OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE
MODELS 385. 1155180
or
385. 1154180
or
385. 1011180
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear CustomeP:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before us]rig your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the,best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
AdvTce on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record in space provided below the model number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385. Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future r'eference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1.
SECTION 2.
SECTION 3.
KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. 2
Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 2_3
Identify the Accessories ........................ 3
PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ......................... 4_6
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............. 7_8
Choose Your NeedLe and Thread ............... 9_10
Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 11_13
Prepare Your Top Thread .................... 14_15
Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 16_17
Stitch Selector ............................. 18
Stitch Length Control ........................ 18
Reverse Stitch Control ........................ t8
Starting To Sew ............................ 19
LEARN THE STITCHES
Practical Stitch Chart ...................... 20_21
Straight Stitches .......................... 22_23
Darning ................................. 24
Straight Stretch ............................ 24
Zigzag Stitches ........................... 25_31
• Basic Zigzag ............................. 25
• Satin Stitch ............................. 26
• Applique ............................... 27
• Bar Tacking ............................. 27
• Monogramming .......................... 28
• Embroidery ............................. 28
• Sew a Button ............................ 29
• Overcasting Stitch ......................... 30
• Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ 30
• Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 31
Buttonholes ............................. 32_33
Sew in a Zipper .......................... 34_35
Smocking ................................ 36
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When ......................... 37_38
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... 39
Cleaning the Machine ...................... 39_40
Oiling the Machine ........................ 41_42
PARTS LIST ........................................ 43
INDEX ............................................ 44
_jA<Pbrtab le;Gase:o_r_._6ab!net !fs:A vadab le_._:,
A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another option . , . buy a Carrying Case . . . then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where.
f
_1r_Lobate:and r!dentlfy _the_P_,ts:
Take up Lever Stitch Selector
Bobbin W;nder Tension D_sc
Up per Th read Guide
Top Thread Tension Control
Face Cover Plate
Needle Plate
Shuttle Cover
2
SpooEPins
Top Cover
Accessory box
nt brush
Thread Guide
ClutchKnob
Hand Wheel
Lcght and
Power Switch
Plug Connector
Foot Control
Presser Foot
Nomenclature Plate
Presser Foot Lever
Free Arm
Thread Guide
Thread Guide
Need le Clarqp
Bobbin
Needle set
Darning plate_
Straight
stitch foo:
footSatinstitch
S
_nhofe opener
_rge screw driver
_1 screw driver
)_ Spool pin felt
* But[onhole
guide foot
* Model 11551 only 3
._,_.-_ -_ _X__'_- _,_< _._._';'__ :,_;;._ o,_-_.-.',_,.
. Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
f
Power supply plug
Power
switch
\
\
supply
\
Machine
socket
Machine
plug
NOTE:
1, Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120
2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch is
OFF.
Volt AC outlet.
outlet, as shown. It wilt only fit one way.
,°..°,,<
4. Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light,
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power switch is turned on. If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power switch to prevent injury to
children.
Foot Control Use
_I-] .'; "- "" _-"
/
Foot control
The foot control regulates the speed at
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot.
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
sure slightly,
NOTE:
The foot control is sensitive and
will increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
J
Setting Spool Pins
\ Spool pin felt
Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
To remove:
IIL 0°°'0'n
Spool Pins are packed in accessory box.
Screw spool pins in place securely with a
screw d river.
Position sppo! pin felts as shown in illustra-
tion.
H=gh
position
\
Norrnal
position • ,
Presser foot _-_-_,';;'
lever Normal up
High position
pos[tiof_'_ k,
J
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers
your presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than
normal up position for easy removal of the
presser foot or to help you place heavy
fabrics under the presser foot.
To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing)
1, Grip the table with your index finger,and thumb, as shown.
2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.
J
To Attach :
To Attach the Extension Table (for flat-bed sewing)
1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.
2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.
• Free-Arm Sewing (Continued)
Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing.
This feature makes sewing easy for:
* bar tacking to reinforce pockets,
belt loops and waistline on ready-
made or homemade garments to
avoicl fabric bunching around the
needle.
6
* stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant * darning socks or mending knees,
legs, or any circular garment area. elbows, or areas of wear in child
ren's clothes.
sewing buttons on sleeves, waist-
bands, etc.
z_'-__-_-_ %_'C_._ _-_ _,-"_- _ _ '_= _ ._"J-_'_ "_',;_z;_:_ ,_-_-_ ?T_." ,_ _ ._.
'_ _ ____4:=_:__;_z.Z; -_._2___ _o_.¢__, _._ ___ _ ":__:_'.-%-__- ' L_
The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively.
• Change the Presser Foot
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch
• Presser Foot Types
Zigzag Foot Straight Foot
you wish to sew. Consult the practical
Stitch Chart on pages 20 _ 21 and the
detailed directions for sewing with the
various presser feet.
Ztgzag foot
s
!
To change the various presser feet, raise the
presser bar to its highest position by lifting
the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser
foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw
using the large screw driver to make certain
the foot is secure.
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag
stitching.
Uses:
Straight stitching (see p. 2_22),
Topstitching (see p. 23),
Straight stretch (see p. 24),
Zigzag stitching (see p. 25),
Bar tacking (see p. 2j),
Button sewing (see p. 2__9_9),
Overcasting stitch (see p. 30),
Rick-Rack stretch (see p. 30),
Three-step zigzag [see p. 3__11),
Smocking (see p. 3__66)
Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching
using center needle position only.
Uses: Stratight stitching (see p. 22),
Straight sti%ch foot
Topstitching (see p. 23_),
Stratight stretch (see p. 24)
• Presser Foot Types (Continued)
Satin Stitch Foot
f
Zipper Foot
4-
Buttonhole Guide Foot (Model 11551 only)
Satin stitch foot
Use this foot for satin stitch and oultining
applique and Buttonhole making.
Uses: Satin stitch (see p. 26),
Applique (see p. 27),
Monogramming (see p. 28)
Zipper foot
This foot can be set to sew on each side of
your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the
zipper and keep the seam straight,
Uses: Zipper application (see p. 3#,)
Buttonhole guide fool
Use this foot for buttonholes. It is marked
to measure your buttonholes accurately.
Uses: Buttonhole making (see p. 3__2)
(Built-in method)
Yourchoiceofneedleandthreaddependson the fabric you are sewing.
In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:
Blue (1 1) ............ for stretch fabrics
Orange (1 1) .......... for lightweight fabrics
Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics
Purple (16) .......... for medium-heavy weight and decorative
topstitching on these fabrics
(This needle has a larger thread hole for
thicker topstitching thread.)
Green (18) .......... for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-
stitching on these fabrics
• Check Your Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent in thickness.
To Change Your Needle
FABRIC
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Knits,
Vinyl Suitings, Linen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
Gabardine, Velvets,
Leather
Heavy Weight:
Coatings, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative top-stitching
on all types of fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Knits,
Nylon Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cire Tricot
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
11-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
with"QFOOT"
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Core!Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Sitk A
Buttonhole Twist
(Use as top thread only)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
12 stitches per
inch
10 _ 12 stitches
per inch
8 _ 10 stitches
per inch
8 stitches per
inch
6 _ 8 stitches per
mch
t0 -_ 12 stitches
per inch
Flat
sfde
away
from
yoJ
" L
.... f ;
Needle clamp screw
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-
tion by turning the hand wheel toward
you.
1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling it downward.
3. insert the new needle into the needle clamp
with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the
large screwdriver from your accessory box.
10
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
r = f
Remove the extension table from
the machine by pulling it to the
left. Open the shuttle cover by
puIIing down the embossed part on
To remove bobbin case from shut-
tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.
Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle.
the left side of the cover,
Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating hand wheel toward you.
• Wind the Bobbin
Release clutch by turning clutch
knob toward you.
J
11
• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
f
Draw thread from spool through bobbin Pull end of thread through
winder tension disc as shown, bobbin as shown.
hole in
Place bobbin onto bobbin winder
spindle with end of thread coming from
the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin
winder shaft to the right until it clicks.
Holding onto end of thread, start ma-
chine. When bobbin is slightly filled,
snip off end of thread.
Wind thread until winder stops. Remove
bobbin. Clip thread.
Tighten clutch knob.
12
• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pult thread under tension Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place
making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release when latch is released.
wise and is coming from as shown above, latch.
bobbin as shown.
13