Sears 810.89571, 810.89572 Setting Up Instructions And Parts List

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SETTING-UP INSTRUCTIONS MAINTENANCE MANUAL REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS AND PARTS LIST FOR

MOTOR CYCLE

MODEL NUMBERS 810 89571 AND 810 90572

This is the Model Number of your SEARS motor cycle. It will be found on a plate fastened do the steering head. Always mention this number when communicating with us regarding the motor cycle, or when ordering parts.

HOW TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS

All parts listed herein may be ordered through Sears, Roebuck and Co. or Simpsons-Sears Limited. When ordering parts by mail from the mail order house which serves the territory in which you live, selling prices will be furnished on request or parts will be shipped at prevailing prices and you will be billed accordingly

WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS: ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION AS SHOWN IN THIS LIST.

2. The PART NAME

1. The PART NUMBER 3. The MODEL and SERIAL NUMBER 4. The NAME of item

This list is valuable. It will assure your being able to obtain proper parts service at all times. We suggest that you keep it with your other valuable papers.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. U.S.A. SIMPSONS-SEARS, LTD. CANADA

Sears 250 SGS - 66/16

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SEARS MOTOR CYCLE

MODEL NUMBERS 810.89571 AND 810.89572

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BATTERY SERVICE INSTRUCTION for Types 6 B 7 and 6 B 8

1. Fill the battery with electrolyte of battery grade to a liquid level of 10 mm (3/8") above the separators. The specific gravity should be 1,27 - 1,28 at 20° C (70°F) For tropical climates the specific gravity should be 1,22 - 1,23 at 30° (85° F) A tropical climate is considered one in which water never freezes.
2. Allow the battery to stand for at lease two (2) hours but no more than
2. Allow the battery to stand for at lease two (2) hours but no more than five (5).
3. Connect the battery for charging, plus to plus terminal and minus to minus terminal. The charging rate should be adjusted to 0,7 A approx. It is normal, when the charging current drops at the end of the charge. Observe specific gravity of electrolyte and voltage. When they remain constant, continue charging for three (3) hours. Final voltage per cell 2,6 2,7 volts. The total charging time will be 12 15 hours as experienced. If the temperature of the electrolyte exceeds 45°C (115°F), the charge must be interrupted, until the battery is cooled down.
4. Install the clean and dry battery, check the polarity, tighten securely the hold-downs, apply a thin film of mineral grease on the terminals. LIQUID LEVEL CONTROL. The liquid level should be maintained 10 mm (3/8") above the plates after the charge. If the level drops fill in only pure distilled water. If refilling is necessary in short intervals, the charging device should be checked.

If the battery is not in use for longer periods, it should be recharged monthly with half the current as mentioned above. High-Rate Chargers should be used only for a later recharging, but not

for the first installation. In this case also the temperature of the electrolyte should never exceed 45°C (115°F).

The battery is dry charged and may be used in emergency after standing of two (2) hours. But in this case there should follow a longer driving period of several hours or the battery should be recharged after short time.

Please observe these instructions and have your battery charged regularly. A long trouble-free life will be your reward.

SPECIAL OIL

Packed with your machine you will find one litre tin of special motor oil with oil additive and a further two plastic bottles of oil additive. Use the engine oil from the tin for the first filling of the oil tank (left tank opening). For the next two oil tank fillings mix the contents of one of the bottles with additive to the motor oil and stir thoroughly. Obey instructions regarding oil quality.

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Models 810.89571 810.89572

Ref. TS 10/11-Ed. 5 Sears SGS

CORRECTION to Maintenance Manual No. 821809

Section 1 "SPECIFICATIONS"

NOTE: Ignition advance: 0.208 to 0.224 in. (5,3 to 5,7 mm) before T.D.C. on rear piston.

The torque figures for tightening bolts and screws are:

Figures with mark + are changed resp. newly added:

Engine fixing bolts	50	-	Ft.	Lb.+
Cylinder head screws	21	•	Ft.	Lb.
Primary drive sprocket	108		Ft.	Lb.
Clutch hub tightening nut	108		Ft.	Lb.
Gearbox sprocket	108		Ft.	Lb.
Swing fork shaft nut	- 43	-	Ft.	Lb.
Shock absorber joint bolt	- 43	-	Γt.	Lb.
Axle for rear and front wheel	- 43	-	Ft.	Lb.
Rear sprocket fixing screw	- 18	-	Ft.	LЪ.
Fastening screws of oil pump Max.	4,5	-	Ft.	ĻЬ.
Crankcase screws resp
Crankcase cover screws	- 6	-	Ft.	Lb.+
Brake cam fastening	- 7	-	Ft.	Lb.+

Section 2 "SETTING-UP INSTRUCTIONS"

Final Work

2. Pull throttle twist grip on handlebar and afterwards put handlebar with rubber supplement levers pointing slightly downwards on top bridge of fork (watching the "securing pin against turning"), fit fixing clamp and tighten the four bolt screws.
2a. There are two new screws at the toolbox. Use new screws for mounting the handlebar (see point 2).

4a. Fix brake cable to hand lever on R.H. half of the handlebar.

a. See under 4
b. Push brake lever on hub backward
c. See under 4
d. Release brake lever on hub so the cable covering fits into the bracket of the adjusting screw.
e. Loosen adjusting screw until the clearance to the lever is 3/4 in. Tighten the lock nut.

821822

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7a. Attention: Fill in 1 1/2 pints of motor oil. When refilling do not open the level screw, as this shows minimum level and in any case oil will overflow on proper filling. When refilling after repair (engine completely dry) fill in 1.7 pints of motor oil.
9. Screw on tail light housing (connect green to green and grey to grey cable end).
10. Mount gear shift lever as individually wanted.
11. Mount rear brake lever and adjust individually so as to achieve correct braking effect.

12. See inspection chart (page 3-8) for predelivery inspection.

Additional hint to Section 3 part 4 "Inspection and Adjustment" page 3-9 "Adjusting the oil pump":

With new oil pump the normal oil consumption at average cruising speeds (about 40 m.p.h.) is 1 pint of oil to approx. 90-100 miles. With higher speeds and much riding on full throttle, oil consumption rises to 1 pint for about 75 miles. If oil consumption is within this range, don't change oil pump adjustment.

Section 6 "REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS", Page 20,

Ignition advance: 0.208 to 0.224 in. (5.3-5.7 mm).

Page 7-5, Ref. No. 1

For the two top piston rings on the piston, we ask you to use following spare part numbers: 253.2.10.260.1 Piston ring 45 mm dia.

	TRECON	T.TUB -	+5 mm ura
253,2.10.260.3	Piston	ring,	overside	I,	45,5 mm	dia.
253.2.10.260.4	Piston	ring,	oversize	II	, 46 mm c	lia.

Page 7-5 Ref. No. 3

The pistons will be delivered complete with piston rings. We ask to order them with following spare part numbers:

253.2.10.206.0	` .	Piston	cmpl., n	normal 45	mт	dia.
253.6.10.206.0		Piston	compl.,	oversize	I 4	+5,5 mm o	lia.
253.7.10.206.0		Piston	compl.,	oversize	II.	46 mm o	lia.

Therefore following numbers are no more valuable:

253.1006.2, 253.1006.6 and 253.1006.7

Page 7-5 Ref. No. 6

Instead of 253.1015.0 read 270.1.10.015.0 Crankshaft compl.

Page 7-5 Ref. No. 18 Instead of 250.1100.0 read 270.1.11.000.0 0il Pump compl.

Page 7-15 Ref. No. 10 Instead of 250.1540.2 read 250.1.15.040.0 Air Filter compl.

821822

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Page 7-19 Ref. No. 12 and 12a Instead of 270.1.22.127.0 resp. 128.2227.0 read 270.1.227.0 Fuel cock compl.
Page 7-19 Read under Ref. No. 20 24456 Fuel pipe sleeve (for fuel cock) 2 pieces 250.2219 Fuel pipe sleeve (for fuel tank) 2 pieces (new spare part to part 2)

under Ref. No. 22 only Instead of 900.0902/07 read 253.1.22.021.0 Fuel pipe complete (with two pieces 250.2219)

Page 7-19 Raf. No. 33 Instead of 22887.1 read 900.1034 Hexagon head screw - M8 x 90 DIN 931
Page 7-19 Ref. No. 41 Instead of 900.1001 read 901.1104 Hexagon head screw - M8 x 140 DIN 931-8G
Page 7-23 Ref. No. 41 Instead of 128.2508 read 357.1.25.016.1 Rubber for foot rest
Page 7-29 Ref. No. 51 Instead of 24773 Hexagon nut M6 DIN 934 read 900.2933 Hat nut M6 DIN 1587
Page 7-31 Ref. No. 3a Instead of 901.4808 read 900.4846 Spring pin 6 x 16 DIN 1481
Page 7-33 Ref. No. 61 Instead of 050.2.6203 read 25483 Ferule
Page 7-35 Ref. No. 7 Instead of 175.4011.2 read 253.1.40.211.2 Brake operating lever
Page 7-37 Ref. No. 41 Instead of 253.2810.0 read 128.2810.0 Rear chain
Page 7-41 Ref. No. 46 Instead of 902.0743 read 250.5205.2 Cable plug
Page 7-43 Without Ref. No. Instead of 253.2.70.010.0 read 253.3.70.010.0 Set of tools complete

SUPPLEMENT:

900.0133 Container with additive-oil 900.0134 Container with motor oil SAE 50 with additive-oil

Page 7-27 Between part 21 and 25a will be mounted 253.1.21.270.1 Guide bush (sleeve) 1 piece per shock absorber

Page 7-28 and 29 One washer will be mounted at the lower bore on the support for mudguard (Part 2): 250.3025 Disc 2 pieces

Sears 250 SGS - 66/16d

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We are glad to learn that you have become owner of a

SEARS MOTORCYCLE

In more than half a century of producing bicycles and motorcycles our machines have been acknowledged international as products combining both broad experience and technology. To help this SEARS motorcycle to be your best friend, please read this rider's handbook carefully in order to become acquainted with the correct handling procedure and adjustments which are required from time to time.

If you have any questions about your motorcycle, please apply to your dealer who will be happy to assist you.

		Preface II
Section 1	SPECIFICATIONS	1 — 1
Section 2	SETTING UP INSTRUCTIONS	2 — 1
Section 3	OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE
	Part 1 Operating Tips	3 — 1
	Part 2 Controls	3 — 3
	Part 3 Riding Tips	3 — 4
	Part 4 Inspection and Adjustment	3 — 8
Section 4	WIRING DIAGRAMM	4 — 1
Section 5	TROUBLE SHOOTING	5 — 1
Section 6	REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
	Part 1 Special Tools	6 — 1
	Part 2 Engine	6 — 3
	Part 3 Chassis	6 — 13
	Part 4 Electrical Equipment	6 — 17
Section 7	SPARE PARTS LIST	7 — 1

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Section 1 SPECIFICATIONS

Engine

Number of cylinders: 1 split single-cylinder Bore: 2×1.77 in. (2×45 mm) Stroke: 3.07 in. (78 mm) Cubic capacity: 248 c.c. Compression ratio: 6.2:1 Peak performance: 16.5 HP at 5800 r.p.m. Maximum torque: 2.3 mkg at 3200 r.p.m. Ignition advance: 0.256 in. to 0.276 in. (6.5 mm to 7 mm) Spark plug: SEARS No. 60400 Spark gap of plug: 0.024 in. to 0.028 in. (0.6 to 0.7 mm) Lubrication: by oil-pump Cooling: air-cooled by wind in riding. Carburettor Puch-single throttle-slide carburettor Type P 32/1 1,28 in. (32 mm) diameter with needle jet Air filter: Wet air filter with starting disc

Main jet: No. 150 Position of needle: Clamp-spring clamped to 4^th notch from top (see "Adjusting the carburettor") Idler jet: 40 Throttle-slide: width of slit: 0,748 in. (19 mm) Idler screw: about ¹/₂ turn open

Battery-Ignition-Lighting

Voltage regulating Puch D. C generator Performance of generator: 6 V 45/60 W Battery capacity: 6 V, 7 Ah Headlamp: 6,70 in. (170 mm) light outlet Main head light: 6 V 45/40 W.

Gearbox

Transmission from engine to gearbox: 51:22 i = 2,31

Transmission in gearing 1^st gear: 22: 8 i = 2.75

2nd gear: 18:12 i = 1,5 3rd gear: 15:15 i = 1 4^th gear: 13:17 i = 0.76

Transmission from gearbox to rear wheel 46:15; i = 3,07

Total Transmission:

1 ^st gear: i == 19,5	3 ^rd gear: i	= 7,1
2 ^nd gear: i = 10,6	4 ^th gear: i	= 5,4
Clutch: Multiple-disc	clutch, friction	disks	run-

ning in oil bath

Chain

Front chain of engine: Duplex-sheet roller chain 3,8 × 5,16 in. Diameter of sheet 0,196 in. (5 mm) Number of sheets: 64 Rear chain: Roller chain ½ × ⁵/₁₆ in.; 118 rollers, 1 block, 2 connecting links

Wheels

Rim size: Drop center rim 1,85 × 16 in. (2^1/2 × 16 in. DIN 7816) Tire size: 3,00 × 16 in. front. 3,50 × 16 in. rear.

Tire pressure

Front wheel: 14,5 lb/squ. in. (1,0 atü) Rear wheel: 20 lb/squ. in. (1,4 atü) with pillion passenger 29 lb/squ. in. (2.0 atü)

Front and rear brake

Brake drum: diameter 7,08 in. (180 mm) Width of the brake lining: 1,575 in. (40 mm)

Fuel tank

Capacity 3,35 gals. (12,6 litres) of which 0,53 gals. (2 litres) are reserve fuel

Performance Data

Top speed: about 68,34 m.p.h. (110 km/h), 1 person riding upright;

Fuel consumption: about 0,70 gals. of petrol and about ¹/s pint of oil for 62,13 miles (100 km) at approximately 43,5 m.p.h.

Hill climbing capacity: with pillion passenger about 40%

Action radius: about 210 miles (340 km) with one tank filling

Measurements

Lenght 78,10 in. (1970 mm) Height 36,22 in. (920 mm) Width 24,60 in. (620 mm) Wheel distance: 52,55 in. (1345 mm) Road clearance: 5,91 in. (140 mm) Saddle height: 28,9 in. (735 mm)

Weights

Weight without fuel, toolkit, and battery 300 lbs. (136 kg).

The torque figures for tightening bolts and screws are:

Engine fixing bolts	•		•		36	ft. lb.
Cylinder head screws		• . •			21	ft. lb.
Primary drive sprocket	•	•			108	ft. Ib.
Clutch hub tightening nut .	•			•	108	ft. lb.
Gearbox sprocket 15 teeth .	•			•	108	ft. lb.
Swing fork shaft nut			•		43	ft. lb.
Shock absorber joint bolt .					43	ft. lb.
Axle for rear and front whee	1				43	ft. lb.
Rear sprocket fixing screw					18	ft. lb.

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Section 2 SETTING-UP INSTRUCTIONS

Instructions for unpacking, assembling and carrving out final operations.

Carefully follow the procedure explained hereafter for getting your motorcycle ready to start!

Opening the Crate

1. Tear the carton open on the side and pull out the wooden box with motorcycle in it.
2. With a hammer hit the upper cross beams of the wooden frame from underneath until they can be removed.
3. Also remove the side wooden brace so that the motorcycle stands unconfined on a wooden floor in front of you.

Primary Preparing Works

1. Remove the nylon cover by cutting it open. Then mount the handlebar (see point 1 "Final Work") in order to avoid damaging the bowden cable.
2. Loosen screws on both fixing clamps with 19 mm wrench but be sure to lossen the lower nuts at first to prevent a damage of the foot rest axle thread. Don't loose the screws. Now the machine can be taken off from the wooden floor.
3. When the motorcycle is taken off from the wooden floor prop up the motorcycle.
4. Open tool kit on the left hand side of the shell frame and prepare wrench 11 mm.

Final Work

1. Loosen the four bolt screws with 11 mm wrench of handlebar fixing clamp and detach the connecting link.
2. Put handlebar with rubber supplement, levers and bowden cables pointing slightly downwards in symmetrical position between handlebar fixing clamps and tighten the four bolt screws. Choose handlebar position after riding experience as individually wanted!

3. Mounting of the electrical switch.
- The electrical switch, during transport fixed to the fork, is to be mounted on the handlebar lefthand side. The fixing clamp is connected with the switch by two bolt screws which are to be tightened with a screw driver.
4. Fix clutsch cable to hand lever on l. h. half of the handlebar.
- a) First of all completely screw in hand lever adjusting screw "1" and appropriate lock nut "2" and turn until the slits of adjusting screw, lock nut and hand lever bracket "3" aline (so that the bowden cable may be inserted).
- b) Remove r. h. crankcase cover and push external clutch lever on the crankcase forward.
- c) At the same time put nipple "5" of the cable into hole on the bottom of the hand lever "4" and put cable into slits.
- d) Release clutch lever on the crankcase so the cable covering fits into the bracket of the adjusting screw.
- e) Loosen adjusting screw until the clearence of the lever is 5 mm. Tighten lock nut.

5. Attachment of the foot rests.

Fit foot rests "R" as indicated in drawing. Tighten fixing screw bolt "13" with 19 mm wrench on both foot rests.

Choose position of foot rests as individually wanted, but don't fit them too low as you would then be unable to change gear without taking the left foot from its rest!

6. Batterv.

Note! The battery is charged, but delivered without any electrolyte. Make the battery ready for service. See section 6, part 4.

7. Fill oil in gearbox.
8. The ignition key is in the tool box.

Help the "SEARS" motorcycle to work for you efficiently. We trust it will afford you great satisfaction.

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Section 3 OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE

Part 1

OPERATING TIPS

Both daily and periodic inspections should be made as this prolongs life of the motorcycle and help to prevent accidents.
Proper-attention to tightness of important parts should be given as this also helps to prevent accidents.
Warm-up the engine at low speed for about two minutes. Lubrication oil does not circulate well and carburettor does not function well when the engine is cold.
Do not race the engine unnecessarily. The engine runs at an excessive speed with full throttle at no load. This is harmful to the engine.
Start the motorcycle gently and shift gears according to the speed. High rev. number on low load is harmful to the engine.
Change gears gently by pressing or pulling the gear change lever lightly with your toe. Do not change gears roughly. Rough gear changing results in rapid wear of the shift guide plate, etc.
Do not operate the motorcycle with the air cleaner removed. Dirt and dust will be inhaled into the engine and cause rapid wear.
Remove the switch key and lock the steering head when parking. This prevents the motorcycle from being stolen and the battery from being discharged.

"Break-in" Instructions

The way of riding the vehicle and its treatment during the "Break-in" period are very important for the duration of life and economical fuel consumption.

With two-stroke engines, the power is greatly dependent on the tightness of pistons as the latter control the movement of the gas. Correct runningin of new cycles is, therefore, of vital importance. Also, with new cycles, the first 1250 miles should be covered with an additional petrol-oil mixture in the proportion of 1 part oil to 50 parts fuel or 5 cubic inches of oil to 1 gallon of fuel. The fuel should be thoroughly mixed with the oil in some clean vessel, before filling. Of course, the oil tank, too, must be filled with oil as the ordinary pump lubrication has to work at the same time. Proper running-in is achieved by very gradually increasing the strain on the engine to its peak performance after having ridden the model over a distance of about 200 miles on little gas. These initial 200 miles must be done without carrying a pillion passenger and without tackling any stiff gradient. Don't ride faster in top gear than about 40 m. p. h. Don't

either stick to riding at an even speed all the time. Change your riding speed every now and then, vary your speed. Change into lower gear when speed drops below the rate indicated for that particular gear. When riding in town-traffic, no special care in this respect need be taken.

From 200 to 600 miles a steady, moderate cruising speed should be maintained, with interposed short sprints up to half-open throttle. Increase your average speed gradually up to from 43 to 53 m.p.h. in top gear. When going uphill, ride on little gas. changing down rather than straining your engine. Give your engine a chance to cool down. From 600 to 1300 miles you may continue to keep up a fast cruising speed with interposed short speedbursts up to full throttle, avoiding at the same time riding for any length of time at maximum speed attainable. Even after having done above 1300 miles, don't all at once try to ride all out, but when speeding throttle down from time to time. At the beginning, this should be done every mile or so. With progressing running-in, these intervals may gradually become less frequent. But even when your model has finally completed its running-

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OPERATING TIPS

in period, it will be expedient — when driving at speed — to throttle down just for a short time. It is advisable to run in your model without stopping over some distances longer than 70 miles. We point out once more that too low revolutions are also unfavourable. Change speed in time, that is, from top to 3^rd at about 27 m.p.h., from 3^rd to 2^nd at about 20 m.p.h. and from 2^nd to 1^st at about 12 m.p.h.

Important!

During the period of "Break-In" don't fail to repeatedly examine all screws, bolts and nuts, in particular those holding the engine (as also those of the rear engine suspension) nor fail to perform controls, tests and lubricating just as prescribed (Service-Station). You are also earnestly advised to drain the oil from the gearbox after about 500 miles, and to rinse it with rinsing-oil and then to fill it up with fresh oil.

Fuel

The Cycle is not run on a petrol-oil mixture. The fuel and lubricating oil are kept separate, the fuel being filled into the right half of the tank and the oil into the left half.

Insure that dirt or dust not become mixed with the fuel.

Insure that water does not become mixed with the fuel.

Lubricatina oil

For engine lubrication (in the oil tank): Always use a good grade oil. Use only nondetergent oil. At temperatures over 50° F (10° C) SAE 50.

At temperatures over 50° F (10° C) 5AM 50. At temperatures from +15° F (-10° C) to 50° F (+10° C) SAE 40

At temperatures below +15° F (-10° C) SAE 30. For gearbox and telescope forks: Use heavy oil in summer, in winter a thin winter oil. Thicker oils may cause the clutch to stick or lead to stiffness in the front fork.

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Part 2

Footopered gearshift lever

Lighting switch

Lighting switch and ignition switch. a) Dimmerlight b) Highbeam 2 Hoon butten

Chocke and Tickler

Filler caps

When opening turn ¹/₃ rotations to the left.

Steering-lock

Before locking, turn handle gear to the right insert key into the cylinder of barrel locks, after this turn key to the left, and push it together with cylinder of barres lock inwards, turn key to the right and pull it off. The opening ensues in reversed order.

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PIDING TIPS

Sundry hints

Before starting a new engine, be sure that the telescope fork has been filled up with a sufficient supply of oil. For this purpose unscrew drain plug screws (slotted screws) placed at the fork of the first (fig. 1/1) and the nuts placed ad the top bridge piece (fig. 8/5). For checking the quantity of the oil contained, it will be advisable to drain off all of the oil and then re-fill again. Normal quantity of filling 5 cu in. (80 ccm) each leg. Damping, and subsequently, the softness of the springing depends on the viscosity of the oil. After having covered about 3000 miles (5000 km) drain off the oil and

fill up with fresh oil. Test oil level in enginegearbox while the cycle stands perfectly vertical: To ascertain whether there is sufficient oil, oil must escape from the opening after the oil level screw (fig. 2/1) has been unscrewed.

Entire quantity of oil contained about 1,6 pints.~ Test tire pressure (front 14,5 lbs/squ. in. = 1 at), rear wheel 20 lb/squ, in (1.4 at): with pillion nas. 29 lbs/squ. in. (2.0 at).

The battery, too, has to be filled up and charged from an outside source (battery charger! - See chapter on electric equipment).

Fig. 2

Starting the engine

Put the ignition key into the lock. Having done that, blue charging light and green control lamp of idling gear light up. If there is no green light, the idling gear is to be charged by means of gear lever (green light lights up). Open petrol tap (fig. 2/3). Three positions (fig. 3).

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Close the starter disc on the air filter (fig. 2/4). The carburettor is provided with a special starter carburettor. The twist grip is turned to full throttle position, then the tickler (fig. 2/5) on the float housing is repeatedly depressed at short intervals, until petrol flows over the opening of the chamber containing starting petrol (fig. 9/1). In summer it is unnecessary to close the starter disc. It suffices to depress the tickler a few times, and there is no need for the fuel to overflow

Open the twist grip ¹/₄ at most before kick-starting. Depress the kickstarter smartly,

Let the engine warm up a little at a moderate number of revolutions, particularly in winter. If there is a tendency to refuse to fire or to stall, briefly depress the tickler button and open the starter disc, after the engine has got warm.

A hot engine will start without using the tickler or closing the starter disc with ¹/₄ gas at most. Should the engine have cooled down already and fail to start, the tickler can be operated briefly again. Use of the tickler with a hot engine involves the danger of getting too fat a mixture. If the carburettor has been flooded with the engine hot, the mixture is much too fat and the engine will not start. In such a case start with full throttle repeatedly, until the engine is running.

Important! Before kickstarting: don't start the engine with the ignition switched off.

Stopping the engine

Stop the engine by taking out the ignition. Always switch off the ignition. Then turn off the petrol tap. Otherwise, if the cycle is standing on an incline or resting sideways, the carburettor may overflow, which will lead to starting difficulties (flooding the engine). In this case the overflown petrol should be drained off by the same screw (fig. 11/1) situated in the bottom of the crankcase.

The stand is put down with the left foot. Then, with your right foot, step smartly on the stand shoe, at the same time drawing the maschine upwards and backwards upon both legs.

Riding and gear changing

Operating of gear lever: Push foot gear lever (fig. 2/2) down for lower (slower) gears, draw upwards for higher (faster) gears. Always declutch well before changing gear! Gear shifts work easily, don't force your change speed lever.

Putting gears into neutral: Press the gear lever down until you feel it to be free: the 1^st gear is then in. Then with the point of your toe, slowly draw upwards, until engagement in neutral is felt. Neutral should not be engaged between 2^nd and 3^rd or 3^rd and top gears. Before changing down, do not turn off gas intirely. After starting, change into 2^nd at about 10--12 m.p.h., into 3^rd at about 30 m.p.h. The flexibility of the engine is such that it can bi run slowly even in top and the accelera-

tion is good when the throttle is opened. Below 25 m.p.h., however it is not advisable to run all the time in top and the third gear may be used permanently without hesitation for lower cruising speeds. For instance in town-traffic, acceleration of up to 45 m.p.h. are permissable in 3^rd gear. although this speed should not be maintained in 3rd for any length of time. The gear ratios have been selected for sporting rides. Thus to obtain high average speed in hilly country, the difference of ratio between top and 3rd gear is not too great. On mountain roads when the speed has dropped to some 40 mph change down to 3^rd. This applies above all to sporting riders. The excellent pull of the engine allows of outstanding hill climbing performance even at low engine revs. but the speed will be lower than when a timely changedown has been effected.

Brakes

Braking effect and braking reliability are particularly good with excles with rear wheel springing as the wheels do not give in braking. Make it your rule always to use both brakes. Try it and you will get used to it! You need not hesitate or be nervous to apply the front wheel brake! Its effect is even greater than that of the rear brake on account of the rising load on the wheel. Only when the road is slippery or icy you will have to be careful. Always brake your mount when approaching a bend. Braking on a bend increases the likelihood of a dangerous skid. Vilolent and sudden braking on slipperv bends, particularly with the front wheel brake, is dangerous. You get less braking effect with the wheels locked and the risk of skidding is greater. The brakes are therefore to be "felt" rather then forced. The brakes are soft and very efficient, which greatly facilitates good braking.

Removal of wheels

Front wheel: Slacken the clamp screw of the righthand fork lug (fig. 4/1). Unhook the brake cable (fig. 1/2). Unscrew stub axle (fig. 4/2). While refit-

Fig. 4 🤇

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ting, insert the bolt of the brake plate in the hook of the spring fork (fig. 1/3) and then screw up the stub axle. Drive fork down on the springs several

times before tightening the clamp screw on the right-hand fork lug. Rear wheel: Unhook brake rigging, after having loosened winged nut (fig. 5/1). Unscrew stub axle by means of spark plug wrench. Pull out the intermediate part left-hand (fig. 5/2) — representing brake-stop — and pull the carrier of brake-drum from the flexible coupling. Incline the machine and remove the wheel from under the mud-guard. The hinged part of the rear wheel mud-guard can be taken off by unscrewing it. This makes it possible to remove the rear wheel without inclining the model as in a side car model. Grease stub axle when reassembling.

Tire fitting (fig. 6)

To take out a tire first unscrew dust cap of valve, depress valve needle until the air is entirely released, unscrew nut on rim and push out the valve. The drop center rims used derive their name from the groove in their center. The cable-edges of the straight-sided tires can best be removed from the rim by placing a foot upon the rim on the side opposite to the valve, thus having the weight of one's body press the steel cable edges of the tire

Fig. 6

down into the dropped center or groove of the rim. This action will produce enough space on the valve side of the cover to enable you to insert a tire lever and slip the cable-edge of the tire over

the edge of the rim. Now the edge of the tire which has been slipped over the edge of the rim has to be held in place with the lever, while by means of a second lever the remaining circumference of the tire has to, be pulled over the rim edge by slipping the second lever, which has also been inserted between tire edge and the edge of the rim, along the entire remaining circumference of the tire. This done, the inner tube can be removed. When refitting, the inner tube, having been slightly inflated and well powdered with talcum, is inserted into the cover. While doing so, one has to be very careful

Fig. 7

not to pinch or squeeze the inner tube or twist it unduly and has to see to it that the protective ribbon, which is to protect the tube from the nipples of the spokes, evenly covers the bottom of the groove of the rim. When inserting the wheels, proceed in reversed order of operations as described above. Particular care has to be taken to get the correct chain tension and wheel alignment (see chapter on chain tensioning) as well as to fix and assemble the various removable parts most accurately.

Steering damper

On bad roads and at speed, it is advisable to tighten the steering damper (fig. 8/1) to a moderate degree. Since every driver wants the damping to suit his own requirements, the most suitable

Fig. 8

Page 18

tension is found out by trial. The outstanding roadholding qualities of Model 250 allows of riding under all conditions with the damper left slack. Thus there is no need to tighten it up too much. It must, however, neither be left too loose!

Riding hints

Fuel consumption and wear of the cycle are largely dependent on how the motorcycle is being used. High speeds necessarily mean high consumption. Much variation of speed. constantly turning the twist grin sharp braking on bends increase wear and consumption with any vehicle. The most favourable consumption figures are obtained with a uniform speed. The fuel and oil consumption of our models are extremely low, and the rider should not unnecessarily increase it by bad riding. Letting in the clutch with a jerk, powerful braking, wrenching at the twist grip at lower engine speeds, brisk gear changing, possibly without proper declutching or regard to engine revs. inconsiderate riding on the worst roads; all these are additional stresses which can only add to the wear. A good rider never jerks his cycle and his gear change proclaims itself only by the gradually changing revolutions of the engine.

IMPORTANT HINTS

The engine knocks

Knocking (pinking) is a metallic ringing sound in the engine, sometimes irregular but mostly synchronized with the firing stroke. The cause of this too rapid (detonating) combustion of the mixture is a fuel too poor in anti-knock quality. The anti-knock value of fuels is dependent on their octane number — the higher the latter, the greater the freedom from knocking.

Standard brand fuels at the present time are approximately octane 72. With these, the 250 c.c. engine runs without knocking, except perhaps briefly when opening out the throttle. Fuels not sufficiently knock-free are bad for the engine and should not be used. If a knocking fuel must be used in case of no other being available, ride carefully and not above average speeds. Permanent knocking must be prevented. Such preventatives are: Advance ignition not to exceed about 0,256 in. (6,5 mm). Rich mixture: If the engine should knock up to half throttle screw up screw for air regulating; lift jet needle, above half throttle fit

larger main jet. Reduce compression ratio by fitting two cylinder head gaskets.

All these preventatives against knocking tend to diminish performance and to raise consumption. However, this trouble inherent to unsuitable fuels, must be accepted when using them.

Adjusting the carburettor

For this work see section 6 part 2.

Spark plua

There is no such thing as a standard plug which will suit all types of engines equally well. Manufacturers of plugs therefore produce a diversity of types to meet the working conditions of various types of engines.

Use SEARS-plugs only (No. 60400)! in case you have none with you, only such plugs should be used as are signified by their makers as suitable for air-cooled sports engines. Plugs for water cooled engines are unsuitable.

We would particularly stress the fact unsuitable plugs, with too low resistance to overheating, and those which start to glow, may damage the engine. Plugs for sport engines are sometimes known as "cold" plugs, since they do not become too hot even with hot engines.

In case of doubt, it is better to employ a plug which is too "cold", which may perhaps oil up sometimes when running slowly but cannot damage the engine in any way.

It is advisable to screw up the plugs by hand as tightly as possible, before using a wrench to avoid damage to the thread.

Plugs made to be dismantled must not be put into a vice, but taken to pieces with a box spanner only.

Muffler (Silencer)

With two-stroke engines, the silencer is not an unavoidable nuisance, but an important element in the control of the gas flow through the engine. The engine and silencer of our cycles are designed to cooperate most efficiently with one another and to the best advantage.

Any alteration in the silencer spoils the tuning and unfavourably effects performance and consumption.

The inside of the silencer should be cleaned from time to time as obstructions have an unfavourable influence.

Page 19

INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT

Daily Inspection

Inspect the motorcycle yourself. Prober inspection prolongs the life of the motorcycle.

1. Does steering handle operate lightly?
2. Is front brake lever play ³/₄"?
3. Is rear brake pedal travel ⁸/4"?
4. Does clutch work properly?
5. Do front and rear cushions work properly?

6. Do head light, tail light, and stop light turn on?

7. Does horn sound properly?
8. Is engine oil up to full mark on gauge?

9. Does fuel tank contain sufficient gasoline?

10. Does oil tank contain sufficient oil?
11. Is front tire pressure correct?
12. Is rear tire pressure correct?
13. Is colour of exhaust gas proper?

EDELIVERY PECTION 2)	BI	REAK- AFTEF	IN {	А	ALW FTER	AYS EVER	Y	O Inspection which the rider can make Inspektion possibly carried out at dealers
PRI	AS \| 500 \| 1500 \| 3000		3000	500	1500	3000	6000	ITEMS
	\|		0			•	۲	1 Clean (decarbonize) cylinder and exhaust assembly
			۲			۵	•	2 Clean spark plug
•		•	۲		0	0	۲	3 Clean and oil air filter 3)
	٠					۲	•	4 Clean fuel strainer and connecting screws for oil pipe
•	•		۲				۵	5 Clean carburetor and adjust the engine idling
	•	۲	۲		0	۲	۲	6 Adjust clutch
	•	٩	۲			۲	•	7 Adjust ignition timing
								8 Fill oil tank and bleed 4) the oil pipe
0		0	•	0	0		۲	9 Chek oil pump setting
							0	10 Chek brake linings
•		•				•		11 Adjust front brake
•			•		-	۲	۲	12 Adjust rear brake
	-	-	-		-[	-	0	13 Check chain and engine sprocket
1	•		۲	0	· 0	6	•	14 Adjust and lubricate drive chain
		-					٥	15 Lubricate hobs
		-			-		۲	16 Lubricate steering bearing
	-	-						17 Fill up telescopic fork oil
				-			0	18 Change telescopic fork oil
	-	-	-	-			0	19 Change shock absorber oil
								20 Inspect tightness of bolts and nuts
	•		6	0	0	6	0	21 Inspect tightness of cylinder head screws
	•	•	0	-	-	0	0	22 Lubricate chassis
	•		•	0	0	•	•	23 Lubricate control cables
					_	6		24 Check motor oil in gearbox
			_		-1	•••	•	25 Change motor oil in gearbox 5)
•		-\|			-		\|	26 Fill and load battery
	-[					•		27 Check battery acid
•	•	•	•	0	0	٥		28 Inspect lighting system, charging control and carbon brushes
0						•	•	29 Inspect horn sound
			0	0	0	•		30 Check tyre pressure
			•	-	-	0		31 Clean and lubricate drive chain

2) At mail orders the predelivery inspection is not executed — take care that this inspection is done. 3) Every 500 miles on extremely dusty conditions. 4) Every time when oil tanks is empty; THEREFORE BE CAREFUL TANK WILL NOT BE EMPTY. 5) At least twice a year.

Page 20

Maintenance

Proper attention to the mount together with proper handling and regular servicing assures constant reliability.

Attention covers the lubrication of the whole machine checking, adjusting and cleaning. Those who value the appearance of their cycle, however, will not neglect the outside either.

Lubrication

Engine lubrication is provided by on oil pump driven by the engine, the regulating member of which is coupled with the throttle twist grip, its action depending on the engine revolutions and load.

Use suitable lubrication oil (see chapter on lubricating oil). While running in your cycle also use petroil-oil mixture (see "Running-in").

Adjusting the oil pump

To check the setting, the small flange on the engine casing (fig. 9/1) is taken off. The fixed red mark on the casing (fig. 9/2) and the marks of the movable white scale (fig. 9/3) will then be seen. The oilpump is properly adjusted when, with the twist grip at full throttle, these marks coincide. This standard setting is also used during running-in.

Only after running-in has been completed, should the setting be altered if necessary. With average cruising speeds (about 40 m.p.h.) the normal oil consumption is 1 pint of oil to approx. 175 miles. With higher speeds and much riding on full throttle, oil consumption rises to 1 pint for about 150 miles. Even with very good lubricating oil, the oil pump should not be set for appreciably less than the quantities mentioned. To change the fresh oil feed, the twist grip is turned to full throttle position and after loosening the lock nut the setting screw of the bowden wire of the oil pump (fig. 9/4) is adjusted. When the screw is unfastened

Fig. 9

the movable white scale mores and the + (plus) mark on it shifts towards the fixed setting mark in the casing while the oil feed is increased.

Conversely, screwing up the setting screw decreases the oil feed and the — (minus) mark on the scale moves towards the fixed setting mark.

Do not set consumption to anything above 1 pint of oil to 175 miles at average speed (that is 1400 miles per 1 gal, oil).

Lubrication of gearbox

This is provided by pouring oil into the gearbox through the opening, after removing plug screws. The normal content is about 700 c.c. (about one and a half pint). On the left hand crankcase cover there

Fig. 10

is an oil level indicator screw (fig. 2/1). Oil is filled into the gearbox until, after removing the oil level screw, oil begins to overflow from the opening. In summer use heavy engine oil; in winter with temperatures below freezing point, use thin winter oil. Heavy oils in winter may cause the clutch to stick and make gear changing hard. Change the oil after the first 500 miles. After about 4000 miles, check the oil level by unscrewing the oil level screw. If no oil issues, refill until it does. Change the oil after obout 6000 miles. With the engine hot, the drain screw on the clutch housing (fig. 10/2) and the one under the gearbox with oblique seat (fig. 10/3) are unscrewed until all the oil has been drained. Flushing out the gears with thin flushing oil is recommended. About one pint of flushing oil is poured in, the engine started up, top gear engaged and the machine allowed to run on the stand for a short time. The flushing oil is then drained off and the gearbox filled up with fresh oil as prescribed. By this charge of fresh oil the gear chain of the engine, the clutch, the starter and the gear change mechanism are lubricated simultaneously.

Page 21

Telescope front fork

Each leg of the fork is filled with about ¹/₆ pint of oil. After 4000 miles, this oil is drained off (drain screw below on the fork lug, fig. 1/1). Fill up with fresh oil (¹/₆ pint each fork) after removing upper plug screw. The same oil is used as for the gearbox, in summer heavy engine oil, in winter thin winter oil.

If oil leaks from the fork, have the packing rings put right as soon as possible (renew them if defective).

Swing fork rear wheel springing

Lubricate axle of swing fork by means of a grease gun after every 1800 miles (1 nipple fig. 5/3). The sliding inner parts of the spring unit are greased by the damper oil.

Oil change of spring unit:

Change oil after the first 3000 miles and whenever damping decreases. If both bottom securing worm screws (fig. 5/4), the top joint bolts and the bottom joint bolts (fig. 5/5) have been removed, the spring unit can be taken off. Dismantle damper cylinder containing the oil and have oil changed. Mind that the quantity of damper oil is correct, that is to say 4⁷/₈ cu. in. (80 c.c.). A decrease in damping can easily be ascertained by giving the rear mud guard a hearty push down, while watching whether the swing forks come to rest at once (well damped) or whether they continue swinging up and down several times (badly damped).

Dismantling the damping cylinder (see Repair Instructions)

Other parts to be lubricated:

Nipples to be lubricated with the gun are arranged as follows: One nipple on the outer casing for the bowden wire of the clutch left-hand side at the bottom of the crankcase (fig. 2/6). One nipple on the shaft of the foot brake pedal (fig. 5/6). One nipple on the intermediate lever of the brake rigging (fig. 5/7). Have these nipples supplied by four or five shots of the gun; every 1500 miles one nipple each on the brake shaft bearing of the front and rear wheels (fig. 1/4 and 5/8): every 1500 miles. 1 or 2 shots of the grease gun, not more, to avoid grease getting on the brake shoes. Moreover, a few drops of engine oil to be applied every 1500 miles to the bearings of the controls on the handle bar, the joint of the starter lever (fig. 10/4), the joints of the stand, the joint of the foot brake rod, the lower connection of the hand brake bowden wire on the brake lever of the front brake as well as on the open cable (fig. 1/5) and the spring eyes of the saddle which become accessible when the latter is pressed down into the hollow of the tank. Every time a wheel is taken off, the stub axles should be greased (grease gun lubricant). Every time after charging the battery, clean and grease terminals.

Chains

As a matter of principle, chains should never be allowed to run dry and must always be correctly tensioned. For chain tensioning see chapter "Adjustments". Before starting to ride always have a look through the control gap at the chain and lubricate it with oil if necessary. Any not too thin oil is suitable for this purpose. If nothing else is available, oil can be taken from the tank of the machine. Dry chains become stiff and get tensioned by themselves and then rapid wear is unavoidable. Every 1500 miles remove the chain and wash it thoroughly in petrol. followed by a bath of hot liquid chain grease Excess grease is wiped off after cooling. In refitting the chain, the spring clip of the connecting link should always be placed with the closed end in front and towards the direction in which the chain moves (fig. 7).

Contact-breaker of the dynamo

After 1500 miles, the cover of the dynamo must be removed and the lubricating pad of the contactbreaker greased with heat-resistant grease. At the same time, check the contact-breaker (see chapter "Electrical Equipment").

Twist grip

Turn back the outer end of the rubber sleeve, unscrew the slotted head screw under the bore of the twist grip tube, pull off end cap and grip. Grease interior parts thoroughly.

Care of tires

Maintenance of the tire pressure as prescribed (see chapter "Specification") is most essential to assuring long life of the tires. If a tire pressure gauge is not available, it is better to run on tires pumped hard than on too little pressure. With slack tires, the wear is greatly increased. The springing of the cycle guarantees comfortable riding even with hard tires. Hard braking increases wear.

Damage to the tread should be repaired by vulcanising because if water is allowed to penetrate through any slits in the outer covers it is bound to ruin the tires.

Checking, Adjusting, Cleaning

Every 500 miles

Check battery acid, top up with distilled water, if plates are not fully immersed (see chapter "Electrical Equipment").

Chain Tension

Checking with the machine loaded by the rider! The section of the chain must show the usual sag of about ,394 in. (10 mm), that is to say, you must be able to move the chain vertically up and down for about ,784 in. (20 mm). Adjust chain tension after partly unscrewing the left and right nuts of clamp sleeve (fig. 5/9) by giving equal turns to both ten-

Page 22

OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE

sioning screws (fig. 5/10). If the wheel is screwed up when in a slantwise position, that is, when alignment is incorrect, this will cause rapid wear of the chain and sprockets. Having tensioned your chain and tested whether or not the chain is too tight in one place, the sag mentioned above must be in evidence even in the tightest part of the chain.

Clutch

Fig. 11

The clutch hand lever must, as usual, have a little play. If no play at all is observed, or if the play, measured at the end of the hand lever, exceeds about ,472 in. (12 mm), adjustment is required. This is done by turning the setting screw (fig. 11/3 and 11/1) behind the dynamo in the middle of the cover plate. Tightening this screw decreases the play of the clutch hand lever. If the clutch cable is much stretched it may be found that this screw cannot be screwed up any more. In such a case the set screw (fig. 11/1) is loosened by some 3 turns and the clutch cable adjusted by means of the setscrew (fig. 2/7) placed on the left in front of the engine block. While doing this, the hexagon head of the screw must be held and only the nut need be turned. Fine adjustment is now performed by means of the set-screw (fig. 11/1).

Brake adjustment

The hand and foot brake levers must also have a slight play. The front wheel brake is set by means

of the wing nut (fig. 1/7) situated on the left hand fork. Unscrewing this nut causes a decrease of the play. First slacken the lock nut (fig. 1/8); the foot brake is set by the wing nut on the foot-brake lever (fig. 5/1). Turning it clockwise (seen from the front) reduces the play.

Every 1500 miles

Clean the air filter (on dusty and sandy roads every 500 miles). Remove filter after partly unscrewing the retaining screw, rinse by immersion in petrol, then condition the filter cloth by dipping in engine oil and allow excess oil to drain off. Clean spark plug electrodes with a wire brush. If necessary, bend over the side electrode so that the gap is ,024 in. to, ,028 in. using a spark gap gauge. Check up the contact breaker in the generator when greasing the lubricating pad (see "Electrical Equipment").

Every 3000 miles

Check the ignition setting and also the generator (see chapter "Electrical Equipment"). Clean the carburettor (see chapter "Carburettor").

Check steering play

If there is any play, with the front wheel of the raised cycle — especially in a direction transverse to the pivoting axle — when the steering main bearing is tested, the latter will have to be adjusted. To do so, proceed as follows. Loosen clamp screw (fig. 8/2) and slacken carefully upper lock nut (fig. 8/3), tension the lower setting nut (fig. 8/4) — it has normal righthand thread — until play has disappeared almost entirely. It is dangerous to screw up the main bearing too tight and for this reason, leave slight play. Screw up clamp screw. Hold the lower setting nut and tighten the upper.

Adjusting the twist grip

The smaller of the two slotted screws on the inner end is provided for setting the resistance of the twist grip. Set the resistance, so that the twist grip does not move back of itself.

Adjusting the headlamp

This adjustment can best be made at night on a straight level road. Slacken the two fixing screws in the headlamp bracket and, while seated with a pillion rider on the machine, that is, with the normal load on the cycle, adjust the headlamp in such manner that the beam strikes the road about 262 ft. ahead. Then tighten up the fixing screws again.

Cleaning

When washing down the machine with a hose, the jet of water should be kept away from the following parts: Generator, carburettor, space between brake drum and carrier plate, space between wheel hub and cover plate, steering head bearing, speedometer. If petrol or paraffin is used for cleaning, see

Page 23

that it does not get into the brakes as the brake linings may become defective.

Electrical Equipment

For this work see section 6, part 4.

O V E R H A U L I N G

General

The work described can be carried out by any rider who is technically minded. Small manipulations which would be obvious to the latter are not therefore described in detail. Those not versed in such work had better leave it to an expert. Thoroughness and cleanliness should be the principles observed in overhauling.

Decarbonising the engine

Residues from combustion (oil-carbon) mainly accumulate in the exhaust ports, restricting the opening and reducing the performance. After about 4000 miles, the exhaust pipe is removed and a pocket torch used to see how far the exhaust ports are coked. If the clear opening is still approximately rectangular in shape, carbonisation is still unimportant, but if the form of the opening is irregular it should be decarbonised. Reduced engine performance is likewise a symptom of coked-up exhaust ports. When decarbonising proceed as follows: Unscrew bolts holding down cylinder head (fig. 12/1)

Fig. 12

with care (use box spanner) and take down gasket. Unscrew union of exhaust pipes and turn pipes (12/2) away (from engine) so that they allow of free access to the engine. Take off carburettor (12/3). When removing the cylinder the tank has to be lifted. The front part of the tank is lifted and kept in this position by the handle of a hammer, which is placed on the edge of the steering damper. For this purpose remove the front fixing bolt first and then rear fixing bolt. The oil hose is disconnected from the tank by removing the oil nipple. The oil is either drained off or prevented from leaking by inserting a suitable screw at once (fig. 12/4). As the fuel connecting hose allows of this movement it need not be taken off.

Lift off the cylinder. Clean exhaust ports (by means of a scraper or screw driver). Scrape carbon deposit from the top of piston or piston head and clean interior of cylinder head. Test piston rings. When reassembling, take care not to damage the cylinder head gasket and fit it properly. The fixing bolts of the cylinder head should be screwed up crosswise. Removal of the cylinder becomes easier, if the tank is entirely removed. Then the fuel has to be drained off. Before refitting the tank, the cable distributor fixed to the top tube of the frame should be oiled.

Cleaning the mufflers

For the purpose of cleaning it is not necessary to remove the muffler complete, it will do to take out the inner member of the silencer. First loosen nut of fixing screw for interior parts (fig. 5/11) and pull out screw. After having removed slotted screw, take out inner member (5/12). The separation of the two halves of the interior parts is done by unscrewing the two connecting screws. Now all the spaces in which the expansion of the gas takes place are accessible and can easily be cleaned. Change asbestos twine if ruined. Clean steel wool in petrol. Assembling in reversed order.

We urgently warn against changing the mufflers or removing some of the interior parts, as this operation would cause a drop in performance of the engine as well as an increase of fuel consumption. On no account will you obtain an increase of performance, as is sometimes erroneously believed.

Cleaning the carburettor (fig. 20 of "Repair Instructions")

Loosen clamp (fig. 9/5) of the carburettor and take off the latter. Unscrew fixing nut (6) of the float chamber and take off the latter. Unscrew the needle jet (7) together with the main jet (4). Unscrew the cover of the float chamber (8) and take out of the float (9). Wash all parts in petrol. Blow through the bore of the main jet (4).

Cleaning the idling jet.

Unscrew idling jet (10). Blow through the bore. Refrain from forcibly tightening the idling jet as this may damage it, but screw up well. Before re-

Page 24

fitting, close the throttle twist grip so that the jet needle is visible in the lower part of the carburettor. Push the needle jet (7) with main jet on to the jet needle (11) and then only start to put parts in place and to tighten threads. Before putting on the float housing cover, insert the float needle (12) in the guide of the cover (8). Finally, the petrol pipe, the tap and its filter are to be cleaned. The tap must be unscrewed for this purpose.

Electrical equipment

Everything we need to know regarding servicing

of the electrical equipment is quoted under the appropriate heading (see "Repair Instructions").

Overhauling the brakes

When the wheels have been removed, the brake plates together with the brake shoes can be taken out of the brake drum.

Never use petrol or paraffin on the brake linings!

If the rivets of the brake linings are worn down the lining should be renewed. This work should be done by an expert motor mechanic.

Page 25

Section 4 WIRING DIAGRAM

1 Head lamp, bulb 6 V, 45/40 W
2 Combined switch, control lamps bulb 6 V, 0,6 W tubular bulb 6 V, 3W
3 Dimmer switch
4 Horn
5 Highbeam headlight indicator

6 Generator

7 Ignition coils
8 Spark plugs
9 Stop light switch
10 Battery 6 V, 7 Ah
11 Rear- and stop light bulb 6 V, 5/18 W

Page 26

Section 5 TROUBLE SHOOTING

As long as operating and maintenance instructions are closely observed, there is no reason for troubles to be expected. If however troubles occur, it is of supreme importance to locate an overcome the trouble immediately in order to prevent more costly damages.

more cosily damages. Inadequate handling in case of defect must be avoided at any rate. Consult in time a reliable workshop. For all requests for information and orders of spare parts it is indispensable to quote the characteristic number of the vehicle. Here after are given some hints for the loscalization and renair of some defects

Trouble	Cause	Remedy
Engine does not start	Operating error (fuel cock closed) defective ignition i. e. spark too weak, misfires	First remedy error, operate starting aid, open fuel cock, refuel. Check plug for spark. Detach igni- tion wire from plug, hold it at about 0.5 cm distance from zentral electro- de and crank the engine. Spark good: Inspect fuel feed and carburettor (see below). Spark insufficient: Check spark upon cylinder cover. Hold ignition wire at about 0.5 cm distance from earth (e. g. cylinder cover), crank the engine. Spark good: Inspect sparkplug gap, reset. Spark insufficient: Inspect breaker point gap, contact break points, abble constitution
	Fuel supply interrupted.	By operating the tickler, check car- burettor for fuel. No fuel in carbu- rettor: Repair float needle and/or fuel supply.
Engine does not start	Short-circuiting button jammed resp. ignition key no contact.	Set right.
	Vehicle bent or fallen over with open fuel cock.	Start with throttle wide open. If necessary, open drain plug (crank- case bottom) and drain the necessary amount of fuel.
	Trickler or starting aid operated with warm en- gine, engine drowned.	Remedy as above.
Engine produces a few sparks before stopping	Fuel supply partly or entirely interrupted.	If there is no operating error (see above), check float chamber for fuel or jets for dirt or water. Inspect fuel supply to carburettor by pulling the fuel line from carburettor. In this way check lines, filters etc. for cloggings by proceding in the direc- tion towards the fuel tank.
Engine starts, but kicks back	Ignition too much advanced.	Reset ignition timing.
difficultly from could	Electrical equipment: Spark-plug gap too wide. Thermal value of spark-plug to high. Carburettor: Jets clogged, starting aid not operated.	For nominal value and remedy see Specifications.
difficultly in very frosty weather	The colder it is, the harder the engine starts.	Use winter grade oil of high quality (in gearbox), which facilitates cran- king.
		Items to be observed for starting. Operate the starting aid, operate the tickler, open the throttle by ¹ /s. If engine starts, let it warm up at low speed; do not open throttle completely before operating tempe- rature has been reached. Push back starting aid as soon as possible.
Engine starts, but difficult- ly from warm	Mixture too rich because of exaggerated use of starting aid or tickler.	Open throttle completely during starting process.
Engine runs, but misfires, fires back, stops	Lack of fuel in car- burettor or tank, fuel cock closed, fuel feed	Remedy the respective cause.

Page 27

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Trouble	Cause	Remedy
stops when throttle is being opened	Main jet clogged, water before main jet.	Remedy as above.
irregulary with misfiring	Ignition misfires due to incorrect working of contact breaker elec- trodes shortcircuited by foreign body or oil car- bon, spark-plug gap too wide e. g. owing to ex- cessive wear of plug electrodes, spark-plug carbonized or oily or under lead tarnish (tracking current along insulator), insulator cracked e. g. owing to incandescent ignition (sparkover in the plug), ignition lead loose, broken, ignition lead with accidental ground.	For repair see respective section.
Engine runs, butoutput insufficient	Engine misfires induc- tion and compression bad, mixture too rich or too lean, ignition point improper, exhaust blocked, engine carbo- nized, crankcase oil seal rings leaky, breather screw loose.	For repair see respective sections.
runs hot after a while	Improper ignition timing, insufficient lub- rication, exhaust blocked, engine carbo- nized, cooling air insuf- ficient due to dirt on cooling ribs.	Adjust ignition, clean the engine.
consumes too much carburettor reports (backfires)	Starting aid working all the time, fuel consump- tion due to leakage in pipes, carburettor floo- ding (float valve leaky). When engine hot: Plug too hot, preignition due to combustion products upon plug or in combus-	For repair see respective sections.
knoeks, pinks	Improper fuel (insuffi- cient knockresistance), too much spark advance. Mechanical causes: Bigend bearing, crank- shaft bearing, gudgeon pin worn out, too much piston play.	For repair see respective.
hisses	Insulator or plug bro- ken, plug insufficiently tightened, plug sealing or faying surface of cylinder cover defective, breather screw not tightened.	Remedy the respective cause or con- sult workshop.
Engine stops by itself: Gradually after misfiring	Insufficient fuel fee due to gas bubbles, water or dirt in carburettor, plug carbonized, oily.	Remedy as above.
suddenly	Fuel tank empty, fuel feed interrupted, jets clogged. Misfires owing to interruption or short circuit.	Remedy as above.
Engine does not stop when switched off, but goes on running regularly	Plug is not switched off because shortcirculating button (resp. ignition switch) defective.	Shut off fuel cock, repair button (switch).
Carburettor fire	Backfiring in the car- burettor owing to too lean mixture, handling with open fire.	- If fuel cock accessible shut fuel supply and open throttle fully so as to empty the carburettor. Use spe- cial extinguisher, choke flames by

Page 28

Section 6 REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS

Part 1

SPECIAL TOOLS

Loosing (a) and tightening (b) of driving sprocket

Pulling off the driving sprocket

Pressing out the roller bearing

Page 29

Mounting the crankshaft

Measuring of axial play

Adjusting the ignition timing

Adjusting the regulator

Adjusting steering play

Loosening of union nut

Spoking in

Oil filling — into telescopic fork

Engine assembly stand

Page 30

Part 2

ENGINE

DISMANTLING OUT OF FRAME

1. Loosen battery clamp screw. This disconnects battery from ground.
2. Loosen clamp screw of foot brake lever and take off brake lever.
3. Remove crankcase cover on the right-hand side after unscrewing the three retaining screws.
4. Turn rear wheel until chain master link appears. Remove master link, lift chain from gearbox sprocket, replace master link.
5. Screw adjusting screw of clutch lever (fig. 2/1) at engine block so far out that the clutch lever can be taken out of its guide, unhitch cable from slit in clutch lever. (Do not lose slit nipple!)
6. Remove cover for generator, disconnect generator cable from connection plate and pull it out of generator housing.
7. Unscrew nuts of upper rear engine mounting screw, lift fairing plate fromscrew ing cover of carburettor housing, remove throttle piston and cover from Bowden cable.
8. Loosen mounting screw of flexible speedometer drive and remove it together with clamp of generator cables (fig. 1/5), pull out flexible speedometer drive.
Loosen shackle of carburettor and pull off carburettor, pull out throttle piston after unscrewend, unscrew slotted screw on the opposite side of the frame, remove fairing plate.
10. Pull plug cable from spark plug.
11. Undo the three cable straps holding Bowden cables and oil hose together, unscrew connecting screw of oil hose from engine block and pull it out, put open hose end quickly into filling hole of oil tank (fig. 1/1).
12. Unscrew nuts at exhaust pipe flanges (box wrench!), loosen clamp at tube supporting foot rests and remove exhaust pipes.
13. Unscrew nut of forward mounting screw of fuel tank and pull out screw (be careful not to lose spacers), unscrew lock nut and nut of rear fuel tank attachment and knock out screw lightly, until holding washers release the tongues of the tank, so that the tank can be raised (fig. 1/2). Fix tank in raised position by pushing under it a hammer or wooden wedge that rests on the

Fig. 1: Chassis after removal of engine

1 Oil hose put into filling hole
2 Fuel tank raised
3 Connecting hose
5 Clamp of generator cables
6 Clamp of guide tube of clutch cable

hand wheel of the steering damper. The connecting hose (fig. 1/3) permitts this movement, so there is no need of draining off the fuel. However, the engine is more easily accessible if the fuel tank is removed completely. For this purpose, drain off fuel and remove connecting hose (fig. 1/3).

14. Detach Bowden cable for oil pump from lever on upper frame support (fig. 1/4).
15. Unscrew lock nut of engine mounting screw (top, front), remove clamp of guide tube for clutch cable (fig. 1/6), pull guide tube out of crankcase.
16. Unscrew nuts of the engine mounting screws, pull out screws, remove both tongues of forward engine support.
17. Raise front part of engine block slightly so that rear attachment becomes free, lift engine out

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Fig. 2: Engine block. right side view

1 Adjusting screw of
4 Gearbox sprocket 5 Stav bolt
lutch lever 2 Armature of generator
3 Armature extractor
6 Nut of speedometer gear spindle bolt
7 Stud of crankcase

of frame. If the fuel tank has been removed. lift it out to the left: if the tank has only been raised, raise engine block a bit and remove it to the right (on account of the fuel cock).

DISMANTLING ENGINE (using the Engine Repair Stand No. 250 7017).

Cylinder head:

1 Unscrew spark plugs.
2. Unscrew cylinder head screws by means of box wrench (spec.tool No. 250.7015) (proceeding crosswise from outside to inside) and lift off cylinder head, taking care not to damage the gasket.

Cylinder and pistons

1. Unscrew nuts of cylinder base flange and lift off cylinder, taking care not to damage the pistons now falling forward against the crankcase with the connecting rod.
2. Mark the pistons, remove snapring from face of wrist pin by means of round-nose pliers, push out wrist pin, but be careful not to interchange them, and take off piston.

On no account should the skirt of the piston be cleaned by removing the oil carbon, even if it is quite black. The piston rings must move freely in their grooves. Do not remove piston rings without good reasons! Rings that are stuck and their grooves should be thoroughly cleaned of carbon. When removing the piston rings, do not damage or unduly stretch them. Do not interchange them and put them back into their correct position. Rings blackened along the greater

part of their circumference indicate their failure to provide a gas-tight fit and should be replaced by new rings.

Crankcase cover. left-hand side

1 IInscrew clamp screw of foot-operated gearchange lever and pull off gearchange lever
2. Unscrew camping holt of kickstarter lever, take off lever (do not lose thrust bolt with spring) and pull the hub of the kickstarter lever off its
3. Unscrew retaining screws of the left-hand crankcase cover and remove cover Do not damage the mating surfaces! Do not lose thrust washer of kickstarter shaft! When removing crankcase cover, the oil will

drain out, so place a fan underneath engine!

Clutch, gegrbox sprocket and generator

1. Unscrew the five collar nuts retaining the clutch springs, using a screw-driver with recess. For this purpose the spring retainers must be lifted from their retaining grooves by means of another screw-driver (see fig. 3). Remove clutch thrust plate and clutch discs. Take out compression nins and hall

Fig. 3: Unscrewing the collar nuts

2. Insert clutch hub holder (spec. tool No. 253.7014 consisting of some old clutch discs welded together) and chain sprocket clamp (Part No.253.7031). On the right side of engine block first unscrew stay bolt (fig. 2/5), then flatten lock disc of the retaining nut of the gearbox sprocket (fig. 2/4). Unscrew nut and remove sprocket with extractor tool (Part No. 250.7013). Remove cotter pin (Woodruff kev).
3. Remove carbon brusher of generator, unscrew mounting screws and remove base plate. Remove the armature (fig. 2/3) by means of the extractor screw (Part No. 22733) (fig. 2/3).
4. Clutch hub holder and chain sprocket clamp remain in position. Now flatten lock discs of the

Page 32

clutch hub retaining nuts and of the engine sprocket. Unscrew nuts of the clutch hub with the socket wrench (fig. 4) and pull clutch hub from the shaft.

Fig. 4: Dismantling the clutch: Unscrewing the hub locking screw

Unscrew retaining nut of the engine sprocket and remove the sprocket with the extractor tool (Part No. as above) (fig. 5).

Fig. 5: Extracting the engine sprocket

Now engine sprocket, primary chain and clutch drum can be removed simultaneously. Remove bushing and thrust collar clutch drum as well as woodruff-key and spring washer from the crankshaft stub.

Starter

1. Remove dog clutch gear of kickstarter together with spring.
2. Remove snapring from intermediate gear and remove intermediate gear.

Oil pump

Remove safety wire, unscrew mounting bolts and take off pump.

Crankcase

1. Knock out both crankcase locating pins (fig. 2/7) with the aid of a drift pin.
2. Unscrew catch guide with catch and spring from the right-hand half of the crankcase.
3. Unfasten connecting screws and remove righthand half of crankcase. As the crankshaft runs in a roller bearing in the right-hand half of the crankcase, this half can be removed without the aid of a tool. Under no circumstances should the two halves of the crankcase be separated forcibly by means of a screw-driver or a similar tool. (Be careful of the 0,1 mm [0,00394 in.] spacers underneath the races of crankshaft roller bearing and mainshaft roller bearing!)

Gearbox and Crankshaft

1. Pull out mainshaft (fig. 12/1) and remove mainshaft gears. Take thrust collar and roller bearing out of race in the left-hand half of the crankcase.
2. Remove gearshift rail with gearshift yokes.
3. Remove countershaft (fig. 10/1) with gears and thrust collar for the right-hand roller bearing. Take roller bearing out of race in the right-hand half of the crankcase.
4. After dismantling the gearbox the crankshaft can be pressed out. (Do not knock it out!)

Gearchange

This part should not be dismantled except in case of breakage, of any part failing to function properly, or for the purpose of getting the faces of the housing smoothed for a better gas-tight fit.

1. Unscrew the countersunk screw (fig. 9/7), now shim plates and spring housing (fig. 9/3) and shift guide plate with curved gates (fig. 9/8) can be removed.
2. Dismantle snapring from interior gear shift lever and remove the latter with rachet wheel (fig. 8). Push out guide sleeve.
3. Unfasten countersunk screw (fig. 9/1) and nut (fig. 7/4) and remove supporting plate (fig. 7/1).

Speedometer drive

1. Unscrew nut (fig. 2/6) from speedometer gearspindle bolt which carries the driving helical gear and press out spindle bolt.
2. Remove securing pin from driven helical gear by means of a punch, then remove helical gear downwards and pull out shaft upwards. The bearing bush should not be pressed out. If this is really considered necessary, the securing pin must be bored out.

Wash all engine parts in kerosene or other solvent. The mating surfaces of crankcase and cover are cleaned with the aid of a scraper.

Page 33

To examine the gearbox there is no need to dismonthe the left-hand grankcase cover and the clutch The oil need not be drained either.

While the engine is still hanging in the frame and the driving chain has not vet been removed the gearbox sprocket (brake rear wheel!) and the armature of the generator (engage gear and brake rear wheel!) are pulled off. The removed engine is laid on the left-hand case cover (all the oil runs into the clutch space), then the crankcase pins are knocked out and the crankcase connecting screws are unfastened. After removal of the right-hand half of the crankcase the gearbox is freely accessihle

For removing the kickstarter gears or the oil nump. as also for exchanging the front (engine-to-clutch) chain, the engine can be left in the frame. After dismantling the left-hand foot rest, the clutch lever and the kickstarter lever, the left-hand crankcase cover is removed. (Place a vessel underneath it to collect the oil flowing out.) Now the clutch is dismantled and removed together with the engine sprocket. Then the front chain can be exchanged, or the kickstarter gears or the oil nump can be removed. The oil pump should not be dismantled except for good reasons.

Pressing out of Bearings

When pressing out defective bearings, proceed as follows

To avoid damaging the bearing seat through the processes of pressing them out and in, it is advisable to warm the crankcase to about 140° F. (about 60° C.), so that it feels hot to your hand.

(Use of Electric Hot Plate: when using an open flame place a flat metal plate between the flame and the crankcase.)

a) Left-hand crankcase

1 Knock out worm drive of oil pump and exterior small ball bearing by means of a mandrol
2. Press out seal ring and large interior ball bearing in the direction towards the crankcase with a mandrel whose diameter is slightly smaller than that of seal ring.

b) Right-hand crankcase

For pressing out the roller bearing employ special tool No. 250.7011.2 (fig. 6). The right-hand seal ring is pressed out only if defective.

Seal rinas

With two-stroke engines a proper gas-tight seal of the crankcase is indispensable to efficient engine performance. The seals used are rings made of oilproof rubber. The part adjoining the shaft must have a sharp edge. The tension of the spiral spring must be such as to make the ring fit snugly and tigthly along its entire circumference. The shaft itself must be perfectly smooth, without play, and must not knock. For exchanging the seal rings as

well as the bearings a press with suitable stamps and base-parts has to be used. When fitting these rings care must be taken not to tear their edges.

Fig 6. Pressing out the roller bearing

ENGINE REASSEMBLING

Bearinas

Test bearing for easy running lack of axial play and firm seating on shaft and in the housing. Bad fit on the shaft can be overcome by fitting a new bearing. If the seats in the crankcase have been damaged, a new crankcase will have to be installed. a) Left-hand crankcase

- 1. Press in large interior ball bearing from inside
- 2. Press in seal ring from outside, its sealing edge facing outward. The worm drive of the oil nump and the small exterior ball bearing are not assembled until the two halves of the crankcase have been screwed together

b) Right-hand crankcase

1. Press in right-hand seal ring from inside with its sealing edge facing inward.
2. Press in first ball-bearing and then roller bearing from inside.
c) Crankshaft

Before pressing the crankshaft with its long journal into the left-hand half of the crankcase, heat crankcase together with bearing as described, then oil the ball bearing. After the crankshaft has been pressed in, its axial play (0.00787 in.) has to be checked by means of a crankshaft distance gauge in the following way: Place the distance gauge (Part No. 253.1032.5 L 1) on the level surface of the left-hand crankcase and test if the

Page 34

measuring face marked (+) (35.5) touches the shoulder oft the crankweb without play. If there is still some play eliminate it by inserting 0.00394 in thick spacers. Should it prove necessarv to use four or more spacers, the crankshaft had better be removed agin an half the snagers inserted at the long shaft journal so that the crankshaft remains well centered The measuring should be caried out without the gasket.

Fig 6a. Distance gauge for crankshaft

Now press the race of the roller bearing on the shaft journal. If gear shift and gearbox are assembled, the right-hand half of the crankcase can be put in place and screwed down. Only when that has been done, the worm drive of the oil pump with the aperture facing inward, and finally the small ball bearing, can be pressed into the left-hand crankcase from outside.

Test crankshaft for easy running. If the turning is somewhat hard, give both journal ends some light taps with a rubber or light-metal hammer in an axial direction, whereupon it will run easily.

Speedometer drive

1 Insert drive shaft from above and push the driven helical gear into it from below. Insert and fasten securing pin.
2. Press in spindle bolt of speedometer gear and lock it by means of the nut. Pay attention to easy running of gears and shaft.

Gearchanae

1. Assemble supporting plate (fig. 7/1) together with hairpin spring (fig. 7/2), put on securing disc (fig. 7/3) and screw on put (fig. 7/4). Screw in countersunk screw (fig. 9/1) from outside and secure the latter by a blow with a blunt chisel, then tighten nut (fig. 7/4).
2. Insert guide sleeve in the bushing of the supporting plate (fig. 7/5), the slotted end pointing towards the interior of the gearbox, fit interior gear shift lever (fig. 9/2) and secure it from the outside by means of the snapring. Insert rachet wheel in the position indicated in fig. 8 (fig. 9).

3. Install spring housing (fig. 9/3), spacer shim (fig. 9/4), disc (fig. 9/5) intermidiate disc (fig. 9/6)

Fig. 7: Assembling the supporting plate

Supporting plate
Hairnin spring 3 Locking disc
ting plate to receive the guide sleeve

5 Bushing of the suppor-

Fig. 8: Rachet wheel of automatic gear shift

1 Countersunk screw 5 Disc
2 Interior gear shift lever

Spring housing

4 Spacer shim

6 Intermidiate disc Countersunk screw
- 8 Gear shift guide plate

Page 35

and countersunk screw (fig. 9/7). With the aid of the gear indicator bring slot of the guide sleeve into alignment with the slot of the rachet wheel. Fit gear shift guide plate (fig. 9/8), tighten countersunk screw and secure it with a punch mark.

Gearbox

1. Install countershaft (fig. 10/1) with gears, fit thrust collar (fig. 10/2) and roller bearing (fig. 10/3) with rubber seal (fig. 10/4) for clutch thrust pin. The open side of the roller bearing cage must face the interior of the gearbox.

Fig. 10: Gearbox

1 Countershaft
2 Thrust collar
3 Roller bearing of
countershaft
4 Rubber seal
5 Left-hand gear shift voke
yoke 7 Second-speed spur gear 8 Third-speed spur gear

6 Right-hand gear shift

9 Gear shift rail 10 Roller bearing of main-
r shift 10 Roller bea shaft

Fig. 11: Gearbox

1 First-speed spur gear 2 Second-speed spur gear 3 Third-speed spur gear

2. Install left-hand gear shift yoke (fig. 10/5) and right-hand gear shift yoke (fig. 10/6) in such a way that the left-hand yoke engages with the guide spline of the second-speed spur gear (fig. 10/7) and the right-hand yoke engages with the guide spline of the third-speed spur gear (fig. 10/8). Put in gear shift rail (fig. 10/9) and fit it into the guide hole in the crankcase.
3. Install roller bearing (fig. 10/10) of the mainshaft into the left-hand half of the crankcase (the open side of the cage facing the interior of the gearbox), fit in thrust collar and first-speed spur gear (fig. 11/1) with pawl slots facing the inner side of the gearbox. Then insert spur gear of the second speed (fig. 11/2) and that of the third speed (fig. 11/3) in such a manner that left-hand and right-hand gear shift yokes engage with the guiding splines of the gears and each pair of gears engages with each other.
4. Insert mainshaft (fig. 12/1). If 0,1 mm (0,00394 in.) spacers were inserted under the race of the roller bearing, these have to be fitted again and then the race is put on.

Fig. 12: Gearbox

2 Race of the roller bearing

Crankshaft

1 Mainshaft

See the chapter "Fitting a new crankshaft".

Crankcase

1. Apply gasket-making compound to the mating surfaces of the left-hand half of the crankcase, put a new paper gasket on them and soak the gasket on its upper side with oil.
2. Replace right-hand half of crankcase (use rubber mallet), taking care not to damage the ring seals (use spec. tool 250.1000.0 W 18). Knock in crankcase pins (fig. 2/7), screw in and tighten up connecting screw.

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6 — 9

Oil pump

(Follow the instruction for assembly most carefully!) (fig. 13)

1. Turn plunger B to its highest position.
2. Coat the packing surface of the pump and the corresponding surface of the crankcase with oil. Assemble the parts without paper gas-ket, attach pump and slightly tighten the bolts A.
3. Set the oil pump in such a way that plunger B fully meshes with the worm C, with a side clearance of 0.00472 to 0.00787 in.
4. Tighten the bolts A uniformly but not too tightly. Make sure that plunger B can move freely within the flank clearance allowed. If the bolts A are tightened excessively, there is a danger of the oil pump plunger B seizing. This

Fig. 13: Mounting the Oil pump

Fig. 14: Kickstarter

can be seen immediately from plunger B being difficult to turn within the gear clearance.

Kickstarter (fig. 14)

1. Put on intermediate gear and secure it by means of a snapring.
2. Attach kickstarter spring to the dog clutch gear of the starter shaft, fit big thrust collar in such a way that is comes to lie between spring and crankcase. Attach spring to the retaining pin in the crankcase and give the spring initial tension until the starter shaft can be inserted in the bore of the crankcase in the position indicated in fig. 14.
3. Mount the small thrust collar (fig. 15/1) facing the crankcase cover.

Clutch and Gearbox Sprocket

1. Put spring washer (fig. 15/2) on the crankshaft stub and insert woodruff key (fig. 15/3). Place check plate (fig. 15/4) and bushing (fig. 15/5) on countershaft.

Fig. 15: Clutch

1	Thrust collar
2	Spring washer
3	Woodruff key
4	Thrust collar

5 Bushing 6 Engine sprocket 7 Front chain 8 Clutch drum
8 Clutch dru
2. Install engine sprocket (fig. 15/6) together with the chain (fig. 15/7) and clutch drum (fig. 15/8). Mount clutch hub, put in clutch hub holding tool and chain sprocket clamp, fit locking discs on crankshaft stub and countershaft, put on nuts (fig. 17/1/2) and tighten them lightly at first. Check chain tension (see fig. 16). If the sag exceeds 0,276 in., the chain should be exchanged for a new one. After inspection tighten nuts (fig. 17/1/2) and bend up locking discs.
3. Put key and chain sprocket together with locking disc on mainshaft, tighten nut and bend up locking disc. Remove clutch hub holding tool and chain sprocket clamp.

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ENGINE

3 (1 Fig. 16: Sag of engine chain 1 Clutch thrust plate 2 Spring retainer cups e a op. Collar nut

4. Assemble the clutch discs (fig. 17/3). first putting in the thick steel disc, then alternately a friction disc and exterior tooth projections to fit the grooves in the clutch drum (there are seven of these) and a steel disc with interior tooth projections to fit the grooves in the clutch hub. Finally the steel disc with bent-up prongs, the prongs facing inward, is mounted.
5. Insert the clutch thrust pin (fig. 17/4). its rounded end forward, ball (fig. 17/5) and thrust bolt with button in this order (fig. 17/6).

2 Locking nut of clutch

5 Ball 6 Thrust bolt with button

6. Install thrust plate (fig. 16/1) for clutch springs, fit the spring retainer cups (16/2) together with the springs into the apertures of the thrust plate and screw them down uniformly by means of collar nuts. The nuts must not be screwed down

completely. Correct position can be seen in fig 4 To check whether the locking lugs of the retainer cuns and of the nuts which prevent the collar nuts from working loose, have really registered slightly unscrew the nuts

We repeat that the collar nuts can be unscrewed only if the spring retainer cups are lifted simultaneously (fig. 3).

Crankcase cover

1. A new gasket soaked in oil is placed on the cleaned mating surface of the left-hand crankcase cover, then the cover is put in place (be careful of the rubber seals of the shaft outlet openingsi) and screwed down
2. Mount hub (fig. 18/1) of kickstarter crank (fig. 18/2), insert both thrust spring and thrust nin in hore of kickstarter crank and lock the latter by means of its clamping bolt.

For correct position of the kickstarter crank see fig. 18.

Fig. 18: Engine block, left-hand side, see from below

1 Hub of kickstarter
Kickstarter crank
3 Clamping bolt 4 Drain plug of crank-
5 Drain plug of clutch space 6 Drain plug of gearbox
7 Foot-operated gearshift lever
8 Oil-level plug
3. Mount foot-operated gear shift lever (fig. 18/7) and clamp it (position as required).

Pistons and Cylinder

1. If for some urgent reason the piston rings have been removed, test them for free movement prior to reassembling by turning them in their grooves. They must not stick anywhere. On the other hand, their axial play (in the long axis of the piston) should not exceed 0,00591 in. (noise!) Then put the piston, complete with rings, into its cylinder bore till the ends of the rings can be seen in the gap between the two bores

Page 38

6 — 11

(fig. 19). The piston rings must show a gap of at least 0,00394 in.; the maximum admissible gap, caused by the process of wear through long operation, is 0,0315 in. wide. If it becomes wider, loss of performance will result.

2. Fit pistons to connecting rod in such a way that all the piston ring gaps are in the rear. Now slide in the wrist pins. Do not knock them in! If necessary, press them in with the special tool No. 250.7020 or warm the pistons. Secure wrist pins by means of snaprings. (The snaprings must catch well and be easily revolvable in their grooves.) For this work it is advisable to cover the crankcase opening with a clean rag to prevent foreign bodies from dropping into the crankcase.

Fig. 19: Gap of piston rings

3. Check gasket of cylinder base flange; if necessary, fit a new one and soak it well in oil. Put some oil on cylinder wall. Turn piston rings until the locking pins appear in the gap between the butts. Only when all piston rings are in their correct positions, may the cylinder be put on. Oil the pistons, get them into a position as much parallel to each other as is possible and put the cylinder in place. We would again stress the importance of a correct positioning of the piston rings, because if they are not properly placed, they may break when the cylinder is mounted.
4. Before screwing down the cylinder base flange screws and while the cylinder can still be moved, rotate the crankshaft slowly a couple of times in order to ascertain unobstructed movement of the pistons. Then screw down uniformly the diagonally opposed cylinder base flange srews.

Generator

1. Put on armature (fig. 2/2) and screw up lock screw lightly.
2. Install stator and tighten both screws.

3. Adjustment of ignition. (See also "electrical equipment".)
4. Tighten armature fixing screw, pull out pin for ignition adjustment, check ignition once more, insert carbon brushes. Close hole for the ignition adjustment pin by means of the screw plug.

Cylinder Head

Insert a good gasket, put on cylinder head and screw it down. When tightening the cylinder head screws, always screw down the diagonally opposed screws uniformly (from inside to outside).

If a reground or new cylinder with new pistons is assambled, the engine has to be run in like a new one. Also new piston rings require about 500 km (300 miles) of running-in.

Filling up with oil

When reassembling is finished, fill the engine up with oil (³/₄ litre, about 1.5 pint). Oil must flow from the oil-level plug (fig. 18/8) when you check it.

ASSEMBLY INTO FRAME

When the engine has been lifted into the frame,

1. the two rear mounting screws are inserted from the right,
2. then the four fixing screws are put into the right-hand tongue of the front engine support and at the same time into the two eyelets in the frame and into the two eyelets in the engine block. (Mind the crank of the tongues! Engine is tilted out of center to the right.) The further assembly is done in the reversed order of dismantling.

3. Connect cables with generator.

Red cable (30) to central terminal (battery) White cable (61) to right-hand terminal (control signal lamp)

Black cable (1) to left-hand terminal (Ignition) Should, after a long time of operation, the colors on the cables no longer be clearly distinguishable, proceed as follows:

Connect battery to ground, insert ignition key, then touch each cable with the ground for a moment. The cable showing a bright spark (direct short-circuit) is the plus cable (30).

The cable producing a blue-purple spark is cable (1).

The cable lighting up control signal lamp of head light is cable (61).

After all works at the oil pump and whenever the oil hose has been disconnected, the enclosed air within the hose is to let out, that means, the connecting screw of the oil hose at gear-box should be tightened, after oil had started to flow from there.

ADJUSTING THE CARBURETTOR

The varied quality of fuels may necessitate an alteration of the carburettor adjustments, but we

Page 39

should not recommend doing that on a new machine before it has been ridden for about 600 miles. New engines have slightly higher consumption which must not be decreased by using a poor mixture. i. e. a mixture containing too little gas. The screw for regulating idling speed (fig. 20/2) should not be applied for setting idle running at random. As the influence of this screw up to about 38 mph is very great it should be applied in this speed range for the purpose of regulating the consumption. If the consumption rises above the ratio. unscrew air-screw for idler. An air-screw entirely screwed up causes rich (fat) mixture (excessive consumption). If the air-screw is loosened consumption will drop immediately. Therefore it is advisable to loosen the screw by quarter turns only If the result is not satisfactory continue to unscrew for another quarter turn etc. The efficiency will decrease after a full rotation. No effect will be obtained by unscrewing it more than 2¹/₂ turns. If one hears banging noises from the carburettor

while riding slowly with a warm engine, while slowly opening out the throttle or while slowly shutting the throttle, the mixture is too poor. Then the air adjusting screw has to be screwed up by quarter turns, until the noises have stopped. It

may occur that the engine refuses to pull with a scanty setting of the tarburettor, when the throttle is slowly opened from low speeds. In such a case the air-adjusting screw must also be screwed up until the engine accepts gas regularly.

If in spite of this procedure there is still excessive consumption or if hanging noises are heard from the carburettor, set iet-needle as required. To decrease consumption clamp needle with the needle holder into the next groove. To give an example. Has the needle been clamped into the 4^th groove (normal adjustment) then it should be clamped into the 3^rd groove (again from top end). When the jet-needle has been adjusted, the air-screw must again be regulated in the manner described above. Concerning the carburettor setting for idling, it must be set so that with the twist grip fully turned off the engine must run in neutral at moderate revs. If the idling position is not set properly trouble with the plug may occur. The adjusting-screw for idling will be found on figure 20/3. Don't bother to set the lowest number of revs. obtainable for idling. The engine, if running idle, should run smoothly. moderately and steadily. On no account should it be allowed to stop, even when the engine is hardly warm. We point out once more that the airadjusting screw must not be adjusted any more when the gas for idling is set For perfect functioning of the carburettor the crossbore in the top part of the needle-valve is absolutely transverse to the direction of the carburettor passage. When exchanging the needle valve, take care to select one that guarantees proper position to the cross section bore, if screwed up. Trifling differences can be corrected by inserting a thin ring gasket of 0.00787 in. at most, otherwise the opening of the iet tube would be placed too low. which would cause a change in the composition of the mixture. Two-stroking engines require larger main jets in the hot season. The fitted main jet No. 150 (fig. 20/4) is suitable for exerting rides in summer. In winter use main jet No. 145. If the engine runs more quickly with main jet No. 145 in the hot season. its use is admissible also in summer.

Signs of wear of the carburettor parts usually proclaim themselves only after a very long period of use and it is altogether wrong to try and remedy unsatisfactory performance by altering carburettor adjustment. Abnormal consumption figures are also very likely to be caused by the engine, in which case it would be wrong to try and remedy it by altering the carburettor setting. Use as much as possible the normal carburettor adjustment only.

Page 40

Part 3

CHASSIS

Handlebar

a) Detaching handlebar

1. Remove twist grip: Loosen the two fastening screws (fig. 21/1) and remove half the casing (fig. 21/2). Thereafter pull the twist grip from the handle bar. Now the nipples (fig. 21/3 & 21/4) for the carburettor and oil pump control cables can be unhinged. The cover (fig. 21/5) can be separated from the casing half (fig. 21/6). Both nipples can be pulled through the resulting opening.
2. Unscrew dimmer switch.
3. Loosen clutch cable by unscrewing the adjusting screw of the clutch lever (fig. 2/1) and detach clutch cable from handlebar.
4. Detach brake cable first from the lever of the front wheel brake and then from brake handlebar.

Fig. 21: Twist grip

1	Fas	sten	ing	screw

2	Casing	half
2	Minnle

6 Casing half 7 Slot screws

5 Cover

4 Nipple
- 5. Unscrew cover of bridge-piece of the fork and detach handlebar.

b) Reassembling the handlebar

1. Reassembling is performed in reversed order of dismantling Grease all sliding parts of the twist grip well.
2. The small screw of the twist grip shell (fig. 21/7) serves to brake the movement of the twist grip, if it shows a tendency to return automaticaly.

Front wheel springing

a) Dismantling the telescopic fork
- 1. Remove front wheel, unscrew fender nuts and detach fender downwards after turning the (legs) of the fork forward.

Fig. 22: Adjusting nuts of the steering bearing 1 Nut of the clamping 4 Top bridge-piece of

Lock nut 5 Dust cap
3 Adjusting nut
2. Detach positive cable from battery terminal.
3. Unscrew cover ring from headlamp body, disconnect the six cables forming the headlamp cable assembly and pull out the latter. Unscrew dimmer switch from handlebar. Unscrew union nut of flexible speedometer drive and pull out shaft. Dismantle headlamp.
4. Extract split-pin from steering damper, unscrew handwheel and detach same. Unfasten forward tank attachment screw and detach friction discs of steering damper.
5. Detach hand-brake cable, unscrew cover of top bridge-piece of fork and lay handlebar back upon the tank.
6. Loosen the two clamping screws for the fork legs at the top bridge-piece (fig. 22/4), unscrew cap nuts (fig. 23/7) and plug screw of the top end of the fork (fig. 23/8), loosen nut of the clamp screw (fig. 22/1) and unscrew check nut (fig. 22/2) and adjusting nut (fig. 22/3) (by using spec. tool 250.7012). Lift off top bridge-piece (fig. 22/4), using a rubber mallet. (The dust cap, fig. 22/5, is pressed into the bridge-piece together with the bearing cone, so that these two parts are

Page 41

removed with it.) Then pull out the fork. While doing so, care must be taken not to lose any of the 18 balls of the bottom bearing of the steering head.

b) Assembling the Telescope Fork

Renew worn steering shells. New balls (18 each) should be provided for new shells. The shells should be pressed into the tube of the frame up to their collars. Do not cant them!

Assembly in reversed order of dismantling. To tighten the lock nut (fig 22/2) the adjusting nut (fig. 22/3) must be held by tool No. 250.7030. Connecting the five cables forming the cable assembly of the headlamp: see wiring diagram.

When the cables have been connected, reconnect battery.

Fig. 23: Telescope leg dismantled

1 Screw

2 Union nut
3 Seal ring
9 Leg tube ng 10 Buffer ring

8 Plug for top end of fork

4 and 5 Bronze bushing 6 Plug for bottom end
- Plug for bottom end of fork

c) Taking to pieces the Telescope Fork

Take off frontwheel, remove fender (mudguard). Complete dismantling for detailed examination (The fork need not be detached from the machine):

1. After removal of the knock-out axle the screw situated inside the eye at the end of the fork (fig. 23/1) has to be loosened and tapped into the fork (place vessel underneath to catch oil flowing out). Then the screw is unscrewed completely.
2. Now pull down sliding tube until union (fig. 23/2) becomes accessible. This union is unscrewed (use special tool No. 250.7021). Pull off sliding tube downwards.

A ring seal (fig. 23/3) is situated inside the union (fig. 23/2). If any oil issues from the fork, this seal ring must be exchanged for a new one.

3. Check the bronze bushings (fig. 23/4 and 23/5) and renew them if they show a radial play of about 0,0394 in. (1 mm).

These parts are dismantled after the plug for the bottom end of the fork (fig. 23/6) has been unscrewed.

Further dismantling

4. Unscrew both nuts at the top end (fig. 23/7 and 23/8). Pull out the pressure spring together with its supporting tube, loosen the clamp screws of the fork tubes at the top and bottom bridge-pieces and finally pull out the legs (fig. 23/9) in a downward direction. Headlamp bracket and exterior tube can now be detached.

d) Telescope Fork Reassembling

Reassembling is done in reversed order of dismantling. Insert leg tubes in such a way that the top oil holes in both of them face forward. When reassembling, slip rubber buffer ring (fig. 23/10) on leg tube before fitting the bronze bushings.

After reassembly put 5 cu. in. of oil into each tube.

Rear Wheel Springing

a) Dismantling the Telescopic Strut

Unscrew securing worm screw (fig. 24/1) at bottom end, remove joint bolts at top and bottom ends of strut and take out the telescopic strut.

b) Reassembling in reversed order

c) Taking apart Telescopic Strut

Removal of the damper cylinder for renewing its oil.

Page 42

A 15

Put screw spapner (clearance 22 mm) through the turns of pressure spring (fig. 24/2) and unscrew sealing screw (fig. 24/5) by means of the above montioned snapper

Pull telescopic strut apart. Now empty damper cylinder (fig. 24/7) and fill it up with fresh damper oil (4⁷/, cu.in.). Reassembling in reversed order of dismontling

Placing the damper cylinder, take care the little hole of damper cylinder showing to bottom.

After unscrewing the damper piston and dismantling the sealing screw grooved ring sleeve can be changed without any special tool.

Fig. 24: Rear suspension shock absorber

1 Top strut head 2 Pressure spring Bolt of piston 5 Sealing screw

Damper piston Damper, cylinder
8 Bottom strut head

d) Detaching the pivoted swing fork
- 1 Remove rear wheel detach chain guard open chain and pull it out unscrew puts of clamping shells and take out clamping shells and chain sprocket carrier, unscrew bracing plate underneath the connecting tube of the two swing arms from the frame, and finally detach telesconic struts
- 2. Unscrew lock nut and nut of the swing fork shaft, remove clamp disc and rubber disc and pull out shaft. By pushing aside the two cover rings the two discs lying between the swing arms and the bearing tube of the frame are released and drop out. Then the swing fork can be taken out in a downward direction.

e) Assembling the swing fork

Assembling in reversed order of dismantling. Do not forget to insert the spacers between swing fork and bearing tube of the frame and to cover them with the rubber rings

Uube

a) Dismantling the bearings
- 1. Right-hand side: Press out rubber seal ring with a screwdriver, remove snaping. In the spacer tube keeping the two ball bearings at the correct distance there are two recesses. Insert a mandrel in this recess and press out the right-hand ball bearing from the left.
- 2 Left-hand side: The left-hand hall bearing is pressed out from the right by means of a mandrel.
b) Reassembling the bearings
- 1 Bight-hand side: Insert guide washer (see fig. 25). Grease and press in right-hand ball bearing, fit snapring, Press intermediate ring into seal ring and press seal ring into hub. The sealing edges of the seal ring must face inwards.
- 2. Left-hand side: Fit spacer tube, insert guide washer, grease and press in ball bearing. Press in seal ring (sealing edges facing inwards).

c) Chain sprocket carrier

1. Dismantling the bearings: Detach outer snapring from the stub of the clamping shell facing the hub, press out clamping shell, remove seal ring near chain sprocket and both interior snaprings retaining the outer ring of bearing, and press out the bearing.
2 Assembling the bearing: Pressing in the bearing is done from the side of the hub, since the seat of the bearing is conical. Before

Page 43

Fig. 25: Rear Wheel Hub

pressing in the bearing insert interior snapring at the side of the chain sprocket to form a stop for the bearing, as otherwise the bearing might be pressed through. After pressing in the bearing fit interior snapring at the side of the hub as a stop for the bearing. Mount seal ring facing the chain sprocket, press in clamping shell and fit its securing outer snapring. Grease the bearings amply.

3. When the six retaining bolts of the chain ring have been unscrewed, it will be easy to lift off the flexible coupling. The arrows marked on the flexible coupling should always point in the direction of wheel rotation, i.e. in a counter-clockwise direction.

Fuel Tank

a) Dismantling

1. Remove oil pipe and allow oil to run into some vessel, drain petrol (gasoline) from fuel tank by means of a hose, pull petrol pipe from the carburettor, detach connecting hose between the two tank halves.

2. Unscrew nut of the forward attaching screw and remove screw (be careful of the spacers), unscrew lock nut and nut of the rear tank attachment and knock out screw by a few light taps until retaining discs (collar discs) release the flaps of the fuel tank, so that the tank can be detached while the rider's saddle is being pressed downward.
b) Assembly in reversed order. Do not tighten the rear nuts before the collar discs have engaged with the flaps of the tank.

Center prop stand

a) Dismantling

Detach spring by means of screw driver. Pull out one of the screws, press against the other one and pull out tubular spacer with the second screw. Then detach center prop stand.

b) Assembly

Hold stand in place, insert tubular spacer, tighten screws (with spring washer) of the tubular spacer. Hitch up spring by means of a wire loop.

6 - 16

Page 44

Part 4 ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT

Battery-Ignition Lighting

Battery ignition is particulary suited for good starting, supplying as it does an intensive ignitionspark at lowest r. p. m. Easy starting and rapid "get-away" are features which every motor cyclist will always appreciate. And this primarily involves proper care of your battery.

Battery

A new battery has first to be filled-up with chemically pure sulphuric acid of 32° Bé (Baumé). It is then left to "soak" for 3 hours. After that it will be checked whether or not the battery indicates voltage (8 V). If it proves so, that battery is ready for use, otherwise it will have to be charged from a D.C.-source of 0,7 ampere. Continue charging until gas evolves uniformly from all plates and a terminal voltage of 2,7 V per cell has been reached. The density of acid is decreased by the soaking, but should be 32° Bé again, after charging.

There must always be enough acid in the cell to keep the acid level 0,1181 in. to 0,1574 in. (3 to 4 mm) above the top edge of the plates (not the edge of the insulating separator plate) or until acid level is just visible from open hole in splash plate. Spilled acid must be replaced by fresh acid, evaporated acid however, must be compensated for by replenishing battery with distilled water only. Tap water would ruin it! Check level every fortnight. Evaporation is most intensive during hot season. When acid level has dropped below top edge of plates, a further drop of level takes place rather rapidly, on account of the narrow section of acid flow between plates. Thus, another 0.244 cu in. (4 ccm), of evaporated acid result in a further drop of level of 0.3937 in. (1 cm). Too high a charging-current, as well as too low an acid level (or insufficient density of acid) tend to cause the substance of the positive plates to get mellow and to crumble. The battery having been charged, wipe top surface of battery quite dry and give terminals a coating of acid-free vaseline. Should terminals show signs of oxidation. clean and grease them at once. Should the model be laid up (e.g. for winter, and so on) don't under any circumstances fail to have the battery recharged every month. When installing the battery in your motor cycle remember to connect your cables correctly, put (---) terminal of battery to ground as in case of a mistake this would cause a reversal of the polarity of the dynamo (generator), and subsequent damage to both generator and battery. Don't use force while

connecting your cables to the terminals, as this might to break the latter.

Preparing 7 amp./h. motor cycle batteries, precharged an dispatched in dry condition, for operation. The great advantage of precharged batteries is that they are ready of operation within a very short time after filling.

How to prepare them for operation:

The dry battery is filled with chemically pure sulphuric acid of 1.28 spezific weight and then left to soak for at least three hours. After that period the acid level is checked and, if necessary, adiusted. It schould be 5 mm (= 1/s in) above the top edge of the plates. Then recharging is started, for which any source of D.C. can be used, the positive note of the current source being connected with the positive terminal of the battery. Amperage of the charing current should not exceed 0.7 amp. but can be lower than that. Recharging will, in most cases be finished after a few hours. The dry precharged batteries have a limited storage stability. For quite fresh batteries a recharging period of two hours will suffice. With older batteries the charge diminishes gradually so that one has to allow for a longer charging period. The density of the acid drecreases when the filled battery is left standing, depending on the degree of self discharge owing to long storage. Therefore charging is to be continued until the acid has regained its original density and the positive and negative plates evolve gas uniformly. As self-discharge occurs irregularly, one type of plates will begin evolving gas sooner than the other one. Since it is impossible to observe the formation of gas on the individual plates the conclusion of the charging process is ascertained by checking the voltage as well as by measuring the acid concentration. Charging may be regarded as finished when the density during charging has reached 1.28 again and when the voltage during charging with 0,7 amp. has risen to 8-8,3 volt and does not go on rising. These voltage values only apply to a temperature of 20° C, as they are higher at lower temperatures and vice versa and, in addition, are liable to vary to some degree. The important fact is that neither acid density nor charging voltage continue to rise beyond a certain point.

Attention! Use only chemically pure sulphuric acid. If it is concentrated, dilute only with distilled water! Always pour acid into water, never the other way round! Impure acid and impure water will ruin the battery in a very short time.

Page 45

The acid must be carefully kept on the required level. If it is too low acid of the same density as the one in the battery has to be added. Only when the acid density is too great (i. e. above 1.28 in the fully charged battery) distilled water should be added. Often it will prove necessary to fill up with acid and not with water, because gassing throws out more acid than water is decomposed.

Summary:

1. Fill up with sulphuric acid (1.28 density).
2. Leave battery standing for at least three hours.
3. Correct acid level (it should be 5 mm = 1/5 in. above top edge of plates).
4. Recharge with a maximum of 0,7 amp. until acid density and voltage (8---8,4 volt) stop rising and both types of plates evolve gas.

Ignition key:

The ignition switch is housed in the headlamp. As soon as the key is inserted, the lamp for the charging control of the generator will light up. Extinguishing of lamp indicates that generator is connected parallel to battery and that current is being fed by the dynamo. Should the lamp remain lighted while the engine is running, this is an indication that there is either something wrong or that revolutions are too low. If riding at night at less than 25 m. p. h., use 3^rd speed, or the battery will be completely discharged. Don't ever forget to detach ignition key when stopping your engine, because if you don't the battery will be completely discharged within half an hour.

Generator:

Whenever any work has to be done on the electrical equipment do not fail first to disconnect lead (30) from the positive (+) pole of your battery. Once the cover of the dynamo has been taken off, all parts are easily accessible. The accumulated carbon dust should be removed by means of a clean, dry paint brush and blown away.

See to it that carbon brushes (Fig. 26/5) can be moved freely in their grooves.

When owing to a short-circuit, the braided wire of the carbon brushes has become unsoldered, splashes of tin will show on the commutator. Then don't fail to consult immediately an experienced electrician. Also note that iron filings (dust) when dropped into the voltage regulator (1) lead to functional disturbances of the latter. Burned breaker contacts (4) should be smoothed off with small file. The lubricating felt-pad (2) of the contact-breaker cam should be soaked with best heat resisting bearing grease or two or three drops of engine oil every 1300 miles or so. Intensive sparking at the breaker-contact indicates condenser (3) trouble.

When connecting the leads, the braided wires of the cable ends should be carefully (and cleanly) turned in, as projecting wires might easily cause a short — circuit.

Generator and Voltage Regulator:

The 4-pole D.C. shunt wound generator consists of two main parts: 1) the armature which is attached (without cotter pin) to the crankshaft and carries the cam for the make-and-break contact and (1) the polehousing incorporating the field windings, the make-and-break contact of the ignition, the condenser and the voltage regulator. All these parts are arranged as a unit on the engine housing. A Bosch system of voltage regulator is used for our machines.

Adjusting of the regulator RS/ZA45-60/6/4

Although every new regulator is correctly adjusted, it is neccessary to check the adjustment again after the fitting in warm condition for an event. readjustment. This work is described in the following:

Neccessary is an electro dynamic volt meter with a measuring capacity of 0—10 or 0—15 volt and an ampere meter with a measuring capacity of 10—0—10 ampere.

1. Measuring the idling voltage of the generator with disconnected current consumer:

a) Take off cover of the generator; on the terminal plate there are 3 clamps no. 1.30/51 and 30/61. Disconnect red cable from the middle clamp 30/51. Connect the plus pole of the volt meter to the free clamp 30/51. Connect negative pole of the volt meter to the earth of the motor vehicle.
b) Start the engine (the ignition coil is supplied with current from the accumulator) Read the voltage of the volt meter at about 2000 to 2200 and at about 4000 r. p. m. At very speed range the volt meter has to show 7.6 volts.

Page 46

If the voltage is lower than 7.6 volt the accumulator will be discharged at slow driving resp. at night. If the voltage is exceeding 7.6 volt, the battery will get to much charging current and the result will be an overflowing of the acid, an abnormal wear of the carbon brushes and the collector.

c) If the volt meter does not register any voltage, the carbon brushes have to be checked for easy movement in their holders and also that the regulator is switched on. If it has to be connected by depressing with a finger, the cut out current has to be readjusted (see further below).

2. Adjustment of the voltage regulator:

Adjusting or checking the regulator is possible only in warm condition.

Fig. 27: Adjustment of the regulator

a) Before readjusting oxidized or burnt contacts have to be cleaned with a very fine contact file
b) Adjusting of the idling voltage.
Contact the volt meter as prescribed and

Fig. 28: Adjusting of the voltage regulator with adjusting tool Pos. 905.0.32.601.2

read the idling voltage. If the voltage is below 7.6 volt, the regulator contact armature has to be bent slightly in the direction marked with plus (fig. 27), by means of the adjusting tool Pos. 501.1.55.056.2 (see fig. 28/2), thus increasing the idling voltage, until reaching 7.6 volt.

Bending in the direction marked with minus, reduces the idling voltage.

If the regulator is adjusted correctly to 7.6 volt idling voltage, the generator will supply the battery with the exact charging current, because it is depending only on the charging condition of the battery.

The charging current of a completely charged accumulator will be 1 to 1.5 ampere, a low charged battery will come from 3 to 4 ampere. Therefore, the adjustment of the regulator should never be done by using an ampere meter. The only permissible checking method to apply an ampere meter is the following:

Connect in series an ampere meter between the plus or negative pole of the accumulator.

At running engine and switched on head lights a fully charged accumulator (check acid density) has to be charged from 0.2 to 0.4. In every other case the idling voltage can be raised to 7.8 volt.

3. Adjustment of the cut out current.

Connect in series an ampere meter with a charging and discharging measuring capacity of 10-0-10 ampere between the plus or negative cable of the accumulator. After starting the motor the discharging current is registered (at low r. p. m. idling gear).

By gradually opening the throttle engine r. p. m. are increased until the ampere meter shows the maximum charging current (using a fully charged accumulator). Then pull out the ignition key.

The revolutions of the engine will slow down. The charging current decreases — the ampere meter needle will approach and pass over the zero position and jump back to the zero position suddenly after reaching a specific discharging current capacity.

At this moment the regulator ist disconnecting the accumulator from the generator. The ampere meter reading at the moment of disconnection is the cut out current and is amounting to 4 and 6 ampere (can be reduced in special cases to 2—6 amperes).

If the cut out current is below 4 and above 6 ampere, the regulator armature has to be bent slightly with the adjusting tool Pos. 501.1.55. 056.2 (see fig. 20/2) until the ampere meter reading of 4¹/₂ to 5¹/₂ ampire is obtained. Slightly bending in the direction marked with plus raises the cut out current. Slightly bending in the direction marked with minus reduces the cut out current (fig. 27).

Page 47

The correct adjustment of the cut out current is very important, and is of eminent influence to the charging process.

If the regulator contact ist cutting out too early (cut out current below 4 ampere) current will he consumed from the battery so at low speed or while driving at night the battery will be discharged.

If the regulator contact is cutting out too early (cut out current over 6 ampere) the accumulator will be discharged by the dynamo. Moreover there is the danger that the armature of the regulator becomes sticking to the magneto due to the remanent magnetism, when pulling out ignition key.

By doing so, battery will be discharged in a verv short time.

We want to point out once more, that the regulator must not be adjusted with the ampere meter alone. as the charging current depends on the charging condition of the accumulator. which in most cases is unknown

Fig. 29

Oil filling screw
3 Adjusting screw 4 Carbon brush
6 Contact breaker
7 Condenser 8 Adjusting pin 9 Ignition timing tool 10 Clamp of test lamp
11 Disconnected wire

Adjustment of ignition

The ignition should take place 0.256 in (6.5 mm) before reaching top dead center. (Measured at rear piston.) When checking, first of all unscrew sparking plug and remove cover of dynamo. Now the crankshaft can easily be turned with a snanner which is put on hexagon-headscrew of the holdingdown screw for armature. After having done that mind that the distance of the contact breaker if completely opened is 0.01575 in (0.4 mm) Exact advance sparking will be obtained if you put pin for ignition adjustment (No. 250.7027) into the control opening at engine base in order to lock crankshaft. The pin fits into a slit for adjustment. In this position the ignition cam just starts disconnecting contact-breaker. If ignition is incorrect, take out carbon brush, and unscrew armature screw and loosen armature with the extractor (Pos. 22733) so that it can be shifted. Turning it against the rotation of the engine will result in more advance sparking, turning it with the rotation will reduce it. Exact adjustment may be obtained by correcting the distance of contact breaker within the limit of 0.0148 in. (0.38 mm) up to 0.0164 in (0.42 mm)

The opening of the contact breaker at the exact moment can be checked with:

an ignition timing tool (p. e. Bosch EWAF 87).

Connect one cable of the ignition timing tool to the contact lever, the second cable connect to the earth. Switch on the instrument. The instrument produces a weak buzzing sound and the control light glows faintly. By turning the rotating armature in the sense of engine rotation, the buzzing sound becomes stronger and the control light begins to glow brighter at the moment the contact breaker points begins to open.

a control lamp

Two cables are soldered to (+) pole and (-) pole of a hulb of 6 V/1-3 W Disconnect at the conpecting plate cable (1). Then connect one cable of the test lamp to terminal 30/51. while the second cable is connected to the contact breaker Having done this the armature is turned counterclockwise until contact breaker is closed. If this happens the lamp lights up. Now continue turning the armature in the same direction, until the lamp is extinguished which indicates the exact point of ignition.

Adjusting Beam of Headlamp

The adjustment of the light has to be in accordance to the prescription of law. After loosening the tightening screw he complete headlamp is moveable in order to be adjusted.

Load the motor cycle with one person and adjust the head light only, then you will receive the proper "low beam position" automatically.

Adjust as shown at the sketch below. For this purpose it is necessary to designate a wall (see sketch) for adjustment of the high beam position.

Page 48

Fig. 30: Motor cycle position with respect to wall

Page 49

Section 7 SPARE PARTS LIST

TABL	E OF
ENGINE	0	Crankcase, Cylinder
(	Ø	Engine Parts, Oil Pump
	0	Clutch
	0	Gearbox
	Θ	Kickstarter, Speedometer Drive
	0	Gear shift, Electric idle gear indicator
	Ø	Carburettor P 32/1
	0	Exhaust
CHASSIS	0	Fuel tank, Twin seat
	0	Frame
	0	Central prop stand, Foot brake, Foot rests
	Ø	Pivoted rear fork, Chain guard
	©	Rear Suspension Shock Absorber
	Ø	Fenders, Tail-stop-light group
FORK	Ð	Front fork and steering assembly
	❻	Handlebar, Bowden cables
ROAD WHEELS	Ø	Front wheel
	ـ	Rear wheel, Rear chain
ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT	ً	Generator
		Head lamp with electric idle gear indicator, speedometer, battery, horn, ignition coil
EXTRA EQUIPMENT	Ø	Tools
APPENDIX	Ø	Accessory Exhaust kit
	Ø	Special Tools

To convert millimeters to inches, multiply by 0.03937

Model Number 810.89571 for Vehicles which are laquered poppy-red — silver Model Number 810.89572 for Vehicles which are laquered black — silver

Page 50

7 — 2

Page 51

CRANKCASE, CYLINDER

R	ef. lo.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
	1	250 1007	Cylinder head cap screw M 8X65 — 8 G	8
	2	2/804	Washer 8.4 DIN 433	8
	3	SEARS No. 60400	Spark plug	2
	4	253.1001	Cylinder head	1
	5	253.2.1004	Cylinder head aasket (Alu)	1
	6	253,1005,2	Cylinder, normal, 45 mm dia.	1
	6	253.1005.3	Cylinder, 45,5 mm dia.
	6	253.1005.4	Cylinder, 46 mm dia.
	7	900.2009	Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 934 8 G	4
	8	250,1013	Cylinder base flange gasket	1
	9	900,1204	Fillister head screw M 7X25 (DIN 83)	2
	10	25918	Fillister head screw M 7X50 (DIN 83)	1
	11	25917	Fillister head screw M 7X55 (DIN 83)	4
	12	25410	Fillister head screw M 7X38 (DIN 83)	5
	13	128.1062	Stud bolt (for chain lubrication)	1
	14	250,1041.2	Venting screw	1
	15	26526	Seal ring C 18X22 DIN 7603	2
	16	253,1044	Oil filler plug M 18X1,5	1
	17	250.1009	Packing for oil-pump adjusting hole	1
	18	250.1008	Cover for above	1
	19	23319	Hexagon head screw M 5X12 DIN 933	2
1	20	900.1305	Fillister head screw M 6X8 DIN 84	1
	21	24365	Seal ring A 6X12 DIN 7603	\| 1
	22	900,1902	Stud AM 8X18 DIN 835 8 G	8
	23	900.1918	Stud AM 7X12	4
	24	24573	Spacer 9 mm dia., 16,5 long	2
	25	250.1034	Left crankcase cover	1
	26	16636	Seal ring 14/10,5/1,5	\| 1
	27	250.1010	Hexagon head screw for oil level plug	\| 1
	28	24554	Packing for crankcase lid	1
	29	171.1.10.010.1	Lid	\| 1
	30	25429	Lens head screw for lid AM 5X12 DIN 85	2
	31	253.1046	Oil drain plug (M 8)	\| 2
	32	26482	Seal ring A 8X14 DIN 7603	3
	33	26218	Lens head screw M 6X50 DIN 85-8G for left crankcase cover	6
	34	253,1050	Crankcase gasket	\| 1
	35	254.1032.0	Crankcase complete	1
	36	900,4801	Cylindrical pin 6 h 8X36 DIN 7	2
	37	250.1049	Gasket for crankcase cover
	38	26370	Hexagon head screw M 8X8 DIN 933 for oil drain	\| 1

Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Page 52

Page 53

ENGINE-PARTS, OIL PUMP

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Regud. No.
1	253 1060	Pieton ring AZ 45X2.5 ac DIN 73102	6
	253,1060.3	Piston ring oversize J. AZ 45.5X2.5 ac DIN 73102
	253,1060,4	Piston ring oversize II. AZ 46X2.5 ac DIN 73102
2	175 1008	Notched securing pin 2.5X7	6
3	253,1006.2	Piston, normal, 45 mm dia.	2
3	253.1006.6	Piston oversize 1, 45,5 mm dia.
3	253.1006.7	Piston oversize II, 46 mm dia.	—
4	250.1011	Piston pin 18 mm dia., 36 mm long	2
5	13970	Snap ring Sg 18x1 DIN 472	4
6	253.1015.0	Crankshaft compl. with connecting rod	1
7	26020	Deep-row ball bearing 6305 62/25/17, DIN 625 for crankshaft
		left side	1
8	250.1036	Seal ring B 1 35/25/7 for crankshaft left side DIN 6503	1
9	250.1029	Worm drive for oil pump	1
10	900.6204	Deep-row ball bearing 6204 47/20/14, DIN 625 for crankshaft
		left side	1
11	250.1028	Spring washer	\| 1
12	26029	Woodruff key 5X6,5 DIN 6888	\| 1
\| 13	26017	Securing disc 32/16,5 mm dia.	\| 1
14	26054	Hexagon nut M 16X1,5 DIN 936	1
15	253,1030	Engine sprocket, 22 teeth	1
16	253,1040.0	Front chain (Duplex, 64 rollers)	1
17	900.1015	Hexagon head screw M 6X35 SK DIN 931	2
18	250.1100.0	Oil pump complete
19	250.1115	Restoring spring	\| 1
20	13584	Spacer shim 34/25,5/0,1
20	13584.2	Spacer shim 34/25,5/0,2 for side of crankshalf (as needed)	-
20	13584.3	Spacer shim 34/25,5/0,3 j	- \|
21	900.6650	Cylindrical roller bearing for crankshaft right-hand side NJ
00	05450	Seal ring B 1 35/20/7 for crankshaft right-hand side DIN 6503	1
1 42	23132	(identical with 250 1056)	4
25	250 1053 2	Buch 18/20/16 for main connecting rod and auxiliary connecting rod	2
\| -	230.1030.0	Bear 19/20/10101 main connecting roa and downary connecting roa	1
			1

Page 54

Page 55

сготсн

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
1	253.1201.2	Clutch sprocket (51 teeth)	1
2	253.1204.2	Clutch hub	1
3	251.1209	Clutch hub stud (M 7, 50 long)	5
4	250,1319	Securing disc	1
5	250,1320	Nut M 18X1	1
6	251.1228	Terminal clutch disc	1
7	250,1212	Interior disc	6
8	250.1224.2	Clutch friction disc (with lining)	7
9	253.1212	End clutch disc (with bent-up scallops)	1
10	253.1210	Clutch thrust plate	1
11	251.1205	Spring retainer cup	5
12	251.1206	Spring	5
13	251.1207	Collar nut (M 7)	5
14	250.1214.2	Clutch thrust bolt with button	1
15	250.1216	Sleeve 26/20/24	1
16	253.1217	Thrust collar 40/20/2	1
17	22755	Ball 5/16"	\| 1
18	250.1215	Clutch thrust pin 53 long	1
19	250,1218	Clutch release lever	1
20	250,1219.2	Base for clutch adjustment	1
21	250,1222	Securing spring	\| 1
22	26819	Spring ring B 8 DIN 127	2
23	900.1104	Hexagon head screw M 8X25 DIN 933	2
24	250.1220	Clutch adjustment screw (M 7)	1
1

Sears 250 SGS --- 66/16 Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

Page 56

Page 57

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
	050 4245		1
1	250.1315	Disc 00/0/0,70 Pubber real ring 48 5/7 5/2 5	1
2	250,1010	Robber sear ring 10,0/7,0/0,0	2
১ ,	250.1510	Bouring Uvan Dollon bearing for countershall right hand side and mainshaft	1
4	200.1307.0	noner bearing for countersnan right-hand side and mainsnan	2
[	250 4307 2	Roller begring without begring bush	2
-	250.1007.2	Roller begring cage	2
	250,1300	Cover for roller begring	2
	900 6101	Cylindrical roller 5X8 DIN 5402	18
5	250 1306	Thrust collar for countershaft and mainshaft 30/17/2	2
6	24288	Spacer shim 25/18/0.1 as needed	\| _
7	250 1304 2	Countershaft dear 4th speed (17 teeth)	1
8	250 1303	Countershaft gear 3rd speed (15 teeth)	1
0	250,1302	Countershaft dear 2nd speed (12 teeth)	1
10	250.1301	Countershaft (8 teeth)	1
11	25892	Spacer shim 27/21/0,1
11	25892.2	Spacer shim 27/21/0.2	\| _
12	900.6304	Deep-row ball bearing 6304 52/20/15 DIN 625	\| 1
13	250.1311.2	Gear 1st speed (22 teeth)	1
14	250,1312	Gear 2nd speed (18 teeth)	1
15	250.1313	Gear 3rd speed (15 teeth)	1
16	250.1314	Mainshaft (13 teeth)	1
17	26007	Roller bearing WJL 47/20/18 DIN 5412 for mainshaft	1
		right-hand side	\| 1
18	25152	Seal ring B 1 35/20/7	1
19	26029	Woodruff key (cotter) 5X6,5 DIN 6888	\| 1
20	253.1325	Gearbox sprocket (15 teeth)(series)	\| 1
	403.1.13.112.1	· Gearbox sprocket (12 teeth)	\| -
	260.1328	Gearbox sprocket (13 teeth)	\|
20	253.1323	Gearbox sprocket (14 teeth) only for special order	-
	253.1317	Gearbox sprocket (17 teeth)	\|
	253.1324	Gearbox sprocket (18 teeth)
21	26017	Securing disc 32/16,5 mm dia.	\| 1
22	26054	Hexagon nut M 16X1,5 DIN 936	\| 1

Sears 250 SGS --- 66/16 Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine

7 --- 9

Page 58

Page 59

KICKSTARTER, SPEEDOMETER DRIVE



曹门爵

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Regud. No.
		KICKSTARTER
1	250.1328	Spring plate	1
2	250.1327	Thrust spring	1
3	250.1326	Kickstarter dog, clutch gear	1
4	253.1337	Rubber pedal for kickstarter crank	1
5	251.1340	Kickstarter crank	1
6	250.1342	Bolt for kickstarter crank	1
7	251.1341	Hub for kickstarter crank	1
8	250.1344	Thrust spring	1
9	250.1343	Thrust bolt	1
10	250.1346	Ring washer cover	1
11	250.1345	Ring washer (rubber) for startershaft 25/16,8/4	1
12	250,1333	Thrust collar 25/17,2/1	1
13	250.1331.2	Kickstarter tooth segment	1
14	250,1334	Starter spring	1
15	26529	Snap ring Sg 14X1 DIN 471	1
16	250,1330	Intermédiate gear of kickstarter	1
17	250.1329	Bolt for above	1
18	250,1336	Disc 46/16/1 for starter spring	1
19	250.1335	Fixing pin, pressure — sunk in housing	1
20	28909	Washer 14/6,5/1 for fixing pin	. 1
		SPEEDOMETER DRIVE
	253,1349.0	Speedometer drive complete	1
21	26820	Hexagon nut M 8X1 DIN 934	1
22	26819	Spring ring B 8 DIN 127	1
23	251,1357	Driving shaft	1
24	250.1356	Bushing 17/25	1
25	250.1359	Securing pin 2 mm dia., 16 long	1
26	253.1362.2	Spindle bolt with driving gear (7 teeth)	1
27	253.1361	Worm wheel driven	1
28	251.1359	Securing pin 3 mm dia., 17 long	1
29	26834	Spring ring B 6 DIN 127	1
30	22872	Hexagon head screw M 6x30 DIN 931 for attachment of
		speedometer spiral	1

Page 60

SEARS MOTOR CYCLE ------------------------------------

Page 61

GEAR SHIFT, ELECTRIC IDLE GEAR INDICATOR


1
1
1
1
1
1
1

_
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
_

1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
\| 1
. 1
2
\| 1

2

Page 62

7 --- 14

Page 63

CARBURETTOR P32/1

R	ef. Io.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
-		050 0 45 004 0/50		1
- \|		253.2.15.001.0/50	Carburenor compi., (winout air filler)	1
	1	254.1.1551		1 2
	2	20///	Cap screw (M 5)	1
	3	253.1549.2		1
	4	253.1546		1
	2	20039	Spill pill 1 A to Dirk 74	1
	0 \| 7	250,1500		1
	/ 0	250,1530	Float	1
	0	250.1525.2	Carburattor bousing
	7 40	250.15/0.2	Air filter compl. (0/116 mm dig. (with shackle)
	11	250.1543	Shackle for air filter	1
	11 10	230.1343	Fillister head screw AM 6X 20 DIN 84-8 G	1
	12	2/433	Hexagon put M 6 DIN 934	1
	1.0	24773	Bowden wire adjusting screw	1
	14	26770	Heragon nut (BM 6X0.75)	1
	16	25/ 1 1519	Cover for carburetter housing (24 high)	1
1	17	253 1532	Cover for float chamber	1
	18	253 2 1 531	Throttle piston thrust spring 15 mm dia., 90 long	1
	180	254.1.1518	Spring plate	1
	19	253,1548	Needie holder (clamp spring)	1
	20	253 1516	let needle	1
	23	254 1.1515	Throttle piston (50 high)	1
	24	26776	Guide screw	1
	25	253,1521	Flange gasket	1
	26	253.1534	Carburettor flange	1
	27	29189	Spring ring B 7 DIN 127	4
	28	24774	Hexagon nut M 7 DIN 934	4
	29	253,1513	Shoulder bolt (M 7)	1
	30	253,1537	Carburettor fixing shackle	1
1	31	250.1507		2
	31a	253.1504	Mixing jet	1
	32	250.1510/40	Idle jet No. 40	1
	33	250.1512	Thrust spring	1
	34	253.1511	Regulating screw	. 1
	35	253.1520	Thrust spring	1
	36	253.1517	Throttle piston stop screw (M 5)	1
	37	250.1522	Float chamber	1
	38	900.3765	Seal ring 24/17,2/1	2
	39	253.1508	Needle jet	1
	40	253.1509/14	Main jet No. 150	\| 1
	40	253.1509/*	Main jet No (as required)
	41	250.1523.2	Locking screw	1
				1

* Please state jet number

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Page 64

Page 65

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Regud No.
	253,1606,0/23	Muffler right-hand side complete chromium plated	1
\|	253,1607,0/23	Muffler left-hand side complete chromium plated	1
1	253,1629	Connecting tube, 203 long	2
2	900,4906	Split pin 3X60 DIN 94	2
3	253,1617,0	Silencer inner member complete	2
4	253.1640	Asbestos seal cord (rear) (3 mm dia., 250 long)	2
5	27616	Steel wool for silencer	4
6	900.2105	Hexagon nut M 5 DIN 555	10
7	29190	Spring ring B 5 DIN 127	10
8	900,1308	Fillister head screw AM 5X30 DIN 84	. 10
9	24417	Hexagon nut AM 6 DIN 439	- 2
10	900.3937	Washer 12/6,4/0,75	2
11	24365	Seal ring A 6X12 DIN 7603	4
12	900,1511	Lens head screw M 6X90 DIN 85	2
13	253.1635	Asbestos seal cord (middle)
		(3 mm dia., 227 long)	4
14	900.2106	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 555	2
15	26834	Spring ring B 6 DIN 127	2
16	253.1625.2	Shackle	2
17	253.1636	Asbestos seal cord (front) (2 mm dia., 227 long)	2
18	900.1339	Fillister head screw AM 6X35 DIN 84	2
19	255.1605	Gasket for exhaust	2
20	26819	Spring ring B 8 DIN 127	4
21	24775	Hexagon nui M 8 DIN 934	4
22	253,1601.2	Exhaust pipe right-hand side	\| 1
22	253,1602.2	Exhaust pipe lefi-hand side	1
(23)	253.1608.2/23	Covering pipe right-hand side chromium plated	1
23	253.1609.2/23	Covering pipe left-hand side chromium plated	\| 1
24	253.1622	End pipe	2
25	26834	Spring ring B 6 DIN 127	.2
26	900.1205	Fillister head screw AM 6X50 DIN 84	2

Page 66

7 — 18

Page 67

FUEL TANK, TWIN SEAT

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Regud. No.
1 2 3 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 5 6 12 12 14 15 16 20 21 22 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 35 36 37 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 46 46 46 46 46 46 46 46 46	270.3.22.000.2/90 360.1.22.520.0 270.1.22.023.1 270.2.22.023.1 270.3.22.028.1 270.3.22.028.1 270.3.22.028.1 270.3.22.029.1 270.1.22.127.0 128.2227.0 16636 27634 26793 24456 900.0902/07 900.0902/07 900.0902/07 900.0902/07 250.2213.2 250.2213 16625 900.2108 26819 253.1.22.235.1 24806 22887.1 900.1002 253.1.22.235.1 253.1.22.235.1 253.1.22.235.1 253.1.22.235.1 253.1.22.235.1 253.1.22.235.1 253.1.22.235.1 253.1.22.235.1 253.1.22.235.1 24775 900.2108 900.3910 900.1104	Fuel tank (loose) (silver) Filler cap complete Transfer picture ,,Sears" Decal "OLL" Decal "GASOLINE ONLY" Knee cushion left Knee cushion right Fuel cock compl. (Karco) Fuel cock compl. (Karco) Fuel cock compl. (Karco) Fuel cock compl. (Karco) Fuel cock compl. (Karco) Fuel cock compl. (Karco) Fuel pipe sleevé Fuel pipe 9,5 mm dia., (310 long) Fuel pipe 9,5 mm dia., (220 long) Oil pipe Connecting screw (for oil- and fuel pipes) Seal ring 14/10,5/1,5 Connecting pipe sleeve Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 555 Spring ring B 8 DIN 127 Distance piece at damping arm Washer 8,4 DIN 433 Hexagon head screw M 8X 85 DIN 931-8 G Hexagon blt M 6X 22 DIN 931 Clamp piece Rubber bearing Twin seat complete Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 127 Distance piece M 8X130 DIN 931-8 G Washer 21/8/1,75- Spring ring B 8 DIN 127 Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 934 Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 934 Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 555 Washer 28/8,4/5 Hexagon head screw M 8x25 DIN 933	1 2 1 2 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

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Page 68

Page 69

FRAME

Reí, No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
1	270.1.20.200.0/30	Frame complete (with cover right-hand side) (black)	1
1	270.1.20.200.0/49	Frame complete (with cover right-hand side) (red)	1
2	900.2106	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 555	1
3	253.5604.2	Thrust bolt	1
4	253.2612	Rubber cord gasket 910 mm long	1
5	270.3.26.001.2/30		ו 1
5	270.3.26.001.2/49		3
•	900.3266		3
6a 7	900.2106 900.1165	Hexagon hut M 6 DIN 355 Hexagon head screw M 7X10 DIN 933 (as required)	1
10 10	270.2.26.002.2/30 270.2.26.002.2/49	Tool box cover (loose) (black) Tool box cover (loose) (red)	1
16	406.1.20.029.2/30	Cover right-hand side (black) Cover right-hand side (red)	1 1
(16)	406.1.20.028.2/30	Cover left-hand side (as required if Bourgess Exhaust is
(16)	406.1.20.028.2/49	mounted and tool box falls out) (black) Cover left-hand side (as required if Bourgess Exhaust is
		mounted and tool box falls out (red)
16a	367.1.20.047.1	Transfer picture for battery and tool cover	2
17	100.2670.2	Screw for cover	2
17a	128.2045	Thread washer (M 7)	2
18	128.2009	Rubber ring 32/25/20 as needed	1
19	901.1058	Hexagon head screw M 10X1X150 Dirt 760-10K (of the engine	5
20	900.1050	Connecting plate (black)	1
21	253.2051/30	Connecting plate (red)	1
22	27397	Hexagon head screw AM 8X40 DIN 931 8 G	2
23	900 2108	Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 555	5
24	26819	Spring ring B 8 DIN 127	5
25	250,2043	Rubber stop for stand	2
26	253.2058.2/30	Foot rest tube right-hand side (black)	1
26	253,2058,2/49	Foot rest tube right-hand side (red)	1.
27	27397	Hexagon head screw M 8×40 D1N 931—8 G	2
28	253.2020	Bushing right-hand side 19,7/11,8/18	1
29	253,2019	Bushing left-hand side 19,7/15,8/18	1
30	253.1043/30	Plate for engine suspension (bldck)	2
30	253.1043/49	Plate for engine suspension (rea)
31 31	253.2057.2/30 253.2057.2/49	Foot rest tube left-hand side (Diack) Foot rest tube left-hand side (red)	1
32 33	1426 24803	Fillister head screw AM 5X8 DIN 84 Washer 5,3 DIN 433	\| 1
34	253,2037/30	Fairing plate (black)	\| 1
34	253.2037/49	Fairing plate (red)	\| 1
—	24807	Washer 10,5 DIN 433 (with Ref. No. 35)	6
35	29192	Spring ring B 10 DIN 127	6
36	900.2011	Hexagon nut M 10X1 DIN 934—8 G	6
37	900.2320	Hexagon nut M 10X1 DIN 936 - 8G
39	270.9.20.010.1	Nomenclature plate (Model number 610.69572) (plack-silver)
39	270.8.20,010.1		2
40	365	Hammer screw	1
40d	253.2043	Lens head screw M 8X18 DIN 85
400	900,1510	Spring washer A 8 DIN 137 for handle	1
400	900,3209	Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 555	1
400	364 1 30 062 1	Rubber plug	2
42	253.1.10.061.1	Securing sheet for screw for engine suspension	\| 1

Sears 250 SGS - 66/16

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Page 70

Page 71

CENTRAL PROP STAND, FOOT BRAKE, FOOT RESTS

Ø

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	R	lequd No.
1	2/009	Wing put (M 7)		1
2	24707			1
2	20740	Thrust spring		1
2	27127	Brake rod		1
4	233.2307.2	Hexagon put M 7 DIN 934		1
2	24774	Broke rod clevis		1
.0	200,200	Bolt 6 mm dia.		3
	900.4021	Hexagon nut M 8X1 DIN 934		1
0	20020	Sering ring B 8 DIN 127		1
40	20017	Washer 21/8 1/1.75		1
10	120,2310	Porning holt		1
11	200,2021	Bearing bon		1
12	253,2514.2	niermediate lever (with bosing)		1
13	253.2516	Bushing (plastic 14,3/7,6/17)		1
14	28//3	Restoring spring		1
15	253,2505	Varban 105 DIN (33		1
16	2480/			1
17	900.4610	Shap ring Sg 10X1 Din 4/1		3
18	26821	Pressure grease (alemite) inplie		3
19	18931	Washer for Alemite hipple (as required)		3
20	24893	Split pin 1,5X10 DIN 94		3
21	24804	Washer 6,4 DIN 435		1
22	253.2507.2	Tie rod		1
23	253.2.2510.2	Brake shaft		4
24	900.2106	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 555		4
25	900.1107	Hexagon head screw M 6X25 DIN 933		1
26	100.2666	Intermediate ring (rubber) 24/14/3		4
27	250.4010	Seal ring (rubber) 22/11/3		i a
28	900.1128	Hexagon head screw M / X 20 DIN 933		1
29	128,2515	Foot rest (left and right)		2
30	357.1.25.016.1	Rubber for foot rest		2
31	128.2505	Screw M 14X1,5 for foot rest		ž
32	900.3214	Spring ring B 14 DIN 127		2
33	253.1436	Foot brake rubber pedal
34	253,2500	Foot brake lever		1
35	128.2410	Spring for Central prop stand
36	253.2400.2/30	Central pnop stand (black)
36	253.2400.2/49	Central pnop stand (red)		Ĩ
37	253.2413	Spacer 10 mm dia., 119 long		1
38	26819	Spring ring B 8 DIN 127
39	25585	Hexagon head screw M 8X15 DIN 933
40	128.2927.0	Pillion foot rest compl.	per pair
41	128.2508	Foot rest rubber pedal
42	128.2927.2	Pillion foot rest (separate)
43	128.2925	Oval head screw (M 5)
44	250.1434	Crown disc 12/7,2/0,3		1
45	128.2924	Catch spring
46	128.2923	Catch taper
47	900.2105	Hexagon nut M 5 DIN 555
48	29190	Spring ring B 5 DIN 127
	ł			4

Sears 250 SGS - 66/16

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Page 72

Page 73

PIVOTED REAR FORK, CHAIN GUARD

Ref. No.	Part No.	. Description	Requd. No.
	253.2100.0/30	Pivoted rear fork compl. (with rear chain guard, different
		screws and pressed-in silent blocs) (black)	1
I —	253.2100.0/49	Pivoted rear fork compl. (with rear chain guard, different	l.
ł		screws and pressed-in silent blocs) (red)	1
1	253.2129.2/30	Rear chain guard (black)	1
1	253.2129.2/49	Rear chain guard (red)	1
2	28909	Washer 14/6,5/1	2
3	24773	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 934	2
4	26834	Spring ring B 6 DIN 127	2
5	253.2153	Silent bloc 22 mm dia., 24 long	2
6	26820	Hexagon nut M 8X1 DIN 934	1
7	26819	Spring ring B 8 DIN 127	1
8	253.2.2108	Brake stop screw (M 8X1)	1
9	253.2125	Chain tensioning screw (M 7)	2
10	24774	Hexagon nut M 7 DIN 934	2
11	253.2100.2/30	Swing fork (separate) (black)	1
11	253.2100.2/49	Swing fork (separate) (red)	1
12	175.2.21.022.1	Cover 52 mm dia.	1
13	253.2116	Rubber cap 40 mm dia.	2 ·
14	253.2130.2	Swing fork shaft	1
15	253.2139	Clamp disc 31/20 mm dia.	1
16	26821	Pressure grease nipple	1
17	18931	Washer 10/6,5/1,5 (as required)	1
18	128.2132	Hexagon nut M 18X1	2
19	128.2141	Clamp disc 31/18,5 mm dia.	1
20	253.2140	Rubber disc 32/23/2,5	2
21	253.2137	Bushing 40 long	2
22	253,2138	Spacer 42,5 long	2
23	253.2142	Washer 30/20,1/3	2
24	253.2144	Rubber ring 36/28/8	\| 2
25	253,1035	Right crankcase cover	1
26	900.1652	Lens head countersunk screw M 6X30 DIN 91	2
27	900,1603	Lens head countersunk screw M 6X40 DIN 91	\| 1

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Page 74

Page 75

REAR SUSPENSION SHOCK ABSORBER

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description		Requd. No.
_	253.6.21.250.0	Shock absorber complete		2
\| 1 \|	253.6.21.251.1	Top strut head		2
2	253.2.2172	Buffer disc 8mm dia. X17mm dia.		2
4	367.1.21.052.1	Sealing screw		2
5	367.1.21.079.1	Joint washer 31,8/24,8/2,5		2
6	367.1.21.078.1	Rubber seal		2
7	367.1.21.077.1	Spring cup		2
8	367.1.21.080.1	Pressure spring	,	2
9	367.1.21.056.1	Guide bushing		2
11	253.2.2184	Spacer		2
12	253.2.2182	Spring washer		2
13	253.4.21.077.1	Ring valve (disc 17/10,7/0,6) (replaces 253.2.2177)		2
14	253.4.21.062.0	Damper piston complete (with piston ring)		2
14α	253.4.21.059.1	Piston		2
15	900.3207	Curved washer A 7 DIN 137		2
16	367.1.21.063.1	Jet screw		2
17	253.3.21.064.1	Damper cylinder		2
18	253,2,2165,2	Bottom plug		2
19	253.2153	Silent bloc 22 mm dia., 24 long		2
20	253.2173	Top joint bolt (M 12, 60 long)		2
21	253.5.21.066.1	Pressure spring (50mm dia., 210 long)		2
25a	253,3.2171	Sleeve		2
26a	253.5.21.054.2	Bottom strut head		2
27	900.1948	Threaded pin M 5X12 DIN 553		2
28	253.2174	Bottom joint bolt (M 12X1,5, 47 long)		2
29	253.2176	Locking plug		2

7 — 27

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Page 76

7 — 28

Page 77

FENDERS, TAIL-STOP-LIGHT GROUP

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
1	253 1 27 200 1 /90	Front fender (silver)	1
2	253 1 27 223 2/90	Support for fender (silver)	1
2	20180	Spring ring B7 DIN 127	4
4	26774	Hexagon nut M 7 DIN 934	4
5	253 1 27 203 2/90	Strut for fender, front (silver)	1
6	900 1316	Fillister head screw M 6x10 DIN 84	8
7	900 3212	Spring washer A 6 DIN 137	8
8	900.2106	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 555	8
9	367.1.27.004.1	Transfer picture for front fender	1
21	270.3.27.010.2/30	Rear fender (black)	1
21	270.3.27.010.2/49	Rear fender (red)	1
22	24928	Hexagon head screw M 6x15 DIN 933	14
23	28909	Washer 14/6,5/1	4
24	900.3937	Washer 12/6,4/0,75	10
25	26834	Spring ring B 6 DIN 127	14
26	900.2106	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 555	14
31	366.1.55.015.1/30	Tail-stop-light bracket (black)	1
31	366.1.55.015.1/49	Tail-stop-light bracket (red)	1
32	900,1130	Hexagon bolt M7x15 DIN 933	2
33	24805	Plain washer 7,4 DIN 433	2
34	29189	Spring ring B 7 DIN 127	2
35	24774	Hexagon nut M 7 DIN 934	2
41	366.1.55.001.0/30	Tail-stop-light compl. (black)
41	366.1.55.001.0/49	Tail-stop-light compl. (red)	1
42	366.1.55.002.9	Connecting cable compl.
43	366.1.55.003.1	Kubber support 6//29 mm did.
44	902.0/11	I win filament 6 V 18/5 W DIN 72001
45	366.1.55.005.1	KUDDER seal ring oo/ov/0,0
46	366.1.55.006.1	Reflex reflector	2
4/	900.9628	Tail step light housing (black)
48	300.1.35.000.2/30	Tail stop light housing (black)
48	244 4 55 000 4	Mindow
49	300,1,33,009,1	Pubbar aarkat for window
50	300.1.33.010.1	Havadan nut M & DIN 93/	2
51	24770	Sarrated Lock washer & 6 / DIN 6798	2
52	. 900,3207	Serraled fock washer A 0,4 Dirt 0/70

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Page 78

Ð FRONT FORK AND STEERING ASSEMBLY 40 R 33 37 -38 47 48 -25 52 a. 52 -53 5 4

7 — 30

Page 79

FRONT FORK AND STEERING ASSEMBLY

	Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
	- \|	253.1.30.200.0/30	Front fork complete (black)	1
	1	27397	Hexagon head screw M 8X40 DIN 931—8 G for top and bottom	1
l	2	96810	bridge pieces of fork	5
ł	2 2a	900.3209	Spring washer A 8 DIN 137	3
	3	253.1.30.201.0	Top fork lug	1
	3a 4	901,4808 250,3011	Spring pin 6X12 DIN 1481 Top joint of fork lea	2
	5	250.3012.2	Screw cover	2
l	67	24796	Washer 7,4 DIN 125 Heyadan head screw M 7X25 DIN 933.8G for cover attachment	4
ļ	8	24218	Hexagon head screw AM7X35 DIN 931-8G for cover attachment	2
l	9	170.3105	Steering damper control disc	1
ĺ	10	250,3118	Rubber buffer 19/6.3/22	2
	12	253,3002	Cover for top bridge piece of fork	1
ł	13	250.3104	Slot nut Hexagon put M 8 DIN 934	2
	16	250.3103	Dust cap	1
ł	17	22751	Ball 1/4"	36
	18 19	250,3101	Steering bearing shell Steering bearing cone	2
	20	128.6305	Shackle (for brake cable)	1
1	21		Bottom fork lug (black) Bottom fork lug (red)	1
	22	250.3108.2	Damper arm	i
	23	29021	Friction disc 61/39 mm dia.	2
	24 25	250.3110.2	Bottom pressure plate Split pin 2X12 DIN 94
	26	253.3014.2/30	Sliding tube I. h. s. (black)	1
	26	253.3014.2/49	Sliding tube I. h. s. (red)
	27	253.3015.2/49	Sliding tube r. h. s. (red)	1
	28	21526	Seal ring 9/5,3/1	2
	29 30	1426	Spring ring B 7 DIN 127
۱	31	24218	Hexagon head screw M7X35 DIN 931 — 8 G for right sliding tube	1
	32	253.1.30.242.1	Top centering ring Headlamp bracket Lb.s. (black)	2
	33	253.1.30.243.2/49	Headlamp bracket I. h. s. (red)	1
1	33a	253,1.30.244,2/30	Headlamp bracket r. h. s. (black)	1
	33α 34	253.1.30.244.2/49	Bottom centering ring	2
	35	250.3040	Intermediate ring (rubber) 48/33/4,5	2
	36 36		Exterior fork tube compl. (black)	2
	37	250,3049	Felt washer	2
	38	250.3029	Seal washer (rubber)	2
	39	253.1.30.227.0	Union nut	2
	40	250.3035	Spring gusset	2
	41 42	250,3036	Rubber plug 18 mm dia. X 20 Thrust spring	2
ļ	43	253.1.3039	Buffer ring (rubber) 45/33/15	2
	44	253.3008	Interior fork tube	2
	45	250.3028	Bottom guide bushing	2
	47	253,3030,2	Spring supporting tube compl.	2
	48 49	253.3053	Shap ring Sg 24X1,2 DIN 472 Valve stop	2
	50	253.3052	Damper spring	2
	51 52	253.2.30.051.	\|\| Ring valve 23,6/18,5/0,3 (replaces 253.3051) \|- Bottom joint of fork leg (replaces 253.3010)	2
	52a	900.3866	Grooved ring sleeve	2
	53	250,3025	Washer 17/7,5/2,5	2
	55	330,1.20.052.0	Lock (with 2 keys)	1
	56	350.2.30.023.1	Spare key (please, quote key number!)	\| -
	57 58	330.1.20.060.1	AL-noiched river Thrust spring	1
	59	253.1.30.228.1	Rubber boot	2
	60	700.1.08.095.1	Hose clamp lock	4
	61	700.1.08.096.8	Hose clamp clip bottom 370 long p.m.	as requi

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Page 80

HANDLEBAR, BOWDEN CABLES

www.Manualslib.com manuals search en

Page 81

HANDLEBAR, BOWDEN CABLES

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
Ref. No. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 22 60 27 28 9 30 32 33 6 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 64	Part No. 366.1.32.006.0 050.3222 366.1.32.006.1 24773 22804 403.1.32.042.1 253.2.3209 253.2.3208 900.1503 366.1.32.007.0 403.1.32.021.1 366.1.32.007.0 403.1.32.036.1 366.1.32.032.0 403.1.32.034.2 403.1.32.035.1 366.1.32.031.1 403.1.32.041.1 366.1.32.001.0 366.1.32.001.0 366.1.32.001.1 270.1.65.000.0 24774 24384 25483 403.1.61.012.1 270.1.65.000.0 250.6010 24774 24385 260.2.6200.2 250.6204 250.6207 26821 250.6207 26821 250.6208 26569 270.1.63.000.0 16639 11733 366.1.62.010.0 050.2.6203	Pescription Hand lever left compl. Lens head screw M 6X15 Hand lever left Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 934. Toothed disz J 6,4 DIN 6797 Hand lever bracket left Adjusting nut Adjusting screw Lens head screw M 6X10 DIN 923 Hand lever right compl. Hand lever right compl. Hand lever right pipt compl. Support Twist grip body-top part Brake spring with screw Twist grip body-bottom part Lens head screw M 5X15 DIN 920 Washer 43 ∅ Twist grip cover right (black) Twist grip cover left (black) Twist grip cover left (black) Twist grip cover left (black) Twist grip cover left (black) Magura handlebar (separate) Clamp rubber Carburettor control cable compl. (wire 930, covering 805 mm) Adjusting screw (M 7) Hexagon nut M 7 DIN 934 Nipple holder Ferule Soldering nipple Oil pump cable compl. (wire 1090, covering 940 mm) Cable socket Threaded nipple M 10X1 Soldering nipple Clutch control cable compl. (wire 1280, covering 730 mm) Reducing shell Shackle for tube Pressure grease (alemite) nipple (M 6) Tube for clutch control cable Silt nipple holder Soldering nipple Brake cable compl. (wire 1050, covering 790 mm) Adjusting screw for brake cable (M 7) Cable strip Oil nipple Ferule	1212211222111111112111111364621111312111132

Page 82

Page 83

FRONT WHEEL

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Regud. No.
\|	253.4000.0	Front wheel compl. (without tires) with chrome plated rim	1
- 1	253.4002.0	Front wheel full hub compl. with interior parts	1
1	253.4015.0	Brake shoes compl. with lining	1
2	175.4119	Brake shoe spring	2
3	253,4017	Brake lining	2
4	26814	Tubular rivet 3mm dia. X8	16
5	253,4107	Brake cover plate	1
6	22872	Hexagon head screw M 6X30 DIN 931	1
7	175.4011.2	Brake operating lever	1
8	24795	Washer 6,4 DIN 125	2
9	26834	Spring ring B 6 DIN 127	1
10	900,2106	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 555	1
11	250.4010	Seal ring 22/11/3 (rubber)	1
12	253,4009	Brake cam	1
13	26821	Pressure grease (alemite) nipple	1
14	18931	Washer 6,5/10/1,5 (as required)	1
15	253,4021	Seal washer 47 mm dia. (rubber)	2
16	900,6204	Deep-row ball bearing 6204 47/20/14 DIN 625 (left-hand side)	1
16a	900.6214	Deep-row ball bearing with cover plate 6204 Z 47/20/14 DIN 625 (right-hand side)	1
17	253.4124	Guide disc 47 mm dia.	2
18	253.4123	Spacer, 58 long	1
19	253.4103	Brake hub	1
20	253.4020	Side cover	1
20a	253.1.4019	Cover disc 64 mm dia.	1
21	900,4747	Snap ring Sg 47X1,75 DIN 472	1
22	253,4117	Intermediate ring	1
23	250.4026.2	Front wheel axle (stub axle)	1
24	253.4130	Spoke M 4X103	36
25	26669	Nipple M 4	36
26	253.4133	Drop center rim 1,85 BX16 chrome (identical with 254.4133)	1
27	900,0830	Chasing strip 16"	1
28	901.0847	Inner tube 2,75/3,00—16''	1
29	901.0846	Grooved tire 3,00—16" for front tire	1
			1

7 --- 35

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Page 84

Page 85

REAR WHEEL, REAR CHAIN


Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requ No
	253,4100.0	Rear wheel compl. (without tire)
		with rim chrome plated	1
-	253.4102.0	Rear wheel full hub compl. (with interior parts and flexible
1	253 4103	coupling) Brake hub	1
2	253.4123	Spacer tube, 58 long	1
3	253.4124	Guide disc 47	2
4	900.6204	Deep-row ball bearing 6204 47/20/14 DIN 625	2
5	253.4021	Seal ring 47 mm dia. (rubber)	3
6	253.4015.0	Pair of brake shoes with lining	1
/	175.4119	Brake shoe spring	2
õ	253,4017	Brake lining Tubulan ningt 2 num dia a D	2
10	253 /107	Brake cover plate.	16
11	253,4121	Clamp shell left	1
12	253.4139	Disc 40 mm dia.
13	253.4125	Collar nut (M 27X1.5)
14	253.4111.2	Brake operating lever	1
15	24804	Washer 6,4 DIN 433
16	26834	Spring ring B 6 DIN 127	\| 1
17	900.2106	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 555	\| 1
1ŏ 40	2642/	Hexagon head screw M 6X35 DIN 933
20	250,4010	Seal ring 22/11/3 (rubber)
20	26821	Pressure greate (glemite) ninnla
22	18931	Washer 6 5/10/1 5 (as required)
23	253,4009	Brake cam
24	253.4118	Bolt (M 8) for flexible coupling
25	26819	Spring ring B 8 DIN 127
26	24775	Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 934
27	250.4115	Rubber ring 55/50/3	\| •
28	900.4747	Snap ring Sg 47X1,75 DIN 472	;
29	253.4117	Intermediate ring	\| ·
31	200.4120.2	Shap ring Sa 25X1 2 DIN (71
32	900.6005	Deep-row hall begring 6005 47/25/12 DIN 625
33	253,4122	Clamp shell right
34	900.2108	Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 555
35	900.3211	Spring washer B 8 DIN 137
36	253.4110	Flexible coupling fixing bolt (M 8)
37	253.4114.2	Flexible coupling	1 '
30	253.4119		\| ·
40	253,4100	Flange Boar shrin spraskot (16 tosth) (secto)
40	( 175,4109	Rear chain sprocket (44 teeth)	\| '
40	4041.41.145.1	Rear chain sprocket (45 teeth) only for special order
	260.4109	Rear chain sprocket (48 teeth)
	253.4130	Spoke M 4X103	3
	26669	Nipple M 4	3
—	253.4133	Drop center rim 1,85 BX16, chrome plated
	900.0830	Chasing strip 16"
	900.0849	Tube 31/2-16"	\| •
	900.0848	Tire 3 ¹ / ₂ —16"	· ·
41	253.2810.0	Kear chain ½X5/16" Debutes at the 1/X5/16"	\| '
	407.1.28.214.0	Univing chain 1/2 XJ/10", 14 rollers, with connecting) only for
42	28429	Roller block jspecial ord.	\| -
10	28421	Connecting link
40	69741

Page 86

Page 87

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
_	270.1.50.000.0	Generator complete	1
1	251.2.5007.2	Regulator	\| 1
2	900.1328	Fillister head screw AM 4X12 DIN 84	1
.2	25433	Fillister head screw AM 4X6 DIN 84	\| 1
3	900.3941	Washer 9/5/0,1	\| 1
6	250,5009.2	Terminal plate	\| 1
	27453	Attachment screw M 4,5X7,5 ) for terminal
\|\|	250.5313	Terminal plug ∫ plate as requ.
7	28183	Round head rivet 3,5X8 DIN 660	1
8	900.3003	Washer 9/3,7/0,5	\| 1
9	250,5005.2	Armaiure with winding	\| 1
10	250.5024	Intermediate nut (M 8)	\| 1
11	28161	Armature fastening bolt M 8X65 — 10 K	.1
12	250.5008.2	Field coil compl.	\| 1
13	27440	Thrust spring for carbon brush	2
14	270.1.50.025.2	Carbon brush	2
15	25433	Fillister head screw AM 4×6 DIN 84	5
16	22796	Spring ring B 4 DIN 127	5
17	27475	Lubricator felt pad	1
18	27511	Round head rivef 2,6X4 DIN 660	\| 1
20	253.5013.2	Contakt-breaker base
		(riveted to generator body, only as may be required)	-
21	253.5016.2	Contact plate	1
1 22	25433	Fillister head screw AM 4X6 DIN 84	\| 1
	900.3202	Spring washer A 4 DIN 137	\| 1
23	27441	Contakt-breaker lever	\| 1
24	2477 1	Hexagon nut M 4 DIN 934	2
25	24793	Washer 4,3 DIN 125	2
26	253.5019	Insulating shell 6/4,2 mm dia.	\| 1
27	253,5020	Insulating disc 13/6,2/1,5	2
28	23284	Hexagon head screw M 4X20 DIN 933	1
29	27513	Cable socket	\| 1
30	27502	Washer (as required)	2
or	24806	Washer 8,4 DIN 433	\| 2
31	900.1307	Fillister head screw AM 8X20 DIN 84	2
32	27450	Condenser	\| 1
33	171.5012	Cover for Generator	1
34	27460	Lens head countersunk screw AM 4X12 DIN 88	2
			Ì

Page 88

HEAD LAMP WITH ELECTRIC IDLE GEAR INDICATOR, SPEEDOMETER, BATTERY, HORN, IGNITION COIL

7 — 40

Page 89

SEARS MOTOR CYCLE-MODEL 810.89571 AND 810.89572 HEAD LAMP WITH ELECTRIC IDLE GEAR INDICATOR, SPEEDOMETER, BATTERY, HORN, IGNITION COIL

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
1	270 6 53 000 0/90	Headlamp 170 mm dia compl (silver)	1
2	270.6.53.000.0/70	Headlamp housing (silver)
3	270.6.53.002.2	Sealed beam 45/40 W, 170 mm dia.	1	- 41
4	270.6.53.003.0	Headlamp rim compl.	1	10
5	270.6.53.005.1	Seal ring	1
6	366.1.53.006.0	Triple plug compl.	1
7	366.1.53.007.2	Control lens (red)	\| 1 \|
7a	270.6.53.007.2	Control lens (green)	1
8	366,1.53,008,0	Contact bracket compl.	2
9	366.1.53.009.1	Shim	2
10	366.1.53.010.1	Serrated lock washer 11/17	2
11	366.1.53.011.1	Hexagon nut (M 11)
12	902.0746	Fastoon bulb 6 V, 0,6 W DIN 72601, form M
13	270.6.53.013.1	Rubber seal
14	900.1714	Round head screw (1/8"x12)
15	900,3203
16	900.1104	Hexagon head screw M 8X25 DIN 955
17	20819		2
10	300,1,53,010,1	Distance washer knurled	2
17 20	270.0.00.019.1	lapition switch complete (with ignition key)
20 91	270.0.33.020.0	lanition key
21	270.0.33.021.1	Fastoon hulb 6 V 3 W DIN 72601, form M
23	250 4115	Rubber aasket 55/50/3 for speedometer
24	250 5324 9	Built-in speedometer (clockwise rotation 90 mph.)
24 1	250 5321	Ring
24h	250 5322	Glass
24c	270.1.53.026.1	Sticker for built-in speedometer	\| i \|
25	102.1.5340.0	Electric dimmer switch compl.
25 a	102.1.53.041.1	Pressure button	as requel.
26	11733	Cable clamp	3
27	270,6.53,027,1	Grommet (for dimmer switch)	\| 1 \|
28	270.6.53.028.1	Grommet (for light circuit)	1
29	28772	Cable socket (grommet) (for speedometer drive)	\| 1 \|
31	270.2.57.100.0	Lighting cable assembly compl.	1
32	11686	Shackle for lighting cable
33	128.5601	Pressure plate
34	175.2.56.001.2	Terminal eyelet with cable
35	270.1.56.001.0	Battery 6 B 8 (Elbak)
36	128.5603	Battery support
37	1/5.5/09.2	Ground cable (with Sigma eyelets, 150 lang)
3/a	21061	Sigma eyelet	1
38	24603	Channel agroup AN Evel DIN 84
39 70	23020	Cheese head screw ANI 5X6 DIN 64
40 61	200,0020	Speedometer drive shaft	4
41	250,5325,0	Speedometer drive shaft (core alone)
410	171 1 56 000 0	Horn Bosch 6 V (0.320.020.001)		ĺ
42 1	253 1 56 263 1/30	Mounting bracket (black)	1
43	175.5701	Terminal block (separate)	1
44	253.5703.2	Terminal block carrier	1
45	27513	Cable socket	· \| 1 \|
46	902.0743	Cable plug	2
47	900.0717/07	Spark plug cable (605 resp. 665 long) p. m.
48	28664	Cable socket for ignition coil (if required)
49	900.0745	Outer screw socket	2
50	900.0746	Pressure sleeve	2
51	900.0747	Rubber clamp shell	2
52	25396	Cable socket for ignition coil	4	1
53	900.0706	Ignition coil 3 V 40 mm dia.	2
54	900,2106	Hexagon nut M 6 DIN 555	2
55	26834	Spring ring B 6 DIN 127	2
56	255.5203.2	Ignition coil shackle	1
57	255.5203	Ignition coil shackle	1
58	170.5307	Soft rubber terminal (single-row), for idle gear		1
	54 4 5700	indicator and headlamp cable	1	l
	11 51 1 5703	Soft rubber (two-rows)	1	1
58 c		Charles the second
58c	253.5520.0	Stoplight switch compl. with shackles	1

Sears 250 SGS - 66/16

Page 90

Page 91


Ref. No,	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.
_	253.2.70.010.0	Set of tools complete	1
1	250,7003,2	Box spanner 14/21	-1
2	350.1.70.000.1	Spanner 6/7	1
3	350.1.70.005.1	Spanner 8/10	1
4	350.1.70.010.1	Spanner 9/11	1
5	19616	Spanner 12/14 DIN 895	1
5α	900.7011	Spanner 13/15 DIN 895	1
6	350.1.70.025.1	Spanner 14/17	1
7	25512	Spanner 19/22 DIN 895	1
8	22138	Tool roll (skiver)	1
9	250,7008	Box spanner for cylinder head screws	1
10	21089	Grip, 72 long	1
11	25968	Box spanner 11	1
12	17779	Contact breaker spanner and gauge	1
13	253.7001.2	Box spanner for lateral spark plug	1
14	250,7001.2	Box spanner for top spark plug, front and rear stub-axles	1
15	250.7024.2	Tire pump	as requd.
16	150,7023,2	Tire pump tube (290 long) \| not included	os requd.
17	250.7025.2	Plug screw	as requid.
18	250,7005	Pronged spanner	1
19	21383	Grip for pronged spanner, 170 long	1
20	21006	Screw driver	1
21	21008	Combination pliers	1
22	250,7006	Spanner, 32 wide, for rear wheel	1
23	250.7009	Spanner, 27 wide, for fron' fork screw cover	1
24	10183	Wrench 15/21 DIN 895	1
25	250.7050.0	Pressure grease gun	1
26	253,7003	Tire lever	2
27	250.2825.0	Half link	1
28	270.0.00.661.6	Service Manual (Parts List)	1
29	900.0208/10	Touch-up paint, black ¹ / ₈ kg (0,276 lbs) not included (RAL 9005)	as regud.
29	900.0212/10	Touch-up paint, red 1/8 kg (0,276 lbs) not included (RAL 3002)	as reque.
29	900.0261/10	Touch-up paint, silver 1/8 kg (0,276 lbs) not included (Puch 9006)	as requé.


40	810.000	Metric Assortment (Nut, bolt and screw Assortment)	as
		not included	requd.

Page 92

Ref. No.	Part. No.	Description	Requd, No.
-	403.1.16.000.9	Accessory exhaust kit (Stock number 7533) with all parts as illustrated
	403.1.16.008.0	Bourgess left-hand side compl. (with parts 5—10)	1
, ·	403.1.16.009.0	Bourgess right-hand side compl. (with parts 5-10)	1
1	403,1.16.001.2	Exhaust pipe left-hand side	1
1	403.1.16.002.2	Exhaust pipe right-hand side	1
2	253.3.1605	Gasket for exhaust	2
5	403.1.16.017.2	Center pipe	2
6	403.1.16.008.2	Covering pipe left-hand side	1
6	403.1,16.009.2	Covering pipe right-hand side	1
7	403.1.16.023.2	Exhaust endpiece	2
8	22972	Round-head screw M 5X10 DIN 86	4
9	29190	Spring ring B 5 DIN 127	4
10	900.2105	Hexagon nut M 3 DIN 555	4
11	406.2.16.050.1	Bolt	2
12	24789	Hexagon nut M 10X1 DIN 934	2
13	29192	Spring ring B 10 DIN 127	2
(12)	24775	Hexagon nut M 8 DIN 934	2
(13)	26819	Spring ring B 8 DIN 127	2
14	900.3101	Washer 18/10,5/2	2
15	406.1.16.051.1	Intermediate disc	4

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7 — 44

Page 93

Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd. No.	Ref. No.	Part No.	Description	Requd, No.
1	22733	Dismantling tool (for armature of dynamo)	1	14	905.0.15.001.1	Hooked spanner (for the steering blocking the lock nut on
3	250.1000.0-W18	Protecting sleeve for crankshaft assembly (placed on the left end of crankshaft protects the		15	251.7013	fork end) Dismaniling tool M 40X1,5 (for engine sprocket on I. h. side of	1
4	250.7011.2	oil seal) Dismantling ring (to push out crankshaft bearing on dy-	1	16	253.1032.5-L 1	crankshaft and gear sprocket) Distance gauge for crankshaft (put crankshaft into left half of crank-	1
5	250.7012	namo side) Special spanner (for nut on fork	1			case, place the gauge on joint face and measure to crankshaft collar.Reduce the play by shims)	1
6	250.7015	Square spanner (for cylinder head bolts)	1	17	253.7014	Clutch hub holder (locking the clutch for unscrewing and tigh-
7	250.7017	Engine reception yoke (to be clamped in a vice)	1	18	253.7023	fening the nut) Sprocket holder (refaining the	1
8 10	905.1.25.102.2 250.7021	Screw driver Special spanner (for union of telescopic front forks)	1			unscrewing and tightening the nut)	1
11	250.7027	Pin for ignition adjustment (locating the crankshaft in its		19	253.7031	Sprocket lock (for locking the primary chain drive when un-
12	905.1.40.003.0	slot at the moment of ignition) Spoke spanner	1	20	905.0.32.601.2	screwing the nut of engine sprocket and of clutch hub) Regulator adjusting spanner	1

Sears 250 SGS -- 66/16

7 — 45

Page 94

Sears 810.89571, 810.89572 Setting Up Instructions And Parts List

SETTING-UP INSTRUCTIONS MAINTENANCE MANUAL REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS AND PARTS LIST FOR

MOTOR CYCLE

MODEL NUMBERS 810 89571 AND 810 90572

HOW TO ORDER REPAIR PARTS

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. U.S.A. SIMPSONS-SEARS, LTD. CANADA

BATTERY SERVICE INSTRUCTION for Types 6 B 7 and 6 B 8

Final Work

SEARS MOTORCYCLE

Contents

Section 1 SPECIFICATIONS

Engine

Battery-Ignition-Lighting

Gearbox

Total Transmission:

Chain

Wheels

Tire pressure

Front and rear brake

Fuel tank

Performance Data

Measurements

Weights

The torque figures for tightening bolts and screws are:

Section 2 SETTING-UP INSTRUCTIONS

Opening the Crate

Primary Preparing Works

Final Work

Section 3 OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE

OPERATING TIPS

"Break-in" Instructions

OPERATING TIPS

Important!

Fuel

Lubricatina oil

Footopered gearshift lever

Lighting switch

Filler caps

Steering-lock

PIDING TIPS

Sundry hints

Starting the engine

Stopping the engine

Riding and gear changing

Brakes

Removal of wheels

Tire fitting (fig. 6)

Steering damper

Riding hints

IMPORTANT HINTS

The engine knocks

Adjusting the carburettor

Spark plua

Muffler (Silencer)

INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT

Daily Inspection

Maintenance

Lubrication

Adjusting the oil pump

Lubrication of gearbox

Telescope front fork

Swing fork rear wheel springing

Dismantling the damping cylinder (see Repair Instructions)

Other parts to be lubricated:

Chains

Contact-breaker of the dynamo

Twist grip

Care of tires

Checking, Adjusting, Cleaning

Every 500 miles

Chain Tension

OPERATING AND MAINTENANCE

Clutch

Brake adjustment

Every 1500 miles

Every 3000 miles

Check steering play

Adjusting the twist grip

Adjusting the headlamp

Cleaning