Roadmaster BrakeMaster 9000, BrakeMaster 9060, 98300 Installation Instructions Manual

BrakeMaster 9000 and 9060

Second Motorhome Kit

part number 98300

Installation Instructions

ROADMASTER, Inc. • 6110 N.E. 127th Ave. • Vancouver, WA 98682

800-669-9690 • Fax [phone] • roadmasterinc.com

853811-04 12.17 © 2007-2017 ROADMASTER, Inc. All rights reserved.

Time Tested • Time Proven

Welcome to the ROADMASTER family!

hese instructions have been prepared to acquaint you with the installation of your BrakeMaster second

T

motorhome kit, and to provide you with important safety information.
Read these instructions, as well as the owner’s manual and all accompanying literature, completely. Understand
how to install and operate your BrakeMaster and carefully follow the instructions and safety precautions.
Your BrakeMaster second motorhome kit has a one-year limited warranty. To qualify for your warranty, fill out
and return the enclosed product registration card within 30 days of purchase.
We thank you for your patronage and greatly appreciate your discerning taste.

Table of Contents

Wiring diagrams ................................inside front cover

Safety definitions ....................................................... 1

Before you begin the installation

(installer’s checklist) .............................................. 2

Wire the air compressor ......................................... 2-4

Install the proportioning valve ................................. 5-8

Bleed the brakes .................................................. 9-11

Wire the proportioning valve .................................... 12

Install the air lines ................................................... 13

Install the motorhome monitor system ..................... 14

Final connections and system test ..................... 15-16

Troubleshooting .................................................. 17-18

IMPORTANT NOTICE!

Safety Definitions

These instructions contain information that is very important to know and understand. This information is
provided for safety and to prevent equipment problems. To help recognize this information, observe the following
symbols:

CAUTION

WARNING indicates a potentially hazardous situ-

ation which, if not avoided, could result in property
damage, serious personal injury, or even death.

CAUTION indicates a potentially hazardous situ­ation which, if not avoided, may result in property
damage, or minor or moderate personal injury.

CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol
indicates a potentially hazardous situation which,
if not avoided, may result in property damage.

NOTE
Refers to important information and is placed in italic
type. It is recommended that you take special notice of
these items.

All illustrations and specifications contained herein are based on the latest
information available at the time of publication. ROADMASTER, Inc. reserves
the right to make changes, at any time, without notice, in material, specifica­tions and models, or to discontinue models.

1

Before you begin the installation…

1. Check online at the ROADMASTER web site —
www.roadmasterinc.com — for vehicle-specific informa­tion. Select ‘Vehicle-Specific Info,’ then ‘Supplemental
Braking Systems.’ Enter the vehicle make, model and
year, then scroll down the page.

2. If the motorhome brake line has metric fittings it
will be necessary to use a metric-to-standard T-fitting
to attach the proportioning valve. This fitting is not
supplied in the kit.
Identify the size of the metric brake line before
the installation. If it is 10 or 12 millimeters, contact
ROADMASTER — T-fittings in both sizes are available.
The 10 millimeter T-fitting (part number 7923) fits
virtually all metric brake lines for this application; the
part number for the 12 millimeter fitting is 7921.
In the unlikely event that the brake line is not 10
or 12 millimeters, we recommend you contact a local
hose and fitting shop or other contractor and arrange to
have the brake line cut and flared so that the standard
brake line tees supplied in the kit can be installed.

3. If the motorhome has a one-piece brake line (i.e.,
there are no brake line unions), or if the brake line

unions are difficult to access, a short length of steel
brake line will be necessary to connect the proportion­ing valve. (See “Install the Proportioning Valve.”) This
section of steel brake line is not supplied; contact an
auto parts store.

These instructions pertain to the initial installa-

tion of the second motorhome kit only. Installation
instructions for the complete BrakeMaster system
(including instructions for all components in the
towed vehicle) are contained in the original instal­lation instructions.
Operating instructions for the BrakeMaster sys­tem are contained in the owner’s manual.
For the most recent versions of the instructions
and manual, visit www.roadmasterinc.com.
Read the appropriate instructions before install­ing or operating the BrakeMaster system. Failure to
understand how to install or operate BrakeMaster
could result in property damage, personal injury or
even death.

Wire the air compressor

1. Before wiring the air compressor (Figure 1), first
choose a mounting location — the air compressor as­sembly must be installed in a clean, dry area (ideally, a
storage compartment), within 20 feet of the motorhome
starting battery.
The compressor is attached with four screws — one
at each corner of the air compressor housing. The sur­face and underlying material at these four points must
provide sufficient support to hold the compressor firmly

in place.
The compressor may be mounted horizontally or
vertically; however, it must be mounted so that the
drain valve (Figure 1) is pointing down. Condensation
in the air tank must be drained periodically, through this
valve. A short length of rubber hose is included for this
purpose — the hose can be attached to the valve and
routed to the exterior of the motorhome. If possible,

continued on next page

Figure 1

2

Wire the air compressor

continued from preceding page

choose a mounting location for the compressor where
a ½" hole can be drilled near the drain valve, through
to the exterior of the motorhome.

CAUTION

Do not mount the air compressor…

• in a slide-out, or near moving components — the
wiring and/or the compressor may detach.

• near any heat source such as the engine, ex­haust system or muffler — excessive heat will dam­age the wiring, tubing or other components, which
will cause the compressor to fail.

• where it will be exposed to the elements — if
the air compressor is mounted near the front grille,
for example, it may draw an excessive amount of
dirt, dust or road debris into the air tank and then
into the air lines, which may damage components
connected to the air lines.
Failure to follow these instructions may cause
non-warranty damage to the air compressor, the air
cylinder or other components of the braking sys­tem.

2. Position the air compressor at the mounting loca­tion you have chosen. Using the four pre-drilled holes
in the housing (one at each corner) as templates, drill
four pilot holes. Before drilling, make certain you will
not damage any components on the other side.
Do not attach the air compressor now — in most
cases, it will be considerably easier to connect the wir­ing (and, later, the air lines) with the compressor loose.

3. Route the bare end of the bonded pair of black and
red wires from the motorhome starting battery to the
air compressor. (If the motorhome has more than one
starting battery, route the wire from either battery.)

battery may be near capacity. Any additional power
draw may blow the fuse(s) to electrical components
already connected to the auxiliary battery.

Avoid moving parts (slide-outs, sliding generators,
sliding battery trays, etc.), sharp edges or “hot” com­ponents, such as the engine or exhaust system, as
you route the wire from the starting battery to the air
compressor. Where appropriate, use one or more of
the included wire ties to secure the wire in place.

4. At the air compressor, cut the bonded pair of black
and red wires to length. Using one of the small ring ter­minals, attach the red wire to the terminal block screw
opposite the pre-attached red wire (Figure 2.)
Next, use another small ring terminal to attach the
black wire to the terminal block screw opposite the
pre-attached black wires (Figure 2).
Note: due to manufacturing variances, the preat-

tached red and black wires may be mounted to different
terminal block screws than those shown in Figure 2. If
this is the case, match color to color — red wire opposite
red wire, and black wire opposite black wires.

5. At the starting battery, insert the supplied 20-amp

continued on next page

Figure 2

CAUTION

Do not use an auxiliary (“house”) battery as a
power source for the air compressor — the auxiliary

Figure 3

3

Wire the air compressor

continued from preceding page

ATC fuse into one of the provided fuse holders. The
fuse holders are attached to a short length of wire,
with a butt connector at one end and a ring terminal
on the other (Figure 3).
Use the butt connector to attach the short length of
wire with the fuse holder and the 20-amp ATC fuse to
the end of the red wire. (See the electrical schematic
on the inside front cover.)

6. At the starting battery, attach one of the large ring
terminals to the end of the black wire.
The black wire will be connected to the negative
terminal of the starting battery; the red wire will be
connected to the positive terminal. To eliminate the pos­sibility of personal injury or equipment damage, do not
connect the wires until the installation is complete.

The 20-amp fuse must be installed at the positive

terminal. If a short circuit develops and the fuse
is not in place, the battery and other equipment
may be damaged; additionally, sparks may cause
an electrical fire or a battery explosion.

7. Choose the most convenient ignition (switched)
power source from the motorhome — any 12VDC+
source which is powered only when the motorhome’s
ignition is turned on. Route the bare end of the supplied
length of blue wire from this point to the air compressor.
As before, avoid moving parts, sharp edges or “hot”
components such as the engine or exhaust system as
you route the blue wire to the air compressor. Where
appropriate, use wire ties to secure the wire in place.

8. At the air compressor, cut the blue wire to length.
Using one of the small ring terminals, attach the blue
wire to the terminal block screw labeled “blue wire” in
Figure 2.

Note: due to manufacturing variances, the preat­tached blue wire may be mounted to a different terminal
block screw than the one shown in Figure 2. If this is
the case, match color to color — blue wire opposite blue
wire.

9. Insert the remaining 10-amp ATC fuse into the sec­ond provided fuse holder. As in step 5, attach the fuse
holder and ring terminal to the end of the blue wire with
the butt connector (Figure 3).

of personal injury or equipment damage, do not connect
the blue wire until the installation is completed.

CAUTION

In order to prevent damage from a short circuit, the
10-amp fuse must be within six inches of the electri­cal connection. If the 10-amp fuse is farther than six
inches, a short circuit may cause significant damage
to the towed vehicle’s electrical system, an electrical
fire, or other consequential, non-warranty damage.

The blue wire will be connected to the ignition power
source you chose in step 7. To eliminate the possibility

4

Install the proportioning valve

If the motorhome is raised at any time during
the installation, it must be on a hoist or safely and
securely supported and blocked.
If the motorhome is equipped with an air suspen­sion system and a line to the air suspension system
is inadvertently opened, or if the motorhome’s air
suspension system is turned off, the motorhome
will lower to the ground.
The motorhome may unexpectedly roll forward
or backward, especially if it is on an incline, if it
is not blocked.

1. The proportioning valve (Figure 13) will be installed

on the frame of the motorhome chassis, and attached
to the brake line.
First, choose a location for the proportioning valve
— find the steel brake line that is routed along the
frame. If the motorhome is a Class A, there may be a
brake union (Figure 11) every ten to 15 feet, where two

sections of brake line are connected. The proportioning
valve must be installed near one of these brake unions.
However, some Class A motorhomes, and most
Class C motorhomes, have a one-piece brake line,
from the front to the rear. There are no brake unions
on these motorhomes.
If there are no brake unions, or the brake unions are
difficult to access, there are two installation options:

• Follow the steel brake line forward, until it joins with
another fitting. This is the point where you can tee into
the brake line, as described later.

• Follow the steel brake line back, until it joins a rub­ber brake hose (Figure 12). This junction is the second
possible location to tee into the brake line.
Since the brake tee will not thread onto the rub­ber brake hose, it will be necessary to attach a short
section of steel brake line and install the brake tee as
shown in Figure 13. This section of steel brake line is
not supplied; contact an auto parts store.
continued on next page

Figure 11

Figure 12

Figure 13

5

Install the proportioning valve

continued from preceding page

Loop the section of steel brake line, as shown

in Figure 13, so that it can expand and contract to
absorb road vibrations. Otherwise, this section of
brake line may detach or break, which will cause
a loss of brake pressure.

CAUTION

If you are installing BrakeMaster in a Ford Class
C motorhome, tee into the front hydraulic brake
line. The rear hydraulic brake line does not supply
sufficient hydraulic pressure to brake the towed
vehicle properly.

2. Determine the best location to attach the proportion­ing valve bracket, based on the following:
A. There must be adequate room on the frame
to mount the proportioning valve assembly (Figure 14)
securely in place.
B. When the proportioning valve is installed, the
bleeder valve (Figure 14) must point up.
C. The proportioning valve and its attachments
must not interfere with the movement or proper opera­tion of any chassis components.
Also, there must be sufficient clearance to bolt the
proportioning valve bracket to the frame without caus­ing damage to any other component.
D. The proportioning valve assembly must be in-
stalled close enough to the motorhome’s brake line to
allow the included section of brake line to reach the
brake union (or other point you have chosen to tee into
the brake line).

Figure 14

E. The closer the proportioning valve is to the air
compressor, the less air line will have to be routed
between them later.

The proportioning valve must be mounted with

the bleeder valve pointing up. The valve will not­bleed the brake system if it is not pointing up,
which will cause brake failure.

3. Before attaching the proportioning valve, first re­move any residual vacuum from the motorhome’s brake
power booster (if the motorhome is so equipped) — ap­ply the motorhome brake several times, with the engine
off.

4. Next, remove the master cylinder reservoir cover
and (if necessary) fill the reservoir with brake fluid, up
to the maximum marking. Reattach the cover.

Wear appropriate eye protection when work­ing on the brake system. If brake fluid comes into
contact with your eyes, follow the manufacturer’s
instructions.
Failure to follow these instructions may cause
severe eye injury.

Note: If the motorhome brake line has metric fit­tings it will be necessary to use a metric-to-standard
T-fitting to attach the proportioning valve. This fitting
is not supplied in the kit.
Identify the size of the metric brake line before the
installation. If it is 10 or 12 millimeters, contact ROAD­MASTER — T-fittings in both sizes are available.
The 10 millimeter T-fitting (part number 7923) fits
virtually all metric brake lines for this application; the
part number for the 12 millimeter fitting is 7921.
In the unlikely event that the brake line is not 10
or 12 millimeters, we recommend you contact a local
hose and fitting shop or other contractor and arrange to
have the brake line cut and flared so that the standard
brake line tees supplied in the kit can be installed.

5. Position a bucket or pan under the brake union (or
other point you have chosen to tee into the brake line)
to catch any brake fluid.
Clean any dirt or debris away from the brake union
and use two open end or line wrenches to disconnect
both ends of the brake line from the union. (It may be
necessary to soak the connections with penetrating oil
to break them free.)
Do not bend the brake line, or damage the threads.
When the brake line is disconnected from the union,
plug the line going toward the master cylinder to pre­vent any further loss of brake fluid. A rubber plug (part
number 450011) is included in the kit for this purpose.

continued on next page

6

Install the proportioning valve

continued from preceding page

CAUTION

Check the brake fluid level often after the brake
line is disconnected, and while the proportioning
valve is being installed. Add brake fluid as neces­sary to prevent the brake fluid level from falling low
enough to allow air bubbles into the master cylin­der. If air is allowed into the brake system from the
master cylinder, all brakes, and any components
connected to the hydraulic brake system, must be
bled.

6. At the mounting location you have chosen, use the
two pre-drilled holes in the proportioning valve bracket
(Figure 15) as templates to mark and drill two 3/8" holes
through the frame.
Use the two supplied 3/8" bolts and nuts to attach
the proportioning valve to the frame, as shown in Figure

15.

7. Use a ring terminal to ground the solenoid valve
(Figure 16) by connecting one of the black wires from
the solenoid valve to any good chassis ground.

8. Determine the correct size of brake tee to use (both
¼" and 3/16" tees are included) and then connect it to
the two factory steel brake lines, as shown in Figure

16.
Note: if the brake tee is pointing up when the brake

lines are connected, less brake fluid will be lost.

9. Next, connect the brake tee (Figure 16) to the port
(Figure 16) on the proportioning valve, with one of the
provided sections of brake line (Figure 16). Two sizes of
brake line are provided for this purpose — ¼" and 3/16".
A. If the motorhome has ¼" brake lines — thread it

into the fitting on the port on the proportioning valve.
B. If the motorhome has 3/16" brake lines — screw
the flair adaptor (Figure 17) onto the fitting on the port
on the proportioning valve. Then, attach the brake line
to the flair adaptor, as shown in Figure 17.
Note: the port can be rotated up to one full turn

counterclockwise for easier connection to the section
of brake line — hold the bottom section of the valve
(Figure 16) in place with adjustable pliers. With another

continued on next page

— END VIEW —

Figure 15

— SIDE VIEW —

Figure 16

7

Install the proportioning valve

continued from preceding page

pair of pliers, turn the top section (Figure 16) until the
port is at the correct position.
Although it has been unthreaded, the top section
of the proportioning valve will be held in place by the
brake line.

10. Connect the section of brake line to the tee.
In most cases, it will be necessary to bend the sec­tion of brake line — use extreme care not to kink the
brake line. If the brake line is kinked, it must be re­placed with another section of brake line.

If the section of brake line between the propor-

tioning valve and brake tee is kinked, replace it
with another section of brake line.
A kink in the brake line will cause brake failure,
which may result in property damage, personal in­jury or even death.

11. The proportioning valve is now installed.

Note: you will test the system after all components
have been installed. However, if you choose to test
the proportioning valve now, make certain that the mo­torhome engine is turned on.

The process of installing the valve has allowed air
to enter the brake system. The air in the proportioning
valve, as well as the air in the brake lines, must be bled
before the motorhome is driven.

12. To bleed the air out of the proportioning valve,
loosen the bleeder valve (Figure 15) at the top of the
proportioning valve with a ¼" wrench. Do not loosen
the ½" fitting below it.
When brake fluid becomes visible at the top of the
proportioning valve, tighten the bleeder valve. Wipe
away the excess brake fluid from the top of the pro­portioning valve with a dry, clean rag.
After the air is bled from the proportioning valve, as
described above, proceed to the next section — “Bleed
the brakes.”

After the proportioning valve is installed, bleed
the air from the valve (as described above), as well
as the motorhome’s brake system, before driving
the motorhome.
Failure to bleed the brakes will cause a reduction
in braking efficiency or a complete loss of brake
pressure.

Figure 17

FOR 3/8"

BRAKE LINES

8

Bleed the brakes

After the proportioning valve is installed, bleed

the air from the valve (as described in step 12 un­der “Install the proportioning valve”), as well as
the motorhome’s brake system, before driving the
motorhome.
Failure to bleed the brakes will cause a reduction
in braking efficiency or a complete loss of brake
pressure, which may result in property damage,
personal injury or even death.

Cautions and warnings

Follow the caution and warning below whether you
choose the specific brake line method, the traditional
method, or either of the one-person methods.

CAUTION

Check the brake fluid level often while bleeding
the brakes. Add brake fluid as necessary to prevent
the brake fluid level from falling low enough to al­low air bubbles into the master cylinder.
If air is allowed into the brake system from the
master cylinder, all brakes, and all components con­nected to the hydraulic brake system, must be bled.
Failure to follow these instructions may result
in a complete loss of braking pressure, which may
cause property damage, personal injury or even
death.

Wear appropriate eye protection when working on
the brake system. If brake fluid comes into contact
with your eyes, follow the manufacturer’s instruc­tions.
Failure to follow these instructions may cause
severe eye injury.

For ABS (anti-lock braking systems)…

The front of an ABS system can be bled in the
same manner as the traditional method described be­low. However, the rear brakes must be bled with a pres­surized bleeder system, or, the hydraulic accumulator
must be fully charged.
The hydraulic accumulator can be charged by start­ing the engine.

Specific brake line method

This method bleeds the air from only one wheel cyl­inder — one of the cylinders on the brake line with the
proportioning valve.
Use the following instructions only if air has not been
allowed into the brake lines from the master cylinder.
If air has entered the brake lines through the master
cylinder, you must bleed all brake lines, and all compo­nents connected to the hydraulic brake system — follow
the instructions under “Traditional method” (below).
Installing the BrakeMaster proportioning valve will
typically allow only a small amount of air to enter only
one of the motorhome’s brake lines. However, it must
travel from the proportioning valve to a wheel cylinder
before it can be released — in some cases, a distance
of 30 or more feet.
It is necessary to draw enough brake fluid to pull
the air to the wheel cylinder. The amount of brake fluid
that must be released will vary from one motorhome to
another, depending on the distance from the proportion­ing valve to the wheel cylinder.
Which wheel cylinder you will bleed depends on the
type of motorhome — for Class C motorhomes, bleed the
front wheel cylinder on the brake line with the propor­tioning valve; for Class A motorhomes, bleed the rear
wheel cylinder on the brake line with the proportioning
valve.
This method requires:

• an assistant (to pump the brake pedal)

• a box-end wrench suitable for the vehicle’s bleeder
screws (An offset wrench allows the most movement).

• a supply of brake fluid

• a disposable container

• a length of clear plastic tubing to fit over the bleed­er screws (The tubing must have an inner diameter
which will allow it to seal over the bleeder screws).

1. First, remove the master cylinder reservoir cover
and fill the reservoir with brake fluid (if necessary) up
to the maximum marking. Reattach the cover.
Check the brake fluid level frequently while bleeding
the brakes.

2. Loosen the bleeder screw at the wheel cylinder.
Remove the rubber cap (if present).

3. Position the box-end wrench over the bleeder screw.

4. Place one end of the clear plastic tubing over the
nipple of the bleeder screw, and place the other end

continued on next page

9

Bleed the brakes

Specific brake line method

continued from previous page

of the tubing into the disposable container.

5. Instruct the assistant to “apply.” The assistant should
pump the brake pedal three times, then hold the pedal
down firmly, and respond with “applied.”

6. Loosen the bleeder screw with a brief quarter turn,
just enough to allow a solid stream of brake fluid to
flow through the tubing. (The brake pedal will “fall” to
the floorboard as the bleeder screw is opened. Instruct
the assistant in advance not to release the brakes until
instructed.)
Watch for air bubbles in the brake fluid as it empties
into the disposable container. This is the air that was
allowed into the system when the proportioning valve
was installed.

7. When these air bubbles have emptied into the con­tainer, close the bleeder screw by tightening it gently.

8. Instruct the assistant to “release” the brakes.
Note: do not release the brake pedal while the bleed-

er screw is open — air will be pulled into the system.

The assistant should respond with “released.”

9. Depending on the distance from the proportioning
valve to the wheel cylinder, it may be necessary to
repeat the “apply” and “release” sequence. Continue
to do so until air bubbles are no longer present.
Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder
reservoir after each sequence. Add fluid, as necessary,
to keep the level at the maximum marking.
When the brake line has been bled, check and refill
the master cylinder reservoir again, if necessary.

10. Replace the rubber cap you removed earlier (if one
was present).

11. Inspect the bleeder screw and other fittings for leaks.
Correct, if necessary. Inspect the proportioning valve
and the brake line fittings at the six points indicated in
Figure 11 and correct, if necessary.

12. Depress and release the brake pedal several times
— it should feel firm and solid when it is depressed. If

the brake pedal does not provide firm resistance, there
is air in the brake line. Bleed the brake line again, as
described above.

If the brake pedal does not provide firm resistance

after the brakes have been bled, bleed the brake lines
again. Do not drive the motorhome until the brake
pedal provides firm resistance when it is depressed.
The brakes will not function at full capacity, or
may not function at all, with air in the lines. Insuf­ficient brake pressure may result in property dam­age, personal injury or even death.

Traditional method

Use this method if air has been allowed into the
brake lines through the master cylinder. The procedure
is identical to the “Specific brake line method” above,
except that all wheel cylinders, and any components
connected to the hydraulic brake system, must be bled.
This method also requires an assistant, and the same
tools described under “Specific brake line method.”

1. The sequence of bleeding all brake lines is deter­mined by the location of the lines in relation to the
master cylinder — in general, always bleed the brake
line farthest from the master cylinder first, then the other
brake line in the same half of the circuit just bled:
If you know that the brake system is split front to
rear, as is the case with many rear wheel drive vehicles,
the sequence is as follows:

1. right rear

2. left rear

3. right front

4. left front
If you know that the brake system is split diagonally,
as is the case with many smaller front wheel drive ve­hicles, the sequence is as follows:

1. right rear

2. left front

3. left rear

4. right front

2. Follow the procedures under steps 1 through 12
under “Specific brake line method” (above) for all wheel
cylinders, and any components connected to the hy­draulic brake system.

10

Figure 11

One-person methods

There are a number of commercially-available prod­ucts which allow one person to bleed the brake lines.
They use two general methods — vacuum bleeding and
pressurized bleeding
Vacuum bleeding systems use a vacuum to draw
the air out of the brake system, eliminating the need
for an assistant. Typically, a tube runs from the bleeder
valve to a sealed container. Another tube runs from the

continued on next page

Bleed the brakes

One-person methods

continued from previous page

container to a hand-held pump.
When the bleeder valve is opened, the pump draws
the brake fluid and air bubbles out of the brake line and
into the container.
If you use this method, follow the same sequence of
wheel cylinders as described in the traditional method.
Pressurized bleeding systems are used by many
professional mechanics. These systems attach to the
top of the master cylinder reservoir and pressurize the
hydraulic fluid in the brake lines, eliminating the need
for an assistant.

11

Wire the proportioning valve

The solenoid valve (Figure 9) on the proportioning
valve allows air to pass into the BrakeMaster system
each time the motorhome’s brake pedal is depressed.
The solenoid valve will allow air to pass only when it
receives an electrical signal from the motorhome brake
light system.
Where you connect the solenoid valve to the motor­home depends upon the type of brake light system in
the motorhome. Compare the motorhome’s brake and
turn lights to Figures 12 and 13.

1. If the motorhome has a separate brake and turn
signal system (Figure 12), connect the remaining
black wire extending from the solenoid valve to the
motorhome’s brake light wire. The brake light wire can
usually be located in the wiring harness that runs along
the frame; the connection can be made at any conve­nient point.
Refer to the inside front cover for a wiring schematic.

2. If the motorhome has a combined brake and turn
signal system (Figure 13), attach the included butt con­nector to the end of the remaining wire extending from
the solenoid valve, and attach the length of included
wire to the other end of the butt connector.
Route the wire from the solenoid valve to the brake
light wire, under the dashboard of the motorhome. With
a test light, find the “cold” side of the brake light switch
— the “cold” side of the switch does not register voltage
unless the brakes are applied. With a 12-volt meter,
verify that you have found 12 VDC+.
Cut the brake light wire, a few inches downstream
from the “cold” side of the brake light switch. Cut the
wire from the solenoid valve to length, then attach it to
the brake light wire with another butt connector.
Refer to the inside front cover for a wiring schematic.
Ensure that the wire will not present an obstacle
or hazard to the motorhome driver, or interfere with
the operation of the vehicle. Use one or more of the
included wire ties, if necessary, to secure the wire out
of the way.
Note: connect the wire from the solenoid valve to the

brake light wire before the turn signal switch (located
in the steering column). If the wire is connected after
the turn signal switch, BrakeMaster will not function
properly.

Figure 12

Figure 13

12

Install the air lines

1. Find a suitable location at the rear of the motorhome,
near the center, to attach the preassembled female
quick coupler (with an orange shield base — Figure 14).
Attach the bracket with two of the supplied ¼" nuts and
bolts, with the female quick coupler pointing away from
the motorhome.
Note: the weather covers will prevent dirt or debris

from entering the lines. Keep the fittings covered when
the braking system is not in use.

2. Route the provided length of air line from the “in”
compression fitting on the air compressor (Figure 1) to
the “in” compression fitting on the proportioning valve
(Figure 8).
Tape the ends of the air line and avoid moving parts,
sharp edges or “hot” components such as the engine
or the exhaust system. Do not kink the air line, or bend
it to the extent that it crimps or creases.

CAUTION

Do not position the air line closer than two feet
from any heat source. The heat will soften the plas­tic, which will cause the air line to rupture.
If the air line is ruptured, the supplemental brak­ing system will not function.
Do not kink the air line, or bend it to the extent
that it crimps or creases — air pressure will be sub­stantially reduced, or blocked entirely, at the kink
in the line.
If the air pressure is reduced, the supplemental
braking system will not function, or may only func­tion intermittently.

Where appropriate, use one or more of the included
wire ties to secure the air line in place.

3. Trim the air line to length and connect it to the “in”
compression fitting on the air compressor, and to the
“in” compression fitting on the proportioning valve — first,
if necessary, trim each end of the air line, to make a
smooth and straight cut. Then slide the compression
nut and the ferrule (Figure 14) over the air line. Position
the ferrule ¼" from the end of the air line. Next, slide
one of the brass inserts (Figure 14) into the end of the
line.
Note: if the brass inserts are omitted, the fittings will

not be airtight.

Now, push the air line into the compression fitting,
as far as it can go. Then push the ferrule into the com­pression fitting, and tighten the compression nut onto
the fitting.
Note: if the compression nut is overtightened, the

fitting will not be airtight. After completing the instal­lation, check all the fittings for air leaks — see “Final
connections and system test.”
Note: if the air line is connected to the “out” com­pression fitting on the proportioning valve, no air can
pass through the valve, and the BrakeMaster system
will not function.

4. With the air lines attached, position the air compres­sor over the four pilot holes you drilled earlier, and use
the provided screws to secure the compressor in place.

5. Next, route the remaining length of air line from
the “out” compression fitting on the proportioning valve
(Figure 9) to the female quick coupler you attached in
step 1 (above).
As described above, tape the ends of the air line
and avoid damaging the line as you route it.
Trim the air line to length and connect it to both
compression fittings. Use the same method described
in step 3 (above).

6. Check to make certain that the handle on the air
tank drain valve (Figure 15) is closed.

CAUTION

The handle on the air tank drain valve should
only be opened to drain the air tank. If the handle
is open during towing, the air compressor will run
constantly, which may damage the compressor.

Figure 15

Figure 14

13

Install the motorhome monitor system

Step A

Wire the motorhome

Note: Some motorhomes are manufactured with aux­iliary wires pre-strung from the rear of the motorhome
to the dashboard, for aftermarket accessories such as
this. Call the manufacturer.

1. Attach the end of the black wire with the female bul­let connector to the back of the motorhome, near the
female quick coupler you attached in step 1, “Install
the air lines.”
Attach the connector with one or more of the in­cluded wire ties. Allow enough slack so that a male
bullet connector can be plugged into and out of it.

2. Once the female bullet connector is attached,
route the wire from the back of the motorhome to the
underside of the dashboard. Avoid lines, hoses, mov­ing parts (slideouts, sliding generators, sliding battery
trays) or “hot” components such as exhaust systems.
Where appropriate, use wire ties to secure the wire to
the undercarriage.

Step B

Attach the LED

1. Chose an area on the motorhome dashboard to
mount the LED. Look for a mounting point away from
pre-existing wires or components, where the LED can
be easily seen by the driver.

2. Drill a 5/16-inch hole through the dashboard at the
point you have chosen. Before drilling, make certain
you will not damage any components on the other side.

3. Center the LED decal (Figure 16) over the hole, and
press it down. Or, you may chose to omit the decal,
depending on your preferences.

4. From the top of the dashboard, slide the LED
through the hole, wires first, until the base of the bulb
(Figure 16) is flush to the top of the dash.

5. From the underside of the dash, fit both of the wires
through the speed nut (Figure 16). Then push the speed
nut up, against the dash, to secure the LED in place.

6. Connect to power — Trim the black wire, which you
routed from the back of the motorhome. (Save the ex­cess; you may use it in the next step.) Then, connect
the black wire to the red LED wire, using one of the
included butt connectors.

7. Connect to ground — Connect the ground wire from
the LED to any good chassis ground, using the included
ring terminal. (If necessary, use any excess wire from
the preceding step to extend the length of the ground
wire.)

1. Connect the male and female quick couplers at
either end of the air line to the corresponding quick
couplers on the motorhome and towed vehicle.
Push the couplers together until the housing (Figure

14) on the female coupler slides forward and ‘clicks,’
locking the couplers together.
(To disconnect the couplers, pull back on the hous­ing on the female coupler until the couplers release.)

CAUTION

Never pull back on the housing to connect the
couplers — this will prevent the couplers from lock­ing. The couplers may disconnect during towing,
preventing the supplemental braking system from
functioning.

2. Connect the male bullet connectors at either end
of the monitor wire to the female bullet connectors on
the motorhome and towed vehicle monitor wiring har­nesses.

Figure 16

Step C

Connect the patch cord between

the motorhome and the towed vehicle

Note: The patch cord is the six-foot length of air line
and wiring, covered in blue plastic loom.

14

Final connections and system test

Step A

Connect the air compressor to power

1. Now that all components are installed, connect the
air compressor to power — connect the red wire (posi­tive terminal) and black wire (negative terminal) which
you routed from the air compressor to the motorhome’s
starting battery. (Refer to steps 5 and 6 under “Wire
the air compressor.”)

2. Attach the blue wire which you routed from the air
compressor to the ignition (switched) power source you
selected in step 7 under “Wire the air compressor” —
use the ring terminal at the end of the short length of
wire with the fuse holder and 10-amp fuse.

Step B

Test the system

CAUTION

Always deplete the stored vacuum in the towed
vehicle’s power brake system before towing — pump
the brake pedal several times.
Depending on the make and model of the towed
vehicle, it may be necessary to pump the brake
pedal repeatedly to deplete the vacuum.
If the vacuum is not released, the supplemental
braking system will apply excessive braking force
when it is activated, which will cause severe tire
and/or brake system damage to the towed vehicle.

1. The motorhome and towed vehicle must be station­ary for the system test, and ready for towing.
A. All components of the braking system must be
properly connected —

• Connect and attach the tow bar to both vehicles.
Then, according to the manufacturer, make all ad­justments necessary to prepare the vehicle for towing.
These adjustments may include: turning the igni­tion key to the ‘tow' position; pulling fuses; disconnect­ing the battery; and setting the transmission to a par­ticular gear or in a particular sequence.
Refer to the owner's manual, or call the dealership
or the manufacturer for vehicle-specific information.

CAUTION

To prevent the towed vehicle from rolling, con­nect and attach the tow bar to both vehicles before
shifting the towed vehicle’s transmission into the
proper gear for towing.

• Connect the patch cord between the two vehicles—
both the air line quick couplers and the motorhome
monitor bullet connectors.

• Attach the air cylinder to the brake pedal and
mounting post (or seat bracket adaptor) — see “Install
the air cylinder anchor plate” in the complete Brake­Master installation instructions.

(For the most recent copy of the instructions, visit www.
roadmasterinc.com. Select ‘Support.')
Connect the male quick coupler at the end of the
air line on the air cylinder to the female quick coupler
at the end of the air line mounted in the passenger
compartment.

• Clip one end of the steel break away cable to the
break away pin; clip the other end of the cable to the
rear of the motorhome, close to the center.
B. Turn the motorhome engine on, and leave it
running. Turn the towed vehicle’s ignition key to the
“tow” position.

2. Check for leaks in the air system: allow the air com­pressor to run until it shuts off (approximately 45 sec­onds). Then, apply the motorhome brakes and continue
to hold the brake pedal down.
Cover each joint, fitting and connection in the air
system (including the proportioning valve — Figure 11)
with a leak check solution.

The air system now contains pressurized air,
which may cause severe eye or ear injury if it is
inadvertently released. Wear appropriate eye and
ear protection before adjusting the air system con­nections and fittings.

Tighten any fittings, if necessary, and repeat until

all connections are airtight.

3. Confirm the proper operation of the braking system:
depress and hold the motorhome brake pedal down.
At the towed vehicle, the air cylinder shaft and pedal
clamp will extend. Then, release the brake pedal. The
air cylinder shaft and pedal clamp will retract.

4. Confirm that the motorhome monitor is functioning:
the LED will illuminate after the motorhome brake ped­al is depressed, and stop illuminating when the brake
pedal is released.

If the LED does not illuminate, as described above,

identify and correct the cause of the malfunction be­fore using the supplemental braking system. Refer
to the Troubleshooting section for possible causes.
The LED is the only indication of braking activ­ity at the motorhome. Severe damage to the towed
vehicle, a loss of vehicular control or other con­sequential, non-warranty damage can occur if the
driver of the motorhome is unaware that the supple­mental braking system is not functioning properly.

5. Confirm the proper operation of the break away
system —
Note: the break away system is included with the-

BrakeMaster 9060; it is an optional accessory with the
BrakeMaster 9000.

continued on next page

15

Final connections and system test

Test the system

continued from preceding page

Charge the break away air reservoir — start the mo­torhome and allow the air compressor to run until it
shuts off. Then, apply the motorhome brakes and hold
the brake pedal down.

The break away air reservoir must be charged,

as described above, every time the motorhome and
towed vehicle are connected. If the air reservoir is
not charged, the break away system will not ap­ply braking pressure if the towed vehicle separates
from the motorhome, which may cause property
damage, personal injury or even death.

Next, remove the break away pin at the front of the
break away switch. The air cylinder and pedal clamp
will extend, confirming the proper operation of the break
away system.
To retract the air cylinder and pedal clamp, briefly
disconnect the quick couplers from the air line extending
from the air cylinder. Then, reconnect the break away
pin.
Before towing, charge the break away air reservoir,
as described above.

6. Confirm the proper operation of the towed vehicle’s
brake lights and turn signals —
A. Depress the motorhome brake pedal; confirm
that the towed vehicle’s brake lights illuminate. Activate
both of the motorhome turn signals; confirm that the
towed vehicle’s turn signals activate.
If the towed vehicle’s brake lights and turn signals
do not operate in tandem with the motorhome’s, you
must install a non-intrusive lighting system or re-wire
the towed vehicle. See “Brake light solutions” in the
complete BrakeMaster installation instructions.
(For the most recent copy of the instructions, visit
www.roadmasterinc.com. Select ‘Installation Instruc­tions' under ‘Support.')
B. With one of the motorhome turn signals acti-
vated, depress the motorhome brake pedal. Confirm
that the towed vehicle’s brake lights and turn signal
both illuminate.
If the towed vehicle’s brake lights override the turn
signal, you must install a non-intrusive lighting system
or re-wire the towed vehicle. See “Brake light solutions”
in the complete BrakeMaster installation instructions.

nals do not operate in tandem with the motorhome’s,
either install a non-intrusive lighting system or re­wire the towed vehicle according to “Brake light
solutions” in the complete BrakeMaster installa­tion instructions. Then, test for proper operation,
as described in step 6, above.

By law, a towed vehicle’s turn signals and brake

lights must operate in tandem with the motorhome’s,
as described above. If they do not, drivers behind
the towed vehicle will not be alerted when the mo­torhome stops or turns, which may cause an ac­cident.
If the towed vehicle’s brake lights and turn sig-

16

Troubleshooting

Note: to identify components in the towed vehicle
described below, refer to the complete BrakeMaster
installation instructions. For the most recent copy of
the instructions, visit www.roadmasterinc.com. Select
‘Installation Instructions' under ‘Support.’

Symptom

The motorhome monitor LED does not illuminate,
even though the brakes in the towed vehicle are being
applied.

Solution

1. The monitor LED will not illuminate during very light
braking.

2. Make certain that the monitor patch cord is securely
connected between the two vehicles.

3. The towed vehicle-to-motorhome electrical cord
must also be connected — the monitor system uses it
for the ground wire.

4. The monitor LED is connected to the towed vehicle’s
brake light circuit. If the fuse in the circuit is blown,
the LED will not illuminate. Check the towed vehicle’s
brake lights — if they illuminate when the brake pedal
is depressed, the fuse is good.

5. Is the optional Brake-Lite Relay installed in the
towed vehicle? If so, make certain that the monitor
wire is connected to the towed vehicle’s brake light wire
after the brake light switch, but before the Brake-Lite
Relay — connecting the wire anywhere else will prevent
the monitor LED from functioning.

Symptom

Nothing happens after proper installation.

Solution

1. The motorhome engine must be running — if the

engine is off, there may be insufficient hydraulic pres­sure to activate BrakeMaster.

2. Check the air line connections. Remove the weather
covers from the quick couplers at both vehicles, and
gently tug on the air line to verify that the quick couplers
are connected.
Check to make certain that the air cylinder quick
coupler is connected to the air line in the passenger
compartment.

3. Check the wiring at the solenoid valve (on the pro­portioning valve). One of the black wires must be con­nected to a good chassis ground (Figure 9). The other
black wire must be connected to the motorhome brake
wire downstream from the brake light switch (Refer to
“Wire the proportioning valve.”). Use a test light to con­firm that the solenoid valve is receiving power when the
motorhome brake pedal is depressed.
If the connections are good, test for proper function
— with the motorhome engine running, have an assistant
depress the motorhome brake pedal while you listen
for a “click” at the solenoid valve. The solenoid valve
should “click” every time the brake pedal is depressed.

4. Disconnect the air line from the “out” compression

fitting on the solenoid valve (Figure 9). Have an as­sistant depress the motorhome brake pedal — the pro­portioning valve should release air each time the pedal
is depressed.
A. If there is air at the proportioning valve — follow the
air line back to the air cylinder in the towed vehicle.
Inspect the entire line for deformities caused by exces­sive heat, and/or kinks in the line, which would restrict
the air flow — replace the entire section of air line if any
are found.
Disconnect the quick couplers to confirm that they
are allowing air to flow through them.
B. If there is no air at the proportioning valve — check
to confirm that the air line between the air compressor
and the proportioning valve is connected to the correct
fitting. It should run from the “in” fitting on the air com­pressor (Figure 1) to the “in” fitting on the proportioning
valve (Figure 8).
If the air line is connected to the “out” fitting on the
proportioning valve, no air can pass through the valve,
and the BrakeMaster system will not function.
If this is the case, reconnect the line from the air
compressor to the “in” fitting in the proportioning valve.

Symptom

The compressor runs constantly, or runs much more
frequently than I think it should.

Solution

1. Check for leaks in the air system.

2. Make certain that the drain valve on the air compres­sor air tank is closed. Refer to Figure 15.

3. If a BrakeAway system is installed on the towed
vehicle, make certain that the drain valve on the Break­Away air reservoir is closed.

4. Make certain that a female quick coupler has been
installed at the rear of the motorhome — a male quick
coupler does not have a check valve to prevent air from
escaping.

Symptom

It seems to require a significant amount of brake
pressure in the motorhome before the BrakeMaster air
cylinder activates in the towed vehicle.

Solution

1. The motorhome engine must be running — if the

engine is off, there may be insufficient hydraulic pres­sure to activate BrakeMaster.

2. Inspect the air lines for deformities caused by excessive
heat, and/or kinks in the line, which would restrict the air
flow — replace the entire section of air line if any are found.

3. Check for leaks in the air system: after starting the
motorhome, allow the air system to fully charge. De­press and hold the motorhome brake pedal down.
Cover each joint, fitting and connection in the air
system with a leak check solution.
Tighten any fittings, if necessary, and repeat until

continued on next page

17

Troubleshooting

continued from preceding page

all connections are airtight.

4. If the towing vehicle is a Ford Class C motorhome,
the proportioning valve must be teed into the front hy­draulic brake line — the rear brake line does not supply
sufficient hydraulic pressure.

5. Not all of the air was bled from the brakes after
installing the proportioning valve. Re-bleed the propor­tioning valve, as well as all brakes (and any compo­nents connected to the braking system) downstream
from the brake tee.

Symptom

The BrakeMaster air cylinder will extend and de­press the towed vehicle’s brake pedal. However, it
will not retract when the motorhome brake pedal is
released.

Solution

1. Make certain that the air cylinder has been installed
directly in line with the brake pedal. If it is mounted at
an angle to the brake pedal (to one side or the other),
the air cylinder may jam in the extended position.

2. Dirt or debris can enter the air lines if the weather
covers are not used over the quick couplers. It may
accumulate at the quick exhaust valve on the air cyl­inder, preventing the valve from venting air out of the
air cylinder. Disassemble the quick exhaust valve and
make certain it is not jammed.

3. If a system of diodes was used to wire the towed
vehicle’s lights for towing, make certain that a diode
is installed at every point where the motorhome brake
light wire connects to the towed vehicle’s brake light
wire.
When the air cylinder extends and depresses the
towed vehicle’s brake pedal, it energizes the towed
vehicle’s brake light wire. If diodes are not installed in
the circuit, current will travel back to the motorhome
and activate the BrakeMaster solenoid.
As long as the solenoid is activated, it will not allow
air to vent from the air cylinder — the air cylinder will
remain extended.

The engines in some vehicles, such as the Saturn
Vue, must be started periodically during towing. If the
towed vehicle’s engine must be started periodically,
always deplete the vacuum in the vehicle’s power brake
system before you resume towing.
Refer to the caution statement on page 15.

2. If the towed vehicle has an ‘active’ (or, ‘continuous
power assist’) braking system, order the optional brake
pressure reducer (part number 900002) to adapt the
vehicle to the BrakeMaster system.
Vehicles with ‘active’ brake systems include several
hybrid vehicles, such as the Ford Escape hybrid and
the Mercury Mariner hybrid, as well as the H3 Hum­mer. These vehicles, and others with ‘active’ braking
systems, are designed so that even when the ignition
is turned to the ‘tow’ position, the braking system is still
active.
If the reducer is not installed, BrakeMaster will apply
excessive force to the towed vehicle’s brake pedal.

3. If the towed vehicle does not have power brakes,
order the optional brake pressure reducer (part num­ber 900002) to adapt the vehicle to the BrakeMaster
system.
BrakeMaster is designed to work with vehicles that
have a power brake system (even though the power
brakes are not activated while towing).
If the reducer is not installed, BrakeMaster will apply
excessive force to the towed vehicle’s brake pedal.

Symptom

The towed vehicle brakes abruptly the first time
BrakeMaster is activated, ‘flat spotting’ the tires. Also,
after towing, there may be excessive brake dust on the
wheels of the towed vehicle, and/or an unusual odor
near the towed vehicle’s brakes.

Solution

1. The stored vacuum in the towed vehicle’s power
brake system must be depleted before towing — pump
the brake pedal several times. Depending on the make
and model of the towed vehicle, it may be necessary
to pump the brake pedal repeatedly.
Deplete the vacuum in the power brakes every time
the towed vehicle’s engine has been started — typically,
when the vehicle is connected for towing.

18