Seagull Models DECATHLON Assembly Manual

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DECATHLON
Hand-made Almost Ready to Fly R/C Model Aircraft
ASSEMBLY MANUAL
Made in Vietnam.
Kit features
• Ready-made-minimal assembly & finishing required.
• Ready-covered covering.
• Factory-installed engine mount.
• Comprehensive hardware pack including wheels, tank, spats,undercarriage& spinner.
• Photo-illustrated step-by-step Assembly Manual.
SPECIFICATIONS:
WING SPAN ----------------------------------------172CM -------------------------------- 67.75 in. WING AREA --------------------------------------49.17Sq.dm -----------------------------762Sq.in. WEIGHT ---------------------------------------3.17 - 3.62KG ----------------------- 7- 8lbs. ENGINE SIZE ------------------------ .40 - .46 cu. in----------------------------------- 2-stroke.
------------ .50 - .72 cu. in----------------------------------- 4-stroke. RECOMMENDED R/C --------------------------- 4 CHANNEL MINIMUM WITH 6 SERVOS. FLYING SKILL LEVEL ----------------------------------------ADVANCED / INTERMEDIATE. LENGTH -------------------------------------------127CM -------------------------------------50in.
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INTRODUCTION
Thank you for choosing the DECATHLON ARTF by SEAGULL MODELS. The DECATHLON was designed with the intermediate/advanced sport flyer in mind. It is a semi scale airplane which is easy to fly and quick to assemble. The airframe is conventionally built using balsa, plywood and veneer to make it stronger than the average ARTF , yet the design allows the aeroplane to be kept light. You will find that most of the work has been done for you already. The pushrods are pre-made to the correct lengths, the motor mount has been fitted and the hinges are pre-installed and pinned for security. Flying the DECATHLON is simply a joy.
This instruction manual is designed to help you build a great flying aeroplane. Please read this manual thoroughly before starting assembly of your DECATHLON . Use the parts listing below to identify all parts.
WARNING
Please be aware that this aeroplane is not a toy and if assembled or used incorrectly it is capable of causing injury to people or property. WHEN YOU FLY THIS AEROPLANE YOU ASSUME ALL RISK & RESPONSIBILITY.
If you are inexperienced with basic R/C flight we strongly recommend you contact your R/C supplier and join your local R/C Model Flying Club. R/C Model Flying Clubs offer a variety of training procedures designed to help the new pilot on his way to successful R/C flight. They will also be able to advise on any insurance and safety regulations that may apply.
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
✑ .40-.46 2-stroke engine.
.50-.72 4-stroke engine.
✑ Computer radio with six servos. ✑ Glow plug to suit engine. ✑ Propeller to suit engine. ✑ Protective foam rubber for radio
system.
✑ Silicone fuel line.
TOOLS & SUPPLIES NEEDED
✑ Thick cyanoacrylate glue. ✑ 30 minute epoxy. ✑ 5 minute epoxy. ✑ Hand or electric drill. ✑ Assorted drill bits. ✑ Modelling knife. ✑ Straight edge ruler. ✑ 2mm ball driver. ✑ Phillips head screwdriver. ✑ 220 grit sandpaper. ✑ 90° square or builder’s triangle. ✑ Wire cutters. ✑ Masking tape & T-pins. ✑ Thread-lock. ✑ Paper towels.
PARTS LISTING
FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY
✑ (1) Fuselage.
WING ASSEMBLY
✑ (1) Right wing half with pre-installed
aileron.
✑ (1) Left wing half with pre-installed
aileron.
✑ (1) Plywood wing dihedral brace. ✑ (1) Covering strip for centre section
joint.
Tail section assembly
✑ (1) Vertical stabilizer with pre-
installed rudder.
✑ (1) Horizontal stabilizer with pre-
installed elevator halves.
Some more parts.
HARDWARE PACK
COWLING.
Landing gear.....
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NOTE: To avoid scratching your new aero-
plane we suggest that you cover your workbench with an old towel. Keep a couple of jars or bowls handy to hold the small parts after you open the bags.
Please trial fit all parts. Make sure you have the correct parts and that they fit and are aligned properly before gluing! This will ensure proper as­sembly as the DECATHLON is made from natural materials and minor adjustments may have to be made.
The paint and plastic parts used in this kit are fuel proof. However, they are not tolerant of many harsh chemi­cals including the following: paint thinner, cyano-acrylate glue accel­erator, cyanoacrylate glue de-bonder and acetone. Do not let these chemi­cals come in contact with the colours on the covering and the plastic parts.
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✑ 4)Deflect the aileron and completely
saturate each hinge with thin CA glue. The ailerons front surface should lightly contact the wing during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less will be maintained throughout the lengh of the aileron to the wing panel hinge line.
Note:
The control surfaces, including the ailerons, elevators, and rudder, are prehinged with hinges installed, but the hinges are not glued in place. It is imperative that you properly adhere the hinges in place per the steps that follow using a high-quality thin CA glue.
✑ 1) Carefully remove the aileron from one
of the wing panels. Note the position of the hinges.
✑ 2) Remove each hinge from the wing panel
and aileron and place a T-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into the aileron until the T-pin is snug against the aileron. This will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is on either side of the hinge line when the aileron is mounted to the wing panel.
HINGING THE AILERONS
Note:
The hinge is constructed of a special material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure of the wing panel and aileron.
✑ 3) Slide the aileron on the wing panel until
there is only a slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the wing panel and aileron. Remove the T-pins and snug the aileron against the wing panel. A gap of 1/64” or less should be maintained between the wing panel and aileron.
✑ 5) Turn the wing panel over and deflect the
aileron in the opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin CA glue to each hinge, making sure that the CA penetrates into both the aileron and wing panel.
✑ 6) Using CA remover/debonder and a paper
towel, remove any excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the wing or in the aileron hinge area.
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✑ 8) After both ailerons are securely hinged,
firmly grasp the wing panel and aileron to make sure the hinges are securely glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this by carefully applying medium pressure, trying to separate the aileron from the wing panel. Use caution not to crush the wing structure.
Note:
Work the aileron up and down several times to “work in” the hinges and check for proper movement.
✑ 7) Repeat this process with the other wing
panel, securely hinging the aileron in place.
✑ 1) Carefully remove the elevator from one
of the horizontal stabilizer panels. Note the position of the hinges.
✑ 2) Remove each hinge from the horizontal
stabilizer panel and elevator and place a T-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into the elevator until the T-pin is snug against the elevator. This will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is on either side of the hinge line when the elevator is mounted to the horizontal stabilizer panel.
HINGING THE ELEVATORS
✑ 3) Slide the elevator on the horizontal
stabilizer panel until there is only a slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator. Remove the T­pins and snug the elevator against the horizontal stabilizer panel. A gap of 1/64” or less should be maintained between the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator.
✑ 4)Deflect the elevator and completely
saturate each hinge with thin CA glue. The elevators front surface should lightly contact the horizontal stabilizer during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less will be maintained throughout the lengh of the elevator to the horizontal stabilizer panel hinge line.
Note:
The hinge is constructed of a special material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure of the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator.
✑ 5) Turn the horizontal stabilizer panel over
and deflect the elevator in the opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin CA glue to each hinge, making sure that the CA penetrates into both the elevator and horizontal stabilizer panel.
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✑ 6) Using CA remover/debonder and a paper
towel, remove any excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the horizontal stabilizer or in the elevator hinge area.
✑ 8) After both horizontal stabilizer are
securely hinged, firmly grasp the horizontal stabilizer panel and elevator to make sure the hinges are securely glued and cannot be pulled out. Do this by carefully applying medium pressure, trying to separate the elevator from the horizontal stabilizer panel. Use caution not to crush the horizontal stabilizer structure.
✑ 7) Repeat this process with the other
horizontal stabilizer panel, securely hinging the elevator in place.
HINGING THE RUDDER
✑ 1) Carefully remove the rudder from one of
the vertical stabilizer panel. Note the position of the hinges.
✑ 2) Remove each hinge from the vertical
stabilizer panel and rudder and place a T-pin in the center of each hinge. Slide each hinge into the rudder until the T-pin is snug against the rudder. This will help ensure an equal amount of hinge is on either side of the hinge line when the rudder is mounted to the vertical stabilizer.
✑ 3) Slide the rudder on the vertical stabilizer
panel until there is only a slight gap. The hinge is now centered on the vertical stabilizer panel and rudder. Remove the T-pins and snug the rudder against the vertical stabilizer panel. A gap of 1/64” or less should be maintained between the vertical stabilizer panel and rudder.
✑ 4)Deflect the rudder and completely
saturate each hinge with thin CA glue. The rudder front surface should lightly contact the vertical stabilizer during this procedure. Ideally, when the hinges are glued in place, a 1/64” gap or less will be maintained throughout the lengh of the rudder to the vertical stabilizer panel hinge line.
Note:
The hinge is constructed of a special material that allows the CA to wick or penetrate and distribute throughout the hinge, securely bonding it to the wood structure of the vertical stabilizer panel and rudder.
✑ 5) Turn the vertical stabilizer panel over
and deflect the rudder in the opposite direction from the opposite side. Apply thin CA glue to each hinge, making sure that the CA penetrates into the rudder and vertical stabilizer panel.
✑ 6) Using CA remover/debonder and a paper
towel, remove any excess CA glue that may have accumulated on the vertical stabilizer or in the rudder hinge area.
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WING ASSEMBLY
NOTE: We highly recommend using 30
minute epoxy as it is stronger and provides more working time, allowing the builder to properly align the parts. Using fast cure epoxy when joining the wing halves could result in the glue drying before the wing halves are aligned properly which may result in failure of the wing centre section during flight.
1. Locate the plywood wing dihedral
brace. Using a ruler, locate its centre and draw a vertical line .
✑ 2. Test fit the dihedral brace into each
wing half. The brace should slide in easily up to the centreline that you drew. If not, use 220 grit sandpaper with a sanding block and sand down the edges and ends of the brace until it fits properly.
✑ 4. Insert the dihedral brace into the dihe-
dral box up to the centreline. With paper towels and rubbing alcohol, wipe off any excess epoxy that may have squeezed out of the joint. Next pour some epoxy into the dihedral box in the other wing panel. Apply epoxy to the exposed portion the brace and to the wing root of both wings.
Carefully slide the two wing halves together and firmly press them together, allowing the excess epoxy to run out. There should not be any gap in the wing halves. Use rubbing alcohol and a paper tower to clean up any excess epoxy.
Centre line.
Epoxy.
Wing bottom.
Remove covering.
✑ 3. Remove the brace when satisfied
with its fit in each wing half. Coat both sides of one half of the dihedral brace with 30 minute epoxy. Next, pour some epoxy into the dihedral box in one wing panel. Make sure you cover the top and bottom as well as the sides of the dihedral brace. Use enough epoxy to fill any graps.
Work the rudder up and down several times to “work in” the hinges and check for proper movement.
Note:
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Use a small weight (Weighted fuel pick-up) and thread to feed the servo connector through the wing as shown.
INSTALLING THE AILERON SERVOS.
1) Remove servo tray from the each panel of wing. Install servo and servo arm. See pictures below.
Attach the string to one end of servo lead and carefully thread it though the wing. Once you have thread the lead throught the wing, remove the string and repeat for the other servo lead. Use masking tape to secure the leads to the wing and prevent them from falling back into the wing.
✑ 2) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto the aileron servo. Test fit the servo into the aileron servo mount.
Masking tape.
Small weight.
Thread.
Thread.
Small weight.
Thread.
Servo (2pcs).
2pcs of 12” extension servos.
Because the size of servos differ, you
may need to adjust the size of the precut opening in the mount. The notch in the sides of the mount allow the servo lead to pass through.
Apply masking tape at the wing join to hold the wing halves together securely. Allow the epoxy to cure before installing the aileron servos.
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✑ 3) Install the aileron servo tray into the
servo mount.
Repeat the procedure for the other wing half.
INSTALLING THE AILERON LINKAGE
✑ 1) Using a ruler & pen to draw a straight
line as below picture.
✑ 2) Locate nylon control horns, nylon con-
trol horn backplates and 2 control horns bolts come with 2 nuts.
2MM x 20MM.
Thread.
Servo electric wire.
Plastic tape.
Servo arm.
Servo arm.
Line.
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✑ 3) Position the aileron horn on the bottom
side of aileron. The clevis attachment holes should be positioned over the hinge line as shown below.
✑ 4) Using a 1.5mm drill bit and the control
horns as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the aileron halves.
✑ 6) Thread one clevis control horn onto
each aileron torque rod. Thread the clevis on until they are flush with the ends of the torque rods.
Control Horn.
Mounting Screws.
Mounting Plate.
✑ 5) Mount the control horns by inserting the
bolts through the control horn bases and aileron halves, then into the mounting backplates. Thread 2 nuts onto the bolt.
Do not overtighten the nut may crush the wood.
Clevis.
Aileron Torque rod.
Mark point.
Control horn.
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Attach the silicone fuel, feed and pressure pipe to the tank. The lower pipe is the ‘feed’ and the upper is the ‘pressure’ . The silicone fuel pipe is the next of feed pipe.
Slide the tank into the fuselage from inside so that the neck is at the top of the fuselage and it locates through the engine bulkhead. Gently secure it to the top horizontal former with the cable tie .
INSTALLING THE STOPPER ASSEMBLY
✑ 1) Using a modeling knife, carefully cut
off the rear portion of one of the 3 nylon tubes leaving 1/2” protruding from the rear of the stopper. This will be the fuel pick up tube.
✑ 2) Using a modeling knife, cut one length
of silicon fuel line. Connect one end of the line to the weighted fuel pickup and the other end to the nylon pickup tube.
✑ 3) Carefully bend the second nylon tube
up at a 45º angle. This tube is the vent tube. To set the angle of the vent tube use a lighter or heat gun to heat the tube (do not melt the tube).
PARTS REQUIRED
FUEL TANK
✑ {1} Molded Nylon Fuel Tank ✑ {1} Preassembled Stopper Assembly ✑ {1} Metal Weighted Pick-Up ✑ {1} Silicon tube
✑ 5) With the stopper assembly in place,
the weighted pickup should rest away from the rear of the tank and move freely inside the tank. The top of the vent tube should rest just below the top of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.
✑ 6) When satisfied with the alignment of
the stopper assembly tighten the 3mm x 20mm machine screw until the rubber stopper ex­pands and seals the tank opening. Do not
overtighten the assembly as this could cause the tank to split.
When the stopper assembly is installed in the tank, the top of the vent tube should rest just below the top surface of the tank. It should not touch the top of the tank.
✑ 4) Test fit the stopper assembly into the
tank. It may be necessary to remove some of the flashing around the tank opening using a modeling knife. If flashing is present, make sure none falls into the tank.
You should mark which tube is the vent
and which is the fuel pickup when you attach fuel tubing to the tubes in the stopper. Once the tank is installed inside the fuselage, it may be difficult to determine each of them.
Vent tube.
Fuel Pickup Tube.
Fuel fill Tube.
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MOUNTING THE ENGINE
✑ 1)Trial fit your engine on the motor mount.
The engine should be positioned so there is ample clearance in the cowling for spinner backplate mounted to the prop drive shaft.
✑ 2)Marking 4 points on the plastic motor
mount.
✑ 3)Screw 4 pilot holes with 5 mm diameter.
✑ 4) Your engine on the motor mount by
mounting with 4 bolts, 8 washers, and 4 nuts provided. A drop C/A glue on the bolt threads will help prevent loosening in flight.
✑ 5) Attach the Z-Bend in the pushrod wire to
the throttle arm on the carburetor. You will need to remove the throttle arm from the car­buretor to be able to attach the Z-bend. When complete, reattach the throttle arm to the car­buretor.
WHEEL AND WHEEL PANTS
PARTS REQUIRED
Engine mount.
4MMx30MM.
Blow through one of the lines to ensure
the fuel lines have not become kinked inside the fuel tank compartment. Air should flow through easily.
Pushrod wire.
112MM.
Exhaut hole needed to drill 20 - 30 mm diameter.
Vent tube.
Fuel fill Tube.
Fuel Pickup Tube.
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✑ 1) Assemble and mounting the wheel pants
as shown in the following pictures.
✑ 2) Follow diagram below for wheel pant
installation:
✑ 4) A drop of C/A glue on the wheel collar
screws will help keep them from coming lose during operation. Repeat the process for the other wheel.
Landing gear.
✑ 3) You have to trim each axle using a toll
cutting and cut-off wheel.
Wheel Collar.
Axle.
Wheel.
Nut.
Wheel Pant.
Landing Gear.
Nut.
(2) Washer.
10 mm.
(2) Wheel Collar.
Axle.
Wheel.
Nut.
Nut.
(2) Washer.
53mm
Caution when cutting the axles and wear
protective goggles.
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COWLING
✑ 1) Slide the fiberglass cowl over the en-
gine and line up the back edge of the cowl with the marks you made on the fuselage.
✑ 2) While keeping the back edge of the
cowl flush with the marks, align the front of the cowl with the crankshaft of the engine. The front of the cowl should be positioned so the crankshaft is in nearly the middle of the cowl opening. Hold the cowl firmly in place using pieces of masking tape.
Because of the diameter of the cowl, it
may be necessary to use a needle valve extension for the high speed needle valve. Make this out of sufficient length 1.5mm wire and install it into the end of the needle valve. Secure the wire in place by tightening the set screw in the side of the needle valve.
3mm X 12mm.
✑ 3) Using the hardware provided, mount the
main landing gear to the fuselage.
✑ 1) The blind nuts are already mounted in-
side the fuselage.
✑ 2) The holes in the landing gear should be
to accept the mounting bolts.
INSTALLING THE MAIN LANDING GEAR
1.5mm wire (needle valve)
Needle valve.
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ALIGNING THE HORIZONTAL STABILIZER
✑ 1) Using a ruler and a pen, locate the
centerline of the horizontal stabilizer, at the trailing edge, and place a mark. Use a tri­angle and extend this mark, from back to front, across the top of the stabilizer. Also extend this mark down the back of the trailing edge of the stabilizer.
Center line.
✑ 4) Install the muffler and muffler extension
onto the engine and make the cutout in the cowl for muffler clearance. Connect the fuel and pressure lines to the carburetor, muffler and fuel filler valve.
✑ 3) Slide the cowl back over the engine
and secure it in place using four wood screws.See picture below.
✑ 5) It is recommended to install a Muffler
extension. ( this item is not include ).
INSTALLING THE SPINNER
✑ 1) Install the spinner backplate, propeller
and spinner cone. The spinner cone is held in place using two 3mm x 12mm wood screws.
The propeller should not touch any part
of the spinner cone. If it does, use a sharp modeling knife and carefully trim away the spinner cone where the propeller comes in contact with it.
Exhaut hole needed to drill 20 - 30 mm diameter.
Muffler extension.
✑ 2) Slide the stabilizer into place in the pre-
cut slot in the rear of the fuselage. The stabi­lizer should be pushed firmly against the front of the slot.
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VERTICAL STABILIZER
INSTALLATION
✑ 7) After the epoxy has fully cured, re-
move the masking tape or T-pins used to hold the stabilizer in place. Carefully inspect the glue joints. Use more epoxy to fill in any gaps that may exist that were not filled previously and clean up the excess using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol.
✑ 6) When you are sure that everything is
aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Flash 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the top and bottom of the stabilizer mount­ing area and to the stabilizer mounting plat­form sides in the fuselage. Slide the stabi­lizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measurements once more before the ep­oxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T­pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alco­hol.
✑ 3) With the stabilizer held firmly in place,
use a pen and draw lines onto the stabilizer where it and the fuselage sides meet. Do this on both the right and left sides and top and bottom of the stabilizer.
✑ 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using the lines
you just drew as a guide, carefully remove the covering from between them using a model­ing knife.
Pen.
When cutting through the covering to re-
move it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.
move the covering that overlaps the stabilizer mounting platform sides in the fuselage. Re­move the covering from both the top and the bottom of the platform sides.
✑ 5) Using a modeling knife, carefully re-
✑ 1) Using a modeling knife, remove the
covering from over the precut hinge slot cut into the lower rear portion of the fuselage. This slot accepts the lower rudder hinge.
Hinge.
Remove covering.
Hinge slot.
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✑ 5) Slide the vertical stabilizer back in
place. Using a triangle, check to ensure that the vertical stabilizer is aligned 90º to the hori­zontal stabilizer.
✑ 6) When you are sure that everything is
aligned correctly, mix up a generous amount of Flash 30 Minute Epoxy. Apply a thin layer to the mounting slot in the top of the fuselage and to the sides and bottom of the vertical stabi­lizer mounting area. Apply epoxy to the bot­tom and top edges of the filler block and to the lower hinge also. Set the stabilizer in place and realign. Double check all of your measure­ments once more before the epoxy cures. Hold the stabilizer in place with T-pins or masking tape and remove any excess epoxy using a paper towel and rubbing alcohol. Allow the ep­oxy to fully cure before proceeding.
When cutting through the covering to re-
move it, cut with only enough pressure to only cut through the covering itself. Cutting into the balsa structure may weaken it.
90º
Vertical
Stabilizer.
Horizontal Stabilizer.
✑ 2) Slide the vertical stabilizer into the slot
in the top of the fuselage. The rear edge of the stabilizer should be flush with the rear edge of the fuselage and the lower rudder hinge should engage the precut hinge slot in the lower fuselage. The bottom edge of the stabilizer should also be firmly pushed against the top of the horizontal stabilizer.
✑ 3) While holding the vertical stabilizer
firmly in place, use a pen and draw a line on each side of the vertical stabilizer where it meets the top of the fuselage.
✑ 4) Remove the stabilizer. Using a mod-
eling knife, remove the covering from below the lines you drew. Also remove the covering from the bottom edge of the stabilizer and the bottom and top edges of the filler block. Leave the covering in place on the sides of the filler block.
Remove covering.
Hinge.
C/A glue.
Pen.
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✑ 3) Using a 1.5mm drill bit and the control
horns as a guide, drill the mounting holes through the elevator halves.
ELEVATOR - RUDDER PUSHROD INSTALLATION
CONTROL HORN INSTALLTION
✑ 1) Locate the two nylon control horns, two
nylon control horn backplates and four machine screws.
✑ 2) Position the elevator horn on the both
side of elevator. The clevis attachment holes should be positioned over the hinge line.
2MM x 20MM.
Control Horn.
Mounting Screws.
Mounting Plate.
Elevator control horn.
Rudder control horn.
Elevator pushrod.
Rudder pushrod.
✑ 4) Mount the control horns by inserting the
bolts through the control horn bases and eleva­tor halves, then into the mounting backplates. Do Not overtighten the nuts may crush the wood.
✑ 5) Position the rudder control horn on the
left side of the airplane. Mount the control horn parallel with the horizontal stabilizer, not in­line with the rudder hinge line.
✑ 6) Install the rudder control horn using the
same method as with the elevator control horns.
Elevator control horn right side.
Elevator control horn left side.
Rudder control horn.
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✑ 2) Using a 3/32” drill bit, drill a hole
through the side of the fuselage, opposite the muffler, even with the switch.
✑ 3) Make a push-pull lever out of scrap
wire. Attach the wire to the switch lever and route the wire out the side of the fuselage, through the hole you drilled.
Some switches come with a hole drilled
through the switch tab for this very pur­pose. If your switch does not, remove the switch and drill a 3/32” hole through the middle of the switch tab.
✑
4 ) Install the rubber grommets and brass
collets onto the elevator, rudder and throttle servos. Test fit the servos into the preinstalled servo tray. Because the size of servos dif­fer, you may need to adjust the size of the precut openings in the tray.
✑
5) Position the servos into the servo tray
with the output shafts orientated as shown below. Drill 1/16” pilot holes through the tray for each of the mounting screws.
INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE SERVOS
PARTS REQUIRED
{3} Standard size servos {1} Receiver switch harness
INSTALLING THE SWITCH
✑ 1) Install the switch into the precut hole
in the servo tray, in the fuselage, from the bot­tom. Use the two screws provided with the switch to secure it in place. Drill two 3/32” holes through the tray for the screws to pass through.
3. While holding the clasp firmly in place, use a pen and outline the clasp onto the rud­der.
4. Remove the clasp, and using a mod- eling knife, remove the covering from inside the lines you drew. Use 220 grit sandpaper and carefully roughen the inside surface of the nylon clasp.
5. Slide the clasp back into position and carefully glue it into place using Kwik Bond Thin C/A. Hold the clasp in place until the glue com­pletely cures. Secure by 1 machine screw.
2. Using a ruler and a pen place a mark onto the bottom of the rudder. The back edge of the clasp should line up with this mark.You may find it necessary to bend the tail wheel wire down slightly so it lines up with the clasp without binding.
Control Lap.
Machine Screw
2 MM x 20 MM.
1. Align the tail wheel wire so that the wire is parallel with the bottom of the rudder. The control clasp has a predrilled hole through the top of it. Slide this hole onto the tail wheel wire while sliding the clasp over the bottom of the rudder.
MOUNTING THE CONTROL CLASP
3/ 32” Hole.
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✑ 9) Install servos arm to servos. Notice the
position of the servo arms on the servos. See
picture as below.
✑ 6) Install adjustable servo connector in
the servo arm.
✑ 7) Connect the elevator, rudder and throt-
tle servos to your radio’s receiver and turn on the system. Set the trim tabs on the transmit­ter to neutral and center the servo arms. The elevator, rudder and throttle servo arms should be perpendicular to the servos.
✑ 8) One at a time, hold the pushrods in po-
sition over the respective servos to check for proper servo direction. If any servo turns in the wrong direction, switch your radio’s reversing switches as necessary to achieve the correct
direction.
Adjustable Servo connector.
Servo arm.
C/A glue attached.
✑
1) Plug the five servo leads and the switch
lead into the receiver. Plug the battery pack lead into the switch also.
✑ 2) Wrap the receiver and battery pack in
the protective foam rubber to protect them from vibration.
INSTALLING THE RECEIVER AND BATTERY
✑
3) Position the battery pack in the fuel
tank compartment and the receiver just be­hind the fuel tank . Use extra foam pieces to hold them in position.
Antenna
Rubber
Band
Modified
Servo Arm
Cut
FUSELAGE & WING INSTALLATION
Bolt the wing to fuselage.
When balancing the airplane you may need to move the battery or receiver for-
ward or after to achieve proper balance.
✑
4) Using a 1/16” drill bit, drill a hole through
the side of the fuselage, near the receiver, for the antenna to exit. Route the antenna out of the fuselage and secure it to the vertical stabi­lizer using a rubber band and a modified servo arm. See picture as below.
Throttle.
Elevator.
Rudder.
Elevator.
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DECATHLON INSTRUCTION MANUAL
21
WING STRUT INSTALLATION
Parts requirement. See picture below:
4 pcs.
2 pcs.
Installing alumium plate follow picture below:
Alumium plate.
Alumium plate.
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DECATHLON Instruction Manual
22
✑ 3) When the elevator, rudder and aileron
control surfaces are centered, use a ruler and check the amount of the control throw in each surface. The control throws should be
measured at the widest point of each sur­face!
✑ 4) By moving the position of the adjust-
able control horn out from the control surface, you will decrease the amount of throw of that control surface. Moving the adjustable con­trol horn toward the control surface will in­crease the amount of throw.
✑ 1) It is critical that your airplane be bal-
anced correctly. Improper balance will cause your plane to lose control and crash. The cen­ter of gravity is located 8 - 9cm back from the leading edge of the wing, measured at the wing tip.
✑ 2) If the nose of the plane falls, the plane
is nose heavy. To correct this first move the battery pack further back in the fuselage. If this is not possible or does not correct it, stick small amounts of lead weight on the fuselage sides under the horizontal stabilizer. If the tail of the plane falls, the plane is tail heavy. To correct this, move the battery and receiver for­ward or if this is not possible, stick weight onto the firewall or use a brass heavy hub spinner hub. When balanced correctly, the airplane should sit level or slightly nose down when you lift it up with your fingers.
BALANCING
CONTROL THROWS
✑ 1) We highly recommend setting up the
DECATHLON using the control throws listed at right. We have listed control throws for both initial test/sport flying and aerobatic flying.
INITIAL FLYING/SPORT FLYING
Ailerons low rate - 3/8” up - 3/8” down Ailerons high rate - 7/8” up - 7/8” down
Elevators low rate - 3/16” up -3/16” down Elevators high rate - 3/8” up - 3/8” down
Rudder low rate - 3/4” left and right Rudder high rate - 1 1/4” left and right
Do not use the aerobatic settings for initial test flying or sport flying.
✑ 2) Turn on the radio system, and with the
trim tabs on the transmitter in neutral, center the control surfaces by making adjustments to the clevises or adjustable servo connectors. The servo arms should be centered also.
FLIGHT PREPARATION
✑ A) Check the operation and direction of
the elevator, rudder, ailerons and throttle.
✑
B) Plug in your radio system per the
manufacturer's instructions and turn every­thing on.
✑ C) Check the elevator first. Pull back on
the elevator stick. The elevator halves should move up. If it they do not, flip the servo re­versing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
✑
D) Check the rudder. Looking from be-
hind the airplane, move the rudder stick to the right. The rudder should move to the right. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
8 - 9cm
CG
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DECATHLON INSTRUCTION MANUAL
23
D) Check the throttle. Moving the throttle stick forward should open the carburetor bar­rel. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
E) From behind the airplane, look at the aileron on the right wing half. Move the aileron stick to the right. The right aileron should move up and the other aileron should move down. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
A) The Rudder should move 3/4” left and 3/4” right from center. If it moves too far, turn the adjustable control horn out away from the rudder. Do the opposite if there is not enough throw.
move too much, turn the adjustable control horns out away from the wing. Do the oppo­site if there is not enough throw. It is impor­tant that both ailerons move the same amount, both up and down. D) Once the control throws and move­ments are set, tubing must be added to the clevises to ensure they do not release in the air. Cut a piece of fuel line into five 1/4” long pieces. Unsnap the clevises and slip one piece over each clevis. Snap the clevises back in place and slide the tubing up over them.
PREFLIGHT CHECK
1) Completely charge your transmitter and receiver batteries before your first day of flying.
2) Check every bolt and every glue joint in the DECATHLON to ensure that everything is tight and well bonded.
We wish you many safe and enjoyable flights with your DECATHLON.
8) Properly balance the propeller. An out of balance propeller will cause excessive vi­bration which could lead to engine and/or air­frame failure.
3) Double check the balance of the air­plane. Do this with the fuel tank empty.
4) Check the control surfaces. All should move in the correct direction and not bind in any way.
5) If your radio transmitter is equipped with dual rate switches double check that they are on the low rate setting for your first few flights.
6) Check to ensure the control surfaces are moving the proper amount for both low and high rate settings.
7) Check the receiver antenna. It should be fully extended and not coiled up inside the fuselage.
FLIGHT PREPARATION
1) Check the operation and direction of the elevator, rudder, ailerons and throttle. A) Plug in your radio system per the manufacturer's instructions and turn every­thing on. B) Check the elevator first. Pull back on the elevator stick. The elevator halves should move up. If it they do not, flip the servo re­versing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
C) Check the rudder. Looking from be­hind the airplane, move the rudder stick to the right. The rudder should move to the right. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
✑ E) Check the throttle. Moving the throttle
stick forward should open the carburetor bar­rel. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
✑ F) From behind the airplane, look at the
aileron on the right wing half. Move the aileron stick to the right. The right aileron should move up and the other aileron should move down. If it does not, flip the servo reversing switch on your transmitter to change the direction.
C)The ailerons should move 3/16” up and 3/16” down from center. If the ailerons
B) Both elevator halves should move 5/ 16” up and 5/16” down from center. If they move too far, turn the adjustable control horns out away from the elevator halves. Do the op­posite if there is not enough throw. Both el­evator halves should also travel the same amount throughout their total movement.
2) Check Control Surface Throw.
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