COMPONENTS LIST
1. COMPONENTS LIST
1
HARDWARE AND ROPE PACK
Mainsheet block
Mainsheet traveller
Mainsheet
Downhaul tail
Outhaul control line
Downhaul Control linc
Control line takeup elastic
QUANTITY
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
Control line joining ties
Vang purchase
Vang strop
Toestrap elastic
Daggerboard elastic
Main halyard tail
Main halyard
Vang cleat
16mm block
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
3
Plastic rings
(control lines)
40mm soft-attach
Harken block
16mm block with becket
(vang)
2
2
1
2
Traveller rope
Rope bobble
30mm block
Mainsheet spring
18 mm soft-attach
double block
16mm vang double block
Plastic clip (daggerboard)
5mm shackle (vang)
Plastic washer (mainsheet block)
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
Zip ties
Rudder downhaul
Rudder
Rudder stock
Tiller extension.
Dagger board
Boom
Top mast
Lower mast
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
GBR
GBR
GBR
GBR
GBR
GBR
Sail
Sail numbers
Document case
Owners’ Manual
Rigging Manual
1
8
1
1
1
2. Introduction
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS Aero and thank you for choosing an
RS product. We are condent that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing
in this truly excellent design.
The RS Aero is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic performance. This rigging
guide has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum enjoyment from your RS
Aero, in a safe manner. It contains details of the craft, the equipment supplied or tted,
its systems, and information on its safe operation and maintenance. Please read this
rigging guide carefully and be sure that you understand its contents before using your
3
RS Aero.
This rigging guide will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your
rst boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your
own safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before
assuming command of the craft. If you are unsure, RS, your RS dealer, or your national
sailing federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be able to advise
you of a local sailing school, or a competent instructor.
Please keep this rigging guide in a secure place and hand it over to the new
owner if you sell the boat.
Please also see Owners Manual for technical summary and Capsize recovery.
For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:
RS Sailing
Premier Way
Abbey Park
Romsey
Hants SO51 9DQ
Tel.: +44(0)1794 526760
Fax: +44(0)1794 278418
E-mail: www.info@rssailing.com
3. RS Aero Registration
We have introduced a new boat registration system for the Aero, which will be extremely
important to help the Association communicate with owners, develop the Class, create
strong events and take the Aero on to the next level.
RS Aero Boat Registration - how it works:
• It is free
• Owners go to the Association website, RSaerosailing.org – Boat Registration
• Enter your name & contact details, boat number, sailing club etc – Submit
• The Association emails back a pdf Registration Document (required for event entry
or for re-sale of the boat) and a password.
• When a boat is sold, the seller logs into the Boat Registration page on the site,
using the password – and enters new owner details
• The new owner is sent an updated Registration Document.
4
The data is held by the Aero Class Association. By doing this we will transform the future
strength of the Class and speed of growth.
Please play your part and ensure that the RS Aero registration is lled out fully and be
part of the RS Aero revolution.
4. Commissioning
5
Preparation
Your RS Aero comes complete with all the components necessary to take the boat sailing.
In order to commission it, you will need the following tools:
• Pliers or a shackle key
• Sharp knife
• Small at head screwdriver
• PVC electrician’s tape
It will take around 1 1/2 hours to prepare your Aero so make sure you allow plenty of time.
DO NOT use a knife or other sharp object to cut through packaging containing
parts – you may damage the contents!
Whilst your RS Aero has been carefully prepared, it is important that new owners should
check that shackles and knots are tight. This is especially important when the boat is new,
as travelling can loosen seemingly tight ttings and knots. It is also important to check
such items prior to sailing regularly.
Unpacking
Having unpacked your RS Aero, you should check that you have all of the items listed
below before throwing away any of the packing, as there may be some small items still
wrapped. Please see contents page.
Unpack your Aero and place on a suitable gunwhale supported trolley. Avoid point loading
the hull skins. Dispose of any packaging.
The Aero comes in a Tyvek production bag which is reuseable. It has padding on the deck
so you can stack boats together if needed.
If you are trailing stacked boats we would recommend you put covers over the white
production cover for protection as the Tyvek cover is quite delicate.
6
7
Rigging Guide
5. Hull
PLEASE FOLLOW ASSEMBLY GUIDE IN THE CORRECT ORDER
1 - 5 MAINSHEET BLOCK ASSEMBLY
8
1.
2.
Add the eyelet onto the ratchet base.
Compress the existing spring (as removed in step 1.1) using
cable ties then shackle the ratchet block onto the eyelet.
Make sure the plastic spring
washer goes back on the
right way up.
3.
Once the shackle is tightened,
cut the cable ties.
Take the new ratchet base, align the three pins with the holes in
the adapter plate, then push it down then forwards to lock into
place.
You should hear a click as the catch engages.
To remove, release the
catch on the block base
using the tool provided.
See appendix for instructions regarding tting a
swivel jammer upgrade.
6 VANG CLEAT
6.
• Add the vang cleat.
• Push and slide forward until it clicks.
7 TRAVELLER SYSTEM
9
Push this tab to
release
7.
• Use mainsheet traveller rope.
• Tie overhand knot in each end.
100mm
8 - 13 OUTHAUL SYSTEM
8.
STARBOARD SIDE
• Use outhaul rope (blue, white eck).
• Pass through hole from underneath gunwhale.
• Pass through rearmost cleat.
9.
10
Use rear cleat
10.
PORT SIDE
B
A
C
• Pass rope through front 20mm harken
block (A) on port organiser.
• Pass through 16mm single block (B)
• Pass through rear 20mm harken block
(C) going towards the port side of the
boat.
• Pass rope through front cleat.
• Pass rope through front hole in gunwhale.
Use front cleat
11
11.
PORT SIDE
• Pass rope through the control line ring at stern of boat.
• Pass forwards under gunwhale through barrels A and B.
• Pass through front bullseye (C) around to the starboard side of the boat.
A
C
B
12.
STARBOARD SIDE
• Pass rope through the control line ring at stern of boat.
• Pass forward under gunwhale through barrels A and B.
A
B
13.
• Tie the ends together as shown.
• Cut and burn the tails.
14 - 21 DOWNHAUL
14.
STARBOARD SIDE
• Use downhaul rope (red, white eck).
• Pass through forward hole from underneath
gunwhale.
12
• Pass through forward cleat.
15.
Use front cleat
• Pass rope through middle 20mm Harken
block on starboard organiser.
• Pass rope through blocks as
shown.
A
C
B
D
A
C
B
D
Middle block
Front
block
From starboard
side
16.
To port side
PORT SIDE
• Pass rope through rear cleat.
• Pass rope through rear hole in gunwhale.
Use rear cleat
13
17.
PORT SIDE
• Pass rope through the control line ring at rear of boat.
• Pass forward under gunwhale through barrels A and B.
• Pass through front bullseye (C) around to the starboard side of the boat.
A
C
B
18.
STARBOARD SIDE
• Pass rope through the control line ring at rear of boat.
• Pass forward under gunwhale through barrels A and B.
A
B
19.
• Tie the ends together as shown.
• Cut and burn the tails.
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elastic
20.
21 - 22 ELASTIC TAKE-UPS
21.
• Pass elastic through two
rear holes A and B.
• Attach the tapered end of the downhaul tail
onto the double block with a bowline.
• Tie an overhand knot in the other end of the
rope.
PORT SIDE
• Tie elastic to plastic rings.
22.
elastic
A
B
elastic
STARBOARD SIDE
• Pass elastic through two
rear holes A and B.
• Tie elastic to plastic rings.
A
B
15
23.
24.
DAGGERBOARD ELASTIC
• Pass elastic through front recess and tie
gure of eight in the end of the port organiser.
• Tie plastic hook on other end with a bowline.
You may need to use a slot
screwdriver to push the elastic
through.
MIDDLE TOESTRAP
• Thread webbing (A) through buckle as shown. It may
be quite tight.
• After going through the buckle, the webbing velcros
back on top of the toestrap.
A
16
Rigging Guide
6. Mast
PLEASE FOLLOW ASSEMBLY GUIDE IN THE CORRECT ORDER
17
1.
2. 3.
The thick section of the Main Halyard has
two distinctive ends. One end has the core
removed from the rope and is of reduced
diameter. This is the end that attaches to the
thin halyard tail. The thick end attaches to the
plastic bobble
• Select the bottom section to suit the size of sail you wish to use.
• Ensure that the sleeve and the inside of the tube are clean and free of debris.
Aero rigs are designed with a tight engineering tolerance on the sleeve.
Ensure the tubes are aligned and push together. (The rst part is often the
hardest due to misalignment). If the tubes are hard to push together spray with
maclube or a similar product.
Halyard
(thick end)
• Add plastic bobble to
halyard.
Halyard
(thin end)
Halyard tail
• Tie the thick and thin part of the main halyard
together with a double sheet bend.
4.
5.
18
• To keep things neat while stepping the mast you can add the
main halyard and tail to the lower cleat.
6.
MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO OVERHEAD POWER LINES
BE CAREFUL IN STRONG WINDS.
• Then step the mast in the boat.
MAKE SURE THE MAST STEP IS FULLY LOCATED.
• Add 40mm block to the dyneema loop at the base of the mast
using the 5mm shackle.
19
Rigging Guide
7. Boom
PLEASE FOLLOW ASSEMBLY GUIDE IN THE CORRECT ORDER
MAINSHEET BLOCKS
20
1.
2.
4.
You may need to use
a at head screwdriver
to push the dyneema
loop through the block
and around the toggle.
Allow the loop to go
around the toggle.
3.
5.
Allow the loop to go
around the toggle.
6.
7 - 15 VANG SYSTEM
7.
8.
21
• Cow hitch on single block.
• Cow hitch on single block with becket.
9.
10.
• Fold vang strop, leaving one half 200mm longer than the other.
200mm
11.
22
Cow hitch
A
200mm
B
12.
13.
B
• Thread B through 40mm block
B
• Tie B onto 30mm block.
14.
23
A
B
15.
16.
A
B
VANG CONTROL LINE
• Tie one end of the vang control line onto
the becket and thread through the blocks
as shown.
When pulled tight all blocks should touch
or strop on step 10 needs adjusting.
Before sailing hoist the sail and make nal
adjustments.
You may need to adjust it again after the
rope has stretched.
• E goes through the gooseneck on item 17.
D
C
A
E
D
C
A
B
B
17.
• Take the tail of the vang coming from
the single block and feed it through
the starboard slot on the gooseneck,
around the turning block and down the
mast.
18.
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E
A
• Feed the tail of the vang around
the rear block on the starboard
organiser (A) and through the vang
cleat (B).
• Tie a gure of eight in the tail.
B
19.
25
• Thread the outhaul through the port slot in
the gooseneck.
AT ALL TIMES MAKE SURE THERE IS A KNOT AT THE END
OF THE LINE TO PREVENT LOSING IT UP INSIDE THE
BOOM.
20.
21.
• Push boom to clip on. It will click into position.
To remove again tug sharply backwards.
MAINSHEET SYSTEM
• Tie a gure of eight in one end of the mainsheet.
• Feed the other end through the centre hole of
the 40mm block on the mainsheet traveller and
then thread through the blocks as shown.
E
D
B
C
• Tie a gure of eight in the other end of the mainsheet with just enough slack that the boom can go
to 90º.
E
B
CD
A
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Rigging Guide
8. Sails
PLEASE FOLLOW ASSEMBLY GUIDE IN THE CORRECT ORDER
1.
• Unroll sail.
• Add the clew boom strop over the rear end of the boom.
• Add outhaul rope through clew ring or strop.
27
2.
3.
9
Check there are no twists around the mast.
• Attach the main halyard to the sail.
Make sure battens have been tightened.
Make sure the boat is head to wind.
7 5
4.
• Hoist the main halyard.
5. 6.
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• Cleat the main halyard in the
cleat on the starboard side of
the top mast.
• Cleat the halyard tail in the
cleat on the front of the mast
and tidy into pocket on sail.
• Feed the main halyard tail
around the mushroom on the
mast.
8.7.
• Feed the downhaul through the eye
on the tack of the sail from starboard to
port and tie an overhand knot.
• The knot jams in the slot on the port
side of the gooseneck.
The downhaul must go inside the
tack strap.
Rigging Guide
29
9. Foils
TOOLS NEEDED: • Flat head screwdriver
PLEASE FOLLOW ASSEMBLY GUIDE IN THE CORRECT ORDER
1.
• Using a at head screwdriver, remove the bolt from
the rudder stock.
2.
• Add the rudder blade to the stock
and bolt in place.
30
It is important to make sure enough friction is
added.
3.
• Feed the rudder downhaul line through the stock as
shown and add 20mm block with bowline.
4.
• Add rudder downhaul tail.
5. 6.
• Add tiller extension.
31
• Attach rudder to boat.
7.
Push blue tab to release
Rudder blade can rotate fully.
8.
Cleat
When sailing, rudder downhaul tail goes to rear cleat.
Rigging Guide
32
10. Preparation and care
PLEASE FOLLOW ASSEMBLY GUIDE IN THE CORRECT ORDER
33
1.
2.
Sail numbers should be supplied with each sail.
• Cut along dotted lines to form the correct sail numbers.
The 9, 7 and 5 sails are all similar. Unroll your new sail. Stick the sail numbers
on sail, higher on the starboard side of the sail than the port, in the positions
marked by the faint pencil lines.
NUMBERS MUST BE PLACED HIGHER ON THE STARBOARD SIDE.
3.
230mm sail numbers
45mm 45mm 45mm
Leave a gap of 60mm between numbers and/or letters on the 7
and 9 sails, and a gap of 45mm on the 5 sail.
45mm
300mm sail numbers
60mm 60mm 60mm
75
+
60mm
9
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4.
There are also faint lines on the sail to show where to place the national
letters (although these are optional and not supplied as standard.)
• Batten key should be on clew of sail.
Check the inboard ends of the battens are positively
located in the inboard plastic end tting. To tension, turn
the key clockwise until the cloth becomes just tight. If it
is over tightened you will have trouble tacking the head
of the sail in light weather. Insufcient tension and the
sail will set up too at with wrinkles running down from
the head.
SAIL CARE
Wash salt off sails after use and dry. Roll from the
head. It is easier to fold the head in (as shown)
so the top of the battens coincide before starting
rolling. Store sail in its bag in dry conditions away
from sunlight. Although the sail is made from
a quality high denier fabric it is best to slightly
slacken the top 2 battens’ tension for long term
storage.
When using a new sail for the rst time, try to
avoid extreme conditions as high loads on new
sailcloth can diminish the racing life of the sail.
If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove it using a light detergent and warm water. DO NOT attempt to launder the sail yourself.A sail can be temporarily repaired using a
self-adhesive cloth tape, such as Dacron or Mylar. The sail should be returned to a sail maker
for a professional repair. Check for wear and tear, especially around the batten pockets, on a
regular basis.
Roll from 2nd Batten.
STACKING
1. Remove the vang cleat.
Press here and
slide aft.
35
2. Put all rigging still attached to the
boat in the mast step so it doesn’t
come between the boats.
3.
Either use the white production cover as this has
padding, or add padding in these areas.
4.
MAST BAG
Aero 9
lower mast
Aero 5 and 7
lower mast
The RS Aero is designed to be stacked.
Make sure the bows locate.
Do not stack more than 7 boats.
2.
Close lid
Place boom on top.
topmast
1.
Clip the bag shut
around the boom
3.
HOW TO REPLACE A DYNEEMA LOOP IN MAST OR BOOM.
1.
2.
There is no need to remove
the endcap from the mast or
boom.
TOP COVER
36
Main halyard
FOIL CARE
RS Aero Rudder blades are manufactured from epoxy glass and carbon bre and contain
closed cell foam to ensure buoyancy and limit potential water ingress.
Foils should be rinsed with fresh water after use.
If you are going to trail your boat frequently, you may wish to invest in an RS Sailing
padded rudder bag. This will protect your RS Aero from any damage caused by the foil.
SPAR CARE
The mast is made from carbon bre. Wash with fresh water as often as possible, both inside and out. Check all of the riveted ttings on a regular basis for any signs of corrosion
or wear.
FIXTURES AND FITTINGS
All of the xtures and ttings have been designed for a specic purpose in the boat. These
items may break when placed under any unnecessary load, or when used for a different
function to their intended purpose. To ensure optimum performance, wash the xtures and
ttings with fresh water regularly, checking shackles, bolts, etc. for tightness.
Rigging Guide
37
11. Breather and
drainage holes
PLEASE FOLLOW ASSEMBLY GUIDE IN THE CORRECT ORDER
Breather hole - DO NOT BLOCK
Drainage hole - DO NOT BLOCK
38
Drainage hole - DO NOT BLOCK
Rigging Guide
39
12. Optional ttings
PLEASE FOLLOW ASSEMBLY GUIDE IN THE CORRECT ORDER
40
MAINSHEET CLEATS (optional)
TOOLS REQUIRED:
• Drill
• 2.5mm dril bit
• Countersink
• Pozidrive screwdriver
1.
CONTENTS:
2 X mainsheet cleats
2 x thick cleat base
4 x screws
• Place the thicker base plate on the deck with it’s
undergrooves pointing inboard. It is positioned in
the gap in the non-skid. There is a wooden block
underneath.
2.
• Tie a piece of line to the mainsheet ratchet block
attachment eye and hold it across the cleat position.
Ensure that the base plate is at right angles to this
line.
3.
• Drill 2 holes using a 2.5mm drill bit.
• Use a countersunk bit to remove
a small amount of gelcoat from
around the 2.5mm holes.
4.
• Replace the thin red harken
cleat base plates with the slightly
thicker plates provided.
5.
• Squeeze some sealant into the holes, then screw
the cleats to the deck with the 2 inch 8 gauge pan-
head self-tappers provided.Check the screws have
not been overtightened and the cams move freely.
Wipe any excess sealant off with white spirit.
Make sure cleat opens outwards.
If overtightened the jaws may not close properly.
41
COMPASS BRACKET (optional)
1.
2.
• Feed the vang tail through the compass bracket
and tie a gure of eight in the end.
• Clip the compass bracket onto the button.
42
JC STRAP (optional)
Contents:
2.
1 x string
1 x elastic
1 x 30mm block
2 x plastic clip
1.
• Attach 30mm block to bow eye with
string.
• Feed the elastic through the block and tie a
plastic clip on each end with a bowline.
3.
• Run the two ends of the JC strap
around the outside of the mast (one to
port, one to starboard) and clip both
ends onto the single dyneema loop on
the boom.
The JC strap must pass outside of all other rigging.
WIND INDICATOR (optional)
Contents:
43
• There should already be a tting like this attached
to your topmast so this part is not required and can
be discarded.
• Clip the 2 parts of the wind indicator together
• Clip the wind indicator into the plastic tting on the
top mast.
RIGHTING LINES (optional)
1. Unscrew the rear most Plastic Barrel under the gunwale new the control line cleats.
2. Place the P clip on the Plastic barrel securing screw.
44
3. Ret the plastic barrel with the p clip pointing down.
4. Tie a gure of eight stopper knot in the end of the blue rope and thread it
through the P clip towards the bow.
5. Tie two more gure of eight knots 1/3 and 2/3 of the way down the blue rope.
6. Attach the blue rope to the plastic ring with a Knot on a Knot
7. Tie the Blue Elastic onto the plastic hook with a Knot on a Knot
8. Connect the hook onto the ring.
Do not over tighten the
screw when retting
45
9. Stretch the elastic forwards towards the bow.
10. Do not put the elastic through the forward barrel
11. Thread the elastic through the bow tting
12. Repeat the above process on the other side.
13. As you tie the elastic onto the 2nd hook,
Pull enough tension in the system to stop
the lines drooping down
Make sure there is enough tension in the
elastic to stop the lines from drooping down.
ADDING THE NEW MAINSHEET BASE
This retro kit allows you to remove the mainsheet ratchet and add a swivel base easily,
which can still be removed to stack boats together.
46
Contents:
1 x mainsheet cleat base and mounting plate
3 x countersunk screws
2 x cable ties
1 x release tool
If your boat looks like this, you already
have the adapter plate installed. Move
straight on to section 2 for how to put in
the swivel base.
Tools required:
• drill and 3mm drill bit
• pozidrive screwdriver
• silicone sealant and applicator gun
• wire cutters (to remove cable ties)
If your boat looks like this, see section 1
for how to convert it to accept the new
adapter plate.
1.
47
1. How to convert your Aero to accept the new mainsheet ratchet base
Remove the two screws then remove the
mainsheet block, eyelet and plastic base.
Remove the shackle, spring and eyelet from
the block.
2.
Add some sealant down the two existing holes left by the screws removed in step 1.1.
3.
Line up the holes in the new mainsheet ratchet
base adapter plate with the holes in the boat
and screw into place using the countersunk
screws provided.
Make sure the third hole in the base plate is
forward of the other two holes.
The screws must be tight
48
4.
Using the mounting bracket as a guide, drill the third hole using a 3mm drill bit.
Add sealant and screw down.
The screws must be tight
If you wish to use the new ratchet base, see step 1.5 - 1.7 for how to add it.
If you wish to use a swivel base, move on to section 2.4
5.
Add the eyelet onto the ratchet base.
6.
Compress the existing spring (as removed in step 1.1) using cable ties
then shackle the ratchet block onto the eyelet.
Make sure the plastic spring washer goes
back on the right way up.
Once the shackle is tightened, cut the cable
ties.
7.
49
Take the new ratchet base, align the three pins with the
holes in the adapter plate, then push it down then forwards
to lock into place.
You should hear a click as the catch engages.
2. How to add a swivel base
If you have just completed step 1.1-1.4 and you wish to add a swivel base,
move straight on to step 2.4
1.
Using the tool provided release the catch
on the mainsheet block base.
2.
Slide the mainsheet block base aft and then upwards to release.
3.
Remove the ratchet block and ttings from the base.
4.
Compress the existing spring (as removed in step 2.3 or 1.1)
using cable ties then attach the ratchet block onto the eyelet of
the new swivel base.
50
Make sure the plastic spring washer goes back
on the right way up.
Once the shackle is tightened, cut the cable ties.
5.
Take the new base with the mainsheet jammer on it,
align the three pins with the holes and push it down
then forwards to lock into place.
You should hear a click as the catch engages.
13. EXAMINATION REPORT
51
14. SAILING HINTS
14.1 Introduction
The RS Aero is a very rewarding boat to sail – to fully appreciate its handling,
you should be comfortable with the basic techniques of sailing small dinghy.
If you lack condence or feel that a refresher is in order, there are many approved sailing schools which use the RS aero. See www.rya.org.uk for more
information, or follow the link from www.rssailing.com to nd your local RS
Academy.
While we offer you a few hints to aid your enjoyment of your new boat, they
should not be considered as a substitute for an approved course in dinghy
sailing. In order to build your condence and familiarise yourself with your new
boat, we recommend that you choose a fairly quiet day with a steady wind for
your rst outing.
52
14.2 Launching
BEFORE LAUNCHING YOU MUST READ THE OWNERS’ MANUAL.
With the sails fully hoisted, attach the rudders to the transom. The boat should
be wheeled into the water, keeping it head to wind as far as possible. If you
have a crew, s/he can hold the boat head to wind whilst the trolley is stowed
ashore.
ENSURE THAT THE BUNG IS IN AND TIGHT!
The daggerboard case is tted with a soft bearing strip on each side to provide
enough friction to position the board while sailing, however we strongly advise
that the board is always connected to the boat using the plastic hook and elas-
tic provided, which is attached to the deck tting on the port side of the mast.
TOP TIP
If the tide is coming in as you launch, make sure that you leave the
trolley far enough up the beach that it will not be swept away.
14.3 Leaving the Beach
The easiest way to get going is for the helm to hop aboard while the crew
holds the boat. The helm should push gently on the tiller to lower some of the
rudder blade and dagger board. Then, s/he may instruct the crew to push the
bow off the wind and climb in.
The singlehanded sailor may choose to ask someone to help them to launch.
If launching alone, stand in the water alongside the gunwhale, holding the
boat head to wind. Lower part of rudder, and then push the bow off the wind
while hopping in.
As soon the water is deep enough, make sure that you lower the rudder blade
fully and daggerboard fully. You will know it is fully down if you feel a gentle
“thud” as the front face of the blade hits the front face of the stock. Pull the sail
in and you are away! Put the tail of the rudder downhaul in the cleat as per
item 8.8.
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For the best performance, you should ensure that you and your crew position
yourselves so that the boat is sailing through the water as at as possible.
Watch the trim (fore and aft) and the heel. The boat should always be sailed
as upright as possible.
Top Tip
As a general rule, sit further forward in lighter winds and further aft in stronger breezes.
14.4 Capsize
In the event of capsize the buoyant topmast will usually prevent total inversion.
The Aero rights so easily that it is often not possible to climb onto the centreboard before the boat rights leaving the helm in the water on the windward
side of the boat. The Aero is so light it is possible to man-handle the boat from
in the water somewhat like a sailboard. Position the boat on a beam reach and
climb aboard. Due to the light boat weight it is possible to capsize the boat
back on top of oneself in spite of the form stability. This can be counteracted
with a little mainsheet tension somewhat like water starting a sailboard. If you
nd it is still difcult to climb over the windward side, work your way aft holding
the gunwhale and climb in over the windward side of the stern.
14.5 Sailing Close-Hauled and Tacking
The Downhaul should be rmly tensioned for upwind sailing. You should hold
the tiller extension across your body, with a knuckles-up grip, enabling you to
use one or two ngers as a temporary cleat when adjusting the mainsheet.
To tack, push the tiller extension away from you and, as the boat starts to turn,
step across the boat. Once the boat has completed the turn, bring the tiller
back into the centre before sitting down on the new side, with the tiller exten-
sion behind your back. When you are settled, swap the mainsheet and the
tiller extension into the new hands.
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If the boat slows right down and feels lifeless when close-hauled, you could be
sailing too close to the wind. Ease the mainsheet and ‘bear off’ away from the
wind for a while to get the boat going again.
14.6 Sailing Downwind and Gybing
When sailing downwind, you could reduce the amount of downhaul on the
mainsail. To gybe, pull the tiller towards you and, as the boat starts to turn,
step across the boat facing forward. Once the boat has completed the turn,
pass the tiller back into the centre before sitting down on the new side, with
the tiller extension behind your back. Often, the Sail will not want to come
across until you have nearly completed the gybe, so it often pays to give the
mainsheet a tweak to encourage the mainsail over at the moment that you
want it to come! Once you are settled, swap the mainsheet and the tiller ex-
tension into the new hands.
15. WARRANTY
1. This warranty is given in addition to all rights given by statute or otherwise.
2. RS Sailing warrants all boats and component parts manufactured by it to be free
from defects in materials and workmanship under normal use and circumstances, and
the exercise of prudent seamanship, for a period of twelve (12) months from the date of
commissioning by the original owner. The owner must exercise routine maintenance and
care.
3. This warranty does not apply to defects in surface coatings caused by weathering
or normal use and wear.
4. This warranty does not apply if the boat has been altered, modied, or repaired
without prior written approval of RS Sailing. Any changes to the hull structure, deck
structure, rig or foils without the written approval of RS Sailing will void this warranty.
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5. Warranty claims for materials or equipment not manufactured by RS Sailing can
be made directly to the relevant manufacturer. RS Sailing warrants that these parts were
installed correctly and according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
6. Warranty claims shall be made to RS Sailing as soon as practicable and, in any
event, within 28 days upon discovery of a defect. No repairs under warranty are to be
undertaken without written approval of RS Sailing.
7. Upon approval of a warranty claim, RS Sailing may, at its expense, repair or replace the component. In all cases, the replacement will be equal in value to the original
component.
8. Due to the continuing evolution of the marine market, RS Sailing reserves the
right to change the design, material, or construction of its products without incurring any
obligation to incorporate such changes in products already built or in use.
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16. Three Essential Knots
Bowline
The bowline is a reliable knot used for tying a loop in rope. It is extremely
strong when under load, and unties easily once free of load. Some people use
the rhyme “the rabbit comes out of the hole, round the tree, and back down
the hole” as a way of remembering how to tie a bowline.
Take the end of the piece of rope
and assess how big a loop you
require
Make a small loop in the rope
Take the tail and lead it up through
the loop
Pass the tail around the standing
rope
Thread the tail back through the
loop, and tighten
Knot-on-knot
A ‘knot-on-knot’ is useful for tying the end of a rope to a sail or a fitting, and is
particularly reliable due to the manner in which the rope binds upon itself.
Tie a single overhand knot in the
end of the rope. Feed the rope
through the sail or the fitting, and
tie another overhand knot in the
rope.
Pull the rope tight so that the rope
binds on the original overhand
knot.
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Figure-of-Eight
The ‘figure-of-eight’ knot is used as a stopper knot, preventing ropes from
slipping through fittings. Like the bowline, the
‘figure-of-eight’ knot unties easily once free of
load.
Make a loop in the end of the rope
Lead the tail underneath the
standing end of the rope
Lead the tail of the rope back
through the loop, and tighten
A
Aft At the back
Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat
Astern Behind the boat
Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow
B
Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail
Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water
Batten A thin strip of wood/plastic inserted in the sail to keep it flat
Batten Key A key used to adjust the batten
Batten Pocket A pocket on the sail that holds the batten
Beam Width of the boat at the widest point of the side of the boat.
The phrase ‘wind on the beam’ means that the wind is coming from the side.
Bear away To turn downwind
Beat To sail a zig-zag course to make progress upwind
Beaufort Scale A measure of wind strength, from Force 1 to Force 12
Bilge Rail The moulded line that marks the transition from the side to the bottom of
the hull
Block A pulley used for sail control lines
Boom The spar at the bottom edge of sail
Boom Pad The pad that fits onto the boom
Bow The front of the boat
Bow Lifting Handle The handle at the front of the boat, used for lifting
Bowline A useful and reliable knot, with a loop in it
Bow Snubber The part of the trolley that the bow rests on
Builder’s Plate Plate that contains build information
Bung A stopper for the drain hole
18. Glossary
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Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for
navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course
Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water
Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy
Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction
C
Capsize To overturn
Capsize Recovery To right, or recover, the boat after a capsize
Catamaran A boat with two hulls
Centreboard The foil that sits below the hull to counteract the sideways push of the wind,
and to create forward motion
Centreboard Case The casing in the hull in which the centreboard sits
Centreline An imaginary line that runs through the centre of the hull, from the bow to
the stern
Chart datum Depths shown on a chart, at the lowest possible tide
Cleat A device to grip ropes and hold them in place – some grip automatically,
while others need the rope tying around them
Clew Lower corner of the sail, closest to the stern
Close hauled Sailing as close to the wind as you can; point of sailing to sail upwind
Cockpit The open area in the boat providing space for the `helm and the crew
Collision Regulations The ‘rules of the road’ to avoid collisions
Compass Rose The compass shown on a chart to aid navigation
Crew Helps the helmsman to sail the boat, and usually handles the jib sheets
Cutter A boat with two headsails or jibs
D
Dacron A brand of polyester sailcloth that is wrinkle-resistant and strong
Deck A floor-like surface occupying part of the hull
Deck Moulding A moulded deck
Downhaul Applies downwards tension to a sail
Downwind To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Drain Hole A hole in the hull from which trapped water can be drained
Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface
E
Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently
F
Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing
Foils The daggerboard and the rudder
Foot The bottom edge of a sail
Fore Towards the front of the boat
Forestay The wire line that runs from the front of the mast to the bow of the
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hull, holding the mast in position
Furl To gather a sail into a compact roll and bind it against the mast
or forestay
G
Gennaker A large sail that is hoisted when sailing downwind
Gennaker Chute Webbing pocket in which the gennaker is stowed when not hoisted
Gennaker Pole The sprit that protrudes from the front of the hull, to which the tack of
the gennaker is attached
Gnav Bar Bar that sits between the mast and the boom, performing the
same function as a kicking strap
Gnav Control Line Line that applies and releases tension to the gnav
Gooseneck The ‘jaws’ of the boom that clip onto the mast
Gunwhale The top edge of the hull, that you sit on when leaning out to balance
the boat
Gybe To change tack by turning the stern of the boat through the wind.
H
Halyard The rope used to hoist sails
Halyard Bag Bag attached to the hull, in which the halyards can be stowed
Head The top corner of a sail
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‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib
Heel A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways force of
the wind
Helm/Helmsman The person who steers the boat, or another name for the tiller
Hoist Block Block behind which the gennaker halyard is pulled when hoisting
the gennaker
Hull The hollow, lower-most part of the boat, floating partially submerged
and supporting the rest of the boat
I
‘Into the Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
Inversion A capsize where the boat turns upside down, or ‘turtles’
J
Jammer Another word for a cleat
Jib The small sail in front of the mast
Jib Sheet The rope used to control the jib
K
Kicking strap The rope system that is attached to the base of the mast and
the boom, helping to hold the boom down
Knot A measurement of speed, based on one minute of latitude
L
Launching To leave the slipway
Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west.
They help you measure position and distance on a chart.
Leech The back edge of the sail
Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the
wind is blowing
Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind
Leverage The result of using crew weight as a ‘lever’ to counteract heel
caused by the wind
Lie to A way of stopping the boat temporarily by easing sheets on
a close reach
Lifejacket Unlike a buoyancy aid, a lifejacket will keep a person fully afloat
with their head clear of the water
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Longitude Imaginary lines running round the globe from north to south,
like segments of an orange. Used with lines of latitude to
measure position and distance
Lower Furling Unit The fitting at the bottom of the forestay that enables the jib
to be furled
Luff The front edge of the sail
M
Mainsail The largest sail on a boat
Mainsail Clew Slug The fitting that sits in the track on the boom, to which the clew of
the mainsail is attached
Mainsheet The rope used to control the mainsail
Mainsheet Bridle The rope runs across the transom of the boat, to which the
mainsheet is attached
Mainsheet Centre Block The main block, usually fixed to the cockpit floor, through
which the mainsheet passes
Man Overboard Recovery The act of recovering a ‘man overboard’ from the water
Mast The spar that the sails are hoisted up
Mast Foot The bottom of the mast
Mast Gate Fitting which closes across the front of the mast at deck level,
holding the mast in place
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Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast
Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into
Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast
Meteorology The study of weather forecasting
Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object
Mylar A brand of strong, thin, polyester film used to make racing sails
N
National Sailing Federation Body that governs sailing in a nation. In the UK, this is the
Royal Yachting Association
Navigation To find a way from one point to the other
Neap Tide Tides with the smallest tidal change
O
‘Off the Wind’ To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Outboard Bracket Kit Bracket which enables an outboard engine to be attached
to the transom
Outboard Engin Small portable engine that attaches to the transom
Outhaul The control line that applies tension to the foot of the sail,
by pulling the sail along the boom
Outhaul Hook The fitting on the boom that hooks the eye at the back of
the sail, and to which the outhaul is attached
P
Painter The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed object
Pontoon A floating jetty to moor your boat to
Port The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
R
RS Dealer A third-party who sells the RS range
Reach Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat
Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds
Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base
Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to
trail behind a vehicle
Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in
position while rowing
Rowlock Holes The holes in the gunwhale into which the rowlocks fit
Rudder The foil that, when attached to the stern, controls the direction
of the boat
Rudder Blade The large, rigid, thin part of the rudder
Rudder Downhaul The control line that enables you to pull the rudder into place
Rudder Pintle The fitting on the transom onto which the rudder stock fits
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Rudder Stock The top part of the rudder, usually including the tiller, into which the
rudder blade fits, and which then attaches to the rudder pintle
Run To ‘run with the wind’, or to sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
S
Safety-Boat Cover Support boats, usually RIBs, in case of emergency
Sail An area of material attached to the boat that uses the wind to
create forward motion
Sailmaker A manufacturer of sails
Sail Number The unique number allocated to a boat, displayed on the sail
when racing
Sail Pressure A sail has ‘pressure’ when it is working with the wind to create motion
Sailing Regatta An event that usually comprises of a number of sailing races
Shackle A metal fitting for attaching ropes to blocks, etc.
Shackle Key Small key used to undo tight shackles
Sheet A rope that controls a sail
Shroud The wires that are attached to the mast and the hull, holding
the mast up
Side Safety Line The line that runs along the side of the hull
Single Handed To sail a boat alone
Single-Line Reefing System An efficient method of reefing with one line
Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached
Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth
Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached
Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out
Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents
Starboard. The right-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
Stern The back of the boat
Stern Lifting Handles The handles at the stern, used for lifting the boat
Stopper Knot A form of knot used to prevent a rope from sliding through a
fitting, such as a pulley or a cleat
T
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Tack a) To change direction by turning the bow of the boat through the wind
b) The bottom front corner of a sail
Tack Bar The bar at the bow of the hull, to which the tack of the jib is attached
Tack Line The rope that emerges from the front of the gennaker pole, to which
the tack of the gennaker is attached
Tender A small vessel, usually used to transport crew to a larger vessel
Tidal height The depth of water above chart datum
Tidal range The difference between the depth of water at low and high tide
Tidal stream The direction in which the tide is flowing
Tiller The stick attached to the rudder, used to steer the boat
Tiller Extension A pole attached to the tiller to extend its reach, usually used when hiking
Toe Straps The straps to tuck your feet under when you lean out to balance the boat.
Top Furling Unit Fitting at the top of the forestay which enables the jib to be furled
Towing Line A rope attached to the boat, used to connect to a towing vessel
Transit An imaginary line between two fixed objects, used to ensure that
you are staying on course
Transom The vertical surface at the back of the boat
Trim Keeping the boat level fore and aft
Trimaran A boat with three hulls
Trolley A wheeled structure, used to move the boat around on land
Trolley Supports The part of the trolley in direct contact with the hull
U
‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be
in motion
Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing
W
Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet
Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing
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