Seagull Models HARMON ROCKET III Assembly Manual

HARMON ROCKET III
Made in Vietnam.
Kit features.
Ready-made—minimal assembly & finishing required.
Ready-covered covering.
Photo-illustrated step-by-step Assembly Manual.
Specifications
Radio System required 4 channel with 6 servos. Flying skill level Intermediate/advanced.
Hand-made Almost Ready to Fly R/C Model Aircraft
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
HARMON ROCKET III. Instruction Manual.
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INTRODUCTION.
Thank you for choosing the Harmon Rocket III ARTF by SEAGULL MODELS. The Harmon Rocket III was designed with the intermediate/advanced sport flyer in mind. It is a semi scale airplane which
is easy to fly and quick to assemble. The airframe is conventionally built using balsa, plywood to make it stronger than the average ARTF , yet the design allows the aeroplane to be kept light. You will find that most of the work has been done for you already.Flying the Harmon Rocket III is simply a joy.
This instruction manual is designed to help you build a great flying aeroplane. Please read this manual thoroughly before starting assembly of your Harmon Rocket III. Use the parts listing below to identify all parts.
WARNING.
Please be aware that this aeroplane is not a toy and if assembled or used incorrectly it is capable of causing injury to people or property. WHEN YOU FLY THIS AEROPLANE YOU ASSUME ALL RISK & RESPONSIBILITY.
If you are inexperienced with basic R/C flight we strongly recommend you contact your R/C supplier and join your local R/C Model Flying Club. R/C Model Flying Clubs offer a variety of training procedures designed to help the new pilot on his way to successful R/C flight. They will also be able to advise on any insurance and safety regulations that may apply.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED.
.40-.46 2-stroke engine
.52-.82 4-stroke engine
Computer radio with six servos Glow plug to suit engine Propeller to suit engine Protective foam rubber for radio
system
Silicone fuel line
TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED.
Thick cyanoacrylate glue 30 minute epoxy 5 minute epoxy Hand or electric drill Assorted drill bits Modelling knife Straight edge ruler 2mm ball driver Phillips head screwdriver 220 grit sandpaper 90° square or builder’s triangle Wire cutters Masking tape & T-pins Thread-lock Paper towels
PARTS LISTING.
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
(1) Fuselage (1) Canopy hatch
WING ASSEMBLY
(1) Right wing half with pre-installed
aileron
(1) Left wing half with pre-installed
aileron
(1) Aluminium dihedral brace
Tail section assembly
(1) Horizontal stabilizer with pre-
installed elevator halves
Some more parts.
HARDWARE PACK
COWLING
Landing gear.....
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NOTE: To avoid scratching your new aero-
plane we suggest that you cover your workbench with an old towel. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the bags.
Please trial fit all parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are aligned properly before gluing! This will ensure proper as­sembly as the Harmon Rocket III is made from natural materials and minor adjustments may have to be made.
The paint and plastic parts used in this kit are fuel proof. However, they are not tolerant of many harsh chemi­cals including the following: paint thinner, cyano-acrylate glue accel­erator, cyanoacrylate glue de-bonder and acetone. Do not let these chemi­cals come in contact with the colours on the covering and the plastic parts.
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4)Deflect the aileron and completely saturate each hinge with thin C/A glue. The ailerons front surface should lightly contact the wing during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less will be maintained throughout the lengh of the aileron to the wing panel hinge line.
Note:
The control surfaces, including the ailerons, elevators, and rudder, are prehinged with hinges installed, but the hinges are not glued in place. It is imperative that you properly adhere the hinges in place per the steps that follow using a high-quality thin C/A glue.
1) Carefully remove the aileron from one of the wing panels. Note the position of the hinges.
2) Remove each hinge from the wing panel and aileron and place a T-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into the aileron until the T -pin is snug against the aileron. This will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is on either side of the hinge line when the aileron is mounted to the wing panel.
HINGING THE AILERONS.
Note:
The hinge is constructed of a special material that allows the C/A to wick or penetrate and distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure of the wing panel and aileron.
7) Repeat this process with the other wing panel, securely hinging the aileron in place.
3) Slide the aileron on the wing panel until there is only a slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the wing panel and aileron. Remove the T-pins and snug the aileron against the wing panel. A gap of 1/64” or less should be maintained between the wing panel and aileron.
5) Turn the wing p anel over and deflect the aileron in the opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin C/A glue to each hinge, making sure that the C/A penetrates into both the aileron and wing panel.
6) Using C/A remover/debonder and a paper towel, remove any excess C/A glue that may have accumulated on the wing or in the aileron hinge area.
C/A glue.
C/A glue.
T-pin.
T-pin.
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8) After both ailerons are securely hinged, firmly grasp the wing panel and aileron to make sure the hinges are securely glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this by carefully applying medium pressure, trying to separate the aileron from the wing panel. Use caution not to crush the wing structure.
Note:Work the aileron up and down several
times to “work in” the hinges and check for proper movement.
1) Carefully remove the elevator from one of the horizontal stabilizer panels. Note the position of the hinges.
2) Remove each hinge from the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator and place a T -pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into the elevator until the T -pin is snug against the elevator. This will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is on either side of the hinge line when the elevator is mounted to the horizontal stabilizer panel.
4)Deflect the elevator and completely saturate each hinge with thin C/A glue. The elevators front surface should lightly contact the horizontal stabilizer during this procedure. Ideally , when the hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less will be maintained throughout the lengh of the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer panel hinge line.
Note: The hinge is constructed of a special
material that allows the C/A to wick or penetrate and distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure of the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator .
5) T urn the horizontal st abilizer p anel over and deflect the elevator in the opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin CA glue to each hinge, making sure that the C/A penetrates into both the elevator and horizontal stabilizer panel.
HINGING THE ELEV A TORS.
3) Slide the elevator on the horizontal stabilizer panel until there is only a slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator. Remove the T­pins and snug the elevator against the horizontal stabilizer panel. A gap of 1/64” or less should be maintained between the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator .
C/A glue.
6) Using C/A remover/debonder and a paper towel, remove any excess C/A glue that may have accumulated on the horizontal stabilizer or in the elevator hinge area.
8) Af ter both elevator are securely hinged, firmly grasp the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator to make sure the hinges are securely glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this by carefully applying medium pressure, trying to separate the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer panel. Use caution not to crush the horizontal stabilizer structure.
7) Repeat this process with the other horizontal stabilizer panel, securely hinging the elevator in place.
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4)Deflect the rudder and completely saturate each hinge with thin C/A glue. The rudder front surface should lightly contact the fuselage during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less will be maintained throughout the lengh of the rudder to the fuselage panel hinge line.
1) Carefully remove the rudder from one of the fuselage panel. Note the position of the hinges.
2) Remove each hinge from the fuselage panel and rudder and place a T -pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into the rudder until the T -pin is snug against the rudder . This will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is on either side of the hinge line when the rudder is mounted to the fuselage panel.
Note: The hinge is constructed of a special material that allows the C/A to wick or penetrate and distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure of the fuselage panel and rudder .
3) Slide the rudder on the fuselage panel until there is only a slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the fuselage panel and rudder . Remove the T-pins and snug the rudder against the fuselage panel. A gap of 1/64” or less should be maintained between the fuselage panel and rudder .
5) Turn the fuselage panel over and deflect the rudder in the opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin C/A glue to each hinge, making sure that the C/A penetrates into the rudder and fuselage panel.
6) Using C/A remover/debonder and a paper towel, remove any excess C/A glue that may have accumulated on the fuselage or in the rudder hinge area.
HINGING THE RUDDER.
C/A glue.
C/A glue.
Hinge.
Hinge.
Note:
Work the rudder left and right several times to “work in” the hinges and check for proper movement.
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Expoxy .
2) Remove the brace when satisfied with its fit ineach wing half. Coat both sides of one half of the dihedral brace with 30 minute epoxy. Next, pour some epoxy into the dihedral box in one wing panel. Make sure you cover the top and bottom as well as the sides of the dihedral brace. Use enough epoxy to fill any gaps.
1) Test fit the wing tube into each wing half. The brace should slide in easily up to the centreline that you drew.If not, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block and sand down the edges and ends of the brace until it fits properly.
Masking tape.
WING ASSEMBLY.
NOTE: We highly recommend using 30
minute epoxy as it is stronger and provides more working time, allowing the builder to properly align the parts. Using fast cure epoxy when joining the wing halves could result in the glue drying before the wing halves are aligned properly which may result in failure of the wing centre section during flight.
3) Peel off the backing from the self adhe­sive covering strip. Apply the strip to the centre section of the wing starting from the bottom trailing edge. Wrap the strip all the way around the wing until it meets the trailing edge again. Trim off any excess strip.
Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firmly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out. There should not be any gap in the wing halves. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper tower to clean up any excess epoxy.
Apply masking tape at the wing join to hold the wing halves together securely .
Centre line.
Masking tape.
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Attach servo lead to the aileron servo. Att ach the string to the servo lead and carefully thread it though the wing. Once you have thread the lead throught the wing, remove the string so it can use for the other servo lead. T ape the servo lead to the wing to prevent it from falling back into the wing.
We recommended to use long ser­vos arm for all servos without throttle
servo.
Because the size of servos differ,
you may need to adjust the size of the precut opening in the mount. The notch in the sides of the mount allow the servo lead to pass through.
Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the aileron servo. T est fit the servo into the aileron servo mount.
Install the servo into the servo tray.
Using a small weight (Weighted fuel pick-up
works well) and thread, feed the string through
the wing as indicated.
Small weight.
Thread.
Wing bottom.
INST ALLING THE AILERON SERVOS.
Remove covering.
Glue attached.
Servo.
Small weight.
Thread.
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AILERON LINKAGE.
INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE.
1) Using a ruler & pen to draw a straight line as below picture.
Install the aileron servo tray into the servo mount. Repeat the procedure for orther wing
haft.
Thread.
Pen.
Straight line.
Servo arm.
Thread.
Thread.
Small weight.
Plastic tape.
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4) Using a 1mm drill bit and the control horns as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the aileron halves.
5) Mount the control horns by inserting
the screws through the control horn bases and aileron halves, then into the mounting backplates. Do not overtighten the screws or the backplates may crush the wood.
6) Thread one nylon adjustable control horn onto each aileron control rod. Thread the horns on until they are flush with the ends of the control rods.
Repeat the procedure for the other aileron servo.
Cut.
M2 lock nut.
Snap keepper.
M2 clevis.
2) Locate the two nylon control horns, two nylon control horn backplates and two machine screws.
Control Horn.
Mounting Screws.
Mounting Plate.
2MM x 30 MM.
3) Position the aileron horn on the bottom side of aileron. The clevis attachment holes should be positioned over the hinge line.
Pen.
Aileron pushrod rod.
Clevis.
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M4.
ENGINE MOUNT.
See pictures below:
1) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut off the rear portion of one of the two nylon tubes leaving 1/2” protruding from the rear of the stopper. This will be the fuel pick up tube.
2) Using a modeling knife, cut one length of silicon fuel line . Connect one end of the line to the weighted fuel pickup and the other end to the nylon pickup tube.
3) Carefully bend the second nylon tube up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube.
4) Carefully heat the vent tube using a heat gun or lighter to permanently set the angle of the tube.
Silicon tubing not inclued.
Vent tube.
Fuel Pickup Tube.
Fuel Fill Tube.
Important: When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top surface of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.
When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top surface of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.
5) Test fit the stopper assembly into the tank. It may be necessary to remove some of
INST ALLING THE STOPPER ASSEMBL Y.
FUEL TANK.
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1) Install the pushrod housing through the
predrilled hole in the firewall and into the servo compartment. The pushrod housing should protrude 1/4" out past the front of the firewall.
You should mark which tube is the vent
and which is the fuel pickup when you attach fuel tubing to the tubes in the stopper. Once the tank is installed inside the fuselage, it may be difficult to determine which is which.
Slide the tank into the fuselage from inside so that the neck is at the top of the fuselage and it locates through the engine bulkhead. Gently secure it to the top horizontal former with a cable tie.
MOUNTING THE ENGINE.
PARTS REQUIRED
Blow through one of the lines to ensure
the fuel lines have not become kinked in­side the fuel tank compartment. Air should flow through easily .
Make a Z-Bend 1/4" from one end of the plain wire pushrod.
2) Place your engine onto the engine mount. Adjust the engine is centered of the edges of the engine case.
4) Remove the engine. Using an drill bit, drill the mounting holes through the engine mount at the four locations marked.
3) When you are satisfied with the align­ment, mark the locations of the engine mounting.
inside the tank. The top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.
7) When satisfied with the alignment of the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm machine screw until the rubber stopper ex­pands and seals the tank opening. Do not overtighten the assembly as this could cause the tank to split.
the flashing around the tank opening using a modeling knife. If flashing is present, make sure none falls into the tank.
6) With the stopper assembly in place, the weighted pickup should rest about 3/8” away from the rear of the tank and move freely
Fuel tank.
Fuel fill tube.
Fuel pickup tube.
Vent tube.
1 1.3cm.
EVOLUTION Engine .46.
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5) Bolt the engine to the engine mount using the four machine screws and lock washer. Double cheek that all the screws are tight before proceeding.
6) Att ach the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire to the throttle arm on the carburetor. You will need to remove the throttle arm from the car­buretor to be able to attach the Z-bend. When complete, reattach the throttle arm to the car­buretor.
4mm X 30mm.
4.2- 4.5mm.
Pushrod wire.
COWLING.
1) Slide the fiberglass cowl over the en­gine and line up the back edge of the cowl with the marks you made on the fuselage then trim and cut.
2) While keeping the back edge of the cowl flush with the marks, align the front of the cowl with the crankshaft of the engine. The front of the cowl should be positioned so the crank­shaft is in nearly the middle of the cowl open­ing. Use the spinner backplate as a guide. Hold the cowl firmly in place using pieces of mask­ing tape.
Trim and cut.
Trim and cut.
Trim and cut.
Because of the diameter of the cowl, it may be necessary to use a needle valve ex­tension for the high speed needle valve. Make this out of sufficient length 1.5mm wire and install it into the end of the needle valve. Se­cure the wire in place by tightening the set screw in the side of the needle valve.
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3) Slide the cowl back over the engine and secure it in place using four 3mm x 12mm wood screws. See picture below.
4) Install the muffler and muffler extension onto the engine and make the cutout in the cowl for muffler clearance. Connect the fuel and pressure lines to the carburetor, muffler and fuel filler valve.
1.5mm wire
(needle valve).
1) Install the spinner backplate, propeller and spinner cone. The spinner cone is held in place using two 3mm x 12mm wood screws.
The propeller should not touch any part
of the spinner cone. If it does, use a sharp modeling knife and carefully trim away the spinner cone where the propeller comes in contact with it.
INSTALLING THE SPINNER.
Machine screw 3mm X 12mm.
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(2) Wheel Collar.
Axle.
Wheel.
Nut.
Nut.
(2) Washer .
46mm.
WHEEL AND WHEEL PANTS.
PARTS REQUIRED
1) Assembling and mounting the wheel pants as shown below pictures.
2) Follow diagram below for wheel pant installation:
10MM.
3) You have to trim each axle using a toll cutting and cut-off wheel.
Caution when cutting the axles and wear
protective goggles.
Wheel Collar.
Axle.
Wheel.
Nut.
Wheel Pant.
Landing Gear.
Nut.
Plywood Washer .
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HORIZONTAL STABILIZER.
1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the centerline of the horizontal stabilizer , at the trail­ing edge, and place a mark. Use a triangle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer. Also extend this mark down the back of the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
3) Secure the servos with the screws pro­vided with your radio system.
1) Locate and cut out the covering film
from the servo holes in both sides of fuselage.
ELEVATOR - RUDDER SERVO
INSTALLATION.
2) Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the aileron servo. Test fit the servo into the aileron servo mount. Because the size of servos differ, you may need to adjust the size of the precut opening in the mount. The notch in the sides of the mount allow the servo lead to pass through.
4) A drop of C/A glue on the wheel collar
screws will help keep them from coming lose during operation.
Repeat the process for the other wheel.
1) The blind nuts for securing the landing gear are already mounted inside the fuselage.
2) Using the hardware provided, mount the main landing gear to the fuselage.
INST ALLING THE MAIN LANDING GEAR.
4mm X 20mm.
Left side.
Elevator servo.
Rudder servo.
Right side.
Elevator servo.
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Pen.
2)Using a modeling knife, carefully remove the covering at mounting slot of horizontal sta­bilizer ( both side of fuselage).
3) Slide the stabilizer into place in the pre­cut slot in the rear of the fuselage. The stabi­lizer should be pushed firmly against the front of the slot.
When cutting through the covering to remove it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.
5) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the covering from between them using a model­ing knife.
Center line.
4) With the stabilizer held firmly in place, use a pen and draw lines onto the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and left sides and top and bottom of the stabilizer.
6) Using a modeling knife, carefully re­move the covering that overlaps the stabilizer mounting platform sides in the fuselage. Re­move the covering from both the top and the bottom of the platform sides.
Remove covering.
8) After the epoxy has fully cured, re- move the masking tape or T-pins used to hold the stabilizer in place. Carefully inspect the glue joints. Use more epoxy to fill in any gaps that may exist that were not filled previously and clean up the excess using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
7) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the stabilizer mounting area and to the stabilizer mounting platform sides in the fuselage. Slide the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your mea­surements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T -pins or mask­ing tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
Remove covering.
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3) While holding the vertical stabilizer firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage.
4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a mod- eling knife, remove the covering from below the lines you drew . Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer and the bottom and top edges of the filler block. Leave the covering in place on the sides of the filler block.
When cutting through the covering to re­move it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.
Pen.
VERTICAL ST ABILIZER
INSTALLATION.
2) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the slot in the top of the fuselage. The rear edge of the stabilizer should be flush with the rear edge of the fuselage and the lower rudder hinge should engage the precut hinge slot in the lower fuselage. The bottom edge of the stabi­lizer should also be firmly pushed against the top of the horizontal stabilizer .
1) Using a modeling knife, remove the covering from over the precut hinge slot cut into the lower rear portion of the fuselage. This slot accepts the lower rudder hinge.
Hinge slot.
Remove covering.
Covered wood filler piece.
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2) Position the elevator horn on the both side of elevator. The clevis attach- ment holes should be positioned over the hinge line.
5) Slide the vertical stabilizer back in place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the hori­zontal stabilizer.
6) When you are sure that everything is aligned correctly , mix up a generous amount of Flash 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top of the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of the vertical stabilizer mounting area. Apply epoxy to the bottom and top edges of the filler block and to the lower hinge also. Set the stabilizer in place and re­align. Double check all of your measurements once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the epoxy to fully cure before proceeding.
3) Using a 1.5mm drill bit and the control horns as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the elevator halves.
Control Horn.
Mounting Screws.
Mounting Plate.
4) Mount the control horns by inserting the bolts through the control horn bases and elevator halves, then into the mounting backplates. Do not overtighten the nuts or the backplates may crush the wood.
5) Position the rudder control horn on the left side of the airplane. Mount the control horn parallel with the horizontal stabilizer .
6) Install the rudder control horn using the same method as with the elevator control horns.
2MM x 20MM.
C/A glue.
90º
Vertical
Stabilizer.
Horizontal
Stabilizer.
CONTROL HORN INSTALLATION.
1) Locate the two nylon control horns, two nylon control horn backplates and four machine screws.
Elevator control horn.
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1) Set the tail wheel assembly in place on the plywood plate. The pivot point of the tail wheel wire should be even with the rudder hinge line and the tail wheel bracket should be centered on the plywood plate.
2 Using a pen, mark the locations of the two mounting screws. Remove the tail wheel bracket and drill 1mm pilot holes at the loca­tions marked.
MOUNTING THE TAIL WHEEL BRACKET.
3) Secure the tail wheel bracket in place using two 3mm x 15mm wood screws. Be careful not to overtighten the screws.
1) Align the tail wheel wire so that the wire is parallel with the bottom of the rudder. The control clasp has a predrilled hole through the top of it. Slide this hole onto the tail wheel wire while sliding the clasp over the bottom of the rudder.
MOUNTING THE CONTROL CLASP.
2) Using a ruler and a pen place a mark onto the bottom of the rudder, in front of the rear edge of the tail wheel wire. The back edge of the clasp should line up with this mark. Y ou may find it necessary to bend the tail wheel wire down slightly so it lines up with the clasp without binding.
5) Rudder pushrods assembly follow picture below.
3) While holding the clasp firmly in place, use a pen and outline the clasp onto the rud­der.
4) Remove the clasp, and using a model­ing knife, remove the covering from inside the lines you drew. Use 220 grit sandpaper and carefully roughen the inside surface of the ny­lon clasp.
4) One at a time, hold the pushrods in po­sition over the respective servos to check for proper servo direction. If any servo turns in the wrong direction, switch your radio’s re­versing switches as necessary to achieve the correct direction.
2) Elevator pushrods assembly follow pictures below.
M2 lock nut.
Snap keepper.
M2 clevis.
3) Connect the elevator and rudder servos to your radio’s receiver and turn on the sys­tem. Set the trim tabs on the transmitter to neutral and center the servo arms. The eleva­tor and rudder servo arms should be perpen­dicular to the servos.
Elevator pushrod.
Pushrod.
Control horn.
Connector.
Metal clevis.
1) Thread one nylon adjustable control horn on to each aileron control rod. Thread the horns on until they are flush with the ends of the control rods.
ELEV ATOR - RUDDER PUSHROD INST ALLA TION.
Rudder control horn.
Elevator control horn.
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5) Slide the clasp back into position and carefully glue it into place using Kwik Bond Thin C/A. Hold the clasp in place until the glue com­pletely cures. Rescue the clap with bolt and nut as picture below.
INSTALLING THE SWITCH.
Install the switch into the precut hole in the servo tray, in the fuselage, from the bottom. Use the two screws provided with the switch to secure it in place. Drill two 3/32” holes through the tray for the screws to pass through.
Because the size of servos differ, you may need to adjust the size of the precut opening in the mount. The notch in the sides of the mount allow the servo lead to pass through.
2) Install the rubber grommets and brass collets onto the throttle servo. T est fit the servo into the aileron servo mount.
3) Secure the servos with the screws pro­vided with your radio system.
4) Install the pushrod throttle.
THROTTLE SERVO INSTALLATION.
1) Install adjustable servo connector in the servo arm.
Adjustable Servo connector.
Servo arm.
Control clasp.
2mm X 20mm.
Throttle.
Switch.
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3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and check the amount of the control throw in each surface. The control throws should be
measured at the widest point of each sur­face!
CONTROL THROWS.
1) We highly recommend setting up the
Harmon Rocket III using the control throws listed at right. We have listed control throws for both Low Rate (initial test flying/sport fly­ing) and High Rate (aerobatic flying).
2) Turn on the radio system, and with the trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center the control surfaces by making adjustments to the clevises or adjustable servo connec­tors. The servo arms should be centered also.
1) Plug the six servo leads and the switch lead into the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into the switch also.
2 Wrap the receiver and battery pack in the protective foam rubber to protect them from vibration.
INSTALLING THE RECEIVER AND BA TTERY.
3) Position the battery pack in the fuel tank compartment and the receiver just be­hind the fuel tank . Use extra foam pieces to hold them in position.
Antenna
Rubber
Band
Modified
Servo Arm
Cut
When balancing the airplane you may need to move the battery or receiver for-
ward or after to achieve proper balance.
4) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole through
the side of the fuselage, near the receiver, for the antenna to exit. Route the antenna out of the fuselage and secure it to the vertical stabi­lizer using a rubber band and a modified servo arm. See picture as below.
ATTACHMENT WING - FUSELAGE.
See picture below:
correct this, move the battery and receiver for­ward orif this is not possible, stick weight onto the firewall or use a brass heavy hub spinner hub, similar to those offered by Harry Higley. When balanced correctly , the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.
1) It is critical that your airplane be bal­anced correctly . Improper balance will cause your plane to lose control and crash. The cen­ter of gravity is located
3 1/4” to 3 1/2” be-
hind the leading edge of the wing. 2) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane
is nose heavy. To correct this first move the battery pack further back in the fuselage. If this is not possible or does not correct it, stick small amounts of lead weight on the fuselage sides under the horizontal stabilizer . If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy . To
BALANCING.
HARMON ROCKET III. Instruction Manual.
23
FLIGHT PREPARATION.
A) Check the operation and direction of the elevator, rudder, ailerons and throttle.
B) Plug in your radio system per the manufacturer's instructions and turn every­thing on.
C) Check the elevator first. Pull back on the elevator stick. The elevator halves should move up. If it they do not, flip the servo re­versing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
D) Check the rudder. Looking from be­hind the airplane, move the rudder stick to the right. The rudder should move to the right. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
E) Check the throttle. Moving the throttle stick forward should open the carburetor bar­rel. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches double check that they are on the low rate setting for your first few flights.
PREFLIGHT CHECK
1) Completely charge your transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.
2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the Harmon Rocket III to ensure that ev­erything is tight and well bonded.
3) Double check the balance of the air­plane. Do this with the fuel tank empty .
4) Check the control surfaces. All should move in the correct direction and not bind in any way .
6) Check to ensure the control surfaces are moving the proper amount for both low and high rate settings.
8) Properly balance the propeller . An out of balance propeller will cause excessive vi­bration which could lead to engine and/or air­frame failure.
We wish you many safe and enjoyable flights with your Harmon Rocket III.
7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.
4) By moving the position of the adjust­able control horn out from the control surface, you will decrease the amount of throw of that control surface. Moving the adjustable con­trol horn toward the control surface will in­crease the amount of throw.
F) From behind the airplane, look at the aileron on the right wing half. Move the aileron stick to the right. The right aileron should move up and the other aileron should move down. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
LOW RATE
Ailerons: 16 degrees - 5/8” Elevator: 13 degrees - 3/4” Rudder: 26 degrees - 1 1/4”
HIGH RATE
Ailerons: 20 degrees - 6/8” Elevator: 23 degrees - 1 1/8” Rudder: 26 degress - 1 1/4”
Do not use the aerobatic settings for initial test flying or sport flying.
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