Rigging Manual V2
Contents
1. INTRODUCTION
2. RS FEVA TECHNICAL DATA
3. COMMISSIONING
3.1 Preparation
3.2 Unpacking
3.3 Rigging the Mast
3.4 Stepping the Mast
3.5 Rigging the Boom
3.6 The Daggerboard
3.7 The Rudder
3.8 Hoisting the Mainsail
3.9 Rigging the Jib
3.10 Rigging the Gennaker
3.11 Completion
4. SAILING HINTS
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Launching
4.3 Leaving the Beach
4.4 Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking
4.5 Sailing Downwind and Gybing
4.6 Using the Gennaker
4.7 Reeng
5. MAINTENANCE
5.1 Boat Care
5.2 Foil Care
5.3 Spar Care
5.4 Sail Care
5.5 Fixtures & Fittings
6. WARRANTY
7. GLOSSARY
8. APPENDIX
8.1 Useful Websites & Recommended Reading
8.2 Basic RS Feva Tuning Guide
8.3 RS Feva Gennaker Pole System
8.4 RS Feva Life Cycle
8.5 Three Essential Knots
8.6 RS Feva Logbook
All terms highlighted in blue throughout the manual can be found in the Glossary of Terms.
1. Introduction
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS Feva and thank you for choosing
an RS product. We are condent that you will have many hours of great sailing and
racing in this truly excellent design.
The RS Feva is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. This
manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your
RS Feva, in a safe manner. It contains details of the craft, the equipment supplied
or tted, its systems, and information on its safe operation and maintenance.
Please read this manual carefully and be sure that you understand its contents
before using your RS Feva.
This manual will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your rst
boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your
own safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before
assuming command of the craft. If you are unsure, RS, your RS dealer, or your
national sailing federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be
able to advise you of a local sailing school, or a competent instructor.
Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner
if you sell the boat.
For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:
RS Sailing
Premier Way
Abbey Park
Romsey
Hants SO51 9DQ
Tel.: +44(0)1794 526760
Fax: +44(0)1794 278418
E-mail: www.info@rssailing.com
For details on your local RS dealer, please visit www.rssailing.com
2. Technical Data
Length Overall (LOA) 3.64m 12’0”
Beam 1.42m 4’8”
Hull Weight 68kg 136lb
Reeng Mainsail 5.5m
3 Batten Mainsail 6.5m
Jib 2.1m
Gennaker 7.0m
2
2
2
2
57sq ft
68sq ft
22sq ft
73sq ft
3. Commissioning
3.1 Preparation
Your RS Feva comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat
sailing. In order to commission it, you will need the following tools:
• Pliers, or a shackle key
• PVC Electrician’s Tape
You may require other tools later, should you wish to make any setting or tuning
adjustments to the boat or the rig. You will also need to tie some particular knots,
such as a bowline and a gure of eight. If you are unfamiliar with the knot, please
see Appendix 8.5 Three Essential Knots.
DO NOT use a knife or other sharp object to cut through packaging
containing parts – you may damage the contents!
Whilst your RS Feva has been carefully prepared, it is important that new owners
should check that shackles and knots are tight. This is especially important when
the boat is new, as travelling can loosen seemingly tight ttings and knots. It is also
important to check such items regularly prior to sailing.
3.2 - Unpacking
Having unpacked your RS Feva, you should check that you have all of the items
listed below before throwing away any of the packing, as there may be some small
items still wrapped.
Boat Pack:
QUANTITY COMPONENT
Foil Kit:
1
1
1
1
1
1
QUANTITY COMPONENT
Hull
Lower mast
Top mast
Boom
Document bag
Owner’s manual
1
1
1
1
1
Dagger Blade
Rudder Blade
Rudder Stock
Tiller
Tiller Extension
Customer Fittings Pack:
QUANTITY COMPONENT
1
1
1
Ingleeld Clip
Plastic Bobble
Nylon Spring
Hook
3
1
20mm block
Single Jam Block
and Becket
1
100mm Dacron
Patch.
Rope Pack:
QUANTITY COMPONENT
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Mainsheet
Main Halyard
Downhaul
Boom Strop
Jib Sheet
Jib Halyard
Jib Halyard Block
S Sail Pack:
QUANTITY COMPONENT
XL Club Sail Pack:
1
1
1
QUANTITY COMPONENT
1
S Mainsail
Club Jib
Spinnaker
XL Mainsail
XL Race Sail Pack
1
1
QUANTITY COMPONENT
1
1
Club Jib
Spinnaker
XL Mainsail
XL Jib
1
1
Spinnaker
Race Pack
3.3 - Rigging the Mast
If you have the Jib and/or Gennaker Pack, please refer to Section 3.9 Rigging
the Jib, and Section 3.10 Rigging the Gennaker before stepping the mast in
the boat.
To complete this section, you will need:
• The mast top section
• The mast lower section
• The main halyard
a)
b)
c)
• Place the mast top section and mast lower section on the ground, in line with
each other.
• Slide the inner sleeve of the mast top section into the end of the mast lower section.
• Push the two mast sections together. The angle of the join should ensure that the
mast track on the two sections aligns.
• Uncoil the main halyard
• Thread one end of the main halyard through
the bullseye at the top of the mast.
• Run both ends of the main halyard to the bottom
of the mast and tie in place (this prevents them
from disappearing back up the mast!).
Please note, top and bottom mast sections are matched, they are not interchangeable
so if you have more than one boat you should consider marking the sections to identify
which go together.
3.3 - Rigging the Mast
d)
BEFORE PICKING UP THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE NOT IN
THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES
REMEMBER
If you are rigging the Jib and Gennaker Packs, you need to read Sections 3.9 and
3.10 before stepping the mast
Now the mast is ready to be put up in the boat, or ‘stepped’.
3.4 - Stepping the Mast
The Mast Gate Pin
a)
The mast-gate pin is already tted to your Feva. The
pin has a locking nut on the bottom to prevent it from
falling out.
To close the mechanism:
1) Push the Pin through the gate from above.
2) Screw down the knurled nut until it is tight.
• Remove the mast gate pin from the
hole and open the mast gate.
3.4 - Stepping the Mast
b)
c)
• Lay the mast along the boat with the mast foot in the mast well.
• Stand the mast up. The mast foot should slide down the mast well and sit
comfortably in the mast cup. The lip on the lower mast collar should be under the
foredeck, to enable you to close the mast gate.
• Close the mast gate, ensuring that you have not trapped any ropes in it.
d)
• Push the mast-gate pin back into the hole,
add the knurled nut and tighten.
3.5 - Rigging the Boom
To rig the boom, you will need:
• The boom
• The kicking cascade
• The kicker boom strop
The standard outhaul will come rigged on the boom, if you have the Race pack,
refer to the instructions included within to rig the race outhaul.
a)
b)
• Take the kicker boom strop and tie a gure-of-eight knot in one end.
• Thread the other end through the small metal eyelet on the top of the boom,
about 50 cm from the front end.
• Thread the end through the metal loop on the top block of the kicking cascade.
c)
3.5 - Rigging the Boom
• Finally, thread the end back through the eyelet on the boom, in the opposite
direction to the other end, and tie a gure-of-eight knot in the end
a)
3.6 - The Daggerboard
To complete this section, you will need:
• The daggerboard
• Daggerboard retaining elastic
• Daggerboard retaining clip
• Thread one end of the daggerboard retaining elastic through the
daggerboard handle, and tie a gure of eight.
b)
• Tie the daggerboard retaining clip on to the other end of the daggerboard retaining
elastic using a knot on a knot.
3.7 - The Rudder
To complete this section, you will require:
• The rudder
• The rudder stock
• The Tiller
• The Tiller retaining screw
• The Tiller extension
a)
b)
• Remove the rudder assembly from the foil pack and locate the components.
The self-tapping screw is in a small bag, in with the tiller arm.
• Slide the Tiller into the stock and x it with the self-tapping screw.
c)
• Tie the rudder downhaul block onto the rope from the Rudder blade
• Attach the tiller extension to the tiller.
3.8 - Hoisting the Mainsail
To complete this section, you will need:
• The mainsail (either the Feva S reeng mainsail, or the Feva XL 3-batten
mainsail)
• The Ingleeld clip
• The mainsheet
a)
• Take the mainsheet and thread one end through the large block in the centre of the boat.
b)
c)
• Next, thread the mainsheet through the block in the middle of the boom, leading it
towards the back of the boat.
• Thread the mainsheet through the webbing strap (with the
outhaul), and through the block at the back end of the boom.
d)
d)
3.8 - Hoisting the Mainsail
• Thread the mainsheet through the block on
the mainsheet bridle.
• Lead the mainsheet back up to the end of the
boom, and thread it through the hole in the center
of the block on the boom. Tie a single overhand
knot in the end of the mainsheet.
e)
f)
• Unroll the mainsail.
• Take the end of the main halyard that comes down
the mast from the bullseye (not from the cleat), and tie
it to the top of the mainsail using a knot on knot.
• Put the top of the mainsail into the opening at the bottom of the mast track, just
above the gooseneck mast collar.
• Holding the sail in line with the mast, pull on the other end of the main halyard.
• Pull the mainsail up to the top of the mast. To make hoisting the mainsail easier,
keep it in line with the mast, especially when passing the batten pockets.
3.8 - Hoisting the Mainsail
g)
• When the mainsail is at the top of the mast,
lead the halyard tail that you have been pulling around
the outside of the shroud, and pull it forward.
• Pull the halyard towards the back of the boat,
until it locks in the cleat at the top of the mast.
• Once the halyard is cleated, bring it back around the shroud.
h)
• Take the Ingleeld Clip and thread the end of the halyard through the hole.
i)
• Clip the Ingleeld Clip on to the one attached to
the elastic by the mast gate.
j)
• Pull the halyard through the Ingleeld Clip until all the
slack has been taken up.
•Tie a gure-of-eight knot here to keep the clip in place.
3.8 - Hoisting the Mainsail
The Ingleeld Clips stop the halyard opping around when the mainsail is
hoisted. To lower the mainsail, release the Kicker, outhaul and downhaul and
unclip the two clips, pull the halyard out of the cleat at the top of the mast, and
pull the mainsail down.
k)
• Coil up the halyard and stow it in the halyard bag.
l)
m)
• Push the gooseneck onto the gooseneck mast collar.
• Hook the clew of the sail onto the hook at the end
of the boom. You may like to use the black webbing
strop on the clew as a handle to pull the sail into
position, making it easier to hook the mainsail clew
hook onto the sail.
n)
• Take the downhaul rope and tie a large gure-of-eight knot in one end.
3.8 - Hoisting the Mainsail
o)
Thread the other end of the downhaul up through the gooseneck mast collar, on
the port-hand side of the mast.
p)
• Pass the end of the downhaul through the bottom
eyelet in the tack of the mainsail, and through the
cleat on the starboard side of the mast.
q)
• Connect the cleat on the kicking cascade to the Shackle on the mast.
If you are not tting the jib or the gennaker, move straight on to Section
3.11 – Completion.
3.9 - Rigging the Jib
To complete this section, you will need:
• 1 x Feva jib
• 2 x Feva shrouds
• 1 x shroud shackle
• 1 x jib halyard block
• 1 x jib halyard
• 1 x jib sheet
• 1 x jib halyard block tie
Before stepping the mast you will need to complete the following steps:
a)
b)
• Hook the eyelets at the end of the shrouds onto the shroud shackle.
• Attach the shroud shackle to the lower of
the two metal rings on the front face of the
mast.
c)
• Tie a gure-of-eight knot in one end of the jib halyard block tie.
3.9 - Rigging the Jib
d)
e)
• Thread the other end of the jib halyard block tie through the metal loop at the top
of the jib halyard block, pulling the excess through until the block is next to the
knot.
• Thread the free end of the jib halyard block tie through the shroud
shackle, in between the shrouds.
f)
• Thread the end of the jib halyard block tie
back through the metal loop at the top of
the jib halyard block, passing through
in the opposite direction to step d.
• Tie a gure-of-eight knot in the end of
the jib halyard block tie. The jib halyard
block will now hang just below the lower
of the two metal rings on the front face of
the mast.
g)
• Thread the jib halyard through the jib halyard block, and
make sure that both ends of the jib halyard are secure at
the bottom of the mast.
Now step the mast, following the instructions in Section 3.4 - Stepping the Mast.
Once the mast is stepped in the boat, you should attach the
shrouds to the shroud adjuster plates. A good setting to start with is
with the pin in the third hole down on the shroud adjuster plate.
HINT
The mast on the RS Feva is supported at deck level by the mast gate and the
foredeck. The shrouds are tted to stop the mast from bending when tension is
applied to the jib halyard, hence making the jib work better. Therefore, changing
the shroud adjuster hole position will affect the amount that the mast bends
when tension is applied to the jib halyard.
3.9 - Rigging the Jib
i)
• Unroll the jib.
• Take the tail of rope sewn into the tack of the jib,
and pass it through the metal loop on the tack bar.
j)
• Pass the tail through the webbing loop sewn
onto the tack of the jib.
k)
l)
3.9 - Rigging the Jib
• Pull the rope taut, and tie it off using two or three half hitches.
• Tie one end of the jib halyard onto the loop of
rope sewn into the head of the jib, using a knot
on knot.
Note: Instead of a rope loop, the RS Feva Race Jib has a metal eye at the head.
Tie the jib halyard to this in the same way.
m)
• Pull the jib up and tie the halyard off
around the horn cleat on the side of the
mast. Only apply enough halyard tension
to prevent the front of the jib from
sagging whilst sailing.
3.9 - Rigging the Jib
n)
To attach the jib sheet, either:
• Thread the jib sheet through the middle of the three
holes on the clew plate.
• Pull the sheet through until there is an equal amount
either side of the sail.
• Tie a gure-of-eight knot in the jib sheet on either side
of the clew plate
OR
• Find the centre of the jib sheet by folding it in half.
• Take the at stainless-steel shackle from the Jib Pack,
and attach the jib sheet to it.
• Attach the shackle to the jib clew plate.
o)
• Take one of the jib sheet ends and pass it through the bullseye and jib cleat, mounted
just inboard of the shrouds.
• Do the same with the other side, and then tie the two ends together.
3.10 - Rigging the Gennaker
To complete this section, you will need:
• 1 x RS Feva gennaker
• 1 x gennaker halyard block and shackle
• 1 x gennaker sheet
• 1 x gennaker downhaul bobble
HINT
Your RS Feva will arrive with the gennaker halyard and bowsprit already rigged.
There is no need to unthread the halyard from under the foredeck when you are
rigging the gennaker. Should the halyard be accidentally pulled through, please
refer to Appendix 9.3 RS Feva Gennaker Pole System to re-rig.
a)
b)
Before stepping the mast you will need to complete the following steps:
• Shackle the gennaker halyard block to the uppermost
metal ring on the front face of the top mast.
• Uncoil the gennaker halyard (that is emerging through a hole in the foredeck).
• Take the end of the gennaker halyard and, with the mast lying beside the boat,
thread it through the gennaker halyard block.
• Secure the gennaker halyard at the base of the mast.
Now step the mast, following the instructions in Section 3.4 - Stepping the Mast.
3.10 - Rigging the Gennaker
TOP TIP
Make sure that the gennaker halyard and the downhaul line are on opposite sides of
the mast.
c)
• Unroll the gennaker.
• Take the tack line that emerges from the end of the bowsprit
and tie it to the tack of the gennaker, using a bowline. The
knot that is already in the tack line needs to be left in place,
as it determines how far the bowsprit comes out when the
gennaker is hoisted.
d)
e)
• Tie the end of the gennaker halyard to the head of
the gennaker, using a bowline.
The gennaker downhaul line (the other end of the gennaker halyard) is already
rigged. It is running through the gennaker chute, and is tied to the tack bar.
• Untie the gennaker downhaul line, taking care not to let go of it, as it will disappear up the
gennaker chute!
3.10 - Rigging the Gennaker
f)
• With the gennaker on the port-hand side of the boat, pass the end of the gennaker
downhaul through the small eyelet in the centre of the gennaker, from the inside to
outside.
g)
• Run the gennaker downhaul line up the outside of the gennaker.
• Take the gennaker downhaul bobble from the customer pack and
thread the downhaul through it. Place the gennaker downhaul
bobble approximately 200 mm from the end of the downhaul, and
tie it in place with a single overhand knot.
•Tie the end of the gennaker downhaul onto the upper
patch (cross of webbing) using a bowline. If you nd that the
gennaker does not come all the way down, shorten the
distance between the bobble and the patch.
g)
• Find the middle of the gennaker sheet and double it over to
form a loop.
• Pass this loop through the eyelet at the clew of the gennaker.
• Pass the tails of the gennaker sheet through the loop and pull it tight.
h)
i)
3.10 - Rigging the Gennaker
• With the gennaker on the port side of the boat, thread one end
of the gennaker sheet through the block by the port-side shroud
adjuster plate.
• Take the other end of the gennaker sheet, pass it around the front
of the jib, and into the block on the other side.
i)
• Tie the two ends of the gennaker sheet together.
j)
• Pull the gennaker from one side to the other, as if you were gybing, to see if anything
is twisted.
• Finally, pull the gennaker down into the gennaker chute.
3.11 - Completion
Now you are almost ready to go Feva sailing. All that is left to do is:
• Fit the rudder to the back of the boat
• Tidy the halyards away
• Check that all knots and shackles are tied securely
a)
• To t the rudder, simply line up the pins with the tting on the back of the boat and
push down until the retaining clip ‘clicks’ into place.
The rudder may be difcult to get on at rst – all it will need is a simple wiggle from
side to side whilst pushing down.
• To remove the rudder, simply push the retaining clip in and pull the stock up.
b)
• Coil the main and jib halyards neatly and stow them in the halyard bag.
TIME TO GO SAILING!
Rigging Guide
4. Sailing Hints
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
4.1 - Introduction
The RS Feva is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling, you should
be comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small boats. If you lack condence or
feel that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which use the RS
Feva. See www.rya.org.uk for more information, or follow the link from www.rssailing.com
to nd your local RS Academy.
While we offer you a few hints to aid your enjoyment of your new boat, they should not be
considered as a substitute for an approved course in dinghy sailing. In order to build your
condence and familiarise yourself with your new boat, we recommend that you choose a
fairly quiet day with a steady wind for your rst outing.
4.2 - Launching
With the sails fully hoisted, attach the rudder to the transom. Lead the daggerboard
retaining elastic around the mast and clip it back on itself. Leave this in place while sailing.
The boat should be wheeled into the water, keeping it head to wind as far as possible.
If you have a crew, he/she can hold the boat head to wind whilst the trolley is stowed
ashore.
If the tide is coming in as you launch, make sure that you leave the trolley far
enough up the beach that it will not be swept away.
4.3 - Leaving the Beach
The easiest way to get going is for the helm to hop aboard while the crew holds the boat.
The helm should put a little daggerboard down, with the shockcord with the plastic-tubing
cover pulled forward, then move back to his normal position, and pull gently on the rudder
downhaul to lower some of the rudder blade. Then, s/he may instruct the crew to push the
bow off the wind and climb in. The crew will then lower the daggerboard as depth allows.
The shockcord acts as a friction device and a retainer when the board is fully down. Thus,
as soon as the Water is deep enough, the daggerboard should be fully lowered, and the
shockcord pulled back over the top of the board, so that it is secure in the event of a fully
inverted capsize.
The singlehanded sailor may choose to ask someone to help them to launch. If launching
alone, stand in the water alongside the gunwhale, holding the boat head to wind. Lower
part of the daggerboard and rudder, and then push the bow off the wind while hopping in.
TOP TIP
If you are using the jib, pulling this sail in as you leave the beach will ensure
that the bow continues to swing away from the direction that the wind is
blowing from.
4.3 - Leaving the Beach
As soon the water is deep enough, make sure that you lower the rudder blade fully by pulling
hard on the rudder downhaul. You will know it is fully down if you feel a gentle “thud” as
the front face of the blade hits the front face of the stock. Cleat the downhaul and tidy it by
winding it around the tiller. Pull the sail in and you are away!
For the best performance, you should ensure that you and your crew position yourselves so
that the boat is sailing through the water as at as possible.
Watch the trim (fore and aft) and the heel. The boat should always be sailed as upright as
possible.
Top Tip
As a general rule, sit further forward in lighter winds and further aft in stronger
breezes.
4.4 - Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking
When sailing close-hauled, or as close as possible to the wind, it is important to get the
boom as near as possible to the centreline, especially when sailing the RS Feva XL with
the mainsail and jib. The kicking strap should be rmly tensioned for upwind work. To pull it
on, quickly put the boat head to wind. You should hold the tiller extension across your body,
with a knuckles-up grip, enabling you to use one or two ngers as a temporary cleat when
adjusting the mainsheet.
The jib sheet should be pulled in fairly hard when sailing upwind – tighter in stronger winds
and less so in lighter winds. Sail to the jib tell-tails, keeping the one on the back of the sail
streaming and the one closest to you either streaming or lifting upwards slightly.
To tack, push the tiller extension away from you and, as the boat starts to turn, step across
the cockpit facing forwards. Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the tiller back into
the centre before sitting down on the new side, with the tiller extension behind your back.
When you are settled, swap the mainsheet and the tiller extension into the new hands.
HINT
When sailing single-handed, sit with a leg either side of the thwart area when sailing
close-hauled or reaching. If there is a lull in the wind, simply slide your backside
down off the gunwhale and onto the thwart.
If the boat slows right down and feels lifeless when close-hauled, you could be sailing too
close to the wind. Ease the mainsheet and ‘bear off’ away from the wind for a while to get
the boat going again.
4.5 - Sailing Downwind and Gybing
When sailing downwind, both sails should be let out as far as possible. Single- handed
sailors should adopt a relaxing, reclined pose astride the thwart area, leaning back against
the side deck. To gybe, pull the tiller towards you and, as the boat starts to turn, step across
the cockpit facing forward. Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the tiller back into
the centre before sitting down on the new side, with the tiller extension behind your back.
Often, the boom will not want to come across until you have nearly completed the gybe, so
it often pays to give the mainsheet a tweak to encourage the boom over at the moment that
you want it to come! Once you are settled, swap the mainsheet and the tiller extension into
the new hands.
Top Tip
Be aware that the boom can come across with some force during a gybe (intentional
or not!) so mind your head and watch for unintentional gybes.
4.6 - Using the Gennaker
If you are inexperienced in using a gennaker, choose a fairly quiet day for you rst
excursion. A gennaker nearly doubles your sail area, and should be treated with a healthy
degree of respect!
For your rst hoist you should be sailing downwind on a broad reach, with the wind coming
over the helm’s left shoulder. The crew should sit in the centre of the boat, astride the
daggerboard case, and hoist the gennaker by pulling the gennaker halyard from the right-
hand halyard block.
The gennaker halyard pulls the bowsprit out at the same time – when the gennaker is
hoisted, you are ready to go. The crew, or the helm if sailing singlehanded, should now
pull gently on the leeward gennaker sheet until the gennaker has lled. Gennakers may
be effectively used from a close reach to a broad reach so, to get downwind, one should
become adept at gybing. It is not possible to tack with the gennaker hoisted. For the best
effect, the gennaker sheet should always be eased as far as possible, so that the luff is just
on the point of curling.
4.6 - Using the Gennaker
Gybing with the gennaker is fairly straightforward. Like the jib, it should be pulled across at
the same time as the mainsail comes across. As soon as it has been pulled in and lled with
wind, it should again be immediately eased for maximum efciency and speed. If sailing
singlehanded, the mainsheet should be trapped between the ngers and tiller extension, and
the helm should hold the gennaker sheet at all times.
To drop the gennaker, reverse the procedure used to hoist. The boat should be sailing on a
broad reach, and the slack in the gennaker downhaul is pulled in from the left hand halyard
block.
As the gennaker downhaul goes tight, the gennaker halyard should be popped out of the
cleat. Then, pull the remainder of the gennaker downhaul through until the gennaker is
pulled sharply into the chute. Dropping the gennaker on tighter reaches is harder, and
requires more effort on the gennaker downhaul. If possible, this should be avoided when
sailing singlehanded.
HINT
The gennaker can “bunch up” when entering the chute. This can be minimised by
keeping some tension on the gennaker sheet, preventing the clew from being sucked
into the chute with the main body of the gennaker.
When the gennaker is fully lowered, tidy the sheets and the halyard to keep the cockpit area
clear.
4.7 - Reeng
Reeng reduces the sail area, and is an effective and essential way to continue sailing in
winds that would otherwise keep the less experienced or younger sailors ashore. There are
two ways to reef a RS Feva S mainsail:
HINT
The jib is very effective in strong winds because the majority of its area is low
down so it helps with balance. Try slab reeng rst – it’s more fun for the crew!
Round-Mast Furling
This method of reeng is applicable to the RS Feva S mainsail, when sailed without a jib.
a) • Detach the clew of the sail from the clew hook.
b)
c)
• Using a rm two-handed grip, rotate the mast through three complete turns. This is
normally enough to provide a signicant reduction in sail area.
• Detach the kicking cascade from the mast.
d)
• Re-attach the clew of the mainsail to the clew outhaul hook,
and re-tension the outhaul.
e)
• Re-attach the kicking cascade and tension to suit. The number of turns of the
mast will determine the degree to which you reduce the power in the rig.
Slab Reeng
This method of reeng is applicable to the RS Feva S mainsail, when sailed with the jib.
a)
• Release the downhaul line out of the cleat.
b)
• Ease the kicking cascade.
c)
d)
• Ease the main halyard about 7 centimetres.
• Pull the mainsail down until the line of reeng eyes in the sail are level with the boom.
e)
f)
• Roll up the excess mainsail and tie it to the boom. We recommend using a loop of
elastic attached to a plastic hook.
• Re-apply tension to the main halyard, as required.
g)
• Re-apply tension to the kicking cascade.
g)
• Re-thread the mainsail downhaul line, and cleat it on the mast.
Sailing in strong winds can be great fun, so become familiar with the reeng
systems and get back out there!
Rigging Guide
5. Maintenance
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING GUIDE IN CORRECT ORDER
5.1 Boat Care
The RS Feva is made using Comptec PE3, a three-layer polyethylene construction. This is
stiff and light, but will dent if subjected to point loading. The boat should be supported ashore
on an approved RS trolley, as the hull may distort if not supported properly. For long-term
storage, it is better to support the boat on a rack, in slings, or another type of support that
spreads the weight and avoids point loads. The hull can also be stored on the transom, but
never store the boat for long periods on its side. When dealing with a marine environment,
equipment gets wet; this in itself is not a problem. The problem starts when moisture is
trapped for any length of time. Therefore, it is very important to store the boat properly
ashore.
Keep your dinghy drained and well ventilated
Ensure that the boat is stored with the bow raised to allow water to drain away.
Wash with fresh water
Fresh water evaporates far more quickly than salt water so if your dinghy has been sailed in
salt water, rinse it thoroughly. The ttings will also work better if regularly washed.
Any stubborn marks on the hull can be removed with a light detergent, such as washing
up liquid. Always test cleaning products on a small, inconspicuous part of the deck before
applying to the whole boat.
Hull damage falls into three categories:
• SERIOUS – large hole, split, crack, or worse. Don’t be too distressed! Get the remnants
back to RS Racing so we can assess the damage.
• MEDIUM – small hole or split. If this occurs during an event, sailing can often be continued
as long as leaking can be prevented by drying the area and applying strong adhesive tape.
CAUTION – if the damage is close to a heavily loaded point, then the surrounding area
should be closely examined to ensure that it will accept the loads. Get the damage
professionally repaired as soon as possible.
• SMALL – dents, scratching. This type of damage is not boat threatening.
Comptec PE3 cannot be repaired in the same way as bre glass. Some scratching can be
removed be RS Racing staff, but dents cannot. Therefore we suggest you treat your boat
with as much care as you would if it were bre glass. More serious repairs can be carried
out by RS Racing staff; however, the repair will never be invisible, due to the nature of the
material.
The joy of owning an RS Feva is that it is very hard wearing, and any dents and scratches it
receives will not affect the structural integrity of the hull.
5.1 Foil Care
RS Sailing foils are manufactured from anodised Aluminium extrusions with injection
moulded glass reinforced Nylon ends. Lower mouldings are bonded in with polyurethane
adhesive sealant. Upper mouldings are riveted or screwed in. The upper daggerboard
moulding shows the type of boat.
Lower mouldings are sealed, however over time there may be some water ingress. If
this occurs foils should be inverted to allow water removal through the drain holes in
the top of the moulding.
Foils contain closed cell foam to ensure buoyancy and limit potential water ingress.
Maintenance
• Foils should be rinsed with fresh water after use.
• Anodising will prevent surface corrosion, however if surface damage does occur the
aluminium should be polished with wax polish e.g. car polish.
• Nylon mouldings are maintenance free but can be replaced if damaged.
• If you run aground hard with the daggerboard down, you should check that the hull has
not been punctured at the front or the trailing edge of the daggerboard case. Special ‘shock
absorbing’ pads have been tted at these points to reduce the risk of damage, and these can
be replaced if damaged.
If you are going to trail your boat frequently, you may wish to invest in some RS Racing
padded rudder bags. These will protect your RS Feva from any damage caused by the foils.
5.2 Spar Care
The mast and boom are aluminium. Wash with fresh water as often as possible, both inside
and out. Check all of the riveted ttings on a regular basis for any signs of corrosion or wear.
5.3 Sail Care
The mainsail and Jib should be rolled and stored dry, out of direct sunlight. When using a
new sail for the rst time, try to avoid extreme conditions as high loads on new sailcloth can
diminish the racing life of the sail.
If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove it using a light detergent and warm water. DO
NOT attempt to launder the sail yourself.
A sail can be temporarily repaired using a self-adhesive cloth tape, such as Dacron or Mylar.
The sail should be returned to a sail maker for a professional repair. Check for wear and
tear, especially around the batten pockets, on a regular basis.
5.5 Fixtures and Fittings
All of the xtures and ttings have been designed for a specic purpose in the boat. These
items may break when placed under any unnecessary load, or when used for a different
function to their intended purpose. To ensure optimum performance, wash the xtures and
ttings with fresh water regularly, checking shackles, bolts, etc. for tightness.
6 - Warranty
1. This warranty is given in addition to all rights given by statute or otherwise.
2. RS Sailing warrants all boats and component parts manufactured by it to be free
from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and circumstances, and
the exercise of prudent seamanship, for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of
commissioning by the original owner. The owner must exercise routine maintenance and
care.
3. This warranty does not apply to defects in surface coatings caused by weathering or
normal use and wear.
4. This warranty does not apply if the boat has been altered, modied, or repaired without
prior written approval of RS Sailing. Any changes to the hull structure, deck structure, rig
or foils without the written approval of RS Sailing will void this warranty.
5. Warranty claims for materials or equipment not manufactured by RS Sailing can be
made directly to the relevant manufacturer. RS Sailing warrants that these parts were
installed correctly and according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
6. Warranty claims shall be made to RS Sailing as soon as practicable and, in any event,
within 28 days upon discovery of a defect. No repairs under warranty are to be undertaken
without written approval of RS Sailing.
7. Upon approval of a warranty claim, RS Sailing may, at its expense, repair or replace the
component. In all cases, the replacement will be equal in value to the original component.
8. Due to the continuing evolution of the marine market, RS Sailing reserves the right to
change the design, material, or construction of its products without incurring any obligation
to incorporate such changes in products already built or in use.
A
Aft At the back
Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat
Astern Behind the boat
Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow
B
Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail
Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water
Batten A thin strip of wood/plastic inserted in the sail to keep it flat
Batten Key A key used to adjust the batten
Batten Pocket A pocket on the sail that holds the batten
Beam Width of the boat at the widest point of the side of the boat.
The phrase ‘wind on the beam’ means that the wind is coming from the side.
Bear away To turn downwind
Beat To sail a zig-zag course to make progress upwind
Beaufort Scale A measure of wind strength, from Force 1 to Force 12
Bilge Rail The moulded line that marks the transition from the side to the bottom of
the hull
Block A pulley used for sail control lines
Boom The spar at the bottom edge of sail
Boom Pad The pad that fits onto the boom
Bow The front of the boat
Bow Lifting Handle The handle at the front of the boat, used for lifting
Bowline A useful and reliable knot, with a loop in it
Bow Snubber The part of the trolley that the bow rests on
Builder’s Plate Plate that contains build information
Bung A stopper for the drain hole
7 - Glossary
Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for
navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course
Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water
Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy
Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction
C
Capsize To overturn
Capsize Recovery To right, or recover, the boat after a capsize
Catamaran A boat with two hulls
Centreboard The foil that sits below the hull to counteract the sideways push of the wind,
and to create forward motion
Centreboard Case The casing in the hull in which the centreboard sits
Centreline An imaginary line that runs through the centre of the hull, from the bow to
the stern
Chart datum Depths shown on a chart, at the lowest possible tide
Cleat A device to grip ropes and hold them in place – some grip automatically,
while others need the rope tying around them
Clew Lower corner of the sail, closest to the stern
Close hauled Sailing as close to the wind as you can; point of sailing to sail upwind
Cockpit The open area in the boat providing space for the `helm and the crew
Collision Regulations The ‘rules of the road’ to avoid collisions
Compass Rose The compass shown on a chart to aid navigation
Crew Helps the helmsman to sail the boat, and usually handles the jib sheets
Cutter A boat with two headsails or jibs
D
Dacron A brand of polyester sailcloth that is wrinkle-resistant and strong
Deck A floor-like surface occupying part of the hull
Deck Moulding A moulded deck
Downhaul Applies downwards tension to a sail
Downwind To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Drain Hole A hole in the hull from which trapped water can be drained
Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface
E
Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently
F
Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing
Foils The daggerboard and the rudder
Foot The bottom edge of a sail
Fore Towards the front of the boat
Forestay The wire line that runs from the front of the mast to the bow of the
hull, holding the mast in position
Furl To gather a sail into a compact roll and bind it against the mast
or forestay
G
Gennaker A large sail that is hoisted when sailing downwind
Gennaker Chute Webbing pocket in which the gennaker is stowed when not hoisted
Gennaker Pole The sprit that protrudes from the front of the hull, to which the tack of
the gennaker is attached
Gnav Bar Bar that sits between the mast and the boom, performing the
same function as a kicking strap
Gnav Control Line Line that applies and releases tension to the gnav
Gooseneck The ‘jaws’ of the boom that clip onto the mast
Gunwhale The top edge of the hull, that you sit on when leaning out to balance
the boat
Gybe To change tack by turning the stern of the boat through the wind.
H
Halyard The rope used to hoist sails
Halyard Bag Bag attached to the hull, in which the halyards can be stowed
Head The top corner of a sail
‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib
Heel A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways force of
the wind
Helm/Helmsman The person who steers the boat, or another name for the tiller
Hoist Block Block behind which the gennaker halyard is pulled when hoisting
the gennaker
Hull The hollow, lower-most part of the boat, floating partially submerged
and supporting the rest of the boat
I
‘Into the Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
Inversion A capsize where the boat turns upside down, or ‘turtles’
J
Jammer Another word for a cleat
Jib The small sail in front of the mast
Jib Sheet The rope used to control the jib
K
Kicking strap The rope system that is attached to the base of the mast and
the boom, helping to hold the boom down
Knot A measurement of speed, based on one minute of latitude
L
Launching To leave the slipway
Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west.
They help you measure position and distance on a chart.
Leech The back edge of the sail
Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the
wind is blowing
Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind
Leverage The result of using crew weight as a ‘lever’ to counteract heel
caused by the wind
Lie to A way of stopping the boat temporarily by easing sheets on
a close reach
Lifejacket Unlike a buoyancy aid, a lifejacket will keep a person fully afloat
with their head clear of the water
Longitude Imaginary lines running round the globe from north to south,
like segments of an orange. Used with lines of latitude to
measure position and distance
Lower Furling Unit The fitting at the bottom of the forestay that enables the jib
to be furled
Luff The front edge of the sail
M
Mainsail The largest sail on a boat
Mainsail Clew Slug The fitting that sits in the track on the boom, to which the clew of
the mainsail is attached
Mainsheet The rope used to control the mainsail
Mainsheet Bridle The rope runs across the transom of the boat, to which the
mainsheet is attached
Mainsheet Centre Block The main block, usually fixed to the cockpit floor, through
which the mainsheet passes
Man Overboard Recovery The act of recovering a ‘man overboard’ from the water
Mast The spar that the sails are hoisted up
Mast Foot The bottom of the mast
Mast Gate Fitting which closes across the front of the mast at deck level,
holding the mast in place
Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast
Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into
Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast
Meteorology The study of weather forecasting
Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object
Mylar A brand of strong, thin, polyester film used to make racing sails
N
National Sailing Federation Body that governs sailing in a nation. In the UK, this is the
Royal Yachting Association
Navigation To find a way from one point to the other
Neap Tide Tides with the smallest tidal change
O
‘Off the Wind’ To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Outboard Bracket Kit Bracket which enables an outboard engine to be attached
to the transom
Outboard Engin Small portable engine that attaches to the transom
Outhaul The control line that applies tension to the foot of the sail,
by pulling the sail along the boom
Outhaul Hook The fitting on the boom that hooks the eye at the back of
the sail, and to which the outhaul is attached
P
Painter The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed object
Pontoon A floating jetty to moor your boat to
Port The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
R
RS Dealer A third-party who sells the RS range
Reach Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat
Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds
Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base
Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to
trail behind a vehicle
Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in
position while rowing
Rowlock Holes The holes in the gunwhale into which the rowlocks fit
Rudder The foil that, when attached to the stern, controls the direction
of the boat
Rudder Blade The large, rigid, thin part of the rudder
Rudder Downhaul The control line that enables you to pull the rudder into place
Rudder Pintle The fitting on the transom onto which the rudder stock fits
Rudder Stock The top part of the rudder, usually including the tiller, into which the
rudder blade fits, and which then attaches to the rudder pintle
Run To ‘run with the wind’, or to sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
S
Safety-Boat Cover Support boats, usually RIBs, in case of emergency
Sail An area of material attached to the boat that uses the wind to
create forward motion
Sailmaker A manufacturer of sails
Sail Number The unique number allocated to a boat, displayed on the sail
when racing
Sail Pressure A sail has ‘pressure’ when it is working with the wind to create motion
Sailing Regatta An event that usually comprises of a number of sailing races
Shackle A metal fitting for attaching ropes to blocks, etc.
Shackle Key Small key used to undo tight shackles
Sheet A rope that controls a sail
Shroud The wires that are attached to the mast and the hull, holding
the mast up
Side Safety Line The line that runs along the side of the hull
Single Handed To sail a boat alone
Single-Line Reefing System An efficient method of reefing with one line
Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached
Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth
Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached
Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out
Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents
Starboard. The right-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
Stern The back of the boat
Stern Lifting Handles The handles at the stern, used for lifting the boat
Stopper Knot A form of knot used to prevent a rope from sliding through a
fitting, such as a pulley or a cleat
T
Tack a) To change direction by turning the bow of the boat through the wind
b) The bottom front corner of a sail
Tack Bar The bar at the bow of the hull, to which the tack of the jib is attached
Tack Line The rope that emerges from the front of the gennaker pole, to which
the tack of the gennaker is attached
Tender A small vessel, usually used to transport crew to a larger vessel
Tidal height The depth of water above chart datum
Tidal range The difference between the depth of water at low and high tide
Tidal stream The direction in which the tide is flowing
Tiller The stick attached to the rudder, used to steer the boat
Tiller Extension A pole attached to the tiller to extend its reach, usually used when hiking
Toe Straps The straps to tuck your feet under when you lean out to balance the boat.
Top Furling Unit Fitting at the top of the forestay which enables the jib to be furled
Towing Line A rope attached to the boat, used to connect to a towing vessel
Transit An imaginary line between two fixed objects, used to ensure that
you are staying on course
Transom The vertical surface at the back of the boat
Trim Keeping the boat level fore and aft
Trimaran A boat with three hulls
Trolley A wheeled structure, used to move the boat around on land
Trolley Supports The part of the trolley in direct contact with the hull
U
‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be
in motion
Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing
W
Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet
Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing
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