Re-Verber-Ray DX, DX-2, XTS Troubleshooting Manual

TUBE HEATER

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE

MODELS: DX, DX-2 & XTS

THESE HEATERS MUST BE INSTALLED AND SERVICED BY TRAINED GAS INSTALLATION AND SERVICE PERSONNEL ONLY. READ AND UNDERSTAND ALL INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO INSTALL, OPERATE OR SER VICE THE DETROIT RADIANT PRODUCTS COMP ANY HEATER. FAILURE TO COMPLY WITH THESE WARNINGS AND INSTRUCTIONS, AND THOSE ON THE HEATER, COULD RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY, DEATH, FIRE, ASPHYXIATION AND/OR PROPERTY DAMAGE. RETAIN THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FUTURE REFERENCE.

CAUTION! Heater may be hot. Do not store or use gasoline or other flammable vapors and liquids in the vicinity of this or any other appliance. Note presence of flammable gas and electrical shock hazard.

WARNING! Extinguish open flame while servicing heaters. Test for gas leaks with soap and water solution only. Wear safety glasses while servicing unit.

FOR YOUR SAFETY!

IF YOU SMELL GAS:

1. Open windows.

2. Do not touch electrical switches.

3. Extinguish any open flame.

4. Immediately call your gas supplier.

Approval Standards and Certifications

Detroit Radiant Products units comply with or are certified by the following Organizations or Standards:

- American National Standards (ANSI Z83.6)

- Occupational Safety and Health Act (OSHA)

- American Gas Association (AGA)

- International Approval Services (IAS)

IMPORTANT: Any alteration of the system or of the factory-authorized components specified either in this manual or by Detroit Radiant Products Company voids all certification and warranties.

SHUTDOWN INSTRUCTIONS!

1. Open electrical circuit.

2. Rotate heater’s manual gas valve knob to “OFF” position.

Detroit Radiant Products Company

21400 Hoover Road • Warren • Michigan • 48089 • (586) 756-0950 • Fax: (586) 756-2626

http://www .reverberray.com email: sales@detr oitradiant.com

Tools Recommended to Troubleshoot Heaters

-Digital Multimeter - Used for troubleshooting & testing electrical circuits.

(Part 1A783 from Grainger)

-Flame Rectification Meter - Used for testing rectification of flame with the digital multimeter.

(Channel Products)

-Digital Manometer Kit - Used for taking gas pressure, digitally.

(Part 100281-21 from Dwyer Instruments)

-Liquid Manometer Kit - Used for taking gas pressure, via a liquid manometer.

(Part 115010-00 from Dwyer Instruments)

-Digital Hygro-Thermometer (Amprobe #TH-2) - Reads temperature from -10 to 50

(Part 1P124 from Grainger)

-Incline Manometer - Used for measuring pressure inside burner box. Provides data for pressure switch.

(Cat# 172 from Dwyer Instruments)

-1/4” Nut Driver - Can be used to remove screws holding top on.

(Part 5X509 from Grainger)

C and relative humidity from 5-95%.

-Pliers 8” - Tool for burner box access.

(Part 6C183 from Grainger)

-Pipe Wrench 8” - Can be used to disassemble gas train assembly.

(Part 4A497 from Grainger)

-Ratcheting Box Wrench - Can be used to remove orifice and bolts. (size 7/16” and 3/8”)

(Part 1AMW9 from Grainger)

-6” Steel Rule - Used for measuring air orifice size.

(Part 6C289 from Grainger)

-Terminals 1/4” Female - Extra female spade terminals.

-Barb Fitting - Fitting to take gas pressure at the valve.

-Vinyl Tubing - Tubing for pressure measurements. (size 5/16” x 3’)

-Jumpers/Connectors - Used to jump out the pressure switches.

-Self Tapping Screws - Extra Screws.

-Drill Bits 1-60, A-Z - Drill Bits 1-60, A-Z, for measuring gas orifice size (DMS).

-Manuals - DX, DX-2 or XTS Series Installation, Operation & Maintenance manuals (IOM’s).

Theory of Operation

Starting Circuit

When voltage is applied to L1 and L2, a circuit is completed from L1 via the blower motor to L2. The blower fan is mounted in the control box and rated to supply sufficient air combustion.

Air pressure generated by the blower will cause the normally open burner pressure switch No. 1 to close. Another circuit is completed from L1 to the hot surface ignition control and back to L2. There is a five second delay , then the glo-bar is powered. After the glo-bar has been powered for 45 seconds, the control causes the gas valve to open and initiates the ignition trial. Power to the glo-bar is shut off during the last two or three seconds of the ignition trial.

Running Circuit

After ignition, the flame rod monitors the flame. As long as a flame is present, the valve is held open. If the flame is lost, the control acts to close the valve within one second, and a new trial sequence identical to that at start-up is initiated. If proof of flame is not established within 8.5 seconds, the unit will lock out. If lockout occurs, the control can reset by briefly interrupting the power source.

Note: The DX-2 Series heaters have added indicator lights to assist in troubleshooting and ignition sequence.

DX/XTS Series Heaters

DX-2 Series Heaters

must be replaced.

The fan is faulty and

YES

connections.

Repair wiring or hose

WARNING: Bypassing any switch

is for testing purposes only. Do not

leave switch bypassed during normal

operation or heater’s built-in safety

mechanisms will be compromised.

Replace the switch after verifying the

following:

* Baffle(s) is in the tube(s) farthest

from the burner.

* Heater, fan blower, squirrel cage,

intake and exhaust are clean and free

from dirt and obstructions.

* The 4” air intake pipe does not

exceed 20 feet and/or 2 elbows.

* There is not a negative pressure

experienced at the area of air intake

(i.e. attic space, high-winds, very tight

building).

please address the problem.

If any of the previous were occurring,

Is there 120V

Is the blower

YES

Is the power at the

DX & XTS Troubleshooting Flow Chart (models w/out indicator lights)

coming to the fan?

obstructed?

heater 120V?

Correct wiring.

YES

& lubricate fan.

Remove obstruction

electrical problem.

Find the source of the

NONO

Replace ignitor.

Is the resistance through the

YES

Is the ignitor

physically damaged?

YES

Are they ok?

ignitor 45-400S?

Check for loose wiring or restrictions in

hose connections to the pressure switch.

YES

120V?

ignition sequence (usually 30-45

Check voltage at ignitor during the

seconds after power to heater). Is it

YES

Is the inlet or the outlet of the unit

obstructed? I.e. ice, birds nest, dirt, etc.

YES

glow red?

switch, one at a time. (Be sure to

The heater is equipped with 2 safety

the blower compartment is a normally

pressure switches. The burner switch in

Remove obstruction.

closed switch. Temporarily place

jumpers across the terminals of each

open switch and the exhaust switch in

the gas valve compartment is a normally

for 120V going from switch to

both pressure switches and check

T emporarily place jumpers across

reinstall the cover.) Does the ignitor

YES

circuit board. (Be sure to

entering the circuit board?

reinstall the cover.) Is there 120V

Replace circuit board.

or replace wiring.

Faulty wiring. Repair

YES

Does the fan

Turn up Thermostat

blower turn on?

YES

Does the ignitor

warm up and glow red?

only?

YES

circuit board.

Check to make sure

flame sensor wire is

OK and then replace

than 30 Volts DC?

With voltmeter, check DC

voltage at flame rod. Is it greater

Possibly, the circuit

should be replaced.

board and/or wiring

harness is faulty . These

Correct

problem.

Replace

gas valve.

YES

and flame rod sensor located next to the glo-

bar. Other models have a glo-bar ignitor only,

Correct

problem.

purged of air.

Certain models have a separate glo-bar ignitor

Make sure gas lines were

YES

which acts as both an ignitor and flame sensor.

YES

Is the heater properly grounded?

within minimum and maximum

Check to make sure gas pressure is

rating label. Is gas pressure OK?

inputs, as indicated on AGA burner

YES

weak. Check to make sure

YES

Sensing rod is faulty or flame is

Does model in question have glo-bar ignitor

proper parts.

Consult factory for

Correct

problem.

Correct problem.

Is the heater’s polarity correct?

YES

burner rating label and then

replace sensing rod if needed.

pressure as indicated on AGA

heater is operating at proper gas

exhaust.

switch may be

Exhaust pressure

restriction in the

faulty or there is a

YES

120V to valve?

during valve opening

Test for 120V at valve

YES

After ignitor is

the heater). Is there

period (usually 30-45

seconds after power to

YES

valve open?

within minimum and maximum

Check to make sure gas pressure is

rating label. Is gas pressure OK?

inputs, as indicated on AGA burner

warmed up, does gas

an ON position?

Is the gas cock in

YES

light?

Does the burner

come on and then

shut off?

approx. 8 seconds and then

Does the burner stay on for

YES

stay on?

Does the burner

call for heat ends?

Does heater stay on until

(1 or 2 seconds).

turn off immediately

Check to make sure that the pressure

* High winds

heater to shut down:

* Improper grounding

The following can cause the

* Taking combustion air from

YES

rating label. Is gas pressure OK?

is within minimum and maximum

inputs as indicated on the AGA burner

the attic

* Dirty environment

* Fluctuating gas pressure

* Baffle not located properly

Troubleshooting ends.

Replace burned out light.

YES

must be replaced.

The fan is faulty and

YES

Is there 120V

coming to the fan?

obstructed?

Is the blower

Correct wiring.

YES

& lubricate fan.

Remove obstruction

Does the light energize?

Replace the switch after verifying the

following:

* Baffle(s) is in the tube(s) farthest

from the burner.

switches. The burner switch in the blower

The heater is equipped with 2 safety pressure

compartment is a normally open switch and the

jumpers across the terminals of each switch,

a normally closed switch. Temporarily place

exhaust switch in the gas valve compartment is

one at a time. (Be sure to reinstall the cover.)

YES

Repair wiring.

Check for loose wiring or

pressure switch. Are they ok?

resistance in hose connection to

ignitor 45-400S.

Is resistance through the

YES

(usually 30-45 seconds

Check voltage at ignitor

during ignition sequence

please address the problem.

* Heater, fan blower , squirrel cage,

intake and exhaust are clean and free

from dirt and obstructions.

* The 4” air intake pipe does not

exceed 20 feet and/or 2 elbows.

* There is not a negative pressure

experienced at the area of air intake

(i.e. attic space, high-winds, very tight

Replace ignitor.

after power to the

heater). Is it 120V?

Replace circuit board.

If any of the previous were occurring,

building).

be faulty and need to be replaced.

The circuit board &/or wiring harness may

WARNING: Bypassing any switch

is for testing purposes only. Do not

leave switch bypassed during normal

operation or heater’s built-in safety

Replace faulty light.

Replace valve.

Correct problem.

YES

mechanisms will be compromised.

YES

DX-2 Troubleshooting Flow Chart (models with indicator lights)

Turn up Thermostat

heater 120V?

Is the power at the

turn on?

Does the fan

electrical problem.

Find the source of the

Is the light

YES

of the unit obstructed

Is the inlet or the outlet

(i.e. ice, birds nest, dirt)?

Remove obstruction.

so, replace.

burnt out? If

YES

light energize?

Does the switch

damaged?

Is the ignitor physically

up and glow red?

Does the ignitor warm

YES

ok?

all?

Replace ignitor.

Does burner ignite at

YES

come on?

Does valve light

min. & max. inputs as indicated on

AGA burner rating label. Are both

Check to make sure pressure is within

Does valve open?

only?

YES

circuit board.

ok and then replace

Check to make sure

flame sensor wire is

than 30 Volts DC?

With voltmeter, check DC

voltage at flame rod. Is it greater

Possibly , the circuit

should be replaced.

board and/or wiring

harness is faulty . These

120V to valve?

during valve opening

Test for 120V at valve

the heater). Is there

period (usually 30-45

seconds after power to

YES

Correct

problem.

Replace

gas valve.

YES

and flame rod sensor located next to the glo-

bar. Other models have a glo-bar ignitor only,

Correct

problem.

purged of air.

Certain models have a separate glo-bar ignitor

Make sure gas lines were

YES

which acts as both an ignitor and flame sensor.

YES

Is the heater properly grounded?

within minimum and maximum

Check to make sure gas pressure is

rating label. Is gas pressure ok?

inputs, as indicated on AGA burner

YES

an ON position?

Is the gas cock in

Does the burner stay on for

approx. 8 seconds and then

weak. Check to make sure

YES

Sensing rod is faulty or flame is

Does model in question have glo-bar ignitor

proper parts.

Consult factory for

Correct

Exhaust pressure

problem.

Correct problem.

Is the heater’s polarity correct?

Does the burner

come on and then

turn off immediately

YES

(1 or 2 seconds).

Check to make sure that the pressure

is within minimum and maximum

shut off?

burner rating label and then

replace sensing rod if needed.

pressure as indicated on AGA

heater is operating at proper gas

exhaust.

switch may be

restriction in the

faulty or there is a

YES

rating label. Is gas pressure ok?

inputs as indicated on the AGA burner

YES

valve open?

After ignitor is

within minimum and maximum

Check to make sure gas pressure is

rating label. Is gas pressure ok?

inputs, as indicated on AGA burner

warmed up, does gas

YES

ignite?

Does the burner

YES

stay on?

Does the burner

heater to shut down:

* Improper grounding

The following can cause the

call for heat ends?

YES

Does heater stay on until

the attic

* High winds

* Dirty environment

* Fluctuating gas pressure

* Taking combustion air from

* Baffle not located properly

Troubleshooting ends.

DX & XTS

Series Heater

DX-2

Series

Flame Rod

Heater

Burner

Fan

Burner Pressure Switch

Exhaust Pressure Switch

Glo-Bar Ignitor

Glo-Bar Cover

Circuit Board

Flame Rod

Gas Valve

Exhaust Pressure Switch

Glo-Bar Ignitor

Burner Pressure Switch

Circuit Board

Gas Valve Indicator Light

Pressure Switches Indicator Light

Fan

Glo-Bar Cover

Burner

Gas Valve

PICTURE 1

PICTURE 3PICTURE 2

Burner Pressure Switch

PICTURE 4

1) 125M-200M - Natural or Propane

2) 100M & below - Natural

3) 100M & below - Propane

Gas Burners

Circuit Board

PICTURE 6PICTURE 5

Exhaust Pressure Switch

PICTURE 7

Glo-Bar & Flame Rod

Fan

Air Intake Collar & Orifice

Manifold Tap

w/ Barb fitting

inserted

Gas Valve

PICTURE 9PICTURE 8

Gas Valve

Pressure Switches

Switch & Valve Indicator Lights

This symbol appears when directions indicate the presence of flammable gas.

This symbol appears when directions indicate the presence an electrical shock hazard.

GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

SYMPTOM EXPLANATION SOLUTION

Thermostat closed, fan does not operate.

Page 11

1. Blown fuse.

2. Faulty thermostat.

3. Loose or disconnected wire.

4. Faulty fan.

1. Replace.

2. Replace.

3. Repair as required.

4. Lubricate, repair or replace.

Thermostat closed. Fan operates. No glo-bar energization.

Page 12-13Page 12-13Page 14Page 14Page 15Page 15Page 16

Thermostat Closed. Fan operates. No Switch Lights.

Note: If Glo-Bar is energized, the switch light is faulty.

Thermostat closed. Fan and glo-bar operate. After 45 second glo-bar shuts off. No ignition.

Thermostat closed, fan operates. Switch light is energized. No globar energization.

1. Loose or disconnected wire.

2. Box lid or gasket not in place.

3. Plugged pressure switch lines.

4. Plugged inlet or restricted exhaust vent.

5. Baffle location incorrect.

6. Faulty pressure switches.

7. Faulty circuit control.

8. Faulty glo-bar.

1. Loose or disconnected wire.

2. Box lid or gasket not in place.

3. Plugged pressure switch lines.

4. Plugged inlet or restricted exhaust vent.

5. Baffle location incorrect.

6. Faulty pressure switches.

1. Closed gas supply .

2. Dirty or restricted gas orifice.

3. Faulty valve. Disconnected valve wire.

4. Inlet pressure too high - (max pressure = 14”).

1. Faulty glo-bar.

2. Faulty circuit control.

1. Repair as required.

2. Put in place.

3. Clean as necessary .

4. Remove foreign matter.

5. Reposition baffle.

6. Replace only - do not adjust.

7. Replace circuit control.

8. Replace glo-bar.

1. Repair as required.

2. Put in place.

3. Clean as necessary .

4. Remove foreign matter.

5. Reposition baffle.

6. Replace only - Do not adjust.

1. Open all gas connections.

2. Remove and clean with a soft cloth.

3. Replace valve or reconnect wires.

4. Adjust pressure.

1. Replace.

2. Replace.

Thermostat closed. Fan and globar operate. Ignition occurs. Burner cycles off and will not recycle.

Thermostat closed, fan operates. Switch light is energized. Glo-Bar is energized. No Valve light.

Note: If heater fires, the valve light is faulty .

Thermostat closed. Fan and globar operate. Ignition occurs. Burner cycles off. Burner recycles.

Thermostat closed, fan operates. Switch light, Glo-Bar and Valve light is energized. After 45 seconds, glo-bar shuts off. No

Page 16

Ignition.

1. Polarity reversed.

2. No electrical ground.

3. Faulty circuit control.

4. Low gas pressure.

5. Flame rod faulty .

1. Disconnected valve wire.

2. Faulty circuit control.

1. Low gas pressure.

2. Baffle improperly positioned.

3. Faulty exhaust pressure switch.

4. Restricted flue vent.

1. Closed gas supply .

2. Dirty or restricted gas orifice.

3. Faulty valve or disconnected wires.

4. Inlet pressure too high (max. pressure = 14”).

1. Correct polarity.

2. Connect electrical ground with junction box.

3. Replace.

4. Provide required gas pressure.

5. Replace.

1. Reconnect wire.

2. Replace circuit control.

1. Provide required gas pressure.

2. Reposition baffle.

3. Replace.

4. Remove foreign matter.

1. Open all gas connections.

2. Remove and clean with a soft cloth.

3. Replace valve or reconnect wires.

4. Lower inlet pressure.

Refers to DX-2 Series Heaters

with Indicator Lights

Refers to DX or XTS Series Heaters

without Indicator Lights

Refers to all Heaters

GENERAL TROUBLESHOOTING CHART

SYMPTOM EXPLANATION SOLUTION

Loss of heater efficiency .

Page 16

Radiant tube leaking burnt gases.

Page 17Page 17Page 17Page 18

Condensation.

Tube bowing.

Tube corroding.

Page 17

1. Low gas pressure.

2. Dirty or restricted orifice.

3. Foreign matter inside burner assembly.

4. Reflector is sooted and has lost its reflective ability .

5. Clogged fan blower.

1. Loose tube connections.

2. Holes or cracks in radiant tubes.

1. Stack length too long.

2. Light gauge flue stack used.

3. Contaminated combustion air.

1. Insufficient combustion air .

2. Contaminated combustion air.

3. Overfired.

4. Heater’s tubes are unable to expand.

1. Contaminated combustion air.

1. Provide required gas pressure.

2. Remove and clean with a soft cloth.

3. Clean as necessary .

4. Clean with aluminum cleaner and soft cloth.

5. Clean.

1. Assure that tube is fully inserted into flared end and properly clamped.

2. Replace.

1. Shorten stack.

2. Minimum of 26 gauge vent pipe is required.

3. Provide fresh air inlet duct.

1. Provide 2 sq. in. of free air per 5000 BTU/H of input.

2. Provide fresh air inlet duct.

3. Check gas pressure and orifice size.

4. Remount heater with 16” section of flex.

1. Provide fresh air inlet duct.

7 8

Visual inspection of burner operation not possible.

Page 18

Stack sooting.

Odor or fumes in space.

Page 18

“How To” Instructions

Page 19

Refers to DX-2 Series Heaters

with Indicator Lights

1. Dirty or sooted sight glass.

2. Unit mounted upside down.

1. Insufficient combustion air .

2. Improper gas.

1. Vaporized solvents decomposing when contacting radiant tubes.

2. Evaporation of oils/solvents at floor level.

3. Fork lifts.

4. Loose tube connections.

inlet pressure, manifold reading, proper polarity, positive ground, negative pressure, bypass pressure switches

1. Remove and clean or replace.

2. Mount correctly.

1. Provide 1 sq. in. of free air for every 5000 BTU/H of input.

2. Correct with proper gas input.

1. Address ventilation concerns.

2. Address ventilation concerns.

3. Address ventilation concerns/repair.

4. Tighten tube clamps to 50-100 ft. lb.

Refers to DX or XTS Series Heaters

without Indicator Lights

Refers to all Heaters

1 - Thermostat Closed, Fan Does Not Operate

If the thermostat is closed (on) and heater does not operate, check the following:

1.1

Check the building’s main circuit breaker or fuse box. The problem may be a blown fuse or circuit.

1.2

Thermostat Operation: Verify the thermostat is allowing power to be sent to the heater. Confirm by measuring the voltage to the heater using a volt meter (See picture below). If there is no power , the problem is in the thermostat and it should be replaced. If power is at the heater, continue on to the next step.

1.3

Check the electrical connections leading to the fan. Be sure that the wire nuts are tight.

1.4

Using the voltmeter, check to be sure power is going to the fan (pg. 8, pic. 5). If there is power , try cleaning and oiling (SAE-20 oil) the motor. If fan still not working, it is faulty.

2 x 4 Junction Box

Refer to warnings on cover prior to servicing the unit. Bypass safety pressur e switches for supervised troubleshooting purposes only.

*Do not leave switches bypassed while the heater is unattended or for normal operations.

Consult Detroit Radiant Products for further technical information

Picture 1.2

2 - Thermostat Closed, Fan Operates, No Glo-Bar Energization

(This step is applicable for all models)

2.1

Locate any disconnected or loose wires and repair.

2.2

The normally open Burner Pressure Switch is located on the fan side of the heater (pg. 8, pic. 1 ). This switch must be closed before the glo-bar can be energized. *Bypass this switch (pg. 19, #6) to check for proper function. Once bypassed, reinstall the cover and test the heater. If it works, there is a problem with the burner pressure switch or what it is sensing, and you should continue with step 2.2.1. If bypassing this pressure switch does not make the heater work, continue with step 2.3.

2.2.1

Be sure lid is on correctly and gasket is intact.

2.2.2

Make sure the clear vinyl tube that bleeds pressure to the outside of the heater is clean and clear of obstructions.

2.2.3

Make sure the heater’s vent cap is in place and in good condition. Also, check for obstructions within the cap.

NOTE: Excessive winds may cause properly operating safety pressure switches to shut down the heater. Heaters ducted through (on either the intake or exhaust sides) the roof may be deprived of the air necessary to pressurize the burner box. This “chimney effect” will typically not allow the burner pressure switch to close. Heaters vented through a sidewall may see too much back-pressure, thus opening the exhaust pressure switch. In either case, the caps need to be shielded to lessen the effects of high winds.

2.2.4

Make sure the heater’s baffle is located properly. It should be found at the exhaust end of the emitter tube.

2.2.5

The fan may not be accurately pressurizing the heater. Clean obstructions from the air -intake pipe and cap

(pg. 8, pic. 8). Clean the squirrel cage. Oil the motor (SAE-20). Examine and clean the fan blades (pg. 8, pic. 5). Once the fan is completely clean, retry the heater, without bypassing the Burner Pressure Switch. If the glo-bar is still not energizing, continue with Step 2.2.6.

2.2.6

If steps 2.2.1 - 2.2.4 were performed and the heater still won’t properly function, the burner pressure switch is faulty .

Refer to warnings on cover prior to servicing the unit. Bypass safety pressur e switches for supervised troubleshooting purposes only.

*Do not leave switches bypassed while the heater is unattended or for normal operations.

Consult Detroit Radiant Products for further technical information

2 - Thermostat Closed, Fan Operates, No Glo-Bar Energization (cont.)

(This step is applicable for all models)

2.3 The Exhaust Pressure Switch is located on the valve side of the heater (pg. 8, pic. 4). *Bypass this switch (pg. 19, #6). If the heater works with the exhaust pressure switch bypassed, the problem is with this switch or what

it is sensing and you should continue with step 2.3.1. If bypassing this switch does not cause the heater to work, continue with step 2.4.

2.3.1

Be sure the lid is on correctly and tightly and the gasket is in intact.

2.3.2

Check to make sure the clear vinyl tube that bleeds pressure to the outside of the heater is clean and clear of obstructions.

2.3.3

Clean any obstructions from the emitter tube, exhaust tube and vent cap.

2.3.4

Check to make sure the heater’s baffle is located properly. It should be found at the exhaust end of the emitter tube.

2.3.5

If steps 2.3.1 - 2.3.4 were performed and the heater still won’t properly function, the exhaust pressure switch is faulty .

2.4 (This step is applicable for DX & XTS models only)

Check the Circuit Board (pg. 8, pic. 3). Use a volt meter to ensure that power is actually entering the circuit board. Turn of f the gas to the heater and *bypass both pressure switches (pg. 19, #6), as a heater with no cover will not allow pressure switches to function properly. 120 volts exiting the circuit board indicates that the glo-bar is faulty. If no voltage exits the circuit board, it is faulty.

Refer to warnings on cover prior to servicing the unit. Bypass safety pressur e switches for supervised troubleshooting purposes only.

*Do not leave switches bypassed while the heater is unattended or for normal operations.

Consult Detroit Radiant Products for further technical information

3 - Thermostat Closed, Fan & Glo-Bar Operate. After 45 Seconds Glo-Bar Shuts Off, No Ignition.

(This step is applicable for DX & XTS models only)

3.1 Be sure that the gas valves inside and outside of the heater are turned to the ON position.

3.2

Locate and confirm that the gas orifice is not plugged with dirt, spider webs or rust.

3.3

Turn off the gas to the heater and *bypass both the Burner & Exhaust Pressure Switches (pg. 19, #6). Test the voltage coming from the Circuit Board to the Gas Valve (pg. 8, pic. 6) using a volt meter. If there is 120 volts, the gas valve is faulty. If there is less than 102 volts or no voltage at all, the circuit board is faulty.

3.4

The inlet pressure entering the system may be too high. The maximum value for both natural and propane is 14” W.C.P. Correct this problem by either adjusting the building’s regulator down to 14” W.C.P. or by using step-down regulators in the building’ s piping system.

NOTE: THE GAS VALVE IS ONLY RATED FOR 1/2 POUND (14 INCHES) OF PRESSURE. IF USING A HIGH-PRESSURE REGULATOR, BE SURE IT IS LOCKING UP PRIOR TO THE INLET PRESSURE REACHING 1/2 POUND.

3 - Thermostat Closed, Fan Operates.

Switches Light is Energized. No Glo-Bar Energization.

(This step is applicable for the DX-2 models only)

Check the Circuit Board (pg. 8, pic. 3). Use a volt meter to measure the voltage the circuit board is sending to the glo-bar. This is done by hooking the voltmeters probes to the black and white wires leading from the circuit board to the glo-bar. If the measurement is 102V or less, the circuit board is faulty. If it measures 120V, the glo-bar is faulty.

NOTE: Do not unplug the glo-bar.

Refer to warnings on cover prior to servicing the unit. Bypass safety pressur e switches for supervised troubleshooting purposes only.

*Do not leave switches bypassed while the heater is unattended or for normal operations.

Consult Detroit Radiant Products for further technical information

4 - Thermostat Closed. Fan & Glo-Bar Operate. Ignition Occurs.

Burner Cycles Off & will not Recycle.

There are two possibilities:

1) The Burner cycles for 8 seconds and shuts off.

4.1 The polarity could be incorrect. Check the systems wiring (pg. 19, #3) (See installation-operation manual wiring diagram).

4.2

The heater senses flame through ground. Therefore, the unit might not be properly grounded. The wiring should be inspected (pg. 19, #4).

4.3

There may be loose connections somewhere within the heater, or, the Circuit Board may be faulty.

4.4

The gas pressure is too low. Check the manifold (section 6.1) pressure (pg. 8, pic. 6 & pg. 19, #2) for appropriate pressure.

4.5 The flame rod might be faulty (pg. 8, pic. 7). Check for visible damage.

NOTE: IF THE PROBLEM IS EITHER THE CIRCUIT BOARD OR THE FLAME ROD, ONE OR BOTH MIGHT NEED REPLACING.

2) The Burner cycles for more or less than 8 seconds and shuts off.

4.6

Follow steps 4.1 - 4.5.

4.7 The Exhaust Pressure Switch is located on the valve side of the heater (pg. 8, pic. 4). *Bypass this switch

(pg. 19, #6). If the heater works with the exhaust pressure switch bypassed, the problem is with this switch

or what it is sensing and you should continue with step 2.3.1 (located on page 13). If bypassing this switch does not cause the heater to work, continue with step 2.4 (located on page 13).

4 - Thermostat Closed. Fan Operates. Switch Light &

Glo-Bar Energized. No Valve Light.

(This step is applicable for DX-2 models only)

Disconnected Valve Wire - The wire between the circuit board and the gas valve may be disconnected. Inspect and reconnect if necessary .

Faulty Circuit Board - If the valve wire is connected properly, the circuit board is faulty and must be replaced.

NOTE: If the Valve Wire is properly connected and the heater fires, the valve light is faulty.

Refer to warnings on cover prior to servicing the unit. Bypass safety pressur e switches for supervised troubleshooting purposes only.

*Do not leave switches bypassed while the heater is unattended or for normal operations.

Consult Detroit Radiant Products for further technical information

5 - Thermostat Closed. Fan & Glo-Bar Operate. Ignition Occurs.

Burner Cycles Off. Burner Recycles.

(This step is applicable for DX/XTS models only)

Refer to steps 4.6 - 4.7.

5 - Thermostat Closed. Fan Operates. Switch Light, Valve Light & Glo-Bar

Energized. After 45 Secs., Glo-Bar Shuts Off. No Ignition.

(This step is applicable for DX-2 models only)

5.1 Be sure that the gas valves inside and outside of the heater are turned to the ON position.

5.2

Locate and confirm that the gas orifice is not plugged with dirt, spider webs or rust.

5.3 Bypass both the Burner & Exhaust Pressure Switches (pg. 19, #6) and then test the voltage coming from the Circuit Board to the Gas Valve (pg. 8, pic.6) using a volt meter. If there is 120 volts, the gas valve is faulty. If

there is less than 102 volts or no voltage at all, the circuit board is faulty .

5.4

NOTE: THE GAS VALVE IS ONLY RATED FOR 1/2 POUND (14 INCHES) OF PRESSURE. IF USING A HIGH-PRESSURE REGULATOR, BE SURE IT IS LOCKING UP PRIOR TO THE INLET PRESSURE REACHING 1/2 POUND.

6 - Heater’s Efficiency is Lacking

Usually , a heater lacking in efficiency has improper gas pressure, dirty parts or is a misapplication of the heater itself.

6.1

If the manifold pressure is not high enough, (a minimum of 3.5” natural and 10” propane) the heater will not deliver the desired amount of heat. Check the Manifold Pressure (pg. 8, pic. 6 and pg. 19, #1 & #2).

6.2

Locate and confirm the orifice is not plugged with dirt, spider webs or rust.

6.3

Check the burner assembly to make sure it is clear of any obstructions.

6.4

Be sure the reflector is in place and clean. Use a soft cloth and aluminum cleaner to clean the reflector .

6.5

Be sure the fan is clean and able to supply the appropriate amount of air to the heater . Clean any obstructions from the air-intake pipe and cap. Clean the squirrel cage. Oil the motor (SAE-20). Examine and clean the fan blades.

Refer to warnings on cover prior to servicing the unit. Bypass safety pressur e switches for supervised troubleshooting purposes only.

*Do not leave switches bypassed while the heater is unattended or for normal operations.

Consult Detroit Radiant Products for further technical information

7 - Radiant Tube Leaking Burnt Gas

Obstructions in the heater may cause too much heat in a specific point, leading to holes or cracks. These openings can cause burnt gas to leak out. If this problem is occurring, follow these steps:

Carefully inspect the length of all emitter tubes and clamps for any cracks, holes or loose connections. If any part of the tube has an opening, it must be replaced immediately. Also check for blockages in the exhaust and emitter tube.

8 - Condensation is Forming

If condensation is forming anywhere along the length of the emitter or exhaust pipe, check to make sure that it is not excessive in length. Be sure that the heater has the appropriate manifold pressure (see 6.1, 4.4). Confirm the use of adequate vent material (26 gauge minimum is required). Inspect the baffle location (it should be found at the exhaust end of the emitter tube), insulate vent materials, and seal leaks around vent openings. Chemicals burned through the combustion process can alter the exhaust by-products and temperature. See your heater’s manual for air-intake specifications.

9 - Emitter Tube is Bowing

Normal operation of the heater will often cause expansion of the emitter tube. If there is no room for this to occur, the tube will bow. If this is happening, follow steps 9.1 - 9.4.

9.1

Too little air will lead to shorter flame, causing it to burn hotter than normal. Be sure there is nothing blocking the air intake and that the fan is clean (pg. 8, pics. 5 & 8).

9.2

Contaminated combustion air could alter the flame characteristics, overheating the tube and causing it to bow. See your manual for air-intake specifications.

9.3 Too much gas may also overheat the tube and cause it to bow.Check the manifold (see 6.1) pressure (pg. 8, pic. 6).

9.4

If the heater is mounted so that it cannot expand lengthwise (ie. it is cemented into the wall at both ends), add a 16” section of flex on the inlet side of the heater and allow the exhaust to move freely through the wall.

10 - Tube is Corroding

The tube would corrode if the air entering the heating system was not clean. See your heater’s manual for combustion air intake instructions.

Refer to warnings on cover prior to servicing the unit. Bypass safety pressur e switches for supervised troubleshooting purposes only.

*Do not leave switches bypassed while the heater is unattended or for normal operations.

Consult Detroit Radiant Products for further technical information

11 - Visual Inspection of Burner Operation not Possible

From the ground, the burner inspection window should be visible. If it is not, the heater may be mounted upside down. Confirm proper mounting and remount if necessary.

12 - Stack Sooting

Soot accumulation can be caused by the following:

12.1

If the air entering the system is not clean (see 6 & 8), soot will form.

12.2

Soot will form if there is not enough air entering the system. The air intake orifice and pipe must be clean and clear of any obstructions (see 2.2.3) (pg. 8 pic. 8).

12.3

Too much gas entering the system will cause soot to form. Check the manifold (section 6.1) pressure

(pg. 8, pic.6 and pg. 19, #2) for the appropriate pressure.

12.4

Check the atmospheric vents on both pressure switches to be sure they are clean and clear . (see 2.3.2).

12.5

Be sure there is no excessive back pressure on the system. (Example - high winds, bird nest, snow, etc.)

13 - Odor or Fumes Present in Space

Odors present in the space being heated may be caused by a variety of products being used, stored or processed in the space. These are usually cleaning solvents or sealers which are high in hydrocarbons (ie. parts cleaners, transmission cleaners and floor sealers). In addition, propane burning forklifts can also add odors and carbon monoxide to the space.

To cut down on these odors, a clean work environment has to be maintained. If it is necessary that these solvents remain in the space, proper ventilation is required.

NOTE: If the heater is pulling intake air from the space, its integrity can be compromised by the presence of these solvents, causing the same problems found in sections 8-12 of this guide.

Refer to warnings on cover prior to servicing the unit. Bypass safety pressur e switches for supervised troubleshooting purposes only.

*Do not leave switches bypassed while the heater is unattended or for normal operations.

Consult Detroit Radiant Products for further technical information

HOW TO...

1 - Take an Inlet Pressure Reading: (Always take the inlet pressure before taking the manifold pressure)

♦ Follow the same procedures as taking a Manifold Pressure Reading (Step 2 below) except use

the inlet tap on the gas valve or the gas cock, located on the outside of the heater .

2 - Take a Manifold Pressure Reading:

♦ Turn gas and power to the heater off. ♦ Remove lid. ♦ Locate outlet tap on gas valve (pg. 8, pic. 6). ♦ Remove tap using a 3/16” allen wrench. ♦ Insert a 1/8” pipe-thread barb fitting and run a hose to the outside of the burner box using the

5/16” capped hole next to the gas valve line opening, or, the 3/8” hole next to the conduit going to the glo-bar box (newer models only).

♦ Connect tube to a Manometer or Magnahelic. ♦ Reinstall lid. ♦ Fire heater. ♦ The reading on the Manometer or Magnahelic is the manifold pressure.

3 - Check for Proper Polarity:

♦ Turn off power to the heater. ♦ Remove the cover of the 2x4 junction box on the outside of the heater - if applicable. ♦ Locate the three wires inside - black, white & green. ♦ Using a voltmeter, touch the black wire with one probe and the green wire with the other -

confirm 120V.

♦ Using a voltmeter, touch the white wire with one probe and the green wire with the other -

confirm 0.0V.

♦ If the previous step confirmed 120V, the polarity is reversed and must be corrected in the conduit

upstream from the heater.

4 - Test for Positive Ground:

♦ Be sure that the ground (green) wire goes all the way back to the circuit panel. ♦ If it does not, a qualified electrician must rerun this line.

5 - Test for Negative Pressure:

The building has a negative pressure if any of the following is occurring:

♦ Building’ s door(s) shut very quickly with a loud bang. ♦ Building’ s door(s) are dif ficult to open - as if they are suctioned shut. ♦ The heater is fired and then turned off. The lid is removed and hot gases come

back into the heater box.

♦ An incline manometer is set up with one hose outside of the building and one inside.

It’ s reading confirms a negative inside pressure.

6 - Bypassing a Switch:

♦ Turn power off. ♦ Disconnect both black wires attached to the safety switches with a 1/4” female spade. ♦ Attach them to each other using alligator clips or electrical tape. ♦ Be sure this connection touches nothing else, especially metal. ♦ Turn power back on (Do not leave switches bypassed during normal heater operation).

KEY TP# ITEM KEY TP# ITEM

ALL TP-1 CONTROL BOX COVER ALL TP-70 CONTROL BOX COVER GASKET(PER FOOT**)

DX/XTS Series Heaters

DX-2 Seres Heater

NOTES

Re-Verber-Ray DX, DX-2, XTS Troubleshooting Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual