350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11230109
64-67 GM “A” Body Complete CoilOver System
Front Components:
1 11233509 Front Non-adjustable CoilOvers
1 11222899 Front Lower StrongArms
1 11223699 Front Upper StrongArms
1 11009300 RideTech Tall Spindles
Rear Components:
1 11236699 Rear Upper Strong Arms
1 11224499 Rear Lower Strong Arms
1 11226109 Rear Non Adjustable CoilOvers
Components:
1 85000000 Spanner Wrench
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11233509
64-67 GM “A” Body Non Adjustable Front CoilOvers
For Use w/ StrongArms & RideTech Spindles
Shock Assembly:
2 24049999 4.1” stroke non adjustable shock
2 70008977 2.75” non adjustable threaded stud top
2 90001994 .625” I.D. bearing
4 90001995 Bearing snap ring
Components:
2 59100600 Coil spring – 10” long / 600 # rate
2 90002313 2.75” stud top base
2 90002222 Spring retainer kit
2 90001902 Aluminum cap for Delrin ball
2 90001903 Delrin ball upper half
2 90001904 Delrin ball lower half
4 70010828 Delrin Spring Washer
Hardware:
2 99562003 9/16” SAE Nylok jam nut Stud top hardware
1. Impact Forged, Monotube shock
2. Rebound adjustment knob (SA Only)
3. Upper coil spring retainer
4. Lower coil spring retainer
5. High tensile coil spring
6. Set screw
7. Delrin Spring Washer
1. Stud top base
2. Lower Delrin ball half
3. Upper Delrin ball half
4. Aluminum cap
5. 9/16” Nylok jam nut
6. Threaded stud
7. Adjustment knob (SA Only)
8. Screw
9. Snap ring
1. To allow the step in the lower
Delrin ball half to slide into the
factory shock hole, the bushing cup
will need to be removed (if your car
has one) and the hole may need to
be drilled out to ¾”.
2. Assemble the CoilOver then place
into the coil spring pocket w/ the stud
and lower Delrin ball sticking through
the factory shock hole.
3. Check clearance between the
upper factory spring retaining lip and
stud top base. Allowing this to hit
could cause the shock to break, this
4. Place the upper Delrin ball over
stud, then the aluminum cap. Secure
the assembly w/ the 9/16” Nylok jam
nut.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11222899
64-72 GM “A” Body Front Lower StrongArms
For Use w/ Shockwaves or CoilOvers
Components:
1 90000636 Driver side lower arm
1 90000637 Passenger side lower arm
2 90000898 Ball joint (includes boot, grease fitting, castle nut & cotter pin)
4 90000516 Inner bushing sleeve - .5” I.D. x .75” O.D. x 2.375” long
8 70010759 Delrin bushing half – 1.5” O.D.
4 90002062 Aluminum spacers – shock to lower arm
Hardware:
2 99501024 ½-13 x 3 ¼” Gr.5 bolt Shockwave to lower arm
4 99501005 ½”-13 x 3 ½” Gr. 5 bolt Lower arm to frame
6 99502001 ½”-13 Nylok nut Shockwave to lower arm / Lower arm to frame
Installation Instructions
3. Swing the lower StrongArm up to
the Shockwave and secure with the ½”
x 3 ¼” bolt and Nylok nut, an aluminum
spacer must be installed on each side
of the bearing.
4. Slide the ball joint boot over the
stud, then push the stud up through the
spindle. Secure w/ the new castle nut
and cotter pin supplied.
5. Grease the ball joints.
1. After removing the factory lower
control arm, clean the bushing
mounting surfaces on the frame and
lubricate with lithium grease.
2. Fasten the lower arm to the frame
with the ½” x 3 ½” bolts and Nylok nuts
supplied.
Note: On some cars the frame
brackets may be pinched and will need
to be spread back apart to allow
bushing to slide in.
Driver Side
Item #
Description
Qty.
1.
Passenger side arm
1
1.
Driver side arm
1
2.
Inner bushing sleeve
4
3.
Delrin bushing half
8
4.
Ball joint
8
5.
1/2”-13 Nylok Nut
6
6.
1/2”-13 x 3 ¼” bolt
2
7.
1/2"-13 x 3 ½” bolt
4
8.
Aluminum bearing spacer
4
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11223699
64-72 GM “A” Body Upper StrongArms
Components:
1 90002388 Drivers side arm
1 90002389 Passenger side arm
2 90000908 Ball joint (includes boot, grease fitting, castle nut & cotter pin)
2 90000914 Caster Adjustable Cross shaft
2 70010826 Delrin Bushing – no ledge
2 70010827 Delrin Bushing – small ledge
4 70010759 Delrin Bushing – outer
4 70010883 Zero Offset Caster Slugs
Hardware:
4 99163001 Stainless Washer Cross shaft to bushing
4 99622005 5/8” SAE crimp locking nuts Cross shaft to bushing
1. On some cars, to remove the upper
control arm you must remove the bolts,
which are pressed into the frame. We
made this slide hammer adapter (a nut
with a piece of angle iron welded to it)
to aid in removing the bolts.
2. Fasten the upper arm to the frame
using the factory hardware. Reinstall
the current alignment shims, but
vehicle must be realigned. This arm
was designed with an extra 2 degrees
of positive caster with the centered
caster slugs. Additional caster slugs
are available if more or less caster is
desired. By changing the caster slugs
you can achieve the caster setting you
are wanting without having to run a lot
of shims. Caster is explained of the
next page.
3. Drop ball joint down through upper
arm. Slide ball joint boot over stud,
then place boot retainer over the boot.
Clamp assembly tight w/ the hardware
supplied.
4. Fasten the ball joint to the spindle
w/ the new castle nut and cotter pin
supplied.
5. Tighten the cross shaft nuts enough
to create drag on the delrin bushings,
the arm should still move.
6. Lubricate the ball joint w/ standard
grease.
These Strong Arms come equipped with a changeable caster slug setup. This allows you to add or
remove caster from the front suspension, if desired. The caster slugs that come in the kit are setup to
put the control arm in the centered position, which is approximately 3 degrees of caster. The caster
slugs allow you to add or remove caster without having to use a stack of shims. If more or less caster
is desired, optional caster slugs can be purchased from your Ridetech dealer or Ridetech.
Caster Explained:
To understand caster you need to picture an imaginary line that runs through the upper ball joint and
extends through the lower ball joint. From the side view the imaginary line will tilt forward or
backward. The tilting of this imaginary line is defined as caster.
Caster is measured in degrees by using a caster camber gauge. If the imaginary line described above
tilts towards the back of the car, at the top, then you will have positive caster. If the imaginary line tilts
forward then you would have negative caster.
Positive caster provides the directional stability in your car. Too much positive caster will make the
steering effort difficult. Power steering will allow you to run more positive caster. Negative caster
requires less steering effort but can cause the car to wander down the highway.
Driver Side – Bottom View
Item #
Description
Qty.
1.
1/4"-28 x 7/8” hex bolt
8
2.
1/4"-28 nut
8
3.
Ball joint
2
4.
Inner Delrin bushing no ledge
2
5.
Outer Delrin bushing
4
6.
Caster Adjustable Cross shaft
2
7.
Stainless washer
4
8.
5/8”-18 lock nut
4
9.
Caster Slug
4
10.
Inner Delrin bushing w/ledge
2
11.
Passenger side arm
1
11.
Driver side arm
1
Drivers StrongArm
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
11009300 GM “A” & “F” Body Tall Spindles
2 Tall Spindles
Hardware:
Lower steering arm bolts
(4) 1/2NFx 2 1/2” flathead socket head bolts with Nyloc nuts
Lower caliper bracket bolts
(2) 1/2NFx 2” flathead socket head bolts with Nyloc nuts (Wilwood and Baer Brake kits)
(2) 1/2NFx 2” Grade 8 hex head bolts (use with stock stamped ½” thick caliper brackets)
INSTRUCTIONS FOR Ridetech Tall SPINDLES
These spindles will fit ’67-69 Camaro, ’64-’72 Chevelle, and ’68-’74 Nova. They will provide a 2”
drop, and are taller than stock to improve the car’s cornering ability. The raised upper ball joint will
cause the tires to lean into the corner, like a motorcycle, rather than outboard as the shorter stock
spindles do. This camber action change also raises the roll center for less body roll, and transfer the
car’s center of gravity inboard in the turn as well. You will see an appreciable improvement in
handling. Standard size anti sway bars will work well with those improvements, without the need for
monster sway bars that can cause a harsh ride.
The spindles are modeled after stock disc brake spindles and will accept any disc brake set up
designed for those. If your car came with drum brakes, be sure to swap to the appropriate disc brake
master cylinder and valving. We have test fitted ECI, Wilwood, Baer, Aerospace, and stock GM kits.
The only modification we discovered to be necessary was a small trim on the bottom of the stamped
¼” steel caliper bracket that holds the caliper. It is an area that is not stressed and will not cause any
loss of strength. There are variations among the various reproduction the shaft to be flipped in it’s
bushings for brackets, so the trim will be seen only on some of those.
Stock stamped control arms will accept these spindles, as will any aftermarket arms we have seen.
Our own tubular control arms have the upper ball joint plates rotated slightly for better ball joint angles
on lowered cars. We also set the ball joint ¾” to the rear of the car to allow more aggressive positive
caster settings, as well as to compensate for the normal forward rake seen on hot rods. The upper
control arms shaft has a 3/16” offset, allowing the shaft to be rotated in it’s bushings for a 3/8” net
change in the upper arm’s effective length. That design was pioneered by the MOOG company, as
many stock autos suffer from a sagged cross member, making it difficult to obtain good alignment
numbers. We suggest the alignment be done with 1/8” toe in, ½ degree positive camber, and 3
degrees positive caster with power steering, 2 degrees manual.
It is important to be sure you have the proper steering arms. Many cars were updated to disc brakes
in the past by using disc brake and spindle assemblies from a donor car. However, the Chevelle
steering arms are front steer, and the tie rod is roughly the same height as the lower ball joint. The
Camaro and Nova arms are rear steer, with the outer tie rod end much lower than the ball joint. If the
incorrect arms are used, the incorrect height tie rod end will cause major bump steer problems. Our
testing of prototype versions of these spindles revealed that a small additional lowering of the
mounting holes for the steering arms was necessary to remove the small amount of factory
bumpsteer, and to account for the changes made by the taller spindle. We included that
enhancement in the production version of your new dropped spindles.
Disassembly of the ball joints from the spindles can be eased by making the simple tool shown in the
photo below. A pair of 1 ½” long bolts are threaded into a matching hex coupler. The ball joint cotter
pins are removed, and the hex nuts loosened a couple turns. Place the tool between the ball joint
studs, and turn a bolt to expand the tool, gently popping the ball joint studs loose. If your ball joint
boots are torn, as often happens when a pickle fork is used to separate the ball joints, NAPA has
replacements. The best way to remove the outer tie rod pivot is to loosen the hex nut, and then rap
the steering arm boss with a hammer. Tie rod ends pullers are also available if you want to be more
gentle on the parts. Do NOT hammer on the tie rod stud itself! Be sure to leave the shock absorber
in place to control the spring and prevent it jumping out.
Note: If using a factory style
stamped caliper bracket, the bracket
may need to be trimmed. The dust
shield may also need to be modified.
If you remove the calipers but leave
the hoses attached, supporting them
to avoid stressing the hoses, you
won’t even need to rebleed the
brakes!
Reattach the new spindle, being sure to get the castle nuts tight, and install new cotter pins. Attach
the steering arms into the lower holes in the spindles using the 4 supplied 1/2NFx2 1/2” long flathead
bolts and Nyloc nuts supplied. The 1/2NFx 2” long flat head bolts and nyloc nuts we supply are for
use with Wilwood and Baer brake kit lower bracket bolts. The 1/2NFx2” hex head bolts are used with
stock caliper brackets. Reassemble your disc brakes as well. Now would be a good time to clean
and grease the bearings.
BEFORE you try moving the car, pump the brakes to reset the pads to the rotors. Rebleed if
necessary. Have the alignment shop set the car with ½ degree positive camber, 2-3 degrees positive
caster, and 1/8” toe in. We’re sure you’ll be amazed at the difference in handling!
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11226109
64-72 GM “A” Body Rear NA CoilOver Kit
Shock Assembly:
2 24059999 5” stroke non adjustable shock
2 90002021 1.7” eye non adjustable
4 90001994 .625” I.D. bearing
8 90001995 Bearing snap ring
Components:
2 59120225 Coil spring – 12” long / 225 # rate
2 90002222 Spring retainer kit
8 90002043 Aluminum spacer - .5” I.D.
4 70010828 Delrin Spring Washer
2 90002327 Upper shock bracket
1 90002224 Driver side lower ShockWave bracket
1 90002223 Passenger side lower ShockWave bracket
Hardware:
4 99311001 5/16”-18 x 1” Gr. 5 bolt Upper bracket to frame
4 99312001 5/16”-18 Nylok nut Upper bracket to frame
8 99313002 5/16” SAE flat washer Upper bracket to frame
2 99501027 1/2"-13 x 3 ¾” SAE bolt ShockWave bracket to trailing arm bracket
4 99501002 1/2"-13 x 1 ½” SAE bolt ShockWave bracket to factory shock bracket
4 99501003 1/2"-13 x 2 ½” SAE bolt ShockWave to upper and lower bracket
10 99502001 1/2"-13 SAE Nylok nut Lower ShockWave mount and mounting
10 99503001 1/2" SAE flat washer Lower ShockWave mount
4. Remove the lower trailing arm
mounting bolt. (Do one side at a
time to keep the axle from rotating).
5. Install the longer ½” x 3 ¾” bolt
through the lower trailing arm from
the outside in. Install the lower
bracket over the bolt and secure with
a ½” Nylok nut and flat washer.
6. The lower bolt hole in the back of
the bracket will align with the factory
shock stud hole. Use a ½” x 1 ½”
bolt, Nylok nut and flat washers.
7. The upper hole must be drilled
with a ½” bit. The edge of the
bracket should be parallel to the axle
bracket. Use an centering punch
and 1/8” bit to drill a pilot hole. A ½”
x 1 ½” bolt, Nylok nut and flat
washers will be used here as well.
Installation Instructions
1. Raise and safely support the vechile by the frame rails.
2. Using a jack, slightly raise the axle approximately 1”. Remove the shock absorbers.
3. Lower the axle down enough to remove the coil springs.
4. The exhaust tail pipes may need to be removed and/or modified for ShockWave installation.
9. Assemble the spring onto the
Coilover. Assembly is explained on
the next page.
10. Fasten the CoilOver to the upper
bracket using a ½” x 2 ½” bolt and
Nylok nut. ½” I.D. aluminum
spacers must be installed on each
side of the bearing.
11. Fasten the CoilOver to the lower
bracket using a ½” x 2 ½” bolt and
Nylok nut. ½” I.D. aluminum spacers
must be installed on each side of the
bearing.
12. Ride height on this CoilOver is
14.5” from center eye to center eye.
8. Fasten the new upper shock
bracket into the factory shock
location using the 5/16” x 1” bolts, flat
washers and Nylok nuts supplied.
Note: Position the bracket to offset
the shock toward the center of the
car.
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11236699
64-67 GM A-Body Rear Upper StrongArms
Components:
2 90001116 Upper StrongArm (Set to 12.75”)
2 90001589 Kevlar lined Heim end
4 90002065 Aluminum spacers for Heim end
Hardware:
2 99752004 ¾” SAE Jam nut Heim end
4 99501006 ½” x 3 ½” USS Gr. 8 bolt StrongArms
4 99502001 ½” USS Gr. 8 Nut StrongArms
1. The length of the upper bar
should be set from the factory at
12.75” center to center. Ensure that
the jam nut is tight.
2. Using the ½” x 3 1/2” bolt and
Nylok nut supplied, fasten the heim
end to the frame bracket. An
aluminum spacer must be installed
on each side of the Heim end.
3. Fasten the other end of the bar to
the axle using a ½” x 3 ½” bolt and
Nylok nut.
Note: Inspect the rubber bushing in
the axle for wear or cracked.
Replace with factory replacement
bushing if needed.
Installation Instructions
350 S. St. Charles St. Jasper, In. 47546
Ph. 812.482.2932 Fax 812.634.6632
www.ridetech.com
Part # 11224499
64-72 GM “A” Body Rear Lower StrongArms
Components:
2 90001026 Lower StrongArm – WW 22”
8 90001089 Poly bushing half – .75” I.D. x 1.5” O.D. x 1.125” long
4 90000516 Bushing sleeve - .5” I.D. x .75” O.D. x 2.375” long
2 90001092 Tube of Lithium grease – to lubrication bushing mounting surfaces
Hardware:
4 99431003 7/16” x 3” USS bolt Swaybar to lower bars
4 99432001 7/16” USS Nylok nut Swaybar to lower bars
8 99433002 7/16” SAE flat washer Swaybar to lower bars
4 99501006 ½” x 3 ½” USS Gr. 8 bolt StrongArms to frame
4 99502001 ½” USS Gr. 8 Nylok nut StrongArms to frame
1. Remove the sway bar (if
equipped) and factory lower trailing
arm. Do one side at a time to keep
the axle from rotating.
2. Clean bushing mounting surfaces
on frame. Lubricate w/ lithium
grease supplied.
2. Attach to front on the lower
StrongArm to the frame using the ½”
x 3 ½” bolts and Nylok nuts supplied.
3. This arm has holes in the tube for
sway bar attachment. Mount the bar
so that the holes are closest to the
axle. New 7/16” x 3” bolts are
supplied to reattach the sway bar.
4. Attach to rear of the lower
StrongArm to the frame using the ½”
x 3 ½” bolts and Nylok nuts supplied.
Note: These polyurethane bushing
are lubricated at the factory w/ lithium
grease.
Note: Tighten the bolts enough to
remove any lateral movement and
apply moderate drag on bushings.
Over-tightening can cause excessive
suspension bind.
Installation Instructions
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