Seagull Models ZERO FIGHTER Assembly Manual

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Hand-made Almost Ready to Fly R/C Model Aircraft
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Made in Vietnam
Specifications
Wingspan ----------------------- .148 cm--------------- 58.3 in. Wing area ----------------------- 3474sq. cm ---- 538.4sq in. Approximate flying weight ----- 2.8 - 3.0kg ----6.2 - 6.6 lb. Recommended engine size ---------- 0.40 - .48 2 stroke.
0.50 - .72 4 stroke. Recommended R/C ------------- 4 channel with 5 servos. Flying skill level ------------------- Advanced / Intermediate.
Kit features
• Ready-made—minimal assembly & finishing required
• Ready-covered covering
• Factory-installed pushrods
• Factory-installed engine mount
• Factory-pinned & glued control surface hinges for ultimate safety
• Comprehensive hardware pack including wheels, tank, spats,undercarriage& spinner
• Photo-illustrated step-by-step Assembly Manual
Additional items required
Engine 4 Channel or greater Radio Control system Glues Tools Starting Equipment
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INTRODUCTION
Thank you for choosing the Zero fighter ARTF by SEAGULL MODELS. The Zero fighter was designed with the intermediate/advanced sport flyer in mind. It is a semi scale airplane which is easy to fly and quick to assemble. The airframe is conventionally built using balsa, plywood and veneer to make it stronger than the average ARTF , yet the design allows the aeroplane to be kept light. You will find that most of the work has been done for you already. The pushrods are pre-made to the correct lengths, the motor mount has been fitted and the hinges are pre-installed and pinned for security. Flying the Zero fighter is simply a joy.
This instruction manual is designed to help you build a great flying aeroplane. Please read this manual thoroughly before starting assembly of your Zero fighter . Use the parts listing below to identify all parts.
WARNING
Please be aware that this aeroplane is not a toy and if assembled or used incorrectly it is capable of causing injury to people or property. WHEN YOU FLY THIS AEROPLANE YOU ASSUME ALL RISK & RESPONSIBILITY.
If you are inexperienced with basic R/C flight we strongly recommend you contact your R/C supplier and join your local R/C Model Flying Club. R/C Model Flying Clubs offer a variety of training procedures designed to help the new pilot on his way to successful R/C flight. They will also be able to advise on any insurance and safety regulations that may apply.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
! .40-.48 2-stroke engine.
.50-.72 4-stroke engine.
! 4-channel radio with five servos. ! Glow plug to suit engine. ! Propeller to suit engine. ! Protective foam rubber for radio
system.
! Silicone fuel line. ! Stick-on weights for balance
(If necessary).
TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED
! Thick cyanoacrylate glue. ! 30 minute epoxy. ! 5 minute epoxy. ! Hand or electric drill. ! Assorted drill bits. ! Modelling knife. ! Straight edge ruler. ! 2mm ball driver. ! Phillips head screwdriver. ! 220 grit sandpaper. ! 90° square or builder’s triangle. ! Wire cutters. ! Masking tape & T-pins. ! Thread-lock. ! Paper towels.
PARTS LISTING
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
! (1) Fuselage
WING ASSEMBLY
! (1) Right wing half with pre-installed
aileron.
! (1) Left wing half with pre-installed
aileron.
! (1) Plywood wing dihedral brace. ! (1) Covering strip for centre section
joint.
Tail section assembly
! (1) Vertical stabilizer with pre-
installed rudder
! (1) Horizontal stabilizer with pre-
installed elevator halves.
Some more parts.
HARDWARE PACK
COWLING
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NOTE:To avoid scratching your new aero-
plane we suggest that you cover your workbench with an old towel. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the bags.
Please trial fit all parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are aligned properly before gluing! This will ensure proper assembly as the Zero fighter is made from natu- ral materials and minor adjustments may have to be made.
The paint and plastic parts used in this kit are fuel proof. However, they are not tolerant of many harsh chemi­cals including the following: paint thinner, cyano-acrylate glue accel­erator, cyanoacrylate glue de-bonder and acetone. Do not let these chemi­cals come in contact with the colours on the covering and the plastic parts.
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! 6) Reinstall the gear wire and install the straps using the four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. Tighten the screws completely to secure the gear wire in place.
PARTS REQUIRED
LANDING GEAR INSTALLATION
! {2} Prebent Main Gear Wires ! {2} 60mm Diameter Wheels ! {4} Nylon Landing Gear Straps ! {8} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws ! {4} Wheel Collars w/3mm x 6mm Set
Screws
INSTALLING THE MAIN GREAR WIRES
! 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the two main gear mount­ing slots located in the bottom of the wing.
! 2) Insert the 90º bend of one main gear wire into the predrilled hole in one mounting slot.
! 3) The landing gear wire is held in place using two nylon landing gear straps and four 3mm x 12mm wood screws.
The straps should be located equal distance from the inside and outside ends of the wire.
! 4) Using the two landing gear straps as a guide, mark the locations of the four 3mm x 12mm mounting screws onto the wing surface.
! 5) Remove the two straps and the gear wire. Drill four 1.5mm pilot holes into the wing for the wood screws. Be careful not to drill
through the top of the wing!
! 7) Slide one wheel collar with 3mm x 6mm set screw onto each axle. Push the wheel collars on as far as they will go and
tighten the set screws.
Be careful not to overtighten the set screws. Overtightening may cause the threads to strip.
! 8) Slide one 60mm diameter wheel onto each axle and push them up against the wheel collars. Slide the remaining wheel collars with 3mm x 6mm set screws onto the axles. Push them up against the wheels and tighten the set screws. The wheels should spin free and not bind in any way. If they do bind, loosen the set screws in the outer wheel collars and move the collars out a small amount. Re­tighten the set screws.
Nylon landing gear strap
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! 1) Use a small weight(Weighted fuel pick- up )+thread to feed the servo connector
through the wing as indicated
INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS.
string
small weight
! 2) Attach the string to one end of servo lead and carefully thread it though the wing. Once you have thread the lead throught the wing, remove the string so it can use for the other servo lead.
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Because the size of servos differ, you
may need to adjust the size of the precut opening in the mount. The notch in the sides of the mount allow the servo lead to pass through.
! 4) Install the aileron servo into the servo mount, with the output shaft towards the trail­ing edge of the wing, using the wood screws provided with your radio system. Drill 1mm pilot holes through the mount
Repeat the procedure for the other wing half.
PARTS REQUIRED
! {2} 2mm x 180mm Threaded Wires ! {2} Nylon Adjustable Control Horns ! {2} Nylon Clevises ! {4} Machine screws 2MM x 20MM ! {2} Set control horns.
! 3) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto the aileron servo. Test fit the servo into the aileron servo mount.
INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE
! 1) Using a ruler & pen to draw a straight line as below picture.
2) Locate the two nylon control horns, two nylon control horn backplates and four machine screws.
!!
!!
!3) Position the aileron horn on the bottom
side of aileron. The clevis attachment holes should be positioned over the hinge line.
Control Horn
Mounting Screws
Mounting Plate
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!!
!!
!4) Using a 1mm drill bit and the control horns
as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the aileron halves.
6) Thread one nylon adjustable control horn onto each aileron torque rod. Thread the horns on until they are flush with the ends of the torque rods.
!!
!!
!5) Mount the control horns by inserting the
screws through the control horn bases and aileron halves, then into the mounting backplates. Do Not overtighten the screws or the backplates may crush the wood.
7) Connect the clevis to the control horn and lay the wire across the servo arm. Mark the wire where it crosses over the arm holes.
8) Cut the wire 1/2” past the mark and make an “ L ” bend .
9) Connect the control wire to the servo and aileron horn as shown. Use the “ L” bend keeper to secure the control wire to the servo arm.
10mm
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! 2. Test fit the dihedral brace into each
wing half. The brace should slide in easily up to the centreline that you drew. If not, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block and sand down the edges and ends of the brace until it fits properly.
! 3. Remove the brace when satisfied
with its fit in each wing half. Coat both sides of one half of the dihedral brace with 30 minute epoxy. Next, pour some epoxy into the dihedral box in one wing panel. Make sure you cover the top and bottom as well as the sides of the dihedral brace. Use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
! 4. Insert the dihedral brace into the di-
hedral box up to the centreline. With paper towels wipe off any excess epoxy that may have squeezed out of the joint .
Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firmly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out. there should should not be any gap in the wing halves. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper tower to clean up any excess epoxy.
Apply masking tape at the wing join to hold the wing halves together securely .
WING ASSEMBLY
NOTE:We highly recommend using 30
minute epoxy as it is stronger and provides more working time, allowing the builder to properly align the parts. Using fast cure epoxy when joining the wing halves could result in the glue drying before the wing halves are aligned properly which may result in failure of the wing centre section during flight.
! 1. Locate the plywood wing dihedral
brace. Using a ruler, locate its central and draw a vertical line .
Epoxy
central line
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INST ALLING THE PILOT .
! 1.If you plan on using a pilot in your Zero fighter .46, now is the time to mount it to the cockpit floor area of the hatch.
INST ALLING THE CANOPY .
! 1.Locate the canopy and note the trim lines. Carefully trim out the canopy using regu­lar scissors. Use care in cutting out the canopy.
Glue attached.
Securing by 4 machine screws ( 1mmx 5mm) for each corner
! 2. After cutting out the canopy, trial fit it to fuselage. Trim as necessary to make a proper fit.
! 3.After confirming the fit of the canopy to the fuselage, attach it to the fuselage using canopy glue. Masking tape can be used to hold the canopy in place while the glue dries. Allow the canopy glue to dry.
Glue attachment
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INST ALLING THE STOPPER ASSEMBL Y
! 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut off the rear portion of one of the two nylon tubes leaving 1/2” protruding from the rear of the stopper. This will be the fuel pick up tube.
! 2) Using a modeling knife, cut one length of silicon fuel line. Connect one end of the line to the weighted fuel pickup and the other end to the nylon pickup tube.
PARTS REQUIRED
FUEL TANK
! {1 } Molded Nylon Fuel Tank ! {1} Preassembled Stopper Assembly ! {1} Metal Weighted Pick-Up ! {1} Molded Foam Fuel Tank Support
ADDING DECALS.
! 1.Locate the decal sheet include in the kit. Use the box art photos and some pictures below as an approximate position reference for the application of the inclued decals.
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! 3) Carefully bend the second nylon tube up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube. Use a lighter or heat gun to heat the vent tube. The vent tube must be heated so it will be man at a 45o angle.
When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top surface of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.
! 4) Test fit the stopper assembly into the tank. It may be necessary to remove some of the flashing around the tank opening using a modeling knife. If flashing is present, make sure none falls into the tank.
! 6) When satisfied with the alignment of the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm machine screw until the rubber stop­per expands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the assembly as this could cause the tank to split.
Vent tube
Top of Tank
Fuel Pickup Tube
! 5) With the stopper assembly in place, the weighted pickup should rest about 3/8” away from the rear of the tank and move freely inside the tank. The top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.
INST ALLING THE FUEL T ANK
TOOLS REQUIRED
! 1) Using a modeling knife, cut one lengths of fuel line . Connect one line to the vent tube and one line to the fuel pick up tube on the stopper. See picture bellow.
Pushrod Wire
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MOUNTING THE ENGINE
! !
! !
! 1) Locate the wire pushrod and the nylon
pushrod housing. Install the pushrod housing through the predrilled hole in the firewall and into the servo compartment. Make a Z-Bend 1/4" from one end of the plain wire pushrod.
! !
! !
! 2) Temporarily bolt the plates to the motor
mount, but do not completely tighten them down at this time. Leave them slightly loose so they can be moved if needed.
! 2) Feed both lines through the fuel tank compartment and through the predrilled hole in the firewall. Pull the lines out from behind the engine, while guiding the fuel tank into place. Push the fuel tank .
Molded Foam Fuel T ank Support
Wood block 4pcs
Pushrod Wire
Glue attached
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! !
! !
! 3) Attach the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire
to the throttle arm on the carburetor. You will need to remove the throttle arm from the car­buretor to be able to attach the Z-bend. When complete, reattach the throttle arm to the car­buretor.
PARTS REQUIRED
COWLING
! {1} Molded Fiberglass Cowling ! {4} 3mm x 12mm Wood Screws
Completely tighten the plates metal
Muffler exhaust
Cylinder head
Align the cowling on the fuselage and secure it with 4 buttom head screws. Do not overtighten the screw, as this will take away the vibration.
PROPELLER & SPINNER
Plate metal
Pushrod wire
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! 2. Position the servos into the servo tray with the output shafts orientated as shown below. Drill 1mm pilot holes through the tray for each of the mounting screws.
PUSHROD SLOT SYSTEM.
PARTS REQUIRED
! {1}Horizontal Stabilizer with Elevator
Halves Remove covering at vetical stabilizer mounting
slot and horizontal stabilizer mounting slot on fuselage.
INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS
PARTS REQUIRED
! 1 Install the switch into the precut hole in the servo tray. Use the two screws pro­vided with the switch to secure it in place. Drill two 3mm holes through the tray for the screws to pass through. ! 2 Using a 2mm drill bit, drill a hole through the side of the fuselage, opposite the muffler, even with the switch.
INSTALLING THE SWITCH
! 3 Make a push-pull lever out of scrap wire. Attach the wire to the switch lever and route the wire out the side of the fuselage, through the hole you drilled.
Some switches come with a hole drilled
through the switch tab for this very pur-
pose. If your switch does not, remove the switch and drill a 2mm hole through the middle of the switch tab.
INSTALLING THE SERVOS
! 1. Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the elevator, rudder and throttle servos. Test fit the servos into the preinstalled servo tray.Because the size of servos differ, you may need to adjust the size of the precut openings in the tray.
servos
switch
battery
receiver
Rudder+tail wheel
Elevator
Throttle
horizontal stabilizer mounting slot
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Make mark and cut 3 slots for pushrod exit follow picture below.
Ruller
pen
paper A4 size
Draw 2columns with 2mm width
5.5 cm
5 cm
Elevator pushrod slot exit
5.5 cm
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Fuselage
Connector
T AIL WHEEL INST ALLA TION.
INST ALLATION THE HORIZONT AL ST ABILIZER
! 1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and place a mark. Use a tri­angle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer. Also extend this mark down the back of the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
Central line
Stearing arm
5 cm
Draw a straight line ­continue with rudder slot
Connector (3 pcs)Connector (3 pcs)Connector (3 pcs)
Connector
Draw pen line
1.2cm
5.5cm
Rudder pushrod slot exit
6cm
Tail wheel pushrod exit slot
Elevator pushrod slot exit
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The top of the stabilizer does not have the hinge pins exposed.
! 2) Using a modeling knife, carefully re­move the covering from over the vertical sta­bilizer mounting slot in the top of the fuselage.
! 3) Slide the stabilizer into place in the pre­cut slot in the rear of the fuselage. The stabi­lizer should be pushed firmly against the front of the slot.
! 4) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen and draw lines onto the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and left sides and top and bottom of the stabilizer.
! 5) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the covering from between them using a model­ing knife.
! 7) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Flash 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the stabilizer mount­ing area and to the stabilizer mounting plat­form sides in the fuselage. Slide the stabi­lizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the ep­oxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T­pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alco­hol.
When cutting through the covering to
remove it, cut with only enough pres­sure to only cut through the covering it­self. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.
! 6) Using a modeling knife, carefully re­move the covering that overlaps the stabilizer mounting platform sides in the fuselage. Re­move the covering from both the top and the bottom of the platform sides.
! 8) After the epoxy has fully cured, re- move the masking tape or T-pins used to hold the stabilizer in place. Carefully inspect the glue joints. Use more epoxy to fill in any gaps that may exist that were not filled previously and clean up the excess using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Remove covering
VERTICAL STABILIZER
INSTALLATION
PARTS REQUIRED
! {1} Vertical Stabilizer with Rudder
pen
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! 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a mod­eling knife, remove the covering from below the lines you drew. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer and the bottom and top edges of the filler block. Leave the covering in place on the sides of the filler block.
When cutting through the covering to
remove it, cut with only enough pres­sure to only cut through the covering it­self. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.
! 5) Slide the vertical stabilizer back in place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the hori­zontal stabilizer.
! 6) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Flash 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top of the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of the vertical sta­bilizer mounting area. Apply epoxy to the bot­tom and top edges of the filler block and to the lower hinge also. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your mea­surements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or mask­ing tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.
90º
Vertical
Stabilizer
Horizontal
Stabilizer
TAIL F AIRING FRB &
RUDDER CONTROL HORN INST ALLATION
! !
! !
! 1) Locate the one nylon control horn.
! !
! !
! 2) Position the rudder control horn on the
left side of rudder. The clevis attach- ment holes should be positioned over the hinge line.
ALIGNING THE VERTICAL ST ABILIZER
! 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the precut hinge slot cut into the lower rear portion of the fuselage. This slot accepts the lower rudder hinge.
! 2) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the slot in the top of the fuselage. The rear edge of the stabilizer should be flush with the rear edge of the fuselage. The bottom edge of the stabilizer should also be firmly pushed against the top of the horizontal stabilizer.
! 3) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage.
Remove covering
Pen
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! !
! !
! 3) Using a 1mm drill bit and the control
horn as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the rudder .
! !
! !
! 4) Mount the control horns by inserting the
screws through the control horn bases and rudder then into the mounting backplates. Do Not overtighten the screws or the backplates may crush the wood.
Control Horn
Mounting Screws
Mounting Plate
T AIL WHEEL PUSHROD INST ALLA TION
ELEVA T OR VONTROL HORN INST ALLA TION
! !
! !
! 1) Locate the one nylon control horn.
! !
! !
! 2) Position the elevator control horn on
the bottom side of elevator. The clevis attachment holes should be positioned over the hinge line.
! !
! !
! 5) Installing the tail fairing as same as
picture bellow.
! !
! !
! 5) Rudder pushrod installation as same
as picture below
Pushrod wire
4 pcs machine screws (2pcs for each side)
Epoxy secure tail fairing
T ail wheel pushrod wire
Stearing arm
T ail wheel pushrod
Rudder pushrod.
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Control Horn
Mounting Screws
Mounting Plate
! !
! !
! 3) Using a 1mm drill bit and the control
horn as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the elevator .
q 4) Mount the control horns by inserting the
screws through the control horn bases and elevator , then into the mounting backplates. Do Not overtighten the screws or the backplates may crush the wood.
Elevator
Rudder
Throttle
WING ATTACHMENT TO FUSELAGE
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FLIGHT PREPARATION
! 1) Check the operation and direction of the elevator, rudder, ailerons and throttle. ! A) Plug in your radio system per the manufacturer's instructions and turn every­thing on. ! B) Check the elevator first. Pull back on the elevator stick. The elevator halves should move up. If it they do not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
! C) Check the rudder. Looking from behind the airplane, move the rudder stick to the right. The rudder should move to the right. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction. ! D) Check the throttle. Moving the throttle stick forward should open the carbu­retor barrel. If it does not, flip the servo re­versing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
! 2) Check Control Surface Throw. ! A) The Rudder should move 3/4” left and 3/4” right from center. If it moves too far, turn the adjustable control horn out away from the rudder. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw. ! B) Both elevator halves should move 5/16” up and 5/16” down from center. If they move too far, turn the adjustable control horns out away from the elevator halves. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw. Both elevator halves should also travel the same amount throughout their total movement. ! C) The ailerons should move 3/16” up and 3/16” down from center. If the ailerons move too much, turn the adjustable control horns out away from the wing. Do the oppo­site if there is not enough throw. It is impor­tant that both ailerons move the same amount, both up and down.
To correct this, move the battery and receiver forward orif this is not possible, stick weight onto the firewall or use a brass heavy hub spin­ner hub, similar to those offered by Harry Higley. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.
BALANCING
! 1) It is critical that your airplane be bal­anced correctly. Improper balance will cause your plane to lose control and crash. The cen­ter of gravity is located 6-8cm back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the wing tip.
! 2) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane is nose heavy. To correct this first move the battery pack further back in the fuselage. If this is not possible or does not correct it, stick small amounts of lead weight on the fuselage sides under the horizontal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy.
! E)From behind the airplane, look at the aileron on the right wing half. Move the aileron stick to the right. The right aileron should move up and the other aileron should move down. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
! D) Once the control throws and move­ments are set, tubing must be added to the clevises to ensure they do not release in the air. Cut a piece of fuel line into five 1/4” long pieces. Unsnap the clevises and slip one piece over each clevis. Snap the clevises back in place and slide the tubing up over them.
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CONTROL THROWS
! 1) We highly recommend setting up the Zero using the control throws listed at right. We have listed control throws for both Low Rate (initial test flying/sport flying) and High Rate (aerobatic flying).
! 2) Turn on the radio system, and with the trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center the control surfaces by making adjustments to the clevises or adjustable servo connec­tors. The servo arms should be centered also.
! 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and check the amount of the control throw in each surface. The control throws should be mea-
sured at the widest point of each surface!
Low Rate
Caution: Do not use the High Rate (aero­batic settings) for initial test flying or sport flying.
Ailerons: 1/4” up 1/4” down Elevator: 1/2” up 1/2” down Rudder: 3/4” right and left
High Rate
Ailerons: 3/8” up 3/8” down Elevator: 1” up 1”down Rudder: 1” right and left
PREFLIGHT CHECK
! 1) Completely charge your transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.
! 2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the ZERO FIGHTER to ensure that every­thing is tight and well bonded.
! 3) Double check the balance of the air­plane. Do this with the fuel tank empty.
! 4) Check the control surfaces. All should move in the correct direction and not bind in any way.
! 8) Properly balance the propeller. An out of balance propeller will cause excessive vi­bration which could lead to engine and/or air­frame failure.
! 5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches double check that they are on the low rate setting for your first few flights.
! 6) Check to ensure the control surfaces are moving the proper amount for both low and high rate settings.
! 7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.
We wish you many safe and enjoyable flights with your ZERO FIGHTER .
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