RIESE & MULLER Birdy, Frog Instruction Manual

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Page 1

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Birdy

Frog

Page 2

Shifting, p. 36

Derailleur, p. 38

Hub gear, p. 41

Wheel attachment, p. 46

Wheels and tires, p. 44

Brake lever, p. 19

Shifter, p. 37

Seatpost, p. 16

Stem, Handlebar, p. 18

Stem folding hinge, p. 24

Headset, p. 52

Lighting, p. 55

Suspension fork, p. 25

Front swingarm

catch, p. 54

Brakes

Rim brakes, p. 32

Disc brakes, p. 35

Chain, p. 43

Rear suspension, p. 21

Saddle, p. 18

Page 3

Text and concept

riese und müller GmbH

Graphic Design

www.wolf-corporate.de

Photography

Kay Tkatzik, riese und müller GmbH

Torque settings in this manual

are specied in Nm. Do not rely on your feeling: “tight” is simply not precise enough. ONLY a

torque wrench can ensure that

the bolt is properly tightened. You should always use this tool

to tighten the components to the

specied torque setting. A bolt

that is too tight or too loose can

cause malfunctions which could lead to an accident.

DANGER!

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Dear customer,

Congratulations on your new Riese & Müller bike. Thank you for choosing

us for your mobility needs. Riese & Müller builds lightweight and practical

bikes that are characterized by exceptional handling and award win-

ning design. Your dealer has performed the ﬁnal assembly of the bike

and possibly implemented some requested changes for you. They have

performed a test ride to ensure an enjoyable riding experience from the

very start. During the design process, we constantly think about your

riding enjoyment and safety. Even though we cannot

anticipate every

possible scenario, this manual answers many of the key

questions you

may have and gives you many tips on using your bike.

Furthermore, a lot of interesting facts about bicycle technology, mainte-

nance and upkeep are summarized for you to ensure that you enjoy your

new Riese & Müller bike for many years for come. If after reading this

manual, you still have questions, please feel free to contact your dealer

or us directly. Since our bikes are constantly being updated and improved,

we may provide additional supplementary pages to ensure you have the

most up to date information. Please be mindful that some updated infor-

mation may have already been included with your new bike.

The Riese & Müller Team

Page 5

4 General information

6 Before the ﬁrst ride

8 Before every ride

9 Legal requirements

10 Unfolding your Birdy

12 Folding your Birdy

14 Transporting your Birdy

16 Adjusting the riding position

20 Pedals

21 Adjusting the suspension

22 Quick release

24 Stem folding hinge

27 Front swingarm catch

28 Rear swingarm catch

30 Brakes

36 Shifting system

43 Chain

44 Wheels and tires

52 Function of the headset

54 Suspension pivot bearings

55 Lighting system

56 General care/Inspections

59 Warranty/Guarantee

62 Torque settings

64 Service and maintenance plan

66 Documents and service record

CONTENTS

Page 6

GENERAL INFORMATION

Riese & Müller bicycles are equipped with innovative technology. So please read this manual

even if you are an experienced cyclist.

To ensure you always have a fun and safe ride, you should perform the quick check before

every ride. For instructions on this quick check please see page 6.

In this manual, a number of maintenance and repair tasks are described in detail. If you

engage in this activity you must always consider that the instructions are exclusively for the

designated Riese & Müller bicycles and are not transferable to other bikes.

Through a variety of design and model changes it is possible that the included instructions are

not up to date. If necessary, review the separately attached instructions.

Note that the successful execution of the included instructions may require special tools or

technical expertise. If you are uncomfortable performing any of the listed tasks, please seek

the assistance of a professional.

If you reach a certain point where you are not sure how to proceed, please contact your local

dealer or us directly. We are happy to help!

The following are a few things that we cyclists hold very dear. Always take care in trac as

not to endanger yourself or others. Respect the rules of the road so you don’t draw the ire of

other road users. If you tour through forests and meadows, please respect nature by cycling

only on marked or paved roadways. Observe the legal requirements for the o-road use of bi-

cycles, which are available from your local authorities. Never ride without a helmet and make

sure you always wear appropriate clothing.

We hope you enjoy your new Birdy!

Do not ride if the test wasn’t passed with 100% certainty.

DANGER!

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We’ll begin by telling you about the parts of your Birdy. Open the front cover of this

brochure. Here you’ll ﬁnd a Birdy with all of the relevant parts clearly shown.

Tip! Keep the front cover opened as this makes orientation easier!

We have tried to vividly portray all of the relevant information to ensure your satisfaction with

your new Riese & Müller bike. Therefore we use the following symbols:

Attention! Here is a hint that will help you quickly become familiar with your bike and its

technology.

Danger! This symbol indicates that life-threatening risks are possible if the correspond-

ing instructions are not followed. Please read carefully.

Tip! This symbol indicates useful additional information.

This manual covers the installation and maintenance work that may be best performed by your local dealer (p. 62 - 63). Do not perform any task that you are uncomfortable with. Many of these tasks require special knowledge and tools and should only be performed by an expert. Never ride your bike with incomplete or improper maintenance. You could endanger your life or the lives of others.

DANGER!

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BEFORE THE FIRST RIDE

CARRIERS/TRAILER BIKES

Only two-wheel trailers with attachment at the rear axle are approved for use with the Birdy.

TRAILER HITCH

We recommend the “Weber-trailer hitch”.

INTENDED USE

Use the Birdy only on streets and surfaced roads. We can take no responsibility for the

consequences of inappropriate use, assembly errors, accidents, racing, jumping

or similar activities.

BIRDY GROSS VEHICLE WEIGHT RATING

(Birdy, rider and carrier load) 120 kg (265 lbs)

MAX. CARRIER WEIGHT RATING

Expedition carrier 15 kg (33 lbs)

Lowrider 10 kg (22 lbs)

SL carrier 12 kg (26 lbs)

Max. trailer weight rating (including carrier weight) 50 kg (110 lbs)

HEIGHT

The Birdy accommodates riders up to a height of 195cm.

Other trailer hitches do not guarantee perfect function of trailer and suspension and could cause accidents or damage!

DANGER!

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CLOTHING

Wear bike appropriate clothes. Never ride without wearing a helmet!

BRAKES

Are you familiar with the braking system? Check to make sure that the front brake lever is on

the side of the handlebar that you are used to. If it isn’t then you can either train with the new

arrangement or have your dealer change the arrangement to ﬁt your needs.

SHIFTING

Are you conﬁdent that you know how to change gears?

Conduct a test ride to familiarize yourself with the shifting system in a low-trac area. You

can read more about gearing systems on pages 36-42.

SEATING POSITION

Are the saddle and handlebar in the right position? Your dealer can assist you in ﬁnding the

best seating position. The saddle should be adjusted so that with the pedal in its lowest posi-

tion, you can just reach it with your heel. Check that you can stay in the saddle and still reach

the ground with your tiptoes. Your dealer will be able to help you if you’re not happy with your

saddle position. You can read more about seating position on pages 16-20.

SUSPENSION

Is the suspension adjusted to suit your needs? More information regarding suspension on

page 21.

Modern brakes are much more powerful than simple rim or drum brakes. Make sure to rst test the braking power before heading into trac. Unintended braking can lead to an accident. Slowly squeeze the brake to generate more braking force. You can read more about the braking system on pages 30-35.

DANGER!

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BEFORE EVERY RIDE

Before every journey you must check the following points:

Are the quick releases on the wheels, the stem and the seatpost clamp all correctly fastened?

Read more on pages 22 – 23 of this manual.

• Is the tension lever on the stem hinge closed correctly? Are all hinge parts for the stem hinge

present? More information on page 24 – 26.

• Is the quick release lever on the height adjustable stem closed?

• Is the pin of the height adjustable stem fully snapped into one of the holes.

More on lighting on page 55.

• Is the max. load not exceeded (page 6)?

• As you ride, always listen out for unusual rattling noises or unusual handling – these could

indicate a problem. If this occurs, check bearings, pivots, all fasteners and parts of the folding

mechanism.

Do not ride the bike if your bike fails any of these checks! If in doubt, always consult your dealer. A defective bike can lead to serious accidents!

DANGER!

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LEGAL REQUIREMENTS

When you ride your bike on the road, it must comply with trac laws and guidelines.

These will vary from country to country. In general, there are minimum standards for brakes,

reﬂectors and lighting systems, as well as usually a general responsibility to ensure that

your vehicle is in roadworthy and in safe condition. You also have a duty to ride in a safe and

responsible manner. If you ride your Birdy in trac, be sure to observe all relevant laws and

regulations. Please ask your local transportation administration for current information.

BRAKES

In most countries, including Germany and the UK, two independent brakes are

required. Do not ride with only one functioning brake!

LIGHTS

Bicycle lighting systems need to comply with the relevant national standards.

Page 12

UNFOLDING YOUR BIRDY

• Open the seatpost quick-release and raise

the seatpost to the appropriate height (no-

tice the height marks on the post).

• Close the quick-release again. Do not raise

the seatpost beyond the minimum inser-

tion mark (see page 15).

• If your Birdy is equipped with a height-ad-

justable stem, open the height-adjustment

quick-release, press the pin and raise the

stem to the desired height.

• Carefully close the quick-release.

• Check that everything is secure on the

stem, by holding the front wheel between

your legs and attempting to twist the han-

dlebar with your hands. If it doesn’t turn,

it’s secure.

01 02

• Unfold the stem and handlebars.

• Close the hinge lever.

ATTENTION!

Do not pull out the seat post above the minimum insertion mark. Please read page 23.

Page 13

• Lift the Birdy by the handlebar, unfold the

front wheel and put the Birdy back on the

ground.

• Press brieﬂy on the handlebar, so that the

front spring audibly engages in the front

swingarm catch.

• Adjust the seatpost to the correct height.

Turn the saddle so it is in line with the bike,

by lining up the front of the saddle with the

bottom bracket or along the main frame

tube.

• Check that the seatpost is securely xed

by grasping the front and rear of the sad-

dle and attempting to twist it. If it doesn’t

move at all, it’s secure.

• Lift the Birdy by the saddle, so that the rear

swingarm swings backwards.

• Engage the rear swingarm catch.

If you have one, unfold the kickstand.

ATTENTION!

Under no circumstances should

the stem be raised beyond the

‘MINIMUM INSERTION’ mark.

Check that the pin engages in one of the holes at the stem.

Page 14

• Fold the front swingarm right under until

the front wheel rests next to the main

frame tube, and the tire grips up against

the ﬁxing screw on the front forks.

• Put the bike back down. If you have one,

fold up the kickstand. Lift the bike a little

by the saddle and open the rear swingarm

catch with a light outward pull.

• Now fold the rear swingarm forward and

put the Birdy back on the ground.

• Now open the seatpost quick release and

lower the saddle as far down as it will go.

Close the quick release.

• Finally, open the stem hinge lever and fold

the handlebars down. Finished!

With a little practice you can easily fold the

Birdy very quickly. The folding procedure is

as follows:

• Select the highest gear – the chain should

be on the smallest sprocket.

• If your Birdy is equipped with a height-ad-

justable stem, open the height-adjustment

quick-release, press the pin and lower the

stem to the lowest pin hole. Close the quick

release again.

• Ensure the right-side pedal points up-

wards (the crank should be in line with

the seatpost).

• Stand on the left side of the Birdy and grip

the handlebar with your right hand. Press

the front swingarm catch with the left

hand, so that it releases the spring from the

fork.

FOLDING YOUR BIRDY

Page 15

BIRDY RACE

The drop bars on this model increase its

folded size. Depending on the setting of the

bar, the end of the bar can touch the brake

disc. This should be avoided as it can cause

brake pad deformation. Additionally the

stem should not be raised to the highest

position because this can place too much

pressure on the brake and shifting cables.

Prior to folding ensure that the chain is

on the largest chainring and the smallest

sprocket to ensure the chain does not jam

or fall o during folding.

TIP!

Do not store the Birdy Rohloff on its side for a long time. There is the possibility of oil leakage from the Rohloff Speedhub. This is

technically harmless but should be remembered when storing the Birdy in sensitive areas.

Page 16

Once folded, your Birdy is easily transport-

ed in the trunk of a car, on trains, buses,

ferries and airplanes.

TRAIN TRAVEL

Some train services require that your Birdy

is covered up in a bag, especially if it is

carried on as normal luggage, rather than

placed in the luggage car or designated

storage area. Two Birdy bags are available:

the protective cover and the rucksack bag.

The protective cover slides over the Birdy in

one easy motion, and is closed at the bot-

tom with a pull on the drawcord. The cover

is made from tear-resistant nylon. Like a

poncho, it folds up very small into its inte-

grated mesh pouch, and is then fastened to

the bike. The rucksack bag is an ideal Birdy

accessory. Two large compartments carry

all of your belongings. Open up another

zip and another compartment opens up to

allow you to stow your Birdy. The bike can

then be easily carried with the padded shoul-

der strap or the carry-handle. You can still use

the other luggage compartments. It’s made

from extremely durable Cordura Plus.

AIR TRAVEL

We recommend that when you take your

Birdy on a plane you package it in a strong

box – for example, the box in which it ar-

rived at your dealer. The pedals should be

removed and packaged separately. Another

possibility is the use of the rucksack bag –

we recommend that in this case you use

plenty of additional cardboard and bub-

blewrap to protect against bumps. The rear

derailleur is the most vulnerable part of

the bike: we recommend that you unscrew

it from the frame, wrap it in bubblewrap,

and tape it to the frame so that it won’t be

vulnerable to impacts.

The Birdy suitcase has two small wheels

and can be used like a trolley because of its

telescopic grip. Before putting the Birdy into

the suitcase the pedals must be removed.

Because of the many variations of the Birdy

accessories (fenders, kickstand, carriers,

lighting) is may be necessary to remove

some of them.

TRANSPORTING YOUR BIRDY

Backpack SuitcaseCover

TIP!

If the suitcase gets damaged during the ight please contact the airlines baggage department immediately to le a damage claim.

Page 17

Page 18

ADJUSTING THE RIDING POSITION

HOW CAN I CHECK MY SEATING POSITION?

A good riding position is important for your

comfort and for optimal performance on the

bike. You need to adjust saddle and handle-

bars very precisely to ensure the best possi-

ble ﬁt. Several components on the Birdy are

designed to adjust to suit your body dimen-

sions. If required, you dealer will be pleased

to change the stem on your Birdy.

ADJUSTING FOR THE CORRECT SADDLE HEIGHT

The need for a comfortable pedaling action

determines the saddle height. It’s important

that when you pedal, the ball of the foot

should be over the center of the pedal axle.

When the pedal is at its lowest position your

leg should not be quite fully extended. If

the saddle is too high, it’s hard to get round

this lowest point, and the pedaling action

becomes uneven. If the saddle is too low,

you’re likely to experience knee pain.

Check the seat height using the following

simple procedure. Use shoes with a ﬂat sole

for this check:

• Sit on the saddle and put your heel on the

pedal, so that it moves to its lowest posi-

tion. In this position the leg should be fully

extended. Note that the hips should stay

straight and level.

• To adjust the seat height, you need to undo

the quick-release.

• The loosened seatpost can now be adjust-

ed for height. Make sure that the seatpost

is not greased. If it doesn’t slide smoothly in

the frame, clean out and remove all grease

from inside the frame and on the seatpost.

If you have further problems, consult your

dealer. It should never require extreme

force to adjust the seatpost.

• Set the saddle straight, by lining up the

saddle nose either with the bottom bracket

or the main frame tube. Close the quick

release.

• Check that the seatpost is securely xed

by grasping the front and rear of the sad-

dle and attempting to twist it. If it doesn’t

move at all, it’s secure.

• Does the leg extension seem correct when

you repeat the test? Check it by moving

your foot to the ideal pedaling position,

with the ball of the foot above the pedal

axle. The knee should now be slightly bent

All of the procedures we are about to describe require a certain de-gree of skill, suitable tools and mechanical aptitude. After any assembly or maintenance procedure, perform the Quick Check (see page

8) and take a short test-ride some-

where quiet, away from trac.

This lets you check in safety that everything works properly. If you have any doubts, it’s best just to do the riding position check, and then to explain any changes you’d like to your dealer. They can carry out your requests with all the proper tools and skills, perhaps in con-

junction with the rst inspection.

DANGER!

Page 19

– if this is so, you’ve reached the correct

saddle height.

• Check that you can stay in the saddle and

still reach the ground with your tiptoes. If

this isn’t the case, put the saddle a little

lower.

• Memorize the insertion mark on the

seatpost so that when later unfolding you

immediately know the correct height of the

seatpost.

BIRDY STEMS

Two dierent handlebar stems are available

for the Birdy:

• Sport stem, adjustable – allows sporty posi-

tion for riders of all sizes

• Comfort stem, adjustable – the handlebar

is closer to the saddle and allows a more

upright rider position

Your dealer can change the stem following

your needs.

Upright rider’s position

Advantage: lower load on the wrists, arms

and cervical spine.

Disadvantage: higher load on the saddle.

Sporty rider’s position

Advantage: less loads for the seating area,

more ecient performance, less air resist-

ance, more weight on the front wheel.

Disadvantage: higher loads for the wrists,

arms and cervical spine.

Do not ride if the seatpost is withdrawn beyond the ‘MINI-

MUM INSERTION’ mark! This

mark must not be visible: if it is, the seatpost could break or the frame could be damaged. The seatpost is not designed for mounting bags or carriers on the seatpost or the saddle. This could overload of the seatpost!

DANGER!

Page 20

ADJUSTING THE HANDLEBARS

• Open the quick release at the stem.

• Press the pin and adjust the stem to the

desired height. The pin has to engage again

into one of the holes.

ADJUSTING THE RIDING POSITION

ADJUSTING REACH AND SETTING

THE SADDLE ANGLE

The distance between the handlebar grips

and the saddle (reach), and the angle of the

saddle, are important factors when it comes

to how much you’re leaning forwards, and

hence for your riding comfort and perfor-

mance. The reach can be adjusted over a

short distance using the saddle rails, by slid-

ing the saddle forward or backward on the

seatpost clamp. This will also aect pedaling:

if the saddle is all the way back, you’ll be

pedaling more “from behind”, and vice versa.

The geometry of the Birdy was designed so

that for normal use, the saddle is positioned

as far forwards as possible. This minimizes

folded size. The saddle should in general be

set dead level.

• Release seatpost clamp bolt A, turning at

most three or four turns anticlockwise.

No more, or the whole assembly can fall

apart.

Do not ride if the stem is ex-

tended beyond the ‘MINIMUM INSERTION’ mark!

Do not ride if the quick release of the adjustable stem is not tightened or the pin is not engaged in one of the holes.

Never open the quick release while riding!

DANGER!

Page 21

• Move the saddle forward or backward as

required. Often only a light bump to the

saddle is needed. Retighten the bolts, turn-

ing them clockwise.

• Adjust the saddle angle and tighten bolt A.

Observe the recommended torque setting

of 9-12 Nm.

• When you’ve tightened everything, check

whether the saddle tilts, by pushing alter-

nately on the front and back.

ADJUSTING THE REACH OF THE

BRAKE LEVERS

The distance between brake levers and

handlebar grips is adjustable. The levers

can be brought closer to the bars, mak-

ing them easier to use for riders with

small hands. The lever position where

the brakes start to “bite” also needs to be

adjusted for finger length.

• Check when the brake pads hit the rim. If

this “bite point” comes after just a short

movement of the levers, you’ll have to

adjust the cable in order to alter the lever

reach (see page 31). Otherwise, the brakes

may rub on the rims after the reach

adjustment. If, however, the brakes only

bite after the levers are halfway to the

bars, you have some “play” with which to

adjust lever reach.

• There’s a small adjuster screw just near

where the cable goes into the lever hous-

ing (see arrow on diagram). Screw this

adjuster in, and observe how the lever

position changes.

• When you’ve reached the desired posi-

tion, you must check that there’s still

enough available motion so that there’s

a little lever movement before the

brakes “bite” (see page 31).

When you change saddles, check that the saddle rails are designed for a 7mm clamp. Other types of saddle rails may cause failure of the seat clamp and lead to an accident.

You shouldn’t be able to pull the levers all the way to the handlebar! Maximum braking power should be reached before this!

DANGER!

Page 22

ADJUSTING THE RIDING POSITION, PEDALS

Once you’ve adjusted the handlebar angle,

you need to adjust the brake lever position.

Loosen the hex-key bolt on the lever hous-

ing clamps.

• Turn the lever on the handlebar. Sit on the

saddle and grip the levers with your ﬁngers.

Check that your hand makes a straight line

with your forearm.

• Retighten the bolts (torque setting 5-6 Nm).

BAR ENDS

Bar ends oer additional hand positions.

They are generally ﬁtted so that the hands

rest comfortably on them, when the rider is

in a slightly leaned forward position. They

are usually angled upwards at about 25

degrees.

PEDALS

Grease the threads before assembly and

insert the pedal by rotating the axle 2 or

3 turns by hand. The left/right pedal has a

“L”/“R”-sign. Tighten the pedals to 15 Nm.

Always be sure that securing bolts on stem, handlebars, bar ends and brakes are tightened to the appropriate torque setting. The appropriate values are listed on pages 62. Otherwise, it’s possible that parts may come loose or break. This can lead to serious accidents.

DANGER!

ATTENTION!

The handlebar stem is designed for handlebar bags or baskets up to 3 kg (max. load including the weight of bar and basket).

Page 23

ADJUSTING THE SUSPENSION

CHANGING THE REAR ELASTOMER

The Birdy is ﬁtted as standard with a red

elastomer, which is suitable for a very wide

range of conditions. It can, however, some-

times make sense to ﬁne-tune the riding

qualities to your personal taste by changing

the rear elastomer to reﬂect your particular

weight, riding style and the state of your

local roads. A softer yellow elastomer and a

harder, green one are available. To change it

simply fold the rear swingarm down and pull

the elastomer o with your hand. The fol-

lowing table may help you select the correct

elastomer. Please note that elastomers get

“harder” at low temperatures. It could there-

fore be a good idea to change to a “softer”

elastomer in winter.

CHANGING THE FRONT ELASTOMER

The front elastomer can also be exchanged

for a harder version. The standard version is

hollow, while the harder version is solid.

The elastomer can be pushed out of the

spring with a screwdriver.

yellow

red

Choice of rear elastomer kg

110

105

100

95 90 85 80

75 70 65

Comfort Allround Sport

green

Page 24

QUICK RELEASE

Quick releases hold wheels, seatpost and the

height-adjustable stem in position.

A quick release consists of two basic parts:

• A lever (1) on one side of the hub that pro-

duces the clamping force.

• A locking nut (2) which is threaded on the

opposite side that sets the tension.

HANDLING OF QUICK RELEASES

Open the lever. You should now be able to

read the word “Open”.

• To close it, move the lever so that on the

outside it reads “Close”. At the beginning

of the closing movement, about half of the

lever travel, the lever must be slightly tight.

• During the second half of the lever’s travel,

the leverage increases signiﬁcantly. Finally,

the lever is very tight and is dicult to

move. Use the palm of the hand to close

the lever. Once closed the lever must be

parallel to the wheel and not project out

laterally.

• Check the t by attempting to turn the

closed lever. When the lever rotates, it is

not safe to use the bike. You have to open

it again to retighten it. Do this by turning

the locking nut one-half turn (while holding

quick release).

An incompletely or improperly closed quick-release can result in parts coming loose or even a crash resulting in serious injury!

DANGER!

Page 25

• Check the t again. When the lever no

longer rotates, it is clamped properly.

• Lift the wheel several inches o of the

ground and give the top of the tire a little

whack. A securely ﬁxed wheel should

remain in the frame.

• To check the handlebar quick release,

wedge the front wheel between your legs

and attempt to twist the handlebar. If it

doesn’t turn when you do this test, the

stem is secure.

SEATPOST CLAMP

The quick release nut has to be adjusted that

on the one hand the seatpost is ﬁxed tight

enough and on the other hand the seat-

post can slide easily after opening the quick

release.

The position of the clamp should be with the

lever at the right side. When used with the

expedition carrier the clamp must be rotated

about 90 degrees.

ATTENTION!

Check the position of the clamp regularly. The clamp should sit

completely ush with the seat tube

to ensure best clamping function.

Page 26

STEM FOLDING HINGE

TENSION LEVER

This type of folding hinge type allows the

adjustment of tension and action point.

FUNCTION OF THE FOLDING HINGE

The folding hinge is correctly adjusted by

Riese & Müller at our factory. However it can

be maintained by an expert.

The following description helps to ﬁnd and

eliminate errors.

HOW TO ADJUST THE CLAMPING FORCE

The mechanism is adjusted by turning the

tension rod.

• Close the lever. Loosen the nut several

turns.

• Open the lever.

• Now you can adjust the tension rod with a

2.5 mm allen wrench.

• Close the lever again and tighten the nut

(torque setting 2-3Nm)

• Check the tightening force. The lever should

move easily but should have no play when

closed. If this is not, the tension rod has to

be adjusted again.

ATTENTION!

This folding hinge consists of many parts and any maintenance is best done by your dealer. Incorrect assembly can lead to malfunction and loss of steering control!

Page 27

HOW TO ADJUST THE AXIAL PLAY

If there is too much play ﬁrst check if the

right bolt M 4x10 is suciently tightened.

• To reduce the play, rst loosen both bolts

M4x16. Slightly tighten the left bolt M4x10.

Watch for correct ﬁt of the cap.

• Tighten both bolts M4x16 again (torque set-

ting 2-3 Nm).

• If the lever becomes sti, there is too little

play. Loosen both bolts M 4x16 and then

bol t M 4x10.

• Loosen the lever and tighten both bolts

M4x16 again (torque setting 2–3 Nm).

• Tighten left bolt M 4x10 (torque setting

1 Nm).

HOW TO ADJUST THE ACTION POINT

The point of maximum clamping force should

be reached shortly before the end position.

Otherwise it has to be adjusted.

• Open the left bolt M 4x10 for a half rotation.

• Loosen one of the M 4x16 bolts and tighten

the other one (see arrows in picture). The

white arrows show how to achieve an

earlier action point.

• After correct adjustment of the action point

please tighten both bolts M 4x16.

• Check again for correct tightening force.

ATTENTION!

Always tighten the left bolt M 4x10 after tightening both bolts M 4x16. Otherwise the axial play can change!

Page 28

STEM FOLDING HINGE

HOW TO GREASE THE FOLDING HINGE

In general there is no maintenance needed.

But after frequent use or after heavy rain we

recommend to clean the folding hinge and to

apply some viscous oil.

HOW TO DISMANTLE THE FOLDING HINGE

The folding hinge should be dismantled only

by an expert.

• Open the lever and remove left and right

bol t M 4x10.

• Loosen both bolts M 4x16.

• Push the eccentric to the right side until you

can see the grub screw at the right side.

Loosen the grub screw.

• Remove bolt from the eccentric.

• Clean all parts with a dry cloth.

HOW TO ASSEMBLE THE FOLDING HINGE

• Grease inside of shell and the areas of

eccentric and bolt which touch the folding

hinge. Grease the cone and the washers.

• Place the washers on the folding hinge

plates (use some grease to hold them on).

• Place the cone and the tension rod

together with the shell into the folding

hinge plate.

• Push the eccentric through washer, folding

hinge plate and shell.

• Push the bolt onto the eccentric and as-

sembly the right bolt M 4x10. Tighten the

grub screw. Take care that the grub screw

hits the ﬂat section of the eccentric.

• Put the lever onto the eccentric. As-

semble cap and left bolt M 4x10. Do not

tighten the bolts.

• Adjust clamping force, action point and

axial play. Take care of correct tightening of

all bolts.

ATTENTION!

Now the stem is loose and can fall down! Watch out for the thin washers.

Page 29

REAR SWINGARM CATCH

When unfolded, the rear swingarm is at-

tached to the frame with a black plastic catch.

You should adjust the position of this catch

so that it engages automatically when you

unfold the Birdy, and so that there’s no play.

HOW TO ADJUST THE REAR CATCH

• To adjust it, you must loosen both allen

bolts inside the rear swingarm box proﬁle.

• The catch can then be pushed inwards or

outwards.

• Finally, retighten both bolts with a torque

of 2-3 Nm.

• Open and close the catch several times to

check the adjustment.

• The M 6 x 12 bolt is secured into the main

frame with threadlock adhesive. The bolt

should be screwed in just far enough that

when the catch is engaged, it’s under slight

tension inwards.

• If the tension is no longer sucient for the

catch to engage, you need to pretension

the catch: fold the rear swingarm slightly

forwards, remove the elastomer and bend

the plastic catch ﬁrmly inwards for a few

seconds.

TIP!

Lean on the saddle during adjustment to reduce play!

Page 30

FRONT SWINGARM CATCH

When you unfold the Birdy the front suspen-

sion spring engages in the front swingarm

catch. This catch consists of a metal hook,

which pivots on a shaft mounted on the fork

crown, and it’s kept in tension with a small

spring. If this hook doesn’t move or if it is not

being pulled back properly by the spring, the

two fork clamping bolts may be too tight,

or the spring may have failed. In this case,

please ask your dealer to help. The hook

should engage in the last turn of the spring

and should ﬁx it in position. To fold, press

down on the suspension catch: this moves

the hook clear of the spring.

HOW TO ADJUST THE FRONT

SWINGARM CATCH

• If the catch hook doesn’t engage cleanly in

the ﬁrst turn of the spring, the spring must

be rotated.

• Loosen the fastener at the bottom of the

spring with a long 5mm hex key, which

you should insert from the free end of the

spring. Only turn the spring far enough to

ensure that the top turn of the spring ends

in the seven-o-clock position, and engages

the catch hook without play. The spring

must be carefully lined up with the black

plastic cap so that it slides easily onto the

cap and engages with the catch.

ATTENTION!

Do not ride if the front swingarm catch is not engaged correctly. The result could be a sudden unwanted folding of the front swingarm which could lead to a serious accident!

Page 31

• Finally reattach the spring in place with a

torque of 6 – 8 Nm.

If the fork spring doesn’t engage without

play, both the spring position and that of

the black plastic cap can be adjusted. Exact

adjustment can require some experience,

and any problems should be referred to your

Birdy dealer.

HOW TO ADJUST THE STOPBOLTS

The new Birdy with monocoque frame has

two bolts with plastic head to adjust the

swingarms end position at folding. The front

bolt always has to be tightened completely.

The thread has to be secured with a small

drop of Loctite.

The bolt at the bottom has an additional

lock nut. Adjust the bolt to achieve minimal

play in the rear swingarm after pushing

down on the seatpost.

Page 32

BRAKES

HOW TO USE THE BRAKES CORRECTLY

The Birdy is equipped with particularly pow-

erful brakes. The stopping distance however

depends also on the rider’s skill. No worries

as this can be trained.

When you brake, your weight is shifted to

the front wheel from the rear wheel. The

strength of the deceleration is the primary

factor in bicycle rollover with the secondary

factor being the traction of the tires. This

can be particularly problematic when riding

downhill. During an emergency stop try to

shift your weight as far back as possible.

Press both brake levers at the same time

and note that the front brake transmits

much more braking force due to the shifting

weight. Avoid, however, locking the front

wheel as this can cause slipping or even a

rollover.

If your bike is equipped with a coaster brake

and only one hand brake, the brake lever will

be located on the right side and will operate

the front brake. If your bike is equipped with

two brake levers, the one on the right oper-

ates the rear brake and the one on the left

operates the front brake.

Familiarize yourself with the orientation

or ask your dealer to change them to your

liking.

Make sure to familiarize yourself with the brakes gradually. Practice emergency braking in

a trac-free area until you are

able to safely control the bike. This can prevent accidents while on the road.

After long downhill sections the rims can become very hot.

Rest regularly to let the rims

cool down. Overheated rims can lead to a puncture or even an accident!

Some dealers change the orientation of the brake levers because there are different opinions as to which orientation is correct. Therefore please check before

your rst ride, whether the above

orientation matches your bike and your preferences.

DANGER!

Page 33

HOW THEY WORK, AND HOW THEY

GET WORN OUT

By using a brake lever or reverse pedaling a

ﬁxed pad is pressed onto a rotating brak-

ing surface and causes friction. This friction

causes the rotating wheel to slow. In addi-

tion to the force with which the pad presses

against the surface, the so called friction

coecient between the ﬁxed pad and the

braking surface is crucial. If water, dirt or oil

gets onto the braking surface, the friction

coecient is worsened. This is the reason

why a rim or disc brake does not respond as

well in the rain.

WEARING

The friction between the brake pads and the

rim leads to the wearing of both the pad and

the rim! Riding often in the rain increases the

wear. If the rim sidewall is abraded to a criti-

cal level, the tire pressure will cause the rim

to burst. The wheel can jam or the tube may

burst, both of which can lead to an accident.

ATTENTION!

By the time you have worn through your second set of brake pads, it is time to have your dealer check the thickness of your rims’ sidewalls. For rims with a wear indicator, the rim must be replaced when the indicator is no longer visible.

Moisture decreases the braking effectiveness. When riding in rainy conditions expect longer braking distances! When replacing brake pads, you should only use pads

that have been specied for your

system. Your dealer can advise you in the matter. The braking surface of rims should be absolutely wax, grease and oil free.

Damaged brake cables in which individual wires protrude must be replaced immediately. Brake failure and an accident can result. Ask your dealer for advice.

DANGER!

Page 34

BRAKES

CHECKING, ADJUSTING AND BALANCING

VBRAKES

V-brakes consist of separately mounted

brake arms on the left and right side of the

wheel. When the brake arms are pulled to-

gether with a cable the pads rub on the rim

generating friction.

Function check:

• Check that the brake pads are properly

aligned with the rim and that they have

sucient thickness. This can be seen by

checking the transverse grooves in the

brake pad. When these grooves are worn

down, it’s time to change them.

• Additionally the front portion of the brake

pads should be the ﬁrst to touch the rim.

Once touching the rear portion of the pad

should be one millimeter away from the

rim. This v-shaped orientation helps pre-

vent the squealing of the brake pads.

• Both pads must simultaneously hit the rim

when the lever is pulled

• The brake lever must exhibit a reserve in its

travel. It should not pull up to the handle-

bars even during emergency braking.

Make sure that the pads touch the sidewall with their entire surface. Otherwise brake failure or wheel lock could lead to an accident. Also make sure that the surfaces of the brake do not touch the tires. Incorrectly set brake pads can cause tire rubthrough leading to a tire failure.

DANGER!

Page 35

Adjusting:

The V-brakes have to be synchronized by

adjusting the spring preload using the

respective adjustment screws (A).

• When the brake lever pulls all the way to

the handlebar, the brake cable must be

readjusted.

• Loosen the knurled lock ring (B) where the

brake cable enters the brake lever.

• Turn slotted barrel adjuster (C) a few

turns. The free travel of the brake lever is

reduced.

• Hold the barrel adjuster (C) while tightening

the lock ring (B) ﬁrmly against it so that the

barrel adjuster is locked in place.

• Check that the slot in the screw does not

face upwards or forwards, as this can allow

water and dirt to get in.

Adjusting brake blocks against the rim requires a good degree

of mechanical skill. Errors could

lead to brake failure and accidents. If in any doubt, leave the adjustment of brakes or changing brake blocks to your dealer. Poorly adjusted brakes can lead to serious accidents!

DANGER!

TIP!

Be sure to try the brakes in a trac free area to get a feel for the newly adjusted brakes!

Page 36

BRAKES

REAR COASTER BRAKE

The Birdy city is equipped with a coaster

brake. Coaster brakes allow you to apply

the brake to the rear wheel at any time by

pedaling backwards. Riese & Müller only use

coaster brakes whose braking performance

is not inﬂuenced by the current gear that one

is using.

• Check regularly the tight t of the bolts

which are ﬁxing brake reaction arm of the

coaster brake.

HYDRAULIC RIM BRAKES

For information regarding hydraulic rim

brakes please refer to the separate enclosed

instructions from Magura.

TIP!

The Birdy city is equipped with a chain tensioner and so you have to pedal back a little until the brake becomes active.

Page 37

Transporting the bike

The hydraulic brake system is completely

sealed so the bike can be transported lying

or upside down without brake ﬂuid leaking

out or air intruding.

Mechanical Disc Brakes

To adjust the break pods use the special

screw which is located near the stem. For

more information about settings, please re-

fer to the instructions supplied by the brake

manufacturer.

DISC BRAKES

The Birdy Disc models use a powerful disc

brake system that supplies enormous brak-

ing power while being easy to modulate.

Wear

These brakes compensate pad-wear auto-

matically making it unnecessary to readjust

your brake pads. As such you won’t be able

to recognize pad wear by a changing brake

lever feel.

Please make sure, that the thickness of

your brake pads is checked regularly by your

authorized dealer.

Disassembling the wheels

After the wheel is removed you should no

longer operate the brake lever. The brake

pads will press together making it dicult to

mount the wheel. After removing the wheel,

insert the transportation safety shims to

ensure a sucient distance between the

brake pads.

TIP!

It is useful to carry spare brake pads with you on longer tours!

Page 38

SHIFTING SYSTEM

THEORETICAL FOUNDATION

The shifting system on the bike is used to

adapt one’s own performance to the terrain

and the desired speed. The physical work is

not reduced by the shifting system rather

the force required per crank revolution is

changed.

PROPER SHIFTING

Gradients can be powered up using low

gears and moderate force but you’ll have

to pedal faster. Downhill you can travel a

greater distance per turn of the crank. The

speed will be correspondingly high. Like

a car you must maintain your optimum

“engine” speed to perform well. What’s key

to your performance is keeping the number

of crank revolutions per minute (cadence)

above 60. Racing cyclists typically ride with

a cadence of 90 – 110. This rate naturally falls

o a bit during hill climbs but you should still

maintain smooth pedaling. The incremental

shifting steps and ease of use of modern

shifting systems oer the best conditions for

an ecient ride that is easy on your knees.

DERAILLEUR SYSTEM

The derailleur on the bike is currently the

most eective systems in terms of power

transfer. In a clean and well-oiled system

about 97 – 98 percent of the energy placed in

the pedals is transferred to the rear wheel.

Despite this near optimal performance, many

cyclists fear a bike without a coaster brake.

This fear is unfounded. The operation of the

derailleur system leaves nothing to be de-

sired. With specially designed sprocket teeth,

ﬂexible chains and precisely spaced shifting

steps, the system shifts very easily. Re-

member to engage the shifter smoothly and

momentarily stop applying pressure to the

pedals until the chain is on the next sprocket.

Even though the special tooth forms of

today’s sprockets allows shifting under load,

it shortens the life of the chain and therefore

should be avoided.

Page 39

SHIFTERS

Two dierent kinds of shifters are used at the Birdy.

Twist grip

Rotating the right grip towards the driver

leads to an easier gear and rotating the

left grip away from the driver leads to an

easier gear. The grip indicates which gear

you are currently using. The shifter transmits

the commands to the transmission via the

Bowden cable.

Rapid Fire shifter

The thumb on the left side shifts to harder

gears and on the right side, easier gears. The

index ﬁnger on each sides shifts in the other

direction.

Practice shifting in a trac-free

area so that you can become familiar with the rotation of the shifters and pressing the levers. The practice area should be free of potential hazards.

DANGER!

Page 40

SHIFTING SYSTEM

CHECKING AND ADJUSTING SHIFTING SYSTEM

Your derailleur system was carefully set by

your dealer before handing it over to you.

During the ﬁrst few kilometers the shift-

ing cables may lengthen thereby leading

to imprecise shifting. The chain then only

reluctantly moves to the next sprocket or

chainring.

Tensioning the rear derailleur

• Tension the cable using one of the screws

through which the cable passes (barrel

adjuster).

• After each tensioning check to see wheth-

er the chain moves easily to the next

larger sprocket. To check this you must turn

the cranks by hand or ride the bike.

• If the chain moves easily to the next larger

sprocket, then you must also make sure

that it also changes easily to the next

smaller sprocket. For precise setting,

several attempts may be necessary.

Setting limit screws on the derailleur

Limit screws restrict the swing area of the

derailleur to prevent the chain from drop-

ping o the small sprocket or from jumping

into the spokes. These screws are adjusted

by your dealer and are not adjusted during

normal use. If the bike has fallen over, check

to see if the derailleur or the hanger is bent.

Check the swing area. This also applies if you

install other rear wheels.

• Shift the chain to the right. Shift the lever to

the smallest sprocket.

• Look from behind to see whether the idler

wheel of the derailleur is located exactly

over the smallest sprocket. If the idler pul-

ley is too far out, you’ll have to adjust the

corresponding limit screw.

• The limit screws are often marked „H“

as the stopping point for the smallest

sprocket and „L“ for the stopping point for

the largest sprocket.

• Shift to the largest rear sprocket. Be careful

that the derailleur doesn’t shift immediately

into the spokes. With the chain on the larg

TIP!

If you cannot properly adjust your shifting system, it could be due to worn or kinked shifting cables. See your local dealer for replacements.

Page 41

est sprocket, cautiously move the derail-

leur with your hand in the direction of the

spokes while rotating the rear wheel.

• If the idler pulley touches the spokes or the

chain begins to climb over the sprocket,

you should limit the pivot area. Turn the “L”

marked screw until the derailleur reliably

stops at the appropriate point.

• Now look at the position of the derailleur

cage relative to the cassette. There should

be space between the upper idler pulley

and the largest sprocket.

• The derailleur has a screw (A) to adjust this

distance on the front side of the dropout

• For the Birdy, screw this out as far as it will

go. The derailleur must be in its forward

most position.

THE CHAIN TENSIONER

The chain tensioner keeps the chain under

tension during the whole folding process.

The chain tensioner is mounted on the lower

derailleur jockey wheel, replacing its bolt

with a longer one. The bolt is secured on the

other side with a nut.

The adjustment of the front derailleur is very sensitive. Incorrect adjustment can cause the chain to come off possibly resulting in an accident. The adjustment of the front derailleur is a matter for the professional in the workshop.

DANGER!

TIP!

If you replace the rear derailleur, check that the new one has the same cage length as the old one. Otherwise problems can arise during folding, as it can’t be guaranteed that the chain will remain under tension.

ATTENTION!

The adjustment of the rear derail-

leur is dicult and should be left

to an experienced mechanic. Incorrect settings can cause serious mechanical damage. If you have problems with the system, please contact your dealer.

Page 42

SHIFTING SYSTEM

ADJUSTING THE FRONT DERAILLEUR

The adjustment of the front derailleur

requires a lot of experience. The setting in

which the chain does not rub the front de-

railleur is extremely small, the cable operat-

ing the front derailleur can stretch leading to

impaired shifting.

• Tighten the cable using the adjusting screw

just as you would on the rear derailleur

• For optimal performance, align the front de-

railleur exactly parallel to the chainrings with

between 1 and 3 mm of clearance between

the derailleur and the largest chainring

• To adjust the starting position of the front

derailleur, loosen the Allen screw on the

front side 2 to 4 times.

• The cable stops of the front derailleur are set

up as described in the section rear derailleur

adjustment.

How to adjust the chain tensioner

• Shift to the smallest sprocket

• The distance between chain and tensioner

should be 1 – 2 mm.

• To adjust the chain tensioner, rst loosen

the nut at the lower derailleur jockey

wheel. Then loosen the bolt.

• Adjust the chain tensioner.

• It is important that rst the bolt is tight,

then the nut is screwed tightly against it.

• Shift to the biggest sprocket. The chain ten-

sioner must not touch the tire or the rim.

The Birdy city chain tensioner

The chain tensioner Shimano Alﬁne with

additional chain tensioner is used for this

model. Adjustment is as describe above.

TIP!

Adjust a bigger distance between chain and tensioner if your Birdy is equipped with Big Apple tires. This prevents touching between tensioner and tires while shifting into the smallest gear.

Page 43

HUB GEARS

One advantage of an internally geared hub

(IGH) is the encapsulated construction. The

technical mechanisms are almost completely

enclosed inside the hub. This prevents con-

tamination from dirt and grime. The chain

on an IGH system lasts longer than on an

equivalent derailleur system. A disadvantage

is the slightly higher power losses within the

hub. IGH are sometimes used in combination

with a derailleur, freewheel and rim, roller, or

integrated coaster brake.

How they work and how to use them.

It uses a twist grip shifter to select the de-

sired gears. The Shimano IGH can be shifted

under load while the Rohlo system requires

a momentary pause in the application of

pedal power. There are several methods

used to select gears for IGH and each hub is

dierent. For questions, see the instruction

manual of the manufacturer or your dealer.

Practice shifting in a trac free

area. Practice also using the

brakes. In road trac you may

be distracted from shifting and braking by potential hazards.

DANGER!

Page 44

SHIMANO 8SPEED HUB

• Shift into fourth gear

• Now the two marks on the hub must be

brought into alignment. This is done using

the adjustment screw that passes through

the cable and into the shifter. By tightening

the screw, the mark moves forward and

loosening it moves the mark rearward.

Adjustment

The various gears are selected using the

shifter. The exact method varies from hub

to hub. Please contact your local dealer if

you have questions.

ROHLOFF HUB GEAR

• Please follow instructions in the manual

supplied separately from Rohlo.

3X8 DUAL DRIVE HUB GEAR

• Shift the hub gear into rst gear using the

shifter on the left side.

• With the help of the plastic box, slightly

tension the shift cable.

Page 45

CHAIN

CHAIN CARE

The old saying is still true: “Whoever oils well,

rides well”. The amount of lubrication is not

as important as the distribution and regular-

ity of application.

Clean your chain from time to time with a dry

cloth the removed built up dirt and oil.

Lubricate the most clean chain possible using

chain oil, grease or wax. Wax is a very

clean lubricant which is recommended for

Riese & Müller bikes.

• Turning the crank and drizzle or spray

the rollers of the chain. Rotate the chain

several times. Let the bike stand for several

minutes to allow the lubricant to penetrate

the chain.

• Finish up by wiping excess lubricant o

with a cloth to prevent it from slinging o

while riding.

CHAIN WEAR

Chains are one of the consumable parts on a

bicycle but the lifespan of the chain is deter-

mined by how the rider maintains it. Be sure

the chain is lubricated regularly, especially

after riding in the rain. Chains of derailleurs

often last from 1500 – 3000 km before need-

ing replacement. Greatly elongated chains

impair shifting and wear down sprockets

and chainrings more quickly. Replacing these

items cost much more than a chain so we

recommend changing the chain regularly.

The replacement of a chain is best left to

your dealer who has special tools to accu-

rately measure your chain and to cut your

chain to the appropriate length. Many mod-

ern chains have no chain lock and a special

tool is required to link up the two halves of

the chain. Your dealer has all of the tools that

match your chain.

TIP!

For the protection of the environment use only biodegradable lubricants because a small amount of lubricant always ends up on the ground, especially during rain.

A poorly riveted chain can break and lead to a fall. It’s best to let your dealer replace the chain.

Be sure to use the correct chain length when replacing the chain.

DANGER!

Page 46

WHEELS AND TIRES

The wheels on the bike keep you in contact

with the road. They experience heavy loads

during riding over irregular surfaces and

when carrying cargo. Although the wheels

are carefully manufactured and trued, they

settle in after the ﬁrst few kilometers. After

a short break-in period from 200 to 400 kilo-

meters, your dealer should true the wheels

again. Regularly check the wheels but ad-

ditional tensioning is rarely necessary.

CONSTRUCTION OF A WHEEL

The wheel consists of a hub, rim and spokes.

The tire is mounted to the rim in which

the tube is inserted. Rim tape is applied to

protect the sensitive tube from the often

sharp-edged rim.

TIRES AND AIR PRESSURE

The tire provides grip and traction on the

road which is required during braking, ac-

celerating, and cornering. Furthermore, it

ensures smooth running.

Both street tires (speed, road) and knobbies

(MTB) for rough tracks are available. Tires

can only work well if it ﬁlled to the correct

air pressure. The correct inﬂation pressure

also prevents failures such as the crushing of

the tube especially when traveling over an

edge, the so called “snake bite”. Snake bites

are caused when going over an edge such

as a curb with a tire pressure that is too low.

The manufacturer’s suggested pressure is

indicated on the sidewall of the tire in bar

and PSI.

PSI BAR

45 3,0

50 3,5

65 4,5

85 6,0

95 6,5

120 8,0

MTB, Big Apple

Road, Marathon Racer

Kojak

Always ride with the prescribed air pressure and check it regularly.

Never pump the tires over the maximum recommended pressure rating! The tire can spring from the rim or burst leading to an accident!

DANGER!

TIP!

Always ride with the prescribed air pressure and check it regularly.

Because Riese & Müller bikes are

full suspension you can always

inate the tires to the maximum

recommended pressure. This provides you the best and safest riding position and low rolling resistance which saves energy. Comfort is maintained because of the full suspension system.

Page 47

TUBE AND VALVE

The tire and rim alone are not airtight.

To maintain the pressure on the interior,

the tube is inserted into the tire. It is ﬁlled

through a valve. Riese & Müller bikes use

presta valves exclusively. Before inﬂation,

the small knurled nut is unscrewed and

then pressed back down into the valve. It is

normal for a little air to escape during this

process.

If the presta valve is not suciently tight-

ened, this leads to the gradual loss of air.

Check the tightness of the of the valve body

in the elongated shaft. Make sure the valve

diameter matches the hole in the rim and

that the valve stands up straight.

Hand-pumps are often not suitable for

achieving high pressure. Track pumps with a

gauge are better, as you can check the pres-

sure as you pump.

CHECKING THE TIRES

Regularly check the tires. If the tread is worn

or the edges are brittle, you should replace

them. The inside of the tire may be damaged

if is contaminated by moisture or dirt. Defec-

tive rim tape must be replaced immediately.

Damage to the tires can lead to their sudden

bursting which could be dangerous.

RIM RUNOUT AND SPOKE TENSION

The spokes connect the rim with the hub in

the center of the wheel. The uniform spoke

tension is responsible for maintaining the

concentricity of the wheel. When a spoke

breaks when running over a severe bump,

the tension of the spokes is no longer in

equilibrium. Even before the rider notices the

malfunction it is aecting your bike. The side

walls of the rims no longer run parallel to

the braking surface so braking eectiveness

cannot be ensured.

TIP!

Truing wheels is a dicult business, which should denitely be

left to your dealer!

Page 48

WHEELS AND TIRES

Be sure to check the concentricity (runout)

from time to time. Lift the wheel from the

ground and spin it with your hand. Watch the

gap between the rim and brake pad. If this

gap changes by more than one millimeter it

needs to be trued by a professional.

WHEEL ATTACHMENT

The wheels are attached to the frame via ei-

ther an axle with a hex nut or a quick release

clamped in the dropouts.

• To remove the front wheel you have to

open the quick-release or loosen the axle

nuts for some turns.

Axle nuts

Watch the necessary tightening torque at

page 62.

Quick-release

Even though quick releases are very con-

venient, many accidents occur because of

their misuse. The correct use is described at

page 22.

Do not ride with wheels that are out of true. The brake pad can miss the rim sidewall and actually strike the spokes leading to an accident!

DANGER!

Never ride a bike without rst

checking that the wheels are securely attached to the frame with a quick release or bolt. If not securely attached, the wheel could fall out during the ride and lead to a severe injury!

DANGER!

TIP!

The quick-release lever should be located at the right side to reduce the folding dimensions.

TIP!

Lock your quick-release wheels and the frame to a solid object if you leave your bike unattended.

Page 49

REPAIRING A PUNCTURE

A ﬂat tire can happen to any cyclist. A ﬂat tire

doesn’t have to mean the end of the tour as

long as the necessary tools and spare tube/

patch kit are available.

You will need:

• Air pump

• Repair kit or spare tube

• Tire lever

• For bikes with an axle nut: 15mm wrench

• For bikes with a coaster brake or encapsu-

lated drive: 5 mm Allen wrench and 10 mm

spanner

• Latex gloves to keep chain grease o of

hands

PREPARING TO REMOVE THE WHEEL

Each model has certain things that must be

done before the wheel can be removed.

These are described below.

V-brakes

The brake cable must ﬁrst be unhooked.

Grasp it with one hand, moving the cable

hanger (A) and the guide tube (B) with the

other hand. If the brake cable is set too tight,

you can reduce the tension by turning the

barrel adjuster on the brake lever.

• For the front brake or with Big Apple tires

we recommend opening the cable ﬁxing

bolt at the brake arm.

Rohlo-Gear

On the Birdy Rohlo, you must also dismount

the gear box. Please see the Rohlo manual.

Derailleur gear

Before removing the rear wheel of derail-

leur systems, be sure to shift to the smallest

sprocket. Thus the derailleur is all the way to

the outside and does not hinder the removal.

Page 50

WHEELS AND TIRES

Dual Drive gear on Birdy touring

• Shift to the lowest hub gear (left shifter to

gear 1) and the highest derailleur gear (right

shifter to gear 8). The gear-change mecha-

nism (Clickbox) must be uncoupled from the

hub gear. Press on the latch C and push out

the thread rod.

• Loosen both axle nuts and remove the rear

wheel.

Internally geared hub with coaster brake

The brake arm (A) which attaches to the

frame and supports the hub while under

brake torque. Loosen the screw (B).

Rear wheels with quick-release

• Open the quick-release as described at

page 18.

• To make removal of the rear wheel easier,

you should pull the derailleur back a little

by hand.

• Lift the bike a little and give the wheel a

slap – it should fall out and down.

TIP!

If you have a puncture on the

road, you can attempt to x it

without removing the wheel, by only removing part of the inner tube. Leave the valve in the rim,

and rst try to nd the hole where

air is escaping, by pumping more air into the tube. A bucket of water or a puddle may be of some help. Once you’ve found the hole, check at that point on the tire and examine it closely for the source

of the puncture. Remove this if

necessary.

Page 51

REMOVING TIRES

• Unscrew the valve cover and mounting

nuts and let all of the air out.

• Press the tire from the sidewall towards

the center of the rim. Do this over the

entire circumference to make removing the

tire easier.

• Insert the brake levers on the right and left

side of the valve at the lower edge of the

tire and pry the rim bead over the sidewall.

Keep the lever in this position.

• Now you can remove the tube. Make sure

the valve doesn’t get caught in the rim and

that the tube isn’t damaged.

Check tire and apply patch

• Patch hole according to the instructions

from the patch manufacturer.

• If you have removed the tire, you should

also check the rim tape. It should sit evenly

and must not be cracked or damaged and

should cover all spoke holes. If you have

questions about your rim tape, please ask

your dealer.

MOUNTING TIRE

• Make sure when installing the tire that no

foreign matter such as dirt or sand gets

inside as this could damage the tube.

• Place the rim with a horn in the tire. Press

the tire sidewall completely over the rim.

This should be possible with every tire

without using a tool. Insert the valve in

the valve hole in the rim.

• Inate the tube lightly so that it assumes a

round shape. Insert it completely in the tire

being careful not to crease it.

• Begin the installation on the side opposite

of the valve. Press the tire on the rim mak-

ing sure not to pinch the tube between the

rim and the tire. Push the tube repeatedly

into the interior of the tire.

• Work both sides evenly around the circum-

ference of the wheel. Towards the end you

will need to press the tire down ﬁrmly. Pull

the already mounted portion deep into the

rim as this facilitates mounting the last few

centimeters.

Page 52

WHEELS AND TIRES

• Check again to make sure the tube is well

seated and press the tire with your palm

over the rim bead. If this fails, you must use

tire levers. Make sure that the dull side is

facing the tube so as not to damage it.

• Press the valve into the interior of the tire

so that the tube is not pinched between

the tire and rim.

• Is the valve facing straight up? If it is not

remove one side of the tire and readjust

the tube. If you want to make sure that the

tube is not crushed under the edge, you

should halfway inﬂate the tire and roll it

back and forth around the circumference of

the wheel.

• Pump up the tire to the desired pressure.

The maximum pressure is indicated on the

sidewall of the tire.

• Check the t of the tire specically the wire

(or Kevlar) bead against the sidewall of the

rim. The important thing is that the whole

tire has a uniform distance from the rim.

MOUNTING THE WHEELS

Mounting the wheels follows the reverse

procedure to their removal.

Mounting the gear arm

• For a Birdy with Shimano gear hubs the

gear arm must be assembled before

mounting the rear wheel. The lock ring

must be turned clockwise. Note the posi-

tion of the colored dots and that gear is

shifted to gear 1.

TIP!

Depending on the Birdy type it is more

dicult to remove and mount the

rear wheel as compared to a standard bicycle. We recommend you practice

this work before the rst ride. Then it

will be easier on the road.

Page 53

Placing the chain on sprocket and inserting

rear wheel

• Push the rear derailleur backwards and put

the chain on the smallest sprocket

• Insert the rear wheel into the rear drop outs.

Mounting brake arm

• Mount the coaster brake arm and tighten

the bolt with a torque of 6 Nm.

Tightening wheel

• Put all washers and tabbed xing washers

in correct position onto the axle.

• Tighten axle nuts or quick-release (for

torque settings see page 62).

Checking the brake

• Re-hook the brake cable in position or

tighten it again.

• Check if the adjustment of the brake pads is

still correct.

• Check that after the repair the braking

surfaces are still free from grease or other

lubricants.

Rohlo Hub

• Mount the shifter cables (see Rohlo

manual).

Birdy touring with Dual Drive Hub

• Insert the thread rod into the plastic hous-

ing when the axle nuts are tightened. The

shifter cable should be slightly tight in ﬁrst

gear.

ATTENTION!

Take care of correct position of all washers. Incorrect positioning will lead to malfunction.

Incorrect assembly can lead to poor functioning or failure of the brakes. Proceed in strict accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. You absolutely

must test your brakes! Errors in

mounting wheels can lead to loss of control, and could lead to serious accidents. Incorrect positioning will lead to malfunction.

DANGER!

• Tightening torque of the axle nuts: 30Nm.

• Tighten axle nuts or quick-release (for

torque settings see page 62).

Page 54

The fork, stem, handlebars and front wheel

are able to rotate because of the headset

bearings. The headset must always move

easily. Large bumps or other changes can

cause the headset to loosen and develop

play.

CORRECTING PLAY IN BEARINGS

• Check the clearance by curling your nger

around the upper steering bearing shell.

• With the other hand, squeeze the front

brake and rock the bike back and forth.

• If the bearing has play in it the upper shell

will move relative to the lower shell and

you’ll detect this movement with your

ﬁnger.

FUNCTION OF THE HEADSET

• To ensure the smooth running of the

headset, grab the frame with one hand

and raise the front wheel o of the

ground. Rotate the handlebar through

its full range of motion. It should move

smoothly and without sticking through its

entire range of motion. If the handlebar is

released from your hand, it should auto-

matically return to the central position.

Riding the bike when there is

play in the headset bearings exposes the bearing and fork to extremely high loads which can lead to serious damage including fork breakage!

DANGER!

ATTENTION!

Setting the headset requires certain expertise. Therefore it is best to leave this work to your dealer.

Page 55

• The play can now be adjusted out using

the recessed bolt B. Tighten this up gently

‘by feel’.

• Align the stem again so that the handle-

bars are straight.

• Re-tighten the side clamp bolts A. Apply a

torque of 5 Nm.

• Carry out the test for play as described

above. Also, make sure that the bearing

isn’t adjusted too tight.

ADJUSTMENT

The headset bearings consist of an inverted

Aheadset arrangement. The ‘steerer tube’

goes from the stem hinge downwards. At

its lower end the fork pushes onto it, and is

ﬁxed by two clamp screws A (similar to the

way an Aheadset stem is ﬁxed). In addition,

the fork is held in place from below with a

ﬁxing cap secured by bolt B.

• To adjust the headset, the two clamping

screws A must ﬁrst be loosened.

Check that the stem is completely secure against turning after you’ve adjusted the headset bearings! A loose stem could lead to a crash!

DANGER!

ATTENTION!

Do not completely tighten up this bolt B, or you will be ‘dialing in’ play.

Page 56

REAR SUSPENSION BEARINGS

The Birdy’s rear swingarm is supported on

a very precise and maintenance-free INA

sealed cartridge needle bearing, which

requires neither adjustment nor mainten-

ance. However, the position of the pivot

axle and its corresponding clamp bolts

should be checked regularly. Should the

axle have moved over to left or right, so

that it is no longer completely locked into

the swingarm on both sides, please con-

sult your dealer. The clamp bolts must be

tightened to 5 Nm torque.

SUSPENSION PIVOT BEARINGS

FRONT SUSPENSION BEARINGS

The front wheel swingarm on the Birdy is

supported by maintenance-free IGUS ‘Iglidur’

bearings. The pivot bolts can be adjusted

from the outside with an 8mm hex key. The

inner part of the bolt is secured to the fork

against rotation and cannot be moved. If the

front suspension develops play and starts

to wobble or oscillate as you ride, the outer

pivot bolt can be tightened somewhat.

If the front suspension is hard to fold, the

outer pivot bolt can be slightly loosened.

If the bearing is completely disassembled,

please secure the thread of the pivot bolt

with thread-lock adhesive.

COMPONENT

LENGHT

CABLE HOUSING

Front brake Birdy Race* 360 + 780 mm

Rear brake Birdy Race* 360 + 1200 mm

Shifter cable front derailleur Birdy Race*

360 + 920 mm

Shifter cable rear derailleur Birdy Race*

360 + 920 + 550 mm

Front brake 1300 mm

Rear brake 1300 mm

COMPONENT

LENGHT

CABLE HOUSING

Shifter cable rear derailleur

1250 + 550 mm

Shifter cable Birdy city 1530 mm

Shifter cable hub gear Birdy touring 1530 mm

Shifter cable hub gear Birdy rohlo 1530 mm

CABLE LENGTH

The table helps you to ﬁnd the right length when replacing shifter and brake cables.

* Values are only valid for ﬁx stem for adjustable stems an additional 150 mm must be added.

Page 57

LIGHTING SYSTEM

RETROFITTING LIGHTING SYSTEM

If you would like to upgrade to a newer light-

ing system, please contact your dealer.

Operating lighting system

• Some lights are equipped with a photocell

which turns the lights on automatically at

dusk (switch position “S”).

• You can also operate the lighting manually

(switch position “on” and “o”).

• Some lights with only an “on” and “o”

switch.

• Before each ride ensure your lighting

system is working correctly. Also check for

loose wires or connections.

LOCATING DEFECTS

• Visually inspect the entire length of the

wire for damage. Verify all of the contact

points are intact. Often connections are

corroded by salt water or rain. Unplug the

power cord and plug it back together.

• Verify the correct polarity. The light wire is

the ground wire.

HEADLIGHT ADJUSTMENT

The center of the front light’s beam should

hit the road at a maximum of 10 meters in

front of the bike.

FUNCTION OF THE LIGHTING SYSTEM

To safely use roadways a functioning light-

ing system is mandatory (see page 7). You

should know how the system operates so

that you can resolve and any problems that

might arise. Diculties sometimes arise if

you ride in the rain a lot or in the winter. The

dynamo generates the current necessary to

power the lights. There is a cable connecting

the dynamo to the front light. In the front

there is a light switch for controlling lighting.

From the front light there is a cable going to

the tail light.

HUB DYNAMO

Many Birdys are ﬁtted with a hub dynamo

that works regardless of weather conditions.

Another advantage of hub dynamos is that

they are more ecient than side runner

dynamos. This means the power required to

generate electricity is lower.

TIP!