62-67 Nova Level 1 Air Suspension Package
Front Components:
1 11252409 Front RQ Series Shockwaves
Rear Components:
1 11257199 Rear AirBar 4 Link
1 20250701 Rear RQ Series Shockwaves
Compressor System:
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11250199
1 30154000 3 Gallon Analog Compressor Kit
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11252409
62-67 Chevy II & Nova Front RQ Series Shockwave
Shockwave Assembly:
2 24029999 2.6” stroke RQ Series shock
2 24090399 104mm bellow assembly
2 90009986 Short stud top (2”)
2 90001639 Nova T-Bar
4 90009937 T-Bar snap rings
4 90009936 T-Bar washer
4 70009554 Poly bushing half
Components:
2 90002310 Short stud top base (2”)
2 90001902 Delrin ball aluminum cap
2 90001903 Upper delrin ball half
2 90001904 Lower delrin ball half
2 90001638 Upper Mount Plates
2 90001637 Lower Mount Plates
2 31954201 1/4 x 1/4 swivel elbows
Hardware:
2 99622003 5/8” Nylok nut Upper stud
4 99371004 3/8” x 1 ¼” USS bolt T-Bar to upper arm
4 99372002 3/8” USS Nylok nut T-Bar to upper arm
8 99373003 3/8” SAE flat washer T-Bar to upper arm
8 99311001 5/16” x 1” USS bolts Upper plates
8 99312003 5/16” USS Nylok nut Upper plates
16 99313002 5/16” SAE flat washer Upper plates
1. Place the upper Shockwave plate
on top of the strut tower. Temporarily
secure the plate with two 5/16” x 1”
bolts, Nylok nuts and a flat washer on
each side.
2. With a 5/16” bit drill the two holes
closest to the engine.
3. Remove the nylocs and hold the
lower plate up to the bottom of the strut
tower and finger tighten the nylocs.
Drop the last two bolts into place then
tighten all four bolts.
11252409 Installation Instructions
1. Raise and support vehicle at a safe, comfortable working height. Let the front suspension hang
freely.
2. Remove the coil spring, shock absorber, upper shock mount, lower coil spring mount, and strut
tower reinforcement plate. Refer to a factory service manual for proper disassembly procedure.
The strut tower reinforcement plate will be reused.
4. Apply thread sealant to the air fitting
and screw it into the top of the
Shockwave.
5. Place the lower Delrin ball half over
the stud.
6. Hold the Shockwave up to the strut
tower with the stud protruding through
the upper plate.
7. Slide the upper Delrin ball half over
the stud, then the aluminum cap.
Secure the assembly w/ a 12mm Nylok
nut.
8. Raise the upper arm up to the
Shockwave and fasten the Shockwave
trunnion to the upper arm using two
3/8” x 1 ¼” bolts, nylocs and a washer
on each side.
9. Before reinstalling the strut tower
reinforcement plate route the airline.
10. Double check air spring clearance
through full suspension travel.
11. Driving pressure should be around
85psi, but will vary to driver preference
and vehicle weight.
1. Stud top base
2. Lower Delrin ball half
3. Upper Delrin ball half
4. Aluminum cap
5. 9/16” Nylok jam nut
6. Threaded stud
7. Adjustment knob (SA Only)
8. Screw
9. Snap ring (Coil Over Only)
The care and feeding of your new ShockWaves
1. Although the ShockWave has an internal bumpstop, DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE
DEFLATED RESTING ON THIS BUMPSTOP. DAMAGE WILL RESULT. The internal
bumpstop will be damaged, the shock bushings will be damaged, and the vehicle shock
mounting points may be damaged to the point of failure. This is a non warrantable situation.
2. Do not drive the vehicle overinflated or “topped out”. Over a period of time the shock valving
will be damaged, possibly to the point of failure. This is a non warrantable situation! If you
need to raise your vehicle higher that the ShockWave allows, you will need a longer unit.
3. The ShockWave is designed to give a great ride quality and to raise and lower the vehicle. IT
IS NOT MADE TO HOP OR JUMP! If you want to hop or jump, hydraulics are a better choice.
This abuse will result in bent piston rods, broken shock mounts, and destroyed bushings. This
is a non warrantable situation.
4. Do not let the ShockWave bellows rub on anything. Failure will result. This is a non
warrantable situation.
5. The ShockWave product has been field tested on numerous vehicles as well as subjected to
many different stress tests to ensure that there are no leakage or durability problems. Failures
have been nearly nonexistent unless abused as described above. If the Shockwave units are
installed properly and are not abused, they will last many, many years. ShockWave units
that are returned with broken mounts, bent piston rods, destroyed bumpstops or
bushings, or abrasions on the bellows will not be warrantied.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11257199
62-67 Nova Rear AirBar
Components:
1 90002077 Lower axle bracket - Driver
1 90002078 Lower axle bracket - Passenger
1 90000535 Lower shockwave mount
1 90000536 Lower shockwave mount
2 90000144 Axle tabs
2 90000524 Axle tabs
1 90000539 Upper bar mount
1 90000540 Upper bar mount
2 90000533 Upper bar bolt plate
1 90000537 Upper cross member
2 90001001 Upper bar – TW 7.375” (C-C length 9.50”)
2 90001030 Lower bar – WW 25.00”
2 99250001 ¼”-28 straight grease fitting
4 90001085 Poly bushing halves for lower bar
4 90000538 Lower bar bushing sleeve
2 90001589 Threaded Kevlar lined Heim end
2 99752004 ¾”-16 jam nut – for rod end
4 90000552 Aluminum spacer for Heim end
4 90001942 Rubber bushings pressed into bars
2 90002285 Square corner U bolt - Upper cross member to car
2 70010694 Jig brackets for upper bar installation
Hardware Kit: (Part # 99010018)
6 5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” Gr.5 bolt Bars to cross member and brackets
6 5/8”-11 Nylok jam nut Bars to cross member and brackets
12 3/8”-16 Nylok nut Upper bar mount and cross member
12 3/8” SAE flat washer Upper bar mount and cross member
4 1/2"-13 x 2 ¼” Gr.5 bolt Shockwaves to mounts
4 1/2"-13 Nylok jam nut Shockwaves to mounts
4 5/8”-11 x 1 ¼” Gr.5 bolt Shockwave brackets to axle brackets
4 5/8”-11 Nylok nut Shockwave brackets to axle brackets
8 7/16”-20 Nylok nut U-bolts
2 3/8”-16 x ¾” Gr. 5 bolt Upper bar installation jig
2 3/8”-16 nut Upper bar installation jig
1. The pinion snubber mount must be
cut on the line shown in the picture. This
allows more clearance of the pinion for
maximum drop.
2. Remove the gas tank sending unit
wire from the tank and pull it into the
trunk.
3. This raised area around the gas tank
sending unit wire must be flattened to
allow the upper bar mount to sit against
the pan. The area marked in chalk can
either be pie cut, hammered flat and
welded back together or cut out
completely.
1. Raise the vehicle to a safe and comfortable working height. Use jack stands to support the vehicle
with the suspension hanging freely.
2. Support the axle and remove the leaf springs, shocks, pinion snubber, and tail pipes. Refer to the
factory service manual for proper disassemble procedures. Keep the factory upper shock bolts and
front leaf spring mounting bolts.
4. The upper bar mount will bolt to the
bottom of the car using the factory shock
bolts and locates off the factory shock
mount.
Note: The bar mount will point towards
the outside of the car. This is the
passenger side.
5. Using the bracket as a template drill 4
7/16” holes through the pan.
6. The upper bar bolt plate can be
dropped into place from the trunk. The
bracket will be clamped into place using
3/8” nylocs and flat washers.
7. Lower the axle enough to slide the
upper crossmember into place. The
frame is wider towards the rear of the car
as is the crossmember. Push it forward
until it is tight between the frame rails,
but make sure it is square. Drill two
holes with a 7/16” drill bit.
8. Remove the crossmember and drop
the 3/8” U-bolt through the holes.
Reinstall crossmember and tighten with
3/8” nylocs and flat washers.
Shown below:
9. Bolt the lower axle bracket to leaf
spring plate on the bottom of the axle
using the new 7/16” nylocs supplied. Do
not tighten until the lower bar is in place.
10. Install the lower arm (the longer one)
into the oem leaf spring hanger using the
factory hardware. This is a polyurethane
bushing and is lubricated at the factory
with lithium grease. Any future
lubrication can be done with any nonpetroleum based lubricant.
11. The other end of the lower bar will
attach to the axle bracket using 5/8” x 2
3/4" bolts and nylocs. This is a rubber
bushing and does not require lubrication.
Do not tighten the bar bolts yet.
12. The lower Shockwave mount is
bolted to the lower two holes of the axle
bracket with two 5/8” x 1 1/2" bolts and
nylocs The U shaped portion of the
bracket will face toward the inside of the
vehicle.
13. Bolt the axle tabs to the upper bar
as shown in the picture. Then bolt the
other end to the upper bar mount. Do
not weld the tabs yet.
14. Before welding the tabs you must
center the axle and set the pinion angle.
This must be done at ride height. Raise
the axle until the is 14 1/2" from center
eye to center eye on the Shockwave
mounts, this is ride height. One trick that
we use to maintain the settings are to
tack weld a 4” spacer between the axle
and the frame.
15. How do you set the pinion
angle? On a single-piece
shaft you want to set it up
where a line drawn through the
center of the engine crankshaft
or output shaft of the
transmission and a line drawn
through the center of the
pinion are parallel to each
other but not the same line.
A simple way to do this is to
place a digital angle finder or
dial level on the front face of
the lower engine pulley or
harmonic balancer. This will
give you a reading that is 90
degrees to the crank or output
shaft unless you have real
problems with your balancer.
At the other end, you can
place the same level or angle
finder against the front face of
the pinion yoke that is also at
90 degrees to the centerline.
If you rotate the yoke up or
down so both angles match,
you have perfect alignment.
Road testing will tell you if
you have it right. If you
accelerate and you get or
increase a vibration, then the
pinion yoke is too HIGH.
Rotate it downward in small
increments of a degree or two
until the problem goes away.
If you get or increase a
vibration when decelerating,
then the pinion yoke is too
LOW. Rotate it upward to
correct it.
16. Axle center is best determined by
dropping a plum on the outside of the
quarter panel and measuring into the
axle. This must be done with the car
level from side to side.
17. Once everything has been doublechecked you can tack weld the tabs the
axle. After removing the upper bar from
the tabs you can finish welding the tabs.
This will prevent you from frying the
bushings.
18. Reinstall the upper bar and snug all
bar bolt with the axle still at ride height.
The 4” spacer can now be removed.
19. A new 3/4" hole must be drilled for
the sending unit wire. You can reuse the
original grommet.
20. Apply thread sealant the air fitting
and screw it into the top of the
Shockwave.
21. The Shockwave will be secured into
place with 1/2" x 2 1/4" bolts and nylocs.
22. Check clearance with brake lines,
parking brake and vent tubes.
23. The exhaust can either be rerouted
under the axle or a turn down can be
installed.
Upper Bar Installation Jig
Item #
Description
1.
Upper bar
2.
3/4”-16 jam nut
3.
Heim end
4.
Alignment jig
5.
Aluminum spacer
6.
5/8”-11 x 2 ¾” bolt
7.
3/8”-16 nut
8.
3/8”-16 x 3/4" bolt
This jig has been supplied to aid in the installation of the upper 4 link bar. It can be
temporarily used to properly align, locate and weld the tabs onto the axle. It will also ensure
that the mounting bolts are parallel to the ground.
Follow the diagram below to set the jig to the same length as the upper bar, use the 3/8” x 3/4”
bolt and nuts to set the length.
Position the axle at ride height. Center the axle left to right between the quarter panels. Set
pinion angle.
Bolt one end of the jig to the cradle using a 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt.
Using another 5/8” x 2 ¾” bolt, fasten the axle tabs to the other end. The tabs must be bolted
to the outside of the jig.
Swing the bar down letting the tabs rest onto the axle. Trim the brackets as necessary to
minimize the gap to be welded.
Check pinion angle, ride height and axle center. Tack-weld the tabs in place.
Remove jig and install upper bar.
Repeat this process for the other side.
Recheck pinion angle, ride height and axle center. (Sound familiar?)
After the tabs have been tack welded on both sides, remove the upper bars to avoid melting
the rubber bushings. Let the axle drop down for better access to the tabs. Lay 1” welds on the
inside and outside of the tabs. Skip around from one side to the other to avoid overheating
the tube.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Should I weld my AirBar 4 link assembly in?
Since we get this question quite often, it deserves a proper explanation.
The AirBar has been designed for bolt-in installation. We have paid special attention to
interfacing with key structural areas of each vehicle, fastening bracketry in at least two
planes to properly distribute load paths, and to using appropriate fasteners that roll,
rather than cut, threads into the vehicle structure.
Having said that, you could potentially encounter a vehicle that has rust or collision
damage in these areas. Or maybe you intend to consistently place the vehicle in
severe racing applications with sticky racing slicks and high speed corners. In these
cases it is perfectly acceptable to weld the AirBar components into your vehicle. Even
in these severe cases we recommend that you install the entire AirBar assembly first
[including the fasteners], and then use short 1” long tack welds to secure your
installation. Remember that the vehicle structure metal is typically much thinner [.060”.120” ] than the .188” thick AirBar brackets. If you burn through the vehicle sheet metal
structure you may end up with an installation that is weaker than before you tried to
weld it.
The other reason to weld in your AirBar assembly is…you simply want to. You’re a
welding kind of guy…that’s the way you’ve always done it…you have the skills and
equipment to do it. In that case…weld away with our blessing!
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 24050701
7000 RQ Series ShockWaves
5” Stroke – .625” Bearing/.625” Bearing
2 24090799 7000 Series rolling sleeve assembly
2 24059999 5” stroke RQ Series shock
4 90001994 .625” I.D. spherical bearing
8 90001995 Bearing snap ring
2 90002021 Bearing eyelet
8 90002043 ½” ID Bearing Spacers
2 31954201 ¼” npt x ¼” tube swivel elbows
Compressed Height 11.5”
Ride Height 14.5”
Extended Height 16.5”
Use these
spacers when
mounting on 5/8”
bolt.
Use these spacers
when mounting on
1/2” bolt.
4” Inflated
Diameter
7000 Series Shockwave
The care and feeding of your new ShockWaves
1. Although the ShockWave has an internal bumpstop, DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE
DEFLATED RESTING ON THIS BUMPSTOP. DAMAGE WILL RESULT. The internal
bumpstop will be damaged, the shock bushings will be damaged, and the vehicle shock
mounting points may be damaged to the point of failure. This is a non warrantable situation.
2. Do not drive the vehicle overinflated or “topped out”. Over a period of time the shock valving
will be damaged, possibly to the point of failure. This is a non warrantable situation! If you
need to raise your vehicle higher that the ShockWave allows, you will need a longer unit.
3. The ShockWave is designed to give a great ride quality and to raise and lower the vehicle. IT
IS NOT MADE TO HOP OR JUMP! If you want to hop or jump, hydraulics are a better choice.
This abuse will result in bent piston rods, broken shock mounts, and destroyed bushings. This
is a non warrantable situation.
4. Do not let the ShockWave bellows rub on anything. Failure will result. This is a non
warrantable situation.
5. The ShockWave product has been field tested on numerous vehicles as well as subjected to
many different stress tests to ensure that there are no leakage or durability problems. Failures
have been nearly nonexistent unless abused as described above. If the Shockwave units are
installed properly and are not abused, they will last many, many years. ShockWave units
that are returned with broken mounts, bent piston rods, destroyed bumpstops or
bushings, or abrasions on the bellows will not be warrantied.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 30154000
4000 Series RidePro 4 Way Compressor System
3 Gallon Tank – Analog Gauges
Components:
1 31920020 Thomas 319 Compressor
1 31194000 RidePro 4 Way analog control panel with rocker switches (Black Face)
1 31913100 3 gallon aluminum tank
1 31934001 RidePro 4 Way valve block
1 31980005 Pressure switch – 135 On / 150 Off
Wiring:
1 31900022 30 amp relay
1 90001924 Fuse holder
1 90001922 20 Amp fuse
2 31900036 Wiring harness - Control panel to valve
3 99104001 10-24 x 1” phillips screw
3 99102002 10-24 Nylok nut
3 99103001 #10 SAE flat washer
1 90001916 #10 x 5/16 ring terminal
1 90001913 12-10 butt connector
2 90001918 Female spade connector
Airline & Fittings:
2 31940002 1/4” DOT airline - 30 ft. roll - valve block to gauges
2 31940000 1/8” DOT airline - 25 ft. roll - valve block to gauges
1 31952150 1/8”npt x 1/4” tube female straight - compressor
1 31957003 2” Brass Nipple - compressor
6 31954201 1/4” npt x 1/4” tube Elbow airline fitting
7 31954000 1/4” npt x 1/4” tube Straight airline fitting
4 31952000 1/8” npt x 1/8” tube Straight fitting - manifold to gauge fitting
1 31957004 1/4” npt plug - plug unused supply port
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
ARC4000 Compressor System Instructions
These are some general guidelines to follow when installing your new RidePro air control system.
Depending on the vehicle there are many different ways to plumb the system. Start out by
planning a lay out of where you want everything to be mounted. Typically we try to keep the
compressor, solenoids, tank, and sending units in a central location, but they can be separated to
suit your needs.
Mounting the Compressor/ Pressure Switch
Remove the negative battery cable before beginning installation.
All of our compressors are sealed for moisture and dust resistance so they can be mounted
anywhere on the vehicle. Although it is best to mount it in a place out of direct contact with
rain and snow. It is OK to mount it underneath the vehicle but keep it inside the frame rails
away from water and debris thrown off the tire.
This is a dry compressor; therefore it is maintenance free and can be mounted in any
position.
It is best if mounted to something solid to reduce vibration and noise. If mounting it to
sheet metal or the bed of a truck, use sound deadening material between the compressor
and the mounting surface.
Use the rubber grommets supplied on the feet of the compressor to reduce vibration.
A template is supplied to aid in drilling the holes. Check template with compressor before
drilling the holes.
Apply thread sealant to the pressure switch and compressor T and screw into the tank.
One spade of the pressure switch will connect to power the other to the red wire on the
compressor.
Mounting the Air Tank
The air tank can be mounted anywhere on the vehicle in any position.
A template is supplied to aid in drilling the holes. Check the template with the tank before
drilling the holes.
If your air system is used frequently you may want to remove the tank once a season to
drain any excessive accumulation of water.
Mounting the RidePro Air Valves
The valves, like the compressor, are sealed and can be mounted in the same locations.
Although if the vehicle will be exposed to freezing temperatures it is a good idea to mount
them in the engine bay if possible to reduce the possibility of freezing.
They can be mounted in any position.
Mount the valves higher than the tank to avoid moisture build up. This could cause the air
pressure sensors to give a faulty reading.
Attach the ground strap to a good, clean ground (preferably the frame).
The exhaust port will be left open.
The valve is held closed with the pressure in the tank. If tank pressure drops below air
spring pressure they will equalize deflating all 4 air springs.
Wiring Harness
The red wire on the harness will connect to 12 v.
The gray wire will then supply the gauge light 12v. Or the gauge light can be powered with
illumination.
Routing the Airline and Fittings
Make all airline cuts with a razor or tubing cutter. It must be clean and straight or it will not
seal.
All fittings are DOT approved push-to-connect style. They are very simple to use and are
reusable. Firmly push the airline into the fitting to attach. To release the airline pull the
collar on the fitting back towards the fitting and pull the airline out.
Use thread sealant on all fittings.
Do not over tighten the fittings. This could result in breaking the fitting or damaging the air
spring.
All of our airlines are DOT approved so they are very strong. But keep them away from
any sharp edges. Also when passing through a hole in the frame use a grommet.
Keep away from intense heat including mufflers and exhaust manifolds.
Use zip ties or other fasteners to secure the airline.
ARC4000
Wiring at control panel:
Gray connects to gauge light
Red connects to “key on” power at fuse box
Relay Wiring Diagram
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