• lift or move the held-down section

of the workpiece and draw your
hand into the blade as the blade
is returned.

3. Lower the blade into but not touching the
table kerr.

63

Pull the saw blade through the
workpiece to the distance shown below.

Fig. 146- Distance Needed to Complete Crosscut

12. Support and hold the workpiece down
and against the fence firmly with your left
hand.

13. Pull blade through fence and workpiece

just enough to complete the cut. Fig. 146.

14. Return saw to its rearmost position and

continue to hold the saw handle.

15. Turn saw off.

16. Wait for the blade to stop turning.

17. Remove yellow key form red switch.

10. Insert yellow key into red switch.

11. Turn saw on.

WARNING: Saw blade can be

pulled into or over fingers or
hand. Fingers or hand can be cut off.

Keep hand holding the workpiece at
least 8 inches to the left of, and out of

the path of the saw blade. Keep hand in
view at all times.

Repetitive Crosscuts

To make repetitive crosscuts:

1. Use _vo pieces of 1 inch by 2 by 2 inch

lumber.

2. Use a C clamp to clamp one piece on each
side of the lower right edge of the radial arm.

3. Clamp pieces of lumber at the distance
necessary to complete the crosscut.

Fig. !47- Hand Placement for Crosscuts

Fig. 148

64

Ripping

Ripping is used to change the width of the

workpiece by sawing along its length. The

workpiece is fed into the saw blade. The
fence is used as a guide. Rip cuts are usually

made with the grain of the workpiece.

Saw Positions for Ripping

There are two saw blade positions for making

rip cuts: in-rip and out-rip.

In in-rip position, motor is toward the front
of the table, and blade is toward the fence.

Fig. 149 In-Rip Saw Position

In out-rip position, motor is toward fence and
the blade is toward the front of the table.

Fig. 150 Out-Rip Saw Position (Infeed End)

_1_ WARNING: Stand only at infeed end

of saw. Feed workpiece only into infeed
end of saw as shown above.

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece and your

hands than does the out-rip saw position.

The only time you should use the out-rip saw

position is when the workpiece is 14 inches

or wider. Use the in-rip position for all

work_ieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest
part of the workpiece is between the blade

and the fence. For example, if you want to
take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set

the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do

not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-
ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

/k A

&lkWARNINLi: If the blade is set between 2

inches and 6 inches from the fence, hands
will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers and hand can be cut off. Use a push
stick.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from

the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how

to make and use a push stick.

_ WARNING: If the blade is set between

1/2 inch and 2 inches from the fence, hands
will be brought too close to the blade.

Fingers/hand can be cut off. Use an auxiliary

fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches

wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the

workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from

the fence and use a push block and auxiliary

fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

65

Safety Information for

Ripping

Read and follow the safety information below
before making any type of rip cut.

DANGER

1. Kickback can happen when the saw
blade is pinched or bound by the

workpiece. This creates force in the op-

posite direction to which the workpiece
is being fed. The teeth of the blade grab

and throw the workpiece violently back
out of the saw.

Kickback can happen when:

Anti-kickback pawls/spreader are not
used or not correctly adjusted.

Spreader is not in line with the blade.

Blade is not parallel to the rip fence.

Edge of workpiece is not in contact with
the rip fence or not straight.

Workpiece is twisted or warped and rocks
on the table top.

Edge of workpiece is not completely
against the rip fence, leaving gaps

between the fence and workpiece edge.

Workpiece is released before being
pushed completely past the saw blade.

Feeding pressure is put on the section
of the workpiece farthest from the fence.

2. One of the most common and the
most dangerous mistakes people make

is to reach for the workpiece at the out-
feed side of the saw. DON'T ! The

workpiece could kickback as you reach
for, touch or try to pull the workpiece

through the blade. You can lose your
fingers, hand, or arm. The blade guard

does NOT provide complete protection
at outfeed end of the saw. Do not reach

for the workpiece at outfeed end of the

saw. Fingers, hand or arm can be cut
off. Follow instructions for ripping.

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 151 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

3. The workpiece can also kickback
violently toward you during a rip cut.

You can be hit hard enough to cause

broken bones and/or internal injury.
Keep blade guard, anti-kickback pawls
and spreader in place and adjusted.
Apply feed pressure to the section of

the workpiece next to the fence. Do not

apply feed pressure on the section of
the workpiece away from the fence.

Stand out of the path of the workpiece.

Kickback.

Internal injury can

result.

Use anti-kickback

pawls/spreader.

Fig. 152 Kickback, Thrown Workpiece Safety Sign

66

4. Non-thru cuts increase the chance of
kickback because the anti-kickback

pawls cannot always grab the irregular
workpiece surface. Use a featherboard.

See Cutting Accessories section on how
to make and use a featherboard.

5. The workpiece can snag or hang up
on a fence with a kerr in it. The

workpiece can be thrown or pinch the
blade, causing kickback. Use solid fen-

ces when making rip cuts.

2. The workpiece can be grabbed by the
saw blade and take off like a missile.

Anyone standing in the path of the

workpiece can be killed.

I

6. Wood cut with the grain can spring
the kerr closed, bind the blade, and
cause a kickback. Adjust spreader to

ride in the kerf and prevent the kerr

from closing on saw blade.

7. Composition materials, like particle
boards and plastics, may be cut on the

saw. Because these materials often
have a harder and more slippery surface

than wood, the anti-kickback pawls may
not stop a kickback. Place finished side
of workpiece down, roughest side of
workpiece up. Make anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments. Stand out of

the path of workpiece.

Wrong Way Feed.

Workpiece impact

can kill others.

Feed into infeed

end of saw.

Fig. 153 Wrong WayFeed Safety Signs

Always feed the workpiece against the
direction of rotation of the blade, at the
infeed end of the blade.

,_ DANGER: Wrong Way Feed

Wrong way feed is feeding the
workpiece into the end of the blade with

pawls, the ouffeed end. (Fig. 154) There
are two things that can happen if you

feed the workpiece into the outfeed end

of the saw blade:

1. The workpiece can be grabbed by the
blade and pull your hands into the blade
before you can let go or pull back.

Fingers, hands or arms can be cut off.

Infeed End Of utfeed End

Saw Blade

Fig. 154 Infeed and Ouffeed Ends of Saw Blade

A

;ER

67

Blade Guard, Anti-kickback

Pawls and Spreader

The blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and
workpiece spreader are designed to reduce or

eliminate the risk of injury from blade con-

tact, workpiece kickback and wrong way feed.

The Blade Guard:

• serves as a partial barrier to help
keep hands from contacting the blade

at the infeed end of the saw blade.

• helps keep the workpiece from lifting

or fluttering during ripping.

• helps catch or deflect workpiece chips

or pieces of the blade.

The Anti-Kickback Pawls :

• help reduce kickback by grabbing into
and holding the work_iece.

• act as a barrier to provide some

protection from blade contact.

The Spreader:

helps keep the kerf of the workpiece
open, which helps prevent the blade

from being pinched and causing
workpiece kickback.

when correctly set, helps reduce or
eliminate the chance of wrong way
feed because it blocks the workpiece
from contacting the saw blade.

AWARNING: The anti-kickback pawls

and spreader adjustments must be made

each time a different thickness workpiece
is cut to reduce or eliminate kickback.

Rip Cutting ChecMist

Use the following rip cutting checklist at the

beginning of each new cutting period to
reduce the risk of an accident.

to side.

Fence secure, solid (knot free), no kerfs,

Fence in correct rip position.

Saw blade desired distance from the fence

for cut.

Swivel, bevel, rip, miter and table

locks locked.

Blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and

spreader adjusted.

Read and follow instructions for the @_

of rip cut you want to make. :

68

Making a Rip Cut Table Kerf

You will need to make a table kerf before a
rip cut can be made. Every time you move

the blade a new distance from the fence, you
will need to make a new kerf.

1. Put saw in desired rip position and lock the
saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table
locks.

Blade Guard Adjustments

1. Unplug saw and remove yellow key.

2. Put saw in In-Rip position and lock the
saw arm in the 0° position.

3. Adjust saw arm with handwheel until the

saw blade almost touches the table top.

4. Plug the saw into a grounded outlet.

5. Put on safety goggles.

6. Insert the yellow key in the red switch.

7. Turn saw on.

8. Lower saw blade until blade touches the
table.

9. Turn the handwheel about 1 full turn
more. This will make a 1/16 to 1/8 inch kerr

in the table.

_I_WARNING: For workpieces 1/4 inch

thick or less, make the rip kerf at least

1/8 inch deep to keep the saw blade

from rising up on top of workpieces and
violently throwing them.

10. Turn saw off and remove yellow key.

11. Unplug saw at the end of cutting session.

Adjustments for Ripping

4_ DANGER: You will need to make

blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and
spreader adjustments before making a rip
cut.

Fig. 155 In-Rip Saw Posfion

3. Lock rip, miter, bevel, swivel and table
locks.

4. Go to the in-feed end of the saw blade.
Fig. 154.

5. Put the workpiece on the table, in line with
blade and under the nose of blade guard, so

it touches the blade.

6. Loosen the guard clamp screw and rotate

the guard until the guard nose just clears the
workpiece. Fig. 156.

7. Tighten the guard clamp screw.

Anti kickback/Spreader

Wing Screw

Guard Clamp

Screw

:kback

Bar

,ader

-,<---- Direction of Kickback

Fig. 156 Blade Guard Position fcr Rippin 9

69

Anti-kickback Pawls and Spreader Adjust-

ments

1. Go to the outfeed end of the saw blade.

2. Put edge of workpiece beside the blade

and under the pawls.

3. Loosen wing screw and lower the anti-kick-
back pawls and spreader until the spreader
bangs next to the edge of the workpiece and

the pawls, on one side of the spreader, rest
on the workpiece.

Pawl

Fig. 157Anti-kickback Pawl Position

4. Tighten wing screw.

5. Go to the infeed end of the saw blade.

6. Push the workpiece a few inches in the

direction of the cut and then pull the
workpiece back toward you. The pawls

should have grabbed the wood and stopped
the kickback motion by grabbing into the
workpiece. If they did not, repeat adjust-

ments until the pawls grab the workpiece. If
the pawls fail to grab the workpiece, sharpen

or replace them. If that fails to work, use a
featherboard. Repeat steps for making anti-

kickback pawls and spreader adjustments

above.

Making Rip Cuts

When to Use In-Rip or Out-Rip

The in-rip saw position provides better
visibility of both the workpiece and your

bands than does the out-rip saw position. The

only time you should use the out-rip saw posi-
tion is when the workpiece is 14 inches or
wider. Use the in-rip position for all

workpieces less than 14 inches wide.

Workpiece Positioning for Ripping

Always set up the saw blade so the widest

part of the work_iece is between the blade
and the fence. For example, if you want to

take 1 inch off an 11 inch wide workpiece, set
the saw blade 10 inches from the fence. Do

not rip 1 inch off an 11 inch workpiece by set-

ting the saw blade 1 inch from the fence.

A _

AltWARNING: If the blade is set be-

tween 2 inches and 6 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers and hand can be

cut off. Use a push stick.

For example, if the workpiece is 7 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 6 inches from
the fence and use a push stick. Use a push

stick when the distance between the saw
blade and fence is between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches. See Cutting Accessories section on how
to make and use a push stick.

_1_WARNING: If the blade is set be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches from the
fence, hands will be brought too close

to the blade. Fingers/hand can be cut

off. Use an auxiliary fence/push block.

For example, if the workpiece is 3 inches
wide and you want to cut 1 inch off the
workpiece, place the saw blade 2 inches from
the fence and use a push block and auxiliary

fence. See Cutting Accessories section.

70

/x

411kWARNING: When making through

rip cuts do not set the blade closer than
1/2 inch from the fence or auxiliary

fence, your hands will be brought too

close to the blade. Your fingers and
hand can be cut off. Do not use a radial

arm saw to rip cut less than 1/2 inch
wide workpieces.

1. Set the blade to desired distance from the

fence and lock the saw arm in the 0° position.

2. Lock rip, swivel, miter, bevel and table
locks.

3. Make blade guard, anti-kickback pawls and
spreader adjustments.

4. Remove workpiece from table.

5. Turn saw on.

6. Place workpiece under the guard nose,
keeping workpiece edge against the fence.

7. Place one hand flat on the workpiece and
next to fence.

8. Place the other hand behind the first so
that your fingers are:

• on the back edge of workpiece;

• out of the blade path and,

• as close to the fence as possible.

/k _

4mWARNIN(3: Even when all steps to

reduce kickback are taken, the

workpiece can still kickback. You or

others in the area can be hit hard

enough to cause broken bones or inter-
nal organ injury. Stand out of the line of
the saw blade and workpiece.

9. Stand out of the line of the workpiece to

be clear of workpiece in case of kickback.

Fig. 158 Hand and Body Position for Making an In-

Rip Cut

10. Position your body at the infeed end of

the saw blade. Start and complete the cut
from that same side.

11. Push the workpiece, putting pressure on
the part of the workpiece between the blade
and the fence. If you push the part of the

workpiece on the other side of the blade, the

blade could be pinched and the workpiece
will kickback.

12. Keep pushing the section of the

workpiece between the blade and the fence

until the piece has been pushed completely
past the anti-kickback pawls.

_1_ DANGER: The blade guard does

NOT provide complete protection at out-
feed end of the saw blade. The

workpiece could kickback as you reach
for, touch or pull the workpiece through
the blade, pulling your hand into the
blade. Fingers, hand, or arm can be cut
off. Do not pull, hold-down or touch the
workpiece at the outfeed end of the saw.

71

Kickback, Blade

Contact.

Fingers, hand, arm

can be cut off.

Follow instructions

for Ripping

Fig. 159 Kickback, Blade Contact Safety Sign

13. Turn the saw off

_ WARNING: Blade continues to turn

for about 12 seconds after power is
turned off. Do not reach for cut

workpiece until blade stops. Fingers or
hand can be cut off by the turning
blade. Wait for blade to stop turning.

14. Remove yellow key from red switch.

Bevel Ripping

To make a bevel rip cut:

1. Set the saw in the desired position.

2. Index the arm to 0° and lock in position.

3. Bevel the blade to the desired angle.

4. Follow steps for making a rip cut.

Note: For dadoing, molding and edging, fol-
low instructions for crosscutting.

Dadoing

1. Instructions for using dado blades are

provided with the dado blade.

2. The saw arbor is designed for a dado set

up to 13/16 inches wide. Use of a wider dado

on the arbor could cause the dado and arbor
nut to spin off. Take several passes of the

dado if cut required is greater than 13/16 of
an inch wide.

3. To avoid excessive load on the motor
never cut a 13/16 inch wide dado deeper than

1/8 inch in one pass.

4. When installing the dado on the arbor, al-
ways install the inside loose collar first to en-

sure good arbor nut engagement. Make sure
the arbor nut is snug. Install the arbor nut
directly against the outside of the dado.

Molding

1. Instructions for using the molding head are

provided with the molding head.

2. Use of molding head or drum sander with
the saw arbor vertical requires an opening

(next to rear face of fence) for saw arbor

clearance. See Cutting Accessories section to
make a molding fence.

Edging

1. Edging requires the use of a dado or mold-

ing head in the horizontal position (parallel
to table).

2. Use proper accessory guard when edging.
See Recommended Accessories section.

WARNING: Using the saw without the

proper accessory guard for edging is ex-
tremely dangerous. Hands, fingers or

arm can be cut off. Buy, use and follow
instructions for edging guard.

3. Use an auxiliary fence when edging with
the radial arm in the 0° miter position. See
Cutting Accessories section to make auxiliary
fence for edging in the 0° miter position.

72

_Ib WARNING: If the auxiliary fence is

not used when the saw arm is in the 0°
crosscut position, the molding head can-

not be located behind the fence for safe
and proper operation.

3. Remove saw blade, dado, or other acces-

sory from the saw arbor shaft before using
the accessory shaft. Do not use the saw with

accessories installed on both ends of the saw
arbor shaft at the same time.

4. Edging can also be done in the 30° left
miter without the use of an auxiliary fence.
Follow the instructions below.

4. Make sure the unused shaft is covered by a
guard, the arm, or the screw cap to avoid
being pulled into moving parts by hair,

threads, clothing.

• Miter the arm to the left approximate-

ly 30°.

• Swivel the motor until bottom of
motor is parallel to and facing the rip

fence and operating instructions label
is visible.

5. Drill chucks can bend and pieces of the
drill bit can break. You can be blinded or in-

jured if hit by thrown pieces. Do not use twist

drills longer than 7 inches.

6. Use a spade type drill of 1 inch diameter
or smaller. Use for drilling only wood or plas-

tic because the speed is not high enough for
other types of materials.

• Follow all steps outlined on motor
label as shown below.

Know this tool:

I Read and Undersl@_ _11 warnlng_ and i_s_ruclion_ On

saw m owner s Manual and w_h recommenC_ed acces
sor_es

2 ProperbyguardlheC_Jltirtt/ 3 Ptovidepro_rworkpiece

t_ _uDp_'t

4 POS_On Ihe culting tomb

___ Im_hin_ Ihe lence by mov-

! i_9 the _rm to the le_ and

cl_mping me yoke so _is

_t_e{ f_es the levee or
_st rucl an auxiliary

tEn_e _er Owner's Man.
ual

S With po_er offlhe switch

key removecl turn cutting

%/ t_l by hand to make sure

_30_ _ it does not str_ke guard

paris ,,.,.,.,

Fig. 160 Edging Label

Accessory Safety

1. For your safety use only recommended ac-
cessories. Use of any other accessories may
increase the risk of injury. See Recom-
mended Accessory section of manual.

2. Use of grinding wheels, abrasive or cut off
wheels, or wire wheels is dangerous because

they can break explosively and throw pieces.
You can be blinded or recieve a life threaten-

ing puncture wound. Do not use grinding

wheels, abrasive/cut off wheels or w4re wheels.

7. Do not use other reduced shank drills.

8. Remove adjusting wrenches. Form habit of
checking to see that adjusting wrenches are
removed from tool before turning it on.

9. When using the accessory shaft in the verti-
cal position, swivel the motor 90° so that the

arbor shaft is under the radial arm as shown.

_, WARNING: Clothing, hair, jewelry can

be caught and pulled into an exposed

arbor shaft. Fingers, hand or arm can be
broken or cut off. Place the arbor shaft

under the radial arm when using the ac_

cessory shaft.

Fig. 161 Arbor Shaft Position When Using Acces-

sory Shaft

73

i,iiiiiii

Cutting Accessories

Fences

Fences are required for all saw operations.

Crosscutting requires fences with kerfs (slots)
to match the path of the saw, because the saw
blade is pulled through the kerf in the fence

to cut the workpiece.

Ripping requires a solid fence with no kerfs
or slots, because the fence serves as a guide

for the workpiece being pushed into the saw
blade. If the workpiece is pushed along a

fence with kerfs, the workpiece can get
caught on a kerf, pinch the blade and cause
the workpiece to kickback.

Make a new fence:

• when the fence used for crosscutting
has weakened from having too many
kerfs cut in it;

• when you want to make a rip cut but

the fence on the saw has kerfs;

• when you want to crosscut a
workpiece higher than your current

fence.

To make a new fence:

1. Use 3/4 inch knot free lumber. Do not use

particle board or other composite material be-

cause they are not strong enough.

2. Cut lumber to a length equal to the length
of the table, and to a width more than half the

height of the workpiece being cut, but never
less than 3/4".

Push Stick

Push sticks are used during ripping when the
blade is placed between 2 and 6 inches from

the fence.

Make a push stick when:

• the blade is to be placed 2 to 6 in-

ches from the fence;

• existing push stick has been damaged.

To make a push stick:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot free) piece of lum-

ber.

2. Cut a piece 15 inches long by 1 5/8 inches

wide.

3. Cut a 45 degree notch in one end as shown.

Slightly Less Than

Thickness of Workpiece

up to 3/8"'--_.

Notch--L. L_F1/2

Note: A!_ Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 162 Push Stick Dimensions

Fig. 163 Way to Use Push Stick

74

Auxiliary Fence and Push

Block

An auxiliary fence must be used if the blade
is positioned between 1/2 inch and 2 inches

from the fence during ripping. An auxiliary

fence must always be used with a push block.

Their purpose is to keep your hands away

from the saw blade. They are also needed
when you use the molding head.

Make an auxiliary fence when:

• the blade is to be placed 2 inches or

less from the fence;

• an existing auxiliary fence is not the

same width all along its length;

• the existing auxiliary fence has been

damaged by blade contact.

To make auxiliary fence:

1. Use one piece of 3/8 inch plywood and two
pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.

2. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 44 inches
long by 5 1/2 inches wide.

3. Cut one piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44 in-
ches long by 3 5/8 inches wide.

4. Cut other piece of 3/4 inch plywood to 44
inches long by 2 1/4 inches wide.

5. Glue the two 3/4 inch plywood pieces
together so that they line up square (flush)

on an edge.

6. Glue the 3/8 inch plywood piece at right
angle to and flush against the 2 1/4 inch wide
3/4 inch plywood.

7. Reinforce with nails.

314" Plywood

This Face and This

I_dge Must Be Parallel

3!8" Plywood

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 164Auxiliaty Fence Dimensions

Push Block

Push blocks are always used with an auxiliary

fence.

Make a push block when:

• the blade is to be placed 1/2 inch to 2
inches from the fence;

• you make the first auxiliary fence;

• existing push block has been damaged.

To make a push block:

1. Use one piece of 3/4 inch plywood and one

piece of 3/8 inch plywood.

2. Cut the 3/4 inch plywood to 12 inches long
by 5 inches wide.

3. Cut a triangular piece off each of two

corners of the 12 inch side by marking with a

pencil in and down from the comers 1 1/4 in-

ches and cutting along the diagonal formed
by the points.

4. Cut the 3/8 inch plywood to 12 inches long

by 5 1/8 inches wide.

75

5. Cut out a notch from the 12 inch side of
the 3/8 plywood that is 9 1/2 inches long by

3/8 inch wide. The dimensions of the remain-
ing 3/8 plywood are shown in Fig. 165.

6. Glue the 3/4 inch plywood on top of the
3/8 inch plywood so that their 12 inch sides

are square, as shown;

These Edges Must

Be Parallel

3/8 -,-

2-1/2-_

5-1/8

3/4" Plywood

1-1/4 x

1-1/4

3/8" Plywood

2-1/2

3/8 3/8

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. !65 Push Block Dimensions

Auxiliary Fence for Edging

Make an auxiliary fence for edging:

• before doing edging with the arm at
0° miter position.

• when existing ones have been

damaged.

To make a fence for edging:

1. Use 3/4 inch solid (knot-free) lumber.

2. Cut to the dimensions shown.

Auxiliary Fence Spacer Table

Rear Table

7. Cut a piece of plywood 3/8 inch wide by
2 1/2 inches long and glue it to the underside

of the 3/8 inch plywood in line with the edge
that sticks out. Do not use nails because if

you accidently cut into the push block with
the saw blade, the nails will dull the blade.

8. Lay the push block on top of the auxiliary
fence to make sure that their widths match ex-

actly, and are each 4 3/4 inches.

I' " 45°_2_45_ " "12_ -_-_4 3/4

_u 4

Note: All Dimensions in Inches 3/4-_ J---

Fig. 167Auxiliary Fence for Edging

For use of the molding head or drum sander
with saw arbor vertical, the rear table re-

quires an opening (next to rear face of fence)
for arbor clearance. Cut opening directly
below arbor in vertical position. Opening

dimensions are shown below.

76

Rear Table-"1 _'[' "!"-3 113-1/2

, ]__

r

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 168 Rear Table Opening Dimensions

When operating the drum sander the motor

must be blown or vacuumed frequently to pre-
vent sawdust buildup which will interfere with
normal motor ventilation.

Featherboard

Featherboards are used during rip cutting to
help keep the workpiece against the fence.

The featherboard is damped to the front
table, so that the angled edge of the feather-
board is against the workpiece on the infeed

end of the blade. The other edge of the

workpiece is against the fence.

Make new featherboards when existing ones
have been damaged.

!. Use solid (knot free) lumber 24 inches by

5 1/2 inches by 3/4 inch.

2. On the 24 inch sides mark a point 5 1/2 in-
ches down on the left and 9 1/2 inches down

on the right from the edge of the board.
Draw a line between the points.

3.Crosscut workpiece at a 30 ° angle then rip

to make the kerfs.

4. Do not clamp the featherboard against the
cut off part of the work_iece.

Fig. 170 Way to Use a Featherboard

Attaching Auxiliary Board to

Crooked Workpiece

If the workpiece you want to rip cut does not

have a straight edge, attach an auxiliary board
to the workpiece.

1. Place irregular side of workpiece against

fence.

24 _ 5-1/2

4-1/2

Note: All Dimensions in Inches

Fig. 169 Featherboard Dimensions.

2. Place straight edged auxiliary board on top
of workpiece and against fence.

3. Tack the auxiliary board to the workpiece.

The auxiliary board must not extend beyond

the leading end of the workpiece and should
cover the workpiece width only enough to
pass between the blade and fence.

3. Use a fence that is equal to or higher than
the combined height of the workpiece and
auxiliary board.

77

i

Sears Recommends The Following Accessories

Item
Saw blades

(10" diameter with 5/8" hole)
Caster

Sanding Drum
Drill Chuck and Key

Dust Collector
Molding Head Guard 8"

Taper Jig

Auxiliary Table Cover

Miter Square
Extension Table

Satin Cut Dado

7"

8"

8" Carbide
Standard Cut Dado

8"

Adjustable Dado

7"-24 Tooth Carbide
7"-32 Tooth Carbide

7"-16 Tooth Carbide
8"-48 Tooth Carbide

Molding Heads

7"-Bits Not Included
7"-27 Piece Set
7"-15 Piece Set

Sanding Wheel-10"

Cabinet Accessories
Shelf
Door
3 Drawer Set
Books
Power Tool Know How

Handbook

Guards

Lower Retractable Guard
(For 900 Crosscut Only)

Cat. No.

See Catalog

9-22254

9-25246

9-2980

See Catalog

9-29523

9-3233

See Catalog

9-32056
9-32795

9-3257
9-3253
9-3264

9-32475

9-3261
9-3262
9-3263

9-32708

9-3214
9-3217
9-3218

9-22723

9-22251
9-22252
9-22253

See Catalog

9-29OO9

Recommended means that these
accessories are designed to fit this radial

arm saw. Read and follow accessory
instructions on their use and limitations.

78

LowerBladeGuardSafetyInformation

IMPORTANT

The following safety information and instruc-
tions apply to all blades and accessories.

The lower blade guard is required by the Oc-

cupational Safety and Health Administration
(OSHA) if the radial saw is used commer-

cially. The lower blade guard is intended for
use only in repetitive 90° crosscutting.

Repetitive 90 ° Crosscutting is the repeated
and continuous cutting of many pieces of

lumber to the same length with the saw
placed in the 90 ° crosscut position.

In repetitive 90 ° crosscutting, the guard may
reduce the chance of accidentally touching the
blade from the side. This protection is possible

ONLY when:

• the blade is in its rearmost position and

• the guard is resting on the table so the
leading and trailing teeth of the blade are
not exposed from the sides.

The lower blade guard ONLY provides protec-
tion against minor cuts and bruises that occur

from contact with the flat sides of the spinning

blade.

A WARNING: The lower blade guard will

not provide any protection if the blade is
pulled over your hand, or your hand en-

ters the blade path from the front or rear

of the blade. Fingers or hand can be cut
or cut off.

WARNING

Remove the lower blade guard for ALL other
types of cuts except repetitive 90° crosscut-
ting. Using the lower guard other than for re-
petitive 90 ° crosscutting will increase the risk

of certain hazards:

During rip and bevel cuts the workpiece
or narrow cut-off pieces can be pinched
between the guard and the blade. Work-
piece or cut-off pieces can kickback.

In the bevel position the blade teeth are
fully exposed. Fingers or hand can be cut

off.

Cut off pieces can jam between the guard
and blade. Turn saw off and wait for

blade to stop before freeing a jammed
guard or blade.

Workpiece or cut-off pieces can be vio-
lently thrown by the blade. Wear safety
goggles.

CAUTION

The lower blade guard can get caught or jam
in fence or table kerfs.

Read and follow the warning on the lower
outer guard:

Read saw manual for additional saw use and
safety information.

79

Glossary

Anti-kickback Pawls: Pivoted objects with
teeth which help prevent workpiece kickback.

Arbor: The bar or shaft that holds the saw
blade.

Bevel: The slanting of the motor and blade to

an angle between 0° and 90 °.

Crosscut: Cutting a workpiece to length.

Dado: Non-through cut which produces a

square sided notch or trough in the workpiece.

Featherboard: Device used to keep
workpiece in contact with the fence during rip-

ping.

Freehand: Performing a cut without the use
of fence, guide or hold-down designed to

prevent the workpiece from moving during
the cutting operation.

Heel: Misalignment of the blade relative to
blade travel path.

lnfeed: The end of the saw blade where the
workpiece is fed during ripping; identified by

the absence of pawls.

In-Rip: Positioning the the motor toward the
front of the table, the blade toward the fence.

Kerr: Slot caused by removal of material by
the blade in a through cut, or a shallow slot

produced by the blade in a non-through cut.

Kickback: Uncontrolled throwing of the

workpiece during tipping.

Miter: Positioning the saw arm to the tight or
left of 0°.

Molding Cut: Non-through cut which
produces a contoured surface on the

workpiece.

Outfeed: The end of the saw blade where the
rip cut workpiece leaves the saw blade; iden-
tified by presence of pawls.

Out-rip: Positioning the motor toward the
fence, the blade toward the front of the table

during tipping.

Parallel: When two surfaces are the same dis-
tance apart at all points.

Perpendicular: When two surfaces are 90°
(square) to each other.

Push Block/Auxiliary Fence: Two accessories
used together for ripping a workpiece be-

tween 1/2 inch and 2 inches wide.

Push Stick: Cutting accessory used during rip-
ping a workpiece between 2 inches and 6 in-

ches wide.

Revolutions Per Minute (RPM): Number of
turns completed by an object in one minute.

Ripping: Used to change the width of a
work_iece by cutting along its length.

Spreader: Used during ripping to keep the
kerf from dosing and pinching the blade. It
helps prevent kickback.

Workpieee: Object being cut by the saw.

8O

Helpful Hints

In order to get accurate cutting results from
your radial arm saw, do the following:

1. Follow all steps in the Alignment of
the Blade section.

2. Place the long edge of your framing
square against the edge of the

workpiece that will be held against the

fence during cutting. Make sure that
this edge of the workpiece is straight.

3. Make sure that your workpiece lays
flat on the front table of your saw.

4. Clean all sawdust and woodchips
from the table.

5. Hold the workpiece firmly against the
fence and table during all cuts. You
should use extra force during miter and
bevel cuts since the workpiece tends to

move when these cuts are made.

6. Use the right sawblade for each job,
and make sure that all blades and cut-

ting tools are sharp.

3. Place the same edge of the workpiece
against the fence for all cuts. Make the

first cut at one end of the workpiece, then
flip the workpiece over and make the

second cut from the other end. Continue

this way until all four cuts are made.

(Figure 171)

This Edge of Board Fence

Against Fence For All Cuts ]

Turn workpiece over end for end...

keep same edge against fence when

making successive cuts.

Pencil Line for

Gauging Required Length

Fig. 171- Making a 4-Sided Frame

When making a four-sided frame:

1. Make sure that the top and bottom

pieces are exactly the same length.

4. Make a pencil line on the table for
gauging the length of each cut.

2. Make sure that both side pieces are
exactly the same length.

BI

To extend the life of the front table of your
saw, tack a piece of 1/4 inch plywood over it.

Make sure that the tacks are not in the path
of the saw blade.

Use of a front table cover does the following:

3. Lock the miter, bevel, or swivel lock.

These steps will reduce stress on saw parts,
and improve the accuracy of your cuts.

.Allows all cuts to be made in the cover

rather than the front table.

• Slows the dulling of the blade.

There are three pre-set miter angles at 45 °,

0°, and -45 °, five pre-set bevel angles at -90 °,

-45 °, 0°, 45 °, and 90 °, and three pre-set
swivel angles at the crosscut, in-rip and out-
rip positions. When you are moving the arm,
blade, or motor into one of these positions,

do the following:

1. Move the arm, blade, or motor past

the position you want, and then gradual-

ly bring it back.

2. Once the arm, blade, or motor snaps
into the desired position, push it to the
right as far as possible within this posi-

tion. Movement of the arm, blade, or
motor will be slight.

The following table is provided to convert the
decimal numbers on the digital display to

fractions. All decimals are rounded to the

nearest .01 inch. (Figure 172)

GT-:

_.09

.19

_ 28

.31
34

.44

.47

_ .50

Fig. 172

.60

.63
.66

Decimal Equivalent

82

Maintaining Your Saw

General

_I_WARNING: For your own safety,

turn power switch off and remove plug
from power source outlet before main-

taining or lubricating your saw.

When you receive your new Craftsman radial
saw, it requires no lubrication. The radial

saw has been partially aligned and all bear-
ings are lubricated and sealed for life. In
time, however, in order to keep your saw in

perfect working order and accurate, it will be

necessary to lubricate and realign. In fact
your radial saw needs more of a cleaning

than a lubrication.

Replacing Antikickback Pawls

Make sure the teeth of the antikickbackpawls
are always sharp. If they become dull they

must be replaced. With a 1/2 inch wrench or
socket remove the 5/16 hex nut and old

pawls. Reassemble new antikickback pawls"

and spreader to the bar. Check spreader for

proper alignment and correct if necessary.

(See Alignment of the Blade, Installing
Guard / Setting Spreader section.)

Cleaning

Periodically remove any heavy build-up of
sawdust that may accumulate on the saw.

The absorbing tendency of sawdust will draw

lubricants away from the areas where they
are needed. Clean the carriage bearings and

track surfaces. If packed sawdust and grease

accumulate repeatedly on carriage bearings
and track inspect the wipers for wear and

replace if necessary. (See Adjustments to
Compensate for Wear, Swdvel Lock, later in

this section.)

To avoid motor damage the motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent
sawdust build-up which will interfere with

normal motor ventilation.

Lubrication

Your saw is precision built and should be
kept properly lubricated. Before describing
the various points which may periodically re-

quire lubrication, it is more important to first
mention the points which should not be lubri-

cated.

Do not lubricate the following:

•carriage ball bearings

•motor bearings

• area between the miter locking rings
and the column tube

The carriage ball beatings and motor bearings

are sealed ball bearings which require no
added lubrication.

Do lubricate the following, periodically, using
SAE No 10W-30 automotive engine oil:

*Apply a few drops of oil along the

swivel index pin and the bevel index pin

only if the pins have a tendency to
stick. Swivel to in-rip or out-rip for
easy access to the swivel indexpin.
Bevel to 45 ° and bevel indexpin can be
easily accessed behind theyoke as

illustrated (Figure 173)

83

• Lubricate the cam surfaces of the rip

lock assembly.

A light film of oil should be wiped on
the face of the column tube to lubricate

the fit between the column tube and

column support. Turn the elevation

handwheel to raise the arm to its upper

limit. Wipe a light film of oil on the
face of the column tube.

Apply a tilm of oil here

Fig. 173- Swive! and Bevel Index Pins

• Lubricate the bearing points where the
arm attaches to the column tube. With

a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two
screws and the rear arm cover for ac-

cess to these points. Be careful not to
get lubricant on the locldng rings as this
will adversely affect the miter locking

function. (Figure 174)

Fig. 174 - Bearing Points Where Arm Attaches to

Column Tube

Fig. 175 - Oiling column tube.

•The thread on the elevation shaft as-
sembly can be lubricated through the

oil hole in the center of the radial arm

cap. Lubricate ramp on the swivel index

spring.

.Apply a few drops of oil to the foot as-

semblies, where the levers are inserted

through the rods.

Do not use too much oil. Excessive oil at any
location will attract airborne dust particles

and sawdust.

Refer to parts lists for locations of parts as

needed.

Adjustments for Wear

Bevel Lock

The purpose of the bevel lock is to lock the
motor at any bevel angle. An adjustment is
required if the motor can be easily moved by

hand when the bevel lock is locked or if bevel
lock offers minimal resistance when moving it

to the locked position. To make this adjust-
ment:

1. Remove motor support cover.

2. Position the motor at approximately 30 °
bevel angle and lock bevel lock. (Figure 176)

5. Adjustment is complete when both locking
and indexing functions are working properly.

Replace motor support cover.

Swivel Lock

This handle provides a friction lock between
the upper face of the yoke and the bottom
face of the carriage. It should eliminate any
play or rotation between these two parts when
locked. An adjustment is required if the yoke

can be easily rotated by hand when handle is
locked or yoke lock handle offers minimal
resistance when moving handle to the locked

position. To make this adjustment:

I

_ Bevel Lock

Fig. 176-Bevel Lock- Locked

3. With a 3/4 socket tighten the 1/2-13 hex
nut located at the back of the motor support
casting until the motor can no longer be easily

moved by hand. Do not overtighten.

4. Unlock bevel lock and move motor to any
of the five index positions. If the motor does
not index securely the adjustment is too tight.

Loosen 1/2-13 hex nut until bevel indexpin
seats properly.

Fig. 177

1. Remove screw and nut from knob on

swivel lock. Remove knob from swivel lock
lever using a regular screw driver.

2. Separate the wrench from the lever by

rotating the wrench a few degrees counter-
clockwise from the lever to disengage tab.

3. Using the wrench portion tighten the

square nut one quarter rotation at a time. This

is done by locating the wrench across the
corners of the square nut then moving the
wrench until it lines up with the lever portion

and the two screw holes are in line.

Ft). 178

Arm and Column

With the miter lock unlocked and in the unin-
dexed position the arm should fit snugly to

the column tube and not allow any vertical
movement. If you can move the end of the

arm up and down an adjustment is needed.

1. With a #2 Phillips screwdriver remove two
screws and the rear arm cover.

2. With a 9/16 inch wrench or socket tighten
evenly the top two 3/8-16 hex head tapping

screws. The bottom two screws should also be
tightened evenly but not as tight as the top

screws. (Figure 179)

4. Holding the wrench and arm in position
rotate yoke to a non-preset position and

rotate swivel lock to the locked position. If the

yoke can still be moved the square nut has not

been tightened enough. Repeat step 3.

5. When the adjustment is such that the yoke
can no longer be moved when the swivel lock

is in the locked position. Reinsert the tab on
the wrench into the slot in the lever.

6. Unlock swivel arm and rotate yoke to a

non-preset position. Return yoke to a rip
position. If the index pin does not securely
seat at the preset position, the adjustment is

too tight. Remove the two screws and loosen
the square nut one quarter turn until swivel
index pin seats securely.

7. Adjustment is complete when both locking
and preset position functions are working
properly.

8. When the adjustment is such that the yoke

can no longer be moved when the swivel lock
is in the locked position. Reinsert the tab on
the wrench into the slot in the lever.

9. Re-install knob to swivel handle and install

screw and nut in knob.

Fig. 179 - Location of Hex Head Tapping Screws

3. This adjustment is correct when the arm
moves firmly without vertical movement.

4. Re-install the rear arm cover.

Carriage Bearings

The carriage should roll freely but with some

resistance for the entire length of travel. To
check for bearing looseness, perform the fol-

lowing steps.

1. Place yoke in either the in-rip or out-rip

position.

86

2. Push the carriage back against the rear stop.

3. Hold the front carriage bearing with your
fingers as tight as possible and pull carriage

forward at the same time. If you can prevent

the bearing from turning an adjustment is

required. (Figure 180)

Fig. 182 - Location of Hex Nut

Fig. 180. Front Carriage Bearings

4. Repeat step 3 with the rear carriage bear-
ings.

To adjust the carriage bearings perform the
following steps:

1. Clean and lubricate the bearing races and

the bead on which they ride prior to adjust-
ment.

2. To adjust the bearing, use a 9/16 inch
wrench to hold the bolt head while using a

1/2 inch wrench to loosen the hex nut.
(Figure 182)

3. Rotate the eccentric bolts a partial turn
(left or right) as required to take up loose-

ness. Both bolts should be adjusted an equal

amount to maintain blade squareness to the

table in the rip positions.

4. Hold the head of the eccentric bolts in their
new position and refighten the nuts. Do not

overtighten. Overtightening the bearings will
cause difficult operation and severly reduce
the life of the track and bearings.

5. Repeat the test procedure as described
above and readjust if necessary.

Miter Lock

The miter lock operates adjustable locking
bands which lock the arm to the column tube

in both indexed and unindexed positions. If
the arm can be easily moved by hand when

locked in an unindexed position the following
adjustment must be made.

1. Move the arm to an unindexed position
and leave the miter lock in the unlocked posi-

tion. (Figure 183)

87

\

\

\

\

\

\

Miter Lock Handle

Rip Lock

The ffp lock locks the carriage in any position
along the length of the arm. If the carriage

can be easily moved by pushing and pulling
on the yoke handle when the rip lock is in the

locked position an adjustment is required.

1. Hold the rip lock in the unlocked position

and with a 7/16 inch wrench tighten the 1/4-
20 hex lock nut 1/4 turn. (Figure 185)

Fig. 183 - Miter Lock - Unlocked

2. With a 3/16 inch hex "L" wrench find the
1/4-20 hex socket cap screw through the hole

in the rear of the arm cover. To tighten turn

the wrench clockwise approximately 1/4 turn.

(Figure 184)

Fig. 184 - Location of Hex Socket Cap Screw

3. Lock the miter lock and try again to move

the arm. Readjust if necessary.

4. If it becomes extremely difficult to push

the miter lock into the locked position too
much adjustment has been made. Turn the

wrench counterclockwise one half the

amount of the last adjustment and try again
to lock the arm.

Arm Track

Rip Lock / -- _k,

Lever Cam Carriage

Bolt

Fig. 185 - Location of Hex LOck Nut

2. Lock the rip lock and try again to move the

carriage. Make additional adjustments if

necessary.

3. Place the rip lock in the unlocked position
and move the carriage back and forth from

stop to stop. If the carriage is difficult to
move at any point or you can feel the rip lock
dragging on the track the adjustment is too
tight. Loosen the hex nut one half the
amount of the last adjustment and try again.

88

Motor

To avoid motor damage this motor should be
blown out or vacuumed frequently to prevent
sawdust buildup which will interfere with nor-

mal motor ventilation.

3. As soon as the red button will click into
running position, the saw may be started and

operated normally.

4. Frequent blowing of fuses or tripping of cir-

cuit breakers may result if:

Your saw is equipped with a manual reset
button designed to open the power line cir-

cuit when the motor temperature exceeds a
safe level, motor is overloaded, or a low volt-

age condition exists. (Figure 186)

Fig. 186 - Manual Reset Button

1. If the protector opens the line and stops

the saw motor, immediately turn the saw
switch off, remove the yellow key, and allow
the motor to cool.

•Motor is overloaded: Overloading can

occur if you feed too rapidly or if saw is
misaligned so that the blade heels.

• Motor circuit is fused differently from

recommendations: Always follow in-

structions for the proper fuse/breaker.
Do not use a fuse/breaker of greater
capacity without consulting a qualified

electrician.

.Low voltage: Although the motor is

designed for operation on the voltage
and frequency specified on the
nameplate, normal loads will be band-
led safely on voltages not more than

10% above or below the nameplate

voltage. Heavy loads, however, require
that voltage at motor terminals equal

the voltage specified on nameplate.

.Improper extension cord size.

2. After cooling to a safe operating tempera-
ture, the overload protector can be closed

manually by pushing the red button on the
top of the motor. If the red button will not
click into place immediately, the motor is still

too hot and must be allowed to cool for a

while longer.

The motor may take as long to cool as it did
for the heat to build up. An audible click
when you push the red button will indicate
that the protector is closed (reset) and the
saw is ready for use.

89

Changing Motor Voltage

BOTH MODELS

,_, DANGER: To avoid electric shock unplug the saw before changing motor voltage.

Under normal home workshop usage, and if
full voltage is supplied to the motor, your saw

will operate efficiently on 120V, as connected

at the factory. However, if any of the follow-
ing conditions exist, it will be advisable for

you to have a qualified electrician reconnect

the motor for 240V operation:

•Heavy duty operations.

• Either an undersized or an overloaded
branch circuit serving the saw motor.

.Low voltage supplied by the power

source, which the power company can-
not correct.

The procedures for changing the motor volt-
age (factory set for 120V) are described

below. These instructions should be followed

Dual Voltage Switch

Fig. 187 - Dual Voltage Switch

3. Replace the 120V power cord plug with a
240V, 15 AMP, 3-blade plug. (Figure 188)

by a qualified electrician only.

Note: Whenever changing the switch position
from 120V to 240V or vice versa, make cer-

tain that all necessary steps (including proper
fusing of the branch circuit) are completed.

Connection for 120V A.C.

1. Remove motor coverpanel at blade end of

motor.

2. Using a small screwdriver, slide dual volt-

age switch to 120V position. Then replace
motor cover panel.

3. Use 120V power cord furnished with the

saw.

Connection for 240V A.C.

1. Remove motor coverpanel at blade end of

motor.

2. Using a small screwdriver, slide dual volt-

age switch to 240V position. Then replace
motor cover panel. (Figure 187)

Grounding Blade Is
Longest of 3 Blades

Grounded

Outlet Box

No Adapter Is Available For This Type Plug

Fig. 188 - 240V Plug and Receptacle

4. Connect the power cord white and black
leads, respectively, to the two "hot" plug

blades, and connect the power cord ground-
ing wire to the plug ground prong.

5. Plug the saw into a 240V, 15 AMP, 3-blade
receptacle.

6. Make certain the receptacle is connected
to a 240V A.C. power supply through a 240V

branch circuit having at least a 15 AMP time
delay fuse or circuit breaker.

911

Troubleshooting

d_E WARNING: To avoid injury turn power switch off and remove plug from power

source outlet before troubleshooting.

Electronics

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

No display when On/Off
button is pressed.

Battery not installed correctly. Adjust battery position in com-

partment.

Battery contacts dirty. Clean battery contacts.

Battery dead. Replace battery with 6V, size J,

alkaline battery.

Indicator display failure. Contact Sears. Have electronics

checked by qualified technician.

Display shows Normal display when battery is No action required.

first installed in unit.

ELE •

Reference points not set for
desired display.

Follow procedure for setting zero
reference points in the Setting

Electronic Display section.

Poor battery contact to in- Clean battery contacts. Adjust
dicator display leads causing in- battery position in compartment.

termittent power to display.

Indicator display failure.

Contact Sears. Have electronics
checked by qualified technician.

Display dim.

Low battery voltage.

Replace battery with 6V, size J,
alkaline battery.

Saw very cold.

Allow saw to warm to above
32°F.

Display dark. Saw very warm. Allow saw to cool to below 120°F.

Display blanks after a few Normal. Press On!Off button. Display
minutes, should return.

Display blanks when Normal. Sometimes indicator No action required.
moving carriage, then will not display while blade

re-appears when motion position is changing rapidly.

stops.

91

Electronics - 2

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Display shows EEE.E or
EE.EE.

Arm or carriage moved too Follow procedure for setting

rapidly for indicator to monitor, zero reference points in the Set-

ting Electronic Display section.

Display will reset to zero
but immediately shows

EEE.E or EE.EE when
arm or carriage is moved.

Encoder or indicator display
defective.

Have electronics checked by
qualified technician. Repair ser-

vice available at nearest Sears

Store.

Display does not change

when arm or carriage is

moved.

Wrong indicator function
selected.

Select proper function.

Encoder or indicator display
defective.

Have electronics checked by
qualified technician. Repair ser-

vice available at nearest Sears

Store.

Display does not read 0°, Indicator not set to zero

or 45 ° at bevel or miter in- reference at index points.

dexes.

Follow procedure for setting
zero reference points in the Set-

ring Electronic Display section.

Angle encoder not adjusted.

Follow procedure for adjusting
encoders in the Setting
Electronic Display section.

Motor

Problem

Probable Cause What to Do

Motor will not run.

Protector open; circuit broken. Push red button located on top

of motor. Listen for audible
click that indicates motor is
reset.

Low voltage. Check power line for proper

voltage.

Motor will not run and

fuses blow.

Short circuit in line, cord, or

plug.

Inspect line, cord, and plug for
damaged insulation and shorted

wires.

Short circuit in motor or loose

connections.

Inspect all terminals in motor
for loose or shorted terminals

or worn insulation wires.

Incorrect fuses in power line. Install correct fuses.

9"2

Motor - 2

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Motor fails to develop full

power.

(Power output of motor
decreases rapidly with
decrease in voltage at

motor terminals. For ex-
ample: a reduction of

10% in voltage causes a

reduction of 19% in maxi-
mum power output of

which the motor is
capable, while a reduction

of 20% in voltage causes a
reduction of 36% in maxi-

mum power output.)

Power line overloaded with
lights, appliances, and other

motors.

Reduce the line load.

Undersize wires or circuit too
long.

Increase wire sizes, or reduce
length of wiring.

General overloading of power
company's facilities.
(In many sections of the
country, demand for electrical
power exceeds the capacity of
existing generating and distribu-

tion systems).

Request a voltage check from
power company.

Motor overheats. Excessive feed rate when

crosscutting or ripping.

Slow down rate of feed.

Improper cooling.
(Air circulation restricted

through motor due to sawdust,
etc.)

Clean out sawdust to provide
normal air circulation through

motor.

Saw blade has heel.

Refer to Making Blade Parallel
to Table section.

Motor starts slowly or
fails to come up to full

speed.

Starting switch will not trip due
to low voltage.

Correct low voltage condition.

Motor stalls resulting in
blown fuses or tripped cir-

cuit breakers.

Voltage too low to permit Correct the low line voltage con-
motor to reach operating speed, dition.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not Replace fuses or circuit
have sufficient capacity, breakers with proper capacity

units.

Frequent opening of fuses
or circuit breakers.

Motor overloaded.

Fuses or circuit breakers do not
have sufficient capacity.

Reduce motor load.

Replace fuses or circuit
breakers.

93

Saw Operations

Problem

Crosscuts not accurate at

0° and 45 ° miter.

Probable Cause

Looseness between column tube

and column support.

What to Do

Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Crosscut travel not square
with fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Crosscut Travel.

Column is loose in support. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Adjusting Elevation.

Arm not indexing properly.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw,
Adjustments for Wear, Miter

I_ck.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for

Ripping.

Looseness between yoke and car- Go to Maintaining Your Saw,
riage assembly. Adjustments for Wear, Swivel

Lock.

Sawdust between workpiece and Keep front table clean.
fence.

Fence not straight.

Replace fence.

Saw cuts at slight bevel
(not 90 ° to table).

Work table not properly leveled. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade not square to table.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Table for
Crosscutting.

Carriage Bearings Loose

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Table for
Ripping.

Bevel lock loose.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw,
Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock.

94

Saw Operations - 2

Problem

Probable Cause

What to Do

Workpiece kerr rough
with tooth marks from

blade (also called heel).

Saw blade not square
to fence.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Squaring Blade to Fence.

Saw blade not parallel
to table.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Using improper blade for finish Use proper smooth cutting
cut desired, blade.

Wood binds, smokes, and Dull blade or warped board.
motor slows down or stops

when ripping.

Sharpen or replace the saw
blade. Do not use severely

warped material.

Feed rate too fast. Slow feed rate.

Saw blade heels. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Fence not straight. Replace fence.

Carriage assembly loose on arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Squaring Blade to Table for Rip-

ping.

Board pulls away from

fence when ripping.

Saw blade has heel.

Go to Alignment of the Blade,
Making Blade Parallel to Table.

Workpiece strikes
spreader when ripping.

Spreader not in line with blade. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Installing Guard / Setting
Spreader.

Saw does not travel

smoothly on arm.

Dirty track.

Clean track and lubricate with
light grease.

Bad bearing. Replace bearing.

Worn track. Replace track.

Clamping force not suffi- Miter lock needs adjustment.
cient at miter angles other

than 45°.

Go to Maintaining Your Saw,
Adjustments for Wear, Miter
Lock.

95

Saw Operations - 3

Problem Probable Cause What to Do

Clamping force not suffi-
cient at bevel angles other

than 45 ° .

Bevel lock needs adjusting. Go to Maintaining Your Saw,

Adjustments for Wear, Bevel

Lock.

Depth of cut varies from
one end of the workpiece

to the other.

Table top not parallel with arm. Go to Alignment of the Blade,

Leveling Front Table.

Blade tends to advance
through lumber too fast.

Dull blade.

Not advancing saw properly.

Replace or sharpen blade.

Draw saw blade across lumber
with a slow and steady pull.

Table cannot be leveled.

(Right side is higher than
left side with no adjustment

left, or vice versa.)

Column support shifted where it
mounts to saw base.

Loosen the six bolts that hold
the column support to the saw

base and shift arm.

96

NOTES

" " 2_

97

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.197410 AND 113.197610

16

(SEE FIG. 6)

I

44

42

42

_ 27

/

28

17

19

/

\\ 3_9 38

FIGURE 1

11

37

J

\ 34

(SEE FIG. 9)

(SEE FIG. 2) "_

\\ 35

98

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS. 113.197410 AND 113.197610

Always order by Part Number - Not by Key Number

FIGURE 1

Part

No. No. Description

I

816333-1

4 }

5i

6 I

81
91

;101

111 I

12[
13[

141
15[
161

171

181
1191

1201
i211

i221
i231

i241

STD551010
60339

808380-6

60353
815649
815710
815820

816333

STD541025
STD551225
STD551012

818160
STD512507

806828-4

STD551012
60074

37384

815762
815989

818190

818181
818180

Screw, Pan Rec.

Type "TT" 10-32x 1/2

*Washer, 13/64 x 7/16 x 1/16

Bolt, Hex Hd. 3/8-16 x 2-1/8
Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Plastite No. 8 x 1

*Washer, .380 x 47/64 x 1/8

Bearing, Arm
Strap
Cap, Arm

*Screw, Pan Rec. Hd.

Type "TT" 10-32 x 7/8

Arm Assembly (see Fig. 5)

*Nut, Hex 1/4-20
* Lockwasher, External 1/4

*Washer, 17/64 x 9/16 x 3/64

Spacer

*Screw, Pan Cross 1/4-20 x 5/8

Table Boards Set (see Fig. 6)
Screw, Pan Cross Ty T

1/4-20 x !-1/2

*Washer, 17/64 x 5/6 x 1/32

Screw, Hex Socket Set

1/4-20 x 7/8

Nut, Tee
Bushing, Rubber
Clip, "U" 1/4-20
Channel, Lock Mounting
Slide Assembly, Lock L.H.
Slide Assembly, Lock R.H

*Standard Hardware Item may be Purchased Locally.

Key Part

No. No. Description

25 815797-1

26

27
28
29

30

31

32
33

34

35
36

37
38

39
4O

41
42
43
44

STD541037
815774
60208
815980
81585_1

E

818192

816386
818200

6OO43
818193

818247
805589-5
818173
815773

507974
507973

SP5251

Screw, Pan Cross

Type "AB" 1/4 x 5/8

*Nut, Hex 3/8-16

Rivet 1/4 x 1/2

Nut, Push 1/4
Bushing
Screw, Hex Wash Hd

5/16-18 x 1-1/4

Yoke and Motor Assembly

(see Figs. 3 & 4)
Guard Assembly (see Fig. 12)
Cabinet Assembly

Model 197610(see Fig. 8)

Cabinet Assembly

Model 19'7410 (see Fig. 9)

Cap, End R.H.
Base and Column Assembly

(see Fig. 2)
Knob, Bevel Lock

Actuator, Lock
Screw, Pan Cross 1/4-20 x 1-1/8

Cap, End L.H.
Nut, Square Lock 1/4-20

Screw, Truss Hd. 1/4-20 x 1/2
Cord with Plug
Cover, Rear Arm
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)
Bag of Loose Parts (Not Ills.)

Owners Manual (Not Ills.)

99

PARTS LIST FOR CRAFTSMAN 10" ELECTRONIC RADIAL SAW

MODEL NOS, 113.197410 AND 113.197610

1

1

41

42

35

40

/

38

1

14

15

36

34 33

15

15

13

31

43

\

13

21

30

24 25

23

13

26

27

28

FIGURE 2

100