RS2000 SYSTEM
Instruction Manual
Page 1
Several bowls can be made
from one blank with minimum
wastage
TCT SLICER RS205
The hollow ground nose of the tungsten carbide tip allows deep plunge cuts, at any
angle, to remove cones from bowls and vessels. The Slicer can also be used as a
heavy-duty parting tool. The Slicer should be mounted in the Main Handle with the
Side Handle assembled at a convenient position on the Slicer blade. It is
recommended that the side handle be placed in the VERTICAL position to
counteract downward forces.
Mounting Side Handle
The Side Handle requires Collar (RS203C) & Stud (RS203S) for use with Slicer or
Hooker. The components are quickly assembled and can be readily locked in any
convenient position.
Using the Slicer to produce several items from one blank
Traditional bowl turning techniques are usually wasteful in terms of material and
time, and become particularly uneconomic when using expensive exotic woods. The
following techniques enable several products to be made with minimum wastage.
Utilising the outside wastage
Making a picture or mirror frame
Fig 1.
A) Mount the blank securely to a faceplate or screwchuck.
B) Rough down to round with a suitable bowl gouge.
C) Cut a groove (say ¼” deep x ½” wide) to accommodate thickness of glass & backing plate.
D) Part in a little deeper at the inside edge of the groove.
E) Remove the outside waste, at an angle, with the Slicer.
Fig 2.
A) Mount a suitable spare block to the screwchuck (say ¾” thick).
B) Cut a rebate to suit the inside Ø of the frame and about 3/8” deep. NB. The edge of the
rebate should have a slight taper to ensure a good push-fit for the frame.
C) Push frame into woodchuck.
D) Shape the outside and front of frame.
E) Finally sand & polish.
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Turning several bowls from one blank
Fig 3. Having produced the picture / mirror frame, replace the bowl
blank and shape the outside. NB. The shape illustrated (fig.3)
assumes reversed holding with spigot chuck -alternatively, a
dovetailed recess could be cut to accommodate expanding dovetail
collets.
Fig 4. Illustrates a series of plunge cuts at various angles, with the
Slicer to 'cone' the inside. Begin with a 1" deep cut. Remove the
Slicer and make another cut to the side of the first cut and about 1"
deeper. Continue to make side-by-side cuts to penetrate to the
desired depth.(with comfortable clearance on both sides of the
Slicer!) The cone can be broken away when the root is down to
about ½" to ¾”Ø. If the grain runs parallel to the spindle, then the
root of the cone should be reduced to about ¼” to ½”Ø . Having
removed the cone, the inside of the bowl can be turned with a
gouge in the conventional manner.
Utilising the cone
Fig 5. Remount the cone by original holding method. Reshape the
outside to accommodate reversed chucking as before (Spigot /
Dovetail collets).
Fig 6. Resecure blank as Fig 4 and slice a cone from the centre as
before. Remove the cone and shape the inside. NB. This process
may be repeating several times depending on the diameter and
thickness of the original blank.
WARNING – DO NOT ATTEMPT TO 'CONE' WITH THE HOOKER
– THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS!
Resharpening the Slicer
The 400 grit Diamond Sharpening File RS224 provides a
safe and simple method of sharpening the tungsten carbide
tip. DO NOT attempt to sharpen the hollow flute! A few light
strokes across the TOP face of the tip is sufficient to restore
the cutting edge. Dip the Diamond File in water occasionally
during use.
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THE REVERSIBLE HOOKER RS210
This tool enables internal shapes to be cut safely. Hitherto, this work
was either impossible, extremely difficult or even dangerous! The
special hook design, fitted with the multi - purpose HSS Cutter RS222,
allows you to make both aggressive roughing cuts and also finishing
cuts. Alternatively, the Swivel Tip RS211 can be used (see below). The
Hooker has TWO seatings and is reversible for either inboard or
outboard work. The side handle can be assembled at a convenient
position on either side of the Hooker for right or left handed use.
IMPORTANT
The toolrest, as illustrated, should be far enough away from the work
to allow only the straight portion of the shank to make contact with
the toolrest!
The Hooker in use
Fig 1. The majority of wastewood can be removed quickly from the
outside with the Slicer. These rings could also be turned into
picture/mirror frames as shown on page 2.
Fig 2. Rough shape the outside and decide upon the method to be
used to hold the bottom. The illustration assumes the use of a 2"Ø
spigot.
Fig 3. Final shaping of the outside can be done after the work is
reversed.
Fig 4. Initial removal of internal waste can be done by plunge cutting
with the Slicer or alternatively with a saw tooth machine bit held in the
tailstock.
Extension Shank RS204
When working very deep vessels, it may be necessary to fit the
Extension Shank. This provides an extra 9½” reach. It may also be
necessary, in certain situations, to fit the Side Handle to the Extension
Shank rather than to the Hooker.
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Fig 5a. Rough out the majority of the inside using the small
aggressive tip of the HSS cutter -or use the Swivel Tip.
Fig 5b. The HSS cutter may be rotated by slackening the Allen cap
screw select the larger curves for finishing cuts.
Fig 6. The Sorby 977 calipers are recommended for measuring
wall thickness.
Sharpening the HSS Cutter - Fig 7
This is best achieved on the bench grinder. By grinding 'square across'
and in line with the centre of the wheel, the hollow grinding produces a
cutting edge on both sides. Alternatively, a few light strokes with the
Diamond File will be sufficient to restore the edge without having to
remove the cutter from the Hooker.
Using the Swivel Tip RS211 – Fig 8
The Swivel Tip is supplied with a semi-circular Cobalt Steel cutter and
longer No. 10 UNF Cap Screw for mounting to the Hooker. The nose
form is ground to coincide in shape and size with the clamping discs
and therefore allows the cutter to be set to remove a controlled
thickness of shaving. The clamping discs act as a depth stop for each
passing cut. The small radius point is best for aggressive roughing cuts.
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Dual Purpose Shank RS215
The Dual-Purpose Shank RS215 (as a scraper)
The Dual Purpose Shank mounts directly into the Side Handle RS203. The nose of
the shank is fitted with a No. 10 UNF Alien cap screw for holding the HSS Cutter
RS222. The 10° seating allows the shank to be held horizontally yet produces the
accepted working angle for scrapers.
Shear Scraping
Scrapers are normally produced from rectangular section material and, as such, are
used flat on the toolrest with the handle raised to produce the 'trailing angle' (Fig
1). By mounting the cutter to a round shank, shear scraping can be achieved. From
the horizontal position, simply rotate the shank through approx. 45° (Fig 2) - this
produces a slicing cut which gives a better finish and eliminates any tendency for
the scraper to dig-in! If, for any reason, the cutter should 'bite', then the round
shank will allow the tool to move SAFELY AWAY from the cut!
Use light cuts in a down-grain direction. The direction in which the scraper should
be moved is indicated in the two illustrations where the grain runs in opposite
directions (Figs 3&4).
The difference between cutting and scraping is that the angle between the upper
face of the blade and the surface being cut is greater than 90° when cutting (Fig 5)
but is less than 90° when scraping (Fig 6). Shear scraping is achieved when the
cutting edge is tilted to the side (Fig 7). This causes the shaving to slide down the
cutting edge rather than bounce off the blade in an upwards direction. This slicing
action leaves a much smoother surface than conventional scraping.
The Dual - Purpose Shank (as a Chatter-tool)
The Allen Cap Screw must be removed and replaced in the opposite side of the
shank.
NB. This serves TWO purposes:-
1) It prevents losing the Cap Screw.
2) The Cap Screw engages the slot in the Chattertool Collar and provides positive
forward location for the Collar. The 10° seating on the shank is also grooved to
accept the hardened spring steel chattertool cutters.
The Chattertool in use
Chattertool Cutters work best on the end grain of hardwoods but can also be used
on acrylics and soft, non-ferrous metals. Set the toolrest above centre and far
enough away from the workpiece (about 1½ to 2") to allow the shank to point
downwards and provide additional clearance for the cutter to vibrate (Fig 8). When
using the Chattertool for the first time, select the Pointed Cutter and allow the tip
to project about ¾” from the Collar. Aim to cut on centre and apply sufficient
pressure to set the cutter vibrating. You can use either the point or the side of the
cutter to produce varying designs. Experiment with different cutter lengths.
The following will also produce different patterns:-
1. Change rotational speed
2. Cuts on, above or below centre
3. Stationary or traverse cuts
4. Change shape of the cutter
With the above permutations an almost endless variety of patterns can be
achieved.
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Chattertool Design Variations
V Grooves
Using the cutter on
centre at several fixed
positions will give a
variety of patterns
depending upon length
of cutter and speed of
rotation.
Herringbone
V cuts made side-byside will give a
herringbone effect.
The finer patterns
come from slower
speeds or shorter ^
cutter projections. The
cutter is used on
centre.
Lattice
Side movement with
the blade turned
through 45° allows t to
vibrate diagonally. Use
with light pressure and
fast traverse to create
a delicate woven
pattern.
Linear Patterns
Using the same speed and
cutter length will produce a
finer texture at B than at A
since the surface speed is
slower. A coarser texture C
comes from faster rotation
and/or longer cutter
projection.
Spirals (Anti-clockwise)
Cutter used ABOVE centre.
When cutting above centre,
work from left to right to
prevent any possible kickback. Use right hand
straight side of cutter
parallel to turned surface.
Spirals (Clockwise)
Using left hand side of
cutter with cutter used
BELOW centre the spirals
run in opposite direction to
those above.
Chatterwork is so effective and such good fun to do that you may be tempted to put it everywhere but it is best used
sparingly with plenty of smooth surrounding surface to highlight it. Before attempting to apply chatterwork to finished
projects, practice on a scrap of end-grain hardwood. The more you do it, the better you will know how to achieve the
pattern you want. when you make a pattern that you like, note the variables involved so that you can recreate on
future projects..
Sharpening the Chattertool Cutters
The cutting edges are ground at 90°. With the handle raised
(as fig 8), the burr, produced during grinding, cuts like a small
scraper. The Square, Pointed & Domed ends should present little
difficulty when regrinding. Ideally, a formed wheel should be used
when grinding the Hollow cutter. If this should not be available ,
use a slipstone or alternatively wrap a piece of abrasive paper
around a 3/8Ø dowel and work across the nose of the cutter. 100
grit aluminium oxide paper will produce a sufficient burr.
FOR SAFETY – ALWAYS WEAR EYE
PROTECTION
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