Contens ---------------------------------------------------page
Specication + equipment --------------------------------- 2
General notes on the building instructions ------------ 3
Parts List ----------------------------------------------------- 4,5
Pictures Lasersheets ----------------------------------------- 6
Stage 0 – Bootsständer ------------------------------------- 7
Stage 1 – Preparing the motor plate --------------------- 7
Stage 1.2 – Installing the power unit --------------------- 8
Stage 2 – Installing the rudder system ------------------ 9
Stage 2.1 – Installing the rudder servo ---------------- 10
Stage 3 – Deck -----------------------------------------------11
Stage 3.1 – Deck equipment ----------------------------- 12
Stage 4 – Internal unit ------------------------------------- 13
Stage 4.1 – Fitting out the internal unit ---------------- 14
Stage 5 – The wheelhouse ------------------------------- 15
Stage 5.1 –The roof ---------------------------------------- 16
Stage 5.2 – The wheelhouse and internal ttings -- 17
Stage 6 –Marking the waterline ------------------------- 18
Stage 7 – RC installation --------------------------------- 19
Electrical diagram ------------------------------------------ 20
Specication:
Length: -------------------------------------------------- 550 mm
Beam: --------------------------------------------------- 165 mm
Displacement: -------------------------------- approx. 1200g
Scale: ---------------------------------------------------------1:20
Additional accessories are required for the construction and
operation.
For details, recommended adhesives and colors, please refer
to the separate sheet with accessories.
Optionally, a standard servo is required when the Fire monitor
should be adjusted in height.
Towing Gear Order no. ro1434
The launch can be converted into a towing wessl by tting the
towing gear. A load of up to about 15 kg. can be towed. The
towed gear can still be assembled after the construction of the
model.
Recommended radio control system
All remote control systems from 2 channels in combination with
a servo and electronic speed controller. When installing special
functions, 4-channel remote control is recommended.
Tools
Balsa knife, scissors, hand drill with drills, soldering irons
with accessories, les, sandpaper, screwdriver, hex wrench,
forceps, brush, black felt tip pen, clothes pegs, tape.
For further tools and informations, see the Krick Modelltechnik
main catalog.
A detailed list of accessories for the kit and the expansion kits
can be found in the accessory list enclosed with the kit.
Dear customer,
Additions to the kit Dolly
Fitting set Order no. ro1006
For true -scale appearance of the model. It contains the tting
parts such as bollards, rescue ring, ag with ag stick, fan,
horn and the complete lamps with pebbles. TParts from the
tting set are marked „BS“ in the parts list.
For the power supply of the functional lighting are required:
If the lighting is to be switched via the remote control, additional
part are required:
1 RC switch Duo-Switch 67202
Special Funktion Set Fire monitor Order no. ro1009
The launch Dolly can be covered into a re-ghting launch by
installing the special functions set. The special function set remonitor can be changed after the model has been completed.
However, painting work is easier to carry out during assembly.
Contents: operating re monitor, pump, connecting hardware.
For the RC control of the pump are required:
Quantity Description order no.
1 RC Uno Switch 67201
1 BEC Plug with cable (Set) 67522
Congratulations on your choice of model ship of the brand
ROMARIN from the company Krick Modelltechnik. Many thanks
for placing your trust in us.
Introduction to the building instructions
Our model of the Dolly launch is a classic kit - not a readymade model.
We therefore assume that the builder has a certain amount of
experience in the handling of modelling tools and materials.
For this reason these instructions do not explain in detail the
procedure for separating laser-cut parts, drilling holes, cutting
strip material and wire to length, painting individual components, etc.
The building instructions are divided into sub-assemblies, each
of which is sub-divided into individual stages arranged in a
logical sequence.
Each stage also includes supplementary hints and tips which
apply to the procedures currently in hand.
Before you start construction, please read right through the
instructions, referring constantly to the illustrations, so that you
have a clear idea how the model goes together.
In basic terms the part numbers in the drawings and instructions reect the recommended sequence of assembly.
Unless indicated otherwise, all measurements are stated in
millimetres.
All stated directions are as seen from the rear of the model
looking forward.
Use abrasive paper to sand the cut edges smooth after trimming the vacuum-moulded parts.
Drill holes in the vacuum-moulded parts at the marked points,
and in the positions indicated in the illustrations.
The parts in the laser-cut sheets
This kit contains laser-cut sheets containing model components.
The parts are joined to the sheets by small lugs, to prevent
them falling out in transit. They can easily be removed using
a chisel or a sharp balsa-knife.
It is best to leave the parts in the sheets until you need them for
the stage in hand; this makes it easier to identify the remaining
parts.
These instructions include an A4 sheet showing reducedscale
drawings of the laser-cut sheets and the stage numbers for
which they are needed.
The individual sub-assemblies from each stage should be trialtted “dry” (no glue) beforehand, both to check that the parts
are correctly positioned, and that they t together neatly.
As most of the curved shapes require ne adjustment, the
projecting tongues are designed to have a little play in the matching slots. This is useful when completing complex subassemblies, but does mean that you have to be very accurate when
aligning external contours.
This method of construction inevitably leaves small gaps; these
can be used to tack the parts together with small quantities of
cyano.
When joining parts at an angle to each other, it is important to
ensure that their contact surfaces mate accurately, as errors
are cumulative, and the result may be that it is dicult to install
subsequent sub-assemblies in the correct position.
The sequential numbering of the stages of assembly is intended to help you when installing the parts. This is not always
100% true, but still forms a useful guideline.
Wait until glued joints have set hard before lling exposed joints
and sanding smooth.
Glued joints
Use the recommended adhesives only.
Always observe the instructions provided by the adhesive
manufacturers.
All parts must be trial-tted “dry” (without glue) before you
reach for the adhesive.
When using a Acrylit glue, spread the adhesive out thinly rather
than applying thick beads of glue.
All glued joints involving the hull at which there is a danger of
water penetration (rudder bush, stern tube etc.) must be sealed
carefully with a llet of the Acrylit glue.
Hold parts together with clamps or strips of adhesive tape after
applying the glue.
Small quantities of cyano-acrylate can be applied using a pin
or a length of thin wire.
soldering the individual railing sections.
Clean up all soldered joints carefully. All metal parts must be
rubbed down with ne abrasive paper and de-greased before
they are painted. Use heat-shrink sleeves to insulate soldered
joints involving connectors and cables.
Painting the model
Any gaps between individual plastic parts can be made good
using a plastic ller paste, e.g. DELUXE Plastic putty. Sand
lled areas smooth when dry.
When plastic parts are to be painted, clean the surfaces with
white spirit (not cellulose thinners), and then avoid touching
them again. Before painting the hull we recommend giving it a
coat of primer and rubbing down with ne abrasive paper.
If you wish to obtain a neatly delineated paint job, it is essential
to paint areas of dierent colour separately. This means: every
individual component which is to be a dierent colour should
rst be trimmed to t on the boat, then painted, and only then
glued or screwed to the model.
If any part is to be painted in multiple colours, then the dierent
areas should be masked out using Tesalm (clear adhesive
tape) or PVC tape - don‘t use paper masking tape. The tape
must be removed again when the new paint is just dry to the
touch.
Where painted parts are to be glued to the model, sand the
painted surface before applying glue.
For painting this model we recommend acrylic-based or synthetic enamel paints exclusively.
If you wish, you can nish the model in the colour scheme
shown in the kit box illustrations.
Marking the waterline, painting the model
Since the Construction Water Line (CWL) also represents the
dividing line between the upper hull and the
lower hull colours, it must be marked on the
hull before painting.
It is best to prepare the jig shown in the drawing for marking the waterline. The position
of the waterline is stated in the drawing.
Place the hull in the boatstand and weight it
down to prevent it shifting.
Now pack up the boatstand so that the
CWL points marked at the bow and stern
are the same height above the bench; it is
best to check this with a steel ruler. Set the
jig to the correct height, and move it round the hull to mark the
waterline all round.
Radio control system
A two-channel radio control system is all you need to operate
the model.
We recommend that you install the specied RC components.
Study the instructions supplied with the equipment before
using it for the rst time.
Electrical connections must be secured inside the hull in
such a way that they cannot come into contact with any water
which penetrates the model.
Soldering
When soldering always use a hot iron and apply it for the
minimum of time, other wise there is a danger of heat-damage
to the adjacent plastic parts (superstructure, platforms etc.). An
alternative method is to prepare a simple jig for bending and
1.12 ------------Screw ------------------------------- Steel ------------------- M2,5x6 ----------------------2 --------------- Suitable for Max Speed 400
1.13 ------------ Washer -----------------------------Steel ------------------- Ø2,5 --------------------------2 --------------- Suitable for Max Speed 400
E-Motor ------- Electric motor ---------------------Ready made part -- Ø3 0x3 7, 5 -------------------1 --------------- Not included
--- --------------Suppressor ----------------------- Set ------------------------------------------------------1 --------------- Not included
--- --------------Motor lead -------------------------Cable ----------------- 10 cm, 1,5 mm² -----------2 --------------- Not included
--- --------------Connectors motor ---------------Connectors ---------- 4 mm round ----------------2 --------------- Not included
Stage 2 Rudder and linkage
2.1 -------------- Rudder plate ----------------------ABS ------------------- 1,5 laser-cut part ---------1
2.2 ------------- Rudder support plate -----------ABS ------------------- 1,5 laser-cut part ---------1
2.3 -------------Rudder bush ----------------------Brass ------------------ Ø4x30 -----------------------1
- Separate the parts from the laser-cut sheet marked
- „Boatstand“.
- Glue the parts together on a at surface, as shown in
the drawing.
- Allow the glued joints to set hard, then sand and paint
theboatstand.
- When the paint is dry, stick protective material (foam
rubber, foam plastic or felt) to the contact surfaces.
These soft linings protect the hull from scratches
during construction.
Stage 1 – Preparing the motor plate
Nr.
ro1005
- Separate the parts required from the laser-cut sheet.
- Glue together parts 1.2 to 1.4 as shown, setting the motor bulkhead 1.3 at the correct angle using the template „S“. Do not glue
the template!
- Drill the holes for the stern tube and the rudder bush in the vacuum-moulded hull 1.1 as shown.
- Screw the propeller 1.7 and M2 nut 1.6 onto the shaft, and lock them against each other.
- - Lightly grease the inside of the stern tube 1.8 to act as a seal, then t the factory-assembled shaft unit 1.5 – 1.7 in the hull,
noting the installed dimension.
- - Screw the socket-head screw 1.10 into the collet 1.9. Fit the collet against the ange of the stern tube 1.8 in such a way that
the shaft 1.5 is still free to rotate. Tighten the screw in the collet.
- - Push the plastic coupling 1.11 onto the end of the shaft to a depth of about 8 mm.
Before installation, the electric motor must be suppressed and the connection cables soldered.
- - Fix the electric motor to the motor plate using the retaining screws supplied with it.
- - Place the prepared motor plate assembly in the hull, sliding the motor shaft into the plastic coupling to the point where the
distance between the end of the motor shaft and the end of the drive shaft is about 2 mm.
- - When you are condent that everything ts properly, with no lost motion, glue the motor plate unit permanently in the hull.
- - Caution: take care not to distort the hull! Use the deck plate 3.1 to check the shape of the moulding. You may need to make
minor adjustments to the outside shape of the plate 1.2.
- - Allow the glued joint between the motor plate 1.2 and hull 1.1 to set hard, then glue the stern tube 1.8 to the hull using StabilitExpress, taking care to produce a watertight joint.
- Separate the parts required from the machine-cut sheet marked „Deck“.
- Cut the rudder shaft 2.4 to a length of 45 mm.
- Glue the machine-cut sheet 2.1 in the hull, positioning it central and ush at the stern (it is essential to observe the stated
dimensio n).
- Now assemble the rudder guide components 2.2 - 2.10 in the hull, but do not glue them. Set the rudder straight and at rightangles to the hull.
- When you are condent that everything is positioned correctly, glue the machine-cut sheets 2.2 and 2.1 and the rudder guide
tube 2.3 to the hull and the machine-cut sheet 2.2 using Stabilit-Express; take care to produce watertight joints.
- Stick the rudder servo to the plate 1.2 as shown, using double-sided foam tape or similar.
- Position the servo output arm in such a way that the lever is angled towards the bow by about 15 - 20° when the servo is at
neutral (centre). Screw the tiller arm 2.9 to the rudder shaft, positioning its holes parallel to the holes in the servo output arm. It
is essential that the rudder should remain at right-angles to the hull.
Hang the linkage 2.13 into the holes of the rudder levers. Connect the two linkages with the adjusting ring and secure with the
screw 2.14a. The exact length of the linkage is also adjusted.
Note: you may nd that there is a height dierence in the linkage, depending on the type of servo you are using. The exibility of
the plastic parts caters for any discrepancy.
- Separate the deck 3.1 from the machine-cut sheet marked „Deck“.
- Cut the L-prole 3.2 – 3.4 to length, and glue the short edge to the underside of the deck opening all round. This produces the
coaming, which prevents spray entering the inside of the hull.
- The production process may result in minor dierences in the size of the hull. We therefore recommend the use of Stabilit-Express to glue the deck in place. Use strips of adhesive tape to prevent the deck shifting while the glue is hardening.
- Allow the glued joint between the deck and the hull to set hard, then peel o the adhesive tape and sand back any projecting
edges of the hull ush with the surface of the deck.
Note: please take particular care when sanding the top edge of the hull in order to avoid unnecessary scratches to the deck.
- We recommend painting the deck before installing the ttings.
Important: it is advisable to paint all the external parts separately, and only to x them to the deck when the paint has dried.
Where painted components are to be glued, carefully roughen the joint surface before applying glue.
- Separate the parts required from the machine-cut sheet marked „Superstructure“.
- Glue together the hatch components 3.5 – 3.6 as shown in the drawing. Cut the two levers 3.7 from 1.5 Ø brass rod as shown
in the dimensioned drawing. Paint the parts before gluing them to the hatch cover. The hatch cover can then be glued to the
deck.
- Make the bow bollard 3.8 from one of the double cruciform bollards 3.9 as shown in the drawing. Paint the two stern bollards
and the bow bollard, and glue them to the deck. Please observe the stated dimensions.
- 3.10 to 3.11 and place it in a suitable place on the back deck. When converting the Dolly as a towbar with the towing gear (order
no. ro1434), do not stick the ag to the position shown, so that the towing cable can move freely.
- Separate the parts required from the machine-cut sheet marked „Deck, ttings“.
- Glue parts 4.1 and 4.5 to each other at right-angles. Glue parts 4.2 – 4.4 to part 4.1 from the other side. Finally glue this sub-
assembly to the front of the base plate 4.6, keeping it ush.
- Glue part 4.7 to the base plate 4.6 from the rear, keeping it ush. Now glue both parts 4.8 (right and left) to parts 4.1, 4.7 and
4.6.
- Glue the 3 x 3 mm square prole 4.9 to the top edge of part 4.8, with the edges ush (resting on the coaming). Caution: curve
the strips slightly beforehand, to avoid placing part 4.8 under stress.
- Sand all the transitional areas carefully, referring also to the picture for Stage 4.1.
- Glue the engine cover plate 4.10, the walls 4.11 and 4.12 in place. It is a good idea to place the internal unit in the deck opening
to check the t. Protect the edges of the deck opening with adhesive tape to prevent the parts becoming stuck!
- Allow all the glued joints to set hard, then sand all the parts of the internal unit and paint them.
- Then t the clear lacquered plank cover 4.6a onto the part 4.6 and glue.
- Assemble the companionway steps 4.13 – 4.14, sand the assemblies smooth and paint them. Glue them to the walls on both
- Insert the railing stanchions 4.15 in the holes in the engine cover plate.
- Prepare the upper handrail 4.17 from the 1 mm Ø brass wire supplied in the kit, as shown in the illustration. It is important to set
the stanchions parallel to each other, and vertical relative to the motor cover plate.
- Cut the lower rails 4.16 from 0.8 Ø mm and check that they t through the railing stanchions.
- When the railing on the engine cover plate is complete, glue them using Acrylit glue.
When you have completed the railing assembly, it can be removed, cleaned up and painted, then glued permanently to the
engine cover plate.
- Cut the chain 4.19 to the appropriate length (it should sag slightly) and connect both ends. You may wish to apply a tiny drop of
glue at both ends to prevent the chain slipping o.
- Paint the two ventilators 4.18 and glue them in the prepared holes.
- Now glue the lifebelt 4.20 to the rear wall of the internal unit as shown in the illustration.
- Fix the steering wheel 4.21 to the control stand using the screw 4.22, and apply the instrument decal.
- Drill holes in the vacuum-moulded component (roof) 5.2 at the marked points, using the stated size of drill.
- Prepare the two handrails 5.13 (see dimensioned drawing) and the lamp support 5.9 from the 1.5 mm Ø brass rod supplied.
- Separate the lamp platform 5.10 from the laser-cut sheet marked „Deck“, and glue it to the wire support, spaced as stated.
- The individual roof components can now be painted.When preparing the navigation lights please note the following:
Green = right-hand side, as seen from the stern (starboard)
Red = left-hand side, as seen from the stern (port)
-
Now place the roof on the wheelhouse (sliding it forward into the slots as far as it will go). Mark the position of the holes for the
navigation lamps on the roof; the lighting system leads are routed through these holes later.
- The ttings can now be xed to the roof before it is glued to the wheelhouse.
- Place the internal unit in the hull, and temporarily slide the wheelhouse over the supports 4.9, ending ush against part 4.5 at
the front.
- The longitudinal plates 4.12 are provided slightly overlength to allow the builder to trim the parts to exact length to match the
wheelhouse. Mark the overlap at both ends, then cut parts 4.12 to length.
- Please check that the wheelhouse ts correctly, and ensure that the wheelhouse and the internal unit rest snugly on the deck
3.1 all round.
- Carefully tack the wheelhouse to the internal unit. Remove the whole assembly from the hull before gluing the parts together
permanently.
- Temporarily install the components, but do not x them in place permanently at this stage.
- Place the complete model boat in water, and check that the waterline is parallel to the surface. If this is not the case, you can
correct the model‘s attitude by re-positioning the RC system components.
- Cable B to the lighting units can be run from the receiver battery compartment, which is not used. If you wish, it is also possible
to install an On / O switch.
- Check the range of the radio control system before running the boat for the rst time. You may need to alter the position or
deployment of the receiver aerial to obtain adequate range.