RS SAILING RS Quest Rigging Manual

Rigging Manual V4

1. Components .........................................................................................................1-6

1.1 - Spars ..............................................................................................................................1

1.2 - Rudder pack ...................................................................................................................1

1.3 - Rigging pack .................................................................................................................. 2

1.4 - Rope pack ...................................................................................................................... 3

1.5 - Asymmetrical spinnaker pack ......................................................................................... 4

1.6 - Symmetrical spinnaker pack .......................................................................................... 5

1.7 - Asymmetrical spinnaker rope pack ................................................................................ 6

1.8 - Symmetrical spinnaker rope pack .................................................................................. 6

1.9 - Foredeck pack ................................................................................................................ 6

2. Introduction .......................................................................................................... 7

3. Preparation ........................................................................................................... 8

4. Hull .........................................................................................................................9-23

4.1 - Toestraps ........................................................................................................................10-11

4.2 - Shroud eye bolts .............................................................................................................11

4.3 - Asymmetrical spinnaker ttings .......................................................................................12-16

4.4 - Symmetrical spinnaker ttings .........................................................................................17-21

4.5 - Adding the spinnaker sock .............................................................................................. 22-23

5. Foredeck ............................................................................................................. 24-27

5.1 - Attaching the foredeck ..................................................................................................... 25-26

5.2 - Adjusting the trolley for extra foredeck weight ................................................................. 27

6. Mast ....................................................................................................................... 28-40

6.1 - Jointing the mast sections ............................................................................................... 29

6.2 - Fitting the spreaders to the mast ..................................................................................... 29

6.3 - Attaching the shrouds ...................................................................................................... 30

6.4 - Spreader ends ................................................................................................................. 30

6.5 - Main halyard .................................................................................................................... 31

6.6 - Jib halyard ....................................................................................................................... 31

6.7 - Forestay .......................................................................................................................... 32

6.8 - Spinnaker halyard takeup elastic .................................................................................... 32-33

6.9 - Spinnaker halyard mast turning blocks ........................................................................... 33-34

6.10 - Masthead oat ............................................................................................................... 35

6.11 - Shrouds ......................................................................................................................... 36-37

6.12 - Stepping the mast ......................................................................................................... 38-39

6.13 - Forestay ........................................................................................................................ 40

6.14 - Rig tensioning................................................................................................................ 40

7. Boom ..................................................................................................................... 41-45

7.1 - Fitting the boom ............................................................................................................... 42

7.2 - Gnav control line ............................................................................................................. 43

7.3 - Mainsheet ........................................................................................................................ 44-45

8. Sails ....................................................................................................................... 46 - 55

8.1 - Preparing the sails ........................................................................................................... 47-48

8.2 - Battens ............................................................................................................................. 48

8.3 - Sail care ........................................................................................................................... 48

8.4 - Hoisting the jib .................................................................................................................. 49-51

8.5 - Outhaul ............................................................................................................................. 52

8.6 - Hoisting the mainsail ........................................................................................................ 53-54

8.7 - Downhaul .......................................................................................................................... 55

8.8 - Mainsail tack strap ............................................................................................................ 55

9. Gennaker/Spinnaker .............................................................................................. 56-65

9.1 - Rigging the asymmetric spinnaker .................................................................................... 57-60

9.2 - Rigging the symmetrical spinnaker ................................................................................... 61-64

9.3 - Spinnaker pole .................................................................................................................. 65-67

10. Foils ....................................................................................................................... 68-70

10.1 - Rudder ............................................................................................................................. 69-70

10.2 - Centreboard ..................................................................................................................... 70

11. Reeng ................................................................................................................... 71-74

11.1 - Rigging the reeng line ..................................................................................................... 72

11.2 - Reeng the mainsail ........................................................................................................ 73-74

12. Outboard bracket .................................................................................................. 75-77

13. Sailing Hints .......................................................................................................... 78-84

Contents

QUANTITY COMPONENT

1.1 - Spars

1.2 - Rudder pack

1 (optional)

Lower mast

Spreader

Spreader end

Clevis pin

Split ring

Upper mast

Boom and gnav

Spinnaker pole

Bowsprit

QUANTITY COMPONENT

Rudder

Tiller

Tiller extension

Screws

QUANTITY COMPONENT

1.3 - Rigging Pack

Shroud eye bolts2

Shrouds

Shroud vernier covers

Forestay

40mm block with becket (mainsheet)

30mm block (jib halyard)

Shroud adjuster plate

Plastic bobble (jib halyard)

Shroud recess bars

April 2017 onwards

1.4 - Rope Pack

QUANTITY COMPONENT

Jib halyard

Main halyard

Mainsheet strop

Mainsheet

Jibsheet

Reeng line

Cunningham (downhaul)

Outhaul

QUANTITY COMPONENT

1.5 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Pack

M5 X 8mm bolt

M4 x 25mm bolt

Metal ring

Plastic bobble

Metal eyelet

Cleat

Cleat base

Bow turning block

M4 x 25mm bolt

M4 x 12mm bolt

30mm block

Ratchet block

30mm block with shackle, spring and eyelet

30mm block with shackle (Spinnaker halyard)

Spinnaker halyard takeup elastic

QUANTITY COMPONENT

1.6 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Pack

M5 X 8mm bolt

Metal ring

Plastic bobble

Metal eyelet

Cleat

Cleat base

Ratchet block

30mm block with shackle, spring and eyelet

30mm block with shackle (spinnaker halyard)

M4 x 25mm bolt

M5 x 35mm bolt

Size 10 x 1” pan head screws

Size 8 x 3/4” pan head screws

Large cleat

Large metal eyelet

Pole retainer wire

Spinnaker halyard takeup elastic

QUANTITY COMPONENT

1.8 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Rope Pack

1.9 - Foredeck Pack

1.7 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Rope Pack

QUANTITY COMPONENT

Spinnaker sock elastic tie

Spinnaker takeup elastic

Spinnaker sheet

Spinnaker halyard

Twinning line

QUANTITY COMPONENT

Foredeck

Washer

Metal spigot

M5 x 12mm countersunk bolt

M8 x 50mm bolt

2 - Introduction

Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS Quest, and thank you for choosing an

RS product. We are condent that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing

in this truly excellent design. The RS Quest is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic sailability and performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS Quest, in a safe manner. It contains details of the

craft, the equipment supplied or tted, its systems, and information on its safe operation

and maintenance. Please read this manual carefully and be sure that you understand its contents before using your RS Quest.

This manual will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your rst

boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your own safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before assuming command of the craft. If you are unsure, RS, your RS Dealer, or your national sailing federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be able to advise you of a local sailing school, or a competent instructor.

Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if you sell the boat.

For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:

RS Sailing Premier Way Abbey Park Romsey Hampshire SO51 9DQ Tel: +44 (0)1794 526760 Email: info@RSsailing.com

For details of your local RS Dealer, please visit www.RSsailing.com

3 - Preparation

Your RS Quest comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat sailing. In order to commission it, you will need the following tools:

• Pliers or a shackle key

• Small, at-bladed screw driver

• PVC electrician’s tape

• Pozi-drive screwdriver

• Adjustable spanner (small)

Including adding a spinnaker system please allow three hours to fully prepare

your Quest.

Whilst your RS Quest has been carefully prepared, it is important that new

owners should check that shackles and knots are tight. This is especially important when the boat is new, as travelling can loosen seemingly tight ttings and knots. It is also important to check such items prior to sailing regularly.

If you have ordered the Symmetrical or Asymmetrical spinnaker packs, you will have to t the components to the boat yourself, as shown in sections 4.3 and 4.4.

To simplify the commissioning process, please take care when unpacking

the items from the boat as cross contamination of pack contents can cause confusion. A calm and orderly environment will assist the process.

Rigging Guide

4 - Hull

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

4.1 - Toestraps

Start by attaching the toestraps to the thwart across the middle of the cockpit.

To do this you will need a pozidrive screwdriver.

Make sure you attach the toestraps the right way round. The ends with the webbing loop attach to the thwart. The ends with the buckle DO NOT attach to the thwart.

The forward toestraps are separate and the aft toestraps are joined together in a V shape.

Remove ONE of the screws from the toestrap retainer on the thwart.

Rotate the toestrap retainer outwards to allow you to slide the webbing loop on the toestrap over it.

Rotate the toestrap retainer back into position and replace the screw.

Repeat for all four toestrap retainers on the thwart.

Webbing side up

You can now attach the two forward toestrap ends and one aft toestrap end to the toestrap retainers using the buckle.

There are two elastics emerging from the track on the mast support beam.

Tie one of these elastics to each of the front toestraps through the webbing loop behind the buckle.

Find the two shroud eye bolts and recess bars.

Hold the recess bar beneath the gunwhale and make sure the holes are aligned

Screw the shroud eye bolt through. Tighten by hand and then give one further turn using a screwdriver through the shroud eye bolt.

Repeat on the other side of the boat.

4.2 - Shroud eye bolts

Add the shroud adjuster plates through the shroud eye bolts on either side of the boat. Temporarily attach using the clevis pin and split ring surrounded.

Start at hole 3

4.1 - Toestraps

4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker ttings.

If you have purchased the asymmetric spinnaker pack (which is available as an option),

there are a number of ttings that must be added before you can rig the boat.

To complete this section you will need:

•Asymmetric spinnaker kit

• Pozidrive screwdriver

Remove the black plastic plugs from the holes just to the port side of the centreboard.

Remove the next set of black plastic plugs from the holes just forward of the centreboard.

Screw a 30mm block from the asymmetric spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided.

a) Spinnaker Rear Halyard Block

c) Spinnaker Halyard Cleat

If you have purchased the optional foredeck, do not add it until all ttings have

been attached to the boat.

Make sure cleat opens towards the stern of the boat.

If overtightened the jaws may not close properly.

Attach the spinnaker halyard cleat using the M4 x 25mm bolts provided.

Remove the plastic plugs from the next set of holes.

Screw a 30mm block from the asymmetric spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided.

e) Spinnaker Halyard Block

4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker ttings.

Remove the two black plastic plugs which are just to the port side of the front end of the spinnaker pole channel.

Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes on the port side of the cockpit.

Screw a 30mm block from the asymmetric spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided.

i) Spinnaker pole outhaul block

h) Spinnaker Retrieval Block

4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker ttings.

Add the turning block using the screws provided.

The inboard end of the bowsprit has two ropes emerging from it. The outboard end has one rope with a plastic stopper on it. In order to insert the inboard end into the boat you will have to remove the launch line (the rope coming out of the side). Insert the bowsprit, inboard end

rst, into the hole in the bow of the boat.

Once inserted you should reattach the launch line to the bowsprit.

Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes in the channel that runs forwards from in front of the centreboard case.

Add the metal eyelet from the assymetric spinnaker kit using the two M5 x 8mm screws provided.

M4 x 25mm Pozi head

M4 x 12mm Pozi head

k) Tack Line Eyelet

m) Adding the Spinnaker Pole

launch line

4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker ttings.

Make sure that the bowsprit is fully extended.

30mm

Tack line

Block A

Keeping the bowsprit fully extended, pull the tack line (that emerges from the inboard end of the bowsprit) tight and tie to the eyelet in the bottom of the bowsprit channel with a bowline.

Tack line

Take the rope that emerges from the side of the inboard end of the bowsprit and feed it through block A at the bow (from starboard to port).

Block A

Tie a 30mm block from the asymmetric spinnaker pack onto the end of this rope using a bowline.

Adjust the stopper knot at the other end of this rope so that the bowsprit can retract fully into the boat without the 30mm block hitting block A.

Make sure the 30mm block does not meet up with the halyard block when the pole is extended.

n) Rigging the Tack Line

p) Rigging the Launch Line

4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker ttings.

boats built before April 2017 (pole is 1.65m long)

boats built after April 2017 (pole is 1.34m long)

340mm

Block A

4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings.

If you have purchased the symmetrical spinnaker pack (which is available as an option),

there are a number of ttings that must be added before you can rig the boat. It is easiest to

do this before attaching the foredeck.

To complete this section you will need:

•Symmetrical spinnaker kit

• Pozidrive screwdriver

Remove the black plastic plugs from the holes just to the port side of the centreboard.

Remove the next set of black plastic plugs from the holes just forward of the centreboard.

Screw a 30mm block from the symmetrical spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided.

a) Spinnaker Rear Halyard Block

c) Spinnaker Halyard Cleat

Remove the plastic plugs from the next set of holes forward.

Make sure cleat opens towards the stern of the boat.

If overtightened the jaws may not close properly.

Attach the spinnaker halyard cleat using the M4 x 25mm bolts provided.

Screw a 30mm block from the symmetrical spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided.

e) Spinnaker Front Halyard Block

4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings.

Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes on the port side of the cockpit.

Remove the two black plastic plugs from on top of the gunwhale just inboard of the shroud eye bolts on each side of the boat.

Screw a 30mm block from the symmetrical spinnaker kit into these holes using the two M5 x 8mm bolts provided.

i) Twinning line cleat

g) Spinnaker Retrieval Block

4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings.

Make sure cleat opens upwards.

If overtightened the jaws may not close properly.

Repeat on the other side of the boat.

Add a cleat from the symmetrical spinnaker pack using the M5 x 35mm bolts provided.

Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes in the recess half way along the gunwale on both sides of the boat.

Make sure cleat opens into the boat.

If overtightened the jaws may not close properly.

Attach the cleat using the M4 x 25mm bolts provided.

k) Spinnaker Sheet cleat

Repeat on the other side of the boat.

4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings.

Remove the plastic caps just further inside the boat from the cleats you just added.

Add a metal eyelet from the symmetrical spinnaker kit using the M5 x 8mm bolts provided.

Shackle a ratchet block from the symmetrical spinnaker kit onto the eyelet.

Repeat on the other side of the boat.

Add the twinning line through the shroud eye, from inboard to out, then tie a metal ring on the end with a knot-on-knot.

Repeat on the other side of the boat with the other end of the twinning line.

o) Spinnaker Ratchet

p) Rigging the Twinning Line

Tie a gure of eight knot 1m from each end of the twinning

line then add a plastic bobble onto each end of the rope.

4.4 - Symmetrical Spinnaker Fittings.

Remove the two screws and washers from inside the spinnaker chute.

Add the screws through the tongue of the spinnaker sock back into the holes that they came from.

4.5 - Adding the Spinnaker Sock

Slide the port side of the front edge of the spinnaker sock into the opening of the track on the tack bar.

This is easier without the foredeck attached.

Make sure the port side is fully inserted into the track and then insert the starboard side into the track opening. This can be a little tricky as you will need to bend it back on itself to get to the opening, but as long as the

starboard side is fully inserted rst it shouldn’t

be too hard.

In the spinnaker pack there should be some elastic for the rear of the spinnaker chute.

Use this elastic to tie the aft end of the spinnaker chute to the eyelet (with the 30mm block on it) on the port side of the cockpit.

If you have the foredeck option, you should t it at this point

(See section 5). If not then move on to section 6.

4.5 - Adding the Spinnaker Sock

Rigging Guide

5 - Foredeck

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

To complete this section you will need:

• The foredeck

• A pozidrive screwdriver

Water ingress: The four small compartments are not water tight water will enter and drain. The large compartment may also allow water ingress in the event of a capsize. Valuables / perishables should be placed in a dry bag for maximum protection.

If you have purchased the foredeck, it will not come attached to the boat. You will

have to add it yourself. It is much easier to do this after you have tted out and rigged the boat for the rst time as many of the ttings are difcult to access with

the foredeck attached.

Inside one of the bucket hatches on the foredeck you will nd a pack

containing all the components you need to attach the foredeck.

Remove the caps from the two holes in the top of the mast support beam.

5.1 - Attaching the Foredeck

Lay the foredeck on it’s back (hatches down).

Add the two metal spigots in the recesses beneath the front edge of the foredeck using the four M5x18mm bolts provided then turn the foredeck back over.

Pick up the foredeck and locate this into the tack bar making the spigots go into the holes.

Rotate the foredeck down into position.

Insert the two M8x50mm bolts through the washers provided into the holes in the beam and tighten.

At the base of the two compartments you will see a hole. Push down the rear of the foredeck so that these holes line up with the holes on the mast support beam.

Open the two hatches on the sides of the foredeck.

5.1 - Attaching the Foredeck

Adding the foredeck will increase the weight of the Quest and will move the centre of gravity forward. To reduce the handling weight it is possible to adjust the front support of the trolley. Use a spanner to extend the front support. This will push the boat further back in the trolley and will aid manoeuvrability.

MAKE SURE NUT IS TIGHTENED

5.2 - Adjusting the trolley for extra foredeck weight

Rigging Guide

6 - Mast

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

To complete this section you will need:

• The mast and rigging packs

• A at-bladed screw driver

• PVC electrical tape

• 8mm (or small adjustable) spanner

The Quest mast comes in two sections which must be slotted together before stepping the mast.

Ensure that the sleeve and the inside of the tube are clean and free of sand. Quest rigs are designed with a tight engineering tolerance on the sleeve.

Ensure the tubes are aligned and push together. (The rst part is often the

hardest due to misalignment). If the tubes are hard to push together spray with maclube or a similar product.

6.1 - Joining the Mast Sections

It is worth taking time to ensure that this section is completed correctly. Improperly tted

spreaders will result in undesirable sailing characteristics, and may even result in failure of the mast.

a) Carefully unpack the spreaders from the top of the mast, being sure not to damage any of the securing split rings.

b) The shrouds and forestay are in the rigging pack.

6.2 - Fitting the Spreaders to the Mast

Fwd

Primary hole

Aft

2 3 45

The Primary pin ts through the bracket’s primary hole and through the aft hole in the spreader.

The Adjuster pin ts down through hole 1 in the bracket and hole A in the spreader.

Tape up all the securing pins and rings to prevent them from being damaged, or from damaging the gennaker or spinnaker.

2.5 3.0

The spreader end cap incorporates two shroud wire slots to give a tight grip on either

2.5 or 3mm wire. The sizes are identied on the front face of the end cap (See diagram

above). The RS Quest uses 3mm shroud wire so the 3mm slot should be used.

The end cap can also be rotated so that the shroud can be positioned at either the forward or aft position of the spreader end (see diagram above). For the RS Quest the

end cap should hold the shroud in the aft position.

To attach the shroud, slacken the end screw, rotate the end clamp if necessary, then insert the shroud. Ensure that the shroud is tensioned between T-Terminal and spreader

tip, then tighten the screw rmly.

This method “locks in” the dihedral angle.

Length Adjustment: The position is described by the number of adjustment holes visible. For the RS Quest

there should be 5 holes visible as shown in the diagram above.

6.4 - Spreader ends

Rotate as necessary

See below

All clevis pins and bolts must be tted with the at head on top, and the pins must be

locked with a split ring.

Aft

Attach the two shrouds to the mast.

6.3 - Attaching the Shrouds to the Mast

Tape all split rings, pins and the outboard end of the spreader extrusion.

This will reduce chafe on the mainsail and prevent ailing sails/halyards becoming

damaged. Self-amalgamating tape is best, but pvc electrical tape is an adequate alternative.

1. 2. 3.

Shroud wire goes through aft hole

Feed one end of the main halyard into the track on the back of the mast through the opening above the gooseneck joint.

Feed the main halyard the whole way up the mast,

through the masthead tting, around the turning block

and back down the mast.

6.5 - Main Halyard

Shackle the 30mm block for the jib halyard to the second lowest eye on the front of the mast (below where the shrouds and forestay join the mast).

6.6 - Jib Halyard

Tie off both ends of the main halyard at the bottom of the mast so that they are easily accessible once the mast is stepped in the boat.

Add the plastic bobble on the end of the rope.

Add the plastic bobble to one end of the jib halyard then pass the other end through the block and back down the mast.

Top tip: It is much easier to thread the halyard up the mast if you put a small screwdriver or needle in through the track and into the rope to pull the end upwards.

Pass one end of the jib halyard through the cleat on the port side of the mast above the gnav bracket.

Attach the top part of the forestay to the mast.

Attach the lower part of the forestay to the jib furler joint using the clevis pin and split ring.

Tie off both ends of the jib halyard at the bottom of the mast so that they are easily accessible once the mast is stepped in the boat.

Add PVC tape around the clevis pin.

6.8 - Spinnaker Halyard Takeup Elastic

Tie the metal ring to one end of the spinnaker halyard takeaway elastic found in the spinnaker pack using a knot-on-knot.

6.7 - Forestay

6.6 - Jib Halyard

Shackle the 30mm block for the spinnaker halyard to the eye closest to the mast head (just above where the shrouds and forestay join the mast).

6.9 - Spinnaker Halyard Mast Turning Blocks

Feed the other end of the spinnaker halyard takeaway elastic through the small ring on the front of the mast below the eyelet that the jib halyard block is attached to.

Pass the end on the spinnaker halyard takeaway elastic down the mast, through the spinnaker pole eye

on the front of the mast (if tted) and tie it through the

hole in the mast step heel.

Make sure the elastic is tight enough that the ring on the end of it is tight against the small ring on the mast.

Use pliers to tighten.

Pass the other end of the spinnaker halyard up the mast, through the 30mm block and back down the mast.

Temporarily secure one end of the spinnaker halyard at the bottom of the mast. Once the mast is stepped in the boat this end will go to the front uphaul block.

6.8 - Spinnaker Halyard Takeup Elastic

Pass the end of the spinnaker halyard down the mast and through the metal ring on the end of the takeaway elastic.

Temporarily tie off both ends of the spinnaker halyard at the bottom of the mast so that they are easily accessible once the mast is stepped in the boat.

Add the plastic bobble on the end.

When rigged, this end will attach to the head of the spinnaker.

6.9 - Spinnaker Halyard Mast Turning Blocks

Slide the masthead oat onto the mast with one plastic

mounting plate on either side.

Make sure you have lined up the up the holes on the bracket, mounting plate and mast, then attach it using the 6 screws provided.

6.10 - Attaching the Masthead Float (optional)

If you have purchased the optional masthead oat, you will have to t it before stepping the mast in the boat.

Attach the bracket to the masthead oat using the four bolts provided.

BEFORE PICKING UP THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES

Attach the shroud to the middle of the shroud adjustor plate with the clevis pin and split ring provided.

In light winds use hole 2 or 3.

In strong winds use hole 4, 5 or 6.

Push the pin in from outboard towards the centreline of the boat.

6.11 - Shrouds

Locate the mast foot in the mast step and lay the mast in the boat.

Before stepping the mast, familiarise yourself with how the “foot” (bottom end) of

the mast will t into the “step” (tted to the boat).

Slip the neoprene boot up the shroud, pointed end to the top.

Note: On boats built from April 2017 onwards, neoprene vernier covers and 5mm bolts will be provided as standard.

For older boats, the Quest Upgrade Pack provides everything you jneed to bring your boat up to the newest spec.

If not already tted, slide the adjuster

plate onto the shroud eye bolt.

Wrap PVC electrician’s tape around

the split rings for security, and to avoid snagging. This is particularly

important if you don’t have the

neoprene vernier covers.

Ensure that the thread goes well into the nyloc of the nut, but do not bend the Vernier.

6.11 - Shrouds

Slide the boot down over the vernier.

Repeat steps a-f on the other side of the boat.

If using hole #4,5 or 6 use the M5 bolt and Nyloc in the top hole of the Vernier. Make sure the shroud passes outside the bolt.

If using hole 2 or 3 use of the bolt is not required

REMEMBER Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and spinnaker halyard are tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when the mast is stepped.

Note: It is recommended that the mast should always be stepped with 2 people.

If the wind is blowing, there will be a lot of pressure at the top of the mast making it

wave around. Consider nding a second helper if you feel you will struggle!

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

6.12 - Stepping the Mast

Now the mast is ready to be put up in the boat, or “stepped”.

Ensure that the forestay is tted correctly and loose at the lower end. Ensure all 3 halyards

are tied to the pole ring on the front of the mast.

BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES

Pass the mast, foot rst, into the boat over the stern so that the foot lines up with the mast

step. See Fig.1

One person inside the boat should line the foot of the mast up correctly with the mast step so that the pins on either side slot into the grooves of the mast step. See Fig. 2

You can now lift the mast with one person inside the boat and another helping from outside the boat until the mast is upright.

6.12 - Stepping the Mast

If the boat is in a trolley, do not walk aft

of the balance point!

6.14 - Rig Tensioning

Once the shrouds are attached, pull the lever on the forestay the whole way down to put tension into the rig.

This needs to be hard to do. If it feels loose adjust the shrouds accordingly.

Mind your ngers.

Release when not in use.

6.13 - Forestay

One person should continue to hold the mast upright while the other attaches the forestay to the foredeck eye with the clevis pin and split ring provided.

PVC tape around the ring to prevent it catching on the sails.

Ensure the tensioning lever points forwards.

Release when not in use.

Note: Boats built from April 2017 onwards will have a hook to attach the jib tack rather than a shackle. See the Quest Upgrade Pack for details of how to change your boat to the new spec.

pre April 2017

post April 2017

Rigging Guide

7 - Boom

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

7.1 - Fitting the boom

To complete this section, you will need:

• The boom

• The gnav bar

Connect the gnav bar to the slider at the front end of the boom.

Open the drop nose pin then connect the front of the boom to the gooseneck on the mast.

Connect the upper end of the gnav bar to the bracket on the mast above the gooseneck.

It is vital that the gnav toggle is inserted as shown above. Failure to do so will result in damage to the strut assembly.

Feed the gnav control line down through the swivel block and through the cleat below the boom. Tie a stopper knot in the end of the rope

TOP TIP

You can keep the boom up by hoisting with the mainsheet at

the rear of the boom.

7.2 - Gnav control line

7.3 - Rigging The Mainsheet

Find the 40mm block with a becket and the mainsheet strop from the rope pack.

Take the mainsheet strop and fold it in half to form a loop.

Pass this loop through the base of the block.

Pass the two tails of the rope back through the loop, making sure the block is in the middle.

Pass each tail of the rope through the

plastic ttings on the aft side of the thwart and

tie a stopper knot.

Rigging the Mainsheet Strop

Pass the end of the mainsheet through block 4 (ratchet block).

Make sure you feed the rope through the correct way (as indicated by an arrow on the ratchet block).

Tie one end of the mainsheet to the becket on the mainsheet block (with a bowline) then thread through the blocks as shown.

Ratchet can be turned on and off with this switch.

Tie a second knot in the mainsheet to prevent the boom from hitting the shrouds.

7.3 - Rigging The Mainsheet

Rigging Guide

8 - Mainsail and Jib

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

8.1 Preparing the Sails.

Cut along dotted lines to form the correct sail numbers.

Sail numbers should be supplied with each sail.

NUMBERS MUST BE PLACED HIGHER ON THE STARBOARD SIDE.

Unroll your new sail. Stick the sail numbers on sail by following the measurements below.

uest

300mm

100mm

80mm

60mm

75mm

There are also faint lines on the sail to show where to place the national letters (although these are optional and not supplied as standard.)

Roll from 2nd Batten.

• Batten key should be on clew of sail.

Check the inboard ends of the battens are positively

located in the inboard plastic end tting. To tension, turn

the key clockwise until the cloth becomes just tight. If it is over tightened you will have trouble tacking the head

of the sail in light weather. Insufcient tension and the sail will set up too at with wrinkles running down from

the head.

Wash salt off sails after use and dry. Roll from the head. It is easier to fold the head in (as shown) so the top of the battens coincide before starting rolling. Store sail in its bag in dry conditions away from sunlight. Although the sail is made from a quality high denier fabric it is best to slightly

slacken the top 2 battens’ tension for long term

storage.

When using a new sail for the rst time, try to

avoid extreme conditions as high loads on new sailcloth can diminish the racing life of the sail.

If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove it using a light detergent and warm water. DO NOT attempt to launder the sail yourself. A sail can be temporarily repaired using a selfadhesive cloth tape, such as Dacron or Mylar. The sail should be returned to a sail maker for a professional repair. Check for wear and tear, especially around the batten pockets, on a regular basis.

8.3 Sail Care

8.2 Battens

8.1 Preparing the Sails.

8.4 - Hoisting The Jib

To complete this section, you will require:

• The jib

• The jib sheets

• The top furling unit as attached to the jib halliard

Unroll the jib and connect the head of the sail to the top furling unit using the shackle.

The furling line emerges from under the beam through the cleat underneath the Port side.

Ensure that the furling unit is fully charged so that all the furling line is wound round the unit (turn anticlockwise) and very little left at the cleat.

Attach the end of the jib halyard with the plastic stopper on it to both rope loops on the jib head unit using an overhand knot.

Note: Boats build from April 2017 onwards will have a new style of jib shackle. The RS Quest Upgrade Pack contains the new shackle and everything else needed to bring older boats up to current spec.

Hoist the jib by pulling on the jib halyard, then cleat it off.

Find the middle of the jib sheet, fold it back on itself, such that the two ends are together. Grab the folded mid point and pass it through the cringle in the jib clew, and then pass the two loose ends through that loop and pull tight. The result should look like this.

Attach the tack of the jib to the furler unit.

Hank the jib onto the forestay.

Boats built before April 2017

Boats built April 2017 onwards or older

boats with the upgrade pack tted:

Fit the shackle on the furler unit through the cringle on the tack of the jib. Use pliers to tighten.

Hook the jib onto the furler unit.

8.4 - Hoisting The Jib

NB. Furling the jib – take care the spinnaker halyard does not get caught at the top of the jib furler – pull it in towards the mast to keep it clear of the top of the jib.

Furling and unfurling the jib is best done from the front of the cockpit, or standing on the Port side of the boat adjacent to the shroud - in both cases with good access to the furling cleat.

To furl the jib, hold a little tension on the jib sheet

and then rmly pull the furling line from the cleat.

To unfurl, it is the reverse – pull the sheet and ease the furling line through the cleat.

Lead one end of the jib sheet along the side of the boat and then down to the jib fairlead and cleat. Thread it through the fairlead and through the jib cleat. Repeat with the other end of the jib sheet, making sure they pass either side of the mast. You can either tie a

gure-of-eight knot in each sheet, or tie the two ends together. Preferably tie together.

Jib sheet arrangement

8.4 - Hoisting The Jib

Slide the mainsail clew slug into the track on the top of the boom.

Pass the end of the outhaul back along the boom and through

the cleat (on the Port side of the boom) as shown. Tie a gure

of eight knot in the tail.

Attach one end of the outhaul line to the eye on the end of the boom (on top) with a knot-on-knot.

Pass the other end of the outhaul line through the cringle on the clew of the mainsail.

Pass the end of the outhaul back through the eye on the end of the boom.

8.5 - Outhaul

Do not tension until the mainsheet is hoisted.

Release when the mainsail is dropped.

8.6 - Hoisting the Mainsail

To hoist the mainsail:

a) Unroll the mainsail.

b) Take the end of the main halyard that emerges from the top of the mast, and tie it to the head

of the mainsail, using a knot-on-knot.

Tying the main halyard

Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the mast track, just above the gooseneck mast collar, from the starboard side of the boat.

Holding the main sail in line with the mast, pull on the end of the main halyard. Pull the main sail up to the top of the mast. You will need to keep the sail in line with the mast to make pulling it up easier, especially when passing the batten pockets.

If you are hoisting full sail ensure that the luff reeng slug, used for and adjacent to the reef point, stays OUT of the mast track.

Put the boat head to wind.

When the sail reaches the top of the mast, cleat off the main halyard in the upper cleat on the Starboard side of the mast.

Tie a gure-of-eight knot in the tail.

The main halyard tail can now be tidied away into the pouch on the sail. There are two pouches on the sail for the main halyard. Use the lower one unless the mainsail is reefed.

Insert the slug on the tack of the mainsail into the track on the mast and pull the tack of the sail down towards the boom.

pouches

8.6 - Hoisting the Mainsail

8.7 - Downhaul

8.8 - Mainsail tack strap

Tie an overhand knot in one end of the downhaul rope.

Thred the other end through the hole in the boom gooseneck joint.

Pass the end of the downhaul through the second cringle on the luff of the mainsail, then down through the lower cleat on the Starboard side of the mast.

Tie a gure-of-eight knot in the end.

This strap helps to keep the tack of the mainsail in place.

Put the strap through the tack eye of the mainsail, then strap it onto the mast.

Make sure the main halyard goes under the strap to prevent it from uncleating the halyard.

The spinnaker and jib halyard need to go over the strap to minimise friction.

From April 2017, new boats will be provided with a mainsail tack strap as standard. For older boats, the RS Quest Upgrade Pack will provide you with everything you need to bring your boat up to the newest spec.

Rigging Guide

9 - Gennaker/Spinnaker

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

9.1 - Rigging the Asymmetric Spinnaker

Take the end of the spinnaker halyard without the plastic bobble on it and feed it down the port side of the mast and through the foredeck (if attached) past the mast step.

Before stepping the mast you should have attached the spinnaker halyard block to the mast and threaded the spinnaker halyard through it. You should now have two ends of the spinnaker halyard at deck level.

Pass the spinnaker halyard through the 30mm block

to the port side of the bowsprit channel, and forward

towards the bow (passing below the spinnaker

sock).

Pass the end of the spinnaker halyard through the 30mm block at the bow as shown.

Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard back towards the cockpit (again passing underneath the spinnaker sock). Pass it through the cleat and then the block just to the port side of the centreboard case.

Pass the spinnaker halyard through the block at the aft end of the spinnaker sock and then through the spinnaker sock towards the bow.

Bring the tail of the spinnaker halyard out through the mouth of the spinnaker sock and pass it through two metal rings on the spinnaker before tying it to the rope eyelet on the back of the spinnaker with a bowline.

You may need to use the tiller extension as an aid to threading the halyard up the spinnaker sock.

These two blocks must not touch when the pole is fully extended. If they touch you need to adjust the length of the launch line (see section 4.3p).

9.1 - Rigging the Asymmetric Spinnaker

Asymmetric Spinnaker System

Tie the end of the spinnaker halyard with the plastic bobble on it to the head of the spinnaker.

Attach the tack of the spinnaker to the line coming from the end of bowsprit.

Make sure these blocks do not touch when the pole is fully extended.

9.1 - Rigging the Asymmetric Spinnaker

Shackle the two ratchet blocks from the asymmetric spinnaker pack to the shroud eye bolts on either side of the boat. The shackle should be attached forward of where the shroud adjuster attaches.

Find the middle of the gennaker sheet and double it over to form a loop.

Pass this loop through the eyelet at the clew of the gennaker.

Pass the rest of the sheet through the loop and pull it tight. This is the same arrangement as the jibsheet, so you will have done it before.

With the gennaker on the port side, thread one end of the gennaker sheet through the block by the port shroud adjustor plate, in the direction of the arrow on the block .

Lead the other gennaker sheet around the Jib luff and through the block on the starboard side. Tie the two ends of the gennaker sheet together.

9.1 - Rigging the Asymmetric Spinnaker

9.2 - Rigging the Symmetrical Spinnaker.

Tie the end of the spinnaker halyard with the plastic bobble on it to the head of the spinnaker.

Pass the spinnaker halyard through the 30mm block to the port side of the bowsprit channel, and aft towards the cleat.

Take the other end of the spinnaker halyard and feed it down the port side of the mast and through the foredeck (if attached) past the mast step.

Feed the end of the spinnaker halyard through the cleat and then through the block just to the port side of the centreboard case.

Pass the spinnaker halyard through the block at the aft end of the spinnaker sock and then through the spinnaker sock towards the bow.

You may need to use the tiller extension as an aid to threading the halyard up the spinnaker sock.

9.2 - Rigging the Symmetrical Spinnaker.

Symmetrical Spinnaker Halyard/Retrieval Line

Symmetrical Spinnaker System

Spinnaker sheet

Guy

Twinning line

Retrieval line

Pole uphaul/downhaul

g) Spinnaker pole set up

Put the spinnaker pole between the middle two knots of the yellow uphaul/downhaul and attach the inboard end to the eye on the front of the mast.

There should be about 20mm of slack before the bottom elasticated end of the downhaul

comes up against it’s stop inside the mast. If it is signicantly more than this, remove the pole

and shorten the uphaul (top end of yellow rope) accordingly. You may also need to adjust the position of the 6 knots in the rope so that the pole is just above horizontal when between the middle two knots.

100mm

Pole uphaul/downhaul should go between the pole open line and the pole. This will keep the pole attached to the boat in the event of capsize.

Remove the two black plastic plugs from the holes on each side of the boom near to the gooseneck joint.

Add one metal eyelet (from the symmetrical spinnaker pack) on each side using the size 10 x 1” pan head screws provided.

Remove the plastic endcap from the track on the underside of the boom.

9.3 - Spinnaker pole.

Slide the a small metal eyelet (from the symmetrical spinnaker pack) into the track on the underside of the boom.

Slide the small metal eyelet along the track on the underside of the boom and line it up with the holes just before the aft mainsheet block.

Screw it in using the size 10 x 1” pan head screws provided.

Add the plastic endcap back onto the end of the track on the underside of the boom

Remove the four black plastic plugs from the holes on top of the boom (approximately 3/4 of the way towards the outboard end of the boom, just forward of the opening in the track).

9.3 - Spinnaker pole.

Attach the two ends of the pole retainer wire to the boom using the size 8 x 3/4” screws provided through the four holes on top of the boom (where you removed the plugs in step h).

Pass one end of the pole retainer wire through the small metal eyelet so that the wire is half way through.

The pole can now be stored on the boom, by posting it inside the pole retainer wire and clipping the end onto one of the metal eyelets.

You might need to loosen the screws slightly to allow this to pass.

Get someone to help you hold the boom as you do this or you risk scratching the boom.

9.3 - Spinnaker pole.

Rigging Guide

10 - Foils

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

To complete this section you will need:

• The rudder pack

• A large at-bladed screw driver

LOCKING GUDGEON

- PUSH TO RELEASE

In the rudder pack you will nd the rudder, tiller, tiller extension and two small athead screws.

Insert the tiller into the stock. Line up the holes,

making sure that the tiller extension joint is on the top of

the tiller, Then attach using the screws provided.

Attach the tiller extension.

To put the rudder down -

1. Lift the tiller slightly to unlock the blade.

2. Push the tiller aft until the blade is fully lowered (it will normally ‘clunk’ into the front

of the rudder stock).

3. Push the tiller rmly down to ‘lock’ the blade.

10.1 - Rudder

As a safety feature the rudder will unlock and come up if it hits the bottom.

Do not paddle with the rudder half up.

To pull the rudder up -

1. Lift the tiller slightly to unlock the blade.

2. Pull towards you (into the boat) until the blade reaches it’s maximum up position.

3. Push the tiller gently down to hook over the top of the stock.

10.2 - Centreboard

The centreboard retainer is a rope with a plastic hook which attaches to a red bungy on the opposite side of the centreboard case.

Un-clip the centreboard retainer.

When you are in deep enough water, rotate the centreboard into position.

If your boat has a rope handle on the centreboard (boats built before April 2017), pass the centreboard retainer through the handle and reattach it to the red bungy.

10.1 - Rudder

If your boat does not have a rope handle (boats built April 2017 onwards or older

boats with upgrade pack tted), attach the

retainer in front of the board and below the plastic bobbles.

Rigging Guide

11 - Reeng

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

Reeng enables the less-experienced or younger sailor to continue sailing in stronger winds.

Please follow the instructions for reeng, ensuring that the reeng line is threaded the correct

way through the mainsail.

11.1 - Rigging your reeng line.

Tie one end of the reeng line to the eyelet on the end of the

boom (on top) with a bowline.

Pass the other end of the reeng line through the cringle on

the leech of the mainsail.

Pass the end of the reeng line back through the eye on

the end of the boom (on top).

Pass the end of the reeng line back along the boom to the cleat as shown then tie a gure of eight in the end.

Ease the main halyard.

11.2 - Reeng the mainsail

Pull the reeng line tight.

One person may reef the mainsail while sailing on a close reach, sails eased, on a starboard tack.

Make sure you are in plenty of clear water while reeng.

Make sure the reeng clew slug is inserted into the

track on the mast.

HINT

The jib is a very effective strong wind sail area because it is low down and maintains a

balanced helm. So slab reef before you lose the jib – it’s more fun for the crew!

Re-tension the main halyard and cleat it off.

There is a hook on the boom gooseneck joint.

Pull down the luff of the mainsail to allow you to get this hook through the ring attached to the second cringle on the luff of the mainsail.

The sail is now reefed. You can tie the elastic (found in the rigging pack) through the cringle in the middle of the mainsail (not around the boom) to hold the reefed part of the sail in place.

Use the second pouch on the mainsail for the main halyard tail.

Do not tie the elastic or any line through the reeng eyelets and around

the boom as you risk tearing the sail.

Note: From April 2017, new boats will be provided with a different hook which makes this step easier. The new style of hook is included in the RS Quest Upgrade Pack.

11.2 - Reeng the mainsail

Rigging Guide

12 - Outboard bracket

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

12 - Outboard Bracket

The optional outboard bracket pack contains:

Outboard bracket Pintle

Bolts, nuts and washers x 4

Eye bolts x 2

First bolt the pintle to the outboard bracket through the second and third row of holes as shown.

The outboard bracket is universal and can be set up in different ways for different RS boats, so it is important that you assemble it correctly or it

will not t the Quest.

Fit the outboard bracket to the boat by dropping the pintle into the hole on the top of the transom on the starboard side.

12 - Outboard Bracket

If you have assembled the bracket correctly, the bottom two holes on the outboard bracket should now line up with two threaded inserts on the aft face of the transom.

Insert the two eye bolts and tighten by hand. You are now ready to attach an outboard motor to the Quest.

Rigging Guide

13 - Sailing Hints

PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER

13.1 Introduction

The RS Quest is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling, you should

be comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small boats. If you lack condence or feel

that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which can be recommended. See www.rya.org.uk for more information.

While we offer you a few hints to aid your enjoyment of your new boat, they should not be considered as a substitute for an approved course in dinghy sailing. In order to build your

condence and familiarise yourself with your new boat, we recommend that you choose a fairly quiet day with a steady wind for your rst outing.

13.2 Launching

With the sails fully hoisted, and the rudder attached, the boat should be wheeled into the water, keeping it head to wind as far as possible. If you have a crew, s/he can hold the boat head to wind whilst the trolley is stowed ashore.

13.3 Leaving the Beach

The easiest way to get going is for the helm to step aboard while the crew holds the boat. The helm should put a little centreboard down, then move back to his normal position and lower some of the rudder blade. Then, s/he may instruct the crew to push the bow off the wind and climb in. The crew will then lower the centreboard as depth allows. As soon as the water is deep enough, the centreboard should be fully lowered, and the retaining elastic clipped to the rope handle to prevent it retracting into the hull in the event of a full inversion.

As soon the water is deep enough, make sure that you lower the rudder blade fully. You will know it is fully down if you feel a gentle “thud” as the front face of the blade hits the front

face of the stock. Push the tiller down to lock the blade. Pull the sail in and you are away!

For the best performance, you should ensure that you and your crew position yourselves so that the boat is sailing through the water as upright as possible.

TOP TIP

If the tide is coming in as you launch, make sure that you leave the trolley far enough up the beach that it will not be swept away.

TOP TIP

If you are using the jib, pulling this sail in as you leave the beach will ensure that the bow continues to swing away from the direction that the wind is blowing from.

TOP TIP

As a general rule, sit further forward in lighter winds and further aft in stronger breezes.

13 - Sailing Hints

13.4 - Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking

When sailing close-hauled, or as close as possible to the wind, it is important to get the boom as near as possible to the centreline, especially when sailing the with the mainsail and

jib. The kicking strap should be rmly tensioned for upwind work.

The jib sheet should be pulled in fairly hard when sailing upwind – tighter in stronger winds and less so in lighter winds. Sail to the jib tell-tails, keeping the one on the back of the sail streaming and the one closest to you either streaming or lifting upwards slightly.

To tack, push the tiller extension away from you and, as the boat starts to turn, step across the cockpit facing forwards. Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the tiller back into the centre before sitting down on the new side, with the tiller extension behind your back. When you are settled, swap the mainsheet and the tiller extension into the new hands.

If the boat slows right down and feels lifeless when close-hauled, you could be sailing too

close to the wind. Ease the mainsheet and ‘bear off’ ie. turn away from the wind for a while

to get the boat going again.

13.5 - Sailing Downwind and Gybing

When sailing downwind, both sails should be let out as far as possible. To gybe, pull the tiller towards you and, as the boat starts to turn, step across the cockpit facing forward. Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the tiller back into the centre before sitting down on the new side, with the tiller extension behind your back. Often, the boom will not want to come across until you have nearly completed the gybe, so it often pays to give the mainsheet a

tweak to encourage the boom over at the moment that you want it to come! Don’t forget to

duck your head as the boom comes over. Once you are settled, swap the mainsheet and the tiller extension into the new hands.

If you are inexperienced in using a gennaker, choose a fairly

quiet day for you rst excursion. A gennaker nearly doubles

your sail area, and should be treated with a healthy degree of

respect!

13.6 - Using the Gennaker

For your rst hoist you should be sailing

downwind on a broad reach, with the

wind coming over the helm’s aft shoulder.

The crew should sit in the centre of the boat, astride the centreboard case, and hoist the gennaker by pulling the gennaker halyard from the port side of the centreboard.

13 - Sailing Hints

The gennaker halyard pulls the bowsprit out at the same time – when the gennaker is hoisted, you are ready to go. The crew, or the helm if sailing singlehanded, should now pull

gently on the leeward gennaker sheet until the gennaker has lled. Gennakers may be

effectively used from a close reach to a broad reach so, to get downwind, one should become adept at gybing. It is not possible to tack with the gennaker hoisted. For the best effect, the gennaker sheet should always be eased as far as possible, so that the luff is just on the point of curling.

Gybing with the gennaker is fairly straightforward. Like the jib, it should be pulled across at

the same time as the mainsail comes across. As soon as it has been pulled in and lled with wind, it should again be immediately eased for maximum efciency and speed

To drop the gennaker, reverse the procedure used to hoist. The boat should be sailing on a broad reach, and the slack in the gennaker downhaul is pulled in from the left hand halyard block As the gennaker downhaul goes tight, the gennaker halyard should be popped out of the cleat. Then, pull the remainder of the gennaker downhaul through until the gennaker is pulled sharply into the chute. Dropping the gennaker on tighter reaches is harder, and requires more effort on the gennaker downhaul.

TOP TIP

Tie a rope bobble onto the gennaker halyard, about 10 cm from the bowline that is attached to the head of the gennaker. This will make dropping the gennaker easier.

HINT

The gennaker can “bunch up” when entering the chute. This can be minimised by keeping some tension on the gennaker sheet, preventing the clew from being sucked into the chute with the main body of the gennaker.

When the gennaker is fully lowered, tidy the sheets and the halyard to keep the cockpit area clear.

13 - Sailing Hints

Lowering the Spinnaker-

To lower the spinnaker ease the guy forward. Uncleat the halyard and pull hard on the retrieval line inboard of the port side tank. When the spinnaker is half down, let go of both the sheet and the guy. Continue pulling the spinnaker into the sock. Only when the spinnaker is fully in the sock, stand up and unhook the pole, followed by the yellow uphaul/ downhaul rope. Stow the pole on the windward side of the boom, unhooking the guy as you do so. When the spinnaker is fully lowered, tidy the sheets and the halyard to keep the cockpit area clear. You are now ready to sail upwind again.

13.7 - Using the Symmetrical Spinnaker

As with the gennaker, it is best to rst sail with the spinnaker on a quiet day.

Hoisting-

Bear away (turn downwind) until the boat is almost on a run. If on starboard tack unhook the pole from the boom. With your right hand pick up the windward spinnaker sheet (the guy) from in front of the shrouds. Open the jaw on the front of the spinnaker pole with your left hand and place the guy in the pole (making sure it is not twisted). Lift the pole forward and hook the knotted yellow uphaul in the V jammer in the centre of the pole. If it is windy you want the pole to be high and conversely if it is light the pole should be low.

Continue pushing the pole out and hook it onto the eye on the front of the mast. Pull on the guy through the ratchet block. Pull a couple of feet of the clew of the spinnaker out of the

chute. Cleat the guy. Check the sheet to leeward is not tangled and is out of it’s cleat. Check

the windward twinning line is cleated and the leeward one uncleated. The spinnaker is now ready to hoist. Stand over the halyard block and pull the spinnaker up as fast as possible. When it is fully up the bobble on the halyard will reach the mast. Sit down, pull the guy in and cleat it. The closer to a dead run you are, the further back the pole has to come. As a rough guide, it should be almost opposite the angle of the boom.

Pull on the spinnaker sheet until it lls. Ideally the luff (windward side of the spinnaker) should

be just on the edge of curling. With a little practice the helm can help the crew with many of the

tasks. Once settled on a run it can be benecial for the helm to sit to leeward allowing the crew

to have a better view of the spinnaker.

Gybing Starboard to Port-

Bear away onto a dead run, pulling on the guy to bring the pole aft. Cleat the guy and the sheet

with the spinnaker fuly set. It is the helm’s job to to steer to to keep the spinnaker full in this

situation. Pull down gently on the now port twinning line until it is fully in. You are now ready to gybe.

Continue bearing away. The helm should grab the mainsheet to help the boom across in the

same procedure as if the spinnaker isn’t there. Once the boom is across, make sure you

readjust your course to be close to a run. Once you have settled down, the crew can now reach forward and unhook the pole from the mast. Pass the pole from behind the mainsail up to windward, ensuring that the yellow uphaul moves across the double V cleat. Pull on the string connecting the plungers to release the old guy. Once this is done, grab the new guy (on the port side) in front of the shrouds in your left hand and hook it in to the end of the pole. Push the pole out as when hoisting and hook it onto the mast. Let go of the starboard twinning line. Pull the

new guy through the ratchet block and cleat. Settle down and enjoy the ride!

13 - Sailing Hints

Bowline

The bowline is a reliable knot used for tying a loop in rope. It is extremely strong when under load, and unties easily once free of load. Some people use the rhyme “the rabbit comes out of the hole, round the tree, and back down the hole” as a way of remembering how to tie a bowline.

Take the end of the piece of rope and assess how big a loop you require

Make a small loop in the rope

Take the tail and lead it up through the loop

Pass the tail around the standing rope

Thread the tail back through the loop, and tighten

13.8 - Three essential knots

A ‘knot-on-knot’ is useful for tying the end of a rope to a sail or a fitting, and is particularly reliable due to the manner in which the rope binds upon itself.

Tie a single overhand knot in the end of the rope. Feed the rope through the sail or the fitting, and tie another overhand knot in the rope.

Pull the rope tight so that the rope binds on the original overhand knot.

Figure-of-Eight

The ‘figure-of-eight’ knot is used as a stopper knot, preventing ropes from slipping through fittings. Like the bowline, the ‘figure-of-eight’ knot unties easily once free of load.

Make a loop in the end of the rope

Lead the tail underneath the standing end of the rope

Lead the tail of the rope back through the loop, and tighten

Knot-on-knot

RS SAILING RS Quest Rigging Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual