Rigging Manual V3
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
Contents
1. Introduction .......................................................... 1
2. Preparation ........................................................... 2 - 22
2.1 - Preparation ................................................................ 3
2.2 - Unpacking .................................................................. 3
2.3 - Pack contents ............................................................ 4 - 5
2.4 - Adding the shroud adjusters....................................... 6
2.5 - Adding the spinnaker ratchets ................................... 6 - 7
2.6 - Adding the spinnaker chute bar ................................. 7 - 8
2.7 - Rig tension.................................................................. 8 - 10
2.8 - Kicker ......................................................................... 10 -11
2.9 - Trapeze elastic .......................................................... 12
2.10 - Spinnaker pole ........................................................ 12 - 13
2.11 - Spinnaker chute elastic ........................................... 14
2.12 - Spinnaker ratchet elastic ......................................... 14 - 15
2.13 - Centreboard retainer ............................................... 15
2.14 - Centreboard handle ................................................. 16
2.15 - Adding the toestraps ................................................ 16-17
2.16 - Toe strap elastic (rear) ............................................. 18
2.17 - Spinnaker halyard take up ....................................... 18 - 19
2.18 - Mainsheet rear strop ................................................ 20
2.19 - Rudder ..................................................................... 20 - 22
3. Rigging the mast .................................................. 23 - 42
3.1 - Fitting the spreaders to the mast ............................... 24
3.2 - Spreaders .................................................................. 25
3.3 - Trapeze lines .............................................................. 26
3.4 - Stepping the mast ...................................................... 26 - 28
3.5 - Final rig adjustments .................................................. 29
3.6 - Rigging the spinnaker halyard .................................... 30 - 31
3.7 - Rigging the boom ....................................................... 31 - 32
3.8 - Rigging the Jib ............................................................ 32 - 34
3.9 - Rigging the mainsheet ................................................ 35 - 36
3.10 - Hoisting the mainsail ................................................. 36 - 38
3.11 - Mainsail tack strap ..................................................... 39
3.12 - Downhaul .................................................................. 39
3.13 - Rigging the spinnaker ............................................... 40 - 42
4. Completion ............................................................. 43 - 44
5. Sailing Hints .......................................................... 45 - 48
5.1 - Introduction ................................................................ 46
5.2 - Launching .................................................................. 46
5.3 - Leaving the beach ..................................................... 46
5.4 - Sailing close hauled and tacking ............................... 47
5.5 - Sailing downwind and gybing ..................................... 47
5.6 - Using the gennaker .....................................................47-48
6. Maintenance .......................................................... 49 - 52
6.1 - Hull care ..................................................................... 50 - 51
6.2 - Foil care ..................................................................... 51
6.3 - Spar care ................................................................... 51
6.4 - Sail care ..................................................................... 52
7. Knots ..................................................................... 53 - 54
8. Warranty ................................................................ 55
9. Glossary ................................................................ 56 - 64
1. Introduction
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS 500 and thank you for choosing an RS
product. We are confident that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing in
this truly excellent design.
The RS 500 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. This manual has
been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS 500, in a safe
manner. It contains details of the craft, the equipment supplied or fitted, its systems, and
information on its safe operation and maintenance. Please read this manual carefully
and be sure that you understand its contents before using your RS 500.
This manual will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your first
boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your own
safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before assuming
command of the craft. If you are unsure, RS, your RS dealer, or your national sailing
federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be able to advise you of
a local sailing school, or a competent instructor.
1
Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if
you sell the boat.
For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:
RS Sailing
Premier Way
Abbey Park
Romsey
Hants SO51 9DQ
Tel.: +44(0)1794 526760
Fax: +44(0)1794 278418
E-mail: www.info@rssailing.com
For details on your local RS dealer, please visit www.rssailing.com
2. Preparation
2
Before rigging your boat for the first time there are several components
which must be added. Please allow an additional 3 hours to do this
before sailing. Once added, the fittings in this section can be left on the
boat.
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
2.1 - Preparation
Your RS 500 comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat
sailing.
In order to commission it, you will need the following tools:
• Pliers or a shackle key
• Small, at bladed screw driver
• PVC (electricians) tape
• Cigarettle lighter (to seal rope ends)
• 8mm socket or ratchet
• PH#2 driver
3
You may require other tools later, should you wish to make any settings or tuning
adjustments to the boat and rig.
Whilst your RS 500 has been carefully prepared, it is important that new
owners should check that shackles and knots are tight. This is especially
important when the boat is new, as travelling can loosen seemingly tight
ttings and knots. It is also important to check such items prior to sailing
regularly.
2.2 - Unpacking
DO NOT use a knife or other sharp object to cut through packaging
containing parts – you may damage the contents!
Having unpacked your RS 500 you should check that you have all the items listed in
section 2.3 before throwing away any of the packing as there may be some small items
still wrapped. If any items are missing please contact customer support.
2.3a - Pack contents
4
QUANTITY COMPONENT
2
2
2
1
2
1
6
4
shroud verniers
shroud verniers
Spinnaker Sheet
Ratchet
clam cleat
(rig tension)
forged shackle
narrow
forged shackle
standard
22mm ball
bearing block
29mm Carbo block
(swivel head)
1
1
1
1
1
1
57mm Ratchet
block
plastic hook
40mm mainsheet block
with rope attached
rudder blade
rudder stock and
tiller
tiller extension
1
1
boom
mast
2.3b - Rope pack contents
5
QUANTITY COMPONENT
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
spinnaker ratchet bungy
rig tension long
rig tension short
kicker control line
trapeze elastic bungy
spinnaker chute bungy
centre board retainer line
centre board handle
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
toestrap bungy
spinnaker halyard take
up block retainer
rudder downhaul short
jib sheet block tie
mainsheet
spinnaker sheet
jib sheet
1
1
gybing strop
spinnaker take up
block tie
2.4 - Adding the shroud adjusters
a)
Locate the four shroud adjusters
in the fittings pack and remove the
clevis pins and rings.
b)
Slide two shroud adjusters into place on
each shroud U-bolt and reattach the pin in
the top position.
6
The double adjuster is located aft for the
cap shrouds and the single adjuster is
forward for the lowers.
2.5 - Adding the spinnaker ratchets
a)
Locate the spinnaker ratchet blocks in the packs.
2.5 - Adding the spinnaker ratchets
b)
Attach the spinnaker ractchet to the
toe strap plates located behind the
shoud points on each side of the
boat. unsing a double fisherman’s
knot or other secure knot:
https://www.animatedknots.com/
double-fishermans-bend-knot
WARNING! Failure to inspect and
correct knots can cause the line to
slip suddenly when load is applied.
7
a)
2.7 - Rig tension
Locate the rig tensioner ropes and fittings in the packs:
• Short rope
• Long rope
• Clam cleat x1
• Block x 2
• Shackle x 2
2.7 - Rig tension
8
b)
c) d)
Secure the block and shackle to the bow tack plate.
Tie off one end of the short rope to
the shackle using knot #1.
A
Pass the other end of the short
rope through the other block
and tie off on the Clamcleat
with knot # 1.
d)
A
Tie off the long piece of rope onto the bottom of the clam cleat
with knot # 1.
Pass it through the block on the boat and back up to the clam
cleat, over the roller and into the jaws of the cleat.
B
C
A
tail
B
A
C
2.7 - Rig tension
9
e)
Take the tail of the rope and tie
knot #3 about 50mm from the end.
50mm
f)
700mm
Adjust the length of the
purchase to 700mm
bearing surface to
bearing surface.
a)
b)
2.8 - Kicker
Locate the kicker, the three kicker blocks and shackle.
These items may
be supplied already
attached to the boat.
Form a loop in the rope 1m from the end and use knot #6 to secure the
loop to the rear bolt on the mast step.
2.8 - Kicker
10
c) d)
Pass the short end of the
rope through block A and
attach to the top of the
block B using knot #1.
A
Pass the long end of the
rope through block B and
down to the mast step and
through block C.
B
C
A
B
C
e)
f)
Pass the end of the rope (coming
from block c) through the fairlead
next to the centreboard and then
through the kicker swivel cleat.
Tie knot #3 in the end.
Pull the assembly tight and check that the
distance from block A to the mast step is
850mm. Adjust as necessary.
850mm
2.9 - Trapeze elastic
11
a)
b)
Find the trapeze elastic in the rope kit and tie knot #2
with a 60mm loop in the end and pull tight.
60mm
Thread the other end of the elastic as shown.
c)
Tie knot #2 with a 60mm loop in the end.
It does not matter if the bungy is not under tension - i.e.
the toestraps rest on the cockpit floor.
2.10 - Spinnaker pole
a)
Check the launch line is attached to the spinnaker
pole as shown. Re-tie if necessary.
2.10 - Spinnaker pole
b)
Thread the launch line through the cheek block on the bow.
c)
Fully launch the pole so the rope hole in the pole
is adjacent to the cheek block.
12
d)
With knot #1, tie the block onto the end of the launch line.
30mm block
e)
With the block pulled hard towards the mast step
the distance between the block and mast step
should be 60mm.
Leave a 12mm-15mm tail on the knot.
Cut and seal excess rope.
30mm block
60mm
As the rope stretches this may
need to be adjusted.
2.11 - Spinnaker chute elastic
a)
Find the spinnaker chute elastic in the rope kit.
b)
Thread the elastic through the spinnaker
halyard downhaul block base on the port side.
13
c) d)
Push both ends of the elastic
through the metal cringle on
the rear of the spinnaker chute
from the inside out.
2.12 - Spinnaker ratchet elastic
a)
Locate the two spinnaker ratchet elastics in the rope pack.
Tie knot #3 in each end of the elastic.
The knots should be under the
spinnaker chute not inside.
b)
Secure one end to the spinnaker
ratchet with knot #1.
Bungee tail should be 12-15mm.
2.12 - Spinnaker ratchet elastic
14
c)
a)
Pull the elastic tight and tie the other end
the shroud U-bolt using knot #1.
Repeat on the other side of the boat.
Cut and seal the excess elastic so bungee
tail is 12-15mm
2.13 - Centreboard retainer
Find the retainer rope in the rope pack and
the plastic hook from the fittings pack.
b)
c)
Tie a small #2 knot in one end
around the inner slot of the toe strap
plate.
Slide the plastic hook so that it is
approxmiately in line with the centre
line of the boat. Use #4 knot to
secure the hook in place.
d)
Feed the rope over the boat and use
#2 knot to tie off on the oppposite toe
strap plate.
Adjust the position of the plastic hook
so it is on the centre line of the boat.
2.14 - Centreboard handle
15
a)
b)
c)
Find the centreboard handle in the rope kit.
Pass one end of the handle through the
top hole in the centreboard.
Pull the rope through the board and make
the lengths equal.
Place the two ends together, tie knot #4 in
the end.
a)
2.15 - Adding the toe straps
Locate the toestraps in the customer fittings pack.
To add the front end of the toestraps you will need a Pozidrive screwdriver.
Make sure you attach the toestrap the right way round. The end with the webbing loop
is the forward end and attaches to toestrap fitting in the centre of the boat just aft of the
mainsheet ratchet block. The end with the buckle is the aft end.
Webbing side up
Forward end
Aft end
Remove ALL of the screws from the toestrap retainer.
2.15 - Adding the toe straps
16
c)
d)
Slide the webbing loop at the front end of the toestrap over it. Locate the
loop in the chosen postion.
Position the the toestrap retainer back into position and replace
all the screws.
e)
You can now attach the aft end of the toestraps to the toestrap retainer using the buckle.
2.16 - Toe strap elastic (rear)
17
a)
b)
c)
Find the toe elastic in the rope kit
Thread one end through the second
pocket from the aft end of the toestrap.
Thread the other end through the 2nd
Toestrap using the same pocket.
Tie both ends together with knot #5.
Tails should be 12-15 mm.
Hide the knot in the Toestrap pocket.
2.17 - Spinnaker halyard take up
a)
Find the spinnaker halyard take up rope and elastic from the rope pack and 1
22mm ball bearing block and 1 29mm swivel block spinnaker halyard take up
blocks from the fittings pack.
b)
Tie the take up elastic onto the
starboard side front toe strap retainer
using knot #1.
2.17 - Spinnaker halyard take up
c)
Tie the small block onto the rear toestrap elastic between the two toestraps.
To do this you should tie a #3 knot in one end of the short rope. Pass the other end
through the eye on the block, around the back of the toe strap elastic and back through
the block. Tie another knot #3. This puts a stopper knot on each side of the block.
18
d)
Pass the take up elastic through the small block.
e)
Tie the free end of the elastic to the
large swivel block with knot #1.
29mm swivel block
Cut and seal any excess elastic.
2.18 - Mainsheet rear strop
a)
Find the mainsheet strop in the pack.
b)
Remove one of the screws
and loosen the other on the
toe strap plates on the rear
quarters of the boat. Slide
the loop at each end of the
mainsheet strop under the
plates. Replace and tighten
the screws.
19
2.19 - Rudder
a)
Locate the two rudder downhaul ropes and the rudder downhaul block.
rudder downhaul
control line
b)
Undo the nut and bolt from the
rudder stock.
rudder downhaul
rudder downhaul
block
These items may be in
the rudder downhaul
pack.
2.19 - Rudder
c)
Tie a #4 knot in one end of the rudder downhaul rope.
Pass the other end of the rope up through the
hole in the front of the rudder.
d)
20
e)
Slide the rudder into the stock making sure to feed the
rope over the small roller fitted in the stock, and out
under the tiller.
Line up the hole in the rudder with the hole in the rudder stock.
Push the bolt through the stock and rudder. It may need a little tap to get it through!
Refit the nut and tighten.
The pivot bolt should be tight enough to hold the blade up under its own weight, but
not tight enough as to make it hard to rotate the rudder.
2.19 - Rudder
f)
Tie the tie the rudder downhaul block to the
end of the rudder downhaul (the rope you fed
through the rudder stock) using knot #1.
g)
Tie one end of the rudder downhaul control line onto the cleat on the tiller with knot #2.
21
h)
Pass the other end of the control line through the block (added in step f)
and back through the cleat on the tiller.
Tie knot #3 in the end.
NOTE:
The rudder can be fully rotated upwards.
3. Rigging the mast
22
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
3.1 - Fitting the spreaders to the mast
It is worth taking time over this part to ensure it is correctly completed. Improperly
fitted spreaders will result in strange sailing characteristics and may even result
in failure of the mast. These settings are a safe starting point. More specific fine
tuning is available from the RS class association.
a) Carefully unpack the spreaders from the top of the mast, being sure not to damage
any of the securing split rings.
b) Unwind the shrouds and forestay from around the mast and unwrap from the
packaging.
23
1
2
7
3
6
5
D
E
4
A
B
Fwd
C
Aft
Primary hole
The Primary pin fits through the bracket’s primary hole and through the fwd hole in
the spreader.
The Adjuster pin fits down through hole 3 in the bracket and hole B in the spreader.
Tape up all the securing pins and rings to prevent them from being
damaged, or from damaging the gennaker or spinnaker.
3.2 - Spreaders
2.5 3.0
a)
Hook the shroud t-terminal into the lower
set of holes near the top of the mast.
b)
Aft
24
Rotate as
necessary
See below
Shroud wire goes through aft hole
The spreader end cap incorporates two shroud wire slots to give a tight grip on either
2.5 or 3mm wire. The sizes are identified on the front face of the end cap (See diagram
above). The RS 500 uses 3mm shroud wire so the 3mm slot should be used.
The end cap can also be rotated so that the shroud can be positioned at either the
forward or aft position of the spreader end (see diagram above). For the RS 500 the end
cap should hold the shroud in the aft position.
To attach the shroud, slacken the end screw, rotate the end clamp if necessary, then
insert the shroud. Ensure that the shroud is tensioned between T-Terminal and spreader
tip, then tighten the screw firmly.
This method “locks in” the dihedral angle.
Length Adjustment:
The position is described by the number of adjustment holes visible. For the RS 500
there should be 0 holes visible as shown in the diagram above.
All clevis pins and bolts must be fitted with the flat head on top, and the pins must be
locked with a split ring.
Tape all split rings, pins and the outboard end of the spreader extrusion.
This will reduce chafe on the mainsail and prevent flailing sails/halyards becoming
damaged. Self-amalgamating tape is best, but pvc electrical tape is an adequate
alternative.
3.3 - Trapeze lines
a)
Hook the trapeze line t-terminals into the
upper set of holes near the top of the mast.
3.4 - Stepping the mast
25
REMEMBER
Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard and spinnaker
halyard are tied off at the bottom end of the mast so they are within
easy reach when the mast is stepped.
Ensure that the forestay is fitted correctly and loose at the lower end.
BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE
NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES
Before stepping the mast, make yourself familiar with how the “foot” (bottom end) of the
mast will fit into the “step” (fitted to the boat).
The mast foot has two rectangular blocks on the bottom, separated by a groove. Both
these blocks will fit between the block at the front of the mast step and the bolt in the
middle of the step.
Now the mast is ready to be put up in the boat, or “stepped”.
It is easier to step the mast with two people, however it can be done
single-handed. Both methods are shown here.
3.4a - Stepping the mast singlehanded
If the wind is blowing, there will be a lot of pressure on the top of the mast making
it wave around. Consider finding somebody to help if you feel you will struggle!
26
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
f)
Ensure the mast step area is free from any blocks or rope.
Lay the mast along the boat with the spreader tips just touching the rear cockpit
floor and the mast foot alongside the mast step.
Attach the shrouds to the shroud plates (using the upper most hole) and shackle
the forestay onto the rear hole of the bow plate.
Step the mast.
Pull the jib halyard tight and cleat.
Attach the forestay and lowers.
Stepping the mast single handed
3.4b - Stepping the mast with two people
This is a much easier way of stepping the mast, especially if it is windy at all.
27
a)
b)
c)
d)
e)
f)
g)
Ensure the mast step area is free from any blocks or rope.
Lay the mast along the boat with the foot near the bow.
Attach the shrouds to the shroud plates, using the upper most hole.
Lift the mast out of the boat and stand it up next to the boat.
The first person should lift the mast into the mast step.
The first person then guides the mast step into place
The first person then takes forestay and attaches the rig tension cascade.
Stepping the mast with two people
3.5 - Final rig adjustments
a)
Attach the lower shrouds to the mast.
b)
Lower the main shrouds in the shroud adjusters
to hole 7, this is a good starting point .
28
c)
Attach the lower shrouds to the forward set of
chain points so they are just slack.
d)
Pull on the rig tension cascade firmly enough so that the rigging
is taught. This should make the lower shrouds go tight. If it does
not then you will need to let the rig tension off, adjuster the lower
shroud position and try again.
3.6 - Rigging the spinnaker halyard
When the spinnaker halyard it is pulled it will hoist the spinnaker but also pull the
bowsprit out too. This achieved by the spinnaker halyard running through a block
tied to the bowsprit launch line.
a)
Under the spinnaker
sock at the bow you will
find the bowsprit outhaul
line and block. Pull on
this block and you will
see the bowsprit pull out
to its sailing position.
29
b)
Take the loose end of the spinnaker
halyard, from the block at the base of
the mast, forward through the bowsprit
outhaul block and then back to the
spinnaker halyard cleat.
c)
Thread the end of the halyard through the cleat
and through the hoist block.
3.6 - Rigging the spinnaker halyard
d)
The halyard then runs over the top of the
centreboard, through the take-up block (added in
section 2.14e) and through the spinnaker drop
block on the other side of the centreboard
case, this time being threaded
through from back to front so the
tail will then go up the spinnaker chute.
Once the spinnaker halyard has
been passed up the inside of the
chute, tie the tail off on the chute
mouth bar for safe keeping until the
Both sides of the spinnaker halyard should pass on the same side of the mainsheet base i.e. don’t let the mainsheet base sit in the middle of the spinnaker halyard as it travels to the
transom then forward to the spinnaker chute.
30
3.7 - Rigging the boom
To complete this section you will need:
• The boom
• The gnav
a)
Connect the gnav bar to the slider at the front end of the boom.
Note: the slider fitted may look different
to the picture but it still works in the
same way.
b)
Open the drop nose pin then connect the front of the boom to the gooseneck on the mast.
3.7 - Rigging the boom
31
c)
d)
Connect the upper end of the gnav bar to the bracket on the mast above
the gooseneck.
It is vital that the gnav toggle is inserted as shown above. Failure to do so will
result in damage to the strut assembly.
Tie the gnav line to the kicker cascade in the boat which
you added in step 2.6.
3.8 - Rigging the jib
To complete this section, you will require:
• The jib.
• The jib sheets.
a)
Unroll the jib and connect the tack
(lower forward corner) to the bow
fitting using the tack tie provided.
The red rope may need adjusting if it stretches
over time.
The height of the jib away from the
bow is a tuning item and is covered
more in section 5 ‘sailing hints’.
3.8 - Rigging the jib
b)
Attach the head of the jib to the jib halyard.
32
c)
At the base of the mast, pull the jib up using
the halyard. When the halyard is pulled all
the way up, cleat it in the cleat just above
the mast foot.
d)
Take the 2x 30mm ball bearing blocks and the jib sheet
block tie from the pack.
Tie the two blocks together through the cringle at the
clew of the jib using knot #1.
3.8 - Rigging the jib
e)
Tie knot #3 in one end of
the jib sheet and pass it
through the p-clip located
between the jib fairlead and
jib cleat.
f)
Pass the other end through the clew
of the jib and back through the fairlead
and jib cleat.
33
g)
Pass the jib sheet across the boat.
Repeat steps e-f but in reverse this time, so going through the jib cleat first.
Jib sheet system
3.9 - Rigging the mainsheet
To complete this section, you will need:
• The mainsail (either S or XL).
• The mainsheet.
a)
Tie knot #4 in one end of the mainsheet and
pass it through the middle of the block at the
end of the boom.
34
b)
c)
Take the other end of the mainsheet through the
block on the rear mainsheet strop (which you
added in step 2.15) passing from front to back.
Run the mainsheet back up through the block at the end of
the boom, passing from back to front.
Run the mainsheet along the under side of the boom, ensuring it is passed through
d)
the webbing loops (these stop the mainsheet hanging down when it is slack).
e)
35
3.9 - Rigging the mainsheet
Finally, thread the mainsheet through the ratchet block on the boom (the block is an
automatic ratchet block so pull on both ends of the rope to engage it and check you
have threaded it the correct way, using the arrow for guidance).
Tie a #3 knot in the end.
3.10 - Hoisting the mainsail
To hoist the mainsail:
Put the boat head to wind.
a) Unroll the mainsail.
b) Take the end of the main halyard that emerges from the top of the mast, and tie it to
the head of the mainsail, using a knot-on-knot.
3.10 - Hoisting the mainsail
36
c)
d)
Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the mast track, just above
the gooseneck mast collar, from the starboard side of the boat.
Holding the main sail in line with the mast, pull on the
end of the main halyard.
Pull the main sail up to the top of the mast. You will need
to keep the sail in line with the mast to make pulling it up
easier, especially when passing the batten pockets.
e)
When the main sail is almost at the top of the
mast, slide the mainsail clew slug into the track on
the top of the boom.
37
3.10 - Hoisting the mainsail
f)
Pass the end of the outhaul rope through the clew of the main sail and clip it on the
end of the boom Ensure that the main halyard rope is in the cleat and pull the main
sail to the top. Pull on the main sail at the bottom corner near the mast to check that
it is properly cleated.
g)
Insert the slug on the tack of the
mainsail into the track on the mast
and pull the tack of the sail down
towards the boom.
h)
Tidy the main halyard and stow it in the bag under the spinnaker sock.
a)
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3.11 - Mainsail tack strap
This strap helps to keep the tack of the mainsail in place.
Put the strap through the tack eye of the mainsail,
then strap it onto the mast.
Make sure the main halyard goes
under the strap to prevent it from
uncleating the halyard.
The spinnaker and jib halyard
need to go over the strap to
minimise friction.
3.12 - Downhaul
a)
The downhaul is already tied to the mast, so all you need to do is pass the end of the
rope through the bottom eyelet in the mainsail and then down through the cleat on the
back of the mast.
3.13 - Rigging the spinnaker
To complete this section, you will need:
• 1 x RS 500 spinnaker.
• 1 x spinnaker sheet.
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a)
b)
c)
Unpack the spinnaker.
Tie the tack of the spinnaker to the ‘tack line’ that emerges from the
end of the bowsprit. The knot that is already in the tack line needs to
be left in place as it determines how far the bowsprit comes out.
Tie the end of the halyard to the head of the
sail with knot #2.
d)
Take the spinnaker downhaul line (the other
end of the halyard), which is rigged up the
chute and with the spinnaker on the starboard
(right) side of the boat pass the end through
the ring on the sail from bottom of sail to top
of sail direction.
e)
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3.13 - Rigging the spinnaker
Run the downhaul up the sail and pass the end through the
ring in middle of the sail from bottom of sail towards the top
of the sail.
f)
g)
Run the downhaul line up the sail and tie it off on the upper
patch (onto the cross of webbing) with knot #2.
Note:
Adding a knot #3 or small bobble 15cm from the patch will
improve spinnaker downhaul performance.
Find the middle of the spinnaker sheet and double it over to
form a loop.
Pass this loop through the eyelet at the clew of the sail.
h)
Pass the rest of the sheet through the loop and
pull it tight to form knot #6.
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3.13 - Rigging the spinnaker
i)
Still with the spinnaker on the starboard
side, thread one end of the spinnaker sheet
through the block by the shroud point on the
starboard side, in the direction of the arrow.
i)
Take the other end of the spinnaker
sheet and pass it around the forestay and
into the block on the other side. Tie the
two ends together.
j)
Pull the spinnaker from one side to the other, as if you were gybing, to see if
anything is twisted.
Finally, pull the spinnaker downhaul to pull the spinnaker down into the chute.
4. Completion
42
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
4 - Completion
Now you are almost ready to go 500 sailing. All that is left to do is:
• Fit the rudder to the back of the boat.
• Tidy the halyards away.
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a)
To remove the rudder, simply
push the button on the locking
gudgeon and pull up the
stock.
To fit the rudder, simply line up the pins with the fitting on the back of the boat
and push down until the retaining clip ‘clicks’ into place.
The rudder may be difficult to get on at first but all it will need is a simple
waggle from side to side whilst pushing down.
b)
Rudder blade can rotate fully.
Coil the main and jib halyards neatly and stow them in the Velcro pocket
fitted on the underside of the spinnaker sock.
Now you are ready to go sailing in your RS 500!
5. Sailing Hints
44
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
5.1 - Introduction
The RS 500 is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling, you should be
comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small boats. If you lack confidence or feel
that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which can offer refresher
courses in trapeze and asymmetric technique.
See www.rya.org.uk for more information.
While we offer you a few hints to aid your enjoyment of your new boat, they should not be
considered as a substitute for an approved course in dinghy sailing. In order to build your
confidence and familiarise yourself with your new boat, we recommend that you choose a
fairly quiet day with a steady wind for your first outing.
5.2 - Launching
With the sails fully hoisted, and the rudder attached, the boat should be wheeled into the
water, keeping it head to wind as far as possible. If you have a crew, s/he can hold the boat
head to wind whilst the trolley is stowed ashore.
45
TOP TIP
If the tide is coming in as you launch, make sure that you leave the trolley far enough up
the beach that it will not be swept away.
5.3 - Leaving the beach
The easiest way to get going is for the helm to step aboard while the crew holds the boat. The
helm should put a little centreboard down, then move back to his normal position and lower
some of the rudder blade. Then, s/he may instruct the crew to push the bow off the wind and
climb in. The crew will then lower the centreboard as depth allows. As soon as the water is
deep enough, the centreboard should be fully lowered, and the retaining elastic clipped to the
rope handle to prevent it retracting into the hull in the event of a full inversion.
TOP TIP
If you are using the jib, pulling this sail in as you leave the beach will ensure that the bow
continues to swing away from the direction that the wind is blowing from.
As soon the water is deep enough, make sure that you lower the rudder blade fully. You will
know it is fully down if you feel a gentle “thud” as the front face of the blade hits the front
face of the stock. Push the tiller down to lock the blade. Pull the sail in and you are away!
For the best performance, you should ensure that you and your crew position yourselves so
that the boat is sailing through the water as upright as possible.
TOP TIP
As a general rule, sit further forward in lighter winds and further aft in stronger breezes.
5.4 - Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking
When sailing close-hauled, or as close as possible to the wind, it is important to get
the boom as near as possible to the centreline, especially when sailing the with the
mainsail and jib. The kicking strap should be firmly tensioned for upwind work.
The jib sheet should be pulled in fairly hard when sailing upwind – tighter in stronger
winds and less so in lighter winds. Sail to the jib tell-tails, keeping the one on the back
of the sail streaming and the one closest to you either streaming or lifting upwards
slightly.
To tack, push the tiller extension away from you and, as the boat starts to turn, step
across the cockpit facing forwards. Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the
tiller back into the centre before sitting down on the new side, with the tiller extension
behind your back. When you are settled, swap the mainsheet and the tiller extension
into the new hands.
If the boat slows right down and feels lifeless when close-hauled, you could be sailing
too close to the wind. Ease the mainsheet and ‘bear off’ ie. turn away from the wind for
a while to get the boat going again.
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5.5 - Sailing Downwind and Gybing
When sailing downwind, both sails should be let out as far as possible. To gybe, pull the
tiller towards you and, as the boat starts to turn, step across the cockpit facing forward.
Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the tiller back into the centre before sitting
down on the new side, with the tiller extension behind your back. Often, the boom will
not want to come across until you have nearly completed the gybe, so it often pays to
give the mainsheet a tweak to encourage the boom over at the moment that you want it
to come! Don’t forget to duck your head as the boom comes over. Once you are settled,
swap the mainsheet and the tiller extension into the new hands.
5.6 - Using the Gennaker
If you are inexperienced in using a gennaker, choose a fairly quiet day for you first excursion. A
gennaker nearly doubles your sail area, and should be treated with a healthy degree of respect!
For your first hoist you should be sailing
downwind on a broad reach, with the wind on
your quarter. Your crew should stand astride
the centre capping, and hoist the spinnaker
from the right hand halyard block.
47
5.6 - Using the Gennaker
The halyard pulls the pole out at the same time, and so as the halyard comes to a stop
when hoisted all is ready to go. The crew should now pull gently on the sheet, whilst the
boat is luffed up gently and the spinnaker will soon fill.
Spinnakers may be effectively used from a close reach to a broad reach, and thus to get
downwind one should become adept at gybing. Tacking is not possible with the kite set. For
best affect the sheet should always be eased as far as possible, so that the luff is just on the
point of curling.
Gybing with the spinnaker is fairly straightforward: Think of it exactly as a big jib, and it
should be pulled across as the main comes across. Pull across as soon as possible as
delay or allowing the kite to flog may result in an “hourglass” effect. As soon as it has been
pulled in and filled with wind it should again be immediately eased for maximum efficiency
and speed.
Dropping the spinnaker is the reverse of the hoist: The boat should be borne off to a broad
reach, and the slack in the downhaul, pulled in from the left hand halyard block, taken up.
As it goes tight the halyard should be popped out of the cleat and the spinnaker then pulled
sharply into the chute. Dropping the spinnaker on tighter reaches is harder, requiring more
effort on the downhaul (the end of the halyard that pulls the spinnaker down).
HINT
The spinnaker can “bunch up” when entering the chute, and this can be minimised by
keeping some restriction on the sheet and thus stopping the clew getting sucked in with
the main body of the spinnaker.
When the spinnaker is fully lowered it is always worth tidying the sheets and halyard to keep
the cockpit area sorted.
6. Maintenance
48
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
6.1 - Hull care
The RS 500 is made of FRP (fibre reinforced plastic), a fibre glass cloth and vinylester
resin. This is stiff and light, but will dent if subjected to point loading. The boat should
be supported ashore on a recognised RS trolley, as the hull may distort if not supported
properly.
Obviously in dealing with a marine environment, equipment gets wet, which in itself is not
a problem. The problem starts when moisture is trapped for any length of time. The key,
therefore, is to store the boat properly ashore.
Keep your dinghy drained and well ventilated.
All composite structures, no matter what they are made from absorb moisture which
increases weight and under additional circumstances causes cosmetic blistering and
raised fibre pattern. Obviously in dealing with a marine environment, equipment gets
wet which in itself is not a problem. The problem starts when moisture is trapped for any
length of time - e.g. a dinghy is left with a PVC cover on for several weeks, the cover fills
with water and pulls the cover tight over the foredeck and sidedecks, the moisture trapped
between the cover and the deck alters in salinity and creates the start of an osmotic cell.
49
To help avoid this situation:
a) Ensure the boat is kept at an angle that allows water to run off the cover and
internal water to drain out of tanks.
b) If using a PVC cover, make sure it is removed and the boat well ventilated at
least once a week. Better still, get a breathable cover - polycotton, acrylic or
cotton duck.
c) When using an undercover, make sure the cover has an opening in the bottom
to prevent water draining from the cockpit and filling the undercover. Do not
leave the under cover on for long periods.
Wash with fresh water.
Fresh water evaporates far quicker than salt water, so if your dinghy has been sailed in
salt water, don't stop at the sails, fittings and external surfaces, wash the tanks out as
well. This is not as daft as it sounds - all RS tanks are vented and sooner or later water
will enter, particularly after prolonged capsizes. When this happens, drain the tanks and
lightly spray a fresh water hose pipe into the tank to lift off the salt water and then the tank
will have a much better chance of drying out.
6.1 - Hull care
Hull damage falls into three categories:
• SERIOUS – large hole, split, crack or worse. Don’t be too distressed! Get the
remnants back to RS Racing – most problems can be repaired.
• MEDIUM – small hole or split. If this occurs during an event, sailing can often be
continued as long as leaking can be prevented by drying the area and
applying strong adhesive tape. CAUTION – if the damage is close to a
heavily loaded point then a close examination should be made to
ensure the surrounding area will accept the loads. Get the damage
professionally repaired as soon as possible.
• SMALL – chip, scratching. This type of damage is obviously not life threatening
but needs to be attended to, firstly to keep the boat looking good and
secondly to prevent water ingress into the laminate. This type of
damage can be rectified by you the owner, if you wish. Buy the
correct colour gel coat repair kit from your RS dealer and either wait
for a dry warm day outside or preferably put your boat in a dry warm
place under cover.
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6.2 - Foil care
The foils are FRP with a foam core. Look after them as you do the hull. Wash with fresh
water regularly. Repair any chips as soon as possible.
If you intend to travel a lot with the boat, then an RS padded rudder bag would be a
worthwhile investment.
6.3 - Spar care
The mast, boom and bowsprit are aluminium. Wash with fresh water as often as possible,
both inside and out. Check all the riveted fittings on a regular basis for any signs of
corrosion or wear.
6.4 - Sail care
Good racing sails today are expensive items, yet it is surprising how many people are
prepared to neglect or mistreat them. The rules for correct sail care are easy and simple
to implement.
a) The jib and mainsail should be stored dry, out of direct sunlight when not in use
(ultra-violet light damages sailcloth), and rolled:
• Ensure there are no folds in the cloth as you roll the sail.
• If you do have a fold or crease, unroll the sail and let the crease
drop out. DO NOT PULL IT OUT!! This action can tear sailcloth.
b) Asymmetric spinnakers should be stored dry and loose if possible, do not leave
them in the chute with the corners hanging out! Do not dry spinnakers by
allowing them to flap in the wind.
c) When using brand new sails for the first time, try to ensure that the conditions
are not too extreme because the high loads on new sailcloth can diminish the
racing life of the sail. This particularly applies to the Hard Dacron jib, which may
get a lot of those 'Little white score marks'. Do not allow sails to flap
unnecessarily. Where possible, take sails down between races and as soon as
possible after sailing.
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d) If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove it using normal detergent and
warm water. Do not attempt to launder the sail yourself.
e) Repairs should be temporarily fixed using sticky number cloth or sail repair tape
and then returned to a sail maker for a professional repair.
f) Check the batten tension regularly, slack battens can work their way out of the
luff retaining caps and damage the sailcloth. The battens should be tensioned
enough in the pockets so that when the boat is sailing there are no wrinkles in
the batten pockets. Watch out for wear and tear, especially around the batten
pockets and bolt rope.
g) Make sure that all shackles, pins and sharp objects that the spinnaker might
travel over are well taped (preferably using PVC tape). Un-taped shackles or
frayed wires are the most common cause of major tears in spinnakers.
Sail numbers should be supplied with each sail.
Cut along dotted lines to form the correct sail numbers.
7 - Knots
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Knot #1
Knot #4
Knot #2
Knot #5
Knot #3
Knot #6
Knot #1 - Knot on knot
a)
Knot #2 - Bowline
a) b) c)
b)
d) e)
7 - Knots
Knot #3 - Figure of eight
53
a)
Knot #4 - Overhand knot
a)
b)
c)
b)
Knot #5 - Double sheet bend
Knot #6 - Cow hitch
8 - Warranty
1. This warranty is given in addition to all rights given by statute or otherwise.
2. LDC Racing Sailboats warrants all boats and component parts
manufactured by it to be free from defects in materials and workmanship
under normal use and circumstances, and the exercise of prudent
seamanship, for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of \
commissioning by the original owner. The owner must exercise routine
maintenance and care.
3. This warranty does not apply to defects in surface coatings caused by
weathering or normal use and wear.
54
4. This warranty does not apply if the boat has been altered, modified, or
repaired without prior written approval of LDC Racing Sailboats. Any
changes to the hull structure, deck structure, rig or foils without the written
approval of LDC Racing Sailboats will void this warranty.
5. The use of the boat for commercial purposes shall void this warranty.
6. Warranty claims for materials or equipment not manufactured by LDC
Racing Sailboats can be made directly to the relevant manufacturer. LDC
Racing Sailboats warrants that these parts were installed correctly and
according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
7. Warranty claims shall be made to LDC Racing Sailboats as soon as
practicable and, in any event, within 28 days upon discovery of a defect.
No repairs under warranty are to be undertaken without written approval of
LDC Racing Sailboats.
8. Upon approval of a warranty claim, LDC Racing Sailboats may, at its
expense, repair or replace the component. In all cases, the replacement
will be equal in value to the original component.
9. Due to the continuing evolution of the marine market, LDC Racing
Sailboats reserves the right to change the design, material, or construction
of its products without incurring any obligation to incorporate such changes
in products already built or in use.
A
Aft At the back
Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat
Astern Behind the boat
Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow
B
Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail
Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water
Batten A thin strip of wood/plastic inserted in the sail to keep it flat
Batten Key A key used to adjust the batten
Batten Pocket A pocket on the sail that holds the batten
Beam Width of the boat at the widest point of the side of the boat.
The phrase ‘wind on the beam’ means that the wind is coming from the side.
Bear away To turn downwind
Beat To sail a zig-zag course to make progress upwind
Beaufort Scale A measure of wind strength, from Force 1 to Force 12
Bilge Rail The moulded line that marks the transition from the side to the bottom of
the hull
Block A pulley used for sail control lines
Boom The spar at the bottom edge of sail
Boom Pad The pad that fits onto the boom
Bow The front of the boat
Bow Lifting Handle The handle at the front of the boat, used for lifting
Bowline A useful and reliable knot, with a loop in it
Bow Snubber The part of the trolley that the bow rests on
Builder’s Plate Plate that contains build information
Bung A stopper for the drain hole
9 - Glossary
55
56
9 - Glossary
Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for
navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course
Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water
Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy
Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction
C
Capsize To overturn
Capsize Recovery To right, or recover, the boat after a capsize
Catamaran A boat with two hulls
Centreboard The foil that sits below the hull to counteract the sideways push of the wind,
and to create forward motion
Centreboard Case The casing in the hull in which the centreboard sits
Centreline An imaginary line that runs through the centre of the hull, from the bow to
the stern
Chart datum Depths shown on a chart, at the lowest possible tide
Cleat A device to grip ropes and hold them in place – some grip automatically,
while others need the rope tying around them
Clew Lower corner of the sail, closest to the stern
Close hauled Sailing as close to the wind as you can; point of sailing to sail upwind
Cockpit The open area in the boat providing space for the `helm and the crew
Collision Regulations The ‘rules of the road’ to avoid collisions
Compass Rose The compass shown on a chart to aid navigation
Crew Helps the helmsman to sail the boat, and usually handles the jib sheets
Cutter A boat with two headsails or jibs
D
Dacron A brand of polyester sailcloth that is wrinkle-resistant and strong
Deck A floor-like surface occupying part of the hull
Deck Moulding A moulded deck
Downhaul Applies downwards tension to a sail
Downwind To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Drain Hole A hole in the hull from which trapped water can be drained
9 - Glossary
Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface
E
Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently
F
Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing
Foils The daggerboard and the rudder
Foot The bottom edge of a sail
Fore Towards the front of the boat
57
Forestay The wire line that runs from the front of the mast to the bow of the
hull, holding the mast in position
Furl To gather a sail into a compact roll and bind it against the mast
or forestay
G
Gennaker A large sail that is hoisted when sailing downwind
Gennaker Chute Webbing pocket in which the gennaker is stowed when not hoisted
Gennaker Pole The sprit that protrudes from the front of the hull, to which the tack of
the gennaker is attached
Gnav Bar Bar that sits between the mast and the boom, performing the
same function as a kicking strap
Gnav Control Line Line that applies and releases tension to the gnav
Gooseneck The ‘jaws’ of the boom that clip onto the mast
Gunwhale The top edge of the hull, that you sit on when leaning out to balance
the boat
Gybe To change tack by turning the stern of the boat through the wind.
H
Halyard The rope used to hoist sails
Halyard Bag Bag attached to the hull, in which the halyards can be stowed
Head The top corner of a sail
58
9 - Glossary
‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib
Heel A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways force of
the wind
Helm/Helmsman The person who steers the boat, or another name for the tiller
Hoist Block Block behind which the gennaker halyard is pulled when hoisting
the gennaker
Hull The hollow, lower-most part of the boat, floating partially submerged
and supporting the rest of the boat
I
‘Into the Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
Inversion A capsize where the boat turns upside down, or ‘turtles’
J
Jammer Another word for a cleat
Jib The small sail in front of the mast
Jib Sheet The rope used to control the jib
K
Kicking strap The rope system that is attached to the base of the mast and
the boom, helping to hold the boom down
Knot A measurement of speed, based on one minute of latitude
L
Launching To leave the slipway
59
9 - Glossary
Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west.
They help you measure position and distance on a chart.
Leech The back edge of the sail
Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the
wind is blowing
Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind
Leverage The result of using crew weight as a ‘lever’ to counteract heel
caused by the wind
Lie to A way of stopping the boat temporarily by easing sheets on
a close reach
Lifejacket Unlike a buoyancy aid, a lifejacket will keep a person fully afloat
with their head clear of the water
Longitude Imaginary lines running round the globe from north to south,
like segments of an orange. Used with lines of latitude to
measure position and distance
Lower Furling Unit The fitting at the bottom of the forestay that enables the jib
to be furled
Luff The front edge of the sail
M
Mainsail The largest sail on a boat
Mainsail Clew Slug The fitting that sits in the track on the boom, to which the clew of
the mainsail is attached
Mainsheet The rope used to control the mainsail
Mainsheet Bridle The rope runs across the transom of the boat, to which the
mainsheet is attached
Mainsheet Centre Block The main block, usually fixed to the cockpit floor, through
which the mainsheet passes
Man Overboard Recovery The act of recovering a ‘man overboard’ from the water
Mast The spar that the sails are hoisted up
Mast Foot The bottom of the mast
Mast Gate Fitting which closes across the front of the mast at deck level,
holding the mast in place
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9 - Glossary
Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast
Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into
Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast
Meteorology The study of weather forecasting
Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object
Mylar A brand of strong, thin, polyester film used to make racing sails
N
National Sailing Federation Body that governs sailing in a nation. In the UK, this is the
Royal Yachting Association
Navigation To find a way from one point to the other
Neap Tide Tides with the smallest tidal change
O
‘Off the Wind’ To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Outboard Bracket Kit Bracket which enables an outboard engine to be attached
to the transom
Outboard Engin Small portable engine that attaches to the transom
Outhaul The control line that applies tension to the foot of the sail,
by pulling the sail along the boom
Outhaul Hook The fitting on the boom that hooks the eye at the back of
the sail, and to which the outhaul is attached
P
Painter The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed object
Pontoon A floating jetty to moor your boat to
Port The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
R
RS Dealer A third-party who sells the RS range
Reach Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat
9 - Glossary
Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds
Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base
Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to
trail behind a vehicle
Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in
position while rowing
Rowlock Holes The holes in the gunwhale into which the rowlocks fit
Rudder The foil that, when attached to the stern, controls the direction
of the boat
Rudder Blade The large, rigid, thin part of the rudder
Rudder Downhaul The control line that enables you to pull the rudder into place
61
Rudder Pintle The fitting on the transom onto which the rudder stock fits
Rudder Stock The top part of the rudder, usually including the tiller, into which the
rudder blade fits, and which then attaches to the rudder pintle
Run To ‘run with the wind’, or to sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
S
Safety-Boat Cover Support boats, usually RIBs, in case of emergency
Sail An area of material attached to the boat that uses the wind to
create forward motion
Sailmaker A manufacturer of sails
Sail Number The unique number allocated to a boat, displayed on the sail
when racing
Sail Pressure A sail has ‘pressure’ when it is working with the wind to create motion
Sailing Regatta An event that usually comprises of a number of sailing races
Shackle A metal fitting for attaching ropes to blocks, etc.
Shackle Key Small key used to undo tight shackles
Sheet A rope that controls a sail
Shroud The wires that are attached to the mast and the hull, holding
the mast up
Side Safety Line The line that runs along the side of the hull
Single Handed To sail a boat alone
Single-Line Reefing System An efficient method of reefing with one line
9 - Glossary
Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached
Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth
Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached
Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out
Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents
Starboard. The right-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
Stern The back of the boat
Stern Lifting Handles The handles at the stern, used for lifting the boat
Stopper Knot A form of knot used to prevent a rope from sliding through a
fitting, such as a pulley or a cleat
T
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Tack a) To change direction by turning the bow of the boat through the wind
b) The bottom front corner of a sail
Tack Bar The bar at the bow of the hull, to which the tack of the jib is attached
Tack Line The rope that emerges from the front of the gennaker pole, to which
the tack of the gennaker is attached
Tender A small vessel, usually used to transport crew to a larger vessel
Tidal height The depth of water above chart datum
Tidal range The difference between the depth of water at low and high tide
Tidal stream The direction in which the tide is flowing
Tiller The stick attached to the rudder, used to steer the boat
Tiller Extension A pole attached to the tiller to extend its reach, usually used when hiking
Toe Straps The straps to tuck your feet under when you lean out to balance the boat.
Top Furling Unit Fitting at the top of the forestay which enables the jib to be furled
Towing Line A rope attached to the boat, used to connect to a towing vessel
Transit An imaginary line between two fixed objects, used to ensure that
you are staying on course
Transom The vertical surface at the back of the boat
Trim Keeping the boat level fore and aft
Trimaran A boat with three hulls
Trolley A wheeled structure, used to move the boat around on land
Trolley Supports The part of the trolley in direct contact with the hull
9 - Glossary
U
‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be
in motion
Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing
W
Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet
Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing
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