this catalogue are overedging machines with 2 needles, needle gauge
RIM
27/Fmb ·Thickness
regulated while machine
is
80
· 100.
running.
BY
MACHINE CLASS
3. Push-button stitch length adjustment.
Stitch length variable from 6
4.
5. Differential feed ratio: up
6. Width of bight: from
7. Speed: from 6000
to
3/16"
6500
to
30
stitches per inch.
to
3,5:1 and also up
to
5/16".
RPM,
depending on the tYpe of application and manufacture.
to
4:1.
8. Lubrication: by pump.
9. Motor: 1/3
HP
or 1/2
HP,
according
to
subclasses.
10. Outer dimensions of machine head: 12" x 9.3/4".
11. "''eight: approx. 45 lbs.
3/32",
with the
Page 23
a}
Positioning
After
motor
1.
Force-fit
2. Place machine head
the
of
head
is
mounted
four
INSTALLATION
I.
on stand, proceed as follows:
rubber
shock
absorber
on
table centering
the
pads
lower
on
to
holes in
the
the
AND
pins
head
TIMING
provided
on
the
on
the
machine
shock absorber pad pins.
head
bearing
plate
f'.
.•
b) Assembly
1.
Install driving belt as shown
2.
Check
on
pump
3.
Adjust
that
pulley,
belt
of
transmission
reverse
without
tension
of
driving
by
loosening
in
diagram
belt
slipping.
1.
rides firmly
motor
clamp
and
squarely
4. Level machine head by adjusting machine cradle bolts.
5. Tighten up machine cradle bolt lock·nuts.
c)
Filling lube oil sump (fig. 2)
Unscrew threaded cap
1.
Pour
in
2.
Check
3.
,
red lines .
Replace and tighten cap 'A'.
4.
Before starting
5.
1 and
through
'A:
3/4
pts Esso Standard Teressa
oil-window
up
the machine, the following
that
oil level
is
between
points
43
the
should
oil.
two
be lubricated:
- needle clamp guide rod
-
upper
looper bar
6.
Start
machine slowly. letting it idle for
gradually rev up from 1500 r.p.m.
about
5 minutes and
to
rated operating speed.
d)
Assembly and adjustment of sewing parts
Note: The operations described below are for machine timing
1.
Timing gauges required:
·
S.
.··-.
1686.00
·
S.
1555.00 for operation
2. Preliminary disassembly of:
·-Front
for
all
cover plate
operations
N.
except
4
operation 4 (fig. 4).
· Both thread take·ups of lower looper holder
·
Side Cover Plate (casing) of needle movement
· Upper plate with oil indicator cap
· Side plate protecting needle movement
· Main feed dog
Hg.
2
Page 24
3.
Setting
of needle (fig.
3).
-~
•
if
the
needle plate
be
centred
..
holes
of
the
the
distance between
surface of the needle plate
is
at
its highest point.
if
adjustment
move needle bar clamp up
S.1686.00
setting. Retighten screw A .
is
in
proper position,
for passage through
needle plate .
the
is
necessary, loosen screw A (fig.
as
indicated in
the
.-
needle _points and
is
11/32 inch when
or
down,
fig. 3 to
the
needles
resPective needle
using_
needle gauge
obtain the correct
the
must
the
needle
3}
top
and
~-~
·..--;
__
"""""
-~
i::
A
i
f
-.--·-·;.":":···.--
__
4. Setting primary looper (fig. 4
SETTING OF
fig. 4
Setting
angle
Slightly loosen screw 'D'
Place timing gauge S.1686.00 on milled surface
as
shown
in
fig.
5;
shift
lever C
has been
is
obtained.
Correct
timing table.
Firmly tighten up screw E
set
in
place
but
position can be checked by reference
and
turn
not
locked) until correct angle
(fig.
41.
loosen
mount looper height gauge 5.1555.00 on the primary looper shaft wi:
special
raise
5.1555.00.
slightly tighten screw E (fig. 4).
set thread guide bracket A by raising thread guide bracket to the
primary
retighten screws 8 and
remove looper height gauge 5.1555.00.
looper (which
HEIGHT
screw
E.
screw supplied with gauge as shown in
or
lower looper so
looper
shank.
that
its
point
contacts
E.
of
base
to
the
fig. 3
fig.
the
4.
upper
line
on
timing gaur-
top
of
th
...
Setting
the primary
When the primary
the
left and with
distance
be
If
tion axis. ln its
point
dle scarf.
Retighten
'between
as
indicated
adjustment
should pass 1
scr~w
in
IS
necessa;-y move lever C along its rota·
D
looper
looper
the
the
looper
fig. 6.
stroke
64"
in
has
needle
point
from left
from
relation
completed
in
its lowest position,
the
and
to
bottom
to
the
its stroke
the
needle should
right
of
the
needle:
looper
the
to
the
"·
A
nee-
llg. 5
" .
...
c
----
....
f
Page 25
---------
5.
Timing
Secondary Looper
fig. 6
If
adjustment
is
required, slightly loosen Screw 0 and push
wards, avoiding any change
Lock-screw
Recheck
Tighten up screws A and
Finally, make sure
D.
to
make sure the two loopers are crossing
B.
all
the assembly are moving
Note: To
~ownwards:
mcreased
Slightly
Slightly loosen screw
Adjust crossing
looper
tip
barely
set
the
remember
or
decreased.
loosen screw B.
rotating
passes
behind the
skimming
dimension 1
that
A.
of
secondary
the
secondary
primary
it.
Check distances given in figures 7-8 {see
timing
table).
Durin£ its left
ary looper should barely
in
the distance already fixed. Make sure
to
right
smoothly
motion
skim
and
smoothly.
1/32''
by doing
in Fig. 8,
this
rotate
the
dimensions
fever E
in
upwards
Fig. 7 will
and primary
so
that
its
looper
the
second-
the needle.·
fig. 1
the
complete looper assembly inwards or out-
all
parts move smoothly.
verify
all
the
other
settings.
or
be
6. Setting the needle guards (fig.
To
set
front
needle guard
With needles
Retighten screw
To
set
a~
their lowest position,
C.
rear needle guard
With needles in their lowest position,
Retighten screw
It
must
be checked
D.
break through impact with the primary looper.
of
the
machine and check
breaking
them.
If
this
slightly just above the shanks, where the
9)
A,
loosen screw
B.
loosen screw
that
when working,
that
is
not
fig.B
C.
set
front
needle guard so
D.
set
rear needle guard so
any
eventual slight bending
To
do
this, bend the needles slightly
the
primary looper. during its stroke from left
the case, the needle guards need
part
is
not
so hard. Check
that
that
to
it
touches
it
touches
of
the
be
positioned
that
the
needles.
needles
needles does
correctly
each needle
sponding plane of the front and rear needle guards.
Thread the needles, bringing them
pushing them slightly against rear needle guard
The thread
the
needle
must
run freely.
is
too
low and the thread
to
their lowest position and
B.
If
this
is
not
the
is
trapped
case it means
between needle
that
and needle guard.
~JOTE:
The
point
of
the
looper,
enter
the needle scarf
in
the lower portion.
left,
For very hard synthetic fabrics the needle
on the
front
needle guard.
in
its stroke from left to right,
in
its upper portion
and
must
must
in its
stroke
to
flex considerably
the
D
without
not
towards
to
right, passes
hv
operates
lia.
deflection.
cause
the
bending
in
9
them
inner
without
the
to
part
them
corre-
Page 26
7.
Mounting lower
trimmer
knife (fig. 10)
Mount guide block P on knife-holder with screw
Slide knife D into place.
The
cutting edge
Tighten.
With the needles in its lowest position, bring angle stop 0 close
washer G by tightening
Check
51
- With needles in its lowest position, bring guide block
P close up
tightening
After setting
trimmer
is applied between
Press
screw N firmly.
Pressure should be lightly
strong friction between
their
up
that
ightly tighten screw
knife, slacken screw
one
hardening.
of_
the
trimmer
screw
A.
up
knife holder C moves
N.
to
front
needle guard and lock it by
up
screw
a.
upper
trimmer
the
knives by spring M and pin
finger lightly against screw A and tighten up
the
knife
must
_
screw
F.
smoothly
knife touching lOwer
N.
The proper pressure
exerted
to
avoid generating
two knives resultating
Q.
be
flUsh
with
the
and adjust setting for required bight.
H.
in
·rear needle guard.
to
the needle guard, lock bushing L and
i
'I
i
~-~
;;
__
ie·
'~
«:""
\
N
.
:-.·
··.-:·
---~
8. Mounting and setting Feed Dogs (figures
Remove Plexiglass plate beneath work plate.
Mount rear feed dogs C and D (fig. 11) and match
With a small screwdriver pushed through the threaded holes on
the
screwdriver into
Mount the
Slacken screw
Adjust feed dog angle by rotating eccentric
.---~···
~
front
'
.~
-~'-
the
differential feed
A.
..
""
\;:_
..
~,
groove
on
the
dogE
tip of
11
and 12)
the
screw.
with screw G
B.
c ;
. ! D
--~s
~a"·-~-~-
~
.
•,
fig.
11
I
,,.
the
feed dog slides.
the
but
do not tigh;en it up fully
fig.
10
levers, tighten screw F slightly, inserting
(fig.
12).
fig.
12
The feed dog teeth visible through the needle plate should be absolutely flush with
When
the
feed dogs are
and
the
needle plate.
Feed dog C should
Lock
screw_s
F,
G,
9. Feed mechanism (fig.
Note: The machine heads illustrated in this catalogue are supplied with the feed mechanism already
type
of use to which they
If
feed mechanism adiustm8!"7
at
their highest position, there should be a clearance of 1,3 mm. between
at
the
front
be
lower than the
and
A.
131.
will
be
is
of
the
differential feed dog.
other
two.
put.
r~quired.
proceed
as
follows:
the_
latter.
set
the
for
teeth
the
Page 27
--------
------
1.
Inactivation
Slacken
of
differential
nut
high as it will
up
Tighten
nut
2. Setting differentiaTfeed
Slacken
Set
Lock
pin Q
nut
nut
at
B.
B.
Lower lever H against
3. Setting
differential feed for retia 3.5 : 1
Slacken
Set
Lock
nut
B.
pin Q in lowest positio·n.
nut
B.
Lower lever H against
4. Setting differential feed
Raise cursor C
------
feed:
8 using wrench A supplied
go.
B:
lower lever H against
_
for
ratio 2 : 1
highest position.
stop
G.
stop
G.
for
ratio 4 : 1
to
its highest position
- Proceed as for item 3
- The differential ratio can be changed
5. Setting negative differential feed·
Slacken
Set
Shift
nut
B.
pin
Qat
highest position.
cursor C in lowest position.
with
stop
F and lock knurled knob R manually.
on
slide-barS
w~ile
the
the
machine head, and
machine
is
in
operation
raise
pin
by
adjusting lever
Q on rear feed
E.
dog
lever
as
fig.
13
10.
Mounting
upper
Mount
upper
trimmer
trimmer
knife
knife
(fig. 14).
C on
knife
holder
block
Mount knife holder block D and trimming guards E and G with screw
F.
Trimming guard E should be very close to cutting
,'of knife
edge
When
trimmer
cutting
·trimmer knife by
For
this
slanting seat and
knife holder
Tighten
when
in
guard.
C.
knife
C is
edge should overlap
1/32".
adjustment,
knife
shift
holder
B.
up
screw F and check
lowest
position,
does
at
the
its
I owest
cutting
trimmer
block
that
not
touch
position,
edge
of
knife
A on
th~
the up-per
front
its
lower
in
its
upper
knife,
needle
fig.
F
14
Page 28
e)
Positioning and adjustment
of
presserfoot arm
{fig.
15).
Insert presserfaot
arm
shaft L
in
bus,b.ing
Con
which
Insert presserfoot arm shaft L with bushing C into hole
provided
Slide lever
Slide snapring F on
Set lifter
foot
Slightly tighten screw
With needle
ing
- Engage
When pedal
in
baseplate.
A and spring E on
lever A so
arm shaft L.
arm D
in
guide fork.
lifter lever A
to
shaft
L.
to
shaft
L.
that there
is
no
end·play
on
B.
at
highest position, insert presserfoot bear·
with
presserfoot lifting
is
depressed it should have a slight idle
foot
stroke before actuating presserfoot bearing arm
Adjust lifter lever
tion.
Check
movement
serfoot
below presserfoot
is
at
Tighten up screw
its
A,
by regulating screw
of
secondary
highest
bearing
position.
arm
B.
in
looper; the latter
This
undesirable
0,
on
side
cover.
base beneath
presserfoot
presser-
pedal.
D.
should
condition
the
not
bearing
lever, so
impinge
can
be
arm
that
on
presserfoot
prevented
is
hinged.
E.
~M
L
it lifts presserfoot to required posi·
chaining finger
by
adjusting eccentric
when
washer
pres-·
M,
f)
Adjustment
The
ment.
The moving part C should
needle guard
The cover plate can be shifted towards left
adjusting screw
Lock
g)
Adjustment
of
front
cover plate
front
cover plate should be closed before adjust·
or
the
lower knife holder.
{fig.
16).
not
interfere with the front
B.
nut
A.
of
needle thread takiHip
or
right
by
For making up very tough fabrics, needle thread take·up 270·274/2 should be shifted forwards, towards ope·
rater.
Page 29
ELECTRIC LUBRICATION CONTROL DEVICE (PRESSURE SWITCH)
.-
h) Disasoombly
-·
Take
down
- Remove screw
Slacken
Slip plastic
Remove
Screw
scrAINS previously removed.
Re-install
and
replacement
oil cup from baseplate and drain
by
which pressure switch bracket is
the
two
screws
tube
connecting pressure switch to rubber
bracket
down
and fix it
electric wire lugs, slip plastic
011
cup and
on
fill
of
pressu"'
the
electric wire terminal lugs.
to
new pressure switch.
with oil
as
switch
tube
instructed
out
oil.
mounted
into pressure switch and
on
page 11,
on
connection
par
c.
oil
cup_
off
the
pressure switch.
mount
switch on oil
cup
using
the
Replacement
Proceed as described under items 1 and 2 for replacement
Remove
Re-install rubber
Re-install oil
Electrical
- Plug cable
Nota: If
with
12
Mount
light terminal lugs.
Plug cable
of
pressu"'
rubber
cup
connection
to
current
no
light socket
V. connections, proceed as follows:
a Mignon
to
current
switch lamp
tube, remove lamp (bayonet cap)
tube.
replace pressure switch in position and fasten firmly to
and
fill
of
pressu"'
socket
is
socket
socket
with oil
provided on
pitch 13
as
instructed
switch
on
and insert plug
the
at
one
at
one
end
and
on
page 11, par c
Zafir
moton
at
other
motor
to
be
end
of a cable 4 • 5 inches long
and
to
the
above Mignon
of
pressure switch.
replace with new lamo.
end
of
cable in 12
connected,
but
socket
the
and
at
V.
voltage
the
light
at
011
the
other.
wah
~cr~w
socket
on
connection
other
connect
motor.
box
it
is provided
to
the
12 V.
~
.
Remove cover.
Using a screwdriver, turn indicator 8 in required direc-
tion !Turning towards
the rate
wards
of
flew
the
letter A, the rate of flow
the
letter C puched on
is
decreased, turning the indicator to-
is
increased).
the
plate,
fig.
IS
B
Page 30
.-
TIMING
T A B L E
MACHINE HEAD NUMBERS
227 .()().32
227-00-20
227.()1.()7
227-00-21
----
A
2,5<2,8
2,5<3
2,5<3
8
1,5 3,3<3,5
1,5
1,5
-
c
8,5
3,5
D
0,5
0,3
0,3 8,8
F
-
8,8
Page 31
,
a ·
Thre~umg
.-
II
- USE
I
(~
I
'
•
I
i
\
·~
..
'
\
'
\
\
'
~·
I
I
I
I
~
'\
I
I
I
I
~
~
'
\
-
/
I
'
I
I
I
I
227-o0-32
Page 32
b)
Needle change
1.
Switch
off
motor.
Depress motor'driving pedal
2.
3.
Set needle at
4.
Lower lever
Swing
5.
Slacken
6.
top
dea~
8 as far as it
·out presserfoot from
needle set-screw by
centre.
will
to
check
that machine
go
(fig. 19).
usual
working position.
one
half-turn using screw-
is
absolutely motionless.
driver 290-7 46.
7.
Remove
8.
Insert new needle.
The needle scarf should face
9.
r·
10.
towards
Using
needle touches
Retighten needle set-screw without· displacing
11.
le,
needle.
the
rear
needle guard. i.e.
the
rear
of
the
machine.
pincers supplied with machine kit, check
the
bonom
but do not apply excessive force.
of
the
hole.
the
that
need-
F
c)
Positioning and adJustment
1.
Check
that
presserfoot
Needle should pass between pressurefoot
r
2.
To
adjust presserfoot slacken screw
3.
Center presserfoot
4.
Presserfoot pressure
5.
led
knob
A.
Lock knob A by tightening up screw G with wrench 633-742.
6.
is
in
proper position
is
increased or slackened by loosening screw G with wrench
of
presserfoot (fig. 19)
in
proper position.
F.
shoe
and chaining finger.
and
tighten up screw
F.
fig. 19
633-742
and adjusting knur-
-~
d}
Tensioning discs adjustment
1.
Tighten tension discs just enough for even stitch formation.
2. Avoid over-tightening.
e)
Stitch length adjustment (fig. 13)
1. Slacken screw P using appropriate wrench.
2.
Depress pushbunon 0 and
3. Holding
pushbunon
0 firm,
turn
handwheel M until tip of pushbutton slips into
turn
handwheel M vigorously until indicator N shows
the
notch on
the
desired length on
the
regulator.
handwheel.
4. Tighten up screw P firmly.
f)
Seam width adjustment
Seam width can be adjusted within a very narrow range beyond which the needle plate must be changed.
To
vary seam width within the above narrow range, proceed as follows:
1.
Slacken screw N of lower knife holder (fig. 10).
2.
Slacken screw F (fig. 14).
Shift upper knife holder block A (fig. 14)
3.
4. Tighten up screw F
(fig.
14)
5. Lower knife holder should be checked and set
to
right
as
or
left until desired seam width
described
in
paragraph
d)
7.
is
obtained.
the
r
Page 33
g) Trouble due to incorrect handling
.-
of
machine
..
No.
1
2
3
TROUBLE
Uneven stitches
Feed
and Fabric
slipping sideways
Machine skipping
stitches
PROBABLE CAUSE
- Tension badly adjusted
- Thread take-ups incorrectly adjusted
- Wrong threading
- Yarns
- Presserfoot pressure too I ight
- Height and slant
- Knives require sharpening
- Differential badly adjusted
- Primary
- Loopers
- Loopers
- Front needle guard too far from needle ..
- Needle
not
gauged
of
feed
or
Secondary Looper badly adjusted in respect
looper bncomcs blunted
too
far apart at crossing
too
near at crossing, thus becoming blunted
not
Set
in proper position
dogs
not
properly adjusted
of
needle
so
-
that
4 Thread breaking
Needle breaking
5
Fabric being punctured
6
Dilleaking
7
Faulty
8
lubrication - Oil level
- Tensions
- Yarn irregularly
Needle bent
-
-
Needle badly mounted
-
Blunt needle
- Needle
- Needle
-
Screws
Oil cup plug
-
- Oil cup gasket badly mounted
- V - belt incorrectly mounted
Upper tube clogged
-
- Lubrication pump
too
taut
wound
on
unsuitable
size
point
unsuitable
mounting oil cup on
not
screwed down
too
low
filter
for
clogged
reel
plate
base
tightly
not
sufficiently tightened up
Page 34
Ill. MAINTENANCE
a)
Daily
·-
Lightly clean feed and stitch formation mechanisms.