Rimoldi 627, 629 Instruction Manual

ORION

617-627-637-647-657
620-629-639-640-649

MAINTENENCE HANDBOOK

N 352

████████████

WARNINGS

For general warnings on the subject of safety, see the INSTRUCTION BOOKLET. The installation
and adjustment as well as maintenance operations shown
by specialist technical staff.

WARNING

BEFORE CARRYING OUT MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS, DISCONNECT THE EQUIPMENT AND
MOTOR FROM THE MAIN ELECTRIC AND PNEUMATIC CIRCUITS, AND MAKE
DOES NOT START

BEFORE RECONNECTING TO THE MAIN ELECTRIC AND PNEUMATIC CIRCUITS, MAKE SURE
ALL COVERS HAVE BEEN CLOSED AGAIN AND ALL PROTECTION WHICH MAY UAVE BEEN
REMOVED HAS BEEN REPLACED.
NONCOMPLIANCE WITH THESE SAFETY RULES MAY PUT PEOPLE AT RISK.

WHEN THE PEDAL IS PUSHED.

in

this booklet must only be carried out

SURETUE

MACHINE

CONDITIONS OF

Rirnoldi Necchi guarantees that all Rimoldi Necchi machines (hereafter defined as "the
products") will
from the date the invoice is issued to the end user (client).

During the guarantee period,
(hereafter defined as the
guarantee and sold by them on behalf of Rimoldi Necchi free of charge. The repaired or replaced parts
are only guaranteed for the remaining period of the product guarantee. Any maintenance operations
and repairs carried out during the guarantee period do not modify the expiry date of the guarantee itself.

The guarantee operations are carried out on the

In

this case, the client must assume all transport costs and risks. Any replaced parts removed from the
product become property of Rimoldi Necchi.
Final decisions regarding the validity of the guarantee service requests and/or technical mett1ods
involved are taken by the Rimoldi Necchi Quality Management.

This guarantee does not cover breakdowns due to normal wear, unauthorized operations or
modification, improper or inexpert use of the product, lack of, incorrect or insufficient maintenance
and/or lubrication, inadequate supply systems (electric and pneumatic), use of non-original spare parts
and/or accessories and, finally, it does not cover damage to electronic parts caused by natural
atmospheric events. Therefore, components which are worn due to normal use of the machine are not
replaced under guarantee, such as needles, feed dogs, plates, presser foots, knives, loopers, etc

GUARANTEE

be free from defects

"Seller"), will repair or replace any defective parts of the products covered by this

in

material or workmanship for one shift per day for twelve months

RIM, the AGENT or the RETAILER of the Rimoldi Necchi machine

client's premises, or, if necessary, at the sellers.

This guarantee only ensures the client for the repair and replacement of defective parts.
claims and requests are excluded, including those related to loss of production or damage to things or
people due to the use of a Rimoldi Necchi machine, even if due to the breakdown of the machine itself.
Requests to replace the product itself are also excluded. This guarantee replaces any other guarantee
or condition, either
particular purposes.

This is the unique and complete agreement which regulates the relationship between
the seller, and Rimoldi Necchi, relating to the guarantee. No employee or organization of the
is authorized to modify it

In

the case of dispute regarding the contents, limits of application and anything else concerning
the guarantee, the
are only provided out of courtesy.

Rimoldi Necchi S.r.l. reserves the right
information printed in this brochure.

explicit or implicit, including therein any guarantee that the product is suitable for

on

behalf of the seller or Rimoldi Necchi.

Italian version of these regulations will apply, since translations into other languages

The competent law court is Milan,

to

modify

or

val}', for technical

Italy.

or

commercial reasons, the

All other

ttle client,

seller

INDEX

1 TECHNICAL FEATURES
2 TYPE OF STITCHES
3 MACHINE SPEED AND MOTOR PULLEY TABLE
4 GENERAL
5 INSTALLATION

5.1

5.2 - LAMP CONNECTION

5.3 -CONNECTION DIAGRAMS

6 LUBRICATION

6.1

6.2 - DISPOSAL OF USED OIL

6.3 - OIL CHANGE
7
8 TRANSPORT
9 REPLACING THE NEEDLE

10 PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE
11

12
13

14
15
16
17 NEEDLE GUARD ADJUSTMENTS FOR OVEREDGE STITCH

18 NEEDLE GUARD ADJUSTMENTS FOR THE CHAIN STITCH

19

20 ELASTIC METERING DEVICE WITH ELECTRONIC CONTROL

21

22

MAINTENANCE

FITTING AND ADJUSTING TRIMMING KNIVES

11.1

11.2

11.3 - SHARPENING THE KNIVES

VARIATION OF BIGHT WIDTH
ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION AND THREADING

13.1

13.2 - THREADING

13.3 - THREADING OF THE CHAIN STITCH THREAD TAKE

ADJUSTING FEED DOG HEIGHT
ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH
ADJUSTING DIFFERENTIAL FEED RATIO

17.1

17.2 -

17.3 -

18.1

PULLER FEED (MACHINES CLASS 627 AND 629)

20.1

20.2 - PRESETTING OF THE ELASTIC FEEDING

20.3 - EXAMPLES

MACHINES WITH VARIABLE TOP FEED CLASS 640, 647 AND 649, 657

21.1

21.2 -

21.3 - ADJUSTING THE HEIGHT POSITION OF THE TOP FEED DOG

21.4 - ADJUSTING THE TOP FEED DOG'S VERTICAL STROKE

21.5 - POSITIONING THE TOP FEED DOG

21.6 - LIMITING THE TOP FEED DOG'S LONGITUDINAL STROKE (FEED STROKE)

21.7 - GATHERING PLATEN ADJUSTMENT- HEADS TUYPE 647/649-22

21.8 -

TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART

INSTRUCTIONS

- ELECTRIC SYSTEM

- FILLING WITH OIL

- BOTTOM KNIFE

- TOP KNIFE

- ADJUSTING THREAD TENSIONS

(MACHINES CLASS 620, 629, 639, 640, 649)

- SINGLE NEEDLE MACHINES 617, 627, 637, 647
CHECK STANDARD SETTING
ADJUSTMENT OF FRONT

ADJUSTMENT OF REAR NEEDLE GUARD

TWIN NEEDLE MACHINES CLASS 617,627, 637, 647, 657

CHECK
FIXED REAR NEEDLE GUARD

MACHINES CLASS 620, 629, 639, 640, 649

CHECK

-MACHINES CLASS 620, 629, 639, 640, 649

CHECK
ADJUSTMENT OF FRONT NEEDLE GUARD (FOR ALL THE MACHINES)
ADJUSTMENT OF

-CONTROL

- ADJUSTING THE TOP FEED

ADJUSTING THE HEIGHT OF THE TOP FEED DOG

PRESSER FOOT ADJUSTMENT- HEADS 649-22 ....

STANDARD SETTING

STANDARD SETTING

STANDARD SETTING

REAR NEEDLE GUARD (ONLY FOR 639 AND 649 MACHINES)

BOX DESCRIPTION

NEEDLE GUARD

IN

THE PRESSER FOOT SLOTS

UP

1 •

TECHNICAL

FEATURES

617 Ultra

620 Ultra high speed double locked chain stitCh machine Type

t1igh

speed overlock machine equipped with a small arm instead of the standard work plate,
which permits serging, welting operations, attaching of elastics,on tubular or already closed into
a ring articles, even on those of

operations etc.

The machine is

available in 1 needle and 2 needle models.

little diameter.

401

for assembly seams, binding

627 Ultra high speed overlock machine for assembly seams, serging and welting operation of elastics,

lace tapes, etc.
The machine is avaible in the
1 needle for making type
stitch.
2 needle for making type
overedging stitches.

following models:

503, two threads overedging stitch and type 504 3 threads overedging

509, three threads overedging stitch and type 512 and 514 four threads

629 Ultra high speed safety stitch machine for assembly seams,binding operations, zipper applications

etc.
The machine is available in the
2 needle for making type 515, four threads safety stitch (2+2) and type
(2+3).

3 needle for making type 401, 504, 514, 516 and

combinations can be obtained using only the necessary needles.

following models:

401

+514 stitches.

516fivethreads

The

different stitch

safety stitch

637 Overlock machine, particularly suitable for sewing operations on heavy and very heavy weight

or

fabrics

for seams which require a wide overedge bight. Fitted with long needle bar stroke.

639 Safety stitch machine, particularly suitable for sewing operations on heavy and very heavy weight

fabrics. Fitted with long needle bar stroke.

640 Double chain stitch machine Type

recommended for a perfectly paired transportation of the upper and lower plies.

401

fitted with variable top feed behind the needles. Highly

647 Overlock machine fitted with variable top feed. Particularly suitable for sewing operations on

difficult to feed fabrics, for straight-hanging seams without ply shifting and for operations which

in

require gathering

one of the ply

or

in both top and bottom ply.

649 Safety stitch machine fitted with variable top feed. Particularly suitable for sewing operations on

difficult to feed fabrics, for straight-hanging seams without ply shifting and for operations which
require gathering in one of the ply or in both top and bottom ply.

657 Overedge stitch type machine fitted with top feed, with removable small arm replacing the

traditional work plate for assembling seams on tubular or closed into ring garments even of
diameter.

small

2

-

TYPE

OF

STITCHES (FIG. 1)

All the Orion machines can be fitted, on request, with mechanic, pneumatic, eletric or electronic devices
for mechanizing and automazing certain manual operations improving output and alleviating operator
fatigue.

Ask the Rimoldi Necchi Service personnel for more detailed information about machine uses and special
devices applications, or request the descriptive leaflets from Rimoldi Necchi S.r.l.

3 -

MACHINE

The

part symbol and the size of outside diameter (D) are printed on each pulley (fig. 3).

WARNING
Run the machine at reduced speed for the first three months of use. It is suggestes to use the machine
at a speed of
documentation furnished with the machine.

SPEED

500/600 revolutions per minute lower than the maximum speed indicated on the technical

AND

MOTOR

PULLEY

TABLE

(Fig.2)

To obtain the maximum machine performance, the speed must always correspond to the operator's skill

level

and to the difficulty of the sewing operation.

Rimoldi
maximum indicated

Necchi

S.r.l. does not guarantee the machine

or

if

the machine

is

employed for operations different than those described

if

the same

is

used

at

a speed higher than the

in

the

technical documentation.

4 - GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS

Before connecting the motor to the electric network:

Check that the connection of the terminal board inside the motor

-

- Check that the overload cut-out switch is calibrated to the same voltage as above and to the power of
installed motor

the
Check that the earthing connections are all efficient

-

If,

after connecting the motor to the electric line, the direction of rotation of the machine is opposite to the
one prescribed, the direction of rotation of the motor can be reversed just transposing between them any
of the three

polarities

in

the connecting plug, without touching the yellow-green earthing cable.

is

suited to the rated voltage

5 - INSTALLATION

5.1

- ELECTRIC SYSTEM

The electric system includes the motor cutout switch (fig. 4), the motor connecting cable and a cable without
plug. The allowed connections to the electric grid are those laid down
The power
overhead connections by fixing
N.B.- The
could
contacts.
With every type of connection, it is necessary to connectthe electric system to

earth using the yellow-green conductor (fig. 5).

cable (the blue one only) is considered to be double insulated, and therefore can be used for

it

to a suitable vertical column (e.g. the bobbin holder).

cable

must

not

be

cause

abrasions

and

threaded

cuts

in

the

through

wire

protecting

the

bobbin

sheath,

holder

by

which

the

tube

may

laws

or

any

lead

an

officially

in

force.

other

tubes

to

the

risk

acknowledged

of

hidden

which

5.2 - LAMP CONNECTION

For a self-contained light input, the RIMOLDI 019-90 is to
terminals of the overload cut-out switch.
Input E = 125/160/220/240/380/415
Adjustable output U

5.3 - CONNECTION DIAGRAMS FOR SEWING UNITS FITTED WITH SINGLE-PHASE DEVICES (for example:

SARA, RITA, SONIA, etc.)

The connections of the devices which make up the Rimoldi Necchi sewing units or sewing systems must
comply with the diagrams
three-phase and four-wire
In

the case of connection to lines with NON-distributed neutral (fig. 7), it
single-phase transformer for input voltages of 380-415V and output voltages of 220-240V 200VA between
the motor cut-out and single-phase devices, or request

Always,
The value of the motor cutout switch setting
attached to the switch box itself, according to the voltage and power of the motor used.
and adjust the setting, remove the switch cover, and turn the
the index points to the required value.
Warning:

Rimoldi heads can be fitted to common stands
following characteristics: ·

either

disconnect

=from

check

5 to 12

in

figures 6 and 7 set out for the cases of five-wire (distributed neutral) 380 V

380 V (NON-distributed neutral) electric lines respectively.

the

setting

from

the

V.

V.

20 VA

of

the

mains

50/60 Hz

motor

(in

before

cutout

amperes) must be equal to the value shown on the table

removing

in

the majority

be

used. It is to be connected to the input

is

necessary to place an approved

Rimoldi transformer

switch

or

have

special screw (or move the cursor index) until

the

cover.

of

cases, provided the stands have the

n.

it

checked

P91

0054-0.

by

competent

In

order to check

staff.

- 40 mm thick plywood wooden table.

- adjustable feet to ensure stability.
of

- ability to support a weight

- for Gemini and
It can be installed in two ways on the table:

-

- normal: work surface raised above the table (Fig. 8 -

- submerged: work surface on exactly the same level as the table (Fig. 9 -

N.B.

If it is wished to install the machine on a stand which the client already has, it is necessary to carry

out

the following operations:

- cut the table, or modify the cut if the stand already

- normal positioning -

- submerged positioning -

- replace the machine holding plate fixed to the table with the one supplied with the new head.

A)

NORMAL
a) Level stand
b)

Fit the machine holding plate by proceeding as follows:

- place the 2 long bolts E and 2 short bolts

c)

Place rubber bushes G and spacers H into the 2 holes (one back and one front) on the right
holding plate F Fig. 8a). This should be done
operator's point

d) Connect the 2 crosspieces

left

of

plate F), two washers Q and two nuts M (do not screw nuts M

e)

Place rubber bushes G abd spacers H

f)

Place washers I onto rubber bushes G

g)

Slip two spacers
h)

Positioning machine holding plate
rubber bushes G (Fig.8a)

i)

Slit the four washers L which should rest on rubber bush G onto the four nuts E and
I)

Slip on 2 long bolts E 2 washers
m) After fitting washers L onto nuts E and E1, tighten nuts M completely (Fig. 8a)
n)

Fit the 4 support C with respective nuts D onto the machine holding plate F (without locking them) and

the washers (Fig. 8 and 8b)

Insert the 4 rubber pads A on the 4 pins C (Fig. 8 and 8b)

o)

p)

Take

hold

q) By adjusting support pins

the table Level the head by adjusting pins

N.B. This operation is always carried out with
r)

Connect the drive belt
the motor pulley supplied with the head.

characteristcs

(vertical plane).

Adjust the belt tension:
a load of about 1-2 kg.

s)

Connect tie-rod B to the machine presser foot lift lever N

(Fig. 8b).

feed-off-the~arm

Encl. B

POSITIONING (Fig. 8 -

of

view.

R1

and two washers S onto short bolts

of

the head as shown in enclosures A and A 1 and place it on the 4 rubber pads A (Fig.

of

the head. Check that the drive belt is on a plane at right angles to the pulley axes

at least 200 kg. stably (head + motor, and any other devices).

heads, it is advisable to use original Rimoldi stands.

8a-

8b).

9a-

9b).

has a table, bearing in mind that:

Encl. C

8a-

8b)

E1

into the four 10 mm. diam. holes in the tables (fig. 8a)

of

by

obseNing

F1

to plate F with two bolts P (which should be fitted into the holes in the

in

the remaining holes in crosspieces

F,

prepared as above, by fitting it onto the 4 bolts E and

Land

2 spacers R (Fig. 8a)

C,

set the height

(1

Ox6

mm. cross section) to the motor and head pulleys (handwheel). Only use

the

tension is correct when a camber of about 10-15 mm. is created by placing

in

the position shown in the figure 10.

of

the head, making sure that it protrudes from the plane of

C

the

trapezoidal drive belt detached.

In any case, never exceed the maximum speed shown in the

the plate placed on the stand from the

rigt1t

down - Fig. 8a)

F1

E1

(Fig. 8a)

E1

(Fig. 8a)

of

the holding plate F and stand pedal

machine

E1

using

8)

SUBMERGED

B)

a) Level stand

b)

Fit the machine holding plate by proceeding

- place the 2 long bolts E and 2 short bolts

c)

Place rubber bushes G and spacers H into the 2 holes (one back and one fropnt) on the right

holding plate F (fig. 9a). This should be done

operator's point
d) Connect

with two bolts

M,

which should not be screwed right down (Fig. 9a)

POSITIONING

of

the

2 crosspieces

P

(which

(Fig.9-

view.

F1

(upside down compared to the normal positioning - Fig. 8a) to plate F

shold be fitted into the holes in the left

9a

-9b)

as

follows:

E1

into the four 10 mm. diam. holes in the tables (Fig. 9a)

by

observing the plate placed on the stand from the

of

plate

of

machine

F)

two washers Q and two nuts

N.B.The bolt

e)

Place rubber bushes G and spacers H

f)

Slip whashers I onto bolts E and

g)

Slip spacer R onto bolts
(Fig. 9a)

h)

Positioning machine holding plate

rubber bushes G (Fig.9a)
) Slip the four washers
I)

Tighten nuts M
on

the bolts P (Fig.9a)

m)

Fit the 4 support C with respective nuts D onto the machine holding plate F (without locking them) and

the washers (Fig. 9 and 9b)

n)

Insert the 4 rubber pads A on the 4 pins C (Fig. 9 and 9b)

o)

Take

l1old

p)

By adjusting support pins

tha table. Level the head by adjusting pind

N.B. This operation is always carried out with the trapezoidal drive belt detached

q)

Connect the drive belt

the motor

characteristcs of the head. Check that the drive belt is on a plane at right angles to the

(vertical plane). Adjust the belt tension: the tension

created by placing a load of about 1-2

r)

Connect tie-rod B to the machine presser foot lift lever N of the jolding plate F and stand pedal (Fig. 9b).

P,

respect to fig. 9b, will be assembled on its own head under the plate

in

E1

(Fig. 9a)

E,

and spacer

F,

prepared as above, by fitting it into the 4 bolts E and

L,

which should rest

on

the 4 bolts E and

of the head as shown

C,

set the height of the head so that work surface T (Fig.

(1

Ox6

mm. cross section) to the motor and head pulleys (handwheel). Only use

pulley supplied with the head.

E1

in

enclosures A and A 1 and place it

the remaining holes

R1

onto bolts E1. Place four washer I onto rubber bushes G

on

rubber bushes

and lock them down. At this point, lock down the two nuts M

C

In

any case, never exceed the maximum speed shown

is

correct when a camber of about 10-15 mm. is

kg.

in

the position shown

in

crosspieces

G,

onto the four bolts E and

on

in

the figure 10.

F.

F1

E1

E1

(Fig.9a)

the 4 rubber pads A (Fig.

9)

is aligned with

pulley axes

using

9)

in

the

N.B. Incorrect installation

of

the

machine on the stand can lead

to

more noise and vibrations than

stated by the manufacturer.

In

particular, noise and vibrations can increase when:

- Non-original rubber pads are used.

- Non-original spare parts are used.

- The belt is not adjusted correctly (too slack).

- Non-original or unsuitable supports are used.

- Bobbin holders which are

- Guards and work surface have been tampered with or not fixed correctly.

NOTE: the packing material

nbt firmly fixed to the support are used.

should

be disposed

of

properly.

6 - LUBRIFICATION

6.1

- FILLING WITH OIL

Warning: the machine
necessary

to

fill

it

is

using

the special oil

supplied

without

for

lubricant, therefore, before starting the machine,

industrial sewing

machines-

the machine itself.

In

order to fill it or later top it up, proceed as follows:

- Unscrew transparent cap A (Fig.

- Pour

- Check the amount poured

- Screw cap A back on.

WARNING: always use
advisable
recommended
forfeiture

Only
32M oil recommended by the manufacturer:

-

AGIP OTE 32

-

MOBIL DTE LIGHT

-TEXACO

in

the contents of the RIM 32M oil tin supplied with the machine.

in

line (MAX) or

fall below the lower one (MIN).

RIM

to

mix

oils

of

different types. The use

or

the addition

of

the guarantee.

in

special situations, it is possible to use one of the following types of oil as

REGAL OIL 32

11

).

through sight glass D (Fig.

11

).

The oil level must never exceed the upper

32M both when the oil is changed and when

of

of

additives can lead

lubricating

to

oils

of

irreparable machine damage and the

RIM

32M

- provided

it

is

topped up. It

a different

an

type

alternative to the RIM

to

it

is

with

is

not

the oil

6.2 - DISPOSAL OF USED OIL

Incorrect disposal of used oil causes serious pollution problems for man, animals, and the environment.
It is therefore necessary to dispose of the oil by carefully following the instructions below:

1)

RIM 32M lubrication oil
USED MINERAL OILS"

2)

The used oil must be collected

3)

The oil should be delivered to a legally authorized body.

6.3-

OIL CHANGE (Fig.12)

To empty the oil out of the sump, unscrew the drain plug A on the lower part of the sump.
Dismount the sump from the base of the machine unscrewing the 5 screw that fix it and
with gasoline or petroleum the filters
Blow the filters with low pressure air before remounting.
Check the drain
Remount the drain

7 - MAINTENANCE

plug gasket and replace with a new one, if it is damaged.

is

totally mineral, therefore after use it is categorized among the 'TlECLAIMABLE

in

a suitable container used exclusively for this purpose.

C,

D,

E and

plug with gasket on the sump.

WARNING

change or clean

F.

BEFORE CARRYING OUT MAINTENANCE OPERATIONS, DISCONNECT THE EQUIPMENT
MOTOR FROM THE MAIN ELECTRIC
DOES NOT
BEFORE RECONNECTING TO
ALL

COVERS
REMOVED
NONCOMPLIANCE WITH THESE

The periodic maintenance operations to be carried out
working order are:

START

HAS

WHEN THE

HAVE

BEEN CLOSED AGAIN

BEEN REPLACED.

AND

PNEUMATIC CIRCUITS,
PEDAL
THE MAIN ELECTRIC

IS PUSHED.

SAFETY

AND

RULES

ALL

MAY

in

AND

MAKE

AND

PNEUMATIC CIRCUITS,

PROTECTION

PUT PEOPLE

order to keep the machine constantly

AT

SIJRE

WHICtl

RISK.

'THE

MAKE

MAY

.iAVE BEEN

MACHINE

in

Every day.

Clean all the moving machine parts related to feed and stitch formation with a brush.
Check the

Check the oil level and,

To clean the machines sewing area, remove the work plate.
For the 627, 637 and 647 class machines this is done by inserting the tweezers A or a screwdriver
under the work
the work plate is separated from the magnet.
For machines
N (Fig.14), and
If the machine is equipped with 135 or 235 chain cutting device,
is necessary to

needle point and needles.

if

necessary,

plate 8 as shown

class 620, 629, 639, 640 and 649, the work plate is removed by opening the front cover

lifting it until it is separated from the magnet.

slide it toward the rear part. of the machine.

in

top

up before starting the daily activity.

figure 13 and then lifiting the tweezers as

in

order to remove the work plate it

~3hown

in figure 13 until

Every Week.

- Remove the needle plate and clean the feed dogs and looper with a brush.

AND

SUBE

perfect

Each month.

- Check the wear of the belt.

- Check the wear of the needle guard.

Every three months

If the machine is equipped with subsidiary filter, unscrew the transparent cap A (Fig.11) and remove the

filter. Clean it with gasoline or petroleum and blow it with low pressure air before remounting.

Every

six

months

- Replace the oil and clean the filter (see

II

Every three months''). N.B.

-If

RIM

32M oil is not used, replace

it every three months.

IMPORTANT If the machine is emploied for sewing fabrics which produces a lot of dust, the change of
oil and of filters must be more frequent.

Every

two

years
Replace the oil filters of the sump when using oil
For this operation, dismount the sump from the base of the machine unscrewing the 5 screw that fix
Unscrew the screw

When using a type of

B,

remove the filters

C,

oil different than RIM32M, it is necessary to replace oil every year.

RIM

32M.

D,

E and F and replace with new ones (fig.12).

it.

After a long

period

without

use

If the machine is not used for a long time, it is necessary to cover it with the cover provided.

Before

starting

to

use

it

again,

carry

out

the

following

operations:

- Check the oil level and, if necessary, top it up.

- Check that

all the accident-prevention guards are

- Connect the machine to the main
Oil the needle bar with

-

-

Run

the machine at low speed

RIM

32M oil.

~3000

electric and pneumatic circuits.

rpm for about 10 seconds and check that oil flows under the

in

place and perfectly operative.

transparent filling cap.

8 ­The machine weighs is 36

TAKE

TRANSPORT

Kg.

HOLD OF THE HEAD

AS

SHOWN

IN

ENCLOSURES A and

A1

(INSTALLATION)

9 - REPLACING THE NEEDLE (FIG. 11)

needle is inserted into the hole of the needle clamp and is fixed by the allen screw F (Fig. 9).

The

1

·•

To replace the needle,
by pressing the pedal:

·

1)

Turn the handwheel manually to raise the needle to its top position.

2)

Lower lever

3)

Slaken needle-locking screw

Land

the same system as indicated
Take into consideration that the

switch

off

the

motor

and make sure that the machine has stopped completely

turn the presser foot towards the left side of the machine.

F,

remove the needle and replace it with a new one, which must be of

in

the label of the machine.

looper passage groove must be turned towards the rear part of the

machine.

4)

Tighten screw F without forcing it, taking care not to alter the needle orientation.

5)

Bring the presser foot back to its normal working position.

After

replacing the needle, remember to position the finger protection plate correctly namely

so that the finger tips cannot reach the needle points neither upward nor downward.

in

a position

10 - PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE (FIG. 11)

To adjust the pressure of the presser foot, loosen screw
direction to increase the pressure and
ATTENTION: THE NEW 11LOW INERTIA
ACTION

11

11.1 -

IN

ORDER TO FEED THE FABRICS PROPERLY.

- FITTING AND ADJUSTING TRIMMING KNIVES

Bottom

knife

in

counterclockwise direction to decrease

11

PRESSER FOOT REQUIRES A VERY LIGHT PRESSURE

I and turn the knob

To fit and adjust the bottom knife proceed as follows:

M:

turn the knob

it.

in

clockwise

1)

insert knife
above the work

2)

make sure that the knife holder D moves freely

in

the seat

on

knife holder D (Fig.15), taking care that the cutting edge does not project

plate, then tighten screw A

in

its seat and then position

it

to suit the bight width

required

3)

lightly tighten screw B

4)

position the top knife touching the bottom one and slacken screw B

so

that spring C creates the right

pressure between the two knives

5)

tighten screw

11.2 - Top knife

The machine can be equipped with one of the top knife assemblies represented
To fit the top knife (fig. 16a) proceed as

1)

position the knife

2)

turn the handwheel till the top knife assembly reaches its bottom dead point and check that the cutting

is

edge

0,8

B.

follows :

in

the seat

mm

below the cutting edge of the bottom knife.

on

knife holder E and lock with screw F

in

Fig.16a and 16b.

If the knives are not

in

the exact position, loosen screw F and move the top knife assembly towards right
to lower the top knife edge or towards left to raise the top knife edge.
Slide the top knife

To fit the top knife (fig. 16b) proceed as

1)

position the knife

2)

turn the handwheel till the top knife assembly reaches its bottom dead point and check that the cutting

is

edge

0,8

If the knives are not

in

its oblique seat to maintain the correct contact between the two knives.

follows :

on

knife holder E and lock with screw F

mm

below the cutting edge of the bottom knife.

in

the exact position, loosen screw F and move the top knife up or down.
To maintain the correct contact between the two knives loosen screw G and properly move the knife
assembly.

11.3 - Sharpening the knives

The knives should be sharpened periodically using the Rimoldi Necchi RASA S001-02 (50/60Hz 220V)
and Rimoldi Necchi RASA S002-02 (50/60Hz

11

OV)

and the special block 990322-0-10 (supplied

on

request) which ensures the correct sharpening angle.

12 - VARIATION OF BIGHT WIDTH

The needle bight width A (fig. 17) is measured between the needle and the right edge of the needle plate
finger.
The bight width can
For varying
See needle

it
plate

be

varied slightly by adjusting the position of the trimming knives.

beyond certain limits the needle plate must

on

request

on

Technical Documentation.

be

changed.

13 - ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION AND THREADING

13.1

- Adjusting thread tensions (fig. 11)

The treads coming from thread guide bracket B are pressed between two tension discs.
Therefore to obtain the correct stitch formation the pressure of the spring must be adjusted by turning
tension knob

C.

Be careful not to screw it down too tightly as this could cause thread breakage.

13.2 a Threading

For the correct threading of the machine, see the threading chart or the threading sketch glued inside
the loopers cover.
The various ways of threading the

11

tension plates

II

to suit the kind of thread used are illustrated

A- cotton threads

B-

woolen, helanca, dralon threads and all soft threads generally

very twisted threads

C-

in

Fig.18.

13.3

- Threading

For threading the chain stitch thread take up operate as follows:

1)

Open the front cover N (Fig.14) and pull out the sliding thread guide (fig.19)

2)

Thread the chainstitch looper thread through the small tube B with its threading wire
from the front of the machine)

3)

Take the thread which has come out of tube

hole

from
continue to thread the chainstitch
When the threading is finished, push back the sliding thread guide A and mount the work plate.
When pushing back the sliding thread guide, make sure that the portion of the thread

between
Also make sure that the high point on the lower take-up cam L begins to take-up thread from the looper
at the same time as the needle reaches top dead point.

14 - ADJUSTING FEED DOG HEIGHT

holes D and E is securely inserted

of

the

chain

on

thread guide C to holes

stitch thread

on

thread guidesD and E through slit

looper.

take

up

(machines

B,

threading it

in

the cut out between the thread guides H and

class

in

sequence:

620,

629, 639,

(to

F,

then thread guide G and

640

be

and

649)

threaded

in

tension

K.

With the feed dogs
to the value indicated
To obtain this setting
and move the feed dog up or down.
If the machine is equipped with chain feed dog with one row of teeth (Fig.21 a), this must not project from
the

needle plate surface when the feed dogs are
If the machine is equipped with chain feed dog with two rows ofteeth (Fig.21
than the feed dogs.

15 - ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

To adjust the stitch length proceed as follows (fig.11

1)

turn the handwheel and press the push button E until it
adjustment eccentric.
ATTENTION: For machines class 620, 629, 639, 640 and 649 open the front cover N (fig.14)
to push the pushbutton

2)

turn the handwheel:

-

in

clockwise direction (as shown by the arrow

in

counter clockwise direction to shorten the stitch.

-

3)

release the push button

Make some sewing tests to verify if the stitch length

16 - ADJUSTING DIFFERENTIAL FEED RATIO(*)

The differential feed ratio is the ratio between differential feed dog stroke and main feed dog stroke.
When the differential feed dog stroke is greater than main feed dog stroke, the fabric
during sewing (positive differential feed).
This

differential feed ratio is particulary suitable for obtaining perfectly straight-hanging seams
knit and
When the differential feed dog stroke is less than main feed dog stroke, the fabric will
sewing (negative differential feed).
This
To adjust the differential feed ratio proceed as

1)

2)
The stop H is preset at the factory according to the
position must not be modified.

elastic fabrics and for gathered seams

differential feed ratio is particularly suitable for seaming woven and warpknit fabrics.

loosen button G and slide it up for gathering the fabric (positive differential feed)
slide button G down for stretching the fabric (negative differential feed).

in

their highest position, the distance they project from the needle plate must be equal

in

the Technical Documentation.

loosen the fixing screw A for main feed dog and B for differential feed dog (Fig.20)

in

their highest position.

b),

this must

be

0,2 mm lower

(*)

):

is

E.

E.

completely inserted

in

the drawing) to lenghthen the stitch.

is

the desired one.

in

general.

follows (fig.

11

):

application characteristics of the machine and its

in

the notch of stitch

in

will

be

gathered

on

be

stretched during

order

weft

(*)

The maximum stitch length and the minimun and maximum differential feed ratio, indicated for each
subclass
obtained as indicated
of

mechanical part inside the machine.

in

the Technical Documentation, refer to the standard sampling of the machine and can be

·in

chapter 15 and 16. Different values can be obtained by the proper adjustment

17 - NEEDLE GUARD ADJUSTMENTS FOR OVEREDGE STITCH

Adjustment
taken off the machine.

17.1

of

-Single

the needle guards must be done, when the needle plate and differential feed dog have been

needle machines 617, 627, 637 and 647.

Check standard setting.

Turn the handwheel until the lower looper point is in the centre of the needle scalf (Fig.22), as

is moving towards top dead centre and check:
Distance between looper point and needle

1) With needle size
touching it (fig. 23).

2) With needle size

- 0 ,05 mm) from the scalf

80 and smaller, the lower looper point must brush the scalf

90 and larger, the lower looper point must be 3 - 5 hundreths

of

the

needle (fig. 24)

of

the needle without

of

a millimetre (0,03

Adjustment of front needle guard

Height

The height of the bevel

B (figs. 23-24) depends on

eye

1)

On machines with 3 mm thick needle plates the front needle
(fig.25)

2)

On machines with 4,25 mm thick needle plates, the front needle guard A must be 1.3 mm

sleeve

To obtain this, loosen screw D (Fig.27) and adjust front needle guard

of

the looper holder C (fig.26).

of

the front needle guard A (figs. 23-24) in respect to the upper part

the

thickness

of

the needle plate.

guard A must

as

specified above .

be pushed down in its holder

of

Distance from the needle

1) With needle size
To achieve this it is advisable to set the machine up with a needle which is

smaller than the size to be used on the machine. (example: with an

mm)
etc.) therefore loosen screw

flexing it (Fig.28a).

Replace the original needle

2) With needle size

(Fig.28c).

80

or smaller,

90

and larger, the front needle guard must brush

the

front needle guard A must flex the needle B slightly (figs. 23-24).

E (fig.27) and push

that

had been removed and which is slightly flexed (Fig.28b).

the

front needle guard till it touches the needle without

1/10

of

a millimetre {0, 1

80's

needle, use a 70's needle

the

needle without flexing it

the

needle

the needle

above

the

Adjustment of rear needle guard

Height

The

bevel on the rear needle guard F (Figs. 27 and 29) must be slighty lower than the needle eye

To

achieve this, loosen screws G and H (Fig. 27) and properly set the rear needle guard .

B.

Distance from the needle

With any size needles,
needle size 80 or smaller and fig.29b for needle size 90 or larger).

H (Fig. 27) and set

WARNING
After every adjustement, make sure that the thread passes freely even when the needle is in conctat with
the rear needle guard.

17.2

-Twin

needle machines 617, 627, 637, 647 and 657.

as

the

rear needle guard F must brush the needle without flexing it. (see fig.

To

achieve this, loosen screws G and

above.

29a

for

Check standard setting

The

setting and possible adjustment

in the centre of the needle

left hand needle (Fig.31 a) and subsequently on the right hand needle (Fig.31 b), following the instructions
given for single needle machines.
To

adjust the position

D (Fig. 27) taking care not to

scalf (Fig.30), as the needle is moving

of

the

front needle guard A so that it is parallel with both needles, loosen screw

vary

of

the rear needle guard is carried

the

height

of

the needle guard.

out

towards

always with lower looper point

top

dead centre, firstly on the

When the front needle guard A and the rear needle guard

against the rear needle guard and move the lower looper to the right: the point of the looper must not touch

the scalf of the needle.

Fare

in

their correct position push the needle

Fixed rear needle guard (on request)

The movable rear needle guard can be substituted on request for a fixed rear needle guard L (fig. 32).
The correct adjustment of the front needle guard A and rear needle guard L corresponds to those

in

described
On the twin needle machines, to adjust the position of the needle guards so that they are parallel with both
needles (fig. 33), loosen screws D and M (fig. 32) taking care not to vary the height of the needle guards.

previous paragraphs.

17.3 - Machines class 620, 629, 639, 640 and 649.
Check standard setting

To check the position of the overedge stitch needle guards, see instructions as per 627 single or two
needle machines.

N,

To adjust front needle guard

loosen screws 0 (fig.34).

18 - NEEDLE GUARD ADJUSTMENTS FOR THE CHAIN STITCH

18.1

- Machines class 620, 629, 639, 640 and 649.

Check standard setting

Turn the handwheel until the chain stitch looper point is in the centre

is moving towards top dead point and check that the looper point brushes the scalf

touching

it.

of

the needle scalf, as the needle

of

the needle without

Adjustment of front needle guard (for all the machines)

Distance from the

1)

With needle size 80 or smaller, the front needle guard A (fig. 35) must flex the needle slightly.

2)

With needles ize 90 and larger, the front needle guard A must brush the needle without flexing it.

To flex the needle to eliminate

For machines class
(fig.36).
For machines class

needle

play between the looper point and the needle scalf pro-ceed as follows:

620, 629 and 640 loosen screw

639 and 649 loosen screw

B,

and push front needle guard towards needle (fig.35).

P,

and push front needle guard Q towards needle

Adjustment of rear needle guard (only for 639 and 649 machines)
Distance from the

With any size needles the rear needle guard C must brush the needle without flexing it.

To achieve this loosen screw D and set as above.

needle (Fig.35)

19 - PULLER FEED

Machines

The auxiliary top roller feed
drop feed.

roller movement is synchronized with the feed dog movement but can be regulated separately by

The

means of the adjustable cam set on the main shaft .
To make the adjustement turn screw A (fig.37): in cauter clokwise dyrection, towards the
increase the rotation speed of the
it.

class 627 and 629

in

the presser foot, in front of the needles, works

roller

in

conjunction with the main

in

clockwise dyrec-tion, towards the minus sign (

plus

-)

to decrease

sign(+)

to

NOTE - To facilitate needle threading, bring the needles to their top position, move lever B (fig. 37)
towards the right and turn the
The arm can be made to turn to the second stop release point, by

IN

THIS POSITION DO

Bear

in

mind that when the machine is not running and without fabric, there must always be a distance

of

0.1

- 0.2 mm. between the toothed roller and the needle plate. this distance is obtained by adjusting

J.

screw

roller arm until the first stop release point is reached

pulling pin C downwards.

NOT

START

THE

MACHINE OR TURN THE HANDWEEL MANUALLY!

The puller lift device

Dis

supplied with three interchangeable cams that permit different roller lift distances

from the needle plate to be obtained as indicated

in

the following table:

CAM

0.6

PULLER LIFT

da

o a 0.9mm

1 da 0 a 1.5mm

2

Intermediate lift distances are obtained by moving lever
When fitting on one of the cams supplied, remember that lever E must be
H must be
This condition is obtained by turning screw

Roller pressure on the fabrics is

20 - ELASTIC METERING DEVICE WITH ELECTRONIC

in

its right position, touching the right stop plate.

da 0 a 3mm

adjusted

J.

by screw G.

Eon

quadrant F (fig. 37).

CONTROL

in

position 110

11

and that slider

The metering roller are actuated by a D.C. motor controlled by a microprocessor.
The desired amount of elastic to be fed is obtained by adjusting the counters of the control box.
It is advisable to use the 013-51 device so as to avoid uneven elastic tensioning that may arise between

roll of elastic and the metering rollers.

the

20.1 -

Counters

Counter
values A
press

Control

II

orB

box

II A II

description

and

II

B II for presetting two different feeds of the elastic tape.

(Fig. 38)

G II for presseting a secondary feed of the elastic tape by which, when required, the feeding

can be varied during the seam. To obtain this feed it is necessary to press the right knee

control.

11G11

Counters

Counters

II A'.,

II

s·.,

11

II

H

for presetting the length of elastic tape to insert under the presser foot at the beginning

11

II G,

for presetting the decimals of feeding values 11A

of the next seam by heel-pressure on the threadle (used only on machines fitted with

11

~~s·•

•

351

and 352 special

device).

Counters

11

n K

used only with

351

and 352 special device, to get a gathering action at the beginning

of
the seam. The desired gathering action is obtained by automatically stopping the elastic rollers for the
number of stitches preset on the counters K (x 10

11

Selector

Lever
tape between the

Switch

20.2 -

11

8/A

for the choice of the preset elastic A or

11 M 11

it is used for running the rollers when the machine is off, to facilitate the insertion of the elastic

roller .

II

P II ON/OFF switch for the electronic control box.

Presetting

of

the

elastic

feeding

=ten

x 1 = unit).

B.

The presetters A B G are adjusted by a number wich can be calculated through the following formula:

= L : (0.2 x N )

V

V = number to be set

L

= requested

N

=total

finallenght

of the fabric (in millimeters) after application of the elastic tape

number of the stitches included

in

the lenght L of the fabric

0.2 = specific corrector value of the device

The value N is obtained by dividing the initiallenght of the fabric

in

the seam

(in

millimeters).

(in

20.3 - Examples:

MAKING-UP LADIES1PANTIES:

A) Attaching elastic tape to legs openings without gathering

Lenght·of the fabric before seam = 410 mm
Stitch Lenght = 2.2 mm

N=410=186

2.2

millimeters) for the stitch lenght used

Required length of the fabric after the seam
V = 410 : ( 0.2 X 186) = 410 : 37.2 = 11.0

410 mm L = 410

The number to be preset is 11.

B)

Attaching elastic tape to waist with gathering

Length of the fabric before
Stitch length = 2.2 mm

N =

680 =309

2.2

Required length of the fabric after the seam

V = 540 : (0.2 X

309)

seam=

= 540 : 61.8 = 8.7

680 mm

540 mm L = 540

The number to be preset is 8.7

NOTICE : carry out a few sewing tests and adjust the preset theorical numbers which may vary to the

thickness or the elasticity of the fabric and of the elastic tape

Never preset a number that exceed 30.

21

- MACHINES WITH VARIABLE TOP FEED CLASS 640, 647 AND 649, 657

Feed with a top feed dog serves to cooperate with the bottom feed dogs
for any type of fabric.
Machines with top feed make it possible to:

- Perform

..

drop seams

..

perfectly without fabric slippage

- Perform seams that require a constant or variable abundance of fabric

fabric

ply

in

order to obtain a perfect feed

on

the top or bottom

- Perform seams with gathering on the top or on the bottom ply, with the possibility of eliminating

the gathering with the machine running (647-22/23 and subclasse).

The top feed and the bottom feed can be set independently of each other so that gathering or fullness can
be added to the lower or top ply.

21.1 - Adjusting the top feed

To vary the top feed with respect to the bottom feed it is necessary to loosen screw A
act

on

lever B pushing it downwards to increase the top feed and pulling it upwards to reduce the top feed.
The machines belonging to the 647-22/23 and 649-22/23 (gathering) subclasses are equipped with a
knee press operated device for variyng the top feed with the machine running so that a gathering effect
on the top fabric
To pre-set the top feed's range of variation it is necessary to loosen the nuts blocking screws C and D
fig.40 and to shift the screws upward
to decrease
The minimum top feed
(which may vary between subclasses according to the machines usage characteristics) is established
the factory through the positioning of a block inside the machine. (See quota X

ply is obtained (see fig. 40).

it.

is

obtained by placing screw C

in

order to increase the top feed or to shift them downward

in

its lowermost position, while the minimum value

in

fig.39 and to

in

in

the chapter "Limiting

order

in

tt1e

top feed dog's longitudinal stroke").

To

avoid needlessly straining the internal block when moving

this screw in the

- Loosen the nut that

-

Press the knee press

- Makes sure screw D

NOTE:
equipped with device 115-12 for activating the
at extra cost).

The

following manner:

blocks

obtain gathering effects in the top fabric ply with

screw

D and shift it to uppermost position

as

far as it goes, move

locks in place for lever B intervening before

screw

differential with

screw

D upward, it is adviseable to position

D until it is against lever B and tighten the nut

the

internal block

the

machine running the machine must be

the

machine running (available on request

21.2 -

NOTE:The top feed dog's teeth, when it is in its lowermost position and when the botton feed dog is
its uppermost position,

The
must
According to the fabric's characteristics or thickness it
To
B
Once
screw

NOTE:
mm.by
If a larger variation should be necessary request
explained in

21.3 -

The
standard

fig. 42b for heavy and very heavy fabrics).

To

- Position the needle at its uppermost point

- Remove top cover

- Loosen screw E in fig.43 and introduce a spacer between

- Rotate pin K

- Rotate the

- Tighten screw E

- Loosen screw Q (fig. 44) and rotate feed dog

- Move the presser foot

Adjusting

minimum distance "M" (fig. 41) between the

correspond to the distance indicated on

perform this essential change it is necessary to loosen screw A in fig.

clockwise to reduce distance "M" and counter- clockwise to increase it.

the adjustment is made check that the top feed dog

A completely.

The

factory setting conditions make it possible to obtain a difference in the top feed dog

acting on eccentric pin

Adjusting

height position

sampling norms

perform this variation precede

quota

"M" desired.

the height'

SHOULD

U1e

next chapter.

the

height

of

the top feed dog can be varied for sewing fabrics

Lin

until the top feed dog touches

clamp F until rubber pad H

of

the

top

NEVER

B.

position

of

available subclasses (see fig.42a for light and medium heavy fabrics and

as

follows:

fig. 43

lift lever R (fig. 44) against

feed

dog

TOUCH

of

the

in

THE

BOTTOM

two

feed dogs with

the

setting chart included with every machine.

may

does

the

help

of

top

feed

dog

the

spacer placed between the feed dogs.

is against the extension G

lift lever P until its end is 0,5 mm. from lever N.

the

base and tighten screw Q completely.

FEED DOG'S TEETH.

the

needle in its uppermost position

be necessary to change this distance.

not touch the bottom ones and tighten

the

mechanic to perform the adjustment

of

the top

and botton feed dogs equal

of

41

and to rotate eccentric pin

of

+I-

thicknesses different from the

to

sector C.

in

0.7

the

21.4 -

Variation

thicknesses (intersections with cross seams or

fig. 45a).
For gathering sewing machine
be spacious (see fig.45b) and

feeding phase it is always in contact with the plate that separates it from

To

- Position the needle at its lowermost point

- Remove top cover L (fig.43)

- Loosen nut

- Tighten nut B

Adjusting

of

the top feed dog's vertical stroke

adjust the top feed dog's vertical stroke procede

by

the arrow to increase the feed dog stroke's height and in the opposite direction to reduce it.

the

top

feed

dog's

vertical

classes 647-22/23 and 649-22/23 the

the

feed dog must also be height positioned so that during the whole

Bin

fig.43 and slide pin A inside the opening in sector C, moving it in the direction shown

completely.

stroke

may

be necessary to perform

seams

of

semi-finished pieces with parts attached) (see

as

follows:

seams

top

feed dog's vertical stroke must

that encounter different

the

bottom feed dogs.

21.5 - Positioning the top feed dog

in

the presser foot slots

To center the feed dog
to move the feed dog

in

the feed dog slots it is necessary to loosen the damper rings D

lift pin K as necessary.

in

fig. 43 and

21.6 - Limiting the top feed dog's longitudinal stroke (Feed stroke)

NOTE: These instructions pertain to adjustments to be made only
disassembled to replace parts or to

be

overhauled.

Before preceding with these regulations read the instructions carefully

in

the case that the machine has been

in

order to return to the original

setting conditions.

- Set the stitch

11

REGULATION OF THE STITCH LENGTH'.

- Rotate the handwheel manually bringing the

length at the maximum, acting on the stitch regulation button as indicated

lower feed dog to the end

oft

he feed stroke (opposite side

in

the chapter

the operator).

- Loosen screw A (figs. 39 and 46}.

- Remove cap B (fig.46) located on the back of the machine and the top cover L (figs.43 and 46).

- Loosen screw

C (fig.46) and rotate arm D until it is

in

the position illustrated. The arm must be

vertical position.

- Tighten screw

- Loosen the screw of clamp

- Position clamp E so that quota 'X''

- Tighten clamp

C.

E.

in

the setting chart is obtained.

E.

This operation prevents the operator from setting the feed dog stroke beyond the

recommended maximum for the machine, damaging the presser foot and the feed dog.

in

- Tighten threaded pin F along its axis by means of screw A (figs.39 and 46)

order to prevent untrained
personnel from varying the top feed dog's stroke, modifying the feed conditons set by the technician
or by the operator.

in

21.7 - Gathering platen adjustment- heads type 647/649-22

Make sure that the eccentric pin E is positioned

- above platen A for heads type 647-22

- below platen A for heads type 649-22

....

..

..
Loosen screws B and adjust the longitudinal position of platen A to about
indicated
the gap between the plate

in

the figures. Loosen screws C and turn platen A with its mounting on the eccentric pin E until

itself and the needle stop is about 0.5 mm. Tighten screw
adjustments and using triacetate fabric, a gathering ratio of about
in

the lower edge is obtained.
By slightly increasing the gap of
obtained
On

in

the upper edge but with a consequent reduction

the other hand, by reducing the 0.5

0.5 mm between needle stop and platen, a higher gathering ratio is

mm

in

the figs. 47 and 48. The plate D must be:

..

11

mm from the needles as

C.

With these

50% both

in

the gathering of the lower edge.

in

gathering the upper and

gap between needle stop and platen, the opposite efect is

obtained.

21.8 - Presser foot adjustment - heads 649-22 ....

Loosen screw A and, with a screwdriver, turn eccentric pin B so as to free it from the plates on the rear
slide

C,

making sure that the rear slide rests flat on the needle stop; then turn eccentric B anticlockwise
until the front slide D presses on platen
Tighten screw

A.

E.

FAULT: UNEVEN STITCHES

22

- TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART

Probable cause

1 Wrong threading

2 Thread thicker than needle eye
3 Threads irregular thickness
4 Thread stand wrongly installed
5 Lower knife wrongly positioned
6 Knives do not trim because are wrongly posi-

tioned
7 Knives do not trim neatly because are worn- out
8 Needle blunt

Inadequate thread tension

9

10 Inadequate feed dog height

FAULT:

HOLES

IN

FABRIC

Probable cause

1 Needle blunt
2 Needle size unsuitable for needle plate slot
3 Unproper needle point

Solution

1 Rethreading correctly
2 Use proper needle
3 Use good quality threads
4 Reset thread stand
5 Readjust lower knife
6 Readjust knives

7 Sharpen or
8 Replace needle
9 Readjust thread disc pressure or thread guides

position

1 0 Readjust feed dog height

repla--ce

with new knives

Solution

1 Replace needle
2 Replace needle or needle plate
3 Use proper type of needle point

FAULT: THREAD BREAKING

Probable cause

1 Poor quality of thread
2 Thread thicker than needle eye
3 Wrong threading
4 Thread tension too tight
5 Needle wrongly
6 Needle blunt
7 Thread stand wrongly
8 Overheating of needle

9 Needle guards badly adjusted
1 0 Wrong setting of needle and loopers
11

Needle, looper, needle plate and thread

guides worn-out

12 Loopers blunt

installed

installed

Solution

1 Use good quality thread
2 Use proper needle for fabric and thread
3 Rethreading correctly
4 Readjust thread disc pressure
5 Reset needle correctly
6 Replace needle
7 Reset thread stand
8 Use needle cooler device or thread lubricator

device

9 Readjust needle guards

1 0 Readjust needle and looper settings
11

Grind off, polish or replace with new ones

12 Replace loopers

FAULT: SKIPPED STITCHES

22

- TROUBLE SHOOTING CHART

Probable cause

1 Wrong threading
2 Needle wrongly installed
3 Needle bent or blunt

Inadequate thread tension

4
5 Loopers blunt
6 Needle guards badly adjusted

7 Wrong setting of needle and loopers

FAULT: NEEDLE

Probable cause

1 Too strong fabric pulling by operator

2 Wrong needle size
3 Needle wrongly
4 Needle guards badly adjusted
5 Needle bent or blunt

BREAKING

installed

Solution

Rethreading correctly
2 Reset needle correctly
3 Replace needle
4 Readjust thread tension or thread guides

position
5 Replace loopers
6 Readjust
7 Readjust needle/ loopers setting

Solution

1 More care
2 Use proper needle for fabric and thread
3 Reset needle correctly
4 Readjust
5 Replace needle

needle guards

in

fabric handling

needle guards

FAULT:

Probable cause

1 Thread tension badly adjusted
2
3

4 Knives do not trim
5 Wrong setting of differential feed ratio

6 Needle too thick
7 Seam width

FAULT:

Probable cause

2
3 Oil drain plug gasket damaged

IRREGULAR SEAM

Inadequate pressure of presser foot
Inadequate height of feed dogs

neatly

is

too narrow

chain-off finger of needle plate

OIL LEAKING

Screws between base and sump badly
tightened
Oil drain plug not completely screwed

in

relation to the

in

Solution

1 Readjust thread disc pressure
2 Readjust presser foot pressure
3 Readjust feed dogs height
4 Readjust knives or sharpen knives
5 Readjust differential feed ratio
6 Use proper needle size for fabric and thread
7 Readjust seam width or replace needle plate

Solution

Tighten the screws

in

2 Screws

3 Replace the gasket

the plug

FIGURE

FIGURES
FIGURES

ABBILDINGEN

FIGURAS

503

~:

1

TABELLA

DELLE VELOCITA' E DELLE PULEGGE

TABLE

OF

TABLEAU

TAFEL

DER MASCHINEN UNO MOTORSCHEIBEN-GESCHWINDIGKEITEN

TABLA

DE

LAS

motore/motor
Motor/moteur

RMP macchina/ pulegge motore RMP macchina/

machine/ motor pulley machine/ motor pulley

Maschine/ Reimenscheibe Maschine/ Reimenscheibe

machine
maquina poleas del motor maquina poleas del motor

MACHINE SPEED

DES VITESSES DES MACHINES ET DES

VELOCITADES

50

Hz.

poulies

DE

2800 RPM

du

moteur

LAS

MAQUINAS Y

AND

motore/motor
Motor/moteur

machine poulies

4000 772105-0
4500 772107-0
5200
5500
5700
6000
6500
7000

772109-0
772110-0 5500
772111-0
772112-0
772114-0
772116-0

6000
6500

7200
7500 772118-0 7500
8000
8500
9000

772120-0

8000

772122-0 8500 772116-0
722124-0

9000

TYPE OF

DE

4000
4500
5200

5700

DEL
PULLEY

POUUES

LAS

POLEAS

60

MOTORE

DU MOTEUR

DEL

Hz.

3360 RPM

pulegge motore

du

772102-0
772104-0
772106-0
772107-0

772108-0
772109-0
772110-0
772112-0
772113-0
772115-0

772117-0

MOTOR

moteur

2

lmpianto elettrico utente a 5 fili (Neutro distribuito) • Electric system for 5 wires user (distribuited neutral) • Installation

electrique utilisateur a 5 fils (neutre distribue) • Elektrische Anlage Benutzer, fUnfpolig (neutralen Pol) • lnstalaci6n

electrico usuario a 5 cables (Neutro distribuido)

R----~-----------------------------R

s s

T T

N--

PE--

----N

Blu • Bieu • Blau • Azul

-;-

/

- - g:al•o-veroe • yellow-gceM •

I 1a•ne-ven • Gelb-Gri.Jnen • amanllo-veroe

INTERRUTIORE

I

MOTOR CUTOUT SWITCH
INTERRUPTEUR PROTEGE MOTEUR

I

MOTORSCHUTZSCHALTER

I INTERRUPTOR SALYAfv'OTOR

SALYA

....

OTORE

I

I

I
I

_I

Apparecch:atura monofase 220V
220Y S:ngle-phase dev:ce

monophase 220V

Ap;:>aretllage
Etnphas:ge Vornchtung 220V
Aparato monofas•co 220V

lmpianto elettrico utente a 4 fili (Neutro NON distribuito) • Electric system for 4 wires user (NON distribuited neutral)

• Installation electrique utilisateur a 4 fils (neutre NON distribue) • Elektrische Anlage Benutzer, vierpolig (OHNE

neutralen Pol) • lnstalaci6n electrico usuario a 4 cables (Neutro NO distribuido)

6

R----~-------------------------------R

s s

T T

PE-

Blu . non coliegare• Blu · do not coonec1 r

B:eu ·

oe

pas connecter • B:au · n:cht anschl:eBen _

Azul no conec1ar 7

---

INTERRUTIORE
MOTOR CUTOUT SWITCH
INTERRUPTEUR PROTEGE MOTEUR
MOTORSCHUTZSCHALTER
INTERRUPTOR SALVAMOTOR

TRASFORMATORE
TRANSFORMER
TRANSFORMATEUR
TRAFO
TRASFORMADOR
P910054·0

~

SALYAMOTORE

Apparecchiatura monofase 220V
220V Stngle-phase dev:ce
Appare:llage monophase 220V

E:np~as:ge

par a to mono! as•co 220V

A

Yornchtung 220V

7

H

L

\

\ \

M G

F1

M

F

H

9

17

A

18

D

22

21

19

23

A

20

L
B

F

24

A

25

26

F

G

H

.---------------------·-----------

a

A

'-------------==-=-----------1

29

A

L

B

L

B

L
B

30

34

F B

0

c

D

35

B

N

c

37

'------------------------------------------~---------------------~

36

K

39

P M

8/A

38

B

A

40

A

41

a

~Lc..:>

:-::::::::::J~

42

~

~~

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\

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KH~?

~

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G

A

43

b

L:::::':~

~

----

...

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L

G

H

44

°

45

46

47

48

A

A1

ATTENZIONE:

NON AFFERRARE LA TESTA IM-

PUGNANDO QUESTO BRACCIO.

WARNING:

DO NOT TAKE HOLD OF THE

HEAD

ATTENTION:

NE PAS SAISIR LA

EMPOIGNANT CE BRAS.

ACHTUNG:

DAS OBERTEIL NIGHT MIT HILFE
DIESES

ATENCION:

NO
AGARRANDO ESTE BRAZO.

BY

THIS ARM.

ARMES FASSEN.

TOMEN

EL

TETE

CABEZAL

EN

B

--

~----------

_28_

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CF Italia srl Corso Colombo, 46 21013 Gallarate (VA) Italia Tel. [phone] www.cfrimoldi.com / [e-mail]