Sears 385.1154180 User Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

SEWING MACHINE

MODELS 385. 1155180

385. 1154180

385. 1011180

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Dear CustomeP:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before us]rig your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you

obtain the,best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

AdvTce on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of

this booklet.

Model No. 385. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future r'eference.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION 1.

SECTION 2.

SECTION 3.

KNOW YOUR MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. 2

Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 2_3

Identify the Accessories ........................ 3

PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine ......................... 4_6

Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............. 7_8

Choose Your NeedLe and Thread ............... 9_10

Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 11_13

Prepare Your Top Thread .................... 14_15

Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 16_17

Stitch Selector ............................. 18

Stitch Length Control ........................ 18

Reverse Stitch Control ........................ t8

Starting To Sew ............................ 19

LEARN THE STITCHES

Practical Stitch Chart ...................... 20_21

Straight Stitches .......................... 22_23

Darning ................................. 24

Straight Stretch ............................ 24

Zigzag Stitches ........................... 25_31

• Basic Zigzag ............................. 25

• Satin Stitch ............................. 26

• Applique ............................... 27

• Bar Tacking ............................. 27

• Monogramming .......................... 28

• Embroidery ............................. 28

• Sew a Button ............................ 29

• Overcasting Stitch ......................... 30

• Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ 30

• Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 31

Buttonholes ............................. 32_33

Sew in a Zipper .......................... 34_35

Smocking ................................ 36

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When ......................... 37_38

SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... 39

Cleaning the Machine ...................... 39_40

Oiling the Machine ........................ 41_42

PARTS LIST ........................................ 43

INDEX ............................................ 44

_jA<Pbrtab le;Gase:o_r_._6ab!net !fs:A vadab le_._:,

A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general

catalog. Another option . , . buy a Carrying Case . . . then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-

where.

_1r_Lobate:and r!dentlfy _the_P_,ts:

Take up Lever Stitch Selector

Bobbin W;nder Tension D_sc

Up per Th read Guide

Top Thread Tension Control

Face Cover Plate

Needle Plate

Shuttle Cover

SpooEPins

Top Cover

Accessory box

nt brush

Thread Guide

ClutchKnob

Hand Wheel

Lcght and

Power Switch

Plug Connector

Foot Control

Presser Foot

Nomenclature Plate

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Thread Guide

Need le Clarqp

Bobbin

Needle set

Darning plate_

Straight stitch foo:

footSatinstitch

_nhofe opener

_rge screw driver

_1 screw driver

)_ Spool pin felt

* But[onhole

guide foot

* Model 11551 only 3

._,_.-_ -_ _X__'_- _,_< _._._';'__ :,_;;._ o,_-_.-.',_,.

. Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

Power supply plug

Power switch

supply

Machine socket

Machine plug

NOTE:

1, Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120

2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong

3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is

OFF.

Volt AC outlet.

outlet, as shown. It wilt only fit one way.

,°..°,,<

4. Push the light and power switch to turn on the power and sewing light,

SAFETY FEATURE: Your machine will not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on. If you are

interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the light/power switch to prevent injury to

children.

Foot Control Use

_I-] .'; "- "" _-"

Foot control

The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew.

To increase speed, gently press down with the ball of your foot.

To decrease speed, release your foot pres- sure slightly,

NOTE:

The foot control is sensitive and will increase or decrease your

sewing speed immediately. Practice on a scrap of fabric to

regulate your sewing speed to

your taste and needs.

Setting Spool Pins

\ Spool pin felt

Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table To remove:

IIL 0°°'0'n

Spool Pins are packed in accessory box. Screw spool pins in place securely with a

screw d river. Position sppo! pin felts as shown in illustra-

tion.

H=gh position

Norrnal

position • ,

Presser foot _-_-_,';;' lever Normal up

High position pos[tiof_'_ k,

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers

your presser foot. You can raise it about 1/4" higher than

normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot.

To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing)

1, Grip the table with your index finger,and thumb, as shown.

2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.

To Attach :

To Attach the Extension Table (for flat-bed sewing)

1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

• Free-Arm Sewing (Continued)

Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing. This feature makes sewing easy for:

* bar tacking to reinforce pockets,

belt loops and waistline on ready- made or homemade garments to

avoicl fabric bunching around the needle.

* stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant * darning socks or mending knees,

legs, or any circular garment area. elbows, or areas of wear in child

ren's clothes.

sewing buttons on sleeves, waist- bands, etc.

z_'-__-_-_ %_'C_._ _-_ _,-"_- _ _ '_= _ ._"J-_'_ "_',;_z;_:_ ,_-_-_ ?T_." ,_ _ ._.

'_ _ ____4:=_:__;_z.Z; -_._2___ _o_.¢__, _._ ___ _ ":__:_'.-%-__- ' L_

The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively.

• Change the Presser Foot Use the correct presser foot for the stitch

• Presser Foot Types Zigzag Foot Straight Foot

you wish to sew. Consult the practical Stitch Chart on pages 20 _ 21 and the

detailed directions for sewing with the

various presser feet.

Ztgzag foot

To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting

the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain

the foot is secure.

Use this foot for both straight and zigzag stitching.

Uses:

Straight stitching (see p. 2_22), Topstitching (see p. 23), Straight stretch (see p. 24), Zigzag stitching (see p. 25),

Bar tacking (see p. 2j), Button sewing (see p. 2__9_9), Overcasting stitch (see p. 30), Rick-Rack stretch (see p. 30),

Three-step zigzag [see p. 3__11),

Smocking (see p. 3__66)

Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching using center needle position only.

Uses: Stratight stitching (see p. 22),

Straight sti%ch foot

Topstitching (see p. 23_), Stratight stretch (see p. 24)

• Presser Foot Types (Continued)

Satin Stitch Foot

Zipper Foot

Buttonhole Guide Foot (Model 11551 only)

Satin stitch foot

Use this foot for satin stitch and oultining applique and Buttonhole making.

Uses: Satin stitch (see p. 26),

Applique (see p. 27),

Monogramming (see p. 28)

Zipper foot

This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam straight,

Uses: Zipper application (see p. 3#,)

Buttonhole guide fool

Use this foot for buttonholes. It is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately.

Uses: Buttonhole making (see p. 3__2)

(Built-in method)

Yourchoiceofneedleandthreaddependson the fabric you are sewing.

In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:

Blue (1 1) ............ for stretch fabrics

Orange (1 1) .......... for lightweight fabrics

Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics

Purple (16) .......... for medium-heavy weight and decorative

topstitching on these fabrics

(This needle has a larger thread hole for

thicker topstitching thread.)

Green (18) .......... for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-

stitching on these fabrics

• Check Your Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.

To Change Your Needle

FABRIC

Lightweight:

Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile, Organdy

Medium Weight:

Cotton, Cotton Blends,

Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Knits,

Vinyl Suitings, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy Weight:

Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Velvets,

Leather

Heavy Weight:

Coatings, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on all types of fabric

Stretch Fabric:

Polyester Double Knits, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex,

Cire Tricot

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

11-ORANGE

14-RED

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

11-BLUE

(STRETCH

FABRIC

NEEDLE)

with"QFOOT"

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester Core!Cotton

Wrap Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton Mercerized Heavy-Duty Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap Silk A

Heavy Duty Mercerized

Cotton

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap Sitk A

Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread only)

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

RECOMMENDED

STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

12 stitches per

inch

10 _ 12 stitches

per inch

8 _ 10 stitches per inch

8 stitches per

inch

6 _ 8 stitches per

mch

t0 -_ 12 stitches

per inch

Flat

sfde away

from yoJ

" L

.... f ;

Needle clamp screw

NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-

tion by turning the hand wheel toward you.

1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you.

2. Remove the needle by pulling it downward.

3. insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the

large screwdriver from your accessory box.

• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine

r = f

Remove the extension table from

the machine by pulling it to the left. Open the shuttle cover by puIIing down the embossed part on

To remove bobbin case from shut- tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.

Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle.

the left side of the cover, Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand wheel toward you.

• Wind the Bobbin

Release clutch by turning clutch knob toward you.

• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

Draw thread from spool through bobbin Pull end of thread through

winder tension disc as shown, bobbin as shown.

hole in

Place bobbin onto bobbin winder spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin winder shaft to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start ma-

chine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread.

Wind thread until winder stops. Remove bobbin. Clip thread.

Tighten clutch knob.

• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pult thread under tension Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release when latch is released.

wise and is coming from as shown above, latch.

bobbin as shown.

+ 33 hidden pages