350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 18988099
Universal Triangulated 4-Link – Polished Stainless Steel
Components:
4 90001585 Threaded rod end Stainless (with rubber bushings pressed in)
2 90000951 Upper bar Stainless – TW 15” (with rubber bushings pressed in)
2 90000991 Lower bar Stainless – TW 26.5” (with rubber bushings pressed in)
8 90001942 Rubber bushing
2 90000159 Axle bracket – Lower bars
1 90000163 Frame bracket – Driver side (Lower bars)
1 90000164 Frame bracket – Passenger side (Lower bars)
2 90000155 Axle tabs – Small (Upper bars
2 90000144 Axle tabs – Large (Upper bars
1 90000142 Frame bracket – Driver side (Upper bars)
1 90000143 Frame bracket – Passenger side (Upper bars)
Hardware Kit:
8 99621003 5/8” x 2 3/4” SAE bolt (gr. 8) 4-Link bars
8 99632002 5/8” SAE Nylok jam nut 4-Link bars
4 99752003 3/4” SAE jam nut - Stainless Threaded rod end
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
TRIANGULATED 4 LINK INSTALLATION
1. If you are working on a finished vehicle with a leafspring suspension, consider leaving the leafs in
until the four link is installed. This will avoid chasing the rearend around the shop during installation
and will preset the location of the rearend. Be sure to double check that the rearend is centered in
the car both side to side and front to back.
2. If you are starting from scratch, set the vehicle up at a comfortable working height and place the
rearend under the car at ride height. Keep in mind that with an air ride system, you will be able to
drop the car approx. 4” from this height by deflating the system.
3. Center the rearend side to side in relation to the frame. This is usually done by measuring from the
frame to the wheel mounting or bearing flange of the rearend and making these measurements
equal.
4. Center the rearend in the wheel openings. The rough position should be centered in the wheel
openings, but the final adjustment should make sure that the rearend is square to the frame and that
the distance between the axle centerlines [front to rear] are equal on each side of the car.
5. The pinion angle should be roughly set at level with the frame. This will allow you enough
adjustment to fine tune the pinion angle when the installation is complete.
6. Steps 3,4, and 5 may have to be double checked and repeated to ensure the rearend is correctly
placed under the car. When you are satisfied with the placement, make sure the rearend won’t move
during installation. [We tack ours to the jackstands.]
6. When the rearend is correctly placed, the lower bracket /bar assembly can be placed. The 4 link kit
can be installed with the lower bars under the frame or outside the frame. To determine the proper
location, assemble the lower axle bracket, lower bar and the lower frame bracket together and place
the lower axle bracket against the axle tube. Assemble the bars with no more than 1/2” of thread
showing on the shaft. This will allow for final adjustment. With the lower bar level with the car,
determine the best location for the lower frame bracket. Make that decision now because that will
determine the side to side location of the lower axle brackets. To place the lower bars under the
frame, the lower frame bracket must be trimmed. The “wings” of these brackets will be cut off and the
bracket can be placed under the frame. [Be sure to check ground clearance.]
7. When the lower frame bracket location has been determined, tack them into place. [Don’t weld
fully yet]
8. Place the lower axle brackets onto the axle tube at the same distance apart as the lower frame
brackets. The back of these brackets should be plumb, [Perpendicular to the ground] and must be
level with each other! One way to accomplish this is to tack one bracket and then use a piece of
angle that is clamped across the back of the bracket to check the angle of the other. This will ensure
that the lower 4 link mounting points are even from front to back.
9. Assemble the upper 4 link bar into its brackets and tabs. Assemble the bars with no more than 1/2”
of thread showing. This will allow for final adjustment. Notice that on the tabs that weld to the
rearend, two of the tabs are larger. This is to compensate for the angle of the rearend housing where
the tabs will be welded. The larger tabs will go to the outside of the bars. They may have to be
trimmed to fit.
10. Place the upper bar assembly onto the rearend and against the frame. The rearend tabs will go in
the area of the centersection and the frame brackets will go against the frame at an angle. The upper
bars should be as close to level as possible. [Level with the car] The frame may have to be boxed in
the area where the upper frame brackets will go.
There are 3 main goals here:
1. Upper bars level with each other.
2. Upper bars at the same side to side distance on the axle housing. [Note that on most 9”
Ford rearends, the centersection is offset, so the axle tabs will appear to be located in different
locations on the rearend.]
3. Upper bars at the same front to back distance on the frame.
It may take several adjustments to satisfy all of these measurements, but they must be satisfied!
When you are satisfied that the bars are located properly, tack them in place.
11. With a floorjack, raise and lower the rearend through its travel to check for interference or binding
of the rod ends. If the rearend moves freely, final welding may now be done. Note that the movement
may be somewhat stiff due to the poly bushings
Now you can proceed with the rest of the air ride system!
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