RVS Systems RVS-SC722 User Manual

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BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Cables: The camera harness is 4 feet long and will get you through the bottom of your tailgate and

through the back of the bed. The chassis harness is 25’ long and is designed so that all electrical
connections can be made inside the cab as per the wiring instructions contained in this document. The
camera connector should be tied up in an accessible location by the spare tire area so it can be accessed
for tailgate removal.

If you are using the factory NAV screen as your display: You must have the dealer re-flash your NAV
system for a backup camera. Any GM dealer can do it and it should cost around $100 or less. Just ask
them to apply part #2583-6479 to the navigation unit. In addition, you may need a video interface that
allows you to connect the camera to the factory wiring harness at the back of the radio. We stock the
GMX-550 NAV interface and the VSS pigtail adapter so check out our online catalog if you need an
interface for your navigation. You may also be able to connect directly to the navigation video input but
it would require you to splice your RCA cable to the factory harness– see Appendix A.

If you are using an aftermarket navigation display you should already have the proper video input and
reverse trigger wire required for this installation.

GM TRUCK 07-13 BACKUP CAMERA INSTALLATION

Thank you for your purchase! These instructions are intended for the do-it-yourselfer who decides to install the
camera without professional assistance. Keep in mind you will be installing a device that uses electrical power
from your computer controlled truck. If you are not confident in your ability to attach this device without frying
your electrical system, new camera, or yourself please seek PROFESSIONAL INSTALLATION!

REQUIRED TOOLS

Section 1: Setting up for the installation

-Standard wire stripper/crimper

- 13mm socket wrench

-Black tape or shrink tube

-Razor knife or poking tool

-1/4” and 1” drill bit or step bit (if holes are not pre-drilled at the factory)

-Drill

-RTV or butyl sealant

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Unpack the contents of the package and gather the required tools listed above so you can be sure you

IMAGE 1

have everything you need before you begin. In the package you should have the bezel with camera,
chassis harness, and a ziplock bag containing 2 snap busings, 2 red tap splices, 1 U-terminal, lock plug,
and a handful of zip ties.

1. Remove any plastic interior components to allow access to the necessary wires of your Lockpick

or video interface device. This may include the side panel of the center console if applicable.
You will need to remove your factory navigation unit if you plan to connect this camera directly
to the VSS harness or if you are installing a lockpick as part of this kit.

2. Remove your old tailgate bezel - Use the 13mm socket wrench to remove the bottom bolt of the

tailgate latch. Pull the tailgate handle up out of the way with one hand and firmly grab the
plastic bezel with the other and give it a good tug. Be careful because it has a tendency to bust
a knuckle on the way out.

3. Every truck we’ve ever seen has drain holes in the bottom of the tailgate and most newer trucks

(usually 09‐up) have a hole in the back of the bed as well. If you already have holes in the
tailgate and back of the bed, you do not have to remove the tailgate to run the camera cable,
and can skip to Section 3. If you do not have the existing hole in the bed, remove the tailgate
from the truck as per the factory manual. We will be drilling a hole in the bottom of the tailgate
(OPTIONAL IF YOU USE THE DRAIN HOLE METHOD) and the rear of the bed for wire passage.

Section 2: Drill the access holes (if not already there)

1. Using a ¼” drill bit, drill a hole in the center of the
pickup box end as shown in IMAGE 1. It is important to

center it so that the hole can be expanded to 1”
without going through the floor of the bed, but also
high enough so you can’t see the wires when the
tailgate is closed. Once you get the ¼” hole drilled, you

can use your 1” bit to make it large enough to install
one of the included plastic snap bushing.

2. Making sure that the holes will line up, do the same to the bottom of your tailgate.

3. Install the plastic snap bushings. These bushings provide an inside diameter large enough for

the loomed camera harness to slide through easily. Tip: install a slight amount of RTV to the
exposed metal on both holes before installing the grommets to avoid rusting and help secure
the grommets.

Section 3: Connect the power to the camera

1. Using a “fish” tool, drop the camera cable out the center tailgate drain hole (or freshly drilled

hole) and through the existing (or freshly drilled hole) in the bed. The split loom will protect the
camera cable from sharp metal or other obstructions. You should leave enough slack so the
cable can pull itself through the snap bushings easily when opening and closing the tailgate.
Secure the connector in an easily accessible location so you can access it if you want to remove
the tailgate.

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2. Connect the chassis harness to the camera harness plug. BE CAREFUL AS IT IS KEYED AND CAN

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ONLY GO TOGETHER ONE WAY! DO NOT FORCE IT TOGETHER!

3. Run the chassis harness to the drivers floorboard area securing it with the included zip ties along

the frame rail and away from any moving parts. Be careful that the cable didn’t come
disconnected from the camera while you were pulling it through the chassis.

4. Almost every truck has a large grommet through the driver’s floor near the front left corner of

the driver’s seat for the parking brake cable. We recommend using this grommet to route your
camera cables through. If for some reason you don’t have this cable, you will have to find
another suitable location. Be careful not to damage any other vehicle wires if you are going
through an existing wiring harness!

5. For those who have the cable access

mentioned above, remove the driver’s side sill
plate and peel the carpet back far enough to
see the top of the grommet (see IMAGE 2).
Being careful not to slice the cable, use your
razor knife or poking tool to make a new hole
somewhere in the grommet and expand it
large enough for the head of your RCA cable
to penetrate. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE
THE HEAD OF YOUR RCA CABLE WHEN
PUSHING IT THROUGH THE GROMMET. In
image 2 you can see that the camera wires are now sharing the grommet with an existing cable.
This grommet will have to be resealed using your RTV or butyl tape but wait until the cables are
in place (next step) to ensure you have the proper amount of slack at both ends.

6. Push the cable(s) through the grommet location in the floor mentioned in the previous step, and

route the RCA cable under the carpet toward the video interface unit or navigation receiver.
Route the power/ground wires to the Left I/P Junction Block (it’s under the large square black
plastic cover to the left of the foot brake).

7. As a final check make sure that the cable is now secure from all moving parts under the vehicle,

through the holes created in the box and tailgate. Coil up any excess cable behind the dash or
console and secure it with a zip tie. Once secure, use the RTV or butyl tape to seal the grommet
that you poked a hole in previously or you will end up with we carpet! Try to seal it from the top
and bottom just to be sure. Now you can put your carpet and sill plates back together.

Section 4: Connect your navigation or other monitor to the camera

1. If you are using an aftermarket receiver or mirror monitor, plug the RCA video cable into the

input on your receiver or mirror harness. Secure the excess cable so it will not interfere with
anything under the dash.

2. (Lockpick users skip to step 5) Connect the red power wire to the reverse power source in the

Left I/P Junction Block (diagram in appendix) port X10, pin 8 – should be a dark blue wire. This
will provide power to the camera only when in reverse.

3. Connect the black ground wire to Port X14, pin 1 or any clean metal surface.