2 90002222 Spring retainer kit (included upper and lower spring retainer, screw & clip)
2 90001902 Aluminum cap for Delrin ball
2 90001903 Delrin ball upper half
2 90001904 Delrin ball lower half
4 70010828 Delrin Spring Washer
2 90002356 Upper Shockwave mount
2 90000506 Aluminum Upper plate
Hardware:
2 99562003 9/16” SAE Nylok jam nut Stud top hardware
6 99311012 5/16” x 1” USS Flange bolts Upper mount to strut tower
1. Impact Forged, Monotube shock
2. Rebound adjustment knob (SA Only)
3. Upper coil spring retainer
4. Lower coil spring retainer
5. High tensile coil spring
6. Set screw
7. Delrin Spring Washer
1. Stud top base
2. Lower Delrin ball half
3. Upper Delrin ball half
4. Aluminum cap
5. 9/16” Nylok jam nut
6. Threaded stud
7. Adjustment knob (SA Only)
8. Screw
9. Snap ring
1. Place the upper plate on top of the
strut tower. While holding the upper
Shockwave mount up to the bottom of
the strut tower, fasten the assembly
with three 5/16” x 1” flange bolts.
2. Place the stud up through the upper
mount. (See diagram)
3. Attach the bottom of the shock to
the upper arm w/ the hardware
supplied w/ the upper arm.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 12102899
67-70 Mustang Lower StrongArms
Components:
1 90000110 Driver side lower arm
1 90000111 Passengers side lower arm
2 90000895 Lower ball joint
4 90000112 Eccentric eliminator
2 90000108 Inner bushing sleeve
4 90001086 Poly bushing half
2 90001045 Control arm pivot bearing
2 90000734 Bearing housing
2 90000109 Bearing retaining plate
2 90000733 Aluminum bearing spacer
2 90000732 Bearing stud (Set to 2- 15/16”)
2 99250001 1/4-28 grease fitting – Use Lithium grease on frame bushings
Hardware:
2 99501025 ½”-13 x 4 ½” Gr.5 bolt Lower arm to frame
2 99502001 ½”-13 Nylok nut Lower arm to frame
6 99371019 3/8”-16 x 1 ½ SHCS Bearing housing
6 99373005 3/8” lock washer Bearing housing
2 99752004 ¾”-16 Jam nut Stud to arm
2 99752001 ¾”-16 Lock nut Stud to bearing
2 99753002 ¾” x 2” flat washer Stud to bearing
Installation Instructions
1. Raise and support vehicle at a safe, comfortable working height. Let the front suspension hang
freely.
2. Remove the coil spring, shock absorber, upper shock bracket, strut rod, sway bar, upper and
lower control arms. Refer to factory service manual for proper disassembly procedure.
3. Be sure to remove the outer
bushing sleeve from the strut rod
frame mount.
4. Remove any excess undercoating
or rust.
5. Using the bushing retainer as a
template, mark the holes to drill with a
center punch.
6. Remove the retainer and drill the
holes with a 3/8” bit.
7. Place the bearing inside the bearing
housing, then clamp it to the frame
with the bearing retainer and the 3/8” x
1 ½” SHCS and lock washers.
Front
8. The bearing stud should already be
threaded into the lower arm, factory set
at 2-15/16” (measuring from the end of
the arm to the bearing).
9. Slide the stud through the bearing,
then slide the aluminum spacer over
the stud with the larger end toward the
front of the car. Secure the assembly
with a ¾” Nylok Nut and flat washer.
Note: The caster setting should set at
around 3.5 degrees positive. Vehicle
must be aligned before driving.
10. Attach the other end of the lower
control arm to the factory frame mount
using a ½” x 4 ½” bolt and Hex nut.
11. Eccentric eliminator plates are
includes and one must be installed on
each side of the frame. Start out with it
in the center, make sure both plates
are in the same position.
12. Slide the ball joint boot over the
ball joint, then place the spindle over
the ball joint stud. A ball joint spacer
will be necessary to align the castle nut
with the cotter pin hole. Grease ball
joint
Note: Before installing the spindle, turn
the ball joint stud so that the cotter pin
hole faces front to back. This will
make it easier to install/remove the
cotter pin.
13. Lubricate control arm bushing with
Lithium grease.
I
tem #
Description
Qty.
1. Driver side arm 1
2. Eccentric eliminator plate 2
3. Inner bushing sleeve 1
4. Poly bushing half 2
5. Bearing housing 1
6. Bearing retaining plate 1
7. Aluminum bearing spacer 1
8. Bearing stud (Set to 2- 15/16”)
9. Ball Joint 1
10. Control arm pivot bearing 1
11. ¾”-16 Jam nut 1
12. ¾”-16 Lock nut 1
13. ¾” x 2” flat washer 1
14. ½”-13 x 4 ½” Gr.5 bolt 1
15. ½”-13 Nylok nut 1
16. 3/8” lock washer 3
17. 3/8”-16 x 1 ½ SHCS 3
1
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 12103699
67-70 Mustang Upper StrongArms
For Use w/ Shockwaves or CoilOvers
Components:
2 90000115 Upper StrongArm
2 90000930 Upper ball joint
2 90000931 Billet Aluminum drop cross shaft
4 90001589 Heim ends – ¾”-16 thread x 5/8” I.D.
2 90000113 Alignment shim
Hardware:
4 99621002 5/8”-18 x 1 ¾” Gr.8 bolt Rod end to cross shaft
4 99623001 5/8” SAE Gr. 8 Flat washer Rod end to cross shaft
4 99623002 5/8” Gr. 8 Lock washer Rod end to cross shaft
4 99501003 ½”-13 x 2 ½” Gr.5 bolt Cross shaft to body
4 99502006 ½”-13 nut Cross shaft to body
8 99503001 ½” SAE flat washer Cross shaft to body
4 99503002 ½” lock washer Cross shaft to body
2 99501026 ½”-13 x 2 ¼” Gr.5 bolt Shockwave/CoilOver to upper arm
2 99502001 ½”-13 Nylok nut Shockwave/CoilOver to upper arm
4 99752004 ¾”-16 jam nut Heim ends
1. Bolt the upper StrongArm to the
body using ½” x 2 ½” bolts, flat
washers and lock washers. A shim is
supplied and may need to be installed
between the body and the arms to
achieve proper alignment.
2. The arms are preset at the factory
so the alignment should be close, but
the vehicle must be aligned before
driving.
Note: The upper arm mounting holes
on many cars have been redrilled 1”
lower. This is done to improve the
handling. Our cross shaft has the
drop built into it, make sure to use the
factory mounting holes.
3. Bolt the upper arm to the spindle
using the hardware and cotter pin
supplied.
4. Attach the Shockwave to the upper
StrongArm using a ½” x 2 ¼” bolt and
Nylok nut.
5. This control arm is designed to
work with our MuscleBar sway bar.
The end link will attach to the rear
mounting tab on the upper arm.
I
tem #
Description
Qty.
1. Control arm 1
2. Heim ends – ¾”-16 thread x 5/8” I.D.
2
3. Alignment shim 1
4. Cross shaft 1
5. Ball joint 1
6. ½”-13 x 2 ½” Gr.5 bolt 2
7. ½” SAE flat washer 4
8. ½” lock washer 2
9. ½”-13 nut 2
10. ½”-13 x 2 ¼” Gr.5 bolt 1
11. ½”-13 Nylok nut 1
12. 5/8”-18 x 1 ¾” Gr.8 bolt 2
13. 5/8” lock washer 2
14. 5/8” flat washer 2
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 12106509
67-70 Mustang Fixed Valving Rear CoilOvers
For Use w/ RideTech 4 Link
Shock Assembly:
2 24059999 5” stroke fixed valving threaded shock
2 90002021 1.7” eyelet
4 90001994 .625” I.D. bearing
8 90001995 Bearing snap ring
Components:
2 59120175 Coil spring – 12” long / 175 # rate
2 90002222 Spring retainer kit
8 90002043 Aluminum spacer for bearings
4 70010828 Delrin Spring Washer
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 12087199
64-70 Mustang Rear AirBar
Components:
1 90000513 Lower Shockwave mount
1 90000514 Lower Shockwave mount
2 90000144 Axle tabs
2 90000155 Axle tabs
2 90000515 Lower axle mount
1 90000518 Upper cradle assembly
2 90000511 “T” bolt plate
2 90001001 Upper bars – TW 7.375” (C-C length 9.50”)
2 90001025 Lower bars – WW 21.75”
2 99250001 ¼”-28 straight grease fitting
2 90001589 Threaded Kevlar lined Heim end
2 99752004 ¾”-16 jam nut – for rod end
4 90000552 Aluminum spacer for Heim end
4 90001085 Poly bushing for lower bar
2 90000519 Lower bar bushing sleeve
4 90001942 Rubber bushings pressed into bars
1 90000129 Pinion snubber reinforcement plate
4 99566001 U-bolt 9/16” x 3” w/nuts and washers
2 90002285 Square corner U bolts - Upper cradle to car
2 70010694 Jig brackets for upper bar installation
Hardware Kit: (Part # 99010016)
6 5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” Gr.5 bolt Bars to cradle and brackets
6 5/8”-11 Nylok jam nut Bars to cradle and brackets
4 3/8”-16 Nylok nut Upper cradle to car
4 3/8” SAE flat washer Upper cradle to car
4 1/2”-13 x 2 ¼” Gr.5 bolt Shockwaves to mounts
4 1/2”-13 Nylok jam nut Shockwaves to mounts
4 1/2”-13 x 1 ½” Gr. 5 bolt Shockwave brackets to axle brackets
6 1/2”-13 Nylok nut Shockwaves to mounts
2 1/2"-13 x 6” Gr. 5 bolt Lower bar to leaf spring mount (64-67 cars)
2 1/2"-13 x 4 ½” Gr. 5 bolt Lower bar to leaf spring mount (64-67 cars)
2 5/8”-18 Nylok nut “T” Bolt
2 5/8” SAE flat washer “T” Bolt
2 5/16”-18 x 1” Gr.5 bolt Upper cradle to pinion snubber mount
2 5/16” SAE flat washer Upper cradle to pinion snubber mount
2 5/16” lock washer Upper cradle to pinion snubber mount
2 7/16”-14 x 1 ¼” Gr.5 bolt Upper cradle to floor pan
2 7/16”-14 Nylok nut Upper cradle to floor pan
4 7/16” SAE flat washer Upper cradle to floor pan
2 3/8”-16 x ¾” Gr. 5 bolt Upper bar installation jig
2 3/8”-16 nut Upper bar installation jig
1. Raise the vehicle to a safe and comfortable working height. Use jack stands to support the vehicle
with the suspension hanging freely.
2. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs, shocks and tail pipes. Refer to the factory service
manual for proper disassemble procedures. Hang on to the front leaf spring bolts, they will be
reused.
3. The square U-bolts hold the upper
cradle in place and will slide through
two existing holes. Some cars may
not have these holes. In this case
use the cradle as a template.
Note: You may need to open the
holes up a bit to turn the bolt into
place.
4. Lower the axle and slide the
cradle assembly into place. The
cradle will be held in place with two
3/8 nylocs and flat washers. Do not
tighten these until all the bolts in the
cradle have been started.
5. The front of the cradle locates off
of the pinion snubber mount. A
reinforcement plate is supplied and is
installed on the inside of the car with the bolt threads pointing up. It is
held in place by two 5/16” bolts with
lock washers and flat washers. Two
additional 7/16” holes must be drilled
through the floor pan. 7/16” x 1 ¼”
bolts, Nyloks and flat washers are
supplied
Note: Inspect the factory welds
holding the pinion snubber mount to
the floor pan, re-weld if necessary.
6. This T bolt will be inserted from
the inside of the vehicle down
through the factory shock hole. A
5/8” nyloc and flat washer will hold
the cradle up tight to the bottom of
the car.
Note: Cars equipped with the “Drag
Pack” option will have staggered
shocks. You will have to remove the
plate covering the original shock hole.
7. Tighten all the upper cradle bolts.
8. The lower axle mount will bolt to
the leaf spring pad via the supplied U
bolts.
Note: To ease the rest of the install;
leave all bolts loose until the lower
bars are in place.
the Shockwave mounts.
e axle tabs to the upper bar using the
on the next page.
12. Bolt the lower Shockwave
mount to the bottom two holes of
the lower axle mount using two 1/2”
x 1 1/2" bolts with Nylok nuts. The
U shaped bracket will point towards
the inside of the car.
13. Raise the axle to ride height.
There should be approx. 14 1/2"
from center eye to center eye on
9. The large end of the lower bar (the
longer one) will bolt into the front stock
leaf spring mount using the stock
hardware with the grease zerk down.
10. This bushing in polyurethane and
is lubricated at the factory with lithium
grease. Future lubrication can be done
with any non-petroleum based
lubricant. The rubber bushings don’t
require lubrication.
11. Swing the bar up to the axle mount
and insert 5/8” x 2 3/4" bolt and thin
nyloc. Do not tighten just yet.
14. Bolt th
5/8” x 2 3/4" bolt and nyloc as shown in the
picture. The upper bar should measure 9.5”.
Bolt the other end to the cradle.
15. For now just lay the upper tabs on the axle.
Pinion angle and axle center must first be set.
Centering the axle is best done by leveling the
car and hanging a plum off of the quarter and
measuring to the axle. Pinion angle is explained
16. How do you set the
pinion angle? On a singlepiece shaft you want to set it
up where a line drawn through
the center of the engine
crankshaft or output shaft of
the transmission and a line
drawn through the center of
the pinion are parallel to each
other but not the same line.
A simple way to do this is to
place a digital angle finder or
dial level on the front face of
the lower engine pulley or
harmonic balancer. This will
give you a reading that is 90
degrees to the crank or output
shaft unless you have real
problems with your balancer.
At the other end, you can
place the same level or angle
finder against the front face of
the pinion yoke that is also at
90 degrees to the centerline.
If you rotate the yoke up or
down so both angles match,
you have perfect alignment.
Road testing will tell you if
you have it right. If you
accelerate and you get or
increase a vibration, then the
pinion yoke is too HIGH.
Rotate it downward in small
increments of a degree or two
until the problem goes away.
If you get or increase a
vibration when decelerating,
then the pinion yoke is too
LOW. Rotate it upward to
correct it.
17. Once all of the angles are set, tack
weld the upper tabs to the axle. To avoid
frying the bushing remove the upper bar
first then weld solid.
18. Install upper bars. With the vehicle at
ride height snug all 4 link bar bolts.
19. Apply thread sealant to the air fitting
and screw it into the top of the
Shockwave. Bolt the Shockwave into
place using
1/2" x 2 1/4" bolts with nylocs.
20. The installation is complete but you
want to check clearance of the brake lines,
parking brake cables, vent tubes and
exhaust. For the exhaust you can either
install a turndown or reroute the exhaust
under the axle.
21. Ride height air pressure should be
around 75-80 psi, with about 3-4 clicks in
the shocks.
Upper Bar Installation Jig
Item #
Description
• This jig has been supplied to aid in the installation of the upper 4 link bar. It can be
temporarily used to properly align, locate and weld the tabs onto the axle. It will also ensure
that the mounting bolts are parallel to the ground.
• Follow the diagram below to set the jig to the same length as the upper bar, use the 3/8” x 3/4”
bolt and nuts to set the length.
• Position the axle at ride height. Center the axle left to right between the quarter panels. Set
pinion angle.
• Bolt one end of the jig to the cradle using a 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt.
• Using another 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt, fasten the axle tabs to the other end. The tabs must be bolted
to the outside of the jig.
• Swing the bar down letting the tabs rest onto the axle. Trim the brackets as necessary to
minimize the gap to be welded.
• Check pinion angle, ride height and axle center. Tack-weld the tabs in place.
• After the tabs have been tack welded on both sides, remove the upper bars to avoid melting
the rubber bushings. Let the axle drop down for better access to the tabs. Lay 1” welds on the
inside and outside of the tabs. Skip around from one side to the other to avoid overheating
the tube.
1. Upper bar
2. 3/4”-16 jam nut
3. Heim end
4. Alignment jig
5. Aluminum spacer
6. 5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” bolt
7. 3/8”-16 nut
8. 3/8”-16 x 3/4" bolt
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Should I weld my AirBar 4 link assembly in?
Since we get this question quite often, it deserves a proper explanation.
The AirBar has been designed for bolt-in installation. We have paid special attention to
interfacing with key structural areas of each vehicle, fastening bracketry in at least two
planes to properly distribute load paths, and to using appropriate fasteners that roll,
rather than cut, threads into the vehicle structure.
Having said that, you could potentially encounter a vehicle that has rust or collision
damage in these areas. Or maybe you intend to consistently place the vehicle in
severe racing applications with sticky racing slicks and high speed corners. In these
cases it is perfectly acceptable to weld the AirBar components into your vehicle. Even
in these severe cases we recommend that you install the entire AirBar assembly first
[including the fasteners], and then use short 1” long tack welds to secure your
installation. Remember that the vehicle structure metal is typically much thinner [.060”.120” ] than the .188” thick AirBar brackets. If you burn through the vehicle sheet metal
structure you may end up with an installation that is weaker than before you tried to
weld it.
The other reason to weld in your AirBar assembly is…you simply want to. You’re a
welding kind of guy…that’s the way you’ve always done it…you have the skills and
equipment to do it. In that case…weld away with our blessing!
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