Rigging Manual V1
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
Contents
1. Introduction
2. Preparation
2.1 - Hardware pack contents
2.2 - Rope pack contents
2.3 - Spinnaker pack contents
2.4 - Adding the toestraps
2.5 - Venture S centreboard
2.6 - Venture SE weighted centreboard
2.7 - Shroud verniers
2.8 - Forestay retainer
2.9 - Mainsheet bridle
2.10 - Righting lines
3. Rigging the mast
3.1 - Fitting the spreaders to the mast
3.2 - Spreader ends
3.3 - Stepping the mast
4. Boom
4.1 - Rigging the gnav
5. Sails
5.1 - Rigging the mainsheet
5.2 - Hoisting the jib
5.3 - Furling the jib
5.4 - Hoisting the mainsail
5.5 - Rigging the outhaul
5.6 - Rigging the downhaul
8. Reeng
8.1 - Rigging the reeng line
8.2 - Reeng the mainsail
9. Completion
10. Sailing hints
10.1 - Introduction
10.2 - Launching
10.3 - Leaving the beach
10.4 - Sailing Close-hauled and tacking
10.5 - Sailing downwind and gybing
10.6 - Using the gennaker
11. Maintenance
11.1 - Boat care
11.2 - Foil care
11.3 - Spar care
11.4 - Sail care
11.5 - Fixtures and ttings
12. Warranty
13. Knots
14. Glossary
6. Gennaker
6.1 - Gennaker halyard elastic takeaway
6.2 - Tack line
6.3 - Rigging the gennaker halyard / downhaul
6.4 - Rigging the gennaker
6.5 - Rigging the gennaker sheet
7. Rudder
7.1 - Fitting the rudder
7.2 - Using the rudder
1 - Introduction
1. Introduction
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS Venture, and thank you for choosing
an RS product. We are condent that you will have many hours of great sailing and
racing in this truly excellent design. The RS Venture is an exciting boat to sail and offers
fantastic performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum
enjoyment from your RS Venture, in a safe manner. It contains details of the craft, the
equipment supplied or tted, its systems, and information on its safe operation and
maintenance. Please read this manual carefully and be sure that you understand its
contents before using your RS Venture.
This manual will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your rst
boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your own
safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before assuming
command of the craft. If you are unsure, RS, your RS Dealer, or your national sailing
federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be able to advise you of a
local sailing school, or a competent instructor.
Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if
you sell the boat.
For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:
RS Sailing
Premier Way
Abbey Park
Romsey
Hampshire SO51 9DQ
Tel: +44 (0)1794 526760
Email: info@RSsailing.com
For details of your local RS Dealer, please visit www.RSsailing.com
2 - Preparation
2. Preparation
Your RS Venture comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat
sailing. In order to commission it, you will need the following tools:
• Pliers or a shackle key
• Small, at-bladed screw driver
• PVC electrician’s tape
• Small Phillips screwdriver
• Blade
• Lighter to seal ropes
Whilst your RS Venture has been carefully prepared, it is important that new
owners should check that shackles and knots are tight. This is especially
important when the boat is new, as travelling can loosen seemingly tight ttings
and knots. It is also important to check such items prior to sailing regularly.
2.1 - Hardware pack
Owner’s manual
Rudder blade 1
Rudder stock 1
Tiller extension 1
Boom 1
Mainsail 1
Jib 1
1
Toestraps
Mast and rigging 1
Shroud covers 2
4
2.1 - Hardware pack
Shroud verniers 2
Forestay retainer hook 1
2.2 - Rope pack
Plastic ring (Gennaker
halyard take-away)
Mainsheet
Jib Sheet
Toestrap ties
Toestrap elastics long
Toestrap elastics short
Mainsheet bridle
Mainsheet bridle elastic
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
2.3 - Spinnaker pack
Righting lines
Righting line elastic 2
Forestay leash
Rudder downhaul #1
Rudder downhaul #2
Spinnaker takeaway
elastic
Spinnaker sheets
Ratchet blocks
2
1
1
1
1
1
2
Spinnaker
1
a)
2.4 - Adding the toestraps
To complete this section you will need:
Toestraps x 4
Toestrap ties x 8
Toestrap elastic (long) x 2
Toestrap elastic (short) x 2
Pass the toestrap tie through the webbing
loop in the front end of the toestrap.
b)
c)
Pass the two ends of the toestrap tie under the front
toestrap plate (through the two gaps at the inboard
end of the plate) and tie knot #3 in the tails.
Attach the aft end of the front toestraps in a similar
way, passing the ties through the two inboard holes
of the middle toestrap plate.
2.4 - Adding the toestraps
d)
Attach the front end of the aft toestraps. They share the
middle toestrap plate with the front toestrap. Pass the tie
through the middle two holes.
Attach the aft end of the aft toestraps in a similar
e)
way, passing the ties through the middle holes of the
aft toestrap plate.
f)
Use the long elastic to attach the front
toestraps to the eyelets on the cockpit wall.
Join the ends with knot #5 and rotate the
elastic so the knot is hidden inside the
toestrap.
g)
Use the short elastic to tie the
two middle straps together.
Rotate the elastic to hide the knot in the webbing loop.
a)
2.5 - Venture S Centreboard
On a Venture S the centreboard should already be attached to your
boat. For Venture SE move on to section 2.6.
There is a plastic hook attached to the elastic on the
centreboard case. When the centreboard is down,
attach this hook to the rope loop on the end of the
centreboard.
2.6 - Venture SE Weighted Centreboard
On a Venture SE the weighted centreboard should already be
attached to your boat. Please check it is rigged according to the
images below:
Uphaul purchase (grey
rope) shackled to
centreboard eye.
B
D
F
A
C
E
B
D
F
A
C
E
Centreboard restraint
(blue rope) tied to
centreboard eye with
knot #1.
Uphaul purchase (grey
rope) shackled to mast
step.
The elastic take up must have sufcient tension to cleat
the restraint rope when the centerboard is lowered.
Elastic tension can be adjusted at the block.
Centreboard restraint
running through cleat.
Store centreboard
uphaul in pouch.
Centreboard uphaul
running through cleat.
2.6 - Venture SE Weighted Centreboard
Weighted centreboard system
To lower the centreboard:
a)
Slowly release the centreboard uphaul (grey rope)
Pull in the restraint line (blue rope) to take up
b)
the slack.
The restraint line must be cleated at
all times. Failure to do so may result
is serious injury when capsized.
To raise the centreboard:
Uncleat the restraint line (blue rope).
a)
Pull in the uphaul (grey rope) then cleat off.
b)
a)
2.7 - Shroud Verniers
Locate the shroud verniers in the hardware pack and
attach them to the shroud eye bolts.
FORWARD
Make sure they are orientated as shown.
FORWARD
2.8 - Forestay Retainer
a)
Locate the forestay retainer elastic and hook.
Tie one end of the elastic to the hook with knot #1.
b)
Tie the other end of the elastic onto the bolt at the
aft end of the mast step with knot #1.
2.9 - Mainsheet Bridle
a)
b)
Locate the 40mm single block, mainsheet bridle and 2 x mainsheet bridle elastics.
Take the middle of the mainsheet
bridle and form a loop. Pass this
loop through the 40mm block and
pass the tails back through the loop
to form knot #6.
Pass the end of the bridle through the forward hole in
the gunwhale and tie knot #3 underneath.
Repeat on the other side of the boat.
c)
Tie each elastic to the 40mm block with knot #1 as shown.
d)
Pass the elastic through the rearmost hole in the
gunwhale and tie knot #3 underneath.
Repeat on the other side of the boat.
2.10 - Righting Lines
a)
b)
Locate the righting lines and righting line elastics in the rope pack.
Tie knot #4 in one end of the elastic.
There are two holes in the transom ange just below where
the mainsheet bridle elastic passes through the gunwhale.
Pass the righting line elastic through the lower of these
holes in an inboard direction, then back out through the
upper hole.
c)
Tie knot #3 in one end of the righting line.
d)
Pass the other end of the righting line aft through the P-clip which is
located beneath the gunwhale near the shroud U-bolt.
e)
Pass the end of the righting line aft through the next P-clip (which is
located beneath the gunwhale, about 1.25 metres aft from the shroud
U-bolt).
2.10 - Righting Lines
f)
g)
Righting line system
Join the end of the righting line and the end of the elastic with knot #5.
Repeat steps a - f on the other side of the boat.
Righting line passes
through P-clip
Righting line passes
through P-clip
Elastic passes through
two holes in transom
ange and ties off with
knot #4.
Knot #3 in end of
righting line.
Righting line joins
elastic with knot #5.
Rigging Guide
3. Rigging the Mast
To complete this section you will need:
• The mast
• A at-bladed screw driver
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
3.1 - Fitting The Spreaders To The mast
It is worth taking time to ensure that this section is completed correctly. Improperly tted
spreaders will result in undesirable sailing characteristics, and may even result in failure
of the mast.
a) Carefully unpack the spreaders from the top of the mast, being sure not to damage
any of the securing split rings.
b) Unwind the shrouds and forestay from around the mast, and unwrap from the
packaging.
1
2
7
3
6
45
D
E
A
B
Fwd
C
Aft
Primary hole
The Primary pin ts through the bracket’s PRIMARY HOLE and through the
FORWARD HOLE in the spreader.
The Adjuster pin ts down through HOLE 6 in the bracket and HOLE D in the spreader.
3.2 - Spreader Ends
Spreader end caps:
The spreader end cap incorporates two shroud wire slots to give a tight grip on either 2.5
or 3mm wire. The sizes are identied on the front face of the end cap.The RS Venture
uses 3mm shroud wire so the 3mm slot should be used.
The end cap can also be rotated so that the shroud can be positioned at either the
forward or aft position of the spreader end (see diagram above). For the RS Venture the
end cap should hold the shroud in the forward position.
To attach the shroud, slacken the end screw, rotate the end clamp if necessary, then
insert the shroud. Ensure that the shroud is tensioned between T-Terminal and spreader
tip, then tighten the screw rmly. This method “locks in” the dihedral angle.
Length Adjustment:
The position is described by the number of adjustment holes visible. For the RS Venture
there should be 1 hole visible as shown in the diagram below.
Forward
one hole visible
shroud wire goes through forward hole
Rotate as
Aft
necessary
3mm hole fwd
2.5 3.0
All clevis pins must be tted with the at head on top, and locked with a split
ring.
Tape all split rings, pins and the outboard end of the spreader extrusion.
This will reduce chafe on the mainsail and prevent ailing sails/halyards becoming
damaged. Self-amalgamating tape is best, but pvc electrical tape is an adequate
alternative.
3.3 - Stepping the Mast
Now the mast is ready to be put up in the boat, or “stepped”.
BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE
NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES
REMEMBER
Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and gennaker halyard are
tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when the
mast is stepped.
Before stepping the mast, familiarise yourself with how the “foot” (bottom end) of the
mast will t into the “step” (tted to the boat).
The mast foot has two rectangular blocks on the bottom, separated by a groove. Both
of these blocks will t between the bolt at the front of the mast step, and the bolt at the
back.
Ensure that the shrouds and forestay are tted correctly and loose at the lower end.
Ensure all 3 halliards are tied to the pole ring on the front of the mast.
Note: It is recommended that the mast should always be stepped with 2 people.
If the wind is blowing, there will be a lot of pressure at the top of the mast making it
wave around. Consider nding a second helper if you feel you will struggle!
3.3 - Stepping the Mast
a)
Raise the mast so that it is standing on the ground next to the boat, adjacent to the mast
gate. This is most easily done if your helper places a foot against and over the base of the
mast, whilst you lift the mast from about mid section until it is upright. Your helper can now
easily support the mast so long as it is kept upright.
b)
You now climb into the boat and stand squarely either side of the middle of the boat, close
to the mast gate. The mast should be lifted, keeping bolt upright of course, so it is close to
the gunwhale for you to lift in.
c)
You can now lift the mast up over the gunwhale
of the Venture, keeping it upright of course, and
rest it down in the bottom of the boat, just aft of
the mast step.
d)
Now lift the mast gently forward to securely locate into the mast step, easing it into the
mast gate as it goes. Now you are able to close the mast gate and attach the forestay to
the foredeck u-bolt with the snap-shackle provided.
3.3 - Stepping the Mast
e)
Slip the neoprene vernier covers
onto the shrouds, with the pointed
end at the top.
f)
Attach the shrouds to the middle of the shroud
vernier with the clevis pin and split ring provided.
The fourth hole down on the vernier is a good
place to start.
Wrap PVC electrician’s tape
around the split rings for
security and to avoid snagging.
b)
Slide the neoprene boot down over the vernier.
Rigging Guide
4. Boom
To complete this section, you will need:
• The boom
• The gnav bar
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
a)
b)
4.1 - Rigging the Gnav
Connect the gnav bar to the slider at the
front end of the boom. Sliders often differ in
appearance, but all work in the same way.
Connect the front of the boom to the gooseneck on the mast.
c)
Connect the upper end of the gnav bar to the bracket on the mast above
the gooseneck.
It is vital that the gnav toggle is inserted as shown above. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the strut assembly.
d)
e)
4.1 - Rigging the Gnav
Feed the gnav control line down through
the gooseneck block.
Make sure purchase is extended fully when sail is up.
Feed the gnav control line through the cleat below the boom. Tie knot #3 in
the end of the rope
TOP TIP
You can keep the boom up by
hoisting with the mainsheet at
the rear of the boom.
Rigging Guide
5. Sails
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
a)
b)
5.1 - Rigging the Mainsheet
Take one end of the mainsheet and tie a stopper knot in the end.
Pass the other end through the centre hole of the block at the
end of the boom.
Pass the end of the mainsheet down and through the block
on the mainsheet bridle.
c)
d)
Pass the end of the mainsheet back up and through the block
on the end of the boom.
Pass the end of the mainsheet forwards through the two
webbing loops on the underside of the boom.
5.1 - Rigging the Mainsheet
e)
Pass the end of the mainsheet
through the block on the underside of
the boom.
f)
Pass the end of the mainsheet through the mainsheet block and jammer base, then
tie knot #3 in the end.
NOTE: The fairleads below the hatch
clips are to prevent the mainsheet
from catching on the clips.
5.2 - Hoisting the Jib
To complete this section, you will require:
• The jib
• The jib sheets
• The top furling unit as attached to the jib halliard
a)
Make sure the furling line is uncleated and that the furling unit is fully charged – i.e. all
the furling line is wound round the unit and very little left at the cleat.
b)
Unroll the jib and connect the tack of the sail direct to
the lower furling unit via the pin and split ring.
c)
Attach the head of the jib to
the top furling unit.
Use tape to cover all clevis rings
5.2 - Hoisting the Jib
d)
Pull the rope end of the halyard from the mast exit, just below deck level to hoist the
jib. When the jib halyard is pulled all the way up, a wire loop will emerge from the
mast.
e)
Hook the rig tension tackle to this wire loop, then pull the rig tension on, ensuring that it is
in the cleat properly. You should pull enough tension into the rig so that the shrouds feel
rm.
Stow the ends of the rig tension tackle and the rope halyard in the pouch on the side of
f)
the spinnaker chute.
g)
Find the middle of the jib sheet, fold it back on itself, such that the two ends are together.
Grab the folded mid point and pass it through the cringle in the jib clew, and then pass the
two loose ends through that loop and pull tight. The result should look as below.
5.2 - Hoisting the Jib
h)
Lead one end of the jib sheet along the side of the boat and then down to the jib fairlead
and cleat. Thread it through the fairlead and through the jib cleat. Repeat with the other
end of the jib sheet, making sure they pass either side of the mast. You can either tie
knot #3 in each sheet, or tie the two ends together. Preferably tie together.
Jib sheet arrangement
i)
Furling and unfurling the jib is best done from the front of the cockpit, or standing on
the starboard side of the boat adjacent to the shroud - in both cases with good access
to the furling cleat. To furl the jib, hold a little tension on the jib sheet and then rmly
pull the furling line from the cleat. To unfurl, it is the reverse – pull the sheet and ease
the furling line through the cleat. In both cases ensure the spinnaker halliard is pulled
in close to the mast to ensure it does not get caught in top of the jib.
NB. Furling the jib – take care the spinnaker halliard does not get caught at the top
of the jib furler – pull it in towards the mast to keep it clear of the top of the jib.
5.3 - Furling the Jib
NB. Once the jib is hoisted, whether furled or not, and the jib
halliard tensioned, the forestay is redundant and should be
stowed out of the way against the mast, with the shockcord
and clip provided.
The forestay must be reattached before the jib is lowered. Failure to do so
may result in the mast falling down.
5.4 - Hoisting the Mainsail
To hoist the mainsail:
a) Unroll the mainsail.
b) Take the end of the main halyard that emerges from the top of the mast, and tie it to the head
of the mainsail, using a knot #1.
c)
Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the mast
track, just above the gooseneck mast collar.
d)e)Holding the main sail in line with the mast, pull on the
end of the main halyard that emerges from the bottom of
the mast.
Pull the main sail up to the top of the mast. You will need
to keep the sail in line with the mast to make pulling it up
easier, especially when passing the batten pockets.
If you are hoisting full sail ensure that the luff reeng
slug, used for and adjacent to the reef point, stays
OUT of the mast track.
Tidy the main halyard and stow it in the halyard bag
next to the mast, or if you have a spinnaker chute, in the
Velcro pocket under the chute sock at the aft end.
a)
b)
5.5 - Rigging the Outhaul
When the main sail is almost at the top of the
mast, slide the mainsail clew slug into the track on
the top of the boom.
Pass the end of the outhaul rope through the clew of the main sail and clip it on the
end of the boom Ensure that the main halyard rope is in the cleat and pull the main
sail to the top. Pull on the main sail at the bottom corner near the mast to check that
it is properly cleated.
The knot at the end of the
outhaul hooks into the cleat
on the boom end.
5.5 - Rigging the Outhaul
c)
Slide the mainsail tack slug into the
mast track.
5.6 - Rigging the Downhaul
a)
The downhaul is already tied to the gooseneck. Pass
the end of the downhaul through the eyelet in the tack
of the main sail.
b)
Pass the end of the
downhaul through the
cleat on the side of the
mast.
Rigging Guide
6. Gennaker
To complete this section, you will need:
• 1 x RS Venture gennaker
• 1 x gennaker sheet
• 2 x ratchet blocks
• 1 x spinnaker takeup elastic
• 1 x spinnaker takeup plastic ring
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
6.1 - Gennaker Halyard Elastic Takeaway
a)
Locate the spinnaker halyard elastic and plastic ring in the packs.
Tie one end of the elastic to the plastic ring with knot #1.
a)
Tie the other end of the elastic to the middle toestrap retainer on the
port side of the boat using knot #2.
6.2 - Tack Line
a)
There should be a rope emerging from the inboard end of the bowsprit. This is the
tack line.
Tie this rope to the bolt at the forward end of the mast step with knot #2.
6.3 - Rigging the Gennaker Halyard / Downhaul
a)
You should currently have both ends of the gennaker
halyard/downhaul tied somewhere at the base of the mast.
Untie the end which emerges from the front of the mast
near the mast foot.
Pass the end of the gennaker halyard through the oating block on the end of the
b)
launch line.
The launch is already attached to the boat - It exits the side of the bowsprit (near
the inboard end, goes forward to a block at the bow (under the foredeck) and
terminates at a ‘oating’ block.
c)
Pass the tail of the gennaker halyard aft from the oating block and through the
fairlead on the starboard side of the mast (near the mast foot).
6.3 - Rigging the Gennaker Halyard / Downhaul
d)
e)
f)
Pass the end of the gennaker halyard
through the fairlead near the mast foot.
Pass the end of the gennaker halyard
through the gennaker halyard cleat (just
in front of the centreboard case).
Pass the tail of the gennaker halyard through the gennaker
halyard block, through the ring on the elastic takeaway
(added in step 6.1) and forward through the gennaker
downhaul block.
g)
Pass the end of the rope (which is now the gennaker downhaul line) up through the
gennaker chute.
You may nd it helps to tape the end onto a batten and ‘post’ it up through the chute.
The end of the gennaker downhaul can now tie onto the bar at the mouth of the chute
until you are ready to rig the gennaker.
6.4 - Rigging the Gennaker
HINT
Always remember to tie a piece of rope to the bowsprit outhaul block when fully
de-rigging your RS Venture – it saves crawling up under the foredeck!
a) Unpack the gennaker.
b) Tie the tack of the gennaker to the tack line that emerges from the end of the bowsprit.
The knot that is already in the tack line needs to be left in place as it determines how far
the bowsprit comes out.
c) Tie the end of the gennaker halyard to the head of the gennaker.
d) Take the gennaker downhaul line (the other end of the halyard), which you previously
led up the chute sock, and, with the gennaker correctly orientated on the starboard
(right) side of the boat (luff forward and leech aft) pass the end through the eye on
the sail from the bottom of the sail towards the top of sail.
e) Continue to run the downhaul line up the sail and tie it off on the upper patch (onto the
cross of webbing)
Note: On sails made before August 2016, the gennaker downhaul
line must pass through two patches on the sail before tying off on
the third patch.
FORWARD
6.5 - Rigging the Gennaker Sheet
a) Find the middle of the gennaker sheet and double it over to form a loop.
b) Pass this loop through the eyelet at the clew of the gennaker.
c) Pass the rest of the sheet through the loop and pull it tight. This is the same
arrangement as the jibsheet, so you will have done it before.
d)
With the gennaker on the starboard side, thread one end of the gennaker sheet
through the block by the starboard shroud adjustor plate, in the direction of the
arrow on the block.
NOTE
There are 2 or 3 types of gennaker ratchet block in common use, but they all have a
“correct” way to feed the sheet marked with an arrow.
6.5 - Rigging the Gennaker Sheet
e) Lead the other gennaker sheet around the jib luff and through the block on the
port side. Tie the two ends of the gennaker sheet together.
f)
Pull the gennaker from one side to the other, as if you were gybing, to see if
anything is twisted, and then using the gennaker downhaul, pull the gennaker down
into the chute and sock.
Rigging Guide
7. Rudder
To complete this section, you will require:
• Rudder blade
• Rudder stock
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
7.1 - Fitting the Rudder
a)
Remove the pivot bolt from the
rudder stock.
b)
Insert the rudder into the stock. Make sure it
passes between the two plastic cheeks. The
uphaul and downhaul lines exit through the
hole below the tiller.
c)
Rig the uphaul line (red rope) through the clam cleat
on the starboard side of the tiller.
7.1 - Fitting the Rudder
d)
Tie the rudder downhaul block onto the end of the
rudder downhaul with knot #1.
e)
Tie one end of the rudder downhaul line onto the p clip on the quick release cleat (on the
port side of the tiller).
pass the other end through the block which you added in step d and back through the
quick release cleat.
f)
Fit the rudder to the boat.
Tie a knot #3 in the tail.
Push retaining clip
to release rudder.
Failure to correctly locate the rudderstock under the rudder retainer
may allow the rudder to become detached from the boat whilst in use.
7.2 - Using the Rudder
To lower rudder:
a)
Uncleat rudder uphaul (red rope) and fully pull slack through the cleat towards the
transom. Failure to do so will allow the rope to recleat and arrest the blades rotation
before it reaches the fully down position. This will result in signicant weather helm
(heavy rudder feel).
Pull on rudder downhaul (blue rope).
b)
Note: The rudder
downhaul cleat will release
automatically if you run
aground to prevent damage.
To raise rudder:
Uncleat rudder downhaul (blue rope).
a)
Pull on rudder uphaul (red rope).
b)
Rigging Guide
8. Reeng
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
8.1 - Rigging the Reeng Line
Reeng enables the less-experienced or younger sailor to continue sailing in stronger winds.
Your RS Venture is tted with a single-line reeng system. The reeng line is black and is
installed in the boom ready to rig through the sail. You will see it either end of the boom, next
to the outhaul line, which is usually blue. At the front end of the boom the reeng and outhaul
lines share the same block, as they do not need to be pulled on at the same time.
Please follow the instructions for reeng, ensuring that the reeng line is threaded the correct
way through the mainsail. One person may reef the mainsail while sailing on a gentle close
reach, sails eased, on a starboard tack.
Make sure you are in plenty of clear water while reeng.
a)
Ease the reeng line right out from the outboard (clew) end of the boom. Lead the clew
reeng line up the starboard side of the mainsail leech, pass it through the top reeng eye.
Lace the reeng line through the remaining reeng eyes – (through one, out of one) and tie
it to the boom. You can use a knot slid into the boom track – which is neater, but make sure
the knot is large enough to remain secure.
b)
Lead the tack line up the port side of the mainsail,
through the reeng eye, and back down the starboard
side of the mainsail. Tie knot #3 in the end and hook
the tack line in the recess on the port side of the
gooseneck.
8.2 - Reeng the Mainsail
a)
With the mainsheet uncleated, fully
ease the kicker whilst steadily pulling
the reeng line from the front end of the
boom. This, as you can see from the
picture will start to concertina the sail at
the aft end rst.
b)
c)
8.2 - Reeng the Mainsail
When the clew has fully tightened, ease the main
halyard whilst continuing to pull the reeng line.
The luff will fold down.
Make sure the reeng clew slug is inserted into
the
track on the mast.
d)
Re-cleat the main halyard, when the reeng position is
lowered down to the boom. Tie a sail tie through the cringle
in the middle of the sail and around the boom with a reef
knot. Now fully tension the halyard again to get sufcient
tension in the luff of the mainsail.
e)
Finally re-tension the kicker for some control of the leech.
HINT
The jib is a very effective strong wind sail area because it is low down and maintains a
balanced helm. So slab reef before you lose the jib – it’s more fun for the crew!
Rigging Guide
9. Completion
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
9 - Completion
Now you are almost ready to go RS Venture sailing.
If you have not already done so:
• Complete / understand all previous sections 1 – 8
• Read the Owners Manual to:
■ Sign the Declaration of Conformity
■ Understand towing points / technique
■ Understand capsize recovery technique
■ Identify outboard motor specications
• If using an Outboard Motor Follow the manufactures operating instructions
• Check you have suitable insurance for your needs and requirements.
• Discard the waste packaging in a responsible manner.
• Assess the environmental conditions and agree with your crew they are suitable for your
combined experience.
Now you are ready to launch and sail your RS Venture!
Rigging Guide
10. Sailing Hints
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
10.1 -Introduction
The RS Venture is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling, you should
be comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small boats. If you lack condence or
feel that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which can be
recommended. See www.rya.org.uk for more information.
While we offer you a few hints to aid your enjoyment of your new boat, they should not be
considered as a substitute for an approved course in dinghy sailing. In order to build your
condence and familiarise yourself with your new boat, we recommend that you choose a
fairly quiet day with a steady wind for your rst outing.
10.2 - Launching
With the sails fully hoisted, and the rudder attached, the boat should be wheeled into the
water, keeping it head to wind as far as possible. If you have a crew, s/he can hold the boat
head to wind whilst the trolley is stowed ashore.
TOP TIP
If the tide is coming in as you launch, make sure that you leave the trolley far enough up
the beach that it will not be swept away.
10.3 - Leaving the Beach
The easiest way to get going is for the helm to hop aboard while the crew holds the boat.
The helm should put a little centreboard down, then move back to his normal position, ease
the rudder uphaul, and pull gently on the rudder downhaul to lower some of the rudder
blade. Then, s/he may instruct the crew to push the bow off the wind and climb in. The crew
will then lower the centreboard as depth allows. As soon as the water is deep enough, the
centreboard should be fully lowered, and the retaining elastic clipped to the rope handle to
prevent it retracting into the hull in the event of a full inversion.
TOP TIP
If you are using the jib, pulling this sail in as you leave the beach will ensure that the bow
continues to swing away from the direction that the wind is blowing from.
As soon the water is deep enough, make sure that you lower the rudder blade fully by
pulling hard on the rudder downhaul. You will know it is fully down if you feel a gentle “thud”
as the front face of the blade hits the front face of the stock. Cleat the downhaul and tidy it
by winding it around the tiller. Pull the sail in and you are away! For the best performance,
you should ensure that you and your crew position yourselves so that the boat is sailing
through the water as upright as possible.
TOP TIP
As a general rule, sit further forward in lighter winds and further aft in stronger breezes.
10.4 Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking
When sailing close-hauled, or as close as possible to the wind, it is important to get the
boom as near as possible to the centreline, especially when sailing the with the mainsail
and jib. The kicking strap should be rmly tensioned for upwind work. To pull it on, quickly
put the boat head to wind. You should hold the tiller extension across your body, with
a knuckles-up grip, enabling you to use one or two ngers as a temporary cleat when
adjusting the mainsheet. The jib sheet should be pulled in fairly hard when sailing upwind
– tighter in stronger winds and less so in lighter winds. Sail to the jib tell-tails, keeping the
one on the back of the sail streaming and the one closest to you either streaming or lifting
upwards slightly.
To tack, push the tiller extension away from you and, as the boat starts to turn, step across
the cockpit facing forwards. Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the tiller back into
the centre before sitting down on the new side, with the tiller extension behind your back.
When you are settled, swap the mainsheet and the tiller extension into the new hands.
If the boat slows right down and feels lifeless when close-hauled, you could be sailing too
close to the wind. Ease the mainsheet and ‘bear off’ away from the wind for a while to get
the boat going again.
10.5 Sailing Downwind and Gybing
When sailing downwind, both sails should be let out as far as possible. To gybe, pull the
tiller towards you and, as the boat starts to turn, step across the cockpit facing forward.
Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the tiller back into the centre before sitting
down on the new side, with the tiller extension behind your back. Often, the boom will not
want to come across until you have nearly completed the gybe, so it often pays to give the
mainsheet a tweak to encourage the boom over at the moment that you want it to come!
Don’t forget to duck your head as the boom comes over. Once you are settled, swap the
mainsheet and the tiller extension into the new hands.
10.6 Using the Gennaker
If you are inexperienced in using a gennaker, choose a fairly
quiet day for you rst excursion. A gennaker nearly doubles
your sail area, and should be treated with a healthy degree of
respect!
For your rst hoist you should be sailing
downwind on a broad reach, with the wind
coming over the helm’s left shoulder. The
crew should sit in the centre of the boat,
astride the centreboard case, and hoist
the gennaker by pulling the gennaker
halyard from the starboard halyard block
10.6 Using the Gennaker
The gennaker halyard pulls the bowsprit out at the same time – when the gennaker is
hoisted, you are ready to go. The crew, or the helm if sailing singlehanded, should now pull
gently on the leeward gennaker sheet until the gennaker has lled. Gennakers may be
effectively used from a close reach to a broad reach so, to get downwind, one should
become adept at gybing. It is not possible to tack with the gennaker hoisted. For the best
effect, the gennaker sheet should always be eased as far as possible, so that the luff is just
on the point of curling.
Gybing with the gennaker is fairly straightforward. Like the jib, it should be pulled across at
the same time as the mainsail comes across. As soon as it has been pulled in and lled with
wind, it should again be immediately eased for maximum efciency and speed
To drop the gennaker, reverse the procedure used to hoist. The boat should be sailing on a
broad reach, and the slack in the gennaker downhaul is pulled in from the left hand halyard
block As the gennaker downhaul goes tight, the gennaker halyard should be popped out of
the cleat. Then, pull the remainder of the gennaker downhaul through until the gennaker is
pulled sharply into the chute. Dropping the gennaker on tighter reaches is harder, and
requires more effort on the gennaker downhaul.
TOP TIP
Tie a rope bobble onto the gennaker halyard, about 10 cm from the bowline that is attached
to the head of the gennaker. This will make dropping the gennaker easier.
HINT
The gennaker can “bunch up” when entering the chute. This can be minimised by keeping
some tension on the gennaker sheet, preventing the clew from being sucked into the chute
with the main body of the gennaker.
When the gennaker is fully lowered, tidy the sheets and the halyard to keep the cockpit area
clear.
Rigging Guide
11. Maintenance
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
11.1 - Hull Care
The RS Venture is made using a robust polyester resin, glassbre and coremat laminate.
Although very robust, your Venture should be supported ashore on an approved RS trolley.
The hull can also be stored on the transom, but never store the boat for long periods on its
side. When dealing with a marine environment, equipment gets wet; this in itself is not a
problem. The problem starts when moisture is trapped for any length of time. Therefore, it is
very important to store the boat properly ashore.
Keep your dinghy drained and well ventilated
Ensure that the boat is stored with the bow raised to allow water to drain away at the transom,
or level enough to drain through the cockpit bungs either side.
Wash with fresh water
Fresh water evaporates far more quickly than salt water so, if your dinghy has been sailed
in salt water, rinse it thoroughly. The ttings will also work better if regularly washed. Any
stubborn marks on the hull can be removed with a light detergent, or a breglass cleaner and
polish.
Hull damage falls into three categories:
• SERIOUS – large hole, split, crack, or worse. Don’t be too distressed! Get the
remnants back to RS Sailing – most problems can be repaired.
• MEDIUM – small hole or split. If this occurs during an event, sailing can often be
continued as long as leaking can be prevented by drying the area and applying strong
adhesive tape. CAUTION – if the damage is close to a heavily loaded point, then the
surrounding area should be closely examined to ensure that it will accept the loads. Get the
damage professionally repaired as soon as possible.
• SMALL – dents, scratching. This type of damage is not boat threatening.
The benet of a hard-wearing breglass hull is that it can be invisibly repaired and refurbished
to look as new again. Any reputable GRP repairer should have the skills and materials for
most jobs, but it is recommended that major repairs are undertaken by a recommended RS
repair centre.
11.2 - Foil Care
The rudder blade is an aluminium extrusion with a loose tting foam core. The end caps
are injection moulded in a nylon reinforced plastic, and are very hard-wearing and can be
replaced if worn or damaged severely. The rudder blades may leak slightly, but it is nothing to
worry about as very little room for water and it will normally drain out the way it came in.
Like the hull, the foils will benet from being rinsed in fresh water regularly, when you hose
down the boat.
If you are going to trail your boat frequently, you may wish to invest in an RS Sailing padded
rudder bag. These will protect your RS Venture from any damage caused by the rudder and
blade in transit.
11.3 - Spar Care
The mast and boom are aluminium. Wash with fresh water as often as possible, both
inside and out. Check all of the riveted ttings on a regular basis for any signs of corrosion
or wear.
11.4 - Sail Care
The mainsail should be rolled and stored dry, out of direct sunlight. When using a new
sail for the rst time, try to avoid extreme conditions as high loads on new sailcloth can
diminish the racing life of the sail.
If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove it using a light detergent and warm water.
DO NOT attempt to launder the sail yourself.
A sail can be temporarily repaired using a self-adhesive cloth tape, such as Dacron or
Mylar. The sail should be returned to a sail maker for a professional repair. Check for wear
and tear, especially around the batten pockets, on a regular basis.
11.5 - Fixtures and Fittings
All of the xtures and ttings have been designed for a specic purpose in the boat. These
items may break when placed under any unnecessary load, or when used for a different
function to their intended purpose. To ensure optimum performance, wash the xtures and
ttings with fresh water regularly, checking shackles, bolts, etc. for tightness.
Rigging Guide
12. Warranty
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
12. Warranty
1. This warranty is given in addition to all rights given by statute or otherwise.
2. RS Sailing warrants all boats and component parts manufactured by it to be free from
defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and circumstances, and the
exercise of prudent seamanship, for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of
commissioning by the original owner. The owner must exercise routine maintenance and
care.
3. This warranty does not apply to defects in surface coatings caused by weathering or
normal use and wear.
4. This warranty does not apply if the boat has been altered, modied, or repaired without
prior written approval of RS Sailing. Any changes to the hill structure, deck structure, rig,
or foils without the written approval of RS Sailing will void this warranty.
5. Warranty claims for materials or equipment not manufactured by RS Sailing can be made
directly to the relevant manufacturer. RS Sailing warrants that these parts were installed
correctly and according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
6. Warranty claims shall be made to RS Sailing as soon as practicable and, in any event,
within 28 days of discovery of the defect. No repairs under warranty are to be undertaken
without written approval of RS Sailing.
7. Upon approval of a warranty claim, RS Sailing may, at its expense, repair or replace the
component. In all cases, the replacement will be equal in value to the original component.
8. Due to the continuing evolution of the marine market, RS Sailing reserves the right to
change the design, material, or construction of its products without incurring any
obligation to incorporate such changes in products already built or in use.
13 - Knots
Knot #1
Knot #4
Knot #2
Knot #5
Knot #3
Knot #6
Knot #1 - Knot on knot
a)
Knot #2 - Bowline
a) b) c)
b)
d) e)
13 - Knots
Knot #3 - Figure of eight
a)
Knot #4 - Overhand knot
a)
b)
c)
b)
Knot #5 - Double sheet bend
Knot #6 - Cow hitch
Rigging Guide
14. Glossary
A
Aft At the back
Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat
Astern Behind the boat
Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow
B
Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail
Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water
Batten A thin strip of wood/plastic inserted in the sail to keep it flat
Batten Key A key used to adjust the batten
Batten Pocket A pocket on the sail that holds the batten
Beam Width of the boat at the widest point of the side of the boat.
The phrase ‘wind on the beam’ means that the wind is coming from the side.
Bear away To turn downwind
Beat To sail a zig-zag course to make progress upwind
Beaufort Scale A measure of wind strength, from Force 1 to Force 12
Bilge Rail The moulded line that marks the transition from the side to the bottom of
the hull
Block A pulley used for sail control lines
Boom The spar at the bottom edge of sail
Boom Pad The pad that fits onto the boom
Bow The front of the boat
Bow Lifting Handle The handle at the front of the boat, used for lifting
Bowline A useful and reliable knot, with a loop in it
Bow Snubber The part of the trolley that the bow rests on
Builder’s Plate Plate that contains build information
Bung A stopper for the drain hole
Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for
navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course
Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water
Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy
Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction
C
Capsize To overturn
Capsize Recovery To right, or recover, the boat after a capsize
Catamaran A boat with two hulls
Centreboard The foil that sits below the hull to counteract the sideways push of the wind,
and to create forward motion
Centreboard Case The casing in the hull in which the centreboard sits
Centreline An imaginary line that runs through the centre of the hull, from the bow to
the stern
Chart datum Depths shown on a chart, at the lowest possible tide
Cleat A device to grip ropes and hold them in place – some grip automatically,
while others need the rope tying around them
Clew Lower corner of the sail, closest to the stern
Close hauled Sailing as close to the wind as you can; point of sailing to sail upwind
Cockpit The open area in the boat providing space for the `helm and the crew
Collision Regulations The ‘rules of the road’ to avoid collisions
Compass Rose The compass shown on a chart to aid navigation
Crew Helps the helmsman to sail the boat, and usually handles the jib sheets
Cutter A boat with two headsails or jibs
D
Dacron A brand of polyester sailcloth that is wrinkle-resistant and strong
Deck A floor-like surface occupying part of the hull
Deck Moulding A moulded deck
Downhaul Applies downwards tension to a sail
Downwind To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Drain Hole A hole in the hull from which trapped water can be drained
Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface
E
Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently
F
Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing
Foils The daggerboard and the rudder
Foot The bottom edge of a sail
Fore Towards the front of the boat
Forestay The wire line that runs from the front of the mast to the bow of the
hull, holding the mast in position
Furl To gather a sail into a compact roll and bind it against the mast
or forestay
G
Gennaker A large sail that is hoisted when sailing downwind
Gennaker Chute Webbing pocket in which the gennaker is stowed when not hoisted
Gennaker Pole The sprit that protrudes from the front of the hull, to which the tack of
the gennaker is attached
Gnav Bar Bar that sits between the mast and the boom, performing the
same function as a kicking strap
Gnav Control Line Line that applies and releases tension to the gnav
Gooseneck The ‘jaws’ of the boom that clip onto the mast
Gunwhale The top edge of the hull, that you sit on when leaning out to balance
the boat
Gybe To change tack by turning the stern of the boat through the wind.
H
Halyard The rope used to hoist sails
Halyard Bag Bag attached to the hull, in which the halyards can be stowed
Head The top corner of a sail
‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib
Heel A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways force of
the wind
Helm/Helmsman The person who steers the boat, or another name for the tiller
Hoist Block Block behind which the gennaker halyard is pulled when hoisting
the gennaker
Hull The hollow, lower-most part of the boat, floating partially submerged
and supporting the rest of the boat
I
‘Into the Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
Inversion A capsize where the boat turns upside down, or ‘turtles’
J
Jammer Another word for a cleat
Jib The small sail in front of the mast
Jib Sheet The rope used to control the jib
K
Kicking strap The rope system that is attached to the base of the mast and
the boom, helping to hold the boom down
Knot A measurement of speed, based on one minute of latitude
L
Launching To leave the slipway
Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west.
They help you measure position and distance on a chart.
Leech The back edge of the sail
Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the
wind is blowing
Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind
Leverage The result of using crew weight as a ‘lever’ to counteract heel
caused by the wind
Lie to A way of stopping the boat temporarily by easing sheets on
a close reach
Lifejacket Unlike a buoyancy aid, a lifejacket will keep a person fully afloat
with their head clear of the water
Longitude Imaginary lines running round the globe from north to south,
like segments of an orange. Used with lines of latitude to
measure position and distance
Lower Furling Unit The fitting at the bottom of the forestay that enables the jib
to be furled
Luff The front edge of the sail
M
Mainsail The largest sail on a boat
Mainsail Clew Slug The fitting that sits in the track on the boom, to which the clew of
the mainsail is attached
Mainsheet The rope used to control the mainsail
Mainsheet Bridle The rope runs across the transom of the boat, to which the
mainsheet is attached
Mainsheet Centre Block The main block, usually fixed to the cockpit floor, through
which the mainsheet passes
Man Overboard Recovery The act of recovering a ‘man overboard’ from the water
Mast The spar that the sails are hoisted up
Mast Foot The bottom of the mast
Mast Gate Fitting which closes across the front of the mast at deck level,
holding the mast in place
Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast
Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into
Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast
Meteorology The study of weather forecasting
Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object
Mylar A brand of strong, thin, polyester film used to make racing sails
N
National Sailing Federation Body that governs sailing in a nation. In the UK, this is the
Royal Yachting Association
Navigation To find a way from one point to the other
Neap Tide Tides with the smallest tidal change
O
‘Off the Wind’ To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Outboard Bracket Kit Bracket which enables an outboard engine to be attached
to the transom
Outboard Engin Small portable engine that attaches to the transom
Outhaul The control line that applies tension to the foot of the sail,
by pulling the sail along the boom
Outhaul Hook The fitting on the boom that hooks the eye at the back of
the sail, and to which the outhaul is attached
P
Painter The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed object
Pontoon A floating jetty to moor your boat to
Port The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
R
RS Dealer A third-party who sells the RS range
Reach Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat
Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds
Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base
Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to
trail behind a vehicle
Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in
position while rowing
Rowlock Holes The holes in the gunwhale into which the rowlocks fit
Rudder The foil that, when attached to the stern, controls the direction
of the boat
Rudder Blade The large, rigid, thin part of the rudder
Rudder Downhaul The control line that enables you to pull the rudder into place
Rudder Pintle The fitting on the transom onto which the rudder stock fits
Rudder Stock The top part of the rudder, usually including the tiller, into which the
rudder blade fits, and which then attaches to the rudder pintle
Run To ‘run with the wind’, or to sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
S
Safety-Boat Cover Support boats, usually RIBs, in case of emergency
Sail An area of material attached to the boat that uses the wind to
create forward motion
Sailmaker A manufacturer of sails
Sail Number The unique number allocated to a boat, displayed on the sail
when racing
Sail Pressure A sail has ‘pressure’ when it is working with the wind to create motion
Sailing Regatta An event that usually comprises of a number of sailing races
Shackle A metal fitting for attaching ropes to blocks, etc.
Shackle Key Small key used to undo tight shackles
Sheet A rope that controls a sail
Shroud The wires that are attached to the mast and the hull, holding
the mast up
Side Safety Line The line that runs along the side of the hull
Single Handed To sail a boat alone
Single-Line Reefing System An efficient method of reefing with one line
Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached
Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth
Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached
Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out
Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents
Starboard. The right-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
Stern The back of the boat
Stern Lifting Handles The handles at the stern, used for lifting the boat
Stopper Knot A form of knot used to prevent a rope from sliding through a
fitting, such as a pulley or a cleat
T
Tack a) To change direction by turning the bow of the boat through the wind
b) The bottom front corner of a sail
Tack Bar The bar at the bow of the hull, to which the tack of the jib is attached
Tack Line The rope that emerges from the front of the gennaker pole, to which
the tack of the gennaker is attached
Tender A small vessel, usually used to transport crew to a larger vessel
Tidal height The depth of water above chart datum
Tidal range The difference between the depth of water at low and high tide
Tidal stream The direction in which the tide is flowing
Tiller The stick attached to the rudder, used to steer the boat
Tiller Extension A pole attached to the tiller to extend its reach, usually used when hiking
Toe Straps The straps to tuck your feet under when you lean out to balance the boat.
Top Furling Unit Fitting at the top of the forestay which enables the jib to be furled
Towing Line A rope attached to the boat, used to connect to a towing vessel
Transit An imaginary line between two fixed objects, used to ensure that
you are staying on course
Transom The vertical surface at the back of the boat
Trim Keeping the boat level fore and aft
Trimaran A boat with three hulls
Trolley A wheeled structure, used to move the boat around on land
Trolley Supports The part of the trolley in direct contact with the hull
U
‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be
in motion
Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing
W
Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet
Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing
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