We take pleasure
senice. Most of the servicing can well done by the average owner.
diagrammatic Sketches and photo illustrattons have been introduced for better
understanding. However for an owner who feels
any stripping and re-building for a major overhaul, we strongly reco
work be done by an authorised 'ENFIELD
that
the
use of proper service maintenance tools and genuine Enfield
best results.
Whilst every care
no liability can be accepted by Royal Enfield or the publisher for
or injury caused due to errors or omissions in the
PRECAUTIONS
reassembhg Motor-cycle parts.
-
with new ones, for 'safe riding'.
-
diameter and from inside to outside diagonally, with specffied tightening
torque.
-
in
releasing this Maintenance Manual as a guide t
N
uncertain of his ability to, undertake
DEALER/DISTRIBUTOR
is
taken to ensure that the information
AND
Observe the following points without fail, when dismantling and
Be sure to replace packings, gaskets, circlips.
Tighten bolts & nuts starting from the larger diameter ones to the smaller
Use always genuine spares and recommended grade of oils only.
GENERAt
INSTRUCTIONS
.
in
this
informations
manu
10s
given.
'0'
rings and cotter pins
-
-
-
When using a torque wrench for checking, always loosen the bolt or nut
by half turn and then tighten to the specified torque.
wrench for loosening
a
bolt or nut.
Never use torque
L
B~.G
the Enfield
parts ex-stock.
It
side
SPARE
When ordering spare parts for your Motorcycle it
Always quote the Engine Number and Frame Number and description of part required.
is
advisable to indicate the colour scheme especially while ordering parts for frame.
panels,tank, mudguards, etc.,
PARTS
is
advisable to deal direct with
official dealer/distributor, who should be able to supply most of the
n
\
/
ROUTINE
MAINTENANCE
Introduction
Periodic routine maintenance is a continuous process that commences immediately after
be
the machine is used. It must
if
basis
condition and to ensure long, trouble free service.
the machine is not used frequently.
Maintenance should be regarded
carried out at specified mileage recordings, or an a calendar
-
-
as
an
insurance
policy,
to keep the machine
in
peak
The various maintenance tasks are described under their respective mileage and
The intervals between the various maintenance tasks serves only as a guide.
gets older or used under particularly adverse conditions, it would be advisable to reduce the
period between each check.
ease
For
In
order to cut the routine maintenance tasks, a good selection of general workshop tools
ab~olutel~essential.
is
Included
phillips head screw drivers and
No special tools are required for the normal roufine maintenance tasks. The tools contained
in
the tool Mt supplied with every new machine
not available, the tools found
of reference each service operation is described
in
the kit must
be
a
range of
pair
in
the average household
if
circlip
m
will
prove adequate for each task, or
in
detail under the relevant heading.
will
usually suffice.
As
period.
the machine
if
they are
A daily check of the Motorcycle is essential both from mechanical and safety aspects.
good idea to develop this checking procedure in a specific sequence so that It
become as instinctive as
sequence
will
give advanced warning of impending mechanical failures and
actually riding the machine. Done properly,
this
wtll
simple checking
conditions
may jeopardize the safety of the rider.
-
Clean the motorcycle with a clean cloth.
-
Check engine oil leve1,using the dipstick provided in the oil
upto
'H'
mark.
-
Check proper operations of all controls
If
necessary top up ofl to the required level.
viz.
clutch, accelerator, brakes,
tank
cap. Maintain oil level
aI1
lights
horns.
-
Check tyre pressure, with a pressure gauge. Cneck tyre pressure when the tyres are
a
cold. It is worth purchasing
give consistent readings than
;;
<G?i'air-.r.-*,6z7-.---..
as>
G.
-
-. .
-;$$,~g~@;gss~~:~gon@:3@Psr*~Rear
o
,
-.-
.--
-
Check tyres for foreign materials and remove them to prevent possible punctures.
-
Check for adequate fuel
-
Check for proper charging of the battery after startlng the machine.
x*2~;<p:p:>.;:.;:2?<:2:*-.-+<q2=s3@~*.:
G~~+z.2~a.42.G..-c
-P----
~~~~~~~e2~z2~2~~-~~~v:L+g.~~~~~E5~+zs2~:~~~~:~~
small pocket pressure gauge which
garage
;~~+X*?:~T+;.E%*~~~*-
in
the petrol
forecourt gauges which tend to be less dependable.
,,,;
-pT3-.
?!..
-:<-n-.&$.&zg
,136::
PSI:
tank,
for the journey planned.
can
be relied upon, to
It
is
ultimately
which
and
a
-
Check ofl levels - engine & clutch
-
Check contact breaker gap and adjust
-
Check and adjust tappet clearance
-
Check clutch, throttle and kont brake cables and adjust
-
Lubricate rear chain
-
Adjust kont &rearbrakes
-
Check wheel rims, for excessive runout, breakage of spokes and tyres tor cracks or cuts.
-
Check condition of battery and electrolyte level, and top up with distilled water upto the
if
necessary
if
necessary
if
excessive play noticed
d.
*.
,*
level provided.
-
-
-
Clean,' and adjust plug gap or replace spark plug.
-
Check and service contact breaker
-
Check and adjust Ignition
-
Check and adjust valve tappet clearance.
timhg.
points.
-
-
-
Clean airfilter.
-
Clean, tune up carburettor.
-
Clean fuel tap gauze.
-
Clean fuel
-
Check and adjust clutch.
-
Adjust front & rear brakes.
-
Check front fork oil level.
-
Check
etc.
Carry
following:
-
-
out
Change ofl-engine & clutch.
Clean or replace ofl fflter
tank
and fuel lines.
all
elecmcal connections and functions of head
alI
the operatiom mentioned for
,
Light.
hf
monthly suvfce
trafficator, horn, speedameter.
and
check
the
-
Change front fork ofl
-
Check front & rear brake linings and replace
-
Check for play
-
Check operation of steering lock and lubricate
-
Check operation of side stand and condition of
in
steering head
bearings
lf
necessary
and adjust
if
necessary
sprlx.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Engine
-
BULLET
-
350
CC
Single
Cubic Capacity
Stroke
Bore-Nominal
Actual
Compression Ratio
compression Pressure
Engine outpl l t
Torque
Piston
Ring
Plaln (2)
Scraper
Ring
Maximum rir-g gap permissible
Gudgeon
Crank
Connecthg rod small end diameter
After a few thousands of Kms. of run the carbon. build up in the engine
will
cause general
falling off in power, accompanied by increased fuel consumption and starting trouble.
Decarbonising
carried out without removing the engine
will vary from machine to machine depending upon the
frequent short journeys
will
normally be necessq approximately every
fiom the frame. The mileage between decarbonising
will
need more attention than one which is used for fast long distance
8,000
Kms. and this
can
type of usage. A machine used for
touring.
1.
Removal of the petrol tank
Close the petrol tap. Disconnect the fuel hose from petrol tap end.
Remove the two studs which holds the petrol
2.
Removal of
the
Cylinder head
tank
to the frame and
pull
the
tank
upwards.
Remove the engine steady eye bolt.
Disconnect the high tension lead from the spark plug. Remove rocker oil pipe.
Remove the exhaust pipe and silencer.
air
Remove the
filter by undoing the bolts on the sides of the
Push the carburettor back clear of the studs after removing the
air
filte; body.
fudng nuts.
Remove the rocker box covers.
(LH
Remove the decompressor cable from the lever end of the handle bar
in
Crank the engine until both valves are closed. (Keep
Compression stroke).
side)
be
CYLINDER
Remove the rocker
arms and bearings
HEAD
completely after
removing the
nuts on each.
Lift
out the push rods
both inlet
&
Remove the six
cylinder head nuts
washers.
Lift
the cylinder head
off the barrel, tapping it
genly beneath the
exhaust and inlet ports
with a wooden mallet.
tap
Do Not
the fins.
four
3
exhaust.
/
1
6".
&
3.
Removal of Cylinder and Piston
Slacken the two clamp nuts on top of the
crank-case
neck
REhfOVAL
-
Of
PISTON
Remove the
Remove the
1/4"
nut above the tappet chest and
circlip retaining the gudgeon pin on the timing
side of piston taking care not to drop the
me.
Extract the gudgeon pin using special
(with adaptor if
may
be
replad the same
necessary),
so
that the pin and the piston
way
round, i.e., split skirt toathe
front.
During
getting
4.
Removal of Valves
this
operation
put a piece of
clean
in. Finally cover the crankm with
VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR
lift
the barrel
circlip into the crank
Tool
PED
20
15
m.g
in
the top of the
a
clean
cloth
to
prevent
To
remove the valves from the cylinder head,
first lift
off the end caps from the valve stems. If
this has stuck, it
driver. Using compressing tool
ampress the valve springs and remove the split
collars from the valve tip. Slacken back the
ampressing tools
crankcase
ingress
can
and
to
prevent foreign matter
of dust and dirt
be
removed by a screw
PED
20
release the springs.
18
ST
Withdraw the valve
and
place its springs, top
spring collar, bottom collar, the end cap and
split conical collars together in order that they
may
be
reassembled with the valve from which
they were removed.
If the valve will not slide easily through the
valve guide. remove any
of the valve stem
with
sIight burrs on the end
a
carborundum stone or
by using a fie Jeweller's file to remove any
sharp edge or burr. If the burrs are not removed
and
Ihe
valve
is
forced out. the valve guide may
be
damaged.
5. Decarbonising the Cylinder head - Combustion Chamber
6.
Hston and Rings
If the piston rings are in good condition they can be put back, taking care to fit them in their
original grooves and the same way up. If the
gaps, are more than specified
senice
limits
fitlgs show bmwn or black patches or if their
(Page 79), when in position
in
the barrel, new rings
should be fitted. The correct gap for new rings is given in the technical specifications (pages
6
13
8
)
for
350
which
and 500cc. The gap should be measured
will
be found at the top or bottom of the bore.
in
the least wdrn part of the cylinder
Only For 350cc:
The original size of the cylinder bore is 2.751" (69,875rnm). If the wear at any point
bore exceeds
.008" the cylinder should be rebored to .020" and
should be rebored to
.040" &er a further .008"Wear). Piston sizes available are .020 and .040"
an
oversize piston fitted. (It
oversize.
The original side clearance between the piston rings
and grooves
is
.003". If the grooves show a wear of
.005"
CRANKSHAFT
the piston should be replaced.
7.
Big end bearing inspection
Examine the condition of
ttle
big end while the piston
is
removed. About .010" - .026" end float is permissible and
it
will
be possible to rock the connecting rod slightly. The
with
big end has a floating bush
approximately
.003" However,
an original clearance of
if
a
DEFINITE up and down
play can be felt, engine should be stripped further to have
the big end renewed.
BIG
END
in
the
BEARING
8.
Valves, Valve
6-
Guides and springs
STEM
spur
sPNNC
INNER SPRING
OUTER
F
@B-
L!
spRING~~
VALVE
VALVE
a
CAP
COLLAR
SPRING
GUIDE
Wear
on the vahe stems
and ifa de£inite step has formed, the valves should
renewed. Before replacing the valves,
ground on to their
with a reasonable amount of
be
cut with a cutter (included angle
refaced
good
will
pocket has
by
than the
new valve
but the exhaust valve has more clearance
Met valve.
special tools are required which
The
less than
made
down to
diameter for a
length Support of
in
a
universal grinder. Do not attempt
seats by an excessive amount of
cause pocketing and restrict the flow of
already
cuttlng with a v&e seat cutter larger
vahre head.
Test the valve guides for
in
them. Both valves shuld
To remove the valve guides
ht is a piece of tube with
7/8".
fYom
9/
1/3"
1/2".
the
seats,
been
The second is a mandrel about
16"
diameter bar
can
be
seen on examination
if
good
faces are not formed
grinding.
formed this must
wear
by
fYom the head. two
can
an
internal
with
~SSOR~Y
CABLE
ADJ
USTINC
they
must be
the
seats
90')
and the valve
to
grinding.
gases.
be
removed
in
diameter
trying
the fit of
be
quite
(.002")
be
easily
the end turned
SCREW
made.
bore of not
4"
be
must
form
This
If
free.
than
long
a
a
cylinder head on the
valve guide. Using the mandrel. force the guide out of the
head with a hand press or by using a hammer.
To
fit
a new guide, support the head at the correct angle
and use a hand press and the same mandrel.
is
press
hammer and a mandrel,
oiighml&
respectively.
limits,
9.
freely.
the carbon
it
will
done without completely dismantling it. Having
disconnected the control cable from
unscrew the decompressor from the cylinder head.
Compress the spring and remove the spring cap. Unscrew
the adjusting
pull the cable sideways out of the block. Push the spring.
not available, the guide
Check the length of
2.020
If
they should
Decompressor
If
the decompressor holds compression and
there is no need
fYom the head of the vdve.
be
necessary
screw
tube
which
to
the
and
2.095
these have reached the specified sewice
be
renewed.
to
interfere with it except
to
regrind it on its
and locknut f?om the cable block and
fits
over the collar of the
If
a hand
can
be
replaced using
prevent damage to the guide.
valve springs which are
for the inner and outer springs
operates
to
remove
If
the valve
seat
the
is
leaking.
This
can
be
handle bar.
a
upwards and pull the cable nipple out of the body, It will now be possible to remove the cable
and nipple through the spring,
leaving the decompressor body and spring detached from the
control cable.
The spring and the cap should now be replaced. The valve may be ground in by applying a
thin
coating of grinding paste on the seat of the valve and twisting it to and fro by means of the
cable block at its upper
valve through a complete
wash the whole assembly thoroughly in
Make sure that all traces of grinding paste have been removed.
end and occasionally lifting the valve ffom
revolution before lifting, as this
will
g;oove the seat. Mer grinding,
petrol, opening and shutting the valve while doing so.
If
the paste should get into the
its
seat. Do not rotate the
cylinder serious damage would be caused.
If the valve shows a tendency to stick-up in the body but otherwise is satisfactory,
in
be cured by washing
petrol, though in this case it will not be necessary to disconnect the
this
can
control cable.
If
the decompressor valve is badly burnt or bent it must be replaced.
10.
Re-assembly
after
Decarbonising
Before building up the engine, see that all parts are scrupulously clean and place them on
a clean tray, work bench or
fit
a
new gasket between the cylinder barrel and the crankcase.
Smear clean oil over the piston and space the ring gaps. The second ring
over a clean sheet of paper. While re-assembling it is advisable to
is
a taper ring and
is marked TOP on the upper surface.
WARNING:
oil into the cylinder and consequent smoking.
of
Place the piston over the connecting rod
front and-insert the gudgeon
bore and gently push barrel over the piston while keeping the rings compressed in
and seat it gently on the barrel gasket. Refit the
When fitting the head
This mark should be on top when fitted. Reversing the ring will result
small end ensuring the split skirt is facing the
pin. Secure the gudgeon pin with the circlips. Oil the cylinder
1/4"
nut above the timing chest.
again,
apply jointing compound sparingly on both sides of the gasket,
in
pumping
their grooves
Replace the six nuts and tighten them progressively and diagonally from one side to the other
to prevent distortion.
WARNING:
Excess compound may block oilways.
Place the push rods with the adjustable parts downwards. The shorter pushrod is the Inlet.
Ensure valve stem caps are fixed on the valve stems. Position the rockers and bearings. making
sure that the oil feed holes are at the bottom and that the caps and bases are
tightened down. Adjust the push rods after ensuring piston is
in
TDC'
on compression stroke.
The silencer could be cleaned of carbon using a hot caustic soda solution,
NOTE:
engine has been
The cylinder head and base nuts should be checked agaln for tightness,
run
long enough to get it thoroughly
warm.
Tighten the clamp nuts on crankcase
finally. For torque tightening or cy. head nuts please refer torque chart on
in
if
necessary.
PageNo.
line when
after
the
100
-
-
-
CYLINDER HEAD 350CC
CYLINDER HEAD
SW
CC
SERVICE OPERATION
-
WITH
1.
Removal
First place a tray under the engine to hold the oil which
removed.
Remove the exhaust pipe and silencer. Remove ten screws from the
care not to lose the
NOTE:
cranked.
Draw
While refitting the
holes. using a
Ensure that
it should be renewed to ensure oil flow to the big end bearing.
NOTE:
Ensure proper
engine is
it
again properly. Wipe the oil that has oozed out
ENGINE
of
the
&ct,,'F
When
This
will
preven? damage
off the
running
timing
little grease (not compound)
xw
the
cork p ug
The Alter chamber should be !Wed with clean oil before the
functioning of oil pump by checking oil flow at rocker
at
ON
Tixning
S
cover,
timing
cy+
slow speed. Slacken the oil pipe banjo union to see the oil-flow and clamp
FRAME
cover
washers, one for each screw.
the
timing
07
the pumpworm or the pump spindle.
in
position
ersd
it lightly
in
h$$&
cover ensure that theJoint wasH%r
is
cover it
if
necessary
to
hold
the hole
is
Important that the engine
dlafrf",
it
in
in
with
position.
the pump worm.
will
a
is
escape when the cover
timing
H
/~.44w~r4
en mallet
woo8
correctly located over the ofl
If
the plug is damaged
timing
ripe
cover,
<
is
cover is refitted.
union whenit&e
is
taking
gently
-
-
OIL
OIL
FILTER
FILTER
ELEMENT
ELEMENT
IN nMlNG
COVER
2.
CIeaning/Replacement
Element
The oiI filter is located
immediately below the oil pumps. The felt element
should
the first
Krns. Fit a new element every
-
Oil
Feed
be
taken out and washed
800
Kms. and subsequently, every
and
of
Oil
Filter
Return Filters
in
the
timing
in
petrol after
8,000
Kms.
cover
4.000
I
VALVE
TIMING
MARKS
The filter element can be removed
unscrewing the nut holding the end cap in
position. When re-assembling the filter take care
that no grit or other foreign matter is
it. After replacing the Alter element it
to
nm
the engine at idling for about five minutes
to ensure that oil reaches the big end.
cover has been removed,
with clean
The feed and
drain
can be cleaned by rinsing
reassembly ensure the filters are not twisted.
3.
Overhauling
-Remove the timing cover.
-Remove the end covers from both pumps.
-Remove the pump discs and plungers.
-Remove the pump spindle which
--Check the fit of the plungers
able to be moved
plugs
oil
before replacing the cover.
return filters are fked on
in
oil sump and crank case. These
of
in
fill
the filter chamber
in
a solvent and during
Oil
feed and
in
and out by hand.
stlcldng
is
essential
If
the
return
can
be pulled out only from the front or return pump end.
the pump discs which should
by
to
tfming
the
Pumps
FELT
METAL
WASHER
be
-4
I
WASHER
SPRING
&ding fit and should be
011
FEED
d
RETURN PUMPS
ASSK
W""
PLUNGER
FEED
When matching a plunger in the pump
the plunger
If
the pump disc is not seating properly in the
should be ensured that the pump disc matches properly and
timing
Lap the discs
special tools PED
fme, grey surface is obtained on the pump disc face.
cover.
in
the pump dfsc. Using metal polish until it is just
in
the timing cover with fine metal lapping paste or liquid metal polish using
2034
ST
for feed pump disc and PED
disc,
if
it is found to be too
timing
cover or
2035
ST
tight
a
fit, carefully lap
free.
if
a
new pump disc is fitted, it
has
a perfect seating in the
for return pump disc,
until
a
NOTE:
purpose of this is to hold the disc.
off before the pump is finally assembled. Care should
Wash
traces of grinding paste. Check the pump disc springs for fatigue by assembling
cover and placing the pump covers
cover
taken place on the teeth.
Reassemble the oil pumps, replacing the cover gaskets. Before fitting each cover
pump chamber with clean oil. Having assembled the pumps, lay the
the oil ports using an oil
direction and it
the timing cover on the engine.
NOTE:
unscrewing the feed plug in the timing cover between the oil pumps and the oil return
checked
flow.
4.
Removal
Unscrew the pump worm using the hexagon head behind the worm, with special tool PED
2006.
CAUTION:
be loosened and when turned anticlockwise the
Replacement pump discs have a lip left at the opposite side of the lapped face. The
central
all
components and passages. thoroughly with petrol, after lapping,
in
if
the springs are correct. The pump spindle should be renewed
can.
Turn
can
then
be
checked
With the engine running, the oil feed to the big end
by
slackening
of
Withdraw the timing pinion using special tool PED
The worm nut has a left hand thread. When turned clock wise the worm nut can
the rocker pipe banjo bolt on the cylinder head and obsen?ng the oil
Pump
Worm
whether the pumps are operating correctly. Before replacing
£ill
the filter chamber
and
in
the housing
position. The latter should
during
be
taken not
lapping-in. it should
to
damage the lapped face.
be
held 1_/8"off
if
timing cover flat and
the pump spindle with a screwdriver
with
clean oil and fit the filter element.
can
be checked
Timing
Pinion
20 13.
worn nut gets tightened.
to
remove
in
the
the
excessive wear
in
a
by
clockwise
partially
be
filed
timing
timing
has
£ill
can
all
the
be
NOTE:
and is undamaged. This forms
shaft, timing side. If necessary this should be replaced and care should
fitted correctly.
CAUTION:
the timing shaft
end bearing leading to premature failure of the big end floating bush, engine bearings and
other parts.
When refitting the timing cover ensure that the cork is in position
a
seal between the oil feed plug and the oil passage
be
If this cork is not fitted or damaged. thkoil feed to the
will
tend to escape past this point causing starvation of lubrication
big
end
in
the worn nut
in
the
taken
bearing
to
through
to
crank
have it
the big
5.
Removal
Loosen the distributor pinion nut and pull out the distributor pinion off the distributor
shaft after removing the idler pinions.
of
Contact
breaker
housing.
Loosen and remove the three screws which
and seperate from crankcase. Remove the contact breaker cover. Remove the base plate after
removing the two hex bolts securing
Pull
out the contact breaker shaft from the housing. The two sintered bushes provided in
the housing would have to be replaced only
shaft.
Reassembly is just the reverse process of dismantling but take care to replace the washer
between the contact breaker housing and the crank case.
6.
Valve
The cams are integral with the cam pinions. They
have internal sintered iron bushes running on fixed
spindles in the timing chest.
The cams and the timing pinion are provided with
timing marks to set proper valve timing. The
procedure is detailed below.
Bring the piston to TDC Match the
exhaust
with
the timing pinion so that the two punch marks
coincide on both. Match the
cam so that the single punch mark coincide on both.
Push the cams home towards the crankcase.
Timing
cam
(provided with two sets of punch marks)
inlet cam to the exhaust
it.
\
secure the spigotted contact breaker housing
if
excessive radial play
is
noticed on the distributor
DE7AlL OF FELT OIL
CLEANER
S-
7.
Tappet Adjustment
It is very essential to ensure that the valves are closed
cam. The tappet clearance should
-
Cold
be
adjusted properly to achieve this and to cater to certain
rnruusn~er~~~~s
-&,
h
amount of thermal expansion of the working
components. We recommend
tappets to be set at cold. Provision for adjustment
is
sits
I
the tappet cover.
piston to
\
so that both the valves are at the closed position.
This
marks,
ammeter needle in its centre position, when
ignltion
given at the bottom end of the push rod which
overfie tappet. Access to
Proceed as follows for adjustments. Bring the
MARK
ON
INLET
B:
MARK
ON
C:
MARK
ON TIMING PINION
fully
during the closing period of the
TDC
at the end of compression stroke,
may be ensured by seeing the valve timing
if
the timing cover is open or through
is
switched on.
CAM
EXHAUST
'NIL'
this
CAM
clearance for the
is
by removing
Check the push rods. They must rotate thumb free without any up and down play.
if
In case the push rods do not rotate freely or
up and down play is noticed, the push rods
need to be adjusted.
Loosen the lock nut
adjuster,
till
the conect push rod freeness is achieved. Retighten the lock nut after adjustments
in
the adjuster,
by
holding the top nut. Thread
in
or out, the bottam
are complete.
CAUTION:
If
the cylinder head has been disturbed for
any
attention, ensure proper fitment
of valve stem caps and rocker bearings before proceeding to tappet adjustment.
NOTE:
Owing
to the
initial
bedding down of the wearing surfaces, the tappets on new
engines may require adjustment after the first few hundred kilometres of run.
8.
The Clutch
The 350cc clutch has five driven plates and four
-
350cc
and
500
cc
driving
plates, including the fiiction disc
on the sprocket.
500cc clutch is similar to that of 350cc. except that there
The
are
six driven plates and five
driving plates.
Also the lugs on the clutch sprocket and the splines on clutch centre are longer.
9.
Removal
Remove the
in the
clutch front plate, clutch pad
and the clutch retaining spring.
chain case. Remove the centre nut
To remove the clutch unscrew the clutch spring
of
the Clutch
L.H.
front foot rest Place a
in
tray
beneath the primary chain case to collect the oil
in
the chain case outer
and
remove the cover.
pins. Lift away the spring cap, sprlngs,
main shaft. The assembly of driving and driven clutch plates
The
clutch sprocket
can
then be withdrawn along
chain and engine sprockets (see point 10).
The clutch
centrg can be removed only after the engine sprocket, primary chain and the
clutch sprocket has been removed.
with
the
To remove the clutch centre hold the clutch with a brake bar (Special Tool No.
and
remove the centre retaining nut and washer with a box spanner. The clutch centre can
be
then
withdrawn from the shaft using extractor (Special Tool
No.
PED
REMOVAL OF
2005).
CLUTCH
PED
ASSEMBLY
2025)
1.
Clutch centre and back plate oqsernbly
2.
Cllrtch&
3.
Clutch sprocket drum
3.
Clulch sprocket friction disc
3.
Cl~lfch s~rocket frfctton dlsc rfuet
66
7.
Clutch svrocket ball coae rfoets
8.
Clutch sorocket balL5 13/16" dial
9.
Clutch retatnlna spring
10.
Clcrtch tntermedlote wlo
U.
Clutch plate /insert t&
(NISI
re
IN/S1
(N/SL
ldtshedl
12.
CIutch intermediate plaWfZaU
13.
Cltltch bded plate ossprnbly
-
-
17,
Clrrtch s~rina screw
38.
Clutch
J
9.
Clutch
20.
Washer matn shaft
21.
Nut matn short
p&
rod
fs~m
INlrlocl
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
-
SW
CC
ket
P
-
-
82
v
-
SW
rocket
rite-
56
-
T
&
drw
rivet
baILs
dd[al
fN/SL
.-.
-
10.
Removal of Engine
Remove the alternator stator by undoing three nuts. The primary chafn is endless hence it
is necessary to remove both the engine and clutch sprockets simultaneously. Remove the
central hexagon nut securing the alternator rotor, which
not to lose the key. The engine sprocket is mounted on
the clutch sprocket using extractor
1
1.
Removal of Final Drive Sprocket
Remove the clut h as described above. Remove the primary
primary chaincase mer by removing three nuts. Remove the folding of the tab washer which
provjded for locking the
is
hand thread). The sprocket can then be withdrawn.
12.
Re-assembly of the Clutch Plates
When re-assembling the clutch plates the following order must be observed.-The clutch pad
must
be
fitted into the main drive shaft, plain dished plate (dish projecting out wards].
Y
and
Clutch sprockets
can
then
be
drawn
splines and can be removed along with
PED
2004
ST
chain
final
drive sprocket nut. Hold the sprocket and remove the nut (right
tensioner. Remove the
off,
taking
care
Friction plate with inserts. plain flat plate. friction plate bonded.
projecting inwards). friction plate bonded, clutch front plate
lugs.
of the plates is due to either
clutch plates of oil, with insufficient or no
running the vehicle at
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
ofl
in
the clutch chain case.
In
the case of 500cc one more plain
flat plate and one friction plate
have to be
has been assembled.
The other three
means of bosses on the clutch cap.
Tighten the
go.
If
the clutch lifts unevenly, it
probable that one of the springs has taken
set.
in
a
fitted.
The friction plate with inserts should
be renewed
inserts have become loose in their plate.
The bonded friction plates require renewal
when worn or charred.
a blackish colour should not be mistaken
as
shamed). Excessive or premature wear
hd
clutch application or depriving the
;lain dished plate (dish
3
springs on the clutch centre
will
also
fixed
aftkr the plate with
springs are located by
spring pins
which case new spring should be
if
badly worn or when the
as
far as they
(A
light change to
inserts
will
is
13.
Primary
Access to the primary chain adjuster is gained by removing the primary chain cover which
is held
collect
chain rests. This can be raised or lowered by turning the
tensioner pad after having first slackened the locknut.
in
the
Beneath the bottom
Chain Adjustment
position by a single nut. Before removing the nut, place a bay under the engine to
oil from the chaincase.
run
of the chain is a curved slipper chain tensioner pad on which the
adjusting screw below the
chain
PRIMARY
CHAIN
ADJUSWENT
The chain should be adjusted.
so that there is
1
/4" up and
down movement at the centre of
the top run of the chain.
Remember to
tension at
check the chain
3
or 4 places and then
adjust accordingly. Ensure that
the chain tensioner pad moves
freely and the lock nut of the
adjuster is retightened after
carrying out the adjustment. The
chain is to be renewed if its
length has increased by
than the length of a new chain.
After replacing the chain
cover. remember to replenish the
Qty..
[SAE
-
430 to 450
14.
Adjustment of the Clutch control
chaincase with oil
to the
case[approx
leve1,plug in outer chain
-
It is essential that there should be about 3 to 4mm free movement in the clutch cable. to
all
ensure that
the spring pressure is exerted on the plates.
3/4"
20) up
There are two
~oints of adiustment on the clutch cable. The first is the midway adjuster at
A
CillTCH
ADJUSWEhT
ON
GEAR
BOX
the middle of the cable just above the
chain case. The adjustment is made by
screwing the adjuster screw in or out of
the adjuster body. Tighten the
the screwed collar after adjustment has
been made.
The other point is at the handle bar
end. Loosen the lock nut and
the adjuster to increase play and vice
versa to reduce play. Tighten lock nut
after carrying out adjustment.
if the adjusters have reached their
maximum position then the adjustment
can
be carried out
cover. Before proceeding on the
adjustment, turn in both cable adjusters
to their fully closed position [fully in
position).
To make the adjustment, remove the inspection cover, slacken the
in,
central screw
to get the desired free play on the clutch lever at the handle bar end. Tighten
the locknut after adjustment has been made.
locknut on
thread
in
Homver
in
the gear box outer
locknut and turn the
-
Owing to initial bedding down of the clutch plate inserts. the clutch control may require
adjustment after the first few hundred
be examined soon after delivery and adjustment made
Krns with a new machine. This point should therefore
if
necessary. Initially, excessive play
the cable can be taken up through midway adjuster and the adjuster at the handle bar end.
fn
NOTE:
6000
from its position,
The clutch adjuster ball
and
clutch rod may require cleaning and greasing around
rniles/10000Krns of run. To do this, loosen and carefully remove the clutch adjuster
taking
care not to drop it into the gear box outer cover.
Start the engine and tilt the motorcycle towards the gear box side. so that the clutch rod
can be removed. Wash thoroughly. the clutch rod and adjuster and look for chipped or
worn
clutch rod ends and free rotation of the clutch adjuster ball.
Smear multipurpose grease on the clutch rod and reassemble into the
grease on the clutch adjuster ball and carefully reassemble
to ensure free play is
15.
Ntting the Alternator
maintained on handle bar end and tighten lock nut.
in
its location. Adjust the adjuster
The dternator consists of two parts. the stator and the rotor. The stator
mainshaft. Smear
is
mounted on to
the primary chaincase inner by three studs and nuts.
is
The rotor, which contains the permanent magnet,
and
is
located by a key and secured by a special nut and spring washer. The designed
mounted on the end of the drive shaft
radiai
air
gap between the rotor and the poles of the stator is 0.25mm ( 0.010") and care must be taken
when refitting to see that it
is
not less than O.15mm
(O.OOG"]
he
stam
at
any
point.
SINGLE PHASE ALTERNATOR
-a
f~xed ring
wrth
c4ib
sry
carrying
via the
powec
rectlfler
to
the
Fit the rotor first, making sure that it
Attention must be given to the proper seating of the key. Finally secure the rotor with the
appropriate washer and nut.
Having fitted the rotor, the stator may then be fitted on to the chaincase inner with the coil
connections facing outwards. Replace the shake proof washers and the nuts on the studs and
six
tighten gently. Insert
25.4mm [l") wide. Check whether the s&ips are free in position.
not free, gently tap stator [at the opposite end) to centralise the same such that
become free. Tighten the stator nuts and ensure the strips move freely. Gently crank engine.
recheck the strips are free. Repeat this process at 3 or 4 places and then withdraw the strips.
strips [preferably non magnetic material) O.15rnrn
is
located concentricaUy on the end of the drive shaft.
(0.006")
If
one or more of the strips are
thick and
all
the strips
16.
the engine because it acts as a non-return valve between the crank case and outside atmosphere.
causing a partial vacuum in the crankcase and rocker boxes which prevents the passage of oil
into the cylinder. If the breather is not
instead of partial vacuum, giving rise to smoking or oiling of the plug.
17.
the engine from the frame.
Function
The efficient operation of the breather is of paramount importance to the performance of
Gear
The gears, ratchet mechanism etc, of the gear box can also be serviced without dismantling
Please refer page
Box
of
Breather
acting efficiently it may cause pressure in the crankcase
33
for dismantling the gear box.
SERVICE OPERATIONS
ENGINE
l.
Removal of
k
Disconnect alternator leads,
off petrol tap and disconnect the fuel pipe.
cable.
the engine steady bolt,
engine on a suitable box or wood block,
L.Remove the kont engine plates and the small bolt fixing the stand spring bracket and fixes
rear mudguared,
the engine.
2.
Remove the primary chaincase outer, clutch assembly, stator and rotor, engine sprocket and
clutch sprocket. Remove the clutch centre and chain case inner.
Remove four
3.
Drain
case bottom.
Having removed the engine
gear, etc.,
E.
Removal of the Gearbox
Dismantling the Crankcase
the oil
REMOVED
the
Remove the
M.
Remove the stud securing the rear engine plate to the frame,
3/8"
nuts and the gearbox
tank
by removing the feed and return flter assembly plugs located
as
described
Engine
air
filter assy.,
H.
Remove the rear chain,
kom the frame dismantle the cylinder head, barrel, piston, timing
in
the chapter "Decarbonising".
FROM
from
the Frame
B.
F.
FIPAlME
Disconnect the spark plug cap. Suppressor cap
D.
Remove carburettor
Remove the exhaust pipe and Silencer,
I.
Remove the footrest
K.
Remove the centre stand and the stand stop.
can
then be withdrawn from the engine.
assy.
along with throttle
G.
Disconnect
&.H.),
J.
Support the
N.
in
the crank-
C.
Turn
Slide out
Remove the nuts on the driving side of the engine
crankcase.
Remove six studs passing through the crankcase by undoing nuts.
The two halves of the crankcase can then be separated.
The driving side outer race of bearings
The
driving side bearing inner race and the inner distance piece
shaft. (Crank shaft]
The flywheel assembly may be removed from the driving side of the crankcase.
4.
Removal
1.
Clean the crank case thoroughly as any trace of oil
discolour the bearing race while heating the crank case.
2.
Heat the crankcase in
circumferential
gets heated up fairly, tap the crankcase on a wooden block [with
gently so that it
3.
Remove the circlip from the driving side crankcase and reheat to remove the ball bearing.
and
Reassembly of
area
of the bearing boss and not directly on the bearing race. When the crankcase
will
drop down due to the expansion of the bearing boss.
main
an
oven or apply the naked flame of a blow lamp on the
remain
bearings
kom four fixed studs at the rear of the
in
the driving side half of the crankcase.
will
remain on the engine
92
in
the crankcase
bearing
race facing downwards)
will
burn and
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