350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 13017199
68-70 Chrysler “B” Body Rear AirBar
Components:
1 90000601 Upper bar bridge
1 90000600 Upper Shockwave bridge
2 90000599 Lower bar frame mounts
2 90000615 Lower axle mounts
1 90000535 Driver side lower mount
1 90000536 Passenger side lower mount
2 90001002 Upper bars – TW 8.00” (10” C-C length)
2 90001025 Lower bars – WW 21.75”
2 99250001 ¼”-28 straight grease fitting
2 90001589 Threaded Kevlar lined Heim end
2 99752004 ¾”-16 jam nut – for rod end
4 90000552 Aluminum spacer for Heim end
4 90001942 Rubber bushings pressed into bars
4 90001085 Poly bushing for lower bar
2 90000198 Lower bar bushing sleeve
2 90000524 Inner axle tab (Larger)
2 90000155 Outer axle tab
2 90000616 Inner support plates
2 90001617 5/8” shock studs w/ hardware
4 90002067 Aluminum spacer for stud
4 99566001 S-10 U-bolts w/ hardware - Lower axle bracket to axle
2 70010694 Jig brackets for upper bar installation
Hardware: (Part # 99010021)
6 5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” Gr.5 bolt Upper & lower bars
2 5/8”-11 x 4” Gr.5 bolt Lower bar frame mount
8 5/8”-11 Nylok jam nut Upper & lower bars
4 5/8”-11 x 1 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt Lower Shockwave mount to axle bracket
4 5/8”-11 Nylok nut Lower Shockwave mount to axle bracket
2 1/2”-13 x 2 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt Shockwave to lower mount
2 1/2”-13 Nylok jam nut Shockwave to lower mount
8 3/8”-16 x 1 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt Lower bar frame mount
8 3/8”-16 Nylok nut Lower bar frame mount
30 3/8”-16 x 1” thread forming bolt Upper bridges
48 3/8” SAE flat washer Lower bar frame mount & upper bridges
2 3/8”-16 Nylok nuts Inner support plate
2 1/2"-13 x 1 ¼” Gr.5 bolt Shockwave bridge to body
2 1/2"-13 Nylok nut Shockwave bridge to body
2 1/2" SAE flat washer Shockwave bridge to body
2 3/8”-16 x ¾” Gr. 5 bolt Upper bar installation jig
2 3/8”-16 nut Upper bar installation jig
1. Raise the vehicle to a safe and comfortable working height. Use jack stands to support the vehicle
with the suspension hanging freely.
2. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs, front leaf spring mounts, shocks and tail pipes.
Refer to the factory service manual for proper disassemble procedures.
3. Slide the upper bar bridge between
the frame rails. Using the bridge as a
template, mark all the holes in the
frame and drill with a 5/16” bit. Then
secure the bridge using the 3/8” x 1”
thread forming bolts and flat washers.
4. The front of the bridge will require a
3/8” hole to secure it to the body. The
inner support plate will drop into these
holes from the inside of the car. Two
3/8” nylocs will secure the plate.
5. The upper Shockwave bridge will
slide between the frame rails directly
behind the factory shock cross
member. The bridge will be positioned
by bolting the tabs to the factory shock
hole. Fasten the bridge to the factory
shock mount using 1/2" x 1 ½” bolt, flat
washer and Nyloc nuts. Using the
bridge as a template drill the holes in
the frame with a 5/16” bit. 3/8” x 1”
thread forming bolts and flat washers
will hold the bridge in place.
6. Screw one of the Shockwave studs
into the upper bridge.
7. Bolt the lower axle bracket to the
leaf spring pad using the 9/16” U-bolts
and hardware supplied. Bolt the lower
Shockwave mount to the axle bracket
using the 5/8” x 1 ¼” bolts and Nylok
nut.
8. Bolt the new lower bar frame mount
to the body using 3/8” x 1 ¼” bolts,
Nyloc nuts and flat washers.
9. Attach the larger end of the lower
bar to the frame mount using a 5/8” x
4” bolt and Nyloc jam nut. The smaller
end will attach to the axle mount using
a 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt and Nyloc jam nut.
Note: Do not tighten these nuts yet.
They must be tightened at ride height.
10. Raise the axle to ride height. This
can be determined by measuring 10”
from the top of the axle up to the body,
just outside the rail.
11. Then center the axle left to right
between the frame rails.
12. The pinion angle must also be set
at this time. This is explained on the
next page.
13. One trick to help maintain the
settings is to tack weld a 10” spacer
between the axle and body. This
spacer is temporary and must be
removed after installation is complete.
14. How do you set the
pinion angle? On a singlepiece shaft you want to set it
up where a line drawn
through the center of the
engine crankshaft or output
shaft of the transmission and
a line drawn through the
center of the pinion are
parallel to each other but not
the same line.
A simple way to do this is
to place a digital angle finder
or dial level on the front face
of the lower engine pulley or
harmonic balancer. This will
give you a reading that is 90
degrees to the crank or
output shaft unless you have
real problems with your
balancer. At the other end,
you can place the same level
or angle finder against the
front face of the pinion yoke
that is also at 90 degrees to
the centerline. If you rotate
the yoke up or down so both
angles match, you have
perfect alignment.
Road testing will tell you if
you have it right. If you
accelerate and you get or
increase a vibration, then the
pinion yoke is too HIGH.
Rotate it downward in small
increments of a degree or
two until the problem goes
away. If you get or increase
a vibration when
decelerating, then the pinion
yoke is too LOW. Rotate it
upward to correct it.
15. Check the length of the upper bar;
it should be 10" C-C. Bolt the axle tabs
to the upper bar with the larger tab to
the inside. Then place the other end
into the bridge. Both ends use a 5/8” x
2 3/4" and should not be fully tightened
yet.
16. Tack-weld the tabs to the axle then
recheck alignment. After removing the
upper bars the tabs can be welded
solid. To avoid warping the axle, weld
1” at a time and skip around.
17. Apply thread sealant to the air
fitting and screw it into the top of the
Shockwave.
18. Fasten the Shockwave to the
lower mount using the ½” x 2 ¼” bolt
and Nylok nut.
19. The 10” spacer can now be
removed.
20. With the axle still at ride height all
of the bolts can be tightened.
21. The stock exhaust tail pipe will not
work. A turndown may be installed or
a custom pipe may be fabricated.
22. Double-check
Shockwave/CoilOver clearance
through full suspension travel.
Failure to do so will cause failure
and is not a warrantable situation.
.
Upper Bar Installation Jig
Item #
Description
• This jig has been supplied to aid in the installation of the upper 4 link bar. It can be
temporarily used to properly align, locate and weld the tabs onto the axle. It will also ensure
that the mounting bolts are parallel to the ground.
• Follow the diagram below to set the jig to the same length as the upper bar, use the 3/8” x 3/4”
bolt and nuts to set the length.
• Position the axle at ride height. Center the axle left to right between the quarter panels. Set
pinion angle.
• Bolt one end of the jig to the cradle using a 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt.
• Using another 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt, fasten the axle tabs to the other end. The tabs must be bolted
to the outside of the jig.
• Swing the bar down letting the tabs rest onto the axle. Trim the brackets as necessary to
minimize the gap to be welded.
• Check pinion angle, ride height and axle center. Tack-weld the tabs in place.
• Remove jig and install upper bar.
• Repeat this process for the other side.
• Recheck pinion angle, ride height and axle center. (Sound familiar?)
• After the tabs have been tack welded on both sides, remove the upper bars to avoid melting
the rubber bushings. Let the axle drop down for better access to the tabs. Lay 1” welds on the
inside and outside of the tabs. Skip around from one side to the other to avoid overheating
the tube.
1. Upper bar
2. 3/4”-16 jam nut
3. Heim end
4. Alignment jig
5. Aluminum spacer
6. 5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” bolt
7. 3/8”-16 nut
8. 3/8”-16 x 3/4" bolt
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Should I weld my AirBar 4 link assembly in?
Since we get this question quite often, it deserves a proper explanation.
The AirBar has been designed for bolt-in installation. We have paid special attention to
interfacing with key structural areas of each vehicle, fastening bracketry in at least two
planes to properly distribute load paths, and to using appropriate fasteners that roll,
rather than cut, threads into the vehicle structure.
Having said that, you could potentially encounter a vehicle that has rust or collision
damage in these areas. Or maybe you intend to consistently place the vehicle in
severe racing applications with sticky racing slicks and high speed corners. In these
cases it is perfectly acceptable to weld the AirBar components into your vehicle. Even
in these severe cases we recommend that you install the entire AirBar assembly first
[including the fasteners], and then use short 1” long tack welds to secure your
installation. Remember that the vehicle structure metal is typically much thinner [.060”.120” ] than the .188” thick AirBar brackets. If you burn through the vehicle sheet metal
structure you may end up with an installation that is weaker than before you tried to
weld it.
The other reason to weld in your AirBar assembly is…you simply want to. You’re a
welding kind of guy…that’s the way you’ve always done it…you have the skills and
equipment to do it. In that case…weld away with our blessing!
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