Sears 385. 12714, 385. 12708, 385. 12710, 385. 12712 User Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

S_FA/RS

SEWING MACHINE

MODELS 385. 12708

385. 12710

385. 12712

385. 12714

SEARS CANADA INC.

Dear Customer:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate

and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.

Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number

are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of this booklet.

Model No. 385. Serial No

Retain these numbers for future reference.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

TABLE OFCONTENTS

SECTION 1.

SECTION 2.

SECTION 3.

KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avaialble .............. 3

Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 3_4

Identify the Accessories ........................ 4

PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_7

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... S

• Foot Control Use .......................... 5

• Setting Spool Pins .......................... 6

• Adjust the PresserFoot Lever .................. 6

• Thread Cutter ............................ 6

• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table . . . 7

• AccessoriesStorage Box ' 7

• Change the PresserFoot ...................... 7

Choose the Needle and Thread ................. 7_8

• To Change the Needle ....................... 7

• Check the Needle .......................... B

• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ...... 8

Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 9_10

• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ...... 9

• Wind the Bobbin ....................... 9_10

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ........... 10

Prepare the Top Thread ..................... 11_12

• Thread the Needle ........................ 11

• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread .................. 12

Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 13_14

ReverseStitch Control ........................ 14

Stitch Selector ............................. 15

Stitch Length Control ........................ 16

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ................. 16

Starting To Sew ............................ 17

LEARN THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches .......................... 18_22

• Straight Stitch ........................... 18

• Usethe Seam Guides ....................... 18

• Turn a Square Corner ...................... 18

• Topstitching ............................ 19

• Left Needle Position ....................... 19

• Sew in a Zipper ........................ 20_21

• Use the Darning Plate ...................... 22

• Darning ............................... 22

Zigzag Stitches ........................... 23_30

• Basic Zigzag ............................. 23

• Satin Stitch ............................. 24

• Applique ............................... 25

• Bar Tacklng ............................. 25

• Sew a Button ............................ 26

• Overcasting Stitch ......................... 27

• Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 28

• LaceWork .............................. 28

• Blind Hemming .......................... 29

• Shell Stitching (Models 12712and 12714) ........ 30

• Box Stitching (Model 12714 only) .............. 30

Stretch Stitches .......................... 31 _33

• Straight Stretch .......................... 31

• Rick-Ruck Stretch ........................ 31

• Smocking .............................. 32

• Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 32

• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching

(Models 12712 and 12714) ................... 33

• Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12714 only) ......... 33

Buttonholes ............................. 34_35

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When ........................ 36_37

SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... 38

Cleaning the Machine ...................... 38_39

• Clean the Feed Dogs ....................... 38

• Clean the Shuttle Race ..................... 39

Oiling the Machine .......................... 40

• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and Under

Arm Cover Plate .......................... 40

• Oil the Underside ......................... 40

PARTS LIST ........................................ 41

INDEX ............................................ 42

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available

A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog, Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . . . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-

where.

Locate and Identify the Parts

Take-up Lever

Bobbin Winding Tension Disc

Top Thread Tension Control

Face Cover Plate

Thread Cutter

Needle Plate

Upper Thread Guide Thread Spool Pins

Bobbin Winding Spindle

Stitch Length Control

Reverse Stitch Control

Stitch Selector

Extension Table

(Accessory storage box)

Shuttle Cover

SECTION 1. KNOWTHEMACHINE

Identify the Accessories

Arm Cover Plate

Hand Wheel

Auto Clutch Kno _i_

Light and

power Switch

Plug Connector __

Carrying Handle

_ Nomenclature Plate

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Need le set /_I lI'_

__ittonhole opener

(_ Large screw driver

Sliding

buttonhole foot

Zipperfoot

Lint brush

Presser Foot

Foot Control

_mall screw driver

Straight stitch foot

Satin stitch

foot

Set Up the Machine

Plugin theMachineandSwitchon thePower

Power supply plug

switch Power

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Foot Control Use

Power _1 _[_

Plug

connector

Machine plug

NOTE:

Before inserting the plug into your

machine, be sure the power switch is OFF.

Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet.

Insert the machine plug into the three-prong

plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one

way.

Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

supply

light

Foot control

Power swltch

4, Push the light and power switch to turn

on the power and sewing light,

SAFETY FEATURE:

Your machine will not operate unless the light/power switch is turned on. If you are

interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the light/power switch to prevent injury to

children.

The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew.

To increase speed, gentry press down with the ball of your foot.

To decrease speed, release your foot pres-

sure slightry.

NOTE:

The foot control is sensitive and

will increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately.

Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to

your taste and needs.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Setting Spool Pins

Spool pin

The spool pins are used for holding the

spools of thread when feeding thread to the machine.

To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down

for storage.

Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

Normal up __._

position

High

position

'Presser foot

lever

positior

position

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot.

You can raise it about 1/4""higher than the normal

up position for easy removal of the presserfoot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot.

• Thread Cutter

Jtter

You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the

thread after you finish sewing. Just use the

handy thread cutter. Pull the threads to lengthen several inches

before starting the next seam.

SECTION 2.

PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table

• Accessory Storage Box

To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage

(for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you.

1. Grip the table with your index finger Sewing accessories are conveni-

and thumb, as shown,

2. Pull gently to the left. The extension

table will snap out.

To Attach the Extension Table (for flat*bed sewing)

1. Insert the tab and the pin into their

catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger,

gently snap in.

ently located in the box.

• Change the Presser Foot

Use the correct presser foot for

the stitch you wish to sew.

To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its

highest position by lifting the presserfoot lever.

Loosen the presser foot thumb

screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom.

Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure.

Choose the Needle and Thread

• To Change the Needle

(

_",_"k Needle clamp screw

•-._ /

Flat

side

away

from you

NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest

I, Loosen the needle clamp screw by

turning it toward you.

2, Remove the needle by pulling it down-

ward.

3. Insert the new needle into the needle

clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly

with the rarge screwdriver from the

accessory box.

,_i

position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart

II _- , 1

L- i r

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.

rn the needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded

needles:

Blue (11 ) ......... for stretch fabrics.

Orange (11) ........ for lightweight fabrics.

Red (14) .......... for medium or medium-heavy

weight fabrics.

Purple (16) ........ for medium-heavy weight fabrics

and decorative topstitehing on these fabrics. (This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching thread.)

Green (18) ........ for heavy weight fabrics and

decorative top-stitching on these fabrics.

Replacement Kenmore needles ere available at your nearest Sears

store.

• Check the Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.

FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE STITCH LENGTH

Lightweight : Polyester Core/Cotton 2

Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Wrap (12 stitches per

Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, 11-ORANGE Fine Mercerized Cotton inch) Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Silk A

Organdy

Medium Weight:

Cotton, Cotton Blend, 50 Mercerized Cotton Percale, Gingham, Polyester Core/Cotton 2--2.5

Shantung, Pique, 14-RED Wrap per inch) Seersucker, Satin, Knit, Silk A

Suit ings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy Weight: 50 Mercerized Cotton

Corduroy, Den ira, Wool, 14oR ED Mercerized Heavy-Duty 2--3 Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, or Polyester Core/Cotton (8-10 stitches Gabardine, Velvet, 16-PURPLE Wrap per inch)

Leather Silk A

Heavy Weight: Cotton 3

Coating, Upholstery 18-GREEN Polyester Core/Cotton (S stitches per Cotton Duck, Heavy Wrap inch)

Twills, Canvas Silk A

Decorative top-stitching 16-PURPLE Buttonhole Twist 16-8 stitches on all types of fabric 18-GREEN (Use as top thread only) per inch)

Stretch Fabric: 11-BLUE

Polyester Double Knit, (STRETCH Polyester Core/Cotton 2-2.5 Nylon Tricot, Jersey, FABRIC Wrap (10-12 stitches

Stretch Terry, Spandex, NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton per inch) Cire Tricot

NEEDLE RECOMMENDED

COLOR SETTING

110-12 stitches

Heavy Duty Mercerized

3--4

Prepare the Bobbin

• To Removethe BobbinCasefrom the Machine

Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the

left. Open the shuttle cover by

pulling down the embossed part on

the left side of the cover.

Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand wheel toward you.

To remove bobbin case from shut- tle, pull open latch of bobbin case.

Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

• Wind the Bobbin

Release clutch by turning the

clutch knob inside the hand wheel toward you to stop the needle from

moving while you wind the bobbin.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

Draw thread from spool through bobbin winding tension disc as shown.

Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown.

Place bobbin onto bobbin winding spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin winding spindle to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of

thread, start machine, When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread.

Insert the Bobbin into the Bol bin Case

Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pull thread under tension

making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening

wise and is coming from as shown above. Pull 3 to4 bobbin as shown, inches of thread from bobbin.

Wind thread until winder stops. Push bobbin winding spindle to the

left and clip thread. Remove bobbin.

Turn clutch knob away from you

while holding hand wheel for normal sewing operation.

Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place case into shuttle and release when latch isreleased.

latch.

Prepare the Top Thread

• Thread the Needle

ILuLf_

The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations.

Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled tight.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever.

Place spool on spool pin asshown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.

1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.

2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.

3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left,

4. Draw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide.

5. Thread needle from front to back.

NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Pick Up the Bobbin Thread

1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate

handwheel toward you one complete turn.

If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:

1. Is needle threaded from front to back?

2. Is thread tangled around needle?

3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?

4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?

5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?

6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling

top thread.

3. Pull both threads under and to the

back of the presser foot, leaving 4

to 6 inches of thread clear.

Adjust the Top Thread Tension

Top side of fabric

Top

_hread

Bobbin

Setting mark

Tighten

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Choose the Correct Tension: The best tension will depend on;

the stiffness and thickness of the fabric

--~ the number of fabric layers

--- the type of stitch

The top thread

is too loose.

The top thread

is too tight

For Straight Stitch

The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of

fabric, asshown above, magnified to show detail.

If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no

gaps,that each stitch issmooth and even.

When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread.

o%°

The top thread appears on the

underside of the fabric.

Tension istoo loose: Tension is too tight: The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through

bottom of the fabric. The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of of the stitch will feel bumpy, the stitch will feel bumpy.

The bobbin thread appears on the

upper surface of the fabric.

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