Page 1
Rigging Manual V7
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
Page 2
Contents
1 - Introduction ..........................................................................................1
2 - Specication ........................................................................................ 2
3 - Components ......................................................................................... 3 - 4
3.1 - Customer pack .....................................................................................3
3.2 - Rope pack (regular) ............................................................................. 4
3.3 - Rope pack (race) ................................................................................. 4
4 - Initial Commissioning ........................................................................ 5 - 51
4.1 - Stanchions and guard rails .................................................................. 6 - 8
4.2 - Adding the spinnaker pole ................................................................... 9 - 10
4.3 - Asymmetric spinnaker tack line ........................................................... 11
4.4 - Asymmetric spinnaker launch line ....................................................... 12
4.5 - Adding the hoop ................................................................................... 13
4.6.1 - Dressing the mast - Lowers ............................................................... 14
4.6.2 - Dressing the mast - Spreaders .......................................................... 15 - 16
4.6.3 - Dressing the mast - Forestay............................................................. 16
4.6.4 - Dressing the mast - Backstay ............................................................ 17
4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards ............................................................ 18 - 22
4.7.1 - Stepping the mast .............................................................................. 23 - 26
4.7.2 - Stepping the mast with the Keel Up ................................................... 27
4.8 - Rough rig setting ................................................................................... 28 - 31
4.9 - Adding the boom .................................................................................... 32
4.10 - Vang .................................................................................................... 33 - 34
4.11 - Mainsheet ............................................................................................ 35
4.12 - Main halyard purchase system ............................................................ 36
4.13 - Cunningham ......................................................................................... 37 - 38
4.14 - Jib halyard purchase system ................................................................ 39
4.15 - Halyard Elastic Take Up ........................................................................ 40
4.15 - Jib tack line ........................................................................................... 41
4.16 - Jib sheet ............................................................................................... 42 - 43
4.17 - Asymmetric spinnaker sheet ................................................................. 44
4.18 - Spinnaker bag ...................................................................................... 45
4.19 - Rudder .................................................................................................. 46
4.20 - Preparing the mainsail .......................................................................... 47
4.21 - Battens .................................................................................................. 47
4.22 - Sail care ................................................................................................ 48
4.23 - Adding the Torqeedo ............................................................................. 49 - 54
5 - Using the boat ........................................................................................ 55 - 69
5.1 - Lowering the keel .................................................................................... 56
5.2 - Raising the keel ...................................................................................... 57
5.3 - Hoisting the mainsail .............................................................................. 58 - 59
5.4 - Outhaul ................................................................................................... 60
5.5 - Hoisting the jib ........................................................................................ 61
5.6 - Motor ....................................................................................................... 62 - 64
5.7 - Weed cutter ............................................................................................ 65
5.8 - Storing sail bags ..................................................................................... 66
5.9 - Fenders ................................................................................................... 66
5.10 - Lifting the boat ...................................................................................... 67
5.11 - Removing / Adding the keel................................................................... 68
5.12 - Bilge pump ............................................................................................ 69
5.13 - Mooring the boat .................................................................................. 69
5.14 - Antifouling ............................................................................................. 69
6 - Knots ....................................................................................................... 70 - 71
7 - Glossary
.................................................................................................. 72 - 80
Page 3
1 - Introduction
1. Introduction
Congratulations on the purchase of your new RS 21, and thank you for choosing an
RS product. We are condent that you will have many hours of great sailing and racing
in this truly excellent design. The RS 21 is an exciting boat to sail and offers fantastic
performance. This manual has been compiled to help you to gain the maximum
enjoyment from your RS 21, in a safe manner. It contains details of the craft, the
equipment supplied or tted, its systems, and information on its safe operation and
maintenance. Please read this manual carefully and be sure that you understand its
contents before using your RS 21.
This manual will not instruct you in boating safety or seamanship. If this is your rst
boat, or if you are changing to a type of craft that you are not familiar with, for your own
safety and comfort, please ensure that you have adequate experience before assuming
command of the craft. If you are unsure, RS, your RS Dealer, or your national sailing
federation – for example, the Royal Yachting Association – will be able to advise you of a
local sailing school, or a competent instructor.
1
Please keep this manual in a secure place and hand it over to the new owner if
you sell the boat.
For further information, spares, and accessories, please contact:
RS Sailing
Premier Way
Abbey Park
Romsey
Hampshire SO51 9DQ
Tel: +44 (0)1794 526760
Email: info@RSsailing.com
For details of your local RS Dealer, please visit www.RSsailing.com
Page 4
2 - Specication
Designer Richards / Whitehouse / RS Sailing
Length 6.34m
Beam 2.2m
Draught 1.38m
Displacement 650kg
Hull construction Eco-friendly composite
Keel Lifting - with bulb
Rudder Removeable - composite
Mainsail area - Race 16.2m
Jib are - Race 8.4m
Gennaker area - Race 40m
Mainsail area - Club 16.2m
Jib area - Club 8.4m
Gennaker area - Club 35m
Spinnaker area - Club 30m
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
2
Mast One piece carbon composite
Shrouds and froestay Stainless steel wire
Halyards - Main, jib, gennaker Dyneema / polyester
Boom Aluminium alloy
Bowsprit Carbon composite
Page 5
3
3.1 - Components - Customer Pack
Part
40mm block with becket
(kicker)
40mm block with ddle
(kicker)
40mm block with
ddle/swivel/xed cam
(jib/main halyard tackle)
45mm wire block
(kicker)
30mm block with becket
(main/jib halyard hoist)
30mm single swivel block
(cunningham/vang)
40mm strap block
(mainsheet)
Quantity
1
1
2
1
2
4
2
60mm ratchet block
(mainsheet/kite sheets)
jib clew blocks
20mm block with becket
(Torqeedo)
40mm single block (strap)
(launch line/kicker/mainsheet)
30mm back to back blocks
(backstay)
Plastic bobble
Key shackle
Keel hoist shackle
Shackle (vang)
2
2
1
6
1
5
1
1
1
Snap shackle
(jib halyard, spinnaker sheet)
Rudder pin
Velcro strap
(shrouds adjusters)
Velcro strap
(Keel)
3
1
2
1
Page 6
3.2 - Components - Rope Pack (Regular)
4
7 8
2
1
10
11
9
21
12
22
4 5 6
3
13
14
23
15
16
17
18
19
20
1
Torqeedo Block tie
2
Torqeedo Uphaul
3
Backstay Part 2
4
Backstay Part 3
5
Backstay Control Line
6
Stanchion Back Rest ties
7
Main Halyard
8
Jib Halyard
9
Spinnaker Halyard
10
Vang Control
11
Vang Purchase
12
Halyard Tension (Shockcord)
13
Jib Tension
14
Jib Cunningham Part 2
15
Jib Cunningham Part 1
16
Cunningham
17
Cunningham Tail
18
Main Halyard Purchase
19
Launch Line
20
Tack Line
21
Mainsheet
22
Jib Sheet
23
Spinnaker Sheet
7 8
3.3 - Components - Rope Pack (Race)
2 3 4 5 6
1
15
14
13
11
10
9
21
12
22
23
16
17
18
19
20
1
Torqeedo Block tie
2
Torqeedo Uphaul
3
Backstay Part 2
4
Backstay Part 3
5
Backstay Control Line
6
Stanchion Back Rest ties
7
Main Halyard
8
Jib Halyard
9
Spinnaker Halyard
10
Vang Control
11
Vang Purchase
12
Halyard Tension (Shockcord)
13
Jib Tension
14
Jib Cunningham Part 2
15
Jib Cunningham Part 1
16
Cunningham
17
Cunningham Tail
18
Main Halyard Purchase
19
Launch Line
20
Tack Line
21
Mainsheet
22
Jib Sheet
23
Spinnaker Sheet
Page 7
Rigging Manual
4. Initial Commissioning
5
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
Page 8
4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails
a)
Locate the following items:
4 x Stanchions 2 x Guard rails 4 x Guard rail ties
6
b)
Remove the retaining screws from
each of the four stanchion bases.
c)
Add the 4 stanchions and
replace the screws.
d)
Note: The guard rail ties differ for the regular and race versions.
Standard spec has no splice.
Race spec has spliced loop.
Not the adjustable end.
Page 9
4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails
7
e)
f)
Attach the guard rail tie onto the D-ring at each end of the guard rail.
Standard spec. Race spec.
Knot #1
Pass the other ends of the guard rail ties through the hole in the top of the stanchions
(in a forward direction for the front stanchions and an aft direction for the aft
stanchions).
Knot #6
g)
Standard spec.
Attach the loose ends of the guard rail ties to the eyes on the gunwhale.
For the standard spec use knot #1.
Knot #1
Knot #1
Page 10
4.1 - Stanchions and Guard Rails
8
h)
Race spec.
Remove one screw from the deck eye.
Rotate the deck eye to allow you
to slip the loop over it.
Rotate the deck eye back into
place and replace the screw.
Pull to adjust
Page 11
a)
9
4.2 - Adding the Spinnaker Pole
The spinnaker pole may already be attached to your boat.
If it is already attached you can move straight on to section 4.3.
Locate the spinnaker tack line, launch line and 40mm block in the packs.
b)
c)
Tack line Launch line 40mm block
Tie knot #3 approximately 250mm from one end of the tack line.
250mm
The front end of the pole can be identied by the small hole in the end cap (the aft
end has a larger hole).
Pass the other of the tack line in through the hole in the front end cap of the pole,
through the pole and out the hole at the aft end.
Page 12
d)
e)
10
4.2 - Adding the Spinnaker Pole
Pass the aft end of the pole in through the
opening at the bow of the boat (You will
need to feed the tack line in rst).
Continue to push the pole into the boat, making sure it passes
underneath the webbing strap (feeding the tack line through rst).
f)
Shackle the 40mm block to the metal hoop on the front
of the mast step.
Continue to add the tack line as shown on the following page.
Page 13
11
B
C
A
B
C
A
4.3 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Tack Line
Knot #2
Knot #3
Page 14
4.4 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Launch Line
a)
Add the launch line as shown.
12
A
A
Knot #3
B
B
C
C
Knot #2
Page 15
a)
13
4.5 - Adding the Hoop
Your boat may arrive with or without the hoop attached.
If the hoop is already attached move straight on to section 4.6.
There are 3 screws on each side of the centre console which hold the
hoop in place. Remove all 6 screws.
b)
Fit the hoop into place and replace the screws.
Page 16
4.6.1 - Dressing the Mast - Lowers
a)
Remove the bottle screw from the lowers.
Thread the wires through the hole in the spreader bracket.
b)
14
c)
d)
Replace the bottle screw.
Tighten until the wire just appears on the inside of the bottle screw.
Add the lower part of the bottle screw (fork toggle).
Tighten until it just shows on the inside of the bottle screw.
Page 17
a)
15
4.6.2 - Dressing the Mast - Spreaders
To complete this section you will need:
• Spreaders x 2
• Shrouds x 2
• Forestay
• Backstay
• Backstay icker and 3 x machine screws
• Main halyard
• Jib halyard
• Spinnaker halyard
Fit the two shrouds to the mast.
b)
Fit the spreaders to the mast.
Page 18
4.6.2 - Dressing the Mast - Spreaders
c)
Remove the screw and the front face of the spreader tip.
Thread the shroud wire into the gap and replace the front face of the spreader tip
and the screw.
16
Repeat for the other shroud and spreader.
4.6.3 - Dressing the Mast - Forestay
a)
Attach the forestay to the mast with the T-terminal.
The bottle screw has been set to the base setting for the standard amount of
mast rake. Do not adjust it at this stage.
Page 19
4.6.4 - Dressing the Mast - Backstay
a)
Fit backstay icker.
b)
Add the block and line to the end of the backstay icker.
The length of this line is important.
17
Make sure that it is 150mm.
c)
Attach the backstay through the icker block and terminate it
on the pin at the mast head tting.
150mm
Page 20
4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards
Note: There are mouse lines for the halyards already running through the mast.
18
a)
b)
Locate the following items:
Main halyard Main halyard shackle Plastic bobble x 2
The main halyard is composed of two lines, a thicker red rope with a loop and
a thinner line attached to it.
mouse line
Tie end of the thinner halyard line to the mouse line which
emerges from the mast head using knot #7.
c)
Pull on the other end of the mouse line (which emerges from the port side of the mast,
near the mast foot).
Page 21
4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards
19
d)
Add the main halyard shackle to the other
end of the main halyard (the end emerging
from the top of the mast.)
Once the mouse line has been pulled fully
through the mast and the thin halyard line
emerges from the hole in the mast, stop pulling
the line through and secure both ends of the
halyard near the mast foot to prevent them
from being lost inside the mast.
f)
Locate the following items:
e)
Untie the mouse line, add the plastic
bobble on the end of the rope and
tie knot #4 to stop the bobble from
coming off.
Jib halyard Snap shackle Plastic bobble
g)
Fitting the jib halyard is a similar process to the main halyard. The mouse line for the jib
halyard emerges from the front of the mast about 3/4 of the way towards the top, and
from a hole in the port side of the mast, just above the gooseneck.
mouse line
Knot #7
Page 22
4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards
h)
Pull the mouse line through until the jib halyard emerges from the mast. Untie the
mouse line, add the plastic bobble on the end of the main halyard and tie knot #4 to
stop the bobble from coming off.
20
i)
Add a plastic bobble and snap shackle to the other end
of the jib halyard (the end emerging from top of the
mast).
Remember to secure both ends at the bottom
of the mast once the halyard is tted.
Page 23
4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards
21
j)
k)
Locate the following items in the rigging pack.
Spinnaker halyard Snap shackle
Fitting the spinnaker halyard is a similar process to the main and jib halyards, except
the spinnaker halyard is only composed of a single piece of rope.
mouse line
Knot #7
The mouse line for the spinnaker halyard emerges
from the front of the mast at the mast head and from a
sheave on the aft side of the mast near the foot.
l)
Check the ipop cleat just above where the spinnaker halyard emerges from the mast.
If the sheave is in the top position you will need to punch out the centre pin and replace
the sheave in the bottom position. If the sheave is already in the bottom position then you
can skip this stage.
Page 24
4.6.5 - Dressing the Mast - Halyards
22
m)
Pass the end of the spinnaker halyard around the sheave and through the cleat as
shown, and tie knot #3 in the tail.
Remember to secure the other end of the spinnaker halyard near the base of the mast.
n)
If you are using the club spinnaker, lead
the other end of the halyard back down from
the head of the mast and pass it through the
metal casting on the front face of the mast
(approximately 75mm from the mast head).
If you are using the race spinnaker move
straight on to the next step.
o)
Add the snap shackle to the other end of the spinnaker
halyard (the end emerging from top of the mast).
Remember to secure both ends at the bottom
of the mast once the halyard is tted.
Page 25
4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast
BEFORE STEPPING THE MAST, CHECK THAT YOU ARE
NOT IN THE VICINITY OF OVERHEAD POWER CABLES
REMEMBER
Check that both ends of the main halyard, jib halyard, and gennaker halyard are
tied off at the bottom end of the mast so that they are within easy reach when
the mast is stepped.
A minimum of 2 people are needed to step the mast.
Note:
23
It is easiest to step the mast with the keel down so you can lay the mast centrally in
the boat.
If you need to step the mast with the keel up you will nd instructions in section 4.7.2.
a)
Lay the dressed mast on the boat with the heel just in front of the mast step.
Page 26
b)
24
4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast
Using some spare line, tie the spinnaker halyard onto
the bow stem tting.
This will act as a temporary forestay.
c)
With the tallest person at the back, lift the
mast up and move it backwards.
The back of the mast should be lifted above the mainsheet hoop. The person at the front
of the mast should attach the heel of the mast to the mast step with the pin and ring.
Page 27
d)
25
4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast
Loosely attach the lowers.
e)
Towards bow
Walk the mast upright.
Pull the spinnaker halyard tight at the
cleat to act as a temporary forestay.
Page 28
26
4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast
f)
Attach the forestay and set to base
setting for mast rake.
You can now remove the spinnaker
halyard from the mast stem tting and
attach it near the base of the mast.
g)
Attach the shrouds.
Take up the tension but don’t make them tight yet.
It is very important that you don’t tighten
the shrouds yet.
Towards bow
Page 29
4.7.1 - Stepping the Mast With the Keel Up
To step the mast with the keel up:
• Lay the mast in the boat slightly off to one side with the heel at the mast step.
• Attach both of the lowers and the one shroud on the same side of the boat as the mast.
• Pick the mast up above the keel.
• Attach the other shroud.
• Fit the mast foot to the mast step with the pin.
• Walk the mast upright.
27
Page 30
4.8 - Rough Rig Setting
To complete this section you will need a long tape measure and an adjustable spanner.
a)
Use the jib halyard to make sure the mast is vertical. Take it from
gunwhale to gunwhale and adjust shrouds as required.
28
b)
Sight up the track to see how straight the mast is.
Adjust the lowers to move the bottom section.
Page 31
4.8 - Rough Rig Setting
29
c) Add backstay.
A
Race
Regular
Overhand knot
forming a loop
A
Hitch
A
1
4
B
2
Knot #1
1
B
B
2
3
3
Overhand knot
forming a loop
Hitch
Regular
Race
Page 32
4.8 - Rough Rig Setting
d)
Attach one end of your tape measure to the main halyard and hoist it to
the top of the mast, keeping the other end in your hand.
e)
Take the end of the spinnaker halyard in youir other hand and lead it aft to the top
of the transom and pull it tight. Using the spinnaker halyard as a guide to keep the
tape measure straight, measure the distance from the top of the mast to the top
back edge of the transom (above the rudder gudgeon).
Pull on the backstay.
You should be aiming to set the mast rake so that this distance is 9550mm.
30
9550 mm
Measure to this point.
Page 33
4.8 - Rough Rig Setting
f)
Using a rig tension gauge, wind down the cap
shrouds and lowers in equilibrium until they reach
the numbers shown on this table.
31
Wind Speed
(Knots)
0 - 10 20 16
10 - 18 22 22
18+ 16 26
g)
Once you have reached the base settings, add
the velcro shroud straps between the shroud and
lower bottle screws to prevent them from working
loose.
Caps Lowers
Tape all split pins / rings.
Page 34
a)
32
4.9 - Adding the Boom
Add the boom using the clevis pin and split pin.
Note that a there is a at section on the head of the clevis pin which
means it can only t one way round and cannot rotate once tted.
Page 35
4.10 - Vang
33
a)
45mm block
b)
Locate the following items in the rigging pack:
Vang
purchase
Vang control
race version
(spliced ends)
regular
version
Shackle
40mm block
30mm block
Double block
Locate the black vang purchase line and attach it to one of the shackle from one of the
40mm blocks using knot #6, leaving one end 140mm longer than the other.
140mm
Single block
with becket
c) d)
Add the 45mm block to the
boom.
Pass the longer end of the black rope
through the block on the boom and attach it
to the shackle with knot #1, or by passing
the shackle through the spliced loop (race
version).
Attach the shackle onto the 40mm block.
Page 36
4.10 - Vang
34
e)
Pass the shorter end of the black rope through the
block which you added in step d and shackle it onto
the double block.
f)
Shackle the black rope, double
block and 30mm block onto the
mast as shown.
Regular version Race version
g)
Locate the pink vang rope in the pack.
Tie one end of it to the becket on the double block
(attached to the mast) then thread the rope through
the blocks as shown.
Tie knot #3 in the tail.
40mm block
30mm block
Page 37
4.11 - Mainsheet
35
a)
b)
Locate the mainsheet in the rope pack.
Thread the mainsheet through
the 40mm blocks on the boom
and hoop as shown.
c)
Pass the tails through the ratchet blocks as shown.
d)
Pass one end of the mainsheet through the centre console.
You can open the hatch in the side to
help you pass the rope through.
e)
Tie the ends together as shown
using whipping twine.
Cut and burn the tails.
Page 38
4.12 - Main Halyard Purchase System
36
a)
Locate the main halyard purchase blocks
and shackles in the hardware pack.
Note:
You may need to add the
shackle to the block.
b)
Shackle the double block with cleat onto
the aft eye on the port side of the mast.
c)
Locate the block with snap shackle. Tie one end of
the main halyard purchase rope to the becket on
the block, then thread the other end through the
blocks as shown.
Page 39
4.13 - Cunningham
37
a)
b)
Locate the following items in the customer packs.
30mm block
(bottom)
Shackle the bottom block onto the middle metal
eye on the port side of the mast step.
30mm strap block
(top)
Cunningham Cunningham tail
c)
Tie one end of the cunningham control line to the
block on the mast step with knot #2 then it through
the blocks, fairlead and cleat as shown.
Tie knot #3 in the tail.
Page 40
d)
38
4.13 - Cunningham
Tie the cunningham tail onto the top block (30mm strap
block) with knot #1.
e)
To use the downhaul, pass the downhaul tail through the cringle on the tack of
the sail and tie it off on the hole in the gooseneck tting.
Page 41
4.14 - Jib Halyard Purchase System
39
a)
Locate the jib halyard purchase line
and blocks.
Note:
You may need to add the
shackle to the block.
b)
Shackle the double block with
cleat onto the middle eye on the
port side of the mast.
c)
Locate the block with snap shackle. Tie one end of
the main halyard purchase rope to the becket on
the block, then thread the other end through the
blocks as shown.
Page 42
4.15 - Halyard Elastic Take Up
a)
Locate the halyard elastic take up.
b)
Tie knot #3 in one end.
c) d)
Pass the other end through the top
block of the main halyard purchase
system.
40
Pass the end of the elastic through
the boom gooseneck tting as shown.
e)
Pass the end through the centre of the jib halyard
purchase block and tie knot #3 in the tail.
Page 43
4.16 - Jib Tack Line
2
1
41
3
Knot #3
4
Knot #4
(slots into
keyhole
on bow
tting.)
1
2
4
Knot #2
3
Page 44
4.17 - Jib Sheet
42
a)
b)
Locate the 2 x 40mm jib clew blocks in the hardware pack.
Dismantle the jib clew blocks as shown.
c)
Reassemble the jib clew blocks through the ring in the clew of the jib.
Page 45
4.17 - Jib Sheet
6
43
6
7
7
2
1
2
1
Knot #3
5
3
Knot #3
3
4
4
5
Page 46
4.18 - Asymmetric Spinnaker Sheet
44
a)
Add the snap shackle at the mid
point of the spinnaker sheet.
A
D
C
G
A
B
F
E
C
D
B
E
Page 47
a)
45
4.19 - Spinnaker Bag
b)
c)
x 4
Page 48
a)
46
4.20 - Rudder
b)
c)
Lift the rudder into place between the two gudgeons and insert the
rudder pin to secure it.
You may nd you need to grease the pin to get it through.
Insert the tiller into the rudder and add the tiller pin.
The tiller will prevent the rudder pin from coming out.
Add the tiller extension.
Page 49
4.21 - Preparing the Mainsail
47
a)
Sail numbers are supplied with each sail.
Cut along dotted lines to form the correct sail numbers.
b)
Unroll your new sail. There are faint lines on the
sail to show you where to stick the sail numbers.
NUMBERS MUST BE PLACED
HIGHER ON THE STARBOARD
SIDE.
4.22 - Battens
Batten key should be on clew of sail.
Check the inboard ends of the battens are positively
located in the inboard plastic end tting. To tension, turn
the key clockwise until the cloth becomes just tight. If it
is over tightened you will have trouble tacking the head
of the sail in light weather. Insufcient tension and the
sail will set up too at with wrinkles running down from
the head.
Page 50
4.23 - Sail Care
48
Wash salt off sails after use and dry. Roll from the
head. It is easier to fold the head in (as shown)
so the top of the battens coincide before starting
rolling. Store sail in its bag in dry conditions away
from sunlight. Although the sail is made from
a quality high denier fabric it is best to slightly
slacken the top 2 battens’ tension for long term
storage.
When using a new sail for the rst time, try to
avoid extreme conditions as high loads on new
sailcloth can diminish the racing life of the sail.
If your sail is stained in any way, try to remove it using a light detergent and warm water.
DO NOT attempt to launder the sail yourself.
A sail can be temporarily repaired using a self-adhesive cloth tape, such as Dacron or Mylar.
The sail should be returned to a sail maker for a professional repair. Check for wear and tear,
especially around the batten pockets, on a regular basis.
Roll from 2nd Batten.
Page 51
4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo
Locate the following items:
49
Torqeedo Throttle
a)
b)
c)
Add the propeller to the motor.
Lay the motor on the oor beneath the boat.
Pass a rope down through the hole in
the console from from above deck.
Battery
cable
cable
Battery Throttle Bung
Page 52
4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo
50
b)
c)
Use this rope to pull the torqeedo cable up through the hole.
Once you have hold of the torqeedo cable above deck you can use this to pull the
extrusion up into the hole.
Put something underneath the boat to hold the motor in place so you can work on the
top part of it without it falling back down.
d)
Add the handle to the top of the extrusion.
Add sheave
Add pin
Page 53
4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo
e)
Bolt the two sides of the handle together,
making sure that the pin and sheave
locate properly in place.
51
e)
Add the motor lifting line as shown and cleat it off.
1
3
3
2
1
2
With the motor in the fully up position, make a
mark on the extrusion so you know how far to
pull it in when you are on the water.
You can now remove the chock which you added in step c.
Page 54
52
4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo
f)
Remove the forward mainsheet block
and jammer base to reveal a hole.
g)
h)
i)
Locate the two cables extensions supplied with the Torqeedo.
Connect the longer cable extension to
the cable which comes from the top of
the torqeedo handle. Tighten then add
PVC tape around the join.
Pass the cable down through the hole which you revealed in step f.
Ensure the cable is properly seated in the cutout then replace the mainsheet block
and jammer base.
Page 55
4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo
j)
Remove the hatch in the side of the console.
This will reveal a pipe running forward with two mouse
lines emerging from it labelled ‘battery’ and ‘throttle’.
53
Attach the other end of the cable (which you posted down the hole in the previous step) to the
mouse line labelled ‘battery’, then pull it through from the front hatch.
k) l)
Attach it to the connection labelled
‘battery’ on the battery box.
Now take the shorter of the 2 cables and
connect the right angled end to the throttle.
Page 56
4.24 - Adding the Torqeedo
54
m)
n)
Pass the other end down through the
hole in the console and connect the
other end to the mouse line labelled
‘throttle’ which emerges from the pipe
inside the console.
Attach it to the connection labelled
‘throttle’ on the battery box.
Pull it through from
the front hatch.
o)
Fit the two screws (from below)
which hold the throttle in place.
p)
Add the plastic bung around the two
cables (inside the console) and push it
down inside the pipe.
Page 57
Rigging Manual
5. Using the Boat
55
PLEASE FOLLOW RIGGING MANUAL IN THE CORRECT ORDER
Page 58
5.1 - Lowering the Keel
56
a)
Put the keel hoist into it’s pot (inside the
hatch just to the port side of the keel).
c)
Shackle the strap from the
keel hoist onto the keel.
b)
Before you lower the keel for the
rst time use electrical tape to mark
a position on the keel hoist that is
level with the top of the keel. This
is a reference point to tell you when
winding the keel back up you have
reached the top.
If you keep winding once the
keel is fully raised you risk
damaging the boat.
d)
Once you are in deep
enough water, wind
the keel down using
the hoist.
You can now launch the boat.
Unshackle the rope from the keel,
remove the hoist and replace the
hatch.
Do not let go of
the handle!
f)e)
Add the velcro retaining strap as shown.
Page 59
5.2 - Raising the Keel
a) b)
Put the keel hoist into it’s pot (inside the
hatch just to the port side of the keel).
57
Undo the velcro strap which is holding
the keel down.
Shackle the rope from the keel hoist
onto the keel.
c)
Wind the keel up using the hoist.
Page 60
5.3 - Hoisting the Mainsail
58
a)
Shackle the main halyard to
the head of the mainsail.
b)
Put the top of the main sail into the opening in the
mast track, just above the gooseneck.
c)
Hoist the mainsail by pulling on the line which comes out of the port side of the
mast.
When the mainsail nears to top of the mast, a rope loop will emerge from the
hole in the mast.
Hook the snap shackle on the block (added in step 4.7b) onto this rope loop and
continue to hoist the sail to the top of the mast.
Page 61
d)
e)
59
5.3 - Hoisting the Mainsail
Pull on the main halyard purchase line until the
sail reaches the top of the mast, then cleat it off.
There is a pouch on the front edge of the spinnaker bag which can be used to stow the
tails of all halyards.
Page 62
a)
b)
60
5.4 - Outhaul
Attach the outhaul to the clew of the sail.
c)
Add the clew strap.
The outhaul line runs through the inside of the boom and is
already attached. Pull on outhaul tension with this line then
cleat it off.
Page 63
5.5 - Hoisting the Jib
61
a) b)
Shackle the jib halyard to the
head of the jib.
Hank the luff of the jib onto the forestay.
c)
Hoist the jib by pulling on the line which comes out of the starboard side of the
mast, just below the level of the gooseneck.
When the jib is almost fully hoist, a rope loop will emerge from the hole in the
mast.
Hook the snap shackle on the block (added in step 4.9b) onto this rope loop and
continue to hoist the jib.
Page 64
5.6 - Motor
62
Uncleat to lower motor or
pull in to raise motor.
1
Knot #1
1
3
3
2
2
4
This gudgeon will lock the motor down.
To release push the blue button.
Knot #3
Page 65
a)
63
5.6 - Motor
Connect the battery.
b)
Uncleat the engine lifting line and lower the engine.
Only lower the engine when you are moving at less that 3 knots.
You may need to push downwards on the Torqeedo handle to get the
engine to drop.
Make sure you drop the engine fully so that the pintle on the handle
clicks into the gudgeon.
Uncleat this line
Page 66
c)
d)
64
5.6 - Motor
Make sure the throttle is set to neutral.
Turn on the power.
Add kill cord to the throttle.
e)
If you remove the kill cord whilst the engine is running, make sure the
throttle is set to neutral before you re-attach the kill cord.
To lift the motor:
• Turn power off.
• Remove kill cord.
• Press blue button.
• Pull in motor lifting line.
• Stow the tail of the lifting line and the kill cord
in the pouch on the side of the console.
Page 67
5.7 - Weed Cutter
As an optional extra, a built in weed cutter is available which runs through the
front of the keel, with a blade that is hidden inside the keel bulb .
If you have weed stuck on your keel, pull the rod which emerges from the top of
the keel and the blade will run up and down the keel until the weed is removed.
65
Page 68
5.8 - Storing Sail Bags
Inside the forward hatch there is a loop of rope with a hook on it, which runs around
a block on the aft bulkhead.
To stow your sail bags, hook them onto this rope and pull on the other end of the
rope. This will pull the sail bag aft.
66
5.9 - Fenders
There are eyes on the stanchion bases for tying on the fenders.
Page 69
5.10 - Lifting the boat
67
a)
There is a lifting eye just aft of the keel which can be used for a single point lift if the
keel is attached to the boat.
b)
If the boat is to be lifted without the keel attached:
• Fit the lifting strop to the same eye as you would if the keel was tted.
• Run 2 lines from the lifting strop to the backstay eyes on the transom.
Page 70
5.11 - Removing / Adding the Keel
68
a)
b)
To remove the keel with the boat on a crane, rst drop the boat down so that
the chocks at the top of the keel are accessible.
Remove the two chocks from the keel
using a 2 x 13mm spanners.
If the weed cutter is tted, remove the
rope bobble.
c)
Lift the boat off the keel.
It is very important that you lift the boat evenly.
d)
To add the keel, reverse this process.
Page 71
5.12 - Bilge Pump
The bilge pump is located on the starboard
cockpit side (just forward of the console).
5.13 - Mooring the boat
69
The water exits from a
hole behind the rope bag.
When mooring the boat, tie the bow line to the jib tack plate.
5.14 - Antifouling
There are faint marks along the waterline approximately every metre. When antifouling
you can use these marks to line up the masking tape.
Page 72
6 - Knots
70
Knot #1
Knot #4
Knot #2
Knot #5
Knot #3
Knot #6
Knot #1 - Knot on knot
a)
Knot #2 - Bowline
a) b) c)
b)
d) e)
Page 73
6 - Knots
Knot #3 - Figure of eight
71
a)
Knot #4 - Overhand knot
a)
b)
c)
b)
Knot #5 - Double sheet bend
Knot #6 - Cow hitch
Page 74
A
Aft At the back
Anchor Line Rope that attaches the anchor to the boat
Astern Behind the boat
Asymmetric Gennaker flown from a retractable pole at the bow
B
Back To ‘back the sail’; allowing the wind to fill the back of the sail
Bailer A bucket or other container used for bailing water
Batten A thin strip of wood/plastic inserted in the sail to keep it flat
Batten Key A key used to adjust the batten
Batten Pocket A pocket on the sail that holds the batten
Beam Width of the boat at the widest point of the side of the boat.
The phrase ‘wind on the beam’ means that the wind is coming from the side.
Bear away To turn downwind
Beat To sail a zig-zag course to make progress upwind
Beaufort Scale A measure of wind strength, from Force 1 to Force 12
Bilge Rail The moulded line that marks the transition from the side to the bottom of
the hull
Block A pulley used for sail control lines
Boom The spar at the bottom edge of sail
Boom Pad The pad that fits onto the boom
Bow The front of the boat
Bow Lifting Handle The handle at the front of the boat, used for lifting
Bowline A useful and reliable knot, with a loop in it
Bow Snubber The part of the trolley that the bow rests on
Builder’s Plate Plate that contains build information
Bung A stopper for the drain hole
7 - Glossary
72
Page 75
73
7 - Glossary
Buoy Floating object attached to the bottom of sea – used variously for
navigation,mooring, and to mark out a race course
Buoyancy Aid Helps you to stay afloat if you fall in the water
Buoyancy Compartment Water-tight compartment in the hull that maintains buoyancy
Burgee Small flag at the top of the mast to show wind direction
C
Capsize To overturn
Capsize Recovery To right, or recover, the boat after a capsize
Catamaran A boat with two hulls
Centreboard The foil that sits below the hull to counteract the sideways push of the wind,
and to create forward motion
Centreboard Case The casing in the hull in which the centreboard sits
Centreline An imaginary line that runs through the centre of the hull, from the bow to
the stern
Chart datum Depths shown on a chart, at the lowest possible tide
Cleat A device to grip ropes and hold them in place – some grip automatically,
while others need the rope tying around them
Clew Lower corner of the sail, closest to the stern
Close hauled Sailing as close to the wind as you can; point of sailing to sail upwind
Cockpit The open area in the boat providing space for the `helm and the crew
Collision Regulations The ‘rules of the road’ to avoid collisions
Compass Rose The compass shown on a chart to aid navigation
Crew Helps the helmsman to sail the boat, and usually handles the jib sheets
Cutter A boat with two headsails or jibs
D
Dacron A brand of polyester sailcloth that is wrinkle-resistant and strong
Deck A floor-like surface occupying part of the hull
Deck Moulding A moulded deck
Downhaul Applies downwards tension to a sail
Downwind To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Drain Hole A hole in the hull from which trapped water can be drained
Page 76
7 - Glossary
Draught The depth of the vessel below the surface
E
Ease To ‘ease sheets’ means to let the sail out gently
F
Fairlead A pulley block used to guide a rope to avoid chafing
Foils The daggerboard and the rudder
Foot The bottom edge of a sail
Fore Towards the front of the boat
74
Forestay The wire line that runs from the front of the mast to the bow of the
hull, holding the mast in position
Furl To gather a sail into a compact roll and bind it against the mast
or forestay
G
Gennaker A large sail that is hoisted when sailing downwind
Gennaker Chute Webbing pocket in which the gennaker is stowed when not hoisted
Gennaker Pole The sprit that protrudes from the front of the hull, to which the tack of
the gennaker is attached
Gnav Bar Bar that sits between the mast and the boom, performing the
same function as a kicking strap
Gnav Control Line Line that applies and releases tension to the gnav
Gooseneck The ‘jaws’ of the boom that clip onto the mast
Gunwhale The top edge of the hull, that you sit on when leaning out to balance
the boat
Gybe To change tack by turning the stern of the boat through the wind.
H
Halyard The rope used to hoist sails
Halyard Bag Bag attached to the hull, in which the halyards can be stowed
Head The top corner of a sail
Page 77
75
7 - Glossary
‘Head to Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
‘Heave to’ To stop the boat by easing the main sheet and backing the jib
Heel A boat ‘heels’ when it leans over due to the sideways force of
the wind
Helm/Helmsman The person who steers the boat, or another name for the tiller
Hoist Block Block behind which the gennaker halyard is pulled when hoisting
the gennaker
Hull The hollow, lower-most part of the boat, floating partially submerged
and supporting the rest of the boat
I
‘Into the Wind’ To point the bow in the direction that the wind is blowing from,
causing the sails to flap
Inversion A capsize where the boat turns upside down, or ‘turtles’
J
Jammer Another word for a cleat
Jib The small sail in front of the mast
Jib Sheet The rope used to control the jib
K
Kicking strap The rope system that is attached to the base of the mast and
the boom, helping to hold the boom down
Knot A measurement of speed, based on one minute of latitude
L
Launching To leave the slipway
Page 78
76
7 - Glossary
Latitude Imaginary lines running parallel round the globe from east to west.
They help you measure position and distance on a chart.
Leech The back edge of the sail
Leeward The part of the boat furthest away from the direction in which the
wind is blowing
Leeway The amount of sideways drift caused by the wind
Leverage The result of using crew weight as a ‘lever’ to counteract heel
caused by the wind
Lie to A way of stopping the boat temporarily by easing sheets on
a close reach
Lifejacket Unlike a buoyancy aid, a lifejacket will keep a person fully afloat
with their head clear of the water
Longitude Imaginary lines running round the globe from north to south,
like segments of an orange. Used with lines of latitude to
measure position and distance
Lower Furling Unit The fitting at the bottom of the forestay that enables the jib
to be furled
Luff The front edge of the sail
M
Mainsail The largest sail on a boat
Mainsail Clew Slug The fitting that sits in the track on the boom, to which the clew of
the mainsail is attached
Mainsheet The rope used to control the mainsail
Mainsheet Bridle The rope runs across the transom of the boat, to which the
mainsheet is attached
Mainsheet Centre Block The main block, usually fixed to the cockpit floor, through
which the mainsheet passes
Man Overboard Recovery The act of recovering a ‘man overboard’ from the water
Mast The spar that the sails are hoisted up
Mast Foot The bottom of the mast
Mast Gate Fitting which closes across the front of the mast at deck level,
holding the mast in place
Page 79
77
7 - Glossary
Mast Lower Section The bottom section of a two-piece mast
Mast Step The fitting on the deck that the mast fits into
Mast Top Section The top section of a two-piece mast
Meteorology The study of weather forecasting
Moor To tie the boat to a fixed object
Mylar A brand of strong, thin, polyester film used to make racing sails
N
National Sailing Federation Body that governs sailing in a nation. In the UK, this is the
Royal Yachting Association
Navigation To find a way from one point to the other
Neap Tide Tides with the smallest tidal change
O
‘Off the Wind’ To sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
Outboard Bracket Kit Bracket which enables an outboard engine to be attached
to the transom
Outboard Engin Small portable engine that attaches to the transom
Outhaul The control line that applies tension to the foot of the sail,
by pulling the sail along the boom
Outhaul Hook The fitting on the boom that hooks the eye at the back of
the sail, and to which the outhaul is attached
P
Painter The rope at the bow used to tie the boat to a fixed object
Pontoon A floating jetty to moor your boat to
Port The left-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
R
RS Dealer A third-party who sells the RS range
Reach Sailing with the wind on the side of the boat
Page 80
7 - Glossary
Reef To make the sails smaller in strong winds
Retaining Pin On a trolley, to hold the launching trolley to the road base
Road Base A trolley that you place your boat and launching trolley upon to
trail behind a vehicle
Rowlocks U shaped fittings that fix onto the gunwale and holds your oars in
position while rowing
Rowlock Holes The holes in the gunwhale into which the rowlocks fit
Rudder The foil that, when attached to the stern, controls the direction
of the boat
Rudder Blade The large, rigid, thin part of the rudder
Rudder Downhaul The control line that enables you to pull the rudder into place
78
Rudder Pintle The fitting on the transom onto which the rudder stock fits
Rudder Stock The top part of the rudder, usually including the tiller, into which the
rudder blade fits, and which then attaches to the rudder pintle
Run To ‘run with the wind’, or to sail in the direction that the wind is blowing
S
Safety-Boat Cover Support boats, usually RIBs, in case of emergency
Sail An area of material attached to the boat that uses the wind to
create forward motion
Sailmaker A manufacturer of sails
Sail Number The unique number allocated to a boat, displayed on the sail
when racing
Sail Pressure A sail has ‘pressure’ when it is working with the wind to create motion
Sailing Regatta An event that usually comprises of a number of sailing races
Shackle A metal fitting for attaching ropes to blocks, etc.
Shackle Key Small key used to undo tight shackles
Sheet A rope that controls a sail
Shroud The wires that are attached to the mast and the hull, holding
the mast up
Side Safety Line The line that runs along the side of the hull
Single Handed To sail a boat alone
Single-Line Reefing System An efficient method of reefing with one line
Page 81
7 - Glossary
Slider Sliding fitting on the boom to which the gnav bar is attached
Soundings The numbers on a chart showing depth
Spars The poles, usually carbon or aluminium, to which the sail is attached
Spreaders Metal fittings attached to the mast which hold the shrouds out
Spring Tide The tides with the biggest range and strongest currents
Starboard. The right-hand side of the boat, when facing forwards
Stern The back of the boat
Stern Lifting Handles The handles at the stern, used for lifting the boat
Stopper Knot A form of knot used to prevent a rope from sliding through a
fitting, such as a pulley or a cleat
79
T
Tack a) To change direction by turning the bow of the boat through the wind
b) The bottom front corner of a sail
Tack Bar The bar at the bow of the hull, to which the tack of the jib is attached
Tack Line The rope that emerges from the front of the gennaker pole, to which
the tack of the gennaker is attached
Tender A small vessel, usually used to transport crew to a larger vessel
Tidal height The depth of water above chart datum
Tidal range The difference between the depth of water at low and high tide
Tidal stream The direction in which the tide is flowing
Tiller The stick attached to the rudder, used to steer the boat
Tiller Extension A pole attached to the tiller to extend its reach, usually used when hiking
Toe Straps The straps to tuck your feet under when you lean out to balance the boat.
Top Furling Unit Fitting at the top of the forestay which enables the jib to be furled
Towing Line A rope attached to the boat, used to connect to a towing vessel
Transit An imaginary line between two fixed objects, used to ensure that
you are staying on course
Transom The vertical surface at the back of the boat
Trim Keeping the boat level fore and aft
Trimaran A boat with three hulls
Trolley A wheeled structure, used to move the boat around on land
Trolley Supports The part of the trolley in direct contact with the hull
Page 82
80
7 - Glossary
U
‘Under Weigh’ A term derived from the act of ‘weighing’ anchor, meaning to be
in motion
Upwind To sail against the direction in which the wind is blowing
W
Wetsuit Neoprene sailing suit designed to keep you warm when wet
Windward The part of the boat closest to the direction in which the wind is blowing
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