350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11260109
68-74 GM “X” Body Complete CoilOver System
Front Components:
1 11263509 RQ Series Front CoilOvers
1 11162899 Front Lower StrongArms
1 11163699 Front Upper StrongArms
1 11009300 RideTech Tall Spindles
Rear Components:
1 11267199 Rear AirBar – Bolt-on 4 Link
1 11266509 RQ Series Rear CoilOvers
Components:
1 85000000 Spanner Wrench
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11263509
68-74 GM “X” Body RQ Series Front CoilOvers
For Use w/ StrongArms and Tall Spindle
Shock Assembly:
2 24039999 3.6” stroke RQ Series shock
2 70008977 2.75” threaded stud top
2 90001994 .625” I.D. bearing
4 90001995 bearing snap ring
Components:
2 59080650 Coil spring – 8” long / 650 # rate
2 90002313 2.75” stud top base
2 90002222 Spring retainer kit (included upper and lower spring retainer, screw & clip)
2 90001902 Aluminum cap for Delrin ball
2 90001903 Delrin ball upper half
2 90001904 Delrin ball lower half
4 70010828 Delrin Spring Washer
Hardware:
2 99562003 9/16” SAE Nylok jam nut Stud top hardware
1. Impact Forged, Monotube shock
2. Rebound adjustment knob (SA Only)
3. Upper coil spring retainer
4. Lower coil spring retainer
5. High tensile coil spring
6. Set screw
7. Delrin Spring Washer
1. Stud top base
2. Lower Delrin ball half
3. Upper Delrin ball half
4. Aluminum cap
5. 9/16” Nylok jam nut
6. Threaded stud
7. Adjustment knob (SA Only)
8. Screw
9. Snap ring
1. Inspect the factory welds
attaching the upper shock bracket to
the frame. Re-weld if necessary.
2. To allow the step in the lower
Delrin ball half to slide into the
factory shock hole, the hole will need
to be drilled out to ¾”.
3. Assemble the CoilOver then place
into the coil spring pocket w/ the stud
and lower Delrin ball sticking through
the factory shock hole.
4. Check clearance between the
upper spring retainer and stud base
with the factory coil spring retainer.
5. Place the upper Delin ball over
stud, then the aluminum cap. Secure
the assembly w/ the 9/16” Nylok jam
nut.
6. Attach the bottom of the shock to
the lower StrongArms using the
spacers and hardware supplied w/
the arm.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11162899
67-69 GM “F” Body & 68-74 GM “X” Body Lower StrongArms
For Use w/ Shockwave or CoilOver
Components:
1 90000621 Driver side lower arm
1 90000622 Passenger side lower arm
2 90000898 Ball joint (includes boot, grease fitting, castle nut & cotter pin)
4 90000516 Inner bushing sleeve - .5” I.D. x .75” O.D. x 2.375” long
8 70010759 Delrin bushing half – 1.5” O.D.
4 90002062 Aluminum spacers – shock to lower arm
Hardware:
2 99501024 1/2”-13 x 3 ¼” Gr.5 bolt Shockwave to lower arm
4 99501005 1/2"-13 x 3 ½” Gr.5 bolt Lower arm to frame
6 99502001 1/2”-13 Nylok Nut Lower arm
2 99371010 3/8” x 5 ½” USS bolt Sway bar end link
4 99372002 3/8” USS Nylok Nut Sway bar end link & Steering Stop
2 99371005 3/8” x 1 ¼” USS bolt Steering stop
1. After removing the factory lower
control arm, clean the bushing
mounting surfaces on the frame and
lubricate with lithium grease.
2. Fasten the lower arm to the frame
with the ½” x 3 ½” bolts and Nylok nuts
supplied.
Note: On some cars the frame
brackets may be pinched and will need
to be spread back apart to allow
bushing to slide in.
3. Swing the lower StrongArm up to
the Shockwave and secure with the ½”
x 3 ¼” bolt and Nylok nut, an aluminum
spacer must be installed on each side
of the bearing.
4. Slide the ball joint boot over the
stud, then push the stud up through the
spindle. Secure w/ the new castle nut
and cotter pin supplied.
5. Grease the ball joints.
6. The Delrin Bushings are selflubricating, no grease is required.
Installation Instructions
7. Screw a 3/8” x 1 ¼” bolt and nut into
the hole in the side of the lower arm.
This will act as an adjustable steering
stop. After the wheel is install check
wheel clearance all full lock and adjust
as necessary.
8. If using factory style sway bar,
shorten the sway bar end link spacer to
1 ½” tall. New 3/8” x 5 ½” bolts and
Nylok nuts are supplied.
Item #
Description
Qty.
1.
Passenger side arm
1
1.
Driver side arm
1
2.
Aluminum bearing spacer
4
3.
Ball joint
2
5.
Inner bushing sleeve
4
6.
1/2”-13 x 3 ¼” bolt
2
7.
1/2"-13 x 3 ½” bolt
4
8.
1/2”-13 Nylok nut
6
9.
3/8”-16 x 1 ¼” bolt
2
10.
3/8”-16 Nylok nut
2
11.
Delrin Bushing Half
8
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11163699
67-69 GM “F” Body & 68-74 GM “X” Body Upper StrongArms
Components:
1 90002390 Drivers side arm
1 90002391 Passenger side arm
2 90000908 Ball joint (includes boot, grease fitting, castle nut & cotter pin)
2 90000914 Caster Adjustable Cross shaft
2 70010826 Delrin Bushing – no ledge
2 70010827 Delrin Bushing – small ledge
4 70010759 Delrin Bushing – outer
4 70010883 Zero Offset Caster Slugs
2 90001083 Medium bump stop w/ hardware
Hardware:
4 99163001 Stainless Washer Cross shaft to bushing
4 99622005 5/8” SAE crimp locking nuts Cross shaft to bushing
1. On some cars, to remove the upper
control arm you must remove the bolts,
which are pressed into the frame. We
made this slide hammer adapter (a nut
with a piece of angle iron welded to it)
to aid in removing the bolts.
2. Fasten the upper arm to the frame
using the factory hardware. Reinstall
the current alignment shims, but
vehicle must be realigned. This arm
was designed with an extra 2 degrees
of positive caster with the centered
caster slugs. Additional caster slugs
are available if more or less caster is
desired. By changing the caster slugs
you can achieve the caster setting you
are wanting without having to run a lot
of shims. Caster is explained of the
next page.
3. Drop ball joint down through upper
arm. Slide ball joint boot over stud,
then place boot retainer over the boot.
Clamp assembly tight w/ the hardware
supplied.
4. Fasten the ball joint to the spindle
w/ the new castle nut and cotter pin
supplied.
5. Tighten the cross shaft nuts enough
to create drag on the delrin bushings,
the arm should still move.
6. Lubricate the ball joint w/ standard
grease.
Installation Instructions
Driver Side Top View
These Strong Arms come equipped with a changeable caster slug setup. This allows you to add or
remove caster from the front suspension, if desired. The caster slugs that come in the kit are setup to
put the control arm in the centered position, which is approximately 3 degrees of caster. The caster
slugs allow you to add or remove caster without having to use a stack of shims. If more or less caster
is desired, optional caster slugs can be purchased from your Ridetech dealer or Ridetech.
Caster Explained:
To understand caster you need to picture an imaginary line that runs through the upper ball joint and
extends through the lower ball joint. From the side view the imaginary line will tilt forward or
backward. The tilting of this imaginary line is defined as caster.
Caster is measured in degrees by using a caster camber gauge. If the imaginary line described above
tilts towards the back of the car, at the top, then you will have positive caster. If the imaginary line tilts
forward then you would have negative caster.
Positive caster provides the directional stability in your car. Too much positive caster will make the
steering effort difficult. Power steering will allow you to run more positive caster. Negative caster
requires less steering effort but can cause the car to wander down the highway.
Item #
Description
Qty.
1.
Passenger side arm
1
1.
Driver side arm (Shown)
1
2.
Extension stop
2
3.
Ball joint
2
5.
3/8”-16 Nylok nut & washer
2
6.
1/4"-28 x 7/8” hex bolt
8
7.
1/4"-28 nut
8
8.
Inner Delrin bushing w/ledge
2
9.
Inner Delrin bushing no ledge
2
10.
Outer Delrin bushing
4
11.
Stainless washer
4
12.
5/8”-18 lock nut
4
13.
Caster Adjustable Cross shaft
2
14.
Caster Slug
4
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
11009300 GM “A” & “F” Body Tall Spindles
2 Tall Spindles
Hardware:
Lower steering arm bolts
(4) 1/2NFx 2 1/2” flathead socket head bolts with Nyloc nuts
Lower caliper bracket bolts
(2) 1/2NFx 2” flathead socket head bolts with Nyloc nuts (Wilwood and Baer Brake kits)
(2) 1/2NFx 2” Grade 8 hex head bolts (use with stock stamped ½” thick caliper brackets)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR Ridetech Tall SPINDLES
These spindles will fit ’67-69 Camaro, ’64-’72 Chevelle, and ’68-’74 Nova. They will provide a 2”
drop, and are taller than stock to improve the car’s cornering ability. The raised upper ball joint will
cause the tires to lean into the corner, like a motorcycle, rather than outboard as the shorter stock
spindles do. This camber action change also raises the roll center for less body roll, and transfer the
car’s center of gravity inboard in the turn as well. You will see an appreciable improvement in
handling. Standard size anti sway bars will work well with those improvements, without the need for
monster sway bars that can cause a harsh ride.
The spindles are modeled after stock disc brake spindles and will accept any disc brake set up
designed for those. If your car came with drum brakes, be sure to swap to the appropriate disc brake
master cylinder and valving. We have test fitted ECI, Wilwood, Baer, Aerospace, and stock GM kits.
The only modification we discovered to be necessary was a small trim on the bottom of the stamped
¼” steel caliper bracket that holds the caliper. It is an area that is not stressed and will not cause any
loss of strength. There are variations among the various reproduction the shaft to be flipped in it’s
bushings for brackets, so the trim will be seen only on some of those.
Stock stamped control arms will accept these spindles, as will any aftermarket arms we have seen.
Our own tubular control arms have the upper ball joint plates rotated slightly for better ball joint angles
on lowered cars. We also set the ball joint ¾” to the rear of the car to allow more aggressive positive
caster settings, as well as to compensate for the normal forward rake seen on hot rods. The upper
control arms shaft has a 3/16” offset, allowing the shaft to be rotated in it’s bushings for a 3/8” net
change in the upper arm’s effective length. That design was pioneered by the MOOG company, as
many stock autos suffer from a sagged cross member, making it difficult to obtain good alignment
numbers. We suggest the alignment be done with 1/8” toe in, ½ degree positive camber, and 3
degrees positive caster with power steering, 2 degrees manual.
It is important to be sure you have the proper steering arms. Many cars were updated to disc brakes
in the past by using disc brake and spindle assemblies from a donor car. However, the Chevelle
steering arms are front steer, and the tie rod is roughly the same height as the lower ball joint. The
Camaro and Nova arms are rear steer, with the outer tie rod end much lower than the ball joint. If the
incorrect arms are used, the incorrect height tie rod end will cause major bump steer problems. Our
testing of prototype versions of these spindles revealed that a small additional lowering of the
mounting holes for the steering arms was necessary to remove the small amount of factory
bumpsteer, and to account for the changes made by the taller spindle. We included that
enhancement in the production version of your new dropped spindles.
Disassembly of the ball joints from the spindles can be eased by making the simple tool shown in the
photo below. A pair of 1 ½” long bolts are threaded into a matching hex coupler. The ball joint cotter
pins are removed, and the hex nuts loosened a couple turns. Place the tool between the ball joint
studs, and turn a bolt to expand the tool, gently popping the ball joint studs loose. If your ball joint
boots are torn, as often happens when a pickle fork is used to separate the ball joints, NAPA has
replacements. The best way to remove the outer tie rod pivot is to loosen the hex nut, and then rap
the steering arm boss with a hammer. Tie rod ends pullers are also available if you want to be more
gentle on the parts. Do NOT hammer on the tie rod stud itself! Be sure to leave the shock absorber
in place to control the spring and prevent it jumping out.
If you remove the calipers but leave
the hoses attached, supporting them
to avoid stressing the hoses, you
won’t even need to rebleed the
brakes!
Reattach the new spindle, being sure to get the castle nuts tight, and install new cotter pins. Attach
the steering arms into the lower holes in the spindles using the 4 supplied 1/2NFx2 1/2” long flathead
bolts and Nyloc nuts supplied. The 1/2NFx 2” long flat head bolts and nyloc nuts we supply are for
use with Wilwood and Baer brake kit lower bracket bolts. The 1/2NFx2” hex head bolts are used with
stock caliper brackets. Reassemble your disc brakes as well. Now would be a good time to clean
and grease the bearings.
BEFORE you try moving the car, pump the brakes to reset the pads to the rotors. Rebleed if
necessary. Have the alignment shop set the car with ½ degree positive camber, 2-3 degrees positive
caster, and 1/8” toe in. We’re sure you’ll be amazed at the difference in handling!
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11266509
68-74 GM “X” Body RQ Series Rear CoilOvers
For Use w/ AirBar
Shock Assembly:
2 24059999 5” stroke RQ Series shock
2 90002021 1.7” eyelet – non adjustable
4 90001994 .625” I.D. bearing
8 90001995 bearing snap ring
Components:
2 59120175 Coil spring – 12” long / 175 # rate
2 90002222 Spring retainer kit (included upper and lower spring retainer, screw & clip)
4 90002043 Aluminum bearing spacer - .5” I.D.
4 70010828 Delrin Spring Washer
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11267199
68-74 Nova Rear AirBar
Components:
1 90002077 Lower axle bracket - Driver
1 90002078 Lower axle bracket - Passenger
2 90001624 Lower billet Shockwave mount
2 90001617 Lower Shockwave stud
4 90002067 Aluminum spacer for stud
2 90000704 Tall Axle tabs (Outside)
2 90000705 Short Axle tabs (Inside)
1 90000703 Upper cradle assembly
2 90001001 Upper bars – TW 7.375” (C-C length 9.250”)
1 90001029 Lower bar – WW 24.75” - Passenger side
1 90002328 Lower bar – WW 24.75” - Driver side
2 99250001 ¼”-28 straight grease fitting
2 90001589 Threaded Kevlar line Heim end
2 99752004 ¾”-16 jam nut – for rod end
4 90000552 Aluminum spacer for Heim end
4 90001942 Rubber bushings pressed into bars & rod ends
4 90001090 Poly bushing for lower bar
2 90000526 Lower bar bushing sleeve
2 70010694 Jig brackets for upper bar installation
Hardware Kit: (Part # 99010030)
2 1/2”-13 x 1 ¼” Gr. 5 bolt Billet mount to axle bracket
2 1/2"-13 x 1 ¾” Gr. 5 bolt Billet mount to axle bracket
4 1/2”-13 Nylok nut Billet mount to axle bracket
6 5/8”-11 x 2 3/4" Gr.5 bolt Bar ends
6 5/8”-11 Nylok jam nut Bar ends
2 1/2"-13 x 2 ¼ Gr.5 bolt Upper Shockwave mount
2 1/2"-13 Nylok jam nut Upper Shockwave mount
16 3/8”-16 x 1” Thread forming bolt Upper cradle assembly
16 3/8” SAE flat washer Upper cradle assembly
8 7/16”-20 Nylok nut Lower axle mount - U bolts
2 3/8”-16 x ¾” Gr. 5 bolt Upper bar installation jig
2 3/8”-16 nut Upper bar installation jig
3. One more thing needs to be removed
before starting the assembly; it’s the
pinion snubber and mount. For a clean
cut use a cut off wheel and smooth any
burrs.
4. Lower the axle enough to slide the
upper cradle into place. On most cars
the location of the cradle will index off of
the factory bump stop bolt hole. If your
car has the bump stop beside the frame,
slide the cradle forward until the front
tube touches the body.
Note: The gas line may need to be
moved.
5. A series of self-tapping 3/8” bolts are
used to hold the cradle in place. First
drill the holes with a 5/16” bit and then
thread the bolts into the frame.
6. Install the large end of the lower bar
(the long one) into the factory spring
mount using the factory hardware. Do
not over tighten this bolt; it should be
snug. The bar is offset to the inside of
1. Raise the vehicle to a safe and comfortable working height. Use jack stands to support the vehicle
with the suspension hanging freely.
2. Support the axle and remove the bump stops, leaf springs, shocks and tail pipes. Refer to the
factory service manual for proper disassemble procedures. Keep the factory upper shock bolts,
bump stop bolts, U-bolts, and front leaf spring mount and bolts.
9. The lower axle bracket will be
fastened to the leaf spring pad using the
factory U-bolts. It is offset to the inside
of the car. New 7/16” nylocs are
supplied.
10. Bolt the lower Shockwave mount to
the lower holes of the axle bracket if you
have a monoleaf car. If you have a
multileaf car the bottom of the billet
mount will be flush with the axle bracket.
11. Swing the lower bar up to the axle
bracket and insert 5/8” x 2 3/4" bolt. The
standard hole is the center hole like in
the picture. Thread 5/8” Nylok onto the
bolt but do not tighten yet.
12. This end of the bar as well as the
upper bars are rubber and do not require
lubrication.
13. Check the length of the upper bar; it
should be 9 1/4" C-C. Bolt the axle tabs
to the upper bar as shown in the picture.
(Longer ears to the front) Then place
the other end into the cradle. Both ends
use a 5/8” x 2 3/4" and should not be
fully tightened yet. For now just the let
axle tabs sit on the axle.
14. Before welding these tabs to the
axle you will need to center the axle and
set pinion angle. We used a plum on the
outside of the quarter panel to center the
axle left to right. Setting the pinion angle
is explained on the next page. This
must be done at ride height.
15. How do you set the
pinion angle? On a singlepiece shaft you want to set it
up where a line drawn through
the center of the engine
crankshaft or output shaft of
the transmission and a line
drawn through the center of
the pinion are parallel to each
other but not the same line.
A simple way to do this is to
place a digital angle finder or
dial level on the front face of
the lower engine pulley or
harmonic balancer. This will
give you a reading that is 90
degrees to the crank or output
shaft unless you have real
problems with your balancer.
At the other end, you can
place the same level or angle
finder against the front face of
the pinion yoke that is also at
90 degrees to the centerline.
If you rotate the yoke up or
down so both angles match,
you have perfect alignment.
Road testing will tell you if
you have it right. If you
accelerate and you get or
increase a vibration, then the
pinion yoke is too HIGH.
Rotate it downward in small
increments of a degree or two
until the problem goes away.
If you get or increase a
vibration when decelerating,
then the pinion yoke is too
LOW. Rotate it upward to
correct it.
16. One helpful trick to help maintain
ride height and pinion angle while
adjusting is to tack weld a spacer
between the axle and the outside of the
frame as shown in the picture. This
spacer should be 8 3/8” tall giving the
Shockwave an eye-to-eye measurement
of 14 1/2" to 15”.
17. After double-checking pinion angle,
ride height, and axle center the tabs can
be tack welded. Remove the bar to
avoid frying the bushing and finish
welding the tabs to the axle.
18. Apply thread sealant to the air fitting
and screw it into the Shockwave.
19. Install the Shockwaves using the
1/2" x 2 1/4" bolt and nyloc on top and
the 7/16” nyloc on the lower stud mount.
There should be a washer on either side
of the Shockwave on the stud and none
on the upper mount.
20. You can now go back and snug all
of the bar end nylocs. This must be
done at ride height.
21. You can now remove the spacer
from between the axle and frame.
22. The installation is complete but you
want to check clearance of the brake
lines, parking brake cables, vent tubes
and exhaust. For the exhaust you can
either install a turndown or reroute the
exhaust under the axle.
23. Ride height is 14.5”, around 70psi.
Upper Bar Installation Jig
Item #
Description
1.
Upper bar
2.
3/4”-16 jam nut
3.
Heim end
4.
Alignment jig
5.
Aluminum spacer
6.
5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” bolt
7.
3/8”-16 nut
8.
3/8”-16 x 3/4" bolt
This jig has been supplied to aid in the installation of the upper 4 link bar. It can be
temporarily used to properly align, locate and weld the tabs onto the axle. It will also ensure
that the mounting bolts are parallel to the ground.
Follow the diagram below to set the jig to the same length as the upper bar, use the 3/8” x 3/4”
bolt and nuts to set the length.
Position the axle at ride height. Center the axle left to right between the quarter panels. Set
pinion angle.
Bolt one end of the jig to the cradle using a 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt.
Using another 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt, fasten the axle tabs to the other end. The tabs must be bolted
to the outside of the jig.
Swing the bar down letting the tabs rest onto the axle. Trim the brackets as necessary to
minimize the gap to be welded.
Check pinion angle, ride height and axle center. Tack-weld the tabs in place.
Remove jig and install upper bar.
Repeat this process for the other side.
Recheck pinion angle, ride height and axle center. (Sound familiar?)
After the tabs have been tack welded on both sides, remove the upper bars to avoid melting
the rubber bushings. Let the axle drop down for better access to the tabs. Lay 1” welds on the
inside and outside of the tabs. Skip around from one side to the other to avoid overheating
the tube.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Should I weld my AirBar 4 link assembly in?
Since we get this question quite often, it deserves a proper explanation.
The AirBar has been designed for bolt-in installation. We have paid special attention to interfacing
with key structural areas of each vehicle, fastening bracketry in at least two planes to properly
distribute load paths, and to using appropriate fasteners that roll, rather than cut, threads into the
vehicle structure.
Having said that, you could potentially encounter a vehicle that has rust or collision damage in these
areas. Or maybe you intend to consistently place the vehicle in severe racing applications with sticky
racing slicks and high speed corners. In these cases it is perfectly acceptable to weld the AirBar
components into your vehicle. Even in these severe cases we recommend that you install the entire
AirBar assembly first [including the fasteners], and then use short 1” long tack welds to secure your
installation. Remember that the vehicle structure metal is typically much thinner [.060”-.120” ] than
the .188” thick AirBar brackets. If you burn through the vehicle sheet metal structure you may end up
with an installation that is weaker than before you tried to weld it.
The other reason to weld in your AirBar assembly is…you simply want to. You’re a welding kind of
guy…that’s the way you’ve always done it…you have the skills and equipment to do it. In that
case…weld away with our blessing!
Ride Height
We have designed most cars to have a ride height of about 2” lower than factory. To achieve the best ride
quality & handling, the shock absorber needs to be at 40-60% overall travel when the car is at ride height. This
will ensure that the shock will not bottom out or top out over even the largest bumps. Measuring the shock can
be difficult, especially on some front suspensions. Measuring overall wheel travel is just as effective and can
be much easier. Most cars will have 4-6” of overall wheel travel. One easy way to determine where you are
at in wheel travel is to take a measurement from the fender lip (center of the wheel) to the ground. Then lift
the car by the frame until the wheel is just touching the ground, re-measure. This will indicate how far you are
from full extension of the shock. A minimum of 1.5” of extension travel (at the wheel) is needed to ensure that
the shock does not top out. If you are more than 3” from full extension of the shock then you are in danger of
bottoming out the shock absorber.
Adjusting Spring Height
When assembling the CoilOver, screw the spring retainer tight up to the spring (0 preload). After entire
weight of car is on the wheels, jounce the suspension and roll the car forward and backward to alleviate
suspension bind.
If the car is too high w/ 0 preload then a smaller rate spring is required. Although threading the spring
retainer down would lower the car, this could allow the spring to fall out of its seat when lifting the car by
the frame.
If the car is too low w/ 0 preload, then preload can then be added by threading the spring retainer up to
achieve ride height. On 2.6” - 4” stroke shocks, up to 1.5” of preload is acceptable. On 5-7” stroke
shocks, up to 2.5” of preload is acceptable. If more preload is needed to achieve ride height a stiffer
spring rate is required. Too much preload may lead to coil bind, causing ride quality to suffer.
Loading...