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PC-9 semi Scale ARF Model
Hand-made Hand-made
Hand-made
Hand-made Hand-made
Almost RAlmost R
Almost R
Almost RAlmost R
AircraftAircraft
Aircraft
AircraftAircraft
ASSEMBLASSEMBL
ASSEMBL
ASSEMBLASSEMBL
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y R/C Modely R/C Model
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ALAL
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ALAL
MS:12
Specifications
Wingspan---------------------------------------60.63in, 1540mm.
Wing area--------------------------------610 sq.in, 37.04sq.dm.
Fuselage length--------------------------------43.7in, 1110mm.
Approximate flying weight---------5.5-5.95lbs, 2500-2700g.
Recommended engine size---------.40-.58 cu.in. 2-stroke.
----------------------------------------------.50-.72 cu.in. 4-stroke.
Recommended R/C-----------------------4 channel minimum.
Flying skill level-------------------------Intermediate/advanced.
Kit features.
• Ready-made—minimal assembly & finishing required.
• Factory-installed pushrods.
• Comprehensive hardware pack including wheels, tank,
undercarriage & spinner.
• Photo-illustrated step-by-step Assembly Manual.
Additional items required.
Engine.
4 Channel or greater Radio Control system.
Glues.
Tools.
Starting Equipment.
Made in Vietnam.
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INTRODUCTION.
Thank you for choosing the PC-9 ARTF by SEAGULL MODELS. The PC-9 was designed with
the intermediate/advanced sport flyer in mind. It is a low-wing scale aeroplane which is easy to fly
and quick to assemble. The airframe is conventionally built using balsa, plywood and veneer to make
it stronger than the average ARTF , yet the design allows the aeroplane to be kept light. You will find
that most of the work has been done for you already. The pushrods are pre-made to the correct
lengths, the motor mount has been fitted and the hinges are pre-installed and pinned for security.
Flying the PC-9 is simply a joy.
This instruction manual is designed to help you build a great flying aeroplane. Please read this
manual thoroughly before starting assembly of your PC-9 . Use the parts listing below to identify all
parts.
WARNING.
Please be aware that this aeroplane is not a toy and if assembled or used incorrectly it is capable
of causing injury to people or property. WHEN YOU FLY THIS AEROPLANE YOU ASSUME ALL
RISK & RESPONSIBILITY.
If you are inexperienced with basic R/C flight we strongly recommend you contact your R/C
supplier and join your local R/C Model Flying Club. R/C Model Flying Clubs offer a variety of training
procedures designed to help the new pilot on his way to successful R/C flight. They will also be able
to advise on any insurance and safety regulations that may apply.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.
* .40-.58 2-stroke engine.
* .50-.72 4-stroke engine.
* 4-channel radio with five servos.
* Glow plug to suit engine.
* Propeller to suit engine.
* Protective foam rubber for radio
system.
* Silicone fuel line.
* Stick-on weights for balance
(If necessary).
TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED.
* Thick cyanoacrylate glue.
* 30 minute epoxy.
* 6 minute epoxy.
* Hand or electric drill.
* Assorted drill bits.
* Modelling knife.
* Straight edge ruler.
* 2mm ball driver.
* Phillips head screwdriver.
* 220 grit sandpaper.
* 90° square or builder’s triangle.
* Wire cutters.
* Masking tape & T-pins.
* Thread-lock / Paper towels.
PARTS LISTING.
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
* (1) Fuselage.
* (1) Pre-installed throttle pushrod &
tube.
* (1) Pre-installed servo tray.
WING ASSEMBLY
* (1) Right wing half with preinstalled aileron.
* (1) Left wing half with pre-installed
aileron.
* (1) Aluminium wing dihedral
brace.
TAIL SECTION ASSEMBLY
* (1) Vertical stabilizer with preinstalled rudder.
* (1) Horizontal stabilizer with preinstalled elevator halves.
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NOTE:To avoid scratching your new aero-
plane we suggest that you cover
your workbench with an old towel.
Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy
to hold the small parts after you open
the bags.
Please trial fit all parts. Make sure
you have the correct parts and that
they fit and are aligned properly before gluing! This will ensure proper
assembly as the PC-9 is made from
natural materials and minor adjustments may have to be made.
The paint and plastic parts used in
this kit are fuel proof. However, they
are not tolerant of many harsh chemicals including the following: paint
thinner, cyano-acrylate glue accelerator, cyanoacrylate glue de-bonder
and acetone. Do not let these chemicals come in contact with the colours
on the covering and the plastic parts.
HINGING THE AILERONS.
Note:
1) Carefully remove the aileron from one of
the wing panels. Note the position of the hinges.
2) Remove each hinge from the wing panel
and aileron and place a T-pin in the center of
each hinge. Slide each hinge into the aileron
until the T -pin is snug against the aileron. This
will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is
on either side of the hinge line when the aileron
is mounted to the wing panel.
The control surfaces, including the
ailerons, elevators, and rudder, are
prehinged with hinges installed, but the
hinges are not glued in place. It is
imperative that you properly adhere the
hinges in place per the steps that follow
using a high-quality thin C/A glue.
T-pin.
Hinge.
3) Slide the aileron on the wing panel until
there is only a slight gap. The hinge is now
centered on the wing panel and aileron.
Remove the T-pins and snug the aileron
against the wing panel. A gap of 1/64” or less
should be maintained between the wing panel
and aileron.
T-pin.
4)Deflect the aileron and completely
saturate each hinge with thin C/A glue. The
ailerons front surface should lightly contact the
wing during this procedure. Ideally , when the
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PC-9 Instruction Manual.
hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less
will be maintained throughout the lengh of the
aileron to the wing panel hinge line.
Note:
5) Turn the wing p anel over and deflect the
aileron in the opposite direction from the
opposite side. Apply thin C/A glue to each
hinge, making sure that the C/A penetrates into
both the aileron and wing panel.
The hinge is constructed of a special
material that allows the C/A to wick or
penetrate and distribute throughout the
hinge, securely bonding it to the wood
structure of the wing panel and aileron.
C/A glue.
Note:
Work the aileron up and down several
times to “work in” the hinges and check
for proper movement.
HINGING THE ELEVATOR.
Glue the elevator hinges in place using the
same tectniques used to hinge the ailerons.
Apply epoxy glue.
Metal wire.
C/A glue.
6) Using C/A remover/debonder and a
paper towel, remove any excess C/A glue that
may have accumulated on the wing or in the
aileron hinge area.
7) Repeat this process with the other wing
panel, securely hinging the aileron in place.
8) Af ter both ailerons are securely hinged,
firmly grasp the wing panel and aileron to
make sure the hinges are securely glued and
cannot be pulled out. Do this by carefully
applying medium pressure, trying to separate
the aileron from the wing panel. Use caution
not to crush the wing structure.
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C/A glue.
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HINGING THE RUDDER.
Glue the elevator hinges in place using the
same tectniques used to hinge the ailerons.
WING ASSEMBLY.
Epoxy .
Carefully slide the two wing halves together
and firmly press them together, allowing the
excess epoxy to run out. There should not be
any gap in the wing halves. Use rubbing
alcohol and a paper tower to clean up any
excess epoxy.
We highly recommend using 30 minute
epoxy as it is stronger and provides more
working time, allowing the builder to properly
align the parts. Using fast cure epoxy when
joining the wing halves could result in the glue
drying before the wing halves are aligned
properly which may result in failure of the wing
centre section during flight.
1) Locate the wing dihedral brace. Using a
ruler, locate its centre and draw a vertical line.
Centre line.
2) Test fit the dihedral brace into each wing
half. The brace should slide in easily up to the
centreline that you drew.
Apply masking t ape at the wing join to hold
the wing halves together securely .
Masking tape.
Dihedral brace.
3) Remove the brace when satisfied with
its fit in each wing half. Coat dihedral brace
with 30 minute epoxy. Next, pour some epoxy
into the dihedral box in one wing panel.
4) Peel off the backing from the self
adhesive covering strip. Apply the strip to the
centre section of the wing starting from the
bottom trailing edge. Wrap the strip all the way
around the wing until it meets the trailing edge
again. Trim off any excess strip.
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Thread.
Remove covering.
Small weight.
Glue attached.
INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS.
Thread.
Servo.
1) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto the aileron servo. Test fit the
servo into the aileron servo mount.
Because the size of servos differ, you
may need to adjust the size of the precut
opening in the mount. The notch in the sides
of the mount allow the servo lead to pass
through.
Secure the servos with the screws pro-
vided from your radio system.
Small
weight.
3) Attach servo lead to the aileron servo.
Attach the string to the servo lead and carefully thread it though the wing. Once you have
thread the lead throught the wing, remove the
string so it can use for the other servo lead.
Thread.
2) Using a small weight (Weighted fuel
pick-up works well) and thread, feed the string
through the wing as indicated.
Thread.
Small weight.
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Thread.
4) Tape the servo lead to the wing to prevent it from falling back into the wing.
AILERON LINKAGE.
1) Using a ruler & pen to draw a straight
line as below picture.
Pen.
Plastic tape.
5) Reinstall the servo into the servo mount
and secure the servo inplace using the wood
screws provided with you radio system.
Straight line.
2) Locate the two nylon control horns,
two nylon control horn backplates and four
machine screws.
3) Position the aileron horn on the bottom
side of aileron. The clevis attachment holes
should be positioned over the hinge line.
2mm X 20mm.
Repeat the procedure for the other wing
half.
Mounting Screws.
Control Horn.
Mounting Plate.
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4) Using a 1mm drill bit and the control
horns as a guide, drill the mounting holes
through the aileron halves.
5) Mount the control horns by inserting the
screws through the control horn bases and
aileron halves, then into the mounting
backplates. Do not overtighten the screws or
the backplates may crush the wood.
6) Thread one nylon adjustable control
horn onto each aileron control rod. Thread the
horns on until they are flush with the ends of
the control rods.
7) With the aileron servo centered and
the aileron even with the trailing edge of the
wing attach the clevis to the control horn. Mark
the control wire where it crosses the servo
arm hole.
8) Make a 90-degree bend at the mark
and cut off the excess wire leaving 10mm past
the bend.
9) Connect the linkage as shown and
secure the control wire with a wire keeper .
Repeat the procedure for the other
aileron servo.
INSTALLING THE MAIN GEAR WIRES.
1) Using a modeling knife, remove the
covering from over the two main gear mounting slots located in the bottom of the wing.
Pen.
Cut.
Remove covering.
2) Insert the 90º bend of one main gear
wire into the predrilled hole in one mounting
slot.
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3) The landing gear wire is held in place
using two nylon landing gear straps and four
3mm x 12mm wood screws.
The straps should be located equal distance from the inside and outside ends
of the wire.
4) Using the two landing gear straps as a
guide, mark the locations of the four 3mm x
12mm mounting screws onto the wing surface.
8) Slide one 60mm diameter wheel onto
each axle and push them up against the wheel
collars. Slide the remaining wheel collars with
3mm x 6mm set screws onto the axles. Push
them up against the wheels and tighten the
set screws. The wheels should spin free and
not bind in any way . If they do bind, loosen the
set screws in the outer wheel collars and move
the collars out a small amount. Retighten the
set screws.
5) Remove the two straps and the gear
wire. Drill four 3/32” pilot holes into the wing
for the wood screws.
Be careful do not to drill through the
top of the wing!
6) Reinstall the gear wire and install the
straps using the four 3mm x 12mm wood
screws. Tighten the screws completely to secure the gear wire in place.
NOSE GEAR INSTALLATION.
Installing steering arm as below.
7) Slide one wheel collar with 3mm x
6mm set screw onto each axle. Push the
wheel collars on as far as they will go and
tighten the set screws.
Be careful not to overtighten the set
screws. Overtightening may cause the
threads to strip.
Steering arm.
Adjust the nose gear steering arm until the
arm is parallel with the fire wall.
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FUEL TANK.
Install the pushrod wire as shown.
INSTALLING THE ST OPPER ASSEMBL Y.
Adjustable
Connector.
INST ALLING THE NOSE GEAR WHEEL.
Slide one 60mm diameter wheel collar onto
the axle and tighten. Slide the nose wheel on
and push it up against the wheel collar. Slide
the remaining wheel collar on and push it up
against the wheel and tighten the set screw.
The wheels should spin free and not bind in
any way .
1) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut
off the rear portion of one of the two nylon tubes
leaving 1/2” protruding from the rear of the
stopper. This will be the fuel pick up tube.
2) Using a modeling knife, cut one length
of silicon fuel line (not included) to 2-1/4” long.
Connect one end of the line to the weighted
fuel pickup and the other end to the nylon
pickup tube.
3) Carefully bend the second nylon tube
up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube.
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4) Carefully heat the vent tube using a
heat gun or lighter to permanently set the
angle of the tube.
Vent tube.
Fuel Fill Tube.
When the stopper assembly is installed in
the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest
just below the top surface of the tank. It should
not touch the top of the tank.
5) Test fit the stopper assembly into the
tank. It may be necessary to remove some of
the flashing around the tank opening using a
modeling knife. If flashing is present, make
sure none falls into the tank.
Fuel Pickup
Tube.
INSTALLING THE FUEL TANK.
Pushrod wire.
Using a modeling knife, cut one length of
fuel line 20” long. Connect one line to the vent
tube and one line to the fuel pick up tube on
the stopper. See picture bellow.
Plastic tape.
6) With the stopper assembly in place,
the weighted pickup should rest about 3/8”
away from the rear of the tank and move freely
inside the tank. The top of the vent tube should
rest just below the top of the tank. It should
not touch the top of the tank.
7) When satisfied with the alignment of
the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm
machine screw until the rubber stopper expands and seals the tank opening. Do not
overtighten the assembly as this could cause
the tank to split.
Pull.
Blow through the tubes to make sure the
lines have not become kinked during
installation.
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Fuel tank.
Vent tube.
Fuel fill tube.
Fuel pickup
tube.
MOUNTING THE ENGINE.
1) Trial fit your engine on the motor mount.
The engine should be positioned so there is
ample clearance in the cowling for spinner
backplate mounted to the prop drive shaft.
2) Marking 4 points on the plastic motor
mount.
5) Attach the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire
to the throttle arm on the carburetor. You will
need to remove the throttle arm from the carburetor to be able to attach the Z-bend. When
complete, reattach the throttle arm to the carburetor.
Pushrod wire.
3) Screw 4 pilot holes with 2.5 mm diam-
eter
4) Secure your engine on the motor mount
by mounting with 4 machine screws.
2.5mm.
3mm X 25mm.
12
11cm.
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COWLING.
1) Slide the fiberglass cowl over the engine and line up the back edge of the cowl with
the marks you made on the fuselage
4) Remove the cowl. Using a 5/64” drill
bit, enlarge the holes in only the four cowl
blocks.
5) Using a 1/8” drill bit. Enlarging the holes
through the cowl will prevent the fiberglass
from splitting when the mounting screws are
installed.
6) Slide the cowl back over the engine and
secure it in place using four 3mm x 12mm
wood screws. See picture below.
Trim and cut.
Trim and cut.
2) While keeping the back edge of the
cowl flush with the marks, align the front of
the cowl with the crankshaft of the engine. The
front of the cowl should be positioned so the
crankshaft is in the middle of the cowl opening. Hold the cowl firmly in place using pieces
of masking tape.
Because of the diameter of the cowl, it
may be necessary to use a needle valve extension for the high speed needle valve. Make
this out of sufficient length 1.5mm wire and install it into the end of the needle valve. Secure the wire in place by tightening the set
screw in the side of the needle valve.
7) Install the muffler and muffler extension
onto the engine and make the cutout in the
cowl for muffler clearance. Connect the fuel
and pressure lines to the carburetor, muffler
and fuel filler valve.
3) While holding the cowl firmly in position, drill four 1/16” pilot holes through both the
cowl and through the mounting blocks.
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PC-9 Instruction Manual.
INSTALLING THE SPINNER.
Install the spinner backplate, propeller
and spinner cone. The spinner cone is held in
place using two 3mm x 12mm wood screws.
The propeller should not touch any part
of the spinner cone. If it does, use a
sharp modeling knife and carefully trim away
the spinner cone where the propeller comes
in contact with it.
INSTALLING THE SWITCH.
1) Install the switch into the precut hole
in the servo tray , in the fuselage, from the bottom. Use the two screws provided with the
switch to secure it in place. Drill two 3/32”
holes through the tray for the screws to pass
through.
2) Using a 3/32” drill bit, drill a hole
through the side of the fuselage, opposite the
muffler, even with the switch.
3) Make a push-pull lever out of scrap
wire. Attach the wire to the switch lever and
route the wire out the side of the fuselage,
through the hole you drilled.
Some switches come with a hole drilled
through the switch tab for this very purpose. If your switch does not, remove the
switch and drill a 3/32” hole through the middle
of the switch tab.
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INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS.
1) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto the elevator, rudder and throttle
servos. T est fit the servos into the preinst alled
servo tray. Because the size of servos differ, you may need to adjust the size of the
precut openings in the tray.
Secure the servos with the screws pro-
vided from your radio system.
2) Position the servos into the servo tray
with the output shafts orientated as shown
below. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the tray
for each of the mounting screws.
3) Slide the stabilizer into place in the precut slot in the rear of the fuselage. The stabilizer should be pushed firmly against the front
of the slot.
4) When you are satisfied with the alignment, hold the stabilizer in place with T- pins
or masking tape, but do not glue at this time.
MOUNTING THE HORIZONTA L ST ABILIZER.
1) With the stabilizer held firmly in place,
use a pen and draw lines onto the stabilizer
where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this
on both the right and left sides and top and
bottom of the stabilizer .
Pen.
Rudder.
Elevator.
ALIGNING THE HORIZONT AL ST ABILIZER.
1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the
centerline of the horizontal stabilizer , at the trailing edge, and place a mark. Use a triangle
and extend this mark, from back to front,
across the top of the stabilizer. Also extend
this mark down the back of the trailing edge of
the stabilizer .
Draw center line.
Throttle.
Switch.
2) Remove the stabilizer . Using the lines
you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the
covering from between them using a modeling knife.
Remove covering.
When cutting through the covering to re-
move it, cut with only enough pressure
to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting
into the balsa structure may weaken it.
3) Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering that overlaps the stabilizer
mounting platform sides in the fuselage. Remove the covering from both the top and the
bottom of the platform sides.
2) Using a modeling knife, carefully re-
move the covering from over the vertical stabilizer mounting slot in the top of the fuselage.
4) When you are sure that everything is
aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount
of 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the
top and bottom of the stabilizer mounting area
and to the stabilizer mounting platform sides
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PC-9 Instruction Manual.
in the fuselage. Slide the stabilizer in place
and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures.
Hold the stabilizer in place with T -pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using
a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
5) After the epoxy has fully cured, re-
move the masking tape or T -pins used to hold
the stabilizer in place. Carefully inspect the
glue joints. Use more epoxy to fill in any gaps
that may exist that were not filled previously
and clean up the excess using a paper towel
and rubbing alcohol.
VERTICAL ST ABILIZER
INST ALLATION.
2) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the slot
in the top of the fuselage. The rear edge of
the stabilizer should be flush with the rear edge
of the fuselage and the lower rudder hinge
should engage the precut hinge slot in the
lower fuselage. The bottom edge of the stabilizer should also be firmly pushed against the
top of the horizontal stabilizer.
3) While holding the vertical stabilizer
firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on
each side of the vertical stabilizer where it
meets the top of the fuselage.
1) Using a modeling knife, remove the
covering from over the precut hinge slot cut
into the lower rear portion of the fuselage. This
slot accepts the lower rudder hinge.
Hinge slot.
Pen.
4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a modelling knife, remove the covering from below
the lines you drew . Also remove the covering
from the bottom edge of the stabilizer and the
bottom and top edges of the filler block. Leave
the covering in place on the sides of the filler
block.
When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to only
cut through the covering itself. Cutting into
the balsa structure may weaken it.
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Remove covering.
5) Slide the vertical stabilizer back in
place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that
the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the horizontal stabilizer.
Vertical
Horizontal
St abilizer.
90º
St abilizer.
2) Position the two elevator horns on the
bottom side of each elevator. The clevis attach- ment holes should be positioned over
the hinge line.
2mm X 20mm.
Control Horn.
6) When you are sure that everything is
aligned correctly , mix up a generous amount of
Flash 30 Minute Epoxy . Apply a thin layer to the
mounting slot in the top of the fuselage and to
the sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizer
mounting area. Apply epoxy to the bottom and.
top edges of the filler block and to the lower
hinge also. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements
once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the
stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape
and remove any excess epoxy using a paper
towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to
fully cure before proceeding
Mounting Screws.
Mounting Plate.
3) Using a 5/64" drill bit and the control
horns as a guide, drill the mounting holes
through the elevator halves.
4) Mount the control horns by inserting
the screws through the control horn bases and
eleva- tor halves, then into the mounting
backplates. Do not overtighten the screws or
the backplates may crush the wood.
5) Position the rudder control horn on the
left side of the airplane.
6) Install the rudder control horn using the
same method as with the elevator control
horns.
CONTROL HORN INSTALLATION.
1) Locate the two nylon control horns, two
nylon control horn backplates and four 2 x
20mm machine screws.
Left side.
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ELEVATOR-RUDDER PUSHROD
INSTALLATION.
Clevis.
Control horn.
Elevator pushrod.
Rudder pushrod.
Cut.
Antenna.
Modified
Servo Arm.
Battery.
Receiver.
Tie wrap.
ATTACHMENT WING - FUSELAGE.
See picture below:
Rubber
Band.
Rudder.
Throttle.
Elevator.
INST ALLING THE RECEIVER AND BA TTERY.
1) Plug the five servo leads and the switch
Switch.
lead into the receiver. Plug the battery pack
lead into the switch also.
2) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in
the protective foam rubber to protect them
from vibration
3) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole through
the side of the fuselage, near the receiver, for
the antenna to exit. Route the antenna out of
the fuselage and secure it to the vertical stabilizer using a rubber band and a modified servo
arm. See picture as below.
BALANCING.
1) It is critical that your airplane be balanced correctly . Improper balance will cause
your plane to lose control and crash. The center of gravity is located 8-9.5cm back from the
leading edge of the wing, at the fuselage sides.
Balance the PC-9 upside down with the fuel
tank empty.
2) Mount the wing to the fuselage. Using
a couple of pieces of masking tape, place them
on the top side of the wing 8cm back from the
leading edge, at the fuselage sides.
3) Turn the airplane upside down. Place
your fingers on the masking tape and carefully lift the plane.
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4) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane
is nose heavy. To correct this first move the
battery pack further back in the fuselage. If
this is not possible or does not correct it, stick
small amounts of lead weight on the fuselage
sides under the horizontal stabilizer . If the tail
of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy. To
correct this, move the battery and receiver
forward orif this is not possible, stick weight
onto the firewall. When balanced correctly , the
airplane should sit level or slightly nose down
when you lift it up with your fingers.
CONTROL THROWS.
1) We highly recommend setting up the
PC-9 using the control throws listed below. We
have listed control throws for both initial test
flying/sport flying and aerobatic flying.
2) Turn on the radio system, and with the
trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center
the control surfaces by making adjustments
to the clevises or adjustable servo connectors.
The servo arms should be centered also.
PREFLIGHT CHECK.
1) Completely charge your transmitter
and receiver batteries before your first day of
flying.
2) Check every bolt and every glue joint
in the PC-9 to ensure that everything is tight
and well bonded.
3) Double check the balance of the airplane. Do this with the fuel tank empty .
4) Check the control surfaces. All should
move in the correct direction and not bind in
any way .
5) If your radio transmitter is equipped
with dual rate switches double check that they
are on the low rate setting for your first few
flights.
6) Check to ensure the control surfaces
are moving the proper amount for both low
and high rate settings.
3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron
control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and
check the amount of the control throw in each
surface. The control throws should be
measured at the widest point of each surface!
INITIAL FL YING/SPORT FL YING
Ailerons: 3/16” up 3/16” down
Elevator: 5/16” up 5/16” down
Rudder: 3/4” right 3/4” left
AEROBATIC FL YING
Ailerons: 3/8” up 3/8” down
Elevator: 5/8” up 5/8” down
Rudder: 1-1/4” right 1-1/4” left
Do not use the aerobatic settings for
initial test flying or sport flying.
7) Check the receiver antenna. It should
be fully extended and not coiled up inside the
fuselage.
8) Properly balance the propeller . An out
of balance propeller will cause excessive vibration which could lead to engine and/or airframe failure.
We wish you many safe and enjoyable
flights with your PC-9.
4) By moving the position of the adjustable control horn out from the control surface,
you will decrease the amount of throw of that
control surface. Moving the adjustable control horn toward the control surface will increase the amount of throw.
19
Page 20
PC-9 Instruction Manual.
20
The pictures and parts shown above should be changed without notice.
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