
T.F.
26-23
INDEX
PAGE
I General
. . . .
. . . . . . .
. .
. . .
. .
.
. . ' . . . . .l
II
Specifications...............
.....2
III Basic Operation....o...o..........3
IV
Disassembly.
.
. . . . . . . . . . .
. . . . . . . .
.
.4
V Trouble
Shooting..................18

-7-
T.F.
26-23
circuit
tends to indicate
a
good thermostat
electrically.
Hovtever, after
attaching
ohm
meter
leads
to the
thermostat
terminals, the terminaLs
should
be moved to
check
for inter-
mittent
contact. If the
condition
of
the thermostat
is
questionable,
after
testing,
it
should be
replaced.
In addition to a
continuity
test,
the
operating
temperature
may have
to be checked.
A temperature test
can be
made
i.lith a stem thermometer
in
the
lower
plug
hole or an
oven
thermometer
in the rear exhaust
duct. The temperature
will
vary
from l5Oo
to
ltOo
on
cycles.
This
would
verify the
cycling
thermostat.
After
the cycling therrostat is
verified, the
hi-linit
thermostat
can
be
checked
in the
same method
by
jumping
the cycling therrnstat.
Another test
of the hi-Iimit therrnostat
is to
run the
unit
with
the door
open and the door
switch
depressed. If the
hi-Iimit thermostat
cuts out
the
heat
circuit,
it is
serving
its
purpose.
Thermostats are subject to temperature
variance, therefore,
a temperature test
rnay be
required
to
verify normal operation.
5. Molded Fan Housing
Secured
by eight
5,/L6"
hex
head screws
located
on
the
outside
of
the rear
panel.
NOTE:
One
hole
plug will
have to
be removed
from the
rear
ducF6 make
one
screvt
accessible.
6. Drum
Bearings
This
section
covers replacement of
both
front
and
rear
drum
bearings
located
in the heat shroud
and rear
duct,
respectively.
NOTE: Lubrication for drum
bearings
is
applied
to the drum
G-nges
before
re-installing it into the
unit.
1. Clean aII
existing
grease
from
the
front
and rear drum
flanges.
2.
Clean
flanges with
fine
grade
(250-400)
emery cloth
or
sandpaper
to
insure
they
are
free
of foreign
matter,
then
wipe clean.
3.
Be sure
inside
of drum is
clean.
4. Apply a
thin
coat of Silicone Grease
(GE
G-34I-M)
to
each drum
flange.

T. F .
26-23'
-8-
To replace
bearings:
I.
Remove
the
bearing(s)
to be
replaced
from the
flange.
2. Remove all old adhesive
and felt
from
the flange
with
a
non-flammable
solvent.
Be sure the
flange surface
is
clean and
drv.
3.
Use
3I"t
#847
Adhesive to attach new
bearing blocks
to the
flanges.
4.
Apply
a thin coat
of adhesive
to
the entire
felt surface
of the bearing
where
it
contacts
the flange.
Rear:
Install blocks
on
flange
of
the rear
panel,
flush
dff,-
tne
inside
edge. A
4"
wide
putty
knife
or
metal
lrlate
can
be
used as a
guide
to
assure that
the
bearing blocks
are
motrnted flush.
Bearing
Block
Felt
SeaI
FTG.
6
Position
one block
in
upper
centre^of rear duct, and
two
(2')
blocks
in
lower half
on centre,
45" off of
bottom centre.
To
determine
this,
place
one block
(no
adhesive)
on
bottom centre,
then
mark the
flange approximately
l"
from
each end of this
block.
These
marks
are the
position
of
the
bottom edges of
the two
(2)
lower
blocks
when installed.
Bearing
Flange
t

-10-
T.F.
26-23
Drum
Remove the rear
panel
and drive belt,
then
lift the
drum
straiqht
out
from the
shelI.
Filter Guard
Assembly
The filter
guard,
inside
the
drum,
rear centre,
is
removed
by
grasping in the finger holes
provided
and
pulling
straight
out.
NOTE:
A bead around that
portion
of the
fiLter guard
which
?iE
into
the drum
and
four
(4)
dimples
in
the
rear
portion
of
the drum keep
the
guard
from falling
out. When
installing,
the
guard
should snap
into
place
with a positive
click.
Lint Filter
The filter itself is inside
the
filEer guard.
With
the
filter
guard
in
one
hand,
screen
mesh
portion
facing you,
notice
a
"handle"
on
the filter
itself.
Grasp
handle
and
rotate
filter so
that it is
adjacent
to
any one
of four
(4)
securing
Eabs
of the filter
guard.
pull
the
',handIe,,
away
from the tab
and
straight
out.
To
replace,
place
filter
in
guard
and
push
into
place
around
the entire
3600
circumference
or until
the filter
"cricks"
past
arl four
tabs.
FTG.
8
D.
Outer Shell Assembly
The shell
assembly includes:
(f)
Motor
Assembly,
(2)
Idler
Assenbly,
(3)
Bottom Access
panel,
(41
Clips
which
secure
wiring,
and
(5)
wheels.
The
rear
panel
must be removed
to
service all but
the
wheels
and
the boEtom
access
panel
I.
2.

-r2-
Blower
Fan
-
Remove
fan
to
the
PuIleY
end of
the
councer-clockwise.
The
t'lotor
Mounting
ClamPs
-
with
straight
blade
screw driver,
pressure down and
PrY
out to
the
clamp
from the mounting
bracket.
by
attaching a
pair
of
vice
grips
motor
shaft and
turn
the fan
fan housing
has
a
right-hand
thread.
secured
by
to the
area
toctite should
CIamP
a large
APPIY
free
FIG.
TO
rrcroR
sYvrtcH
Erci I'AO
\-
*'
T.F.
26-23
a.
b.
b.
d.
Drive
Putley
-
Remove
l,/8" set
screw,
which
is
Loctite.
If
difficult
to
remove, heat applied
of
the
set
screw
helps
to
loosen
the
loctite.
be
added
if new
pulley
or
set screw is used.
Fan
Housing
gqeling. Plate
-
Secured
by
four
3,/8"
nuts.
c.
d.
e.
Motor
Switch
-
External
-
Available
ffi
Testing
a.
The
notor
can
be tested
in the
shell
with harness
wiring removed.
c.
Connect
a test
jumPer
cord
to
terminals
4 arld 5 of
the
motor
switch
(riS.
I1).
A
wattage reading
should
be 140
watts
at 120
volts
-
no load.
(200
watts
with empty
drum load)
tilith motor
running,
test
for
voltage
between
I and
5
or
between
1 and
4.
This
will
test the
back contact
switch.
If
this contact
does
not close
with motor
running,
the
heat circuit
will
not
operate.
To bypass switch, connect one
leg
or test cord
to
orange
motor
lead
wire
and other
leg
of test
cord
to blue and
black rptor leads.
ttouncing
Bracket
wra
aiofr
t
a(uc
rctot
taao
oi0cc
rctoi tcao
rIG.
II
d\
o€t3
o@o
e.

-17-
If
the
insulators
are
broken, the heat
shroud must be
removed.
The
insulator retainers
are
then snapped
out
of the
shroud
and
a new
insulator
used.
The
male
element
terminal-
insulator is
located
on
the
element
side
of
the
heat
shroud. The element
must
not
touch any
metal
parts
or
have
any space which
could
cause
a
short
due to vibration.
Door
Catch
T.F.26-23
7.
Reltpve
heat shroud,
depress
molded ears
the
opening
in the front
panel.
InstaII
into the opening
until
it
"clicks"
into
and
push
out
through
new
catch
by
pushing
place.
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15

-18-
T.F.
26-23
V. TROUBLE SHOO{TING
This
section
is
a
guide
outlining
possible
failures and their
causes.
GENERAL
The following
procedure
is suggested as
a
good
service
practice
and
prevention
maintenance
fF THE DRYER IS DISASSEMBLED
FOR
ANY REASON:
I. Unplug
the unit.
2. Remove the rear
panel,
drive belt
and
drum.
3. Clean
all existing
grease
from
block
drum bearings
unless
they
are to be replaced.
4.
Clean
the
lubricant
from
the
ground
strap.
5. Replace the felt heat seals, front and
rear.
6.
Clean all lubricant
from the drum
flanges, front
and
rear.
7.
Clean drum
flanges
lightly
with
fine
grade
(250-4o0)
sand-paper
or
emery
cloth
and
wipe
clean.
8. Be sure the inside
of
the
drum is clean.
9.
Apply
a thin
coat of
silicone
grease
to
the
drum flanges,
front
and rear,
and
the
ground
strap.
10.
Vaculm
the
inside
of
the unit,
including motor, before
re-assembling.
I1.
With clean hands, re-assemble
the unit.
L2.
Run
the unit to
be
sure
the customer is satisfied
(when-
ever
possible)
before
leaving.
A.
l.totor Does Not Run
t. No
power
applied.
Be sure the
unit
was
plugged
in.
2.
Blown
Fuse/Tripped
Breaj<er
Short in Dryer. Circuit
over-
Ioaded. The dryer should
be on
a 15 amp rated circuit
by
itself
|
.-
No other appliance or
lighting
should be operated off of
the
dryer circuit.
Correct
cause
before
replacing fuse.
AL!{AYS REPLACE FUSE
WITH
ONE OF

-19-
5. Bad
Motor
or
Motor
Switch
Ref.
Section IV,
D,
#f
T.F.26-23
6.
Bad
Door
Switch
Ref.
Section IV. D,
*f
7. Lint
In
llotor
This
could
cause the
therrrc
overload
protector,
Iocated
inside
the
motor, to
cut out,
making
the motor inoperative.
B.
No Heat
NOTE:
Verify this complaint
before
changing
any components. The
real complaint
rnay be
"too
long of
drying time".
Run unit at
mid-point
in
brown
portion
of Timer
Dial for
approximately two
minutes,
then feel the
air coming out
of
the
exhaust
duct. If
the unit
is heating,
refer to
C,
this
section.
If
the unit is
not
heating,
check
the following:
l. Bad
Tirpr Ref.
Section fV, E,
*4
2. O5ren or Intermittent
Thermostat
(s)
Ref.
Section IV,
A,
*4
3.
Open
in
Heating Element
4.
Open
in Wiring
5. Bad
Motor Switch
Motor
and Switch
replaced
as
an
assembly.
C.
Too Long to
Dry
Clothes
I. Clogged Lint
Filter
Filter
must be kept
clean
maximum
drying efficiency.
Clean
after each load
is
dried.
2. Poor Air Supply Unit should be
kept
at
a
ninimum
of 8"
from
a
waII and
out of
closets
and
other
small
area when
running. Operating
close to
walls
or in small
areas allows the dryer
to cycle
its
own moisture-laden,
exhausted
air stream.

-20-
T.F.
26-23
4.
Load
Too Large
This
unit
is not
designed to
handle
a large
load
such as
washed in a full-sized
auto-
matic
washer.
5.
Too
Much
water
Retained
in
Spun,/!{rung
load
to
be
dried.
Compact
Dryer is
an
excellent
companion
to Hoover IUin-Tub
Washer
or
similar
type.
Other
types
may leave
501 to
60t more
lrater
in the clothes than these,
making
drying
time
considerably
Ionger.
6. customer
Orientation
Customer
may be expecting
entirely too much from a lI0volt
compact,
especially if
results of a
22O-volt full-
sized dryer such as at laundro-
mats
has been
experienced.
7.
Iow Operating
Voltage
The
wattage output of
the
heating
elenent is closely
related
to the supplied voltage.
8.
Intermittent
Q>eration
Check
motor to be sure
it is
completely
free of lint.
vacuun
if necessary.
o
Clogged
or
Obstructed
Blower
or
Vent Pipe
10.
Ioose
Blower
Fan
Re-position
flush
with
the
end
of
the
motor shaft, add Loctite
and
re-tighten.
NOTE:
If
this
condition
does
not
exist,
the complaint
will
probably
ber
"Noisy".
I1.
Eratic
Thermostats
Ref. Section
Iv,
A,
*4
for
testing.
Drum Does
Not
Rotate
1.
Broken or
Displaced
Belt
Ref.
Section
IV, B
D.
2.
Add Ioctite and
re-tighten.
Loose
Motor Drive
Pulley

-2L-
T.F.
26-23
3.
Frozen
Idler
Roller
4. Drum Binding
Check
Drum
Bearings for
both
wear
and
adequate
lubrication.
Replace and lubricate
worn
bearings.
Ref. Section IV,
A,
*6.
E.
Noisy Dryer
1.
Worn Drum Bearings
Ref.
Section
Iv, A,
#6
for
replacement.
2.
Bearings
Dry Clean,
then
re-Iube
with
GE G-34I-M
Silicone Grease
only.
3. Loose Blower
Fan Re-position
flush with end of
the rnotor shaft, add Loctite,
and re-tighten.
4. Binding
or
Dry Idler
Roller
5. Flat
on
Drun
Flange
This usually
produces
a
regular
thuq)ing
sound.
5. Distorted
Front
or
Rear Panel
(See
Note*)
7.
Loose or
Worn Ground
Strap
Rep1ace.
8. Skewed Drum
(See
Note*).
9. Door Gasket If bearings
show
considerable
wear, the
drun may drop
enough
to
rub
the
gasket,
sometimes
displacing
it. A squeaking
sound
is usually
produced
when
this condition
first
develops.
10.
No Damper Pad
Under
Motor Mount
This
will soretines
result
in
motor
to shell vibration.
NO|[E* A skewed
(distorted)
drum
or
distorted
front or
rear
panel
can
usually be recognized
by vibration
and
pulsating
of the shell and/or
panels.
Once
during each revolution, the
panel
would be
pushed
outward.
DEPARTMENT
731A
-
J.
CUNNINGHAM