Page 1
OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE
MODELS 385. 1155180
or
385. 1154180
or
385. 1011180
Page 2
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear CustomeP:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before us]rig your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the,best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
AdvTce on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record in space provided below the model number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385. Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future r'eference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
Page 3
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1.
SECTION 2.
SECTION 3.
KNOW YOUR MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. 2
Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 2_3
Identify the Accessories ........................ 3
PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ......................... 4_6
Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............. 7_8
Choose Your NeedLe and Thread ............... 9_10
Prepare the Bobbin ........................ 11_13
Prepare Your Top Thread .................... 14_15
Adjust the Top Thread Tension ................ 16_17
Stitch Selector ............................. 18
Stitch Length Control ........................ 18
Reverse Stitch Control ........................ t8
Starting To Sew ............................ 19
LEARN THE STITCHES
Practical Stitch Chart ...................... 20_21
Straight Stitches .......................... 22_23
Darning ................................. 24
Straight Stretch ............................ 24
Zigzag Stitches ........................... 25_31
• Basic Zigzag ............................. 25
• Satin Stitch ............................. 26
• Applique ............................... 27
• Bar Tacking ............................. 27
• Monogramming .......................... 28
• Embroidery ............................. 28
• Sew a Button ............................ 29
• Overcasting Stitch ......................... 30
• Rick-Rack Stretch ........................ 30
• Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 31
Buttonholes ............................. 32_33
Sew in a Zipper .......................... 34_35
Smocking ................................ 36
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When ......................... 37_38
SECTION 5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb ...................... 39
Cleaning the Machine ...................... 39_40
Oiling the Machine ........................ 41_42
PARTS LIST ........................................ 43
INDEX ............................................ 44
Page 4
_jA<Pbrtab le;Gase:o_r_._6ab!net !fs:A vadab le_._:,
A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another option . , . buy a Carrying Case . . . then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any-
where.
f
_1r_Lobate:and r!dentlfy _the_P_,ts:
Take up Lever Stitch Selector
Bobbin W;nder Tension D_sc
Up per Th read Guide
Top Thread Tension Control
Face Cover Plate
Needle Plate
Shuttle Cover
2
Page 5
SpooEPins
Top Cover
Accessory box
nt brush
Thread Guide
ClutchKnob
Hand Wheel
Lcght and
Power Switch
Plug Connector
Foot Control
Presser Foot
Nomenclature Plate
Presser Foot Lever
Free Arm
Thread Guide
Thread Guide
Need le Clarqp
Bobbin
Needle set
Darning plate_
Straight
stitch foo:
footSatinstitch
S
_nhofe opener
_rge screw driver
_1 screw driver
)_ Spool pin felt
* But[onhole
guide foot
* Model 11551 only 3
Page 6
._,_.-_ -_ _X__'_- _,_< _._._';'__ :,_;;._ o,_-_.-.',_,.
. Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
f
Power supply plug
Power
switch
\
\
supply
\
Machine
socket
Machine
plug
NOTE:
1, Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120
2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch is
OFF.
Volt AC outlet.
outlet, as shown. It wilt only fit one way.
,°..°,,<
4. Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light,
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power switch is turned on. If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power switch to prevent injury to
children.
Foot Control Use
_I-] .'; "- "" _-"
/
Foot control
The foot control regulates the speed at
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot.
To decrease speed, release your foot pres-
sure slightly,
NOTE:
The foot control is sensitive and
will increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
J
Page 7
Setting Spool Pins
\ Spool pin felt
Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table
To remove:
IIL 0°°'0'n
Spool Pins are packed in accessory box.
Screw spool pins in place securely with a
screw d river.
Position sppo! pin felts as shown in illustra-
tion.
H=gh
position
\
Norrnal
position • ,
Presser foot _-_-_,';;'
lever Normal up
High position
pos[tiof_'_ k,
J
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers
your presser foot.
You can raise it about 1/4" higher than
normal up position for easy removal of the
presser foot or to help you place heavy
fabrics under the presser foot.
To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing)
1, Grip the table with your index finger,and thumb, as shown.
2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.
J
To Attach :
To Attach the Extension Table (for flat-bed sewing)
1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.
2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.
Page 8
• Free-Arm Sewing (Continued)
Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing.
This feature makes sewing easy for:
* bar tacking to reinforce pockets,
belt loops and waistline on ready-
made or homemade garments to
avoicl fabric bunching around the
needle.
6
* stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant * darning socks or mending knees,
legs, or any circular garment area. elbows, or areas of wear in child
ren's clothes.
sewing buttons on sleeves, waist-
bands, etc.
Page 9
z_'-__-_-_ %_'C_._ _-_ _,-"_- _ _ '_= _ ._"J-_'_ "_',;_z;_:_ ,_-_-_ ?T_." ,_ _ ._.
'_ _ ____4:=_:__;_z.Z; -_._2___ _o_.¢__, _._ ___ _ ":__:_'.-%-__- ' L_
The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively.
• Change the Presser Foot
Use the correct presser foot for the stitch
• Presser Foot Types
Zigzag Foot Straight Foot
you wish to sew. Consult the practical
Stitch Chart on pages 20 _ 21 and the
detailed directions for sewing with the
various presser feet.
Ztgzag foot
s
!
To change the various presser feet, raise the
presser bar to its highest position by lifting
the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser
foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom. Tighten the screw
using the large screw driver to make certain
the foot is secure.
Use this foot for both straight and zigzag
stitching.
Uses:
Straight stitching (see p. 2_22),
Topstitching (see p. 23),
Straight stretch (see p. 24),
Zigzag stitching (see p. 25),
Bar tacking (see p. 2j),
Button sewing (see p. 2__9_9),
Overcasting stitch (see p. 30),
Rick-Rack stretch (see p. 30),
Three-step zigzag [see p. 3__11),
Smocking (see p. 3__66)
Use this foot exclusively for straight stitching
using center needle position only.
Uses: Stratight stitching (see p. 22),
Straight sti%ch foot
Topstitching (see p. 23_),
Stratight stretch (see p. 24)
Page 10
• Presser Foot Types (Continued)
Satin Stitch Foot
f
Zipper Foot
4-
Buttonhole Guide Foot (Model 11551 only)
Satin stitch foot
Use this foot for satin stitch and oultining
applique and Buttonhole making.
Uses: Satin stitch (see p. 26),
Applique (see p. 27),
Monogramming (see p. 28)
Zipper foot
This foot can be set to sew on each side of
your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the
zipper and keep the seam straight,
Uses: Zipper application (see p. 3#,)
Buttonhole guide fool
Use this foot for buttonholes. It is marked
to measure your buttonholes accurately.
Uses: Buttonhole making (see p. 3__2)
(Built-in method)
Page 11
Yourchoiceofneedleandthreaddependson the fabric you are sewing.
In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles:
Blue (1 1) ............ for stretch fabrics
Orange (1 1) .......... for lightweight fabrics
Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics
Purple (16) .......... for medium-heavy weight and decorative
topstitching on these fabrics
(This needle has a larger thread hole for
thicker topstitching thread.)
Green (18) .......... for heavy weight fabrics and decorative top-
stitching on these fabrics
• Check Your Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks
and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong,
smooth and consistent in thickness.
Page 12
To Change Your Needle
FABRIC
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blends,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Knits,
Vinyl Suitings, Linen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
Gabardine, Velvets,
Leather
Heavy Weight:
Coatings, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative top-stitching
on all types of fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Knits,
Nylon Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cire Tricot
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
11-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
with"QFOOT"
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Core!Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Sitk A
Buttonhole Twist
(Use as top thread only)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
12 stitches per
inch
10 _ 12 stitches
per inch
8 _ 10 stitches
per inch
8 stitches per
inch
6 _ 8 stitches per
mch
t0 -_ 12 stitches
per inch
Flat
sfde
away
from
yoJ
" L
.... f ;
Needle clamp screw
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest posi-
tion by turning the hand wheel toward
you.
1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it
toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling it downward.
3. insert the new needle into the needle clamp
with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the
large screwdriver from your accessory box.
10
Page 13
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
r = f
Remove the extension table from
the machine by pulling it to the
left. Open the shuttle cover by
puIIing down the embossed part on
To remove bobbin case from shut-
tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.
Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle.
the left side of the cover,
Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating hand wheel toward you.
• Wind the Bobbin
Release clutch by turning clutch
knob toward you.
J
11
Page 14
• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
f
Draw thread from spool through bobbin Pull end of thread through
winder tension disc as shown, bobbin as shown.
hole in
Place bobbin onto bobbin winder
spindle with end of thread coming from
the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin
winder shaft to the right until it clicks.
Holding onto end of thread, start ma-
chine. When bobbin is slightly filled,
snip off end of thread.
Wind thread until winder stops. Remove
bobbin. Clip thread.
Tighten clutch knob.
12
Page 15
• Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
Place bobbin in bobbin case Pull thread through slot of case Pult thread under tension Holding latch open, position Case should lock into place
making sure thread feeds clock- as shown, spring and through the opening case into shuttle and release when latch is released.
wise and is coming from as shown above, latch.
bobbin as shown.
13
Page 16
• Thread Your Needle
(!) The numbered steps below follow the numbers on the illustrations.
Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then is pulled
tight.
Raise thread take-up lever to its highest position by turning
hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever. Place spool
on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of
the spool.
f
7
1. Draw thread through thread 2. While holding thread near 4. Draw thread up & through
guide, spool, draw thread into take-up _ever.
threading channel toward
you making sure the thread
is pulled firmly between the
tension discs.
3. Draw thread down channel
and around the spring wire
as shown.
l&
Page 17
Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread
o
®
5. Draw thread down and into
thread guide.
6. Pull the thread to the left and slip
it through the thread guide.
7. Thread then is slipped into needle
bar thread guide.
8. Thread needle from front to back.
NOTE: You may want to cut the
end of the thread with sharp
scissors for easier needle
th reading.
1.
Raise presser foot lever. Hold
needle thread loosely in ]eft hand
and rotate handwheel toward you
one complete turn.
If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:
J
1. Is needle threaded from front to back?
2. Is thread tangled around needle?
3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?
4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?
5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?
6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?
2, Bring bobbin thread up by pulling
top thread.
3.
Pull both threads under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 3
to 4 inches of thread clear.
15
Page 18
_- _t_ __ _:_f _."_ _-;_'_--_ _ -_:._ -:,
Top side of fabric
\
Setting mark
Choose the Correct Tension :
The best tension will depend on;
-- the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
-- the number of fabric layers
-- the type of stitch
Loose__
T_ghten
For Straight Stitch
The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail.
If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no
gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even.
The top thread
is too loose.
Top side _.._T_.,.._
of fabric
The top thread
appears on the
underside of the
fabric.
Tension is too loose:
The top thread shows through the
bottom of the fabric, The bottom side
of the stitch will feel bumpy.
The top _hread
is too tight
Top side
of fab__
The bobbin thread
appears on the
upper surface of the
fabric.
J
Tension is too tight:
The bobbin thread will come through
the top of the fabric. The top side of
the stitch will feel bumpy.
16
Page 19
For Zigzag Stitch
In the ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads wilt not show on top of the
fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the under side. See below
for the correct appearance. Adjust the top thread tension for the best
match in your sewing conditions.
Too Tight
C. (?= _,."L Y-" _ %_;-,°-,'.-, ?J-7
.L_.-:?&.-_o-, ;;.%: -'_" %."
r-_.\-#.-_3_-_- & v"z :_,h-
Top Side of Fabric
Too Tight"
-- The points of the
zigzag will pull
together on top of
the stitch.
Too Loose
Bottom side of Fabric
Too Loose:
-- The top thread.
will toop through
the points on the
bottom of the
stitch and wdl be
pulled almost
together.
,,j
,I
Just Right
:J"./',_o&-:.',._=_z.'_'_'-_m :-"--L_% .',%
Bottom side of Fabric
Just Right:
-- Minimize the
amount of top
thread visible on
the bottom side of
fabric without
causing excessive
puckering or
causing the
bottom thread to
show on the top
side_ Results vary
with fabric, thread
and sewing condi-
tions_
17
Page 20
t_
Setting mark_ I
6
I
i
I
!
I
8 12240
The stitch selector control not only
determines the stitch you select, but
also regulates the stitch width for
regular zigzag and rick rack stretch
stitches.
The different types of stitches are
designated by color.
Straight, Zigzag and Three-Step Zigzag
(Model 11551 only) are orange.
Straight Stretch [Models 11551 and
11541), Rick-Rack Stretch (Models
11551 and 11541) and Smocking
Stretch (Model 11551 only) are gold.
Buttonhole Settings (Model 11551
only) are blue.
NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric
damage, be sure your needle
is up and out of fabric when
adjusting this control.
,.. J
The stitch length control regulates the
length of the stitch.
The higher the number, the shorter the
stitch.
0 means no feed.
k.
In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length
Control should be in the detent posi-
tion between S and L (vposition)for
most materials. Depending upon the
type of fabric used, you may need to
adjust this control to match forward
stitches of stretch sewing with reverse
motion stitches. To shorten stretch
stitches, turn the control slightly to-
ward "'S". To lengthen, turn toward
"'C",
Smocking stretch
Rickrack stretch
To reverse stitch, hold down this con-
trol during sewing.
Release to sew forward again.
18
Page 21
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new
Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be
afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural
fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension
suitable to your fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8"
seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam.
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
19
Page 22
Stitch Selector
Stitch Foot , : _ ' Attach. ' , Needle : , Tension" Length " _ , . Uses Refer to Page
Other Thread Stitch
STRAIGHT Straight
.... i
ZIGZAG
SATIN STITCH
| .
Darning Check 2 _ 6 6 _ 12 Regular seams, zippers, topstitching, darning, 22 _ 24
Zigzag plate Chart v-. , invisible zipper, cording, etc, 34 _ 35
' " 36
Zigzag
Satin
t " : ' Chart : , ....
i ,
i I
Check 2 _ 5
Check
Chart
• • , i •
1L4
6 ~ 24
0_'24 Use for applique work, also as decorative
Finish edges, buttons, satin stitch, sewing
• t, bar tacks. . _ . : . • : - . :
finish for p]acemats, blankets, collars,
cuffs and pockets.
25 ~ 30
26 _ 28
2O
Page 23
St itch Stitch Other Thread Stitch
STRAIGHT
STR ETCH
(Models 11551 and
11541)
Selector Foot Attach. Needle Tension Length Uses Refer to Page
Ill
III
ill
Straight
_ Z igza9
Check 2 _ 6 S • L Use on knits and other stretch fabrics, good 24
Chart for topstitching.
RICK-RACK
STRETCH
(Models 11551 and
11541)
THREE-STEP
ZIGZAG
(Model 11551 only)
SMOCKING
STITCH
(Model 11551 only)
,,,j\
1%/
/\1
BUTTONHOLE
(Model 11551 only)
,iq
I
2r"'i
1-11
i
Zigzag
Z igza9
Zigzag
Buttonhole
Check
Chart
Check
Chart
Check
Chart
Check
Chart
1_4
1_4
1_4
1_5 B lue Zone Buttonholes: also corded buttonholes.
S v L
Blue Zone
24
S • L
Decorate garments with One row or several
Use for finishing seams.
Use nn smocking or as a decorative stitch.
30
31
36
32 _ 33
21
Page 24
,_;_._Stratght_S.ti_._ti.es!L"_
-,.,g_:;,_?;:;[,,-t,,z¢.,,-.%,%;_-&<,jz;-_-_.],.,.',$2
• Straight Stitch
f
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
• Use the Seam Guides
Cornering Guide
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
L
22
Stitch length
control 6 to 12
Zigzag foot
1. Raise the presser foot. - 7. At the end of the seam; you may
2. Raise the needle to its highest want to reverse to lock the stitch.
position. 8. Raise the presser foot and remove
3. Place the edge of the fabric next
to a stitching guide line on the 9. Cut the threads.
needle plate (5/8" is most
common).
4. Draw the threads towards the
back and lower the presser foot.
5. Press the foot control.
6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently
guide it along the guide line, so
that it feeds naturally.
Do not force the fabric or try to
pull it tight.
the fabric.
The seam guides on the needle plate
are there to help you measure seam
width. The lines are 1/8" apart, with
the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
• Turn a Square Corner
I
,. "" )
To turn a square corner 5/8" form the
fabric edge:
1. Stop stitching and lower the
needle by turning hand wheel
toward you when the fabric edge
facing you lines up with the
cornering guide, as shown.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn
the fabric to line the edge with
the 5/8" seam guide.
3. Lower the presser foot and begin
stitching in the new direction.
Page 25
• Use the Darning Plate
f
_ometimes when you sew, you want
o control the fabric youself.
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs
so that they do not touch the fabric.
To .Put on the Darning Plate:
NOTE: The rectangular holes in the
Darning Plate match the
-holes in the needle plate. In
the darning plate, these
holes are slightly to the left
of center.
1. Position the darning plate with
the pins on the bottom.
2. Fit the darning plate pins into the
needle plate holes. The feed dogs
will show through the darning
plate holes.
Use the darning plate in the following
ways: Darning (p. 24)
Embroidery (p. 28)
Button Sewing (p. 29)
Topstitching
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Stitch length control
6to12
Top thread tension _L.
control 2 to 6
Stratght foot Ztgzag foot
% .
The Stitch and Its Uses
Topstitching emphasizes the lines of
your garment and keeps "seams and
edges flat and crisp.
Accent suits or blouses with one or
two rows of topstitching around the
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.
I
Here's How
1.
Lower the presser foot.
2.
Keep the edge of the fabric next
to the right edge of the presser
foot.
3.
Evenly guide the fabric along this
edge to produce an even row of
topstitching 3/8" from the edge.
NOTE:
You can easily adjust your
needle from left to right for
topstitching without moving
your fabric from under the
zigzag presser foot.
• Left Needle Position
!
Stitch Selector
©
Jse Left Needle Position for more
control while topstitching or edge
stitching difficult fabrics.
NOTE: Use only zigzag presser
foot for Left Needle
Sewing.
23
Page 26
Set the Machine
Stich selector
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
!
!L : ' . .... =. , =i ,1.-
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
No presser
foot
24
Stitch length
Any number
to adlust)
Darning plate
(not necessary
t
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate
(see p. 233).
2. Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between
embroidery hoops with hole centered.
3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the
fabric by holding the top thread and taking
one stitch at the spot where you wish to
start darning.
4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow
speed.
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until
you have covered the darning area.
6. Turn the fabric half turn and sew another
layer of stitching over the first layer.
NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly
damaged, use a separate piece of fabric
under the hole to reinforce it.
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning
plate.
Top thread tension
control 2 _o 6 !
Stitch length
o %
Straight foo= Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
This stitch is the stretch variation of
the straight stitch, especially develop-
ed for knits and stretch fabrics.
T,his stitch can also be used for
topstitching on all fabrics.
Stretch stitching was developed
to be used on stretch fabrics and
knits. It can be used on other
fabrics as well. It works well on
curved seams and on any
garments that will receive a great
deal of strain (ie. children's
clothes).
The stretch stitch does not
actually stretch as it is being
sewn, but is stitched in a
forward and back motion
(sometimes called a "reverse-
action" stitch), so that it will
give when the fabric stretches
instead of breaking.
Page 27
• Basic Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
@
Top thread tension
control 2 to 5
Z;gzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
The zigzag stitch is one of the most
common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. Itcan be a utility stitch
for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem-
ming, overcasting, mending and darn-
ing. It can also be used to decorate
with trims, appliques and cut-out work
or as a decorative stitch.
Stitch length
6 to 24
Here's How
There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.
Consult the specific variations for detailed directions,
Satin Stitch p. 26
Applique Work p. 27
Bar Tacking p. 27
Monogramming p. 28
Embroidery p. 28
Button Sewing p. 29
Overcasting p. 30
25
Page 28
• Satin Stitch
Top thread tens;or,
control 1 to 4
Satin stitch foot
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
I
Stitch length
0 to 24
<,
Shtch
length :
Close to 0
Zigzag width :
24
!2
>
>
>
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often
used decorative stitch, but it can also
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex-
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths
and napkins).
The Satin stitch is especially attractive
in applique, bar tacking, monogram-
ming and embrodiery.
26
Here's How
Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a fragment
of the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light
weight fabrics.
Page 29
Stitch selector
Bar Tacking
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Satir, stitch foot
Stitch length
0 to 24
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric
joiner) applique pieces on the fabric.
Stitch around the applique making
sure the needle fails along the outer
edge of the applique,
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pivot the fabric to the right
or left.
Top thread tension
contro_ 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Stitch length
0
\
1
This stitch is similar to a very short
satin stitch and is used to reinforce
points of strain such as corners or
pockets and straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
27
Page 30
+ Monogramming
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
• Embroidery
f
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Top thread tens_en
control 1 to 4
Satin stitch foot
28
Stitch ength
0 to 24
k,
Here's How
1. Set the same as satin stitch.
2. Back the fabric with paper or
interfacing.
!.
3. Draw the design on to the fabric
with tailor's chalk.
4. Satin stitch, adjusting the stitch
width as necessary to form each
pattern.
5. If using paper, carefully remove it
when you have finished sewing.
Top thread tension Stitch length
6ontrol 1 to 4 Any number
tO adjust)
_. (not necessary
No presser O)foot
- Darning plate
Here's How
1. Put the darning plate on the needle
plate (see p. 2__33).
2. Remove presser foot.
3. Adjust the stitch width as desired
(see p. 1__8).
4. Draw the design on to the fabric with
tailor's chalk.
5. Stretch the fabric between
embroidery hoops and place under
the needle.
6. Lower the presser foot lever to
engage the top thread tension.
7. Holding the top thread in your left
hand, rotate the hand wheel toward
you one comp[ete turn.
Pull the top thread to draw the
bobbin thread through to the
surface of the fabric.
8. Using a medium speed, stitch along
the marked outline, guiding the
fabric carefu Ily by hand.
Page 31
Sew a Button
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
!
'_-.%':'._-:,b.-_"t:i_-_L:,:'":_-'"-_? -'''__::-"_" °71
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Stitch tength
Any number
(not necessary
tO adjust}
O'
Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p. 23)
I. Set the stitch selector at the far right of zigzag stitch mark " _".
2. Align the both holes of the button with the slot of the foot and place the left
hole of the button just. below the needle point.
3. Lower the foot and turn the stitch selector to zigzag until the needle point
¢omes just above the right hole of the button.
4. Sew about five stitches and raise needle.
5. Set the stitch selector at the far right of zigzag stitch mark "!€_,_" again and
sew a few stitches to lock thread.
To strengthen the shank, cut the
threads leaving a 20 cm (8") tail, Bring
_he needle thread down through the
hole in the button and wind it around
."d_ shank.
Draw the thread to the wrong side and
knot.
29
Page 32
• Overcasting Stitch
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
I
Stitch Iength
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
This zigzag variation is very useful in
garment construction and in finishing
raw edges of any sewing project.
12 to 24
I
Helpful Hints
Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the
raw corner of your seam. If you start
right at the edge, the fabric wilt bunch
up and the stitches will become
tangled.
Rick-Rack Stretch (Models 11551 an=
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
I
l- lO
Top _hreacltension
centroI 1 to 4 i
Stitch length
\
O"
Zigzag foot
11541)
The Stitch and Its Uses
Sew on stretch fabrics in any area that
you might use a zigzag stitch.
This stitch can be used as a decorative
top stitch as well.
30
Page 33
• Three-Step Zigzag (Model 11551 only)
Set the Machine
St{tch selector
Stitch length
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4 _1_
Z_gzag foot
Blue Zone'=if'to 24
The Stitch and Its Uses
The three-step zigzag is a combination
zigzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch. It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
The three-step zigzag stitch is especial-
ly useful for:
-- mending
- sewing patches smoothly and
securely.
- repairing straight tears.
- finishing seams.
Seam Finishing
Place the fabric under the presser foot
so that the edge will be slightly inside
the right hand side of the presser foot.
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
Mending
Position the tear under the needle so
that the stitching will catch both sides.
31
Page 34
t,
i 2[_ 4
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
_ Blue Zone
2
TOp thread tension /'?-/.._ e\_
Stitch length
hole guide foot
Adjusting the Stitch Density
Depending upon your fabric or your
own preference in buttonholes, you
may alter the buttonhole stitch
density within the blue buttonhole
range on the stitch length dial.
1. For less density, turn the dial
toward "24".
2. For more density, turn the dial
toward "0".
NOTE: Always make a practice but-
tonhole on a scrap fabric you
plan to use to find the more
32
suitable stitch length,
• a. Carefully mark the buttonhole
length on your garment.
b. Change to the buttonhole guide
foot.
c. Insert the garment under the
foot with the buttonhole mark-
ing running toward you.
Coarse F ine
for heavy for fight
fabrics fabrics
stitches _ _ stitches
2. a, Move the slider (A) toward you
so that the top mark (C) on the
slider meets the start mark (B),
b. Line up the markings on the
foot with the top mark on your
garment.
c. Lower the presser foot.
NOTE: The markings on the slider
are engraved in centimeters.
3. a. Set the stitch selector at _E].
b. Sew forward until you reach the
front marking of your button-
hole.
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
Page 35
4. a.Setthestitchselectorat_.
b.Sew4to6stitches.
c. Stopsewingattherightstitch.
5.a.Setthestitchserectorat [_3.
b.Sewuntilyoureachthebackof
thebuttonhole.
c. Stopsewingattherightstitch.
6. a. Set the stitch selector at =_.
b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches.
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
7, Remove the fabric and cut the hole
open with the buttonhole opener in
your accessory box.
33
Page 36
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
Top side
of fabric
rend of opening
1/8")
Zipper teeth
Zipper tape
Top thread tension
control 3 to 6
Ztpper foo_
Stitch length
12
Top edge of fabric
,/
Fabric Preparation: To Sew:
Put the top sides of the fabric to- 1.
gether and sew to the end of the zip-
per opening. Use the reverse to lock 2.
the stitches.
Sew the zipper opening with stitch 3.
Fold back the left seam allowance
as shown.
Turn under the right seam allow-
ance to form a 1/8"' fold.
Place the zipper teeth next to the
length at "6" and top thread tension
at "3"'.
1/8" fold and pin in place.
4, To sew the left side of the zipper,
set the zipper foot on the left side
of the needle.
5. Lower the zipper foot on the top
side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
and the zipper tape,
6. Sew through the fold and the zip-
per tape to the point where the
slider begins.
7. Lower the needle to hold the fab-
ric and raise the presser foot.
34
Page 37
: i¸¸ ¸ ¸
8. Open thezipper. 10. Close the zipper and turn
9, Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric top side Up.
the rest of the seam.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDING
_- INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through
the center hole of the foot and one groove of
the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as
shown, Follow the zipper manufacturer's inst-
ructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish
sewing seam by shifting foot to side position
sewing through side notch.
CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording for slip-
covers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias
fabric and sew as shown.
NOTE:
Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT"
(6757) for "invisible zipper" and "'cording",
which can be obtained at any Sears retail store.
%....
the 11.
12.
13.
To sew the right side of the zip-
per, set the zipper foot on the
right side of the needle.
Stitch across and below the bot-
tom of the zipper.
Turn the corner and continue to
guide the foot along the zipper
teeth, as shown.
Stitch through the fabric and
zipper tape.
14. Stop about 2" from the top of the
zipper.
15. Lower th.e needle into the fabric
and raise the presser foot.
16. Remove the basting stitches and
open the zipper.
t7. Lower the foot and stitch the rest
of the seam. Make sure the fold is
even.
,35
Page 38
Set the Machine
Stitch selector
I
1 cm (3/8")
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Stitch length
1
With the stitch length at "6", sew
straight stitching lines 3/8" (1 cm)
apart across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at
the other end. Sew the decorative
stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pull out the gathering stitches.
NOTE: Loosen the top thread
tension to make gathering
easier.
36
Page 39
PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
CORRECTION
Irregular Stitches
Breaking Needle
Bunching of Thread
Puckering
Incorrect size needle.
Improper th reading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Pulling fabric.
Incorrect size needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back
under presser foot before starting seam.
Incorrect thread tension(s).
Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric too sheer or too soft.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Rethread machine.
Tighten upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Reset needle,
Reset presser foot.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitches are
formed.
Reset thread tension(s).
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot.
Use underlay of tissue paper.
37
Page 40
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION
Skipping Stitches
Breaking Upper Thread
Breaking Bobbin Thread
Fabric not Moving
Machine Jamming Knocking Noise
Incorrect size needle.
Certain knits and synthetics.
Bent or blunt needle,
Incorrect setting of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Starting to stitch too fast.
Improper threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Improper bobbin case threading.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Darning plate in place.
Stitch Length set at O.
Thread knotted under fabric.
Thread caught in shuttle.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Use "Q NEEDLE%.
Insert new needle.
Reset needle.
Loosen upper thread tension,
Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machine.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric•
Insert new needle•
Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Check bobbin case threading•
Clean bobbin case and shuttle,
Remove darning plate.
Adjust Stitch Length Control.
Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
to stitch,
Disassemble and clean shuttle.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
38
Page 41
I I
'! 't
I I I I
_-I ',=',
• J
1. Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.
To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times.
The feed dogs and shuttle race areas can attract dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread
is caught.
Check and clean those areas about every three months under normal use.
If you sew frequently, clean more often.
• Clean the Feed Dogs
CAUTION!
The light bulb will be
HOT. Protect your
fingers when you
handle it.
2.
Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb counter-clockwise to remove
it.
3,
Put the new bulb in by pushing it
up and turning it clockwise.
Follow these direction :
1. Using a screw driver, remove 2. Use a tint brush and clean the feed
needle plate, dogs.
3. Replace needle plate into position.
39
Page 42
• Clean the Shuttle Race
This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area
about every three months.
Center pin of
the shuttle
Shuttle driver
_'_,_ *'// -'_'£ Shuttle
Leve "_
S.u. ,o.oeek po,nto7
case
To Clean the Shuttle Area:
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest
point and remove the bobbin case.
2. Push shuttle race levers aside. Lift
shuttle race cover and take shuttle out.
3. Clean the shuttle race with a lint
brush.
4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of
the shuttle and shuttle race. Do not
over-oil.
40
Cover
To Replace Shuttle Assembly:
1, Position shuttle race as illustrated so that shuttle
driver is forming a half moon on the Ieft side of the
machine.
2. Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as
to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook
will be on the bottom.
3. Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle
assembly.
4. Snap the levers back into the original position.
F
f
Page 43
Oil the machine in all areas shown on the next two pages at }east once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you
use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it
before sewing. Use good quality sewing machine oil. One or two drops of oil is sufficient. Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric.
• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate •
F f
Open face cover plate and oil points in i}lustration.
Use only a drop of oil; do not over-oil.
Oil under the Top Cover
Remove top cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head. To remove cover plate,
loosen up two top screws and lift the cover plate as illustrated.
41
Page 44
i
Oil the Underside
f.-
I
T
i
!
f
x .......
.............................:._<:_....."._._ _-_ :
Oil the underside at least once a year.
Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers. 0il points indicated on underside of machine.
To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B) and (C) as shown.
42
J
i
!
f
i
Page 45
PARTS LIST
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. store or
service center.
1 2 3
7 8 9
14 15
21 22
16
5 6
10
11
17 18 19 20
12 13
S
23
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
INFORMATION :
1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCR IPTION
3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
Ref. No. Part No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
*These items are not furnished with the
instructions above.
102403202
813404013
648801005
650802003
593401008
802424004
820832005
649802009
47
6510
*6862
1939
8286
6551
6552
6553
6554
*6746
36353
4039O
6870
*6757
*6864
6797
40164
33379
6830
41669
*6889
Shuttle
Bobbin case
Bobbin box with 10 bobbins
Bobbin winder rubber ring
Thread spool pin
Spool pin feJt
No. 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
No. 11 Single needles (ORG)
No. 14 Single needles (RED)
No. 16 Single needles (PUn)
No. 18 Single needles (GRN)
"Q NEEDLES"
Needle clamp with screw
Buttonhole guide foot
Straight stitch foot
Standard zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
Zipper foot
Zipper foot
Needle threader
Light bu Ib
Motor belt
Motor belt
Buttonhole opener
Lint brush
Large screw driver
Small screw driver
Oil and lint brush
Darning plate
machine, but may be ordered per
Description
43
Page 46
INDEX
A
Appliqueing ...................... 27
B
Bar tacking ....... " ............. 20, 27
Base ............................ 2
Basic zigzag .................... 20, 25
Bobbin .................... !1, t3,43
Bobbin case ............... 11, 13, 40, 43
Bobbin thread .................. 15_16
Bobbin winding ................. 11_12
Buttonhole ................. 21, 32_33
Buttonhole guide foot .... 3, 8, 21, 32_33, 43
Buttonhole opener ............. 3, 33, 43
Button sewing .................. 20, 29
C
Cabinet .......................... 2
Changing presser foot ................ 7
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race .... 39_40
Clutch knob .................... 3, 11
Cording ........................ 35
Cornering guide ................... 22
D
Darning ...................... 20, 24
Darning plate ......... 3, 23_24, 28_29, 43
E
Embroidery ...................... 28
Extension table ................... 2, 5
F
Fabric, needle, thread and
stitch length chart ............... 10
Face cover plate .................. 2, 41
Feed dogs ....................... 39
Foot control .................... 3_4
Free arm sewing .................. 5_6
H
Hand wheel ..................... 3, 15
44
I
Invisible zipper .................... 35
L
Light and power switch .............. 3, 4
Light bulb ................... 4, 39, 43
Lint brush ................... 3, 39, 43
M
Monogramming ................... 28
N
Needle ....................... 9_10
Needle clamp .................... 3, 43
Needle plate .................... 2, 39
Needle, th read and fabric chart ......... 10
0
Oiling ........................ 41_42
Overcasting stitch .................. 30
P
Parts list ........................ 43
Performance problems ............. 37_38
Plug connector ................... 3_4
Portable case ...................... 2
Power switch .................... 3_4
Practical stitch chart . .............. 20_21
Presser foot .................... 3, 7_8
Presser foot lever .................. 3, 5
R
Replacing bobbin case ............. 11, 13
Reverse stitch control ............. 18, 22
Rick rack stretch stitching .......... 21, 30
s
Satin stitch foot .......... 3, 20, 26_28, 43
Satin stitching .................. 20, 26
Seam guides ...................... 22
Sewing light ....................... 4
Shuttle ....................... 40, 43
Shuttle cover .................... 2, 11
Shuttle race ...................... 40
Smocking ..................... 21,36
Spool pin felt .................. 3, 5, 43
Spool pins .................... 3, 5, 43
Stitch length adjustment ............. 18
Stitch length control ................ 18
Stitch selector .................... 18
Straight stitching ........ 20, 22, 24, 34_36
Straight stitch foot ......... 3, 7, 20_24, 43
Straight stretch stitching ........... 21, 24
T
Thread guide ................. 3, I4_15
Thread take-up lever ............... 2, 14
Thread tensions ................. 16"17
Three-step zigzag ................ 21,31
Top cover ...................... 3, 41
Topstitching ................... 20, 23
Top thread .................... 14_17
Top thread tension ............... 16_17
Turning a square corner .............. 22
Z
Zigzag foot ..... 7, 20_25, 27, 29_31, 36, 43
Zigzag stitching .............. 20, 25_31
Zigzag overcasting .................. 30
Zipper application ............... 34_35
Zipper foot .............. 3, 8, 34_35, 43
!
!
I
Page 47
Ill,
_) WARRANTY
__&
FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear
in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head.
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
For two years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which
appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, wiring, switch and
# speed control.
- FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
- For 90 days from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
- WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES.
A) This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
_1 SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., D/817 WA, Hoffman Estates, IL 60179
#
#
,p
#
i,
Page 48
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit.
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location.
WHEN ORDER ING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
*MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM *PART DESCRIPTION
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
S-385
Printed in Taiwan
Part No. 649800030 (_
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