Royal Enfield Bullet 1995 Owner's manual

Page
Nos.
PREFACE, ROLJTINE MAINTENANCE
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTlON OF ENGINE PARTS
DECARBONISING
SERVICE OPERATION
SERVICE OPERATION - ENGINE - REMOVED FROM FRAME
GM
FRAME
FRONT FORK [HYDRAULIC)
WHEELS
ADJUSTMENT OF BRAKES
PRECAUTIONS
BOX
REAR
SUSPENSION
GENERAL
350cc & 500cc
ENGINE ON FWE
INSTRUCTIONS
l
6-9
10- 13
TYRES
IGNITION
WIRING
ELECIIUCAL CONNECTION DETAILS
CARBURETTOR
SERVICE LIMITS
TROUBLE
TORQUE VALUE CHART
SPECIAL TOOLS
METRlC CONVERSION
-
REMOVAL
AND
LIGHTING SYSTEM
DLAGWS
SHOOTING
AND
REPLACEMENT
TABLE
101-106
107
PREFACE
-
We take pleasure senice. Most of the servicing can well done by the average owner. diagrammatic Sketches and photo illustrattons have been introduced for better understanding. However for an owner who feels any stripping and re-building for a major overhaul, we strongly reco work be done by an authorised 'ENFIELD that
the
use of proper service maintenance tools and genuine Enfield best results. Whilst every care
no liability can be accepted by Royal Enfield or the publisher for
or injury caused due to errors or omissions in the
PRECAUTIONS
reassembhg Motor-cycle parts.
-
with new ones, for 'safe riding'.
diameter and from inside to outside diagonally, with specffied tightening torque.
-
in
releasing this Maintenance Manual as a guide t
N
uncertain of his ability to, undertake
DEALER/DISTRIBUTOR
is
taken to ensure that the information
AND
Observe the following points without fail, when dismantling and
Be sure to replace packings, gaskets, circlips.
Tighten bolts & nuts starting from the larger diameter ones to the smaller
Use always genuine spares and recommended grade of oils only.
GENERAt
INSTRUCTIONS
.
in
this
informations
manu
10s
given.
'0'
rings and cotter pins
When using a torque wrench for checking, always loosen the bolt or nut by half turn and then tighten to the specified torque. wrench for loosening
a
bolt or nut.
Never use torque
L
B~.G
the Enfield parts ex-stock.
It
side
SPARE
When ordering spare parts for your Motorcycle it
Always quote the Engine Number and Frame Number and description of part required.
is
advisable to indicate the colour scheme especially while ordering parts for frame.
panels,tank, mudguards, etc.,
PARTS
is
advisable to deal direct with
official dealer/distributor, who should be able to supply most of the
n
\
/
ROUTINE
MAINTENANCE
Introduction
Periodic routine maintenance is a continuous process that commences immediately after
be
the machine is used. It must
if
basis
condition and to ensure long, trouble free service.
the machine is not used frequently.
Maintenance should be regarded
carried out at specified mileage recordings, or an a calendar
-
-
as
an
insurance
policy,
to keep the machine
in
peak
The various maintenance tasks are described under their respective mileage and The intervals between the various maintenance tasks serves only as a guide. gets older or used under particularly adverse conditions, it would be advisable to reduce the
period between each check.
ease
For In
order to cut the routine maintenance tasks, a good selection of general workshop tools
ab~olutel~essential.
is
Included phillips head screw drivers and
No special tools are required for the normal roufine maintenance tasks. The tools contained
in
the tool Mt supplied with every new machine
not available, the tools found
of reference each service operation is described
in
the kit must
be
a
range of
pair
in
the average household
if
circlip
m
will
prove adequate for each task, or
in
detail under the relevant heading.
will
usually suffice.
As
period.
the machine
if
they are
A daily check of the Motorcycle is essential both from mechanical and safety aspects. good idea to develop this checking procedure in a specific sequence so that It become as instinctive as sequence
will
give advanced warning of impending mechanical failures and
actually riding the machine. Done properly,
this
wtll
simple checking
conditions
may jeopardize the safety of the rider.
-
Clean the motorcycle with a clean cloth.
-
Check engine oil leve1,using the dipstick provided in the oil
upto
'H'
mark.
-
Check proper operations of all controls
If
necessary top up ofl to the required level.
viz.
clutch, accelerator, brakes,
tank
cap. Maintain oil level
aI1
lights
horns.
-
Check tyre pressure, with a pressure gauge. Cneck tyre pressure when the tyres are
a
cold. It is worth purchasing
give consistent readings than
;;
<G?i'air-.r.-*,6z7-.---..
as>
G.
-
-. .
-;$$,~g~@;gss~~:~gon@:3@Psr*~Rear
o
,
-.-
.--
-
Check tyres for foreign materials and remove them to prevent possible punctures.
-
Check for adequate fuel
-
Check for proper charging of the battery after startlng the machine.
x*2~;<p:p:>.;:.;:2?<:2:*-.-+<q2=s3@~*.:
G~~+z.2~a.42.G..-c
-P----
~~~~~~~e2~z2~2~~-~~~v:L+g.~~~~~E5~+zs2~:~~~~:~~
small pocket pressure gauge which
garage
;~~+X*?:~T+;.E%*~~~*-
in
the petrol
forecourt gauges which tend to be less dependable.
,,,;
-pT3-.
?!..
-:<-n-.&$.&zg
,136::
PSI:
tank,
for the journey planned.
can
be relied upon, to
It
is
ultimately
which
and
a
-
Check ofl levels - engine & clutch
-
Check contact breaker gap and adjust
-
Check and adjust tappet clearance
-
Check clutch, throttle and kont brake cables and adjust
-
Lubricate rear chain
-
Adjust kont &rearbrakes
-
Check wheel rims, for excessive runout, breakage of spokes and tyres tor cracks or cuts.
-
Check condition of battery and electrolyte level, and top up with distilled water upto the
if
necessary
if
necessary
if
excessive play noticed
d.
*.
,*
level provided.
-
Clean,' and adjust plug gap or replace spark plug.
Check and service contact breaker
Check and adjust Ignition
Check and adjust valve tappet clearance.
timhg.
points.
-
-
Clean airfilter.
-
Clean, tune up carburettor.
-
Clean fuel tap gauze.
Clean fuel
Check and adjust clutch.
Adjust front & rear brakes.
Check front fork oil level.
-
Check etc.
Carry
following:
-
out
Change ofl-engine & clutch. Clean or replace ofl fflter
tank
and fuel lines.
all
elecmcal connections and functions of head
alI
the operatiom mentioned for
,
Light.
hf
monthly suvfce
trafficator, horn, speedameter.
and
check
the
Change front fork ofl
Check front & rear brake linings and replace
Check for play
Check operation of steering lock and lubricate
Check operation of side stand and condition of
in
steering head
bearings
lf
necessary
and adjust
if
necessary
sprlx.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Engine
-
BULLET
-
350
CC
Single
Cubic Capacity Stroke Bore-Nominal Actual Compression Ratio compression Pressure Engine outpl l t Torque
Piston
Ring Plaln (2) Scraper
Ring
Maximum rir-g gap permissible Gudgeon Crank Connecthg rod small end diameter
Cylinder 4 Stroke
and
dearan
end gap
pin
pln
diameter
piston
ce
rfngs:
in
grooves
in
bore
diameter
crankshaft:
Driving side Ball bearLng Roller
bearing
Timing
CamW
Valve
Valve
Exhaust opens Exhaust closes Inlet opens Inlet closes Rocker bearing inside diameter Rocker spindle diameter Inlet Exhaust valve stem diameter
Vdve
Valve guide external diameter Tappet.guide internal diameter Tappet guide external diameter
side Roller
lift
tizuing
valve
stem diameter
guide
bearing
with
-012"
clearance
internd diameter
~rication Clutch
Engine sprocket Clutch Sprocket
Primary
drive
chain
with
Overhead
: : : : :
: : :
: :
:
:
: : : :
:
:
: : :
:
: : :
:
:
:
: :
:
: :
:
: :
:
:
Valve
346cc 9Omrn. :70rnm
69.875 mm/2.751
7.25 : 1 110 + 5 PSI (recommended)
18
BHP
/
5625 RPM
2.74kgm/2875RPM
Dimensions for new .001/.003" .002/.004" .015/.020
0.030" .7498/.7500'!
1.24875/ 1.249"
.7505/.7507"
25 X 62 X 17 25x62~ 17 25x52~ 15mm(NU205orN205R) .3125
in.
.3125in.
75" BTL)C 35"ATDC 30" BTDC 60" ATDC .625/.626" (J3irnensions for new Components] .6235/.624" .3425/.3430 .3405/.3410 .3437/.3447' .6270/.6275 .3752/.3760n
.7505/.7510n Dry sump, Wet multiplate,OiI immersed 25 teeth
56
teeth
3/8" pitch Duplex chain.
OU:
mm
mm
tank
in.
components]
(63051
(NU
305 orN 305)
integral
with
crank
case
Gear
Box:
Overall Mainshaft ball bearings
Final
Rear
Brake
Carburettor
Main jet Pilot jet
Contact Breaker [Coil igdtion):
Points gap
Timhg before
Spark plug Spark plug gap
Condenser (Capacitor)
Suspension:
Front Stroke Rear
Wheel
we
Wheel Bearings
Font &Rear)
Brakes
Front Rear
Fuel
Full Tank Capacity Reserve Capacity
Oil
Oil
Fork Clutch
Gear
gear
ratios
drive sprocket
drive chain
dnun
sprocket
T.D.C.
Rim
Type
Size
:
.
tank
Capacity h Grade:
Tank
box
5.32,
7.26, 9.80, & 14.80
Small
6303
Large
6206
16 teeth
5/8" pitch chain
38
teeth Mikd-W-24 90 25
0.14/0.16" (0.35 to 0.4
:
:
1/32" (0.8 14
mm.
:
:
0.46 to 0.50 mm
:
0.18 to 0.25
Telescopic,
155
mm
Pivoted fork with shock absorbers
WM
2- 19
3.25
3.50 17 X 40 X 12
Mechanical, internally expanding shoe type
mm
178 153
mm
:
14.5litres
:
1.25 litres
:
2.25 litres,
:
200
ml.
:
420
ml.
:
700 grams of veedol'00'
mm)
diameter B7HS
M.F.D.
hydraulic
X
19 Front)
X
19
(Rear)
mm
X
38
mm
X
25
mm
SAE
20 W 50
on
each
leg.
approximately SAE2O W
mm)
(NGKI
damping
(6203) or 6203
Twln
Leading shoes
Single Leading
Hydraulic
grease
or
equivalent
ZZ
Shoe
oil
or
40
(for topping
SAE-
10 W 30
up
use SAE-20 W 501
Dimensions:
Weight Pay load Ground clearance Overall length Overall width Saddle Height
Wheel base
Electxicals:
System
Dry)
(Max)
:
172Kg.
:
14cm.
:
212cm(2120mm)
:
75
:
85
:
137 cm (1370 mm)
(140mm)
cm
(750
cm. (850
mm)
mm)
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
-
BULLET
-
500
CC
8ingle
Cubic
Cylinder
Capaclty
4
8tr~ke
Stroke
Bare-Nornlnal
Actual
CornpresstDn Compression Pressure Engine output
Torque
Piston
IUng
clearance in
matn(2)
and
Ratlo
piston
rlngs
pxwes
:
*raper
Rtng
end gap
Maximum
Gudgeon pin diameter
Crank
Connecflng rod
Crankshaft
DrMng
Roller
pln
bearing
Tlming
Camm
Valve
lift
Valve
thing
Exhaust opens Exhaust Inlet opens
Inlet
clmes
Rocker
Rocker
Inlet
valve
Exhaust
Vahre gulde internal diameter
Valve
guide Bppet guide internal diameter Tappet guide external diameter
I~bricatim
Ln
bore
rlng
gap permissfble
dlarneter
small
:
side Ball
side
Wer
dth
bearLng
bearJng
.O1T
closes
bearing
spindle diameter
valve
inside
stem
diameter
stem diameter
external
diameter
end diameter
clearance
diameh
Clutch
Englne sprocket Clutch himarydrtvechaln
with
werhead Valve
:
499
:
90mm
:
84mm
:
83.96/83.97
:
6.5:l
:
1 10
:
22 BHP/5400 RPM
:
3.5Kgm/3000RPM
:
(Dimensions for new components)
:
.001/.003-
:
.002/.004"
:
.015/.020n
:
0.038
-.
.
.7498/.7500"
:
1.24875/1.249"
:
.7505/.7507
:
25
:
25 X 62 X 17
:
25~52~15mm(NU205orN205RI
:
-3125in
:
.3125in.
:
75"
:
35"ATM)
:
3O0BTDC
:
6O0ATDc
:
.625/.626"
:
.6235/.6240n
:
.3425/.3430m
:
.3405/.341OR
:
.3437/.3447'
:
.6270/.6275
:
.3752/.3760"
:
.7505/.7510"
:
Dry
:
Wet multlplate,
:
25 teeth
:
56
:
3/8" pitch Duplex
CC
f 5 PSI
X
82
BTM)
sump.
teeth
mm
(Recommended]
X
17
mm
mm
[Dimensions
-
Oil
tank
Oil
(63051
(NU
305
integral
lmmeraed
chatn.
or
N
3051
for new Components]
with
crank
case
Gear
b~x
:
Overall
Overall gear ratios
Ffnal
Rear
Carburet tor Malnjet FUot jet
Contact
Points gap
Tfming
Spark plug spark plug gap
Condenser (Capacitor)
Snspdon
Front Stroke
gear ratios
drive chain
drive
chain
Breaker
before T.D.C
:
Rear
Wheel
me size
Wheel Bearings
Front
Bfm
&
Rear)
Type
:
Brake
Front
Rear
Fuel
tank
:
Full
Tank Capacity
Reserve capacity
Oil
Capacity & grade
Oil
tar&
Fork Clutch
Gear
Box
Mmensione
Weight Pay load
Ground clearance
Overall
Overall
Saddle Height
Wheel base
Electrlcals
System
:
(Dry)
(Maxl
length
width
:
(Coil
ignition)
:
:
5.01, 6.83.9.22 & 13.93
:
Small - 6303
:
Large - 6206
:
17
teeth
:
5/BWpitchchaln
:
Mikcarb-W-28
:
110
:
25
:
:
0.14/0.16" (0.35 to 0.4
:
1 /32" (0.8 mm)
:
NGK BR
:
0.46 to 0.50
:
0.18 to 0.25
:
Telescopic.
:
155
:
Pivoted fork with shack absorbers
:
WM2- 19
:
3.25 X 19 Front)
:
3.50~ 19(Rear)
:
17x40x12mm~6203)or6203ZZ
:
Mechanical.
:
178
:
153
:
14.5 litres
:
1.25 litres
:
2.25
:
200
:
420
:
700 grams of veedollOO' grease (for topping up use
:
168
:
172
:
14
:
212
:
75cm (750mm)
:
85
:
137- (1370mm)
:
12VDC
8
ES
or equivalent
mm M.F.D
Hydraulic
mm
internally
mm
X
38
mm
mm
X
25
mm
litres.
SAE-20W50
ml.
on each leg. Hydraulfc
m].
approximately SAE-20W40
~g.
~g.
cm
cm
cm
'
(140
mm)
(2120mml
(850
mm)
-
mm)
damping
expanding
Twin
leading shoes
Single lea- shoe
shoe type
Oil
or SAE 10W30
SAE
20W50)
ENGINE
PARTS
1.
CrankcaseD/S
2. Crankcase T/S
3.
Joint washer
4.
011
filler
car,
wllar
6. Idler pun mlndle
7.
Timing
8.
Tappet guide
9.
Cylinder
10.
ctrc1l.R
12.
Ball
14.
Distance
15. Distance
16. Roller
1
7.
Stud, Crank Case Neck
shalt
base
(SeeuQrl
healing
tube tube
bearing
mUer
stud
(outer) (Inner)
bearing
18. Washer. Crank Case Neck Stud
P
19. Nut, Crank Case Neck Stud
20.
Stud
Crank Case Bottom
Jolnt
21. Washer. Cmnk Case Bottom Joint
22. Nut. Crank Case Bottom Joint
Head
Head
and Cylinder
and
CylMer
24. Washer.
Stud
25.
Washer. Stud
26.
27.
Nut. Head
SW
Nut.
Head
and
and
CyUnder
Cylinder
Stud
28.
Crank Case Distributor
--
29. Washer.
30.
P
Nut, below dLsMbutDr
-
Stud
below
below
Distributor
31. Stud-Front engine plates
32. Washer, Front Englne
33.
Nut,
Ront
34.
Read
35.
Washer. Rear Ensine Plate
36.
Nut RearEnginePIate Stud, Crank Case Rear Joint
37.
38.
washer. Crank Case
Engine
engine
plates
plate
Plate
Rsar
Joint
39. Nut, Crank Case Rear Joint
40.
Stud.
Crank
Case
Rear Jolnt
41.
Washer, Crank
Case
Rscu
Jolnt Nut. Crank Case Rear Joint
42.
44.
Oil
Seal
Retainer
45.
Nut,
OU
Seal Retainer
-
46.
Distributor flanae pin
47.
Distributorjlange pin wash&
-
50. Washer. Tappet Cover Stud
-
--
c?
51. Tappet Cover
52. Washer (Fibre), Tappet
Couer
Stud
53. Washer
(Steel), Tappet
Cowr Stud
pipe
cover nut
unlon
54. Tappet
55.
Oil
56. Washer, 5
7.
Washer Oil fllter Cause
58.
Oil
59.
Breather pipe
OU
Pipe
Union
feed & return filters
~
60. Breather pipe cllp
61. Piston
62. Gudgeon Ipln
65. Piston
ring
(compression)
lower taper
66. Piston
ring
(compmpression)
top. chrome
67. Connectfng
68.
Connectfng Crank pln
69.
70. Thrust
rod
rodmtirtg
washer
bush
71. Cmnk pln nut
72.
Crank pin oU hole grub
mew
73. Crankpin nut keeper screw Thrust wzsher
74.
75. Thing shaJt
76. Driving shaft
77.
F& wheel T/S
79. Lock
rim
80. TIS shaft nut
82. Engine sprocket
distance
tube
83, Engfne sprocket 25T
84. Alternator
distance tube
P
85.
Push
rod
inlet
86.
Push
rod
exhaust
88.
Push
rod
end
bottom
89. Push
90.
91. Tappet
92.
93.
94. Cyllnder
95. Stud.
96. Rocker oil pipe wrnplete
97. Rocker Oil Union Bush 129. Washer, Decompressor 160. OU cleaner spring
98. OU
99. Washer
101. Cylinder head
102. Valve
103. Stud Rocker 1
04.
l
05.
1
G6.
107. Rocker, Met
108. Rocker, exhaust 139. Timing wwrjotnt washer 72.
nxi cup lock nut
Pushdcup
Culinder barrel ioint washer CqIMer barrel
headjoint washer
CylMer Base
Washer
union
Union
auLde
bush
Oil
~
Plpe
~
'
banjo
Box
Stud Rocker Washer, Rocker
Nut, Rocker Bearing
Bearinq
Bearing
l l 7. Nut (long) Rocker
118. Valve 149. 11 9. Valve spring
120. Valve spring. outer
121. Valw spring. Inner
122. Valw sprtng
123. Valw split wllar
124. Valve
125. Spark plug
126. Spark plug cap 1 2 7. H.T.
128. Decompressor
stern
Lead
WY
130. Washer. Decompressor
MY
131. Washer (Plain), Decompressor My
132. Decompressor My
133. Spring.
134. Spring
135.
Cable
136. Cable block 13 7.
Decompressor
assembly Timing
138.
Decompressor
Cap.
block
wwr
Box
ab,
ab,
cap
Decompressor
spllt pin
bottom
top
mlue
&le
148. Timing pinion 20T
Key
150.
ou
p-p
mrm
151.
Ollpumpdlscspring
/
52. Sprtng
153. Casket
154. OU pump aver
155. OU pump
156. Nut, 15 7. Washer,
158. Stud;
159.
011
161. Felt washer
162. Tht =her 011
163.
164. Washer, OU Cleaner
165.011 cleaner
166. Washer.
Nut
167. Nut.
168. OU
169.
,011
170.
011
1 71. Plunger Ifeedj
end
pad
011
hrmp
cover
screw
Oil Clsaner Stud
011
Cleaner Stud
0[1
Cleaner
cleaner eiement
cleaner
spring
cap
011
Ckaner
Oil Cleaner
pumr,
dlsc
lfeedl
pump
dlsc
(return)
pump
spindle
-
--
(rekm
Cowr
cap
Cap
Cap
CQD
109. Rocker beating inlet l 10. Rocker be&g
1
1 1. Rocker
112. Rocker bearing cap, exhaust
113. Gasket
1 14. Rocker
115. Rocker
1 16. Nut
bearing,
bow,
bor
(short)
aap,
Met
exfmst
Rocker
exhaust
Box
Met
140. Distributor pinion ~lstributor plni6&
141.
142. Idler
143. Idler
144.
145.
146.
1 4 7.
DW~
pWn bush
IdlerpWn thrust washer
cam
Cam.
Cam
4OT
wet
exhaust
bush
nut
40T
173.
ou
f&plug
174. Washer 1
75. Cork
1
76.
1 77. Spring
oil
Timing mwr
Coveiscrew.
retainer
washer.
screw
Tlmlng
ENGINE
Decarbonising:
After a few thousands of Kms. of run the carbon. build up in the engine
will
cause general
falling off in power, accompanied by increased fuel consumption and starting trouble.
Decarbonising
carried out without removing the engine will vary from machine to machine depending upon the frequent short journeys
will
normally be necessq approximately every
fiom the frame. The mileage between decarbonising
will
need more attention than one which is used for fast long distance
8,000
Kms. and this
can
type of usage. A machine used for
touring.
1.
Removal of the petrol tank
Close the petrol tap. Disconnect the fuel hose from petrol tap end. Remove the two studs which holds the petrol
2.
Removal of
the
Cylinder head
tank
to the frame and
pull
the
tank
upwards.
Remove the engine steady eye bolt. Disconnect the high tension lead from the spark plug. Remove rocker oil pipe.
Remove the exhaust pipe and silencer.
air
Remove the
filter by undoing the bolts on the sides of the
Push the carburettor back clear of the studs after removing the
air
filte; body.
fudng nuts.
Remove the rocker box covers.
(LH
Remove the decompressor cable from the lever end of the handle bar
in
Crank the engine until both valves are closed. (Keep
Compression stroke).
side)
be
CYLINDER
Remove the rocker
arms and bearings
HEAD
completely after removing the
nuts on each.
Lift
out the push rods
both inlet
&
Remove the six
cylinder head nuts
washers.
Lift
the cylinder head off the barrel, tapping it genly beneath the exhaust and inlet ports with a wooden mallet.
tap
Do Not
the fins.
four
3
exhaust.
/
1
6".
&
3.
Removal of Cylinder and Piston
Slacken the two clamp nuts on top of the
crank-case
neck
REhfOVAL
-
Of
PISTON
Remove the
Remove the
1/4"
nut above the tappet chest and
circlip retaining the gudgeon pin on the timing side of piston taking care not to drop the me.
Extract the gudgeon pin using special
(with adaptor if
may
be
replad the same
necessary),
so
that the pin and the piston
way
round, i.e., split skirt toathe
front.
During
getting
4.
Removal of Valves
this
operation
put a piece of
clean
in. Finally cover the crankm with
VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR
lift
the barrel
circlip into the crank
Tool
PED
20
15
m.g
in
the top of the
a
clean
cloth
to
prevent
To
remove the valves from the cylinder head,
first lift
off the end caps from the valve stems. If this has stuck, it driver. Using compressing tool ampress the valve springs and remove the split collars from the valve tip. Slacken back the ampressing tools
crankcase
ingress
can
and
to
prevent foreign matter
of dust and dirt
be
removed by a screw
PED
20
release the springs.
18
ST
Withdraw the valve
and
place its springs, top
spring collar, bottom collar, the end cap and
split conical collars together in order that they may
be
reassembled with the valve from which they were removed.
If the valve will not slide easily through the valve guide. remove any of the valve stem
with
sIight burrs on the end
a
carborundum stone or by using a fie Jeweller's file to remove any sharp edge or burr. If the burrs are not removed and
Ihe
valve
is
forced out. the valve guide may
be
damaged.
5. Decarbonising the Cylinder head - Combustion Chamber
6.
Hston and Rings
If the piston rings are in good condition they can be put back, taking care to fit them in their
original grooves and the same way up. If the
gaps, are more than specified
senice
limits
fitlgs show bmwn or black patches or if their
(Page 79), when in position
in
the barrel, new rings
should be fitted. The correct gap for new rings is given in the technical specifications (pages
6
13
8
)
for
350
which
and 500cc. The gap should be measured
will
be found at the top or bottom of the bore.
in
the least wdrn part of the cylinder
Only For 350cc:
The original size of the cylinder bore is 2.751" (69,875rnm). If the wear at any point
bore exceeds
.008" the cylinder should be rebored to .020" and
should be rebored to
.040" &er a further .008"Wear). Piston sizes available are .020 and .040"
an
oversize piston fitted. (It
oversize.
The original side clearance between the piston rings
and grooves
is
.003". If the grooves show a wear of
.005"
CRANKSHAFT
the piston should be replaced.
7.
Big end bearing inspection
Examine the condition of
ttle
big end while the piston
is
removed. About .010" - .026" end float is permissible and it
will
be possible to rock the connecting rod slightly. The
with
big end has a floating bush approximately
.003" However,
an original clearance of
if
a
DEFINITE up and down play can be felt, engine should be stripped further to have the big end renewed.
BIG
END
in
the
BEARING
8.
Valves, Valve
6-
Guides and springs
STEM
spur
sPNNC
INNER SPRING
OUTER
F
@B-
L!
spRING~~
VALVE
VALVE
a
CAP
COLLAR
SPRING
GUIDE
Wear
on the vahe stems
and ifa de£inite step has formed, the valves should renewed. Before replacing the valves, ground on to their
with a reasonable amount of
be
cut with a cutter (included angle
refaced
good
will
pocket has by than the
new valve but the exhaust valve has more clearance Met valve.
special tools are required which
The
less than made down to diameter for a
length Support of
in
a
universal grinder. Do not attempt
seats by an excessive amount of
cause pocketing and restrict the flow of
already
cuttlng with a v&e seat cutter larger
vahre head.
Test the valve guides for
in
them. Both valves shuld
To remove the valve guides
ht is a piece of tube with
7/8".
fYom
9/
1/3"
1/2".
the
seats,
been
The second is a mandrel about
16"
diameter bar
can
be
seen on examination
if
good
faces are not formed
grinding.
formed this must
wear
by
fYom the head. two
can
an
internal
with
~SSOR~Y
CABLE
ADJ
USTINC
they
must be
the
seats
90')
and the valve
to
grinding.
gases.
be
removed
in
diameter
trying
the fit of
be
quite
(.002")
be
easily
the end turned
SCREW
made.
bore of not
4"
be
must
form
This
If
free.
than
long
a
a
cylinder head on the
valve guide. Using the mandrel. force the guide out of the
head with a hand press or by using a hammer.
To
fit
a new guide, support the head at the correct angle
and use a hand press and the same mandrel.
is
press
hammer and a mandrel,
oiighml& respectively.
limits,
9.
freely.
the carbon it
will
done without completely dismantling it. Having disconnected the control cable from unscrew the decompressor from the cylinder head. Compress the spring and remove the spring cap. Unscrew the adjusting pull the cable sideways out of the block. Push the spring.
not available, the guide
Check the length of
2.020
If
they should
Decompressor
If
the decompressor holds compression and
there is no need
fYom the head of the vdve.
be
necessary
screw
tube
which
to
the
and
2.095
these have reached the specified sewice
be
renewed.
to
interfere with it except
to
regrind it on its
and locknut f?om the cable block and
fits
over the collar of the
If
a hand
can
be
replaced using
prevent damage to the guide.
valve springs which are
for the inner and outer springs
operates
to
remove
If
the valve
seat
the
is
leaking.
This
can
be
handle bar.
a
upwards and pull the cable nipple out of the body, It will now be possible to remove the cable and nipple through the spring,
leaving the decompressor body and spring detached from the
control cable.
The spring and the cap should now be replaced. The valve may be ground in by applying a
thin
coating of grinding paste on the seat of the valve and twisting it to and fro by means of the
cable block at its upper valve through a complete wash the whole assembly thoroughly in
Make sure that all traces of grinding paste have been removed.
end and occasionally lifting the valve ffom
revolution before lifting, as this
will
g;oove the seat. Mer grinding,
petrol, opening and shutting the valve while doing so.
If
the paste should get into the
its
seat. Do not rotate the
cylinder serious damage would be caused.
If the valve shows a tendency to stick-up in the body but otherwise is satisfactory,
in
be cured by washing
petrol, though in this case it will not be necessary to disconnect the
this
can
control cable.
If
the decompressor valve is badly burnt or bent it must be replaced.
10.
Re-assembly
after
Decarbonising
Before building up the engine, see that all parts are scrupulously clean and place them on
a clean tray, work bench or
fit
a
new gasket between the cylinder barrel and the crankcase.
Smear clean oil over the piston and space the ring gaps. The second ring
over a clean sheet of paper. While re-assembling it is advisable to
is
a taper ring and
is marked TOP on the upper surface.
WARNING:
oil into the cylinder and consequent smoking.
of
Place the piston over the connecting rod front and-insert the gudgeon bore and gently push barrel over the piston while keeping the rings compressed in and seat it gently on the barrel gasket. Refit the
When fitting the head
This mark should be on top when fitted. Reversing the ring will result
small end ensuring the split skirt is facing the
pin. Secure the gudgeon pin with the circlips. Oil the cylinder
1/4"
nut above the timing chest.
again,
apply jointing compound sparingly on both sides of the gasket,
in
pumping
their grooves
Replace the six nuts and tighten them progressively and diagonally from one side to the other
to prevent distortion.
WARNING:
Excess compound may block oilways.
Place the push rods with the adjustable parts downwards. The shorter pushrod is the Inlet. Ensure valve stem caps are fixed on the valve stems. Position the rockers and bearings. making sure that the oil feed holes are at the bottom and that the caps and bases are tightened down. Adjust the push rods after ensuring piston is
in
TDC'
on compression stroke.
The silencer could be cleaned of carbon using a hot caustic soda solution,
NOTE:
engine has been
The cylinder head and base nuts should be checked agaln for tightness,
run
long enough to get it thoroughly
warm.
Tighten the clamp nuts on crankcase
finally. For torque tightening or cy. head nuts please refer torque chart on
in
if
necessary.
PageNo.
line when
after
the
100
-
-
-
CYLINDER HEAD 350CC
CYLINDER HEAD
SW
CC
SERVICE OPERATION
-
WITH
1.
Removal
First place a tray under the engine to hold the oil which
removed.
Remove the exhaust pipe and silencer. Remove ten screws from the
care not to lose the
NOTE:
cranked.
Draw
While refitting the
holes. using a
Ensure that
it should be renewed to ensure oil flow to the big end bearing.
NOTE:
Ensure proper
engine is
it
again properly. Wipe the oil that has oozed out
ENGINE
of
the
&ct,,'F
When
This
will
preven? damage
off the
running
timing
little grease (not compound)
xw
the
cork p ug
The Alter chamber should be !Wed with clean oil before the
functioning of oil pump by checking oil flow at rocker
at
ON
Tixning
S
cover,
timing
cy+
slow speed. Slacken the oil pipe banjo union to see the oil-flow and clamp
FRAME
cover
washers, one for each screw.
the
timing
07
the pumpworm or the pump spindle.
in
position
ersd
it lightly
in
h$$&
cover ensure that theJoint wasH%r
is
cover it
if
necessary
to
hold
the hole
is
Important that the engine
dlafrf",
it
in
in
with
position.
the pump worm.
will
a
is
escape when the cover
timing
H
/~.44w~r4
en mallet
woo8
correctly located over the ofl
If
the plug is damaged
timing
ripe
cover,
<
is
cover is refitted. union whenit&e
is
taking
gently
-
-
OIL
OIL
FILTER
FILTER
ELEMENT
ELEMENT
IN nMlNG
COVER
2.
CIeaning/Replacement
Element
The oiI filter is located immediately below the oil pumps. The felt element should the first Krns. Fit a new element every
-
Oil
Feed
be
taken out and washed
800
Kms. and subsequently, every
and
of
Oil
Filter
Return Filters
in
the
timing
in
petrol after
8,000
Kms.
cover
4.000
I
VALVE
TIMING
MARKS
The filter element can be removed unscrewing the nut holding the end cap in position. When re-assembling the filter take care that no grit or other foreign matter is it. After replacing the Alter element it to
nm
the engine at idling for about five minutes to ensure that oil reaches the big end. cover has been removed,
with clean
The feed and
drain
can be cleaned by rinsing reassembly ensure the filters are not twisted.
3.
Overhauling
-Remove the timing cover.
-Remove the end covers from both pumps.
-Remove the pump discs and plungers.
-Remove the pump spindle which
--Check the fit of the plungers able to be moved
plugs
oil
before replacing the cover.
return filters are fked on
in
oil sump and crank case. These
of
in
fill
the filter chamber
in
a solvent and during
Oil
feed and
in
and out by hand.
stlcldng
is
essential
If
the
return
can
be pulled out only from the front or return pump end.
the pump discs which should
by
to
tfming
the
Pumps
FELT
METAL
WASHER
be
-4
I
WASHER
SPRING
&ding fit and should be
011
FEED
d
RETURN PUMPS
ASSK
W""
PLUNGER
FEED
When matching a plunger in the pump
the plunger
If
the pump disc is not seating properly in the
should be ensured that the pump disc matches properly and
timing
Lap the discs special tools PED fme, grey surface is obtained on the pump disc face.
cover.
in
the pump dfsc. Using metal polish until it is just
in
the timing cover with fine metal lapping paste or liquid metal polish using
2034
ST
for feed pump disc and PED
disc,
if
it is found to be too
timing
cover or
2035
ST
tight
a
fit, carefully lap
free.
if
a
new pump disc is fitted, it
has
a perfect seating in the
for return pump disc,
until
a
NOTE:
purpose of this is to hold the disc. off before the pump is finally assembled. Care should
Wash traces of grinding paste. Check the pump disc springs for fatigue by assembling cover and placing the pump covers cover taken place on the teeth.
Reassemble the oil pumps, replacing the cover gaskets. Before fitting each cover pump chamber with clean oil. Having assembled the pumps, lay the the oil ports using an oil direction and it the timing cover on the engine.
NOTE:
unscrewing the feed plug in the timing cover between the oil pumps and the oil return checked
flow.
4.
Removal
Unscrew the pump worm using the hexagon head behind the worm, with special tool PED
2006.
CAUTION:
be loosened and when turned anticlockwise the
Replacement pump discs have a lip left at the opposite side of the lapped face. The
central
all
components and passages. thoroughly with petrol, after lapping,
in
if
the springs are correct. The pump spindle should be renewed
can.
Turn
can
then
be
checked
With the engine running, the oil feed to the big end
by
slackening
of
Withdraw the timing pinion using special tool PED
The worm nut has a left hand thread. When turned clock wise the worm nut can
the rocker pipe banjo bolt on the cylinder head and obsen?ng the oil
Pump
Worm
whether the pumps are operating correctly. Before replacing
£ill
the filter chamber
and
in
the housing
position. The latter should
during
be
taken not
lapping-in. it should
to
damage the lapped face.
be
held 1_/8"off
if
timing cover flat and
the pump spindle with a screwdriver
with
clean oil and fit the filter element.
can
be checked
Timing
Pinion
20 13.
worn nut gets tightened.
to
remove
in
the
the
excessive wear
in
a
by
clockwise
partially
be
filed
timing
timing
has
£ill
can
all
the
be
NOTE:
and is undamaged. This forms shaft, timing side. If necessary this should be replaced and care should fitted correctly.
CAUTION:
the timing shaft end bearing leading to premature failure of the big end floating bush, engine bearings and other parts.
When refitting the timing cover ensure that the cork is in position
a
seal between the oil feed plug and the oil passage
be
If this cork is not fitted or damaged. thkoil feed to the
will
tend to escape past this point causing starvation of lubrication
big
end
in
the worn nut
in
the
taken
bearing
to
through
to
crank
have it
the big
5.
Removal
Loosen the distributor pinion nut and pull out the distributor pinion off the distributor
shaft after removing the idler pinions.
of
Contact
breaker
housing.
Loosen and remove the three screws which and seperate from crankcase. Remove the contact breaker cover. Remove the base plate after removing the two hex bolts securing
Pull
out the contact breaker shaft from the housing. The two sintered bushes provided in the housing would have to be replaced only shaft.
Reassembly is just the reverse process of dismantling but take care to replace the washer
between the contact breaker housing and the crank case.
6.
Valve
The cams are integral with the cam pinions. They
have internal sintered iron bushes running on fixed
spindles in the timing chest.
The cams and the timing pinion are provided with timing marks to set proper valve timing. The procedure is detailed below.
Bring the piston to TDC Match the
exhaust
with
the timing pinion so that the two punch marks coincide on both. Match the cam so that the single punch mark coincide on both. Push the cams home towards the crankcase.
Timing
cam
(provided with two sets of punch marks)
inlet cam to the exhaust
it.
\
secure the spigotted contact breaker housing
if
excessive radial play
is
noticed on the distributor
DE7AlL OF FELT OIL
CLEANER
S-
7.
Tappet Adjustment
It is very essential to ensure that the valves are closed
cam. The tappet clearance should
-
Cold
be
adjusted properly to achieve this and to cater to certain
rnruusn~er~~~~s
-&,
h
amount of thermal expansion of the working components. We recommend tappets to be set at cold. Provision for adjustment
is
sits
I
the tappet cover.
piston to
\
so that both the valves are at the closed position.
This
marks, ammeter needle in its centre position, when ignltion
given at the bottom end of the push rod which
overfie tappet. Access to
Proceed as follows for adjustments. Bring the
MARK
ON
INLET
B:
MARK
ON
C:
MARK
ON TIMING PINION
fully
during the closing period of the
TDC
at the end of compression stroke,
may be ensured by seeing the valve timing
if
the timing cover is open or through
is
switched on.
CAM
EXHAUST
'NIL'
this
CAM
clearance for the
is
by removing
Check the push rods. They must rotate thumb free without any up and down play.
if
In case the push rods do not rotate freely or
up and down play is noticed, the push rods
need to be adjusted.
Loosen the lock nut
adjuster,
till
the conect push rod freeness is achieved. Retighten the lock nut after adjustments
in
the adjuster,
by
holding the top nut. Thread
in
or out, the bottam
are complete.
CAUTION:
If
the cylinder head has been disturbed for
any
attention, ensure proper fitment
of valve stem caps and rocker bearings before proceeding to tappet adjustment.
NOTE:
Owing
to the
initial
bedding down of the wearing surfaces, the tappets on new
engines may require adjustment after the first few hundred kilometres of run.
8.
The Clutch
The 350cc clutch has five driven plates and four
-
350cc
and
500
cc
driving
plates, including the fiiction disc
on the sprocket.
500cc clutch is similar to that of 350cc. except that there
The
are
six driven plates and five
driving plates.
Also the lugs on the clutch sprocket and the splines on clutch centre are longer.
9.
Removal
Remove the
in the
clutch front plate, clutch pad and the clutch retaining spring.
chain case. Remove the centre nut
To remove the clutch unscrew the clutch spring
of
the Clutch
L.H.
front foot rest Place a
in
tray
beneath the primary chain case to collect the oil
in
the chain case outer
and
remove the cover.
pins. Lift away the spring cap, sprlngs,
main shaft. The assembly of driving and driven clutch plates
The
clutch sprocket
can
then be withdrawn along
chain and engine sprockets (see point 10).
The clutch
centrg can be removed only after the engine sprocket, primary chain and the
clutch sprocket has been removed.
with
the
To remove the clutch centre hold the clutch with a brake bar (Special Tool No.
and
remove the centre retaining nut and washer with a box spanner. The clutch centre can
be
then
withdrawn from the shaft using extractor (Special Tool
No.
PED
REMOVAL OF
2005).
CLUTCH
PED
ASSEMBLY
2025)
1.
Clutch centre and back plate oqsernbly
2.
Cllrtch&
3.
Clutch sprocket drum
3.
Clulch sprocket friction disc
3.
Cl~lfch s~rocket frfctton dlsc rfuet
66
7.
Clutch svrocket ball coae rfoets
8.
Clutch sorocket balL5 13/16" dial
9.
Clutch retatnlna spring
10.
Clcrtch tntermedlote wlo
U.
Clutch plate /insert t&
(NISI
re
IN/S1
(N/SL
ldtshedl
12.
CIutch intermediate plaWfZaU
13.
Cltltch bded plate ossprnbly
-
-
17,
Clrrtch s~rina screw
38.
Clutch
J
9.
Clutch
20.
Washer matn shaft
21.
Nut matn short
p&
rod
fs~m
INlrlocl
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
-
SW
CC
ket
P
-
-
82
v
-
SW
rocket
rite-
56
-
T
&
drw
rivet
baILs
dd[al
fN/SL
.-.
-
10.
Removal of Engine
Remove the alternator stator by undoing three nuts. The primary chafn is endless hence it is necessary to remove both the engine and clutch sprockets simultaneously. Remove the central hexagon nut securing the alternator rotor, which not to lose the key. The engine sprocket is mounted on the clutch sprocket using extractor
1
1.
Removal of Final Drive Sprocket
Remove the clut h as described above. Remove the primary
primary chaincase mer by removing three nuts. Remove the folding of the tab washer which
provjded for locking the
is hand thread). The sprocket can then be withdrawn.
12.
Re-assembly of the Clutch Plates
When re-assembling the clutch plates the following order must be observed.-The clutch pad
must
be
fitted into the main drive shaft, plain dished plate (dish projecting out wards].
Y
and
Clutch sprockets
can
then
be
drawn
splines and can be removed along with
PED
2004
ST
chain
final
drive sprocket nut. Hold the sprocket and remove the nut (right
tensioner. Remove the
off,
taking
care
Friction plate with inserts. plain flat plate. friction plate bonded.
projecting inwards). friction plate bonded, clutch front plate lugs.
of the plates is due to either clutch plates of oil, with insufficient or no
running the vehicle at
CLUTCH ASSEMBLY
ofl
in
the clutch chain case.
In
the case of 500cc one more plain
flat plate and one friction plate have to be has been assembled.
The other three means of bosses on the clutch cap. Tighten the go.
If
the clutch lifts unevenly, it
probable that one of the springs has taken
set.
in
a fitted.
The friction plate with inserts should
be renewed inserts have become loose in their plate. The bonded friction plates require renewal when worn or charred. a blackish colour should not be mistaken
as
shamed). Excessive or premature wear
hd
clutch application or depriving the
;lain dished plate (dish
3
springs on the clutch centre
will
also
fixed
aftkr the plate with
springs are located by
spring pins
which case new spring should be
if
badly worn or when the
as
far as they
(A
light change to
inserts
will
is
13.
Primary
Access to the primary chain adjuster is gained by removing the primary chain cover which is held collect
chain rests. This can be raised or lowered by turning the tensioner pad after having first slackened the locknut.
in
the
Beneath the bottom
Chain Adjustment
position by a single nut. Before removing the nut, place a bay under the engine to
oil from the chaincase.
run
of the chain is a curved slipper chain tensioner pad on which the
adjusting screw below the
chain
PRIMARY
CHAIN
ADJUSWENT
The chain should be adjusted.
so that there is
1
/4" up and down movement at the centre of the top run of the chain. Remember to tension at
check the chain
3
or 4 places and then
adjust accordingly. Ensure that
the chain tensioner pad moves freely and the lock nut of the adjuster is retightened after carrying out the adjustment. The chain is to be renewed if its length has increased by
than the length of a new chain.
After replacing the chain
cover. remember to replenish the
Qty..
[SAE
-
430 to 450
14.
Adjustment of the Clutch control
chaincase with oil to the case[approx
leve1,plug in outer chain
-
It is essential that there should be about 3 to 4mm free movement in the clutch cable. to
all
ensure that
the spring pressure is exerted on the plates.
3/4"
20) up
There are two
~oints of adiustment on the clutch cable. The first is the midway adjuster at
A
CillTCH
ADJUSWEhT
ON
GEAR
BOX
the middle of the cable just above the chain case. The adjustment is made by screwing the adjuster screw in or out of the adjuster body. Tighten the the screwed collar after adjustment has
been made.
The other point is at the handle bar
end. Loosen the lock nut and the adjuster to increase play and vice versa to reduce play. Tighten lock nut after carrying out adjustment. if the adjusters have reached their
maximum position then the adjustment
can
be carried out cover. Before proceeding on the adjustment, turn in both cable adjusters to their fully closed position [fully in position).
To make the adjustment, remove the inspection cover, slacken the
in,
central screw
to get the desired free play on the clutch lever at the handle bar end. Tighten
the locknut after adjustment has been made.
locknut on
thread
in
Homver
in
the gear box outer
locknut and turn the
-
Owing to initial bedding down of the clutch plate inserts. the clutch control may require
adjustment after the first few hundred
be examined soon after delivery and adjustment made
Krns with a new machine. This point should therefore
if
necessary. Initially, excessive play
the cable can be taken up through midway adjuster and the adjuster at the handle bar end.
fn
NOTE:
6000 from its position,
The clutch adjuster ball
and
clutch rod may require cleaning and greasing around
rniles/10000Krns of run. To do this, loosen and carefully remove the clutch adjuster
taking
care not to drop it into the gear box outer cover.
Start the engine and tilt the motorcycle towards the gear box side. so that the clutch rod
can be removed. Wash thoroughly. the clutch rod and adjuster and look for chipped or
worn
clutch rod ends and free rotation of the clutch adjuster ball.
Smear multipurpose grease on the clutch rod and reassemble into the grease on the clutch adjuster ball and carefully reassemble to ensure free play is
15.
Ntting the Alternator
maintained on handle bar end and tighten lock nut.
in
its location. Adjust the adjuster
The dternator consists of two parts. the stator and the rotor. The stator
mainshaft. Smear
is
mounted on to
the primary chaincase inner by three studs and nuts.
is
The rotor, which contains the permanent magnet,
and
is
located by a key and secured by a special nut and spring washer. The designed
mounted on the end of the drive shaft
radiai
air
gap between the rotor and the poles of the stator is 0.25mm ( 0.010") and care must be taken when refitting to see that it
is
not less than O.15mm
(O.OOG"]
he
stam
at
any
point.
SINGLE PHASE ALTERNATOR
-a
f~xed ring
wrth
c4ib
sry
carrying
via the
powec
rectlfler
to
the
Fit the rotor first, making sure that it
Attention must be given to the proper seating of the key. Finally secure the rotor with the
appropriate washer and nut.
Having fitted the rotor, the stator may then be fitted on to the chaincase inner with the coil
connections facing outwards. Replace the shake proof washers and the nuts on the studs and
six
tighten gently. Insert
25.4mm [l") wide. Check whether the s&ips are free in position.
not free, gently tap stator [at the opposite end) to centralise the same such that become free. Tighten the stator nuts and ensure the strips move freely. Gently crank engine. recheck the strips are free. Repeat this process at 3 or 4 places and then withdraw the strips.
strips [preferably non magnetic material) O.15rnrn
is
located concentricaUy on the end of the drive shaft.
(0.006")
If
one or more of the strips are
thick and
all
the strips
16.
the engine because it acts as a non-return valve between the crank case and outside atmosphere. causing a partial vacuum in the crankcase and rocker boxes which prevents the passage of oil into the cylinder. If the breather is not
instead of partial vacuum, giving rise to smoking or oiling of the plug.
17.
the engine from the frame.
Function
The efficient operation of the breather is of paramount importance to the performance of
Gear
The gears, ratchet mechanism etc, of the gear box can also be serviced without dismantling
Please refer page
Box
of
Breather
acting efficiently it may cause pressure in the crankcase
33
for dismantling the gear box.
SERVICE OPERATIONS
ENGINE
l.
Removal of
k
Disconnect alternator leads, off petrol tap and disconnect the fuel pipe. cable.
the engine steady bolt,
engine on a suitable box or wood block,
L.Remove the kont engine plates and the small bolt fixing the stand spring bracket and fixes rear mudguared, the engine.
2.
Remove the primary chaincase outer, clutch assembly, stator and rotor, engine sprocket and clutch sprocket. Remove the clutch centre and chain case inner.
Remove four
3.
Drain
case bottom. Having removed the engine
gear, etc.,
E.
Removal of the Gearbox
Dismantling the Crankcase
the oil
REMOVED
the
Remove the
M.
Remove the stud securing the rear engine plate to the frame,
3/8"
nuts and the gearbox
tank
by removing the feed and return flter assembly plugs located
as
described
Engine
air
filter assy.,
H.
Remove the rear chain,
kom the frame dismantle the cylinder head, barrel, piston, timing
in
the chapter "Decarbonising".
FROM
from
the Frame
B.
F.
FIPAlME
Disconnect the spark plug cap. Suppressor cap
D.
Remove carburettor
Remove the exhaust pipe and Silencer,
I.
Remove the footrest
K.
Remove the centre stand and the stand stop.
can
then be withdrawn from the engine.
assy.
along with throttle
G.
Disconnect
&.H.),
J.
Support the
N.
in
the crank-
C.
Turn
Slide out
Remove the nuts on the driving side of the engine crankcase.
Remove six studs passing through the crankcase by undoing nuts. The two halves of the crankcase can then be separated.
The driving side outer race of bearings
The
driving side bearing inner race and the inner distance piece
shaft. (Crank shaft]
The flywheel assembly may be removed from the driving side of the crankcase.
4.
Removal
1.
Clean the crank case thoroughly as any trace of oil
discolour the bearing race while heating the crank case.
2.
Heat the crankcase in
circumferential gets heated up fairly, tap the crankcase on a wooden block [with gently so that it
3.
Remove the circlip from the driving side crankcase and reheat to remove the ball bearing.
and
Reassembly of
area
of the bearing boss and not directly on the bearing race. When the crankcase
will
drop down due to the expansion of the bearing boss.
main
an
oven or apply the naked flame of a blow lamp on the
remain
bearings
kom four fixed studs at the rear of the
in
the driving side half of the crankcase.
will
remain on the engine
92
in
the crankcase
bearing
race facing downwards)
will
burn and
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