Reliant Kitten Saloon, Kitten Estate Workshop Manual

Kitten Saloon and Estate

Workshop Manual

Incorporating the Factory supplement pack

©The Reliant Motor Company Limited July 1975 Remastered January 2011 by Atodini

Page 1

This Workshop Manual contains all the

Introduction Contents

relevant information to assist Reliant Dealers to
service and maintain the Kitten Saloon, Estate and Van
Models.

Dismantling, assembly and adjustment
procedure for all major units and associated parts are
dealt with in detail.

A comprehensive stock of spare parts are
available from Reliant Dealers. a spare parts list is
available for use when ordering. Only genuine Reliant
"R" parts should be used.

Service Department

Reliant Motor Company Limited
Two Gates Tamworth
Staffordshire B77 1HN
Telephone Tamworth 4151
Telegrams Reliant Tamworth 4151
Telex 341501

Parts Supply Department
The Reliant Motor Company Limited
Lynn Lane Shenstone
Staffordshire WS14 0ED
Telephone Shenstone 480671

Original "R" Part No. 91048

General Specification pages3-4

Lubrication and Maintenance

pages5-14

Section A Chassis Frame

page15

B Front Suspension

pages16-20

C Rear Suspension

pages21-22

D Steering

pages23-28

E Cooling System

pages29-33

F Engine

pages34-51

G Gearbox

pages52-57

H Clutch

pages58-61

J Drive Shaft

pages62-63

K Rear Axle

pages64-71

L Brakes

pages72-79

M Road Wheels

pages80-81

N Exhaust System

page82

P Fuel System

Q Body pages89-98

pages83-88

R Interior

pages99-104

S Heater

pages105-106

T Electrics

pages107-134

U Windscreen Washer

pages135-136

V Tightening Torques

pages 137-138

Page 2

General Specification

Engine
Number of Cylinders 4 in-line
Bore of cylinders 62.50 mm (2.46 in)
Stroke of crankshaft 69.09 mm (2.72 in)
Cubic capacity 848 cc (51.77 cu in)
Compression ratio saloon/estate 9.5 to 1
van 8.5 to 1
Speed at 1,000 rpm in top gear saloon/estate 17 mph (37.4 kph)
van 15.5 mph (25 kph)
Valve clearance -
Inlet 0.25 mm (0.010 in) Hot 0.152 mm (0.006 in) Cold
Exhaust 0.25 mm (0.010 in) Hot 0.152 mm (0.006 in) Cold

Performance Data

Brake Horse Power (maximum) 40.0 at 5,500 rpm
Torque (maximum) 6.38 kg/m (46 lb ft) at 3,500 rpm

Lubrication System
Pump Submerged eccentric rotor type
Filter External full-flow type
Oil Pressure 3.16 kg/sq cm (45 lb/sq in)

Ignition System
12 Volt battery and coil Negative Earth
Contact breaker gap 0.38 mm (0.015 in)
Sparking Plugs - Type Motocraft AGR 32
Gap 0.64 mm (0.025 in)
Firing Order 1, 3, 4, 2
Ignition Timing 10° BTDC

Cooling System
Pressurised radiator, pump assisted circulation and four-bladed fan driven by a "V" belt from engine pulley
Radiator cap pressure 0.492 kg/sq cm (7 lbs/sq in)

Fuel System
Carburettor Emission controlled SU type HS2 - 1¼ in
Fuel Pump AC Delco mechanical
Air Cleaner Paper element type

Clutch
Type Single dry plate 158.75 mm (6.25 in) diameter
Operation Cable

Gearbox
Four forward speeds and reverse. Synchromesh on all forward gears
Ratio: Top 1.00:1
Third 1.32:1
Second 2.05:1
First 3.88:1
Reverse 3.25:1

Rear axle
Type Spiral bevel gear semi floating
Ratio saloon/estate 3.23:1
van 3.545:1

Brakes
System Lockheed hydraulically operated internal expanding to all wheels
Size - Front 177.8 x 38.1 mm (7 in x 1.50 in)
Rear 177.8 x 31.25 mm (7 in x 1.25 in)
Handbrake Lever type operating rear brakes mechanically by cable linkage

Suspension
Front Reliant independent - wishbones, coil springs, damper units and anti roll
bar
Rear Reliant - progressive rate leaf spring, telescopic damper units.

Page 3

Steering
Type Rack and pinion
Turning Circle 7.32 m (24 ft)
Castor 12°
Camber 1° positive
Toe-in Zero
King pin inclination 9°
Conforming to European Safety Regulations

Chassis Data

Type Box section with tubular cross members and channrel section diagonal cross
bracing.
Wheelbase 2146 mm (84.65 in)
Track, front and rear 1244.6 mm (49 in)
Ground clearance (fully laden) 127.0 mm (5.0 in)

Wheels and tyres Saloon/Estate Van
Road wheels 350B x 10 350B x 10
Tyres 145 x 10 radials 520 x 10 cross ply

Capacities
Engine including filter 3.13 litres (5.50 pints)
Gearbox 0.64 litres (1.125 pints)
Rear axle 1.28 litres (2.25 pints)
Steering rack and pinion 0.19 litres (0.33 pints)
Cooling system including heater 3.69 litres (6.5 pints)
Fuel tank 27.3 litres (6 gallons)

Vehicle Dimensions Saloon Estate Van
Overall length 3327.4 mm (131 in) 3346.5 mm (131.75 in) 3346.5 mm (131.75 in)
Overall width 1422.4 mm (56 in) 1422.4 mm (56 in) 1422.4 mm (56 in)
Overall height 1397 mm (55 in) 1397 mm (55 in) 1397 mm (55 in)
Loading height 1016mm (40 in) 508 mm (20 in) 508 mm (20 in)
(ground to tailgate sill) (ground to rear floor) (ground to rear floor)
Load width - maximum 1028.7 mm (40.5 in) 850.9 mm (33.5 in) 850.9 mm (33.5 in)
(width at tailgate sill) (rear door aperture) (rear door aperture)
Load height - maximum aperture 457.2 mm (19 in) 749.3 mm (29.5 in) 749.3 mm (29.5 in)
(tailgate aperture height) (rear door aperture) (rear door aperture)
Load height - maximum inside vehicle 850.9 mm (33.5 in) 876.3 mm (34.5 in) 876.3 mm (34.5 in)
Length behind rear seat 647.7 mm (25.5 in) 693.1 mm (26.5 in)
Length with rear seat folded 1092.2 mm (43 in) 1168.4 mm (46 in)
Load floor width behind rear seat 952.5 mm (37.5 in) 952.5 mm (37.5 in)

Load capacities
Saloon - capacity of boot area, rear seat up, spare wheel in position
below tonneau cover 0.230 cu m (8.5 cu ft)
Saloon - capacity of rear compartment with rear seat folded, spare
wheel in position, up to roof level 0.849 cu m (30 cu ft)
Estate - capacity of rear compartment with spare wheel in position
and rear seat up 0.270 cu m (9.5 cu ft)
Estate - capacity of complete rear compartment, with spare wheel
in position and rear seat folded 1.132 cu m (40 cu ft)
Van - capacity with front passenger seat installed 1.189cu m (42 cu ft)
Van - capacity with front passenger seat removed 1.500 cu m (53 cu ft)

Kerb weight

Saloon 505.81 kg (1114 lb)
Estate 538.9 kg (1187 lb)
Van 515 kg (1134 lbs)

Maximum towing weights
Gross laden vehicle weight 862 kg (1900 lb)
Approximate payload 320 kg (700 lb)
Maximum recommended front axle weight 363 kg (800 lb)
Maximum recommended rear axle weight 550 kg (1210 lb)
Recommended towing weight (maximum) 406 kg (896 lb)

Page 4

Lubrication and maintenance

Check and top up engine oil level

Change oil filter

X X X X

Change gearbox oil

X X X X X X

X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X

X X X X

Tighten cylinder head, sump and manifold fixings

X X X X X X X

Check and adjust fan belt tension

X X X X X X X X

Clean coil, distributor cap and HT leads

X X X X X X

Replace spark plugs

Change fuel filter

X X X

Check hydraulic system, bleed and top-up

Inspect brake system for leaks and hoses for chafing

Adjust brakes

Check security of wheels

Check and adjust clutch

Check body, suspension, steering retaining fixings and connections

Repack front wheel bearings and adjust

The maintenance periods fall in to well classified categories.

1. Regular weekly attention.

2. Maintenance at the first 1,000 miles (1500 km).

3. Maintenance at 6,000 mile (10,000 km) intervals - standard

service.

4. Maintenance at 12,000 mile (30,000 km) intervals - major
service.

The standard and major service intervals are designed to ensure
safety and reliability under most operating conditions. However, if
your operating conditions are severe, you cover a very low annual
mileage or have a high proportion of short journeys, a supplementary
service is recommended at intervals of 3,000 miles (5000 km).

Operation

Lubrication

Change engine oil

Check and top up gearbox oil

Check and top up rear axle oil
Clean oil filler cap and connecting hose
Oil or grease all lubrication points
Lubricate throttle linkage and top-up carburettor damper
Lubricate all locks and hinges

General

Check air cleaner element
Replace air cleaner element

This intermediate service is particularly important with increasing
vehicle mileage, after the first 12,000 miles (20,000 km). This
supplementary service is limited to simple checks and adjustments,
easily carried out by an owner, all of which are described in the
following pages of this manual. The work can, of course, be entrusted
to a dealer if you prefer.

Details of the intermediate service together with the standard and
major services, are included in the "Key to service" booklet.
Presentation of this service booklet to any Reliant dealer will ensure
proper completion of the maintenance operations.

The operations listed below should be carried out at the mileages
shown.

Weekly First 1,000 miles (1,500 km) 3,000 miles (5,000 km) 6,000 miles (10,000 km) 12,000 miles (20,000 km) 18,000 miles (30,000 km) 24,000 miles (40,000 km) 30,000 miles (50,000 km) 36,000 miles (60,000 km)

X X

X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X

X X X

X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X

X X X

Check and adjust valve clearances

Examine and adjust or replace distributor points

Clean and adjust spark plugs

Remove and clean carburettor

Check and top-up master cylinder

Replace hydraulic system fluid and seals or replace units, replace hoses

Examine brake shoes

Check handbrake cable and adjust

Adjust tyre pressures and inspect condition of tyres

Check condition of steering rack gaiters

Check and adjust front wheel bearings

Check front wheel toe-in, also rear wheel alignment

Page 5

X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X

X X X
X X X
X X X

X X

X X X X X X
X
X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X
X X X X X
X X X X X X X
X X X X X
X
X X X X

X X X X X X X

X X X X X X X X X

Check all controls, lights, horn, instruments

X X X X X X X X X

Check washer reservoir and top-up

X X X X X X X X X

Check and if necessary renew windscreen

X X X
X X X X X X X

Operation

Check door operation, locks and hinges
Top-up battery, check connections X X X X X X X X X
Top up radiator coolant
Check for oil and water leaks X X X X X X X

etc.
Check headlamp alignment X X X X X X

Check external condition of exhaust system X X X X X X

wiper blades

Road test

Check brake function X X X X X X X X
Adjust ignition timing and dwell angle
Adjust carburettor X X X X X X X
Warning: Emission controlled carburettors require special attention

Weekly First 1,000 miles (1,500 km) 3,000 miles (5,000 km) 6,000 miles (10,000 km) 12,000 miles (20,000 km) 18,000 miles (30,000 km) 24,000 miles (40,000 km) 30,000 miles (50,000 km) 36,000 miles (60,000 km)

Routine maintenance - Engine

Check and top-up engine oil level

1. Withdraw dipstick. Wipe clean and replace. remove

again and note oil level indicated by trace of oil to the full mark on
the dipstick.

2. If necessary top-up with a recommended grade of oil to
the full mark on the dipstick. Do not over fill (figure 2)

Drain engine oil and refill
This operation is best carried out when the engine is warm.

1. Place a suitable receptacle under the drain plug and
unscrew the plug slowly until oil begins to escape. When the rate

of flow lessens, remove the plug completely and allow the oil to
drain for a few mintues. (figure 3) Care should be taken to ensure
that no dirt or grit enters the sump whilst the plug is removed.

2. Clean the plug thoroughly and check the condition of
the sealing washer. If damaged the washer should be replaced

Page 6

otherwise oil leaks may result. refit the plug and screw in tightly.
Refill the sump via the oil filler cap with the recommended grade
of oil. A flushing oil can be used to advantage on engines which
have done a considerable mileage, particularly if the
recommended oil change intervals have not been adhered to.

Check leaks from cooling and heater system

1. Check hose connections and tightness of clips.

2. Check radiator drain plug (if fitted).

3. Check cylinder block drain plug.

4. Examine cylinder block core plugs

5. Examine heater water system for leaks

Figure 2 Engine oil level dipstick

1. Dipstick

Renewing oil filter

This operation is best carried out when the engine is warm.

1. Place a suitable receptacle under the drain plug and
unscrew the plug slowly until the oil begins to escape. When the rate
of flow lessens, remove plug and allow oil to drain for a few minutes.
Clean and replace drain plug.

2. Grasp the oil filter with both hands, turn in an anti-
clockwise direction, remove and discard. (figure 4)

3. Clean the cylinder block face. Fit a new filter and screw
firmly home.

4. Refill the sump via the oil filler cap with the recommended
grade of oil to the "full" mark on the dipstick.

5. Start engine and check for oil leaks between filter and
cylinder block face.

Oil Filler Cap

The cap is a push-pull fit. The oil filler cap contains a wire gauze
element and should be washed in clean paraffin. Dip the cap in clean
oil and wipe thoroughly before refitting.
The oil filler cap also acts as an engine ventilator and is connected via
a hose to the carburettor. It is important that the hose is maintained
in good condition and connected securely. air leaks will result in
misfiring and erratic running.

Check and top-up cooling system
Warning: Do not remove radiator filler cap when the engine is hot.

1. Remove radiator filler cap.

2. If necessary, top up with water until the top header tank of

the radiator is approximately two thirds full. Some vehicles will have a
radiator that has a coolant level indicator visible in the filler neck.
Replace the filler cap.

Figure 3 Sump and gearbox drain plugs

1. Sump drain plug

2. Gearbox drain plug

Check and top-up brake fluid reservoir

1. Wipe clean the reservoir cap and surrounding area and

remove the cap. Examine the fluid level and top up to the bottom of
the reservoir filler neck.
Use only new fluid of the correct specification, taken from a
sealed container for topping up. Never under any circumstances use
fluid that has been previously bled from a system to top up the master
cylinder reservoir as it may be aerated, have too much moisture
content or possibly be contaminated.
Note: Castrol Girling "Crimson" brake fluid has been used for initial
fill. If not available to top up use Castrol Girling "Universal" or a listed
alternative.

Check and top-up windscreen washer fluid reservoir
Examine the water level in the plastic windscreen washer
reservoir and if necessary top-up with clean water.
Caution: Do not use Glycol anti-freeze solutions or denatured
alcohol (methylated spirits). The use of these chemicals will
discolour the paintwork and will damage the wiper blades.

Check and top-up battery

1. Check the electrolyte level, which, when correct should just

cover the separators. Top-up if necessary using distilled water only

2. Remove the battery connections, wipe clean and before
refitting, smear the terminal posts with petroleum jelly (vaseline).

3. Check the specific gravity of the electrolyte (see section T)

.

Top-up carburettor piston damper

1. Unscrew and withdraw the plug and piston from the top of
the suction chamber (figure 5)

2. Note that the oil level, which, when correct, is 13 mm (½in)

above the top of the hollow piston rod. Top-up if necessary with clean

Page 7

engine oil, SAE 20 or 20/50 grade and refit the hexagon plug and
piston assembly

3. Using a 0.64 mm (0.025 in) feeler gauge, check the gap and
adjust if necessary by bending the side electrode towards or away
from the central electrode as necessary.

4. Discard plugs which have badly burned electrodes or
cracked ceramic insulators. A centre electrode in good condition will
still have a square form without signs of wear.

Figure 4 Engine Oil Filter

1. Oil filter

2. Oil pressure relief valve

3. Oil pressure switch

Lubricating distributor

1. Remove distributor cap.

2. Lift off rotor arm.

3. Apply a few drops of oil to the felt pad in the centre of the

rotor spindle.

4. Lightly grease the cam surface.

5. Wipe away surplus oil and grease.

6. Refit the rotor arm and distributor cap.

Check condition and adjust distributor points

1. Remove the distributor cap and rotor arm.

2. Turn the engine so that the heel of the contact breaker is

on the highest point of the cam. (it may be necessary to remove the
sparking plugs to eliminate resistance caused by engine compression).

3. Slacken the slotted head screw in the contact plate and
adjust until the gap is 0.38 mm (0.015 in) (Figure 6). The gap is
measured with a suitable feeler gauge and pressure should be applied
to the points, with the feeler gauge inserted, whilst the screw is being
tightened.

4. Retighten the screw and make a further check with the
feeler gauge in case tightening has altered the setting.

5. Reposition the rotor arm squarely on the distributor cam
boss with the slot and lug in line. Press the rotor into position on the
spindle
Note: When the rotor is fitted to the spindle the lower face does not
abut the cam.
If the points are badly worn or pitted they should be replaced. For
replacement procedure see Section T.

Clean and adjust spark plugs

1. Remove each spark plug in turn from engine.

2. Clean the electrodes with a wire brush or plug cleaner.

Page 8

Figure 5 Carburettor - lubrication

1. Suction chamber.

2. Damper.

3. Fuel trap.

5. Refit the plugs complete with washers and tighten to a
torque of 2.1 kg/m (15 lb/ft)

Check torque of cylinder head nuts

Cylinder head nuts should be tightened to a torque of 3.46 kg/m (25
lb/ft). The three 5/16 in unf nuts fitted to the spark plug side must be
tightened to a torque of 2.07 kg/m (15 lb/ft). The correct sequence for
cylinder head nuts tightening is shown in Section F

Check and adjust valve rocker clearances

Valve clearances are 0.152 mm (0.006 in) cold, 0.254 mm (0.010 in)
hot.

1. Remove rocker cover.

2. Remove spark plugs.

3. Turn engine in normal running direction in order to open

and close the valves and check in the following order:
No. 1 valve with No. 8 valve fully open.
No. 2 valve with No. 7 valve fully open.
No. 3 valve with No. 6 valve fully open.
No. 4 valve with No. 5 valve fully open.
No. 5 valve with No. 4 valve fully open.
No. 6 valve with No. 3 valve fully open.
No. 7 valve with No. 2 valve fully open.
No. 8 valve with No. 1 valve fully open.
When adjustment is made the valve must be in the fully closed
position (figure 7).

4. Refit spark plugs.

5. Refit rocker cover, renewing gasket if necessary and secure

with nuts and washers.

Clean air filter element

1. Clean the outside of the air filter body and release the two
clips retaining the body to the base plate. (figure 8)

2. Carefully withdraw the element from the base plate.

3. Clean the base plate and body interior

4. Clean between folds of the element using a low pressure air

line or soft brush.

Figure 8 Air Cleaner

1. Body.

2. Element.

Figure 6 Distributor - general view

1. Locking/adjustment screw.

2. Cam spindle lubrication pad.

3. Breaker arm pivot post.

4. Terminal post.

5. Low tension lead.

Figure 7 Valve clearance - tappet adjustment

1. Feeler gauge.

2. Adjusting screw.

3. Lock nut.

5. refit the element or replace with a new element ensuring
the plastic ends of the element are smeared with petroleum jelly or
grease to facilitate sealing.

6. Replace the body and secure with the two clips.
Note: The frequency necessary for cleaning or replacing the element
will depend on the severity of the operating conditions and where
there are heavy dust concentrations or unusually severe conditions
more frequent attention should be given to the cleanliness of the unit.

Page 9

Figure 8A Air cleaner from chassis No 6F7/14701001sal,
6F7/14801002 estate, 6H1/14901043 van

1. Body

2. Element

Figure 9 Fan belt adjustment

1. Adjustment locking screw.

2. Alternator front mounting bolt.

Adjust and check condition of the fan belt

The fan belt should be sufficiently tight to drive the alternator and
water pump without loading the bearings unduly. The adjustment is
correct when the belt can be moved laterally 13 mm (½ in) at the mid
point between the alternator and water pump pulleys. (figure 9) If
adjustment is necessary proceed as follows:

1. Slacken the alternator front mounting bolt.

2. Slacken the adjustment locking screw at the front of the

alternator allowing it to be moved on the slotted strap.

3. Pivot the alternator away from the engine until the correct
slack is achieved. Maintain the alternator in this position and tighten
the locking screw and front mounting bolt. Re-check the adjustment.
Note: The front lower mounting must be slackened completely before
making any adjustment as any strain on the lower fixings could distort
or damage the mountings.
Regularly examine the fan belt for wear and renew if necessary.

1. Ensure the fast idling screw is clear of the choke cam.

2. Adjust idling screw to achieve an idling speed of

approximately 800 to 850 rpm. Should these adjustments fail to
achieve satisfactory results refer to Section P.

Lubricate accelerator linkage

Using an oil can, lubricate the accelerator linkages on the carburettor.
Wipe away surplus oil (figure 5)

Routine maintenance - under body

Check and top-up gearbox oil

1. Place the vehicle on ramp or over pit.

2. Remove gearbox level plug and observe oil level correct
when in line with the bottom of the level hole threads (figure 10).

3. If necessary top up via the level hole using a pump type oil

can with a flexible nozzle charged with the recommended oil until the
level is correct.

Figure 10 Gearbox oil level and drain plugs

1. Filler/level plugs.

2. Drain plug.

Check security of starter and alternator fixing bolts

Starter Motor

Using a torque wrench set to 4.15 to 4.84kg/m (30 to 35
lb/ft) check tightness of attachment nuts and bolts.

Alternator

1. Check tightness of front mounting bolt - 2.1 to 2,7 kg/m (15

to 20 lb/ft).

2. Check alternator to strap locking screw - 1.1 to 1,3 kg/m (8
to 18 lb/ft).

Check security of engine mountings

The engine and gearbox assembly is secured to the frame at three
points.

1. Check tightness of front right and left hand attachment nuts

- 2.76 to 3.46 kg/m (20 to 25 lb/ft).

2. Check tightness of gearbox rear attachment nuts - 2.07 to

2.49 kg/m (15 to 18 lb/ft).

Check/adjust carburettor settings

Start the engine and warm to normal running temperature. Push the
choke control fully home.

Page 10

Figure 11 Rear axle oil filler/level plug

1. Filler/level plug.

Figure 12 Driveshaft grease nipples

1. Sliding spline grease nipple.

2. Universal joint grease nipple.

4. Wipe clean and refit level plug. Tighten to a torque of 2.07
to 2.76 kg/m (15 to 20 lb/ft)

Check and top up level of rear axle oil

1. Place the vehicle on ramp or over pit.

2. Wipe clean the level plug and surrounding area and remove
plug (figure 11).

3. Observe oil level which is correct when level with the

bottom of the level hole threads.

4. If necessary, top up via the level hole, using a pump type oil
can with a flexible nozzle, charged with a recommended oil, until the
level is correct.

5. Wipe clean the level plug and refit. Tighten to 2.07 to 2.76
kg/m (15 to 20 lb/ft)

Lubricate drive shaft

1. Place the vehicle on ramp or over pit.

2. Using a grease gun charged with a recommended lubricant.

Check exhaust system for leakage and security

Check security of the exhaust connections and manifold bolt
tightness. Examine the system for corrosion and deterioration.

Check tightness of suspension fixings, tie-rod levers, steering unit
attachments and steering universal coupling bolts plus check
gaiters for damage

Rear suspension

1. Check tightness of nuts and bolts securing the leaf springs
and shackles to the frame.

2. Check tightness of nuts and bolts securing the upper and
lower ends of the dampers to the rear axle and chassis frame.

Figure 13 Handbrake cable grease nipples

1. Grease nipples

Apply grease via the nipple located at the gearbox end of the drive
shaft and to the nipple on each of the universal joints.

Lubricate handbrake cable and cable guides

1. Place the vehicle on ramp or over pit.

2. Using a grease gun charged with a recommended lubricant,
apply grease to the cable by means of the two grease nipples (figure

13) Apply grease at any area of the exposed inner cable and liberally

coat the cable guides on the axle with grease to prevent the inner
cable binding on the guides.

Check hydraulic system and fuel system pipes for chafing, leaks
and corrosion

Follow the run of all brake hydraulic pipes and ensure that at no point
are they chafing against body or frame members. Note and report any
corroded section of pipe. Examine all joints for leaks whilst a second
person applies pressure to the brake pedal. Check that the flexible
hoses are not kinked or strained when the steering is turned from lock
to lock.
Examine the run of the fuel line from tank to carburettor and ensure
that at no point is it chafing against the body or fouling components.
Check the rubber connections between sections of pipe are not
unduly stained, perished or split.

Figure 14 Headlamp adjusting screws

1. Horizontal adjustment screw.

2. Vertical adjustment screw.

Front suspension

3. Check tightness of all nuts and bolts securing the upper and
lower wishbones to the frame.

4. Check upper and lower fixings of the coil spring damper
units.

5. Check nuts connecting the lower wishbones to the vertical
link fulcrum.

6. Check security of the track rod ends to steering arm nuts.

7. Check tightness of all anti roll bar fixings.

Steering unit attachment

8. Check tightness of rack assembly fixings - 2.07 to 2.5 kg/m
(15 to 18 lb/ft).

9. Check for and ascertain cause for any backlash in the
steering.

10. Examine steering rack gaiters and check condition / leakage.

Steering rack couplings

11. Check pinch bolts through universal couplings - 3.46 to 4.15
kg/m (25 to 30 lb/ft).

Check tightness of drive shaft connecting bolts

1. Place the vehicle on ramp or over pit.

2. Check tightness of coupling bolts at both ends of propellor

shaft - 3.46 to 4.15 kg/m (25 to 30 lb/ft).

Page 11

Routine maintenance - exterior

Adjust front hubs

Refer to Section B

Check and adjust front and rear wheel alignment with tracking
equipment

Use standard garage equipment and check as described in Section D

Inspect brake linings for wear and drums for condition

Front brakes

1. Jack up the vehicle until one front wheel is clear of the
ground.

2. Remove the road wheel and fully slacken off the brake
adjusters.

3. Remove the brake drum. Note: The relative position of the
drum to the hub must be noted before removal for correct
reassembly.

4. Check the lining material thickness. Linings which are
bonded to the shoes must not be allowed to wear below 1/16" in
thickness. Riveted shoes must be replaced when the material wears
within 1/32" of the rivet heads.

5. If the linings are serviceable, replace the brake drum
ensuring it is aligned as originally fitted.

6. Refit the road wheel and re-adjust the brake. Repeat the
operation with the opposite front wheel.

Rear brakes

1. Jack up the vehicle until one rear wheel is clear of the
ground.

2. Release the handbrake.

3. Check the linings as described for the front wheels.

4. If the linings are serviceable, refit the drum and road wheel

and re-adjust the brake. Repeat for other rear wheel.

Check tightness of road wheel nuts

1. Remove nave plate.

Check tightness of wheel nuts - 4.15 to 4.84 kg/m (30 to 35 lb/ft)

Check condition of tyres and depth of tread

1. Check tyre tread depth using a depth gauge and ensure that

the depth exceeds the current legal requirements.

2. Examine around the tread and side walls of the tyres for
damage or cracking/perishing due to age, including the spare. Since it
is dangerous (and illegal in the UK) ensure that cross-ply and radial-ply
tyres are not mixed on the same axle. 145 x 10 Radial tyres only are
fitted as original equipment.

Check and adjust tyre pressures including the spare

Check tyre pressures when the tyres are cold, i.e. before a run. A tyre
set to the recommended pressure when hot will be under inflated
when cool.
Using a tyre pressure gauge, check that the tyres are inflated to the
following pressures:

Normal load: Saloon/Estate Front 1.41 kg/cm² (20 lb/in²)
Rear 1,55 kg/cm² (22 lb/in²)
Van Rear 1.69 kg/cm² (24 lb/in²)
Full load: Saloon/Estate Front 1.41 kg/cm² (20 lb/in²)
Rear 1.99 kg/cm² (28 lb/in²)
Van Rear 2.11 kg/cm² (30 lb/in²)

Check and adjust headlamp beam alignment

The front grill/bezel has two screwdriver holes for adjustment of the
headlamp beam setting screws.
Beam aiming can best be accomplished using equipment such as a
"Lucas beam setter" or "Lav-L-Lite".
Horizontal adjustment is obtained with the top beam setting screw,
vertical with the lower screw (Figure 14).

Check and if necessary replace windscreen wiper blades

Renew wiper blades when vision is impaired due to unsatisfactory
clearance of water from the windscreen.

To remove wiper blades.

1. Lift wiper arm, complete with blade, away from the
windscreen.

2. Tilt wiper blade assembly away from the wiper arm
(towards windscreen) to disengage it from the locating lug.

3. Hold wiper blade assembly in this position and lift the leaf-
spring at the rear of the wiper blade assembly, then slide the blade off
the wiper arm.

To refit wiper blade

1. Slide the wiper blade assembly over the wiper arm until the
lug on the wiper arm locates in the hole in the wiper blade.

Routine maintenance - interior

Check operation of window controls and door latches/locks

Operate window winders and check operation of interior and exterior
door handles and locks. Adjust/repair as necessary.

Lubricate all locks, door hinges and striker plates

Sparingly oil above components. Wipe away excess lubricant.

Check condition and security of seat fixings and seat belts

1. Operate driver's seat adjuster and slide the seat to it's

rearmost extent.

2. Check tightness of the front seat to floor mounting nuts and
bolts.

3. Operate adjuster and slide the seat to it's forward extent.

4. Check tightness of rear seat runner fixings.

5. Check correct operation of seat reclining mechanism

(where fitted).

6. Fold seat forward to check correct operation of seat lock.

Repeat above for passenger seat.

Examine seat belts carefully for chafing/fraying and check mountings
for tightness. Check seat belt latches operate correctly.

Check function of all electrical systems

Test the operation of the following equipment:

Lights: main beams, dipped beams, side lamps, panel lamps, courtesy
light, rear number plate lamp, brake lights, panel warning lights
(ignition, oil, main beam, flasher).

Check flashers, horn, heater blower, heated rear window (where
fitted), windscreen wipers and washers.

Check alternator and starter motor for correct operation.

Page 12

Routine maintenance - road test

Road test car and check brake function. Carry out any remedial work
required indicated by the road test e.g. adjustment of brakes,

carburettor or ignition timing. Note: Specialist equipment is needed to
ensure that carburation adjustment does not result in the vehicle
infringing the emission regulations.

Page 13

Lubrication chart (not listed in order of preference)

(British Isles)

MP

specification

Mobil

Castrol

Esso

BP

Shell

Petrofina

Duckhams

Texaco

Engine

Gearbox

Rear Axle

Steering

Rack & Pinion

Front Hub

Mobiloil super

or mobiloil

special
20w50

Mobilube

HD 80

Mobilube

HD 90

Mobilube

HD 90

Mobilgrease

Castrolite

Castrol

20w50

Esso Extra

Motor Oil
10w30 or

Uniflo

Castrol Hypoy

Light

Esso Gear Oil

GX 80

Castrol Hypoy Esso Gear Oil

GX 90/140

Castrol Hypoy Esso Gear Oil

GX 90/140

LM Grease

MP Grease H

BP Super

Viscostatic

10w30 or

Energol SAE

20w

Gear Oil

SAE 80EP

Gear Oil

SAE 90 EP

Gear Oil

SAE 90 EP

Energrease L2

Shell

Super

Motor Oil

Spirax

80 EP

Spirax

90 EP

Spirax

90 EP

Retinax A

Fina

Multigrade

motor oil
10w30 or

20w50

Pontonic

MP SAE 80

Pontonic

MP SAE 90

Pontonic

MP SAE 90

Marson HTL2

Q20-50

Motor Oil

Hypoid 80

Hypoid 90

Hypoid 90

LB 10

Havoline
motor oil
10w30 or

20w50

Multigear

EP 80

Multigear

EP 90

Multigear

EP 90

Marfak

Chassis

Brakes

Mobilgrease

MS3 Grease

MP Grease

Castrol Girling Universal Brake & Clutch Fluid or
Lockheed Super 105 Fluid or any fluid to J1703

Page 14

Energrease

L21M

Retinax AM

Marson LM2

LBM 10

Molytex

Page 15

Section B

Front Suspension

Contents

Routine maintenance

Operation 1 Front suspension assembly - removal and
replacement

Operation 2 Anti-Roll bar - Removal and replacement

Operation 3 Damper and spring assembly - removal and
replacement

Operation 4 Upper ball joint - removal and replacement

Operation 5 Lower ball joint and pivot bracket - removal
and replacement

Operation 6 Upper wishbone - bush replacement

Operation 7 Lower wishbone and strut - bush replacement

Operation 8 Vertical link - removal and replacement

Operation 9 Front hub - overhaul

Operation 10 Hub bearing adjustment

Description

The independent front suspension comprises upper and lower
wishbone assemblies and vertical links assisted by coil spring and
damper units.
The upper wishbones are attached to a ball joint on the vertical link
and secured and pivoted to the vehicle chassis suspension tower.
The lower wishbone assembly, secured to a lower ball joint on the
vertical link, supports the coil spring and damper unit. Two brackets
bolted to the chassis support the wishbones, which are also pivoted.

Routine maintenance

The front suspension should need little or no maintenance other than
the lubrication of the upper wishbone ball joint and the lower
wishbone ball joint and at major services the re-packing of the front
wheel bearing.
Lubricating nipples are situated at the upper wishbone ball joint
(figure 2) and at the lower fulcrum ball joint (figure 3). Apply three or
four strokes of a grease gun every 6,000 miles (10,000 km).
The front wheel bearings are lubricated by means of grease packed in
the hub on assembly. Repacking of front wheel bearings should be
carried out every 36,000 miles (60,000 km).

Operation 1 Front suspension assembly - removal and
replacement

To remove (figure 1)

1. Place vehicle on a ramp or support on chassis stands.

2. Remove nave plate and road wheel.

3. Remove brake drum.

Page 16

4. Remove the damper bottom fixing nut and withdraw bolt
from damper bush.

5. From inside the engine compartment, remove the damper
top fixings, comprising nut and locknut, rubber spacer and two
retaining cups.
Note: Access to the fixing on the r/h side of the vehicle can be
facilitated by the removal of the heater flexible hose.

6. Remove the bottom wishbone to pivot bracket fixings to
facilitate removal of the damper assembly.

7. Withdraw the damper assembly.

8. Remove track rod end nut and using a splitter separate the

track rod end from the steering arm.

9. Disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the
bundy pipe at the support bracket and plug to prevent fluid leakage or
dirt ingress.

10. Remove the two nuts securing the top wishbone pivot
brackets to the frame.

11. Remove the nut, cup washer and rubber spacer securing
the anti-roll bar link to the lower wishbone.

12. Remove the bolt, nut and spacer tube securing the strut to
the lower wishbone.

13. Remove the nut and bolt securing the nut to the frame.

14. Remove the nut and bolt securing the lower wishbone

assembly to the frame.

15. Repeat the procedure for the opposite suspension unit.

To replace

Replace in the reverse order and bleed the brake hydraulics. Check
camber and tracking (Section D)

Operation 2 Anti-Roll bar - Removal and replacement

To remove

1. Place vehicle on ramp, or support on suitable chassis
stands.

2. Remove the nut, cup washer and rubber spacer from the
link stud on the left hand wishbone.

3. remove the two bolts securing the anti-roll clamping rubber
bar to the left-hand chassis rail.

4. Repeat operations 3 and 3 for the right-hand side. (figure 4)

5. The anti-roll bar complete with links can be lowered from

the frame, withdrawing the link bushes from the lower wishbones.
Replace in reverse order.

Operation 3 Damper and spring assembly - removal and
replacement

To remove (figure 1)

1. Place vehicle on ramp, or support on suitable chassis

stands.

2. Remove road wheel.

3. From inside the engine compartment, remove the damper
top fixings, comprising nut and locknut, rubber spacer and two
retaining cups.
Note: Access to the fixing on the r/h side of the vehicle can be
facilitated by the removal of the heater flexible hose.

4. remove damper bottom fixing nut and spacer and withdraw
the bolt from the bush.

5. Remove the bottom wishbone to pivot bracket fixings to
facilitate removal of the damper assembly.
Replace in reverse order and check camber and tracking (section D).

Page 17

Figure 2 Upper wishbone ball
joint lubricator

1. Ball joint - grease nipple

Operation 4 Upper ball joint - removal and replacement
To remove (figure 1)

1. Place vehicle on ramp or support on suitable chassis stands.

2. Remove road wheel.

3. Disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the

bundy pipe at the support bracket and plug to prevent fluid leakage or
dirt ingress.

4. Remove the nut securing upper ball joint to vertical link,
releasing the brake pipe support bracket.

5. Using a suitable ball joint splitter, release the ball joint
taper from the vertical link.

6. Remove the bolts and nuts securing the upper wishbone
pivots and remove the wishbone complete with upper ball joint.
Note: If the wishbone bolts cannot be withdrawn because of the
damper, the wishbone pivot brackets can be removed by releasing the
nyloc nuts securing the brackets to the frame.

7. Remove the external circlip securing the ball joint to the
wishbone and prise or press the ball joint from the mounting plate in
the wishbone assembly.
Reassemble in reverse order.

Operation 5 Lower ball joint and pivot bracket - removal
and replacement

To remove (figure 1)

1. Place vehicle on ramp or support on suitable chassis stands.

2. Remove road wheel.

3. Remove bolt, nut and spacer securing damper bottom bush

to lower wishbone.

4. Remove bolt and nut securing the lower ball joint pivot
bracket assembly to the lower wishbone.

5. Remove the split pin from the castellated nut securing the
lower ball joint to the vertical link.

6. Remove the castellated nut.

7. Release the taper on the shank of the ball joint from the

vertical link and remove the ball joint and pivot bracket assembly.
replace in the reverse order, tightening the castellated nut to 4.29 to

4.98 kb/m (31 to 36 lb/ft) and renewing the split pin.

Figure 3 Lower fulcrum - lubricator

1. Bleed screw

2. Lower fulcrum - grease nipple

Operation 6 Upper wishbone - bush replacement

To remove (figure 1)

1. Dismantle upper wishbone assembly as sequence 1-5 of

operation 4.

2. Press out the wishbone bushes.

3. Press in the new bushes ensuring that they are centred in

the wishbone.

4. Refit the wishbone as in operation 4. Check camber setting
see Section D

Operation 7 Lower wishbone and strut - bush replacement

To remove (figure 1)

1. Place vehicle on ramp or support on suitable chassis stands.

2. Remove road wheel.

3. Remove nut, spacer and bolt securing strut to lower

wishbone.

4. Remove nut and bolt securing strut to bracket on frame.

5. Remove nut, spacer and bolt securing bottom of damper to

lower wishbone.

6. Remove nut and bolt securing lower wishbone to lower ball
joint pivot bracket.

7. Remove bolt, lock washer and nut plate securing lower
wishbone to frame. Press out the bushes from strut and lower
wishbone and replace bushes ensuring new bushes are centred
correctly.
reassemble in reverse order. Check tracking and camber settings see

Section D.

Operation 8 Vertical link - removal and replacement

1. Place vehicle on ramp or support on suitable chassis stands.

2. Remove road wheel.

3. Remove nut from track rod end ball joint and disconnect

the ball joint from the steering arm.

4. Disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the
bundy pipe at the support bracket and plug to prevent fluid leakage or
dirt ingress.

5. Remove bolt, nut and spacer securing damper bottom fixing
to lower wishbone.

Page 18

Figure 4 Anti-Roll bar removal

6. Remove nut and bolt securing lower ball joint pivot bracket

to lower wishbone

7. Separate lower ball joint pivot bracket from wishbone.

8. Remove nut from upper ball joint and, using a suitable tool,

separate the vertical link and hub/brake assembly, from the upper ball
joint and wishbone assembly.

9. Remove brake drum.

10. Prise the hub cap from the hub and wipe grease from end

of stub axle

11. Remove split pin, castellated nut and washer from stub
axle.

12. Withdraw the hub complete with bearings and felt oil seal.

13. Reassemble in reverse order, renewing stub axle split pin.

Bleed brakes and adjust.

Operation 9 Front hub - overhaul

1. Place vehicle on ramp or jack up.

2. Remove front wheel.

3. Remove brake drum.

4. Prise off the hub cap and wipe grease from stub axle end.

5. Remove split pin, castellated nut and washer from stub

axle.

6. Withdraw the hub complete with bearings and felt oil seal.

7. Ease out the inner cone and roller assembly from the outer

bearing. On no account must the inner cone be levered out as this
may cause damage to the roller cage.

8. tap out the outer bearing track from the hub using a
suitable drift.

9. Using the same drift, tap out the inner bearing track
complete with bearing and felt seal. Carefully inspect the bearings for
wear, scoring or pitting on the tracks or rollers. If excessive wear is
apparent the bearings must be renewed.

Before commencing re-assembly it is essential that the hub is
scrupulously cleaned of old grease paying special attention to the area
between the bearings. If only one bearing is to be replaced then the
remaining bearing must be cleaned free of old grease before re­packing. Do NOT use paraffin to clean bearings.

Page 19

Figure 6 Hub nut adjustment

Re-assembly

1. Locate the outer track of the inner bearing in its housing in
the hub and ensure it is firmly and squarely seated. Pack the inner
cone and roller assembly with the recommended grease (see
lubrication chart Page 13) and insert the cone in to the bearing track.

2. Renew the felt seal. This should be securely attached to the
retainer with "Hermatite" liquid jointing compound or similar oil
resistant adhesive. When dry, soak the seal and retainer assembly
with oil with the surplus squeezed out before firmly fitting it in the
hub.

3. Lightly grease the front hub with the approved grease, in
the area between the inner and outer bearings.
Note: Over packing the hub with grease can lead to overheating and
possible bearing failure.

4. Locate the outer bearing outer track in the hub, again
ensuring that it is firmly and squarely seated. Pack the outer bearing
cone and roller assembly with an approved grease and insert the cone
in to the bearing track.

5. Position the front hub assembly on to the stub axle and
secure with the large retaining washer and the castellated nut,
tightening finger tight until slight resistance can be felt whilst turning
the hub.

6. Slacken the nut back until a bearing float of between 0.05
to 0.15 mm is obtained. A dial gauge is preferable for this operation
but if one is not available, slacken the nut off half a flay, equivalent to
30 degrees (figure 6). Note: The importance of the correct end float
cannot be over emphasised. Over tightening the bearings will cause
overheating and subsequent bearing failure.

7. Fit a new split pin to the castellated nut.

8. Seal the centre vent hole of the hub cap with grease and

apply a quantity to the inside of the cap. Fit the cap to the hub.

9. Refit the brake drum.

10. Refit the road wheel and take the opportunity of testing for

bearing end float by rocking the wheel at the outside diameter of the
tyre. There should be approximately 1.5 mm (1/16") movement at the
tyre periphery.

11. Adjust brakes.

Operation 10 Hub bearing adjustment

Checking

1. Jack up the car and remove the front wheel.

2. Ensure that the brake shoes are not dragging or restricting

movement and rotation of the hub. Slacken off the hoes or remove
the brake drum as necessary.

3. Check the bearing end-float. a correctly adjusted hub will
have end-float within 0.05 to 0.15 mm (0.002 to 0.006 in). a dial gauge
should be used for checking purposes.

Adjusting

4. Prise off the hub cap.

5. Wipe off grease from the end of the stub axle.

6. Remove the split pin from the castellated nut and discard.

7. Tighten or slacken the castellated nut as necessary to
achieve the correct end-float. (see Operation 9)

8. Fit a new split pin.

9. Clean the hub cap and partially fill with fresh grease,

ensuring that the vent hole is sealed with grease.

10. Fit the hub cap.

11. Refit the brake drum (if removed) and adjust the brake.

12. Fit the road wheel and remove car from jack.

Page 20

Section C

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Operation 1 Leaf spring - removal and replacement

Operation 2 Damper unit - removal and replacement

Description

Rear suspension is provided by damper assisted progressive rate leaf
springs. The rear of the springs are suspended and pivoted on shackles
attached to the chassis frame. Four "U" bolts secure the springs to the
rear axle. The damper units, which have internal bump stops, are
secures to the chassis cross-tube and to brackets on the rear axle.

Routine maintenance

The rubber bushes in the damper units, leaf springs and shackles
should be kept free from oil or grease and replaced when signs of
wear or degrading become apparent.

Periodically check the dampers to ensure full movement is still
attainable. a seized unit will allow only minimal suspension
movement and result in a hard ride.

Operation 1 Leaf spring

To remove (Figure 1)

1. Jack up the vehicle under the differential and lower on to

axle stands, securely installed under the chassis frame. Allow the jack
to support the axle.

2. remove the road wheel.

3. Remove the nuts and lock nuts from the "U" bolts clamping

the axle to the leaf spring. remove "U" bolts and clamping plate.

4. Remove the nut and washer securing the spring to the rear
shackle and withdraw the bolt through the shackle and bush.

5. remove the nut and washer from the forward end of the
leaf spring and withdraw the bolt through the frame.

Re-assemble in reverse order.

Operation 2 Damper unit

To remove

1. Remove nut and washer securing damper unit to chassis
cross tube. Withdraw the bolt and washer.

2. Remove the damper lower fixing nut, washer and bolt from
the axle tube mounting bracket.

Replace in reverse order.

Page 21

Rear suspension

Bump Rubber - Van

A bump rubber, separate to the damper unit, was fitted to early Kitten
vans to limit the rear suspension bump travel.
The bump rubber is secured to a bracket on the rear chassis upsweep
above the axle. It should be checked occasionally for splits or sign of
perishing.

To remove (Figure 2)

1. Remove a single nut and lock washer securing the bump

rubber to the chassis mounting bracket.
Replace in reverse order

Figure 2 Bump rubber (Van)

1. Bump rubber

2. Lock washer

3. Nut

Page 22

Section D

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance
Operation 1 Toe-in adjustment, front wheel alignment

Operation 2 Camber adjustment

Operation 3 Castor angle adjustment

Operation 4 Steering wheel - removal and replacement

Operation 5 Steering lock/ignition switch - removal and
replacement

Operation 6 Steering column - removal and replacement

Operation 7 Steering rack - removal and replacement

Operation 8 Steering rack damper adjustment

Operation 9 Steering rack pinion preload adjustment

Operation 10 Steering gear overhaul, including inner ball joint
removal and bellows removal

Track rod inner ball joint renewal

Steering gear overhaul

Replacing steering rack gaiters

Figure 1 Castor, camber and king pin inclination

Steering

Description

The rack and pinion steering gear is mounted in rubber insulators
attached to the front cross member.
Movement of the steering wheel is transmitted by the steering shaft
through a flexible coupling to the helically toothed pinion. Rotation of
the pinion causes the rack to move laterally and the track rods,
attached to the ends of the rack, transmit this movement to the
steering arms and thus the road wheels to turn.
The track rod inner ball joints, attached to the rack, are protected by
convoluted rubber gaiters and the track rod outer ball joints, attached
to the steering arms, are protected by conventional rubber seals.
The unit contains 0.189 litre (½ pint) SAE 90 Hypoid gear oil, which is
put in during manufacture and normally no further lubrication is
required. On no account should the steering unit be completely filled
with oil. This will result in a pressure build-up which could burst or
blow off the gaiters.

Rack and pinion adjustments

The design and construction of the steering gear provides for two
adjustments:
(a) Rack damper adjustment
(b) Pinion bearing preload adjustment
Both these adjustments are obtained by varying the thickness of a
shim pack under a cover plate. It is necessary to remove the assembly
to carry out any adjustment.

Castor, camber and toe-in adjustments

The track rod ends are adjustable for length to permit toe-in setting.
The castor, camber and king pin inclination angles are set during
production, but provision is made for adjustment of castor and
camber angles by the addition or deletion of shims behind the upper
wishbone mountings brackets.

Page 23

The lock stops are built in to the steering gear and no adjustments are
possible.

Routine maintenance

At the 1,000 miles (1,500 km) free service the toe-in and rear wheel
alignment is checked. These checks should also be made at
subsequent 12,000 mile (20,000 km) intervals. The condition of
steering rack gaiters should be inspected at 6,000 mile (10,000 km)
intervals.

Operation 1 Toe-in adjustment, front wheel alignment

1. Position the car on level ground with the front wheels in the

straight ahead position. Centralise the steering by turning the steering
wheel from lock to lock, counting the turns, and then by turning back
exactly half the number of turns. In this position the steering wheel
spokes should adopt an inverted "Y" position.

2. Using optical/mechanical wheel alignment equipment,
measure the front wheel alignment. The toe-in should be zero degrees
(parallel). Take one reading, then roll the vehicle forward until the
wheels have rotated 180 degrees then check again, to allow for wheel
rim run out.

Adjusting

1. Slacken the outer clips on the steering rack gaiters.

2. Slacken the locking nuts on the track rods.

3. Shorten or extend the rods by rotating them until the

correct adjustment is obtained.

4. Tighten the lock nuts.

5. Tighten the gaiter clips.

Operation 2 Camber adjustment

Check that the vehicle is on level ground, that the wheels are pointing
straight ahead and that the tyre pressures are correct. Using
optical/mechanical wheel alignment equipment check the camber
angle. The amount of camber should be 1 degree positive when
correctly set.

Adjustment

1. Jack up the vehicle and remove road wheel.

2. Slacken the nyloc nuts securing the upper wishbone pivot

brackets to the suspension tower.

3. Add or delete shims as necessary behind both brackets to
adjust the camber angle.

4. Re-tighten the pivot bracket nuts.

5. Refit the road wheel and tighten the wheel nuts.

Check the camber setting again with wheel alignment equipment.

Operation 3 Castor angle adjustment

Check that the vehicle is on level ground, that the wheels are pointing
straight ahead and that the tyre pressures are correct. Using
optical/mechanical wheel alignment equipment check the caster
angle. The amount of camber should be 12 degrees.
If this reading is not obtained then adjust by adding or deleting shims
to the upper wishbone pivot brackets as detailed in Operation 2

Page 24

Operation 4 Steering wheel removal

Removal (Figure 2)

1. Prise off the steering wheel crash pad.

2. Disengage the steering lock. Scribe a line on the crash pad

retaining ring and the top of the steering column to ensure correct
alignment on re-assembly.

3. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and washer.

4. Using a suitable puller, remove the steering wheel from the

steering column.

refitting

1. Engage the steering wheel on to the steering column
splines ensuring that the alignment marks are correct. If no markings
are present, with the road wheels pointing straight ahead, refit the
steering wheel with the spokes in an inverted "Y" position.

2. Fit the washer and nut to the steering column and tighten
(ensuring the steering lock is disengaged).

3. Refit the steering wheel crash pad.

Operation 5 Steering lock/ignition switch removal

Removal (Figure 2)

1. Remove the steering wheel (see operation 4).

2. Remove multi switch cover retained by clamp beneath with

two screws and washers.

3. Remove multi switch retained by clamping bracket with two
screws.

4. Remove the pinch bolt securing the upper steering column
to the lower steering column accessible from within the foot well.

5. Remove the two screws, nuts and washers securing the
steering column support bracket to the fascia.

6. remove the saddle bracket fixings securing the steering
column to the body.

7. Disconnect the ignition switch wires, noting the connections
to aid re-assembly.

8. Remove the support lug bolt securing the steering column
to the two support brackets attached to the body.

9. Withdraw the steering column and remove from vehicle.

10. Place the column in a vice and drill out the two steering lock

shear bolts.

Refitting

1. Locate the steering lock on the column and align the
mounting holes.

2. Fit the new shear-head bolts and tighten evenly until the
bolt heads shear off.

3. Refit the steering column in reverse order

Operation 6 Steering column removal and replacement

To remove (Figure 2)

1. Follow sequence 1 to 9 of operation 5.

2. If the lower steering column is required to be removed from

the vehicle remove the pinch bolt securing the lower column to the
steering rack.

3. Pull the lower column through the hole in the body,
complete with the grommet. Re-assemble in reverse order.

Operation 7 Steering rack removal and replacement

To remove

1. Place the vehicle on a ramp or suitable axle stands.

2. Remove the pinch bolt from the lower universal joint of the

lower steering column.

3. Remove the nuts securing the track rod ends to the steering
arms.

4. Using a suitable tool, free the tapers on the track rod ends.

5. From beneath the vehicle, remove the bolts and lock

washers securing the rack clamps and insulating rubbers to the frame.

6. Feed the rack out from one side of the vehicle, after
disengaging the splines on the lower steering column.

Operation 8 Steering rack damper adjustment

To adjust (Figure 3)

1. Remove the steering rack as shown in operation 7.

2. Carefully mount the assembly in a vice (with protected

jaws) so that the pinion is horizontal and the rack (preload) cover is
uppermost.

3. Remove the two bolts securing the rack preload cover plate
to the casing.

4. Lift off the cover plate, shim pack and gasket. Withdraw the
spring, anti-knock pad and damper.

5. Assemble the damper to the rack and fit the anti-knock pad.
Do Not

fit the spring or shim pack. Fit the cover plate and tighten the

bolts evenly until the anti-knock pad is just "nipped".

6. Using feeler gauges, measure the gap between the cover
plate and steering gear casing. Note this dimension (to confirm that
the cover plate has been pulled down evenly by the retaining bolts,
take feeler gauge measurements adjacent to each bolt).

7. Assemble a shim pack (including a gasket which must be
next to the cover plate when assembled) which is 0.02 to 0.07 mm
(0.001 to 0.003 in) larger than the gap measured with the feeler
gauges. There must be 0.02 to 0.07 mm (0.001 to 0.003 in) clearance
between the anti-knock pad and the cover when assembled.

8. Remove the cover plate and fit the spring. Position the shim
pack and refit the cover plate.

9. Assemble the securing bolts to the cover plate using sealer
on the threads. Tighten the bolts to a torque of 0.85 to 1.1 kg/m (6 to
8 lb/ft).

Page 25

Page 26

Operation 9 Steering rack pinion preload adjustment

1. Carefully mount the steering rack into a vice so that the

pinion cover plate is uppermost.

2. Remove the two bolts securing the pinion bearing preload
cover to the casing.

3. Lift off the cover plate, shim pack and gasket.

4. Refit the pinion cover plate and loosely assemble the

retaining bolts. Do not

fit the shim pack and gasket.

5. Tighten the cover plate evenly until the cover plate is just
contacting the pinion bearing.

6. Using feeler gauges, measure the gap between the cover
plate and the steering gear casing. Note this dimension. (to confirm
that the cover plate has been pulled down evenly, take feeler gauge
measurements adjacent to each bolt).

7. assemble a shim pack (including a gasket which must be
next to the cover plate when assembled) which is 0.0. to 0.10 mm
(0.002 to 0.004 in) smaller than the gap measured with the feeler
gauges. There must be this amount of preload on the pinion bearings
when correctly shimmed. Details of available shim thicknesses and
part numbers are given at the end of this section.

8. Remove the pinion cover plate, assemble the shim pack and
refit the cover plate. Fit the securing bolts using sealer on the threads
and tighten to a torque of 0.85 to 1.1 kg/cm (6 to 8 lb/ft).

Checking the above measurements
Determine the torque required to start the pinion rotating using a
rotary torque gauge. This should be 5.77 to 9.21 kg/cm (5 to 8 lb/in). If
the actual torque is not within the prescribed limits, the adjustment is
incorrect (re-check the shimming) or there is a malfunction within the
assembly (tight bearings/bushes, damaged gear teeth, lack of
lubricant etc) which is increasing the friction in the unit.

Operation 10 Steering gear overhaul, including inner ball joint
removal and gaiter removal

To dismantle (Figure 3)

1. Remove the steering rack assembly as described in

operation 7.

2. Remove the ball joint and lock nut from one track rod
noting the number of turns to remove them.

3. Slacken the clips securing the gaiter to the track rod and the
steering rack casing. Note: In production, the inner end of the gaiter
may be secured with soft iron wire, not a screw clip. The soft iron wire
must never be re-used. a screw clip should be used on re-assembly.

4. Pull off the gaiter, keeping the steering rack body below the
level of the gaiter to avoid oil spillage.

5. Drain the oil into a suitable waste container. To do this, the
rack must be held vertically and traversed from lock to lock several
times until all the oil is expelled.

6. Remove the remaining track rod ball joint and locknut,
again noting the number of turns necessary to unscrew these.

7. Slacken the clips securing the remaining gaiter to the
assembly and remove the gaiter.

Track rod inner ball joint removal

To dismantle (Figure 3)

1. Drill out the retaining pin that locks the locknut and the ball

housing in position. Take great care not to drill too deeply.

2. Screw the ball housing off the end of the rack shaft.

3. Remove the spring and ball seat from the recess in the end

of the rack and discard.

4. Examine the ball housing and the ball formed on the end of
the track rod and discard if wear or damage is evident.

To overhaul (Figure 3)

1. Remove the pinion cover plate complete with shim pack

and gasket.

2. Withdraw the pinion and one of the pinion bearing
assemblies.

3. Withdraw the rack from inside the casing. It is better to
withdraw the rack from the pinion end of the unit. This avoids passing
the rack teeth through the bearing/bush in the opposite end of the
casing.

4. Remove the remaining pinion bearing assembly from the
casing.

5. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. If the rack or the
pinion teeth are damaged, a complete new steering gear must be
fitted. Examine the rack support bush and replace if necessary.

6. Remove the pinion oil seal from the casing.

To re-assemble

1. Fit a new pinion oil seal in to the casing.

2. Fit a new pinion bearing assembly and thrust washer to the

recess in the casing. Use grease to retain the bearings and thrust
washer.

3. Assemble the rack in to the casing and locate it so the teeth
are adjacent to the pinion location. Position the rack shaft in the
centre of its travel (i.e. the straight ahead position) by measuring the
rack protrusion at each end.

4. Assemble the other pinion bearing and thrust washer to the
pinion and fit the pinion in to the casing.

5. Replace the shim pack, gasket and cover plate securing with
two bolts, using sealer on the bolt threads. Tighten the bolts to a
torque of 0.85 to 1.1 kg/m (6 to 8 lb/ft). Check damper and preload
adjustments. See operations 8 and 9.

6. Fit a new spring and ball seat into the recess in the end of
the rack shaft.

7. Smear SAE 90 EP oil on to the ball, ball housing and seat.

8. Assemble the ball housing to the track rod. Screw the ball

housing on to the rack shaft until the track rod articulation becomes
stiff.

9. Fit a piece of wire to a pull spring balance and hook the wire
round the threaded end of the track rod approximately 13 mm (½ in)
from the end.

10. With the track rod in mid position - parallel to the rack
shaft, adjust the position of the ball housing on the rack until the
effort required to move the track rod, measured on the balance scale
is 2.8kg (5lbs).

11. Tighten the locknut against the ball housing.

12. Drill a 3.18 mm (1/8") hole 9.5 mm (3/8") deep on the line

of contact of the locknut and the ball housing. Half the drilled hole
will be in the locknut and half in the ball housing.
Note: A new hole must be drilled even if the halves of the previous
hole align.

13. Insert a new retaining pin and tap it in to position. Peen the
end of the pin to secure it.

14. Repeat the sequence 6 to 13 to re-assemble the opposite
track rod end.

Replacing the steering gear gaiters (Figure 3)

1. Slide the new gaiter along the track rod in to position on

the rack.

2. With the rack centralised, fit the inner clip to the gaiter and
rack housing.

3. Position the outer end of the gaiter on to the track rod so it
is capable of accommodating the full movement of the rack from lock
to lock.

Page 27

4. Secure the outer end of the gaiter to the track rod end with
a clip.

5. Refit the locknut and ball joint to the track rod, screwing
them on the same number of turns it required to remove them.

6. carefully mount the steering assembly in a vice with the end
to which the remaining gaiter has to be fitted uppermost.

7. Traverse the rack to that the upper track rod is in the fully
extended position.

8. Pour 0.189 litres (1/3 pint) of SAE 90 Hypoid gear oil into
the steering gear casing underneath the track rod inner ball joint.
Traverse the rack as necessary to assist the flow of oil.

9. Fit the remaining gaiter in position and secure with the
screw clips so that the track rod is capable of accommodating full
movement from lock to lock.

10. Refit the locknut and track rod ball joint screwing them on
the same number of turns needed to remove them.

Page 28

Replace the rack assembly in the vehicle and check the tracking,
adjusting if necessary. Tighten the lock nuts securing the track rod end
ball joints.

Steering specification

Type Rack and Pinion
Turning circle 7.32 m (24 feet)
Castor 12 degrees
Camber 1 degree positive
Toe-in Zero
King pin inclination 9 degrees

Pinion preload shims:

0.050mm (0.002 in) Pt No. 24396

0.127 mm (0.005 in) Pt No. 24397

0.254 mm (0.010 in) Pt No. 24938

Section E

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Anti freeze

Operation 1 Draining the cooling system

Operation 2 Radiator removal and replacement

Operation 3 Water pump renewal and replacement

Operation 4 Fan belt adjustment

Operation 5 Fan belt removal and replacement

Operation 6 Thermostat removal and replacement

Testing the thermostat

Temperature gauge and sender unit

Description

The engine is water cooled, assisted by a four bladed fan. The system
is of the positive circulation type, incorporating a centrifugal water
pump driven by a "V" belt from the crankshaft pulley. The fan is
mounted on a pulley pressed on to the front of the water pump
spindle. To pressurise the system and raise the boiling point of the
coolant, the radiator filler cap has a spring loaded valve set to open at

0.49 kg/cm²(7.0 lb/in²
A wax type thermostat in conjunction with a by-pass hose assists rapid
warming up and maintains a constant operating temperature.
The water temperature is indicated by a meter, housed in the left­hand gauge of the fascia. This is measured electrically by a
temperature sensitive sender unit screwed in to the thermostat
housing.

Routine maintenance

The coolant level should be regularly checked and topped up if
necessary. Check the cooling system periodically for leaks and ensure
the fan belt is correctly adjusted.

Anti-freeze mixture
In the winter months an anti-freeze must be added to the coolant in
the radiator to prevent damage to the cylinder block or radiator
caused by freezing.
Before refilling, the cooling system should be flushed out thoroughly.
Check the condition of all hoses and connections in the cooling and
heater systems.
It is advisable to pre-mix the anti-freeze with water in a separate
container before refilling the cooling system.
The percentage of anti-freeze solution in the cooling system will
determine the degree of protection and it is advisable to allow a
margin of safety in cases where lower temperatures than normal may
be encountered.
The quantities of anti-freeze for various degrees of protection are
given in a table at the end of this section.

Cooling system

Figure 1 Cylinder block drain plug

1. Drain plug

Figure 2 Radiator drain plug (if fitted)

1. Drain plug

The percentage of anti-freeze in the cooling system can be checked by
measuring the specific gravity of the coolant using a suitable
hydrometer.
It is permissible with modern anti-freeze formulation to leave the anti­freeze solution in the cooling system throughout the year, provided
that the protection afforded at the onset of Winter has not been
reduced by routine topping up of the coolant water during the
summer months.
Note: During summer months, if no anti-freeze is used a solution of
water plus 3.35 fluid oz of Reliant Coolant Inhibitor "R" part number
10374 MUST

be used to maintain the system free of corrosion.

Page 29

Operation 1 Draining the cooling system
Drain plugs are provided, one on the left hand side of the cylinder
block (Figure 1) and one in the base of the radiator (Figure 2).
Some vehicles may have a radiator without a drain plug fitted. To
drain the radiator on this type the bottom hose must be removed.

1. The vehicle should be standing on level ground with the
radiator filler cap removed when draining.
Note: Do not remove the radiator cap when the engine is hot as this
will cause very hot water and steam to be blown out of the filler neck
possibly leading to injury from scalding.

2. If anti-freeze is being used it is advised that the coolant be
collected in a clean container beneath the vehicle and retained for re­use.

3. Drain the cooling system and flush through by inserting a
hose pipe in the radiator filler orifice and allowing water to flow
through the system until clean.
Note: It is advisable to leave an indication within the vehicle that the

cooling system has been drained should the vehicle be left standing.
Running the engine without coolant can lead to severe internal
damage.

To refill

1. Replace drain plugs (refit bottom hose if removed).

2. If anti-freeze solution has been retained, return it to the

cooling system. If the liquid retained is not sufficient to fill the system,
add additional anti-freeze solution as required. Do not top up with
only water, otherwise the solution may be weakened making it less
effective in adverse conditions.

3. Do not over fill the radiator. The correct level of the coolant
in the radiator is reached when the top header tank is approximately
two thirds full. Some vehicles may have a radiator with a coolant level
indicator, visible in the filler neck.

Page 30

4. Start the engine and run up to normal operating
temperature with the radiator cap removed to clear any air-locks in
the system. Stop engine and check coolant level, topping up if
required.

5. Replace radiator filler cap.

Checking for leaks

After refilling the system, ensure that the hose connections are
securely tightened. Run the engine and check for water leaks.
In the event of the cooling system having been disturbed, i.e. cylinder
head removal or water pump change, it is recommended that a
"Barseal" pellet ("R" part No. 9947) is introduced through the radiator
filler neck. New gaskets should always be fitted and fixing nuts
tightened to the correct torque to prevent possible ingress of coolant
in to the oil system.

Operation 2 Radiator removal and replacement

The radiator, comprising an upper and lower tank connected by a
matrix, is mounted to the body by two support brackets. An overflow
pipe drains surplus coolant to the ground should the system be over
filled.

To remove (Figure 3)

1. Drain the cooling system as described in operation 1

2. Slacken hose clips and disconnect radiator hoses from

water pump and thermostat housing

3. Remove the four set screws and washers securing the

radiator to the support brackets located on each side of the radiator,
attached to the body.

4. Remove the radiator.

5. Slacken the hose clips and remove the hoses. Check the

condition and renew if necessary.
Refit in the reverse order, refill the cooling system as described earlier
in this section and check the cooling system for leaks.

Operation 3 Water pump removal and replacement
The water pump is mounted on the face of the cylinder block and
comprises a cast iron impeller mounted on a spindle with a seal and a
thrower. The seal, bearing against the impeller, prevents leaks around
the spindle. The coolant inlet is on the right of the pump body. A
fabricated pulley, fitted to the front of the spindle, seats the four
bladed fan, see Figure 4.
Leaking coolant from the seating face of the impeller could indicate a
worn gasket or impeller seal. If the latter is the case then a new pump,
available only as an assembly, will have to be fitted.

To remove

1. Drain the cooling system and remove the radiator as
described in operations 1 and 2.

2. Slacken the alternator adjusting screw and mounting bolts.
Pivot the alternator towards the engine and remove the fan belt.

3. Slacken the hose clips and disconnect the hoses from the
pump.

Page 31

4. Remove the four nuts and lock washers and withdraw the
pump assembly from the studs on the cylinder block, including the
gasket.

To replace

1. Clean the faces of the water pump and cylinder block and
fit a new gasket.

2. Fit the pump assembly over the studs and secure it to the
face of the cylinder block with four nuts and lock washers, tightening
to a torque of 1.66 to 2.07 kg/m (12 to 15 lb/ft).

3. Reconnect the heater and heat exchanger hoses.

4. Replace the fan belt and adjust the tension (Operation 4).

5. Refit radiator, connect hoses, refill the cooling system and

check for leaks.

Operation 4 Fan belt adjustment
Correct fan belt tension is important, otherwise the belt itself may be
damaged, or undue strain placed on the alternator or water pump
bearings. If the belt is too slack, poor battery charging could result.
The correct tension of the fan belt is such that when the belt is pushed
at a point midway between the alternator and water pump pulleys, a
deflection of 13 mm (½ inch) is necessary.

To adjust

1. Loosen the alternator front lower mounting bolt.

2. Slacken the adjustment locking screw at the front of the

alternator allowing the alternator to be moved on the slotted strap.

3. Pivot the alternator towards or away from the engine as
necessary until the correct belt tension is obtained.

4. Securely tighten the locking screw and lower front
mounting bolt.
Note: The lower front mounting bolt MUST be slackened completely
before making any adjustment as any strain on the lower fixing could
distort or damage the mountings.

Operation 5 Fan belt removal and replacement

1. Loosen the alternator front lower mounting bolt.

2. Slacken the adjustment locking screw at the front of the

alternator allowing the alternator to be moved on the slotted strap.

3. Pivot the alternator towards the engine and remove the fan
belt. It is vital that the alternator is pivoted to its fullest extent. Any
attempt to strain a new belt over the sides of the pulleys will easily
cause damage to the belt.

Operation 6 Thermostat removal and replacement

The wax type thermostat is located in a housing at the front of the
cylinder head. When the coolant is cold, the thermostat is in the
closed position and water flow is restricted within the engine by
means of a by-pass hose system (through the heater matrix and the
inlet manifold heat exchanger). Coolant flowing through the by-pass
returns to the water pump. When the thermostat is fully open,
complete circulation through the engine block, cylinder head and
radiator takes place.

To remove

1. Drain the cooling system as described in operation 1 and
remove the top hose.

2. Unscrew the three set screws, complete with lock washers.
Lift off the thermostat housing and remove the thermostat.
(see Section F, Figure 13)

Testing the thermostat

If it is suspected that the thermostat is not operating correctly, it

Figure 5 Fan belt adjustment

1. Adjustment locking screw

2. Alternator front lower mounting bolt

may be tested in the following manner:­Suspend the thermostat in water in a suitable container, gradually
heating the water. Check the water temperature frequently using a
thermometer. The thermostat or thermometer must not directly
touch the container or the reading will not be accurate.
The thermostat should start to open at 86 to 89°C (187 to 193° F) and
be fully opened when the water is boiling.
If the thermostat does not operate correctly then a new one must be
fitted. It is not possible to repair or adjust this item.

To replace

1. Position thermostat in its housing and fit a new gasket.

2. Place the thermostat cover with the outlet facing forward
and secure with the three set screws and lock washers (do not over
tighten).

3. Refit the top hose and refill the cooling system. Check for
water leaks.

Temperature gauge and sender unit - Fault diagnosis

The temperature gauge reading depends upon the variation of
resistance of a thermistor.
If faulty readings are suspected on the gauge, check the gauge and the
sender unit as follows:-

Diagnosis

1. With the ignition switched on, disconnect the wire from the
sender unit on the cylinder head, the temperature gauge needle
should then be at the cold mark.

2. Now hold the wire to earth and the gauge needle should
move all the way across to the hot mark.
This would indicate that the gauge itself is operating correctly.

The above result would suggest that inaccurate readings are due to
the sender unit, which must be replaced, a fault in the wiring, a loose
connection, a faulty voltage stabiliser or a defective gauge. If the
gauge is deemed defective, the unit will need to be replaced, see
Section T.
.

Page 32

0.92 litres

1.84 litres

Cooling system specification

Cooling system

Capacity including heater 3.69 litres (6.5 pints)

Radiator

Cap pressure 0.492kg/cm² (7 lb/in²)

Thermostat

Type Wax
Starts to open 86-89°C (187-193°F)
Fully open 103°C (218°F)
Opening distance 7.11 mm (0.28 in)

Fan
Fan Diameter (4 blade) 254 mm (10 in)
Belt tension 13 mm (½ in) total free movement

Water pump
Type Centrifugal
Pulley ratio 1.172:1

Anti-freeze quantities

Solidifies

At

°C (°F)

-8 (+17)

-14 (+17)

-19 (-3)

-29 (-20)

-39 (-38)

Volume

In water

10

15

20

25

30

40

50

%

Fluid

Down to

°C (°F)

-4 (+25)

-7 (+20)

-9 (+15)

-13 (+9)

-16 (+3)

-25 (-13) -48 (-54)

-37 (-34) -58 (-72)

Amount of

Anti-freeze

required

0.37 litres

(0.65 pints) 1.016

0.55 litres

(0.96 pints) 1.026

0.74 litres
(1.3 pints)

(1.62 pints)

1.11 litres

(1.94 pints)

1.48 litres
(2.6 pints)

(3.25 pints)

Specific

gravity

1.034

1.042

1.050

1.065

1.080

Page 33

Section F

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Engine service operations, engine removal, hoist bracket

Operation 1 Engine removal

Operation 2 Flywheel and ring gear removal and
replacement

Operation 3 Sump removal and replacement

Operation 4 Oil pump removal (sump removed)

Operation 5 Crankshaft rear cover and oil seal replacement
(with sump removed)

Operation 6 Timing chain cover, oil seal and gasket
replacement (without engine removed)

Operation 7 Timing chain replacement (with front cover
removed)

Operation 8 Camshaft sprocket alignment (timing chain
cover and timing chain removed)

Operation 9 Cylinder head removal (without engine
removal)

Operation 10 Cylinder head decarbonise (with cylinder head
removed)

Operation 11 Pistons, connecting rods and bearings
replacement (with cylinder head and sump
removed

Page 34

Operation 12 Crankshaft removal and installation (with sump,
front cover, flywheel, rear seal cove, connecting
rods and crankshaft sprocket removed

Operation 13 Camshaft removal and installation (with timing
chain and sprocket removed)

Operation 14 Camshaft bearing removal and replacement
(with camshaft removed)

Operation 15 Cylinder liner replacement

Operation 16 Engine rebuild

Operation 16 Valve clearance - tappet adjustment

Stud removal

Description

The 850cc engine is a four cylinder in-line unit having a die cast
aluminium cylinder head with cast iron valve guides and sintered iron
valve seats. Die cast aluminium is also used for the cylinder block
which incorporates removable wet liners. The forged steel crankshaft
is mounted on three steel backed main bearings

Routine maintenance

The engine oil level should be checked weekly and topped up if
necessary to keep the oil capacity at 3.13 litres (5.5 pints). It is vital
that this capacity is kept constant for any appreciable drop in the level
will result in poor lubrication and possible engine damage. To ensure
the lubrication system is kept clean and free from impurities the
engine oil should be changed and a new oil filter fitted every 6,000
miles (10,000 km).

Engine service operations

The following service operations give detailed instructions for
servicing and dismantling all the major engine assemblies. Where it is
necessary to remove ancillary components and parts, refer to the
appropriate sections of this manual.

Before re-assembly during any operation, all components should be
thoroughly cleaned, paying attention to joint faces and bearing
surfaces. Any local high spots or burrs on the joint faces should be
carefully removed using a fine file. Ensure that any piece of gasket or
dirt in a blind tapped hole is removed during cleaning, as the bolt or
screw may bottom before the bolt head abuts the mating part. When
tightening a bolt which bottoms a characteristic "springing" may be
felt. If this occurs, the bolt must be removed and the hole cleaned out.

The engine and gearbox assembly is removed from the vehicle by
lifting it through the bonnet aperture. This operation will be greatly
facilitated by the use of a hoist bracket that locates on the rocker box
studs. The bracket can be constructed as shown in Figure 1. The use of
this bracket plus the availability of a hoist is assumed in the following
information.

Figure 1 Hoist bracket for engine removal

Operation 1 Engine removal and installation

To remove

1. Remove nuts and washers from bonnet hinges and remove
bonnet lid.

2. Disconnect battery.

3. Drain cooling system.

4. Drain engine oil.

5. Remove radiator complete with hoses (Section E).

6. Disconnect the heater hoses from the engine and bulkhead

and remove.

7. Remove the fresh air hose from the heater unit and
bulkhead stub.

8. Remove the air cleaner body and element.

9. Disconnect the fuel pipe from the tank at the pump and

plug to avoid ingress of dirt. Remove the pump to carburettor fuel
pipe taking care not to damage the pipe when unclipping from the "P"
clip on the rocker cover. Remove the supporting bar for the "P" clip
from the rocker stud.

10. Remove the heater hose clip from the remaining stud.

11. Disconnect starter motor lead.

12. Disconnect alternator harness plug, secured by a spring clip.

13. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the carburettor

bracket.

14. Release the trunnion and disconnect the choke cable.

15. Remove the two nuts securing the exhaust downpipe to the

manifold studs

16. Remove the nut and washer securing the exhaust support
bracket to the bell housing allowing the exhaust system to hang clear
of the engine.

17. Remove the nuts and washers from the front engine
mountings.

18. From inside the car, prise out the gear lever gaiter and
remove the gear lever knob. Remove the gaiter from the lever.
Remove the centre console. prise out the retaining "C" clip from ball
joint cap at the base of the gear lever and lift out the lever.

19. Disconnect the harness earth leads from the front engine
cover adjacent to the thermostat housing.

20. Disconnect the HT and LT leads from the coil.

21. Remove the oil pressure warning light lead from the sender

on the engine block and disconnect the pipe to the oil pressure gauge
if fitted.

Page 35

22. Disconnect the lead from the temperature gauge sender on
the thermostat housing.

23. Disconnect the speedometer cable at the gearbox.

24. Disconnect the clutch cable from the operating arm,

remove the locknut and adjusting nut and withdraw the cable from
the trunnion.

25. Pull the clutch outer cable from its retaining hole in the
engine back plate.

26. Remove nuts, bolts and lock washers connecting the
driveshaft to the gearbox output flange.

27. Remove the upper two bolts from the gearbox mounting
bracket and disconnect the earth braid. Slacken the lower two bolts
securing the gearbox mount to the chassis frame cross member.

28. Install the engine hoist bracket on to the rocker cover studs
(Figure 1) securing it with the rocker cover nuts.

29. Attach suitable lifting tackle to the hoist bracket.

30. Remove the two remaining gearbox mounting bolts.

Support the engine and gearbox assembly on the hoist.

31. Pull the engine and gearbox slightly forwards and lift to
clear the front engine mountings. Lift the assembly clear of the
bonnet area and lower on to a suitable base, taking care not to
damage the engine, sump etc.

32. Remove the bell housing bolts and separate the engine and
gearbox.

33. Remove ancillary components and carry out the necessary
service or repair operations.

To replace

1. Refit all ancillary components.

2. Re-assemble engine and gearbox.

3. Position engine hoist bracket on to rocker studs.

4. Attach suitable lifting tackle and suspend the assembly over

the engine compartment.

5. Carefully lower the engine and gearbox assembly and
manoeuvre to locate the front engine mounting lugs on to the front
engine mountings in the frame.

6. Attach the nuts and washers on the front engine mountings
and leave loose.

7. Raise the gearbox and locate the gearbox rear mounting
bracket to the frame, securing with bolts, nuts and lock washers.

8. Tighten front engine mounting nuts.

9. Refit the driveshaft securing with nuts, bolts and lock

washers.

10. Reconnect the speedometer cable to the gearbox.

11. Refit the clutch cable into the retaining hole in the engine

back plate and reconnect the clutch cable to the operating arm. Adjust
the clutch.

12. Refit the exhaust pipe to the manifold with a new gasket
and secure with new brass nuts.

13. Refit the exhaust support bracket to the bell housing.

14. Remove the engine hoist bracket and replace the heater

hose clip to the rocker cover stud.

15. Reconnect the fuel pipe top both carburettor and fuel
pump, securing with the "P" clip on the rear rocker cover stud.

16. Reconnect the fuel supply pipe to the pump.

17. Refit earth leads from harness to front timing cover bolt.

18. Reconnect starter motor lead.

19. Reconnect oil pressure light sender lead and oil pressure
gauge pipe (if fitted).

20. Reconnect lead to temperature gauge sender.

21. Reconnect HT and LT leads to coil.

22. From inside the car, refit the gear lever and secure with the
"C" clip.

23. Refit the centre console and secure with four screws. Push
the gear lever gaiter over the lever and locate in the aperture in the
centre console.

24. Refit the gear lever knob.

25. Reconnect the choke and accelerator cables.

26. Re-assemble the air filter.

27. Refit heater hoses.

28. Replace radiator and reconnect top and bottom hoses.

29. Refit heater fresh air hose.

30. Refill engine and gearbox with recommended oils.

31. Refill cooling system.

32. Refit bonnet.

33. Reconnect battery.

Operation 2 Flywheel and ring gear removal and
replacement

Flywheel removal

1. Remove the gearbox (see Section G)

2. Unscrew the six set screws, complete with lock washers,

and remove the clutch cover and driven plate from the flywheel.

3. Release the tab washer and unscrew the three set screws.
Remove the flywheel assembly from the flywheel.

Starter ring gear removal

1. Drill a hole 6.35 mm (0.25 in) diameter at the point of
intersection of a scribed line between any two teeth and a scribed line
mid way between the root diameter and the inside diameter of the
ring gear. Ensure that the hole is not drilled through the ring gear in to
the flywheel, as this will interfere with the subsequent balance of the
flywheel.

2. Hold the flywheel assembly in a soft jaw vice.

3. Place a cloth over the ring gear as a precaution against
flying shrapnel.
Warning: Ensure adequate protection, particularly for the eyes to
prevent injury from the possibility of flying fragments when the ring
gear is split.

4. Place a cold chisel immediately above the centre line of the
drilled hole and strike sharply to split the ring gear.

Figure 2 Fitting flywheel bearing

Page 36

wear is evident then knock the old one out and fit a new one using
special tool no. RT 7485 (Figure 2). Needle roller bearings have been
used as an alternative to the phosphor bronze bush and care must be
taken when replacing these. It is vital to note that the hardened
square end face of the bearing must face the tool used to press in the
bearing. Use of the rolled end of the bearing will distort the shell and
damage the rollers. In many cases the part number or makers name
will be stamped in to the hardened end to aid identification. If this
does not apply, great care must be observed to identify the correct
end.

2. Fit the flywheel to the crankshaft locating it over the dowel.

3. Secure the flywheel with three set screws and a new tab

washer tightening to a torque of 4.03 kg/m (29 lb/ft). The tabs on the
washer should be bent over to secure the set screws.

4. Check the flywheel for alignment using a dial indicator
gauge. A 0.08 to 0.13 mm (0.003 to 0.005 in) run out is acceptable. If
this is exceeded the flywheel needs to be renewed.

5. Using special tool no. RT 7485 as a centraliser, or if this is
not available an input shaft from a spare gearbox, replace the clutch
disc and pressure plate assembly on to the flywheel, securing evenly

Figure 3 Centralising the clutch

Refitting

1. Heat up the new ring gear uniformly to a temperature of
200°C.

2. Place the flywheel on a stable flat surface, clutch face
uppermost and clean the ring gear locating surface.

3. Slip the heated new ring gear in to place and hold in
position until it contracts under cooling sufficiently to grip the
flywheel.

4. Allow the assembly to fully cool naturally to avoid
distortion.

Refitting the flywheel assembly

1. Clean the mating face between the flywheel and the end of
the crankshaft. Check that the locating dowel is undamaged and
ensure that the spigot bush is in place. Check the bush for wear. If

Figure 4 Engine, cylinder block -
exploded (page 38)

1. Cylinder block 21. Tube, dipstick 41. Spring 61. Washer

2. Stud, cylinder head 22. Mounting plate 42. Ball 62. Gasket

3. Stud 23. Gasket 43. Insert 63. Set screw

4. Stud 24. Stud, plate to block 44. Mounting plate 64. Lock washer

5. Stud 25. Nut, plate to block 45. Dowel 65. Washer

6. Stud, water pump 26. Lock washer 46. Dowel 66. Nut

7. Stud, alternator strap 27. Cover, timing chain 47. Set screw 67. Washer

8. Stud, fuel pump 28 Gasket 48. Set screw 68. Nut

9. Stud, bearing housing cap 29. Oil seal, cover 49. Washer 69. Lock washer

10. Washer 30. Bolt 50. Lock washer 70. Restrictor cup

11. Nut 31. Bolt 51. Rear oil seal 71. Mounting rubber

12. Core plug, camshaft 32. Bolt 52. Rear cover 72. Washer

13. Bridge piece front 33. Lock washer 53. Gasket 73. Nut

14. Bridge piece rear 34. Nut 54. Set screw

15. Packing, bridge piece 35. Oil filter 55. Set screw

16. Screw 36. Oil filter adapter 56. Washer

17. Cylinder liner 37. Plug 57. Lock washer

18. Plug, water drain 38. Oil pressure switch 58. Dowel

19. Washer, plug 39. Oil pressure valve retainer 59. Sump

20. Dipstick 40. Washer 60. Sump drain plug

with six set screws and lock washers to a torque of 1.66 to 2.07 kg/m
(12 to 15 lb/ft) see Figure 3. The pressure plate assembly should be
tapped with a hide mallet to ensure it is square on the flywheel.

6. Check clutch run-out does not exceed 0.381 mm (0.015 in)
on the steel thrust disc.

7. Refit the gearbox.

Operation 3 Sump removal and replacement

1. Drain engine oil.

2. Undo the 15 set screws and remove the spacers, lock

washers, sump and gasket.

3. Clean the sump and the cylinder block facing.

4. To eliminate possible oil linkage, the two centre front and

rear sump fixing screws should be thoroughly cleaned, then
generously coated with "Hylomar" sealant before refitting.

5. Fit new gasket, replace sump and tighten the 15 set screws,
spacers and lock washers evenly.

Page 37

Figure 4 Engine, cylinder block - exploded

Page 38

Operation 4 Oil pump removal and replacement
(with sump removed)

1. Rotate engine to TDC (Section T)

2. Disconnect spark plug leads from terminals.

3. Disconnect the low tension lead from the coil.

4. Unscrew the single retaining bolt at the securing the

distributor clamp to the cylinder block, complete with washer and lock
washer, and remove the distributor. Do not disturb the actual clamp
nut and bolt unless the ignition timing is to be reset.

5. Unscrew two nuts complete with lock washers and remove
the oil pump assembly, including strainer, from the cylinder block
(Figure 5).

Figure 6 Oil pump drive shaft shims

6. Drift out the pin securing the thrust muff to the

distributor/oil pump driveshaft which can then be withdrawn upwards
through the distributor housing.

7. Inspect the oil pump and drive shaft assemblies for wear or
damage and renew if required. Note: In production, it has sometimes
been necessary to fit one or two 0.127 mm (0.005 in) shims between
the oil pump driveshaft bush and the cylinder block (Figure 6). It is not
necessary when dismantling the pump to remove the drive bush or
shim, if fitted. However, if the bush and shim are removed, it is
essential that they are both replaced when re-assembling. failure to
do this will allow excessive end float of the distributor driveshaft
resulting in poor meshing of the oil pump drive gear with resultant
engine noise.
The backlash between camshaft gear and driveshaft gear should not
exceed 0.0762 mm (0.003 in).
Re-assemble in reverse order. Refit the pump to the block, ensuring
that the engine is set to TDC.
When replacing the oil pump driveshaft ensure that the large "D" of
the driving gear offset dog is facing towards the cylinder block with
the slot aligned in a "5 minutes past 7 o'clock" position.

Operation 5 Crankshaft rear cover and oil seal replacement
(with flywheel removed)

1. Unscrew the six set screws and remove the oil seal cover

complete with gasket and oil seal, from the cylinder block.

2. Using a suitable tool, press the old seal out of the cover.
Note: On no account try to drift or prise the seal out as this will
damage/distort the oil seal housing.

3. Carefully press a new seal in to the rear cover. To ensure
the seal is seated correctly, use a press tool similar to that shown in
(Figure 7).

4. Locate the two dowels of the rear cover in the cylinder
block and then secure the cover with the six set screws and lock
washers. (Figure 8)

Operation 6 Timing chain cover, oil seal and gasket
replacement (engine still in car)

1. Drain the cooling system.

2. Remove the radiator, complete with hoses from the vehicle.

Page 39

Figure 7 Replacing rear cover oil seal

Figure 9 Extracting front cover oil seal

Figure 8 Fitting rear cover

3. Slacken alternator mountings and remove fan belt.

4. Unscrew four nuts and lock washers and remove the water

pump from the cylinder block.

5. Unscrew the mounting bolt and pull off the crankshaft
pulley.

6. Remove seven bolts, two nuts and lock washers and detach
the timing cover from the cylinder block.

7. Extract the oil seal from the cover using special tool no. RT
7480 and drive handle part no. 550 (Figure 9).

8. Fit new oil seal using special tool no. RT 7480 and drive
handle locating as shown in (Figure 10).

9. With the aid of centralising tool no. RT 7481 fit the timing
chain cover with a new gasket to the cylinder block, securing with the
seven bolts, two nuts and lock washers.

10. Refit crankshaft pulley, water pump and fan belt. Secure
and tighten alternator.

11. Refit the radiator, reconnect the hoses and refill the cooling
system.

Page 40

Figure 10 Replacing front cover oil seal

Operation 7 Timing chain replacement (with front cover
removed)

1. Release locking plate, unscrew two bolts, remove camshaft

sprocket and lift off timing chain.

2. Fit new timing chain to crankshaft and camshaft sprocket
which can be secured to the camshaft with the two bolts and the
locking plate.

3. Check the valve timing, ensuring that the timing mark on
the camshaft sprocket aligns with the woodruff key on the crankshaft
(Figure 12).

4. Inspect the cam chain tensioner blade for wear and replace
if necessary.

Operation 8 Camshaft sprocket alignment

1. First ensure that the timing mark on the camshaft sprocket

aligns exactly with the woodruff key on the crankshaft to align with
either no. 1 or no. 4 piston on TDC.

2. Release the locking plate, unscrew two bolts and remove

Figure 11 Centralising front cover

the locking plate and screws.

3. Ensure that the timing mark, a notch, on the camshaft end
aligns with the woodruff key on the crankshaft.

4. Remove the crankshaft woodruff key.

5. Temporarily refit both sprockets.

6. Check the alignment by placing a straight edge across the

teeth of both sprockets.

7. Correct any misalignment by fitting an alternative spacer
shim behind the crankshaft sprocket. Alternative spacer shims are
available in increments of 0.127 mm (0.005 in).

8. Remove the sprockets.

9. Refit the woodruff key.

10. Fit a new camshaft sprocket locking plate, refit the bolts

and bend the tabs to lock them.

Operation 9 Cylinder head removal (with engine in car)

1. Disconnect battery.

2. Remove heater fresh air hose.

3. Drain cooling system.

4. Release the two retaining clips and remove air cleaner body

and element.

5. Remove air cleaner base plate from carburettor.

6. Remove the oil filler cap and disconnect the breather hose

from the carburettor.

7. Disconnect the heater and inlet manifold heat exchanger
hoses from the water pump.

8. Remove the radiator top hose.

9. Remove the distributor cap and leads.

10. To allow easier access, remove the distributor via the single

fixing bolt holding the clamp to the cylinder block.

11. Remove the rocker cover nuts and rocker cover, complete
with heater hose and fuel pipe clips.

12. Remove the petrol supply pipe from the carburettor plug to
avoid dirt ingress. Remove the pipe from the clip on the side of
cylinder head and tie back clear of the engine to improve access.

13. Disconnect the lead from the temperature gauge sender on
the thermostat housing.

14. Disconnect the accelerator cable from the bracket on the
carburettor and pull clear.

Page 41

15. Disconnect the choke cable from the carburettor.

16. Disconnect the heat exchanger hoses from the exchanger.

17. Disconnect the advance/retard pipe and flame trap (if

fitted) from the carburettor.

18. Disconnect the accelerator return spring from the
carburettor.

19. Remove the nut securing the carburettor abutment bracket
to the carburettor.

20. Remove the remaining nut securing the carburettor to the
manifold. remove the carburettor with gasket.

21. Remove the nuts and washers and detach the heat
exchanger adapter from the inlet manifold.

22. Remove the drip tray complete with gasket.

23. Remove the four nuts securing the rocker shaft assembly

and detach the rocker shaft.

24. Remove the eight push rods keeping them in the correct
order.

25. Remove the two brass nuts and disconnect the exhaust
downpipe from the exhaust manifold.

26. Remove the three small cylinder head nuts with washers on
the spark plug side of the head.

27. Remove the three bolts and washers holding the
thermostat cover on to the head.

28. Remove the dipstick support bar and earth cable from the
long cylinder head stud.

29. Remove the 12 nuts and washers securing the cylinder head
to the cylinder block.

30. Carefully lift the cylinder head complete with inlet and
exhaust manifolds from the cylinder block.

Replace in reverse order, after scrupulously cleaning the mating faces
and fitting a new gasket. To ensure a good seal when replacing the
cylinder head, smear grease around the metal rings of the gasket bore
eyelets.
Tighten the cylinder head nuts progressively up to a torque of 3.46
kg/m (25 lb/ft) in the sequence shown in Figure 14. The three smaller
nuts along the spark plug side of the head should be tightened to a
torque of 2.07 kg/m (15 lb/ft).

Figure 12 Alignment of camshaft sprocket and woodruff key

1. Timing mark

2. Woodruff key

Figure 13 Cylinder head and manifolds - exploded view

1. Cylinder head 17. Rocker cover 33. Manifold nut

2. Stud 18. Rocker cover gasket 34. Lock washer

3. Stud 19. "P" clip 35. Stud

4. Stud 20. Support bracket 36. Washer

5. Stud 21. Washer 37. Nut

6. Gasket 22. Nut 38. Drip tray

7. Oil way plug 23. Oil filler cap 39. Heat exchanger

8. Core plug 24. "O" ring 40. Stud

9. Return spring plate 25. Breather pipe 41. Gasket

10. Hose connection 26. Exhaust manifold gasket 42. Nut

11. Temperature sender 27. Exhaust manifold 43. Lock washer

12. Thermostat 28. Downpipe stud 44. Hose

13. Water outlet branch 29. Manifold nut 45. Hose

14. Gasket 30. Washer 46. Clip

15. Set screw 31. Inlet manifold

16. Washer 32. Manifold stud

Operation 10 Cylinder head decarbonise
(Head removed)

1. Remove the spark plugs.

2. Remove the inlet and exhaust manifolds and carefully

remove the gasket.

3. Using a suitable valve spring compressor, remove the
valves, keeping them in the correct order. Retain the valve caps,
springs and collets for inspection.

4. Check the valve guides for wear and renew if necessary.

5. If valve guides are worn then remove them using special
tool RT 7478 (Figure 18).

6. Examine the valve seats for pitting and wear. Re-face if
necessary, removing the bare minimum of material.

7. Examine the valves for pitting or wear and re-face if
necessary. Renew any valves having bent or worn stems.

8. Test the valve springs for length to the dimensions given in
the data at the end of this section.

9. Remove carbon deposits from the combustion chambers
and ports using a hardwood scraper. Polish with wire wool.

Page 42

Figure 14 Cylinder head nuts
tightening sequence

10. Clean the face of the cylinder head and remove all trace of

carbon and high spots.

11. Clean out the waterways. If deposits exist on the piston
crowns proceed as follows:­(a) Turn the crankshaft until pistons 1 and 4 are at the top.
(b) fill the cylinders of pistons 2 and 3 with clean non fluffy rag
to stop carbon falling in to the bores. Cover the cam follower
apertures.
(c) carefully, without scoring the crowns, clean the carbon
deposits leaving a narrow band approximately 3.1 mm (1/8 in) around
the perimeter to maintain the gas seal. Avoid carbon deposits
entering the waterways.
(d) Turn the crankshaft until pistons 2 and 3 are uppermost and
repeat.

Re-assembly and replacement

1. Clean the cylinder block face removing all traces of carbon
and any high spots.

2. Replace the valve guides in the cylinder head using special
tool R 7478 (Figure 15).

3. Lap in the valves using fine grinding paste until a gas tight
seal is attained. Ensure valves are refitted in their original positions
and that all trace of grinding paste is removed.

4. Lubricate the valve stems with engine oil and assemble the
cylinder head. Ensure that the valve spring collars an collets are
correctly seated. renew the valve stem seals.
Refit the cylinder head using a new gasket.

Operation 11 Pistons, connecting rods and bearing
replacement (head and sump removed)

To remove

1. Remove oil pump assembly (Operation 4).

2. Turn the crankshaft to bring numbers 1 and 4 connecting

rod bolts to an accessible position.

3. Check the identifying marks on the bearing caps and
connecting rods. Mark if necessary.

Figure 15 Valve guide removal and
replacement

1. Valve guide removal

2. Valve guide replacement

3. Valve guide protection sleeve

4. Release the tab washers, unscrew the bolts and remove the
big end bearing caps complete with shells

5. Push the piston/con rod assemblies out through the top
and carefully withdraw, keeping the end caps with their respective
con rods.

Overhaul

1. Immerse the pistons and con rod assemblies in hot water
for a few minutes. remove the circlips retaining the gudgeon pins.

2. Using a suitable drift, remove the gudgeon pins and
disconnect the con rods from the pistons.

3. Check the small end bushes for wear and, if necessary,
remove the old bushes using a hand press and fit new ones. Ensure
that the oil hole in the new bush is correctly aligned with the oil hole
in the con rod.

4. Having fitted the new bushes, check that the gudgeon pins
will fit. It might be necessary to ream out the bushes (using an
expanding reamer) to achieve a tight sliding fit.
Note: It is vital during this operation that the bush is reamed squarely
to the con rod to ensure correct alignment.

5. Remove the piston rings and clean.

6. Clean the pistons, removing all carbon deposits, particularly

from the ring grooves.

7. Assemble the pistons to the connecting rods using new
circlips. It might be necessary to heat the pistons in hot water to
enable the gudgeon pins to be pushed through.
Note: Engines up to number 5K/85/100226 have angle con rods which
must be assembled with the cutaway to the camshaft side.

8. Before fitting the piston rings to the pistons, place each ring
in its appropriate liner to measure the ring gap. This should be
between 0.17 to 0.30 mm (0.007 to 0.012 in).

9. Fit the piston rings to the pistons, starting with the oil
scraper ring, followed by the taper compression ring, then the
compression ring.

Page 43

Figure 16 Compressing rings for
refitting pistons

Note: The "top" mark on the taper compression ring must face
uppermost. The upper groove in the piston accommodates the plain
compression ring.

10. Insert the piston and connecting rod assemblies into the
appropriate bores, ensuring that the piston crown arrow or front
marking is facing the front of the cylinder block. The piston rings
should be rotated so the gaps are equally spaced around the
circumference of the pistons. Compress the rings using a piston ring
compressor (Figure 16) and gently tap the assemblies into place.

11. Fit new big end bearing shells to the rods and caps .

12. Locate the rods on to the crankshaft, position the end caps

and secure in position with the bolts and new tab washers. Tighten to
a torque of 2.9 kg/m (21 lb/ft). Ensure that the correct caps are fitted
to the corresponding rods.

13. Replace the oil pump assembly, sump and cylinder head.

Operation 12 Crankshaft removal and installation
(sump, front cover, flywheel, rear cover,
connecting rods and camshaft sprocket
removed

1. Remove two bolts and lock washers and remove camshaft

retaining plate.

2. Unscrew two nuts and lock washers and remove front
engine plate and gasket from cylinder block.

3. Unscrew four set screws and remove the rear engine plate
from the cylinder block.

4. Remove four screws and detach the two bridge pieces from
the cylinder block.

5. Remove three main bearing caps each secured by nuts and
lock washers.

6. The crankshaft can now be lifted from the cylinder block.

Overhaul

1. Inspect and test crankshaft journals for wear.

2. Fit new main bearing shells to crankcase and main bearing

caps. See data for reground journal undersize bearings available.

3. position the crankshaft into the new shells and fit rear and
centre main bearing caps.

4. Locate the upper half of the thrust washer in the register on
the inside face of the crankshaft main bearing bore in the crankcase.

5. Position the front main bearing cap and locate the lower
half of the thrust washer in the register on the cap inside face.
Note: The thrust washer is fitted so that the thrust face, identified by
oil grooves, bears against the crankshaft ground face.

6. Fit new bearing cap nuts and lock washers and tighten to a
torque of 3.31 kg/m (24 lb/ft).

Check the crankshaft end float as follows:

(a) Assemble the two halves of the outer thrust washer in the
register on the outside face of the front bearing cap and block. Ensure
that the oil grooves face forwards.
(b) Position the steel countersunk thrust washer against the bi­metal thrust washer halves, with its countersunk aperture facing
rearwards.
(c) Refit crankshaft sprocket spacer and sprocket.
(d) Refit crankshaft pulley and secure with bolt, washer and
lock washer.
(e) Rotate crankshaft to confirm freedom of movement. Secure
a dial gauge to the crank case with the pointer bearing on a machined
section of a crankshaft balance weight.
(f) Carefully tap the rear of the crankshaft forwards to force
the assembly against the dial gauge plunger. Zero the gauge.
(g) Now tap the front pulley of the crankshaft towards the rear
and note the end float on the gauge. This should indicate 0.0764 to

0.279 mm (0.003 to 0.011 in).
(h) If necessary, adjust the end float by replacing the thrust
washers with new ones of a different thickness. See data at the end of
this section. refit the front cap with the replacement thrust washers
and check the end float again.
Note: The end float can also be checked using feeler gauges between
the thrust washer and the bearing face of the crankshaft.

To re-assemble
Replace all components in reverse order.
Note: When refitting the crankcase bridge pieces care should be taken
to ensure that they are completely flush with the crankcase flange.
Also it is essential to fit new cork seas when refitting bridge pieces.

Operation 13 Camshaft removal and installation
(timing chain and sprocket removed)

1. Remove engine assembly (see operation 1)

2. Remove rocker cover and gasket.

3. Remove rocker shaft.

4. Remove 8 pushrods keeping them in their correct order.

5. remove cylinder head and distributor.

6. remove sump (see operation 3)

7. Remove two nuts and lift the oil pump assembly complete

with strainer from the cylinder block.

8. Knock out the pin securing the thrust muff to the distributor
and oil pump drive shaft and remove the shaft upwards through the
distributor aperture.

9. remove the two bolts and lock washers securing the
camshaft retaining plate.

10. Undo three nuts and washers and remove the front engine
plate from the cylinder block, complete with gasket.

11. Lift the cam followers out through the cylinder block and
carefully withdraw the camshaft.

Page 44

Figure 17 Engine, crankshaft and
camshaft - exploded view

1. Crankshaft 23. Pulley 45. Rocker LH

2. Flywheel assembly 24. Key 46. Rocker RH

3. Flywheel 25. Spacer 47. Rocker shaft

4. Flywheel ring gear 26. Bolt 48. Bracket

5. Dowel 27. Washer 49. Bracket

6. Spigot bearing 28. Lock washer 50. Screw

7. Flywheel tab washer 29. Main bearing shell 51. Washer

8. Set screw 30. Camshaft 52. Nut

9. Connecting rod 31. Camshaft bearing 53. Rocker shaft spring

10. Small end bearing 32. Core plug 54. Rocker shaft end spring

11. Big end bearing shell 33. Plate 55. Washer

12. Bolt 34. Bolt 56. Split pin

13. Plate 35. Lock washer 57. Plug

14. Piston assembly 36. Sprocket 58. Inlet valve

15. Compression ring 37. Plate 59. Valve seat

16. Taper ring 38. Screw 60. Valve spring

17. Oil Scraper ring 39. Timing chain 61. Valve spring cup

18. Gudgeon pin 40. Timing chain tensioner 62. Valve stem seal

19. Circlip 41. Cam follower 63. Valve cotter

20. Crankshaft thrust washer 42. Push rod 64. Exhaust valve

21. Crankshaft thrust washer 43. Screw 65. Valve seat

22. Sprocket 44. Lock nut 66. Valve guide

Page 45

To Replace
Te-assemble in the reverse order, fitting new gaskets where
applicable.

Note: When refitting the distributor drive shaft, ensure the large "D"
of the driving gear offset dog is facing towards the block at No. 1
piston, i.e. slot in a "5 minutes past 7 o'clock" position. Take the
opportunity of checking the camshaft end-float which should be
within 0.64 to 0.16 mm (0.0025 to 0.0065 in). Pull the camshaft out
against the retaining plate and insert a feeler gauge between the
groove and retaining plate. The camshaft retaining plate fitted as
original equipment is 4.621 mm (0.182 in) thick. A service plate 5.258
mm (0.207 in) is available to counteract excessive end float but it may,
of course, be necessary to reduce the thickness of the service plate to
obtain the correct end float, dependent on the amount of wear.

Operation 14 Camshaft bearing removal and replacement
(with camshaft removed)

Removal

1. Remove flywheel (see operation 2).

2. Unscrew four set screws and remove the rear engine plate

from the cylinder block.

3. Drill a hole in the camshaft core plug and prise from the
cylinder block.

4. Press out the rear, centre and front camshaft bearings using
general tool 18G 124A and tool No. 7482 (Figure 18) as follows:
(a) Insert general tool and position pilot, mandrel and
horseshoe as shown in Figure 19.
(b) Applying firm pressure, rotate the general tool handle until
the camshaft bearing is removed completely from its location.
(c) To remove centre and front camshaft bearings position the
general tool and components as shown in Figure 20 and Figure 21.

To replace

1. To replace camshaft bearings position the general tool and
components as shown in Figure 22,23,and 24.
Note: Ensure that the oil holes in the bearing shells align with those in
the block

Page 46

Figure 19 Removing camshaft rear bearing

1. Pilot

2. Bearing

3. Mandrel

4. Horseshoe

Figure 20 Removing camshaft centre bearing

1. Horseshoe

2. Mandrel

3. Bearing

4. Pilot

Figure 21 Removing camshaft front bearing

1. Horseshoe

2. Mandrel

3. Bearing

4. Pilot

Figure 24 Replacing camshaft centre bearing

1. Pilot

2. Bearing

3. Mandrel

4. Small "D" washer

5. Horseshoe

Figure 23 Replacing camshaft rear bearing

1. Pilot

2. Mandrel

3. Bearing

4. Small "D" washer

5. Horseshoe

Operation 15 Cylinder liner replacement

Follow the dismantling procedure outlined in operations 1 to 15 and
then continue as follows:-

1. Extract the four liners from the cylinder block using a tool
similar to that shown in Figure 25.

2. Remove all traces of sealing compound from both the liners
and their seats in the cylinder block.

3. Measure the liners for taper, ovality and maximum wear.

Note: Cylinder liners are manufactured in different grade sizes and are

graded as high, low or mean. Pistons are similarly graded and it is
important that a piston and cylinder liner must be of the same grade.
The grade of the piston is stamped on the crown with the appropriate
letter, i.e. H=high, M=mean, L=low.

The grade of the cylinder liner is marked on the outside wall with the
appropriate letter (Figure 26). Pistons and liners are available from
the spares department of your dealer in matched pairs.

It should be noted that if pistons or liners are supplied separately, the
appropriate grade number must be quoted when ordering.

Figure 25 Replacing camshaft front bearing

1. Horseshoe

2. Large "D" washer

3. Bearing

4. Mandrel

5. Pilot

Figure 25 Removing cylinder liners

Page 47

Figure 25 Piston and liner markings

Figure 27 Sealing cylinder liners

Operation 16 Engine rebuild

The following information covers the rebuilding of an engine that has
been completely dismantled e.g. to replace liners etc.

1. Smear "Silicoset 152" sealing compound thinly around the
seating face of the liner and its location in the cylinder block, making a
thin but complete 360° seal. (Figure 27)

Page 48

Figure 28 Fitting cylinder liners

2. Using a tool similar to that shown in Figure 28, insert the

liners in to the block and ensure that they stand 0.050 to 0.152 mm
(0.002 to 0.006 in) proud of the cylinder block face. Check that there is

0.381 mm (0.015 in) clearance between liners.

3. Assemble new pistons to the connecting rods securing in
position with the gudgeon pins and circlips. To facilitate this it may be
necessary to warm the pistons in hot water. Ensure that the "Front"
mark or arrow on the piston is facing forwards.

4. Before fitting the rings to the pistons check the gap in the
bore which should be 0.17 to 0.30 mm (0.007 to 0.012 in).

5. Insert the pistons in the bores with the rings in their correct
grooves and the ring gapes spaced correctly as described in operation

11. Compress the rings for installation using a compression tool similar
to that shown in Figure 16.

6. Fit new big end bearings in the connecting rods and caps.
Ensure that the correct sizes of bearing are used. see engine data.

7. Check crankshaft main bearing journals. see engine data.

8. Fit new main bearings to crankcase and main bearing caps.

9. Fit new thrust washers to the crankshaft ensuring the thrust

face of the washers makes good contact to the ground face of the
crankshaft.

10. Refit the crankshaft to the engine block. Fit main bearing
caps in the correct order, rear centre and front. Secure with six nuts
and washers. Always use new nuts and washers and tighten to a
torque of 3.316 kg/m (24 lb/ft).

11. Fit new oil seal into the rear cover, position a new gasket
and secure the cover to the cylinder block. Ensure that the dowels are
firmly seated in their locations.

12. Fit the front and rear bridge pieces with new cork seals
ensuring that the faces are flush with the cylinder block and secure
with four screws.

13. Replace the rear engine plate, fixing it in to position with
four set screws and lock washers.

14. Fit the flywheel assembly to the crankshaft and secure with
three bolts and a new tab washer. Tighten to a torque of 3.87 to 4.14
kg/m (28 to 30 lb/ft). Check flywheel run-out (see operation 2)

Figure 29 Valve clearance - tappet
adjustment

1. Feeler gauge

2. Adjusting screw

3. Lock nut

15. Refit front engine plate with a new gasket, to the engine
block and secure with three nuts and washers.

16. Fit the crankshaft outer thrust washers with the oil slots
facing forward, followed by the steel thrust washer with its
countersunk aperture facing rearwards.

17. Fit the woodruff key, spacer and crankshaft sprocket.

18. Using the flywheel, turn the crankshaft until the woodruff

key is pointing to 11 o'clock.

19. Turn the camshaft until the groove in the end of the
camshaft is in alignment with the woodruff key on the crankshaft.

20. Replace the camshaft sprocket along with the timing chain
and secure with two bolts and new locking plate.

21. Using a straight edge, check the camshaft sprocket is in
alignment with the camshaft sprocket. The valve timing mark on the
camshaft sprocket should now be pointing to the woodruff key on the
crankshaft.

22. Check timing chain tensioner for wear, renew if worn, and
position on the post in the timing cover.

23. Fit the timing chain with a new gasket, using centralising
tool No. RT 7481, and secure with seven bolts, two nuts and lock
washers (Figure 11).

24. replace crankshaft pulley and secure with bolt, plain washer
and lock washer.

25. Locate a new gasket and fit the oil pump assembly,
complete with strainer, securing to the cylinder block with two nuts
and lock washers. Refit oil pump and distributor drive shaft.

26. Fit a new gasket and then fit the sump pan, tightening the
fifteen set screws and spacers evenly.

27. Clean the cylinder head and cylinder block faces and fit a
new gasket. Smear grease around the metal edges of the gasket bore
eyelets.

28. Carefully position the cylinder head squarely on the cylinder
block and secure with twelve nuts, plain washers and lock washers.
Replace the three bolts on the sparking plug side of the cylinder head.

Page 49

Figure 30 Tappet adjustment tool

Figure 31 Stud removal tool

Check that the cylinder head nuts indicated in Figure 14 are tightened
progressively to a torque of 3.46 kg/m (25 lb/ft). The three smaller
nuts should be tightened to 2.07 kg/m (15 lb/ft).

29. Replace the push rods ensuring they are positioned in the
correct order.

30. Install the rocker shaft on the four studs and secure firmly
with four nuts and washers to a torque of 2.35 to 3.04 kg/m (17 to 22
lb/ft) Check tappet clearance (see Operation 17).

31. Fit a new gasket and refit the rocker cover.

32. Refit all ancillaries.

33. Install the engine and gearbox assembly (see Operation 1).

Operation 17 Valve clearance - tappet adjustment

Tappet clearances are:- 0.152mm (0.006 in) cold,

0.254 mm (0.010 in) hot

To adjust

1. Remove rocker cover.

2. Remove spark plugs.

3. Turn engine in normal running direction in order to open

and close the valves and check in the following order:
No. 1 valve with No. 8 valve fully open.
No. 2 valve with No. 7 valve fully open.
No. 3 valve with No. 6 valve fully open.
No. 4 valve with No. 5 valve fully open.
No. 5 valve with No. 4 valve fully open.
No. 6 valve with No. 3 valve fully open.
No. 7 valve with No. 2 valve fully open.
No. 8 valve with No. 1 valve fully open.

When adjustment is made the valve must be in the fully closed
position (figure 29).

4. Refit spark plugs and reconnect HT leads in the correct
order.

5. Refit rocker cover, renewing gasket if necessary.
Alternatively the tappets can be adjusted using a proprietary tool
similar to No. 6500A (see figure 30).

Stud removal
Damaged studs can be removed using extractor tool part No. 450A, in
conjunction with the tappet adjuster wrench No. 6500A as shown in
Figure 31

Engine specification

Cylinder head

Material Aluminium alloy
Joint gasket thickness 1.02 mm (0.040 in)

Cylinder Block

Material Forged aluminium alloy

Crankshaft

Material Forged high tensile steel
Main bearing journals 50.787 to 50.8 mm (1.995 to 2.0 inches)
Crankpin journals 33.07 to 33.08 mm (1.312 to 1.3025 inches)
End float 0.0764 mm (0.003 in) minimum

0.279 mm (0.011 in) maximum

Crankshaft regrinding size

1st undersize 0.254 mm (0.010 in)
Main bearing journals 50.533-50.546 mm (1.988-1.989 in)
Crankpin journals 33.07-33.08 mm (1.302-1.3025 in)
2nd undersize 0.508 mm (0.020 in)
Main bearing journals 50.279-50.292 mm (1.978-1.979 in)
Crankpin journals 32.81-32.82 mm (1.292-1.2925 in)
3rd undersize 1.016 mm (0.040 in)
Main bearing journals 49.771-49.784 mm (1.959-1.960 in)
Crankpin journals 32.31-32.32 mm (1.272-1.2725 in)

Crankshaft thrust washer sets

Oversize sets available 0.0635 mm (0.0025 in)

0.1270 mm (0.0050 in)

0.1905 mm (0.0075 in)

0.254 mm (0.010 in)

Pistons
Material Low expansion aluminium alloy
Size 62.53 mm (2.462 in)
All lands 62.17-62.26 mm (2.448-2.451 in)
At skirt 62.47-62.5 mm (2.459-2.638 in)

Piston rings
Gap 0.17-0.30 mm (0.007-0.012 in)
Width (compression rings) 1.245-1.250 mm (0.49-0.50 in)
Groove clearance 0.038-0.089 mm (0.0015-0.0035 in)
Width (oil scraper ring) 3.150-3.175 mm (0.124-0.125 in)
Groove clearance 0.038-0.089 mm (0.0015-0.0035 in)

Page 50

Oversize rings available
Compression ring top 0.254 mm (0.010 in)
Compression ring bottom 0.254 mm (0.010 in)
Oil scraper ring 0.254 mm (0.010 in)

Gudgeon pin
Diameter 14.283-14.288 mm (0.5623-0.5625 in)

Small end bush
Bore 14.292-14.298 mm (0.562-0.563 in)

Camshaft

Bearing diameter 38.66-38.67 mm (1.521-1.522 in)
Bearing clearances 0.0254-0.0889 mm (0.0010-0.0035 in)
End float 0.064-0.16 mm (0.0025-0.0065 in)
Chain pitch 9.525 mm (0.375 in)
Number of pitches 50

Valves
Seat angle 45°-45°30'
Seat width
Inlet 1.397-1.524 mm (0.055-0.060 in)
Exhaust 1.397-1.524 mm (0.055-0.060 in)
Valve lift 25.42 mm (1.00 in)
Valve guide lengths (inlet and exhaust) 41.4-41.66 mm (1.63-1.64 in)
Valve guide clearance 0.0381-0.0889 mm (0.0015-0.0035 in)

Valve springs
Free length 39.62mm (1.56 in)
Fitted length and load 34.11 mm (1.343 in) at 17.01 kg (37.5 lbs)
Length and load valve open 28.6mm (1.125 in) at 39.6 kg (87.3 lbs)

Flywheel
Material Chromium cast iron
Diameter 246.126 mm (9.69 in)

Starter ring
Number of teeth 100
Diameter over teeth 257.81 mm (10.15 in)

Crankshaft identification
Colour code -0.254mm (-0.010 in) - red

-0.508 mm (-0.020 in) - blue

-1.016 mm (-0.040 in) - green

Page 51

Section G

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Operation 1 Gearbox removal and installation

Operation 2 Dismantling the gearbox

Operation 3 Mainshaft - dismantling and re-assembly

Operation 4 Primary gear assembly - dismantling and
re-assembly

Operation 5 Rear cover assembly - dismantling and
re-assembly

Operation 6 Lay gear and layshaft - dismantling and
re-assembly

Operation 7 Reverse idler gear

Operation 9 To re-assemble the gearbox

Description

The gearbox has four forward gears and reverse with synchromesh on
all forward gears. The gear lever is directly located in the selector
levers through the gearbox top cover.

Routine maintenance

The gearbox oil level should be checked every 6,000 miles (10,000 km)
and topped up if necessary, to keep the oil capacity at a constant 0.64
litres (1.125 pints). It is important that the level be kept correct as any
drop in the level will lead to poor lubrication with possible
transmission damage. To ensure that the internal components are
kept clean, the oil should be changed at 12,000 mile (20,000 km)
intervals.

Operation 1 Gearbox removal and installation

To remove

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Drain the radiator and disconnect the top hose.

3. Disconnect the distributor HT and LT leads.

4. Remove the fresh air hose.

5. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe at the manifold.

6. From inside the vehicle, prise out the gear lever gaiter and

remove the gear lever knob. Remove the gaiter from the lever.
remove the centre console. Prise out the retaining "C" clip from the
gear lever top ball joint in the gearbox top cover, accessible through
the gaiter aperture. Lift out the gear lever and plug the hole with a
clean non-fluffy rag to avoid ingress of dirt.

7. Place the vehicle on a ramp or stands. remove the anti-roll
bar clamping rubber from the left hand chassis rail.

Gearbox

8. Repeat for the right-hand clamp and lower the anti-roll bar
down, away from the chassis.

9. Disconnect the speedometer cable.

10. Disconnect the clutch cable from the trunnion, remove the

lock nut and withdraw the cable from the trunnion. Pull the cable
outer sleeve from the retaining hole in the engine back plate.

11. Remove the four nuts, lock washers and bolts securing the
drive shaft to the rear axle flange, lower the drive shaft to facilitate
access to the gearbox flange and remove the front nuts, lock washers
and bolts followed by the drive shaft.

12. Support the engine and gearbox assembly from under the
sump.

13. Remove the four bolts securing the gearbox rear mount to
the chassis cross member.

14. By means of a jack, carefully lower the engine and gearbox
assembly, which will tilt on the front engine mountings, until the
gearbox rear support is clear of the chassis cross member.

15. Remove the bell housing nuts, lock washers and bolts and
withdraw the gearbox assembly from the engine.

To install

1. Raise the gearbox carefully and align the spigot on the
primary shaft with the spigot bearing in the flywheel and slide the
gearbox forward engaging the splines on the primary shaft with the
clutch plate. Locate the fixing studs into the rear engine plate and
secure the engine and gearbox together with six nuts, two bolts and
lock washers tightening to a torque of 1.66 to 2.07 kg/m (12 to 15
lb/ft).

2. Using a jack under the sump, raise the engine and gearbox
assembly, line up the gearbox support with the chassis mounting and
secure with the four nuts, bolts and lock washers. DO NOT forget to
attach the chassis earth braid. Tighten to a torque of 2.07 to 2.49
kg/m (15 to 18 lb/ft).

3. Reconnect the drive shaft to the gearbox using four bolts,
nuts and lock washers and tighten to a torque of 3.46 to 4.15 kg/m (25
to 30 lb/ft). Raise the rear end of the drive shaft and reconnect to the
axle flange. Tighten as for front fixings.

4. Reconnect the speedometer cable to the gearbox.

5. Refit the clutch cable into the retaining hole and reconnect

to the trunnion and adjust.

6. Secure the exhaust downpipe to the manifold with a new
gasket and two brass nuts.

7. Refit the exhaust support bracket to the bell housing stud
and secure with a nut and lock washer.

8. Refit the anti-roll bar to the chassis securing with two bolts
and washers on each side member.

9. Inside the vehicle, re-insert the gear lever into the ball
mount and secure with the "C" clip. Refit the centre console.

10. Push the gear lever gaiter over the gear lever and locate in
the centre console aperture.

11. Refit the gear knob.

12. reconnect the HT and LT cables.

13. Reconnect the fresh air hose.

14. replace the radiator top hose and refill the cooling system.

15. Reconnect the battery.

Page 52

Operation 2 Dismantling the gearbox
(Figure 1 & 2)

1. Drain the gearbox oil.

2. Remove the clutch fork and lever assembly (Section H)

3. Unscrew eight set screws, with lock washers and remove
the top cover, gasket, selector springs and detent balls.

4. Remove seven nuts and lock washers and remove the
gearbox front cover.

5. Using a suitable drift, tap out the mills pins from the
3rd/4th selector fork and lever, then withdraw the selector shaft
through the bell housing. Remove the selector lever.

6. Repeat the above for the 1st/2nd fork and lever and
withdraw the shaft taking note of the interlock pin in the end of the
shaft.

Page 53

7. Tap out the mills pin from the reverse selector lever and
withdraw the selector shaft through the bell housing.

8. Lift out the selector forks and tilt the gearbox to remove the
two interlock balls from the cross drilling in the bell housing end of the
selector shaft bores.

9. Withdraw the lay shaft into the bell housing, allowing the
lay gear to drop in to the base of the gearbox.

10. Unscrew six set screws complete with lock washers and
withdraw the rear cover and main shaft assembly, taking care not to
displace the front or rear synchro sleeves.

11. tap out the primary gear shaft from the bell housing.
Note: When separating the main shaft from the primary gear shaft the
needle roller pilot bearing may remain on the mainshaft.

Page 54

Page 55

12. Lift out the laygear assembly and the two thrust washers.

13. Withdraw the reverse gear shaft through the rear of the

gearbox and lift out the reverse gear.

14. Secure the rear cover including the mainshaft assembly in a
vice, release the tab washer, unscrew the mainshaft nut and remove
the tab washer and coupling flange from the mainshaft.

15. Remove the rear cover from the mainshaft assembly.

Mainshaft Dismantling and re-assembly

To dismantle

1. Remove the first speed gear, bush and bush key complete
with baulk ring from the mainshaft.

2. Remove the first/second gear selector sleeve.
Note: It is advisable to carry out this operation with the sleeve

wrapped in a suitable piece of cloth which will avoid losing any of the
sets of balls, blocks, springs and plungers from the synchro body.

3. After removing the sleeve, recover the springs, balls, blocks
and plungers from the cloth.

4. Repeat this operation for the third/fourth selector sleeve.

5. Remove the circlip from the spigot end of the mainshaft.

6. Using tool No. RT 8778, remove the third/fourth synchro

body from the mainshaft.

7. Withdraw the first speed gear bush key. Using tool RT 8778,
remove the first/second synchro body from the mainshaft and remove
the second speed baulk ring.

8. Remove the second/third speed gear from the mainshaft.

9. Examine all components for wear and renew if necessary

prior to reassembly.

To reassemble

1. Apply "Moly Grease 799" to second/third gear running
faces on the mainshaft.

2. Fit the third speed gear and baulk ring on the mainshaft.

3. Secure the woodruff key in its seating on the mainshaft.

4. Locate the third/fourth synchro body on the mainshaft

pressing in to position and fit the circlip.

5. Fit second speed gear and baulk ring to mainshaft followed
by the thrust washer. Ensure that the thrust face of the washer abuts
the gear.

6. Secure the second woodruff key in its location on the
mainshaft.

7. Locate the first/second synchro body on the mainshaft and
press in to position.

8. To facilitate further assembly, position the mainshaft in an
assembly "pot" or a vice.

9. Fit the three springs and plungers to the third/fourth
synchro body.

10. Slide the third/fourth synchro sleeve over the synchro body
leaving sufficient room to enable fitment of thrust blocks and balls in
the following operation.

11. Fit three thrust blocks leaving the synchro body ball
seatings completely visible.

12. Seat the synchro body ball in the thrust block, press the ball
down on to the plunger and slide the thrust block between the sleeve
and the synchro body.

13. Repeat instruction 12 for the two remaining balls.

14. Slide the third/fourth synchro sleeve along the synchro

body until it "clicks" in to position.
Note: Ensure that the sleeve is not pushed in too far, otherwise the
synchro balls and thrust blocks will be disturbed.

15. reposition the mainshaft in a vice or assembly "pot" to
facilitate first/second synchro body assembly.

16. Fit springs and plungers to the synchro body.

17. Slide first/second synchro sleeve over synchro body leaving

sufficient room to enable fitment of thrust blocks and balls. Ensure
the teeth of the synchro sleeve are facing forward.

18. Fit the three thrust blocks, leaving synchro ball seatings
completely visible.

19. Seat synchro body ball in thrust block, press ball down on to
plunger and slide the thrust block between the sleeve and synchro
body.

20. Repeat instruction 19 for two remaining balls.

21. Position baulk ring on first speed gear.

22. Fit first speed gear bush key into its location in the synchro

body.

23. Apply "Moly grease 799" to gear bush outside diameter and
inner flange face and then fit first gear.

24. Position first gear, including bush and baulk ring, on to
mainshaft splined end.

25. Rotate first gear bush, until it fully locates in the bush key
seated in the first/second synchro body.
Note: Handle mainshaft cluster with care to prevent synchro sleeves
etc from being disturbed.

26. Using tool No. RT 7490 press the rear cover on to the
mainshaft.

Operation 4 Primary gear assembly - dismantling and
re-assembly

To dismantle

1. Prise the primary gear front seal from the gear shaft.

2. Using circlip pliers (Tool No 7066) remove circlip securing

the front bearing to the primary gear.

3. Remove the spacer and front bearing.

4. Withdraw the needle roller bearing from inside the gear

body.

5. Inspect parts for wear, renewing if necessary.

To re-assemble
Replace components in reverse order. care should be taken when
fitting the front seal that it is not damaged when passing the seal over
the shaft splines. The seal is correctly fitted when it abuts the
shoulder

Note: The lip on the front seal must face forward.

Operation 5 Rear cover - dismantling and re-assembling

To dismantle

1. Remove circlip securing the rear bearing to the cover.

2. Using tool RT 7490, press out the rear bearing and

speedometer gear.

3. Prise out the rear cover oil seal.
To re-assemble

1. Press new seal into cover using tool RT 7489 and drive
handle 550 (Figure 3).

2. Check rear bearing and speedometer gear for wear, renew
if worn.

3. Replace he bearing, circlip, speedometer gear, and fit the
coupling flange oil seal.

Operation 6 Lay gear - dismantling and re-assembly

1. Examine the lay gear assembly, gear teeth and renew

complete assembly if obvious wear or damage is apparent.

2. The lay gear needle rollers should also be checked. remove
worn items with a suitable drift.

on which is the circlip. It must not abut the circlip.

Page 56

Figure 3 Replacing rear cover oil seal

Care should be taken when fitting new needle roller bearings not to
damage the bearing cage (see note on needle roller bearings in

Section F, Operation 2)

3. If signs of scoring are apparent on the layshaft, due to worn

needle roller bearings, it will have to be renewed.

Operation 7 Reverse idler gear assembly and shaft

1. Check reverse idler gear teeth and renew assembly if

necessary.

2. Inspect bushes and if worn, drive out old bushes with a
suitable drift and fit new ones.
Ensure the end face of the bushes finish flush with the gear face,

3. Check gear shaft for scoring and replace if necessary.

Operation 8 To re-assemble the gearbox

1. Refit reverse idler gear and shaft in to the gearbox case

with the select groove to the rear.

2. Position the laygear assembly with its thrust washers in to
the base of the gearbox.

3. Refit the primary gear assembly in to the bell housing
location.

Note: Drive carefully in to position until the bearing retaining ring is
flush with the case.

4. feed in the mainshaft assembly, taking great care not to
dislodge the synchro thrust blocks and balls.

5. Refit the rear cover with a new gasket to within 6.35 mm
(¼ in) of the gearbox face (to allow rotary movement and facilitate
positioning of the layshaft).

6. Turn the gearbox on to its top face and slide the layshaft
through the thrust washers and laygear assembly until it mates in its
bore with the rear of the box.

Note: The tang end of the layshaft must be at the front.

7. Position the tang end of the reverse shaft to engage with

the horizontal slot in the rear cover, then bolt the rear cover fully
home.

8. Refit the coupling flange on the mainshaft spline, fit the
washer and tab washer and secure with the mainshaft nut. Tighten to
a torque of 6.92 kg/m (50 lb/ft). Bend over the tab washer to secure
the nut.

9. Return the gearbox to an upright position and insert the
reverse, 1st/2nd and 3rd/4th selector forks on to the shafts.

10. Replace the two interlock balls in to the cross drilling in the
bell housing, locating in position with grease.

11. Line up the reverse selector shaft in the selector fork and
drive home the mills retaining pins.

12. Ensuring the interlock pin is in position, replace the1st/2nd
selector shaft in the selector fork and lever. Secure in position with
the mills pin.
Note: Rotate the shaft and fit the horizontal pin first, in the selector
lever, before pinning to the selector fork.

13. Replace 3rd/4th selector shaft into the mating fork and
lever, again retaining in position with mills pins.

14. Refit front cover.
Note: Ensure that the oil seal is correctly positioned on the primary

gear shaft (see Operation 4).Secure front cover to gearbox with seven
nuts and lock washers. Do not attempt to move selectors or change
any gear until the front cover is secured as this will result in forcing
the mainshaft assembly apart.

15. Replace the selector shaft detent balls and springs and refit
top cover and gasket, retaining in position with eight set screws and
locking washers.

16. refit the clutch fork and lever assembly.

Page 57

Section H

Clutch

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Operation 1 Clutch adjustment

Operation 2 Clutch assembly - removal

Operation 3 Clutch operating fork, lever & thrust pad

Operation 4 Pedal assembly - removal & dismantling

Operation 5 Pedal assembly - re-assembly & replacement

Operation 6 Clutch cable - removal & replacement

Description

The clutch assembly comprises a spring pressure plate assembly and a
single dry 158.75 mm (6.25 in) diameter clutch plate.
The clutch pedal operates a cable linked to the clutch operating arm
and a trunnion which acts as an abutment for the cable adjuster.

Routine adjustment

Check and adjust if necessary every 6,000 miles (10,000 km)

Operation 1 Clutch adjustment
The clutch cable is adjusted as follows:

1. Pull back on the clutch cable inner, releasing the adjuster
nut on the threaded portion of the cable from the trunnion located in
the clutch operating arm. (Figure 1)

2. Rotate the adjuster nut along the threaded end of the cable
and relocate on the trunnion.

3. The cable is correctly adjusted when the clutch and brake
pedal pads are level and there is approximately 1.5 mm (1/16 in) free
movement of the clutch operating arm at the trunnion.

Operation 2 The clutch assembly - removal

The clutch is located on the flywheel by two dowels and is retained by
six set screws and lock washers. Before dismantling, mark all major
components so they can be re-assembled in the same relative
positions, thus preserving balance and adjustment.

To remove (Figure 2)

1. Remove the gearbox (see Section G).

2. Unscrew the six set screws and lock washers and remove

the clutch assembly from the flywheel.

3. Check that the lining material, on both sides of the driven
plate, are clean and free from oil. The disc should also be checked for
excessive wear and signs of overheating. If the linings are worn down
to the rivet heads or if any of the above conditions are apparent, the
disc must be renewed.
Check the condition of the pressure plate and the thrust pad surfaces.
Should any sign of scarring or overheating be present, renew the
assembly.

Figure 1 Clutch adjuster

1. Adjuster nut

2. Trunnion

3. Operating arm.

Clutch fault diagnosis
A clutch lining, in service, will develop a "polished" surface. This
should not be confused with a "glazed" surface which will be due to a
film deposit, a condition that alters the frictional value of the lining.
When a "polished" surface is in perfect condition it is a medium brown
colour. If for any reason oil should gain access to the clutch and come
in to contact with the linings, small quantities will burn off due to heat
generated by the slip which occurs under normal starting conditions.
This has the effect of darkening the surface of the linings. However, as
long as the "polish" on the linings remains such that the grain of
material can be clearly distinguished, it has very little affect on clutch
performance.
Increased quantities of oil or grease, however, can give rise to harmful
conditions. One of two conditions may arise, or a combination of
both.
(a) The oil may burn off and leave a carbon deposit having a
high "glaze". causing clutch slip. In general this condition ides the
grain of the friction material.
(b) The oil may only burn partially. This leaves a resinous
deposit resulting in a fierce clutch. It may even cause a spinning clutch
due to the linings adhering to the flywheel and pressure plate
surfaces.
A clutch that has been misused by the driver, "riding" the clutch or
using the clutch pedal as a footrest, is often easily diagnosed by
advanced release bearing wear coupled with marked "bluing" of the
bearing plate.

To replace

1. Using tool No. RT 7485 as a centraliser, or a primary shaft
from a gearbox, position the clutch disc and pressure plate assembly
on the flywheel, securing evenly with the six set screws and lock
washers to a torque of 1.66 to 2.07 kg/m (12 to 15 lb/ft) (Figure 3)

Page 58

Figure 3 Centralising the clutch

Tap the pressure plate assembly with a hide mallet to ensure it is
correctly seated on the flywheel.

2. Check the clutch run-out does not exceed 0.381 mm
(0.015 in) on the steel thrust disc.

Operation 3 Clutch operating fork, lever and thrust pad
Removal and replacement

The operating fork is pinned into position on the shaft of the clutch
lever and tube assembly which is pivoted through the top of the
gearbox bell housing. To ensure that the thrust pad moved in the
correct plane it is pivoted in the operating fork and held firm by lock
springs. (Figure 2)

To remove

1. \\remove gearbox (Section G).

2. Using a screwdriver, prise off the locking washers and plain

washer, securing the clutch lever shaft to the bell housing.

3. Tap out the two clutch fork retaining mills pins with a 3.175
mm (0.125 in) diameter drift.
Note: It is advantageous to first remove the right-hand pin to facilitate
easier withdrawal.

4. Withdraw the clutch lever and shaft assembly from the
gearbox bell housing and remove the clutch fork.

Page 59

5. Release the locking springs and remove the thrust pad from
the operating fork.

6. Inspect the thrust pad for wear and renew if the bearing
face has worn below a depth of 1.58 mm (0.060 in) or shows any signs
of scoring or distortion.

To replace

1. Refit the thrust pad into the operating fork and secure with
new lock springs.

2. Insert the clutch lever shaft into the gearbox bell housing
and fit the operating fork.

3. Secure the clutch lever shaft to the gearbox bell housing
with a plain washer and new locking washers.

4. Align the retaining pin holes of the operating fork with
those in the clutch lever shaft and secure the operating fork in
position with new mills retaining pins, tapping firmly home with a

3.175 mm (0.125 in ) diameter drift.

5. Replace gearbox (see Section G)

Operation 4 The pedal assembly, removal and
re-assembly

To remove (Figure 4)

1. Remove split pin. withdraw clevis pin and washer and

disconnect the clutch cable clevis from the clutch pedal lever.

2. Unhook the accelerator cable and nipple from the lugs on
the pedal stem and release the plastic fastener on the outer cable
from the pedal mounting bracket. Withdraw the cable.

3. From within the engine compartment, prise out the
blanking grommet situated over the master cylinder push rod clevis to
gain access to the clevis pin securing the push rod clevis to the brake
pedal. Remove the split pin and washer.

4. From within the foot well, withdraw the clevis pin and
disconnect the clevis from the brake pedal.

5. Disconnect the stop light switch wires after disconnecting
the battery.

6. Remove two nuts, lock washers and plain washers and two
bolts, lock washers and plain washers securing the pedal assembly and
the brake master cylinder to the body.

7. Carefully withdraw the pedal assembly forwards in the foot
well to clear the two weld bolts on the pedal mounting bracket.
Disengage the master cylinder from the stud on the bracket.

8. remove the pedal assembly from the foot well,
manoeuvring it past the low link of the steering column.

To dismantle

1. release the brake pedal return spring tension by unhooking
the spring from the pedal lever.

2. Remove the split pin from the brake pedal end of pivot
shaft and drive out the shaft from the bracket side members,
withdrawing the brake and clutch pedals as the shaft is removed.

3. Rotate the accelerator pedal shaft nylon pivot bushes so
that they line up with the square apertures in the bracket side
members.

4. Prise out the pivot bushes and remove the accelerator
pedal.

5. Two metal bushes are pressed into both clutch and brake
pedals. Inspect for wear and if necessary, remove with a suitable drift.

6. Replace the pedal rubbers if worn.

7. Unscrew two lock nuts securing the brake stop light switch

to the mounting bracket and remove the switch.

Operation 5 Pedal assembly - re-assemble
and replacement

To re-assemble

1. Refit the brake light switch with a lock nut on either side of
the mounting bracket.

2. Locate the accelerator pedal pivot shaft in the square
apertures in the mounting bracket side member. Fit the nylon pivot
bushes and rotate them to secure the pedal in to position.

3. Locate the return spring on the brake pedal right-hand bush
boss.

4. Position the brake and clutch pedals between the side
members of the mounting bracket and insert the pivot shaft, ensuring
the split pin hole in the shaft is adjacent to the brake pedal and
bracket.

5. Insert new split pin to the shaft.

6. Locate the brake pedal return spring over the mounting

bracket and pedal stem.

To replace pedal assembly

1. Manoeuvre the pedal assembly to clear the steering column
lower linkage and position against the pedal mounting face in the toe
box. Locate the studs on the bracket through the holes in the body
and from within the engine compartment position the master cylinder
on the stud and secure the assembly with two bolts, plain washers
and lock washers.

2. from inside the foot well align the master cylinder push rod
clevis with the hole in the brake pedal and insert the clevis pin.

3. re-connect the brake light switch leads.

4. From within the engine compartment, through the access

aperture, refit the clevis pin washer and insert a new split pin. Refit
the grommet to the access aperture.

5. Locate the accelerator cable and nipple in the lug on the
pedal stem and reconnect the plastic fastener on the outer cable to
the mounting bracket.

6. Relocate the clutch pedal clevis to the clutch pedal and fit
the clevis pin and washer. Secure using a new split pin.

7. Adjust the clutch cable at the adjuster on the clutch
operating arm (see Operation 1).

8. Reconnect the battery and adjust the stop light switch.

Operation 6 Clutch cable removal and replacement

To remove

1. From under the vehicle pull back the clutch operating lever
to release the adjuster nut from the trunnion. Unscrew the adjuster
nut and withdraw the cable from the trunnion located in the
operating lever.

2. From inside the foot well, remove the split pin, washer and
clevis pin and disconnect the clevis from the clutch pedal lever.

3. From underneath the vehicle, using a 5.56 mm (7/32 in)
diameter drill bit, remove the heads from the two rivets securing the
clutch cable abutment bracket to the underside of the foot well.

4. Tap out the rivets and withdraw the cable complete with
abutment bracket, from the vehicle.
Note: The abutment bracket is press fitted to the cable during
manufacture and should not be removed.

To replace

1. When fitting a new cable assembly, which includes the
abutment bracket, two methods of securing the bracket to the foot
well can be adopted
(a) Riveting the bracket to the foot well as in production or,

Page 60

Figure 4 Pedal bracket assembly - exploded view

1. Pedal mounting bracket 13. Clutch pedal assembly 25. Throttle pedal

2. Nut 14. Clutch pedal pivot bush 26. Throttle pedal pivot moulding

3. Lock washer 15. Pedal rubber 27. Adjuster bolt

4. Coach washer 16. Clevis pin 28. Lock nut

5. Bolt 17. Split pin 29. Adjusting bolt

6. Lock washer 18. Brake pedal assembly 30. Lock nut

7. Coach washer 19. Brake pedal pivot bush 31. Lock nut, brake light switch

8. Bolt 20. Pedal rubber 32. Accelerator pedal assembly

9. Lock washer 21. Brake pedal return spring 33. Clutch footrest bracket

10. Nut 22. Clevis pin 34. Bolt

11. Pivot shaft 23. Split pin 35. Lock washer

12. Split pin 24. Clutch cable 36. Washer

(b) Drilling out the fixing holes in the bracket and securing it
with two No.10 set screws, nuts and lock washers.
Note: If the fixing holes in the body have been enlarged excessively it
is advisable to use method (b).

2. Clean all traces of sealing compound from the abutment
bracket under the foot well

3. Smear a coating of "I.C.I. Silcoset 152" sealing compound on
the seating face of the new clutch cable abutment bracket.

4. Push the clevis end of the new clutch cable assembly

through the hole in the foot well, locate the abutment bracket and
secure to the body using either method detailed above.

5. From inside the vehicle foot well connect the clutch cable
clevis to the pedal lever with the clevis pin and fit the washer and a
new split pin.

6. Underneath the vehicle insert the threaded end of the cable
through the trunnion and fit the adjuster nut.

7. Adjust the clutch (see Operation 1)

Page 61

Section J

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Operation 1 Drive shaft - removal

Operation 2 Checking the drive shaft for wear

Operation 3 Drive shaft - dismantling & re-assembly

Operation 4 Drive shaft - refitting

Description

The drive shaft (or prop shaft) comprises two sections incorporating a
sliding spline and universal joints to allow fore and aft movement of
the rear axle. Each universal joint consists of a centre "spider", four
needle bearings and two yokes.

Routine maintenance

Three lubrication points are provided, one for each universal joint and
one on the sliding spline. Grease should be applied to these points
every 6,000 miles (10,000 km) (Figure 1)

Page 62

Drive shaft

Figure 1 Grease Nipples

1. Sliding spline grease nipple

2. Universal joint grease nipple

Operation 1 Drive shaft removal

1. Place the vehicle on a ramp, or on axle stands under the

chassis.

2. Unscrew four bolts, nuts and locking washers from the
coupling flange at the axle end, to allow the shaft to be lowered to
facilitate access to the front flange. Now remove the four bolts, nuts
and lock washers at the gearbox flange and remove the drive shaft.

Operation 2 Checking the drive shaft for wear.

The degree of wear on the drive shaft thrust faces can be determined
by the amount of lift in the joints. This can be measured by hand using
a piece of wood suitably pivoted. Any circumferential movement of
the shaft relative to the coupling flange yokes indicates wear in the
needle roller bearings or the drive shaft spline, or ovality in the yokes.
A unit package (joint repair kit) is available for replacing worn needle
bearings and journals but if excessive wear is apparent in the yoke
bearing or drive shaft splines no action is possible and the drive shaft
will need to be renewed as a complete assembly.

Operation 3 Drive shaft - dismantling and re-assembly

To dismantle

1. Using circlip pliers (general tool No. 7066) remove the four
circlips from the universal joint.
Note: If no circlips are fitted, as may be the case on late vehicles, then
the yoke bearings are "staked" in to position. These shafts are sealed
and cannot be overhauled and a new drive shaft assembly complete
will need to be procured and fitted.
It may be necessary to clean rust and paint from the yokes to enable
the circlips to be removed.

2. Tap the radius of the yoke with a hide mallet to release the
yoke bearings. Should this prove difficult then the bearings can be
gently prised out from inside the yoke. Withdraw the bearing cups and
disengage the journal from the yoke.

3. Repeat the sequence 1 and 2 on the remaining bearings,
removing the journal from the yoke on the drive shaft.

4. Similarly separate the yoke and journals at the opposite end
of the drive shaft.

5. Unscrew the dust cap to separate the two sections of the
drive shaft at the sliding spline.

To re-assemble

1. Re-assemble the two parts of the drive shaft checking
carefully that the arrows stamped on them align correctly. This is to
ensure that the coupling flanges are correctly in line with each other,
thus giving uniform notion of the drive shaft plus the shaft balance
will be maintained. Failure to do this will cause accelerated wear of
universal joints, gearbox output bearings and axle input bearings as
well as a very poor driving experience. Tighten the dust cap.

2. Remove the cups from the new spider journals.

3. Ensure that the cups contain an approved lubricant (one

third full, leaving an air space to allow for heat expansion) and that all
the needle rollers are in position.

4. Fit the spider to the drive shaft yoke, locating the journals
in the yoke and carefully press both bearing cups in to position,
ensuring that the spider trunnion engages the cups and that the
needle bearings are not displaced. repeat this operation for the other
journal.

5. Using two tools of slightly smaller diameter than the
bearing cups, press the cups in to the yokes until they reach the lower
land of the circlip grooves. Do not press the cups below this point or
damage may be caused to the cups, bearings and seals.

6. Fit the circlips.

Operation 4 Drive shaft - refitting

To replace

1. Align the drive shaft with the gearbox coupling flange and
secure with four bolts, nuts and lock washers. Tighten to a torque of

3.46 to 5.15 kg/m (25 to 30 lb/ft).

2. Repeat for the rear drive shaft coupling flange to the axle
coupling flange.

Page 63

Section K

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Operation 1 Rear axle - removal and replacement

Operation 2 Replacing half shaft bearings
(axle in vehicle)

Operation 3 Dismantling rear axle

Operation 4 Re-assembly - determining overall
differential end float

Operation 5 Re-assembly - setting the pinion

Operation 6 Re-assembly - Installation of pinion in axle case

Operation 7 Re-assembly - determining correct backlash,
crown wheel to pinion

Operation 8 Final assembly of axle

Description

The rear axle is of the spiral bevel gear, semi floating type, the saloons
and estates having a ratio of 3.23:1. The van models have an axle ratio
of 3.545:1.
A two piece axle case assembly houses a taper roller bearing
differential unit with the crown wheel bolted to the casting.
The pinion is located in the centre of the housing case supported by
taper roller bearings.
Bearing preload in the differential assembly is controlled by shims
between the bearings and the differential castings.
The depth of mesh between the pinion and the crown wheel is
controlled by a spacing washer and additional shims as required.
The crown wheel and pinion are a selected pair. Identifying numbers
are etched on both. This condition applies to spare parts and
production alike. Under no circumstances should an unmatched
crown wheel and pinion be fitted.

Routine maintenance

Top-up the rear axle every 6,000 miles (10,000 km) if necessary. The
rear axle oil level should be checked by means of the combined
filler/level plug (Figure 2).
The axle does not have a drain plug. The initial oil fill and the
recommended oil for topping up the rear axle are formulated to give a
sludge-free axle life.
Note: The rear axle has a breather hole, located in the left-hand axle
tube and this should be checked and cleaned out, if necessary, every
6,000 miles (10,000 km). If the breather hole is continually blocked,
pressure generated within the axle will cause oil leakage from the
pinion and half shaft seals.

Operation 1 Rear axle- removal and replacement.

To remove

1. If a ramp is not available jack up the car and place securely
on axle stands under the chassis rails. Remove the road wheels.

Rear axle

2. Remove the drive (prop) shaft see Section J.

3. Disconnect the handbrake cables from the operating levers

on the brake back plates by removing the split pins and washer and
withdrawing the clevis pins. Disconnect the cables from the stop
brackets on the axle tubes.

4. Disconnect the hydraulic flexible pipe from the three way
connector on the axle tube and plug both this and the three way
adapter to stop fluid leakage and dirt ingress.

5. Place a jack or suitable support under the axle.

6. remove the nuts and washers and disconnect the lower

damper mountings, freeing the dampers from the axle.

7. Unscrew the 8 locknuts and 8 nuts and washers from the
"U" bolts securing the leaf springs to the axle.

8. The axle unit can now be lowered from beneath the vehicle
and removed.

To refit

1. carefully raise the rear axle until it locates on the pegs on
the springs.

2. Secure the axle to the leaf springs with four "U" bolts,
washers, nuts and lock nuts.

3. Refit the damper units to the axle mounting.

4. Replace the drive (prop) shaft.

5. Reconnect the hydraulic flexible pipe to the three way

connector on the axle tube.

6. Locate the handbrake cables in to the stop brackets and
reconnect the cables to the levers on the back plates with washers,
the clevis pins and new split pins.

7. Refit the road wheels and bleed the brakes.

Operation 2 Replacing half shaft bearings
(axle in vehicle)

1. If a ramp is not available, jack up the vehicle, place suitable
stands under the chassis and remove the road wheels.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic brake pipes from the brake back
plates.

3. Disconnect the handbrake cable from the operating arm by
removing the split pin and washer followed by the clevis pin.

4. Slacken the brake adjuster and remove the brake drum.

5. Unscrew the half shaft nut complete with washer, whilst
preventing the hub turning by using a lever wedged between two
studs, or a plate tool as shown in Figure 3.

6. A hub puller, part No. RT 8090 is necessary to remove the
hub. Fit hub puller sleeve on to the end of the half shaft (Figure 4), to
prevent damage. If the sleeve is not available, refit the nut and screw
until the top face of the nut is level with the end of the half shaft.

7. Secure the hub puller to the hub using all four wheel nuts,
tightened securely.

8. Tighten the hub puller to release the half shaft taper.

9. Remove the hub puller and sleeve and withdraw the hub.

10. Unscrew three set screws and washers and remove the
brake back plate.

11. The half shaft is removed by using a slide hammer part No.
RT 3072 and adapter RT 3072-2. Fit the adapter on to the slide
hammer and screw on to the half shaft. Sliding the hammer away
from the axle will release the half shaft from the axle and the shaft,
complete with slide hammer, can be withdrawn from the axle tube as
shown in Figure 8

Page 64

Page 65

Page 66

Figure 2 Rear axle oil level/filler plug

1. Level/filler plug

Figure 3 Hub puller sleeve (axle removed)

1. Sleeve

Figure 3 Slackening the half shaft nut (axle shown removed)

12. Remove the hub key and press off the half shaft bearing

and remove the oil seal from the housing.
Note: The oil seal collar behind the bearing should not be disturbed, If
it is accidentally removed it must be reset with a 73.91 mm (2.91 in)
clearance from the outside face of the collar to the end of the half
shaft taper. If on removing the hub, the hub key comes away with it, it
should be driven out with a suitable drift.

13. Repeat the above operations for the opposite hub.

To replace

1. Fit a new oil seal into the axle end housing.

2. Locate a new half shaft bearing on to the shaft and pack
with the recommended grease (see Lubrication chart page 13).

3. Insert the half shaft into the axle tube to engage in the

differential unit. Then, using the slide hammer and adapter, refit the
half shaft.

4. Secure the back brake plate with three set screws and lock
washers. Ensure that the back plate spacer is correctly positioned and

Page 67

Figure 4 Hub puller in use (axle removed)

that the spacer insert is free to move when the back plate screws are
tightened.

5. Clean the half shaft taper of all grease and foreign matter.

6. If the wheel studs are damaged they should be pressed out

and replaced.

7. Position the hub key in its slot and fit the hub to the half
shaft.

8. Secure the hub to the shaft with the nut and washer which
must be tightened to a torque of 13.8 to 15.3 kg/m (100 to 110 lb/ft).

9. Check the brake drum face is clean, refit the drum and refit
the road wheel.

10. Reconnect the hydraulic pipes to the wheel cylinders.

11. reconnect the handbrake cable clevis to the brake lever.

replace the washer and fit a new split pin.

12. Repeat sequences 1 to 11 for opposite hub.

13. Lower the vehicle back to the ground.

14. Bleed the hydraulic braking system

15. Check the rear axle oil level and top up if necessary.

Figure 6 Removing half shaft using slide hammer
(axle shown removed from vehicle

1. Adapter

2. Slide hammer

Figure 8 Removal of pinion bearing using collars and hand press

1. Collars

Figure 7 Removal of differential bearing using collars, adapters
and hand press

1. Collars

2. Adapter

Operation 3 Dismantling the rear axle

1. Remove the rear axle from the vehicle (see Operation 1).

2. Place the axle in a vice with the spring mounts uppermost

and the pinion flange facing the operative.

3. Remove the right-hand brake drum and hub (operation 4).

4. Remove the right-hand brake plate assembly, remove the

spacer and the right hand half shaft.

5. Remove eight nuts and lock washers securing the two
halves of the axle case. Remove the right-hand axle housing and
withdraw the differential unit.

Page 68

Figure 9 Removal of axle bearing cones from outer housing

1. Puller tool

2. Slide hammer

6. Using a hand press, General tool No. 47, and collars RT
8764/1, with adapter RT 8764/2, remove the differential bearings as
follows: Feed the differential unit in to the hand press and fit into the
cone of the tool. Ensure that the bearing fits securely into the collars
and the rollers on the bearing and fit the adapter to the differential
unit (Figure 7). Supporting the differential unit from below, turn the
hand press to remove the bearing. Repeat this operation for the other
bearing and take note of the value of the shims behind each bearing if
only the bearings are to be renewed.

Figure 10 Determining overall differential end float using
gauging tool

1. Gauging nut

2. Locking nut

7. Remove the pinion flange nyloc nut and washer and
withdraw the flange. Tap the pinion assembly in to centre of the axle
and remove.

8. Using hand press tool No. 47 and pinion bearing remover
tool RT 8765, follow the same procedure as the differential unit and
remove the pinion bearing. (Figure 8). Note the value of the spacing
washer thickness next to the pinion head plus any additional shims.

9. Following the earlier procedure, remove the left-hand
brake assembly and the left-hand half shaft.

10. Using the three legged puller tool No. RT 3072-1 on slide
hammer tool No. 3072, remove the axle housing outer bearing cones
(Figure 9).

11. Should the pinion outer bearing tracks need replacement,
remove with a suitable drift after gently heating the appropriate area
of the casting.

12. The pinion flange oil seal will come away when the rear
bearing is removed.

Operation 4 Re-assembly - determining the overall
differential end float.

1. Thoroughly clean all dismantled components.

2. Place two dummy bearings RT 8732 on the ends of the

differential carrier without any shims and assemble in the actual
casing. Secure the two halves of the axle case.

3. Check that the differential unit rotates freely.

4. Note: The gauging tool RT 8732used to determine the

overall differential end float, designed originally for the Robin axle,
can be modified to fit the Kitten axle as explained at the end of this
section. The following sequence describes the use of this modified
tool.
Assemble the components of the tool, screwing the circular plates on
to the push rods. Insert these through the axle tube, ensuring that the
swivel pad on each end is felt to locate in each side of the differential
carrier bore. Screw plates up to the axle tube and secure with the bolt
supplied. Unscrew both rods slightly before finally clamping the plate.
The two round knurled gauging nuts should be screwed on to the push
rod, which is facing the crown wheel or pinion side of the crown wheel
which, for convenience of explanation, should be on the left-hand side

Figure 11 Measuring the torque to turn the pinion using dummy
Pinion tool

1. Pinion setting tool

of the operator as they face the axle and referred to as the left-hand
side throughout these instructions.

5. Unscrew the right-hand side push rod approximately 3.2
mm (1/8 in). Screw in the left-hand push rod with a load of 2-4 lb/ft
maximum, thus pushing the differential assembly over in to the right­hand housing. Screw up the gauging nut lightly to the face of the
circular plate. Carefully screw the locking nut up to the gauging nut
and screw the push rod back approximately 3.2 mm (1/8 in), ensuring
the gauge nuts move with the screw as they come away from the
plate. Screw in the right-hand push rod 2-4 lb/ft maximum, thus
pushing the differential unit in to the left-hand axle housing. Screw in
the left-hand push rod until a stop is felt. Measure the gap between
the circular plate and the gauge nut with a feeler gauge and record
the figure (Figure 10) which will represent the overall end float.

6. Separate the casings and remove the differential assembly
complete with dummy bearings , but Do not remove the dummy

bearings from the differential carrier.

Operation 5 Re-assembly - setting the pinion

1. Ensure the pinion bearing cups are seating correctly in the

pinion housing.

2. Locate the thick pinion spacer washer on the dummy pinion
RT 8730 followed by the taper bearing cone.

3. Locate the dummy pinion in the pinion housing, placing the
outer bearing cone in position, followed by the flange and the dummy
pinion nut and tighten to give the running preload, thus setting the
rollers.

4. Place the mandrell, RT 8730 in the differential side bearing
bore. With a dial gauge torque wrench, check the torque required to
turn the dummy pinion nut (Figure 11). This should read 0.115 to

0.150 kg/m (10 to 13 lb/in) torque without the oil seal, 0.150 to 0.184
kg/m (13 to 16 lb/ft) with the oil seal. Ensure that the mandrell is
seating correctly and measure with feeler gauges the gap between the
outside diameter of the mandrell and the dummy pinion face (Figure

12). Any amount in excess of 0.030 in will be the spacers required to
bring the pinion to its correct operating distance. take in to account,
when determining the shims required, any figure stamped on the
pinion itself, which represents any variation in manufacture from the
nominal mounting distance i.e. if a figure of 0.003 is stamped on the

Page 69

Figure 12 Determining pinion mounting distance using dummy
pinion

Figure 13 Replacing pinion bearing cone using hand press and collars

1. Collars

2. Adaptor

3. Spacing washer

pinion shank, this means it has been manufactured high and requires
reducing in height by the same distance. Therefore if the gap
measured is, say 0.044, the spacers required will be 0.44 minus 0.030
minus 0.003 which will equal spacers to the value of 0.011 thicker
than that used for measurement.

5. Remove the dummy pinion assembly, place the selected
spacer on the pinion and assemble the bearing cone, using the hand
press tool No. 47, adapter RT 8765/2 and bearing replacer collars RT
8765/1 (Figure 13)

Operation 6 Re-assembly - installation of pinion in axle case

1. Add the collapsible spacer to the pinion assembly and place

the new oil seal in the pinion housing. Place the pinion assembly in the
pinion housing and replace the pinion flange and the nyloc nut.

Figure 14 Determining pinion to crown wheel backlash using a
dial gauge

2. Using a torque wrench, progressively collapse the spacer

starting at 6.91 kg/m (50 lb/ft). Preload begins when end float is
eliminated at approximately 11.06 kg/m (80 lb/ft).

3. Turn the pinion to ensure that the pinion rollers are
correctly seated.

4. Using a torque meter, check the torque required to turn the
pinion nut. This should be set at 0.150 to 0.184 kg/m (13 to 16 lb/in).

Operation 7 Re-assembly - determining the correct backlash,
crown wheel to pinion

1. Replace the differential assembly complete with the

dummy bearings into the differential housing and secure the two
halves of the axle case together.

2. If removed, refit the push rods of tool No. RT8732 as for
setting the differential end float. Slacken the right-hand side and then
screw in the left-hand push rod as before, using a torque wrench set
to 0.28 to 0.55 kg/m (2 to 4 lb/ft) maximum. This will give minimum
backlash. Screw up the gauging nut lightly to the face of the disc and
lock in position with the lock nut as before.

3. Unscrew the left-hand side and screw in the right-hand side
until the correct backlash is obtained. This should be checked at the
pinion flange as follows:

Setting the correct backlash, pinion to crown wheel, using a dial
gauge

1. With pinion flange horizontal, scribe a centre line on the

top end of the flange and a line 7/8 in on either side of it. (Figure 14).
This represents the overall diameter of the pinion.

2. Set up a dial gauge indicator on a magnetic base as shown
in Figure 14.

3. Using a screwdriver through the level/filler aperture, lock
the crown wheel by wedging it in between the pinion flange and the
bolt heads.

4. Rock the pinion flange and read off the backlash readings.
This should measure 0.006 to 0.008 in.

5. Screw in the left-hand side until a stop is felt, screw up
right-hand side until contact is made. Measure minimum backlash.
Unscrew left-hand rod and tighten right-hand rod at approximately
half turn intervals until the correct backlash is obtained.

Page 70

Figure 15 Replacing the differential bearing using special tool and
universal handle

1. Replacer tool

2. Universal handle

6. Measure the gap between the gauge nut and the disc and
record the figure. This figure represents the amount of shims, taking
in to account the bearing width variation plus the manufacturers'
preload, that must be fitted to the right-hand differential carrier
bearing. The remainder of the shims from the overall end-float, taking
in to account again any variation in bearing width, will be fitted to the
left-hand or pinion side of the differential.

Example

To give correct backlash, shims required on right-hand side equals

0.030. therefore shims on right hand side will be 0.050 minus 0.030
equals 0.020. These figures have been obtained using the dummy
bearings. Separate the axle cases, remove the differential and proceed
as follows:
Measure and compare each dummy bearing with the overall width of
the new taper bearing assembly to be fitted on each end. Ensure that
the rollers are settled by rotating before measurement. The plus
readings from the dummy bearings width are subtracted from the
selected shims. The minus readings are added to the selected shims.

Right-hand side

Dummy bearing width example 0.710
Taper bearing width example 0.715
Actual shims required 0.30 minus 0.005 = 0.025 plus 0.002 which
represents the manufacturers' preload allowance. Therefore total
shims required = 0.027.

Left-hand side

Dummy bearing width example 0.712
Taper bearing width example 0.710
Actual shims required 0.020 plus 0.002 = 0.025 plus 0.022 which
represents the manufacturers' preload allowance. Therefore total
shims required = 0.024.

Operation 8 Final re-assembly of axle

1. Tap both the differential bearing outer tracks in to the two

halves of the axle case.

2. Replace the correct shims on the differential unit. Using a
hide mallet and tool number RT 550.1 and universal handle 550,
replace the differential unit bearing (Figure 18)

Page 71

Figure 16 Modification of gauging tool RT 8732

3. Place the differential unit in to the differential case housing.

4. Replace the left-hand half shaft to assist in supporting the

crown wheel and differential assembly.

5. Secure the two halves of the axle case together using
Hylomar jointing compound and secure with the eight nuts and lock
washers to a torque of 2.76 - 3.46 kg/m (20 - 25 lb/ft).

6. Refit the right-hand half shaft complete with hub bearing to
engage in the differential unit.

7. Check that the total torque to turn the pinion flange is

0.265 to 0.334 kg/m (23 to 29 lb/in)

8. Locate the right-hand back plate and brake assembly to the
axle end, positioning the back plate spacer and insert against the back
plate. Align the holes and secure with the three set screws and lock
washers. Ensure that the insert is free to move in the spacer aperture.

9. Clean the taper of all grease and foreign matter.

10. Position the hub key in its location and fit the hub.

11. Secure the hum to the half shaft with the nyloc nut and

washer tightening to a torque of 13.8 - 15.2 kg/m (100 - 110 ft/lb).

12. Repeat the operations for the left-hand hub, back plate and
brake assembly.

13. Refit the axle unit on the vehicle (see previous axle
replacement procedure)

14. Reconnect the hydraulic brake pipes.

15. Check the brake drum faces are clean and refit the brake

drums and wheels.

16. Adjust the brakes and bleed the brake system.

17. Top up the axle with the recommended lubricant.

18. Tighten the level/filler plug to 2.07 to 2.76 kg/m (15 to 20

ft/lb)

Modification of gauging tool RT 8732

The tool, originally intended for Robin axles, requires the drilling of
two additional 11/32 in holes in the circular plate. The tool will then
accommodate both Robin and Kitten axles.

It is suggested that a template is made as shown in Figure 16 to
ensure accurate drilling of the plate.

Section L

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance and adjustments

Operation 1 Check front brake lining and adjustment

Operation 2 Check rear brake lining and adjustment

Operation 3 Handbrake adjustment

Handbrake cable lubrication

The hydraulic system

Operation 4 Bleeding the hydraulic system

Operation 5 Front brakes - fitting new shoes

Operation 6 Front wheel cylinders - removal & replacement

Operation 7 Rear brakes - fitting new shoes

Operation 8 Rear wheel cylinders - removal & replacement

Operation 9 Master cylinder - removal & replacement

Brake pedal assembly

Operation 10 Handbrake cable - replacement

Operation 11 Handbrake lever - removal & replacement

Dual circuit braking system

Description

The hydraulic braking system operates drum brakes at both front and
rear. A mechanical handbrake linkage is provided, operating on the
rear brakes only. The brake pedal, connected directly to the master
cylinder via a short push rod, also incorporates a stop light switch
mounted on the pedal bracket assembly.

Routine maintenance and adjustments

Check the level of the brake master cylinder weekly and top-up if
necessary.

Every 6,000 miles (10,000 km)

Adjust brakes.
Check and grease handbrake cable.
Check, bleed if necessary and top up the hydraulic system.
Inspect the hydraulic system for leaks and chafing.

Every 36,000 miles (60,000 km)

Replace fluid, renew seals or replace units, replace hoses.

Operation 1 Check front brake lining and adjustment

A manual eccentric pin type brake adjuster is fitted to both brake
shoes (Figure 1).

1. Check brake drums are cold.

2. Jack up the vehicle until the front wheel is clear of the

ground.

]

Brakes

Front brake adjusters

1. Adjuster

3. Remove the road wheel and fully slacken off the brake
adjusters.

4. Remove the front brake drum.

5. Check the lining material thickness. Linings that are bonded

to the shoes must not be allowed to wear below 1.5 mm (1/16 in) in
thickness. Riveted linings should be changed when the material wears
within 0.75 mm (1/32 in) of the rivet heads.

6. If the linings are serviceable refit the brake drum, locating
the larger stud hole over the stud with a collar on it (this is to preserve
the balance of the hub/drum assembly).

7. Replace the road wheel and adjust as follows: Turn the
adjuster of one shoe to bring the lining away from the shoe (in the
opposite direction to wheel rotation). Turn the other adjuster in the
direction of wheel rotation until the drum is locked. Then slacken back
until the wheel is sufficiently free to rotate without binding.

8. Rotate the other adjuster in the direction of wheel rotation
until the drum is locked. Again back off until the wheel is just
sufficiently free to turn without binding.
Note: This minimum adjustment must be performed accurately to
obtain the minimum clearance between the shoe linings and drum,
with consequent minimum pedal travel.
Repeat with the opposite wheel.

Operation 2 Check rear brake lining and adjustment

1. Jack up the vehicle until one rear wheel is clear of the

ground.

2. Check the linings as described for the front wheel.

3. If the linings are serviceable, replace the drum and road

wheel and adjust as follows:
Release the handbrake and whilst rotating the wheel, turn the
adjuster (Figure 2) clockwise until the shoes touch the drum. Continue
"one click" at a time until the drum is locked. Slacken the adjuster
"two clicks" when the wheel should rotate freely. repeat with the
other wheel.

Page 72

Figure 2 Rear wheel adjuster and bleed screw

1. Adjuster

2. Bleed screw

Operation 3 Handbrake adjustment

Before adjusting the handbrake cable, ensure that the rear brakes are
correctly adjusted.

1. Ensure that the handbrake lever is in the fully "off" position
and the cable is slack.

2. Slacken off the lock nuts shown in Figure 3. Adjustment can
be affected by means of the main adjuster screws. Adjust the two
screws equally. Re-tighten the lock nuts securely.

Handbrake cable lubrication

The handbrake cable is greased on assembly but the cable inner
should be greased by means of the two grease nipples (where fitted).
in adverse weather conditions especially it is wise to grease the pulley
and all exposed sections of cable with special attention to the guides
to avoid chafing/binding.

The hydraulic system

The hydraulic brake master cylinder is situated in the engine
compartment above the driver's foot well. Before checking or
replenishing the system, wipe the sides of the reservoir to prevent dirt
entering the system when the cap is unscrewed. Top -up the reservoir
as and when necessary using a recommended hydraulic fluid - see
Lubrication chart page 13. Do not use other fluids, otherwise the seals
may be damaged causing brake failure. Ensure that the breather hole
in the filler cap is clear before replacing the cap.

Operation 4 Bleeding the hydraulic system

Bleeding - elimination of air from the hydraulic system, should only be
necessary when any part has been disconnected or if the fluid level in
the master cylinder has been allowed to fall so low that air has been
drawn in to the system. This is usually indicated by the need to
"pump" the brake pedal to obtain efficient braking. The system must
then be bled.
The apparatus needed to bleed the hydraulic system consists of a
clean glass jar containing some brake fluid and a rubber tube of
sufficiently small diameter to fit tightly over a bleed nipple. An
assistant will be required to pump the brake pedal.

1. Locate the bleed nipple on the nearside rear wheel brake
back plate (Figure 2). Remove the dust cover and fit the rubber tube
over the nipple. Immerse the other end of the tube in the brake fluid
in the glass jar.

Figure 3 Handbrake adjusters

1. Adjuster nut

2. Lock nut

2. Unscrew the nipple about a quarter of a turn.

3. Pump the brake pedal. The operation of the brake pedal is

important. The pedal must be pushed down firmly through the full
stroke, followed by three short rapid strokes and the pedal should be
allowed to return quickly to its stop with the foot right off.

4. Repeat this operation until the fluid expelled is free from air
bubbles. Tighten the bleed nipple during a down stroke of the brake
pedal.

5. Remove the bleed tube from the nipple and replace the
dust cover. The above procedure must be carried out on all wheels in
the order: Nearside rear - offside rear - nearside front and offside
front.
Always check that the stoke of the brake pedal is not impeded by floor
mats or other obstructions.
Note: Throughout the above procedure, keep the master cylinder
topped up with fresh clean brake fluid. Never re-use old fluid.
Scrupulous cleanliness must be observed at all times.

6. Check the operation of the brakes on road test.
Important: at 36,000 miles or three years the fluid should be changed.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic so will absorb moisture over time, lowering
the boiling point leading to fade or even failure of the brakes.

Operation 5 Front brakes - fitting new shoes

Always fit Reliant replacement shoes, including a new set of return
springs.

To remove

1. Jack up the vehicle and place on suitable stands.

2. Remove the front road wheel and brake drum.

3. Using a large screwdriver, prise both the shoes from the

grooves in the wheel cylinder pistons.

4. Remove both shoes and return springs.
Note: To prevent loss of fluid, slip a rubber band over each wheel
cylinder to hold the pistons in place.

5. Clean the back plate using a vacuum cleaner or wipe out
with a damp cloth. Remove all traces of dust. The old-established
practice of blowing off with an air line is NOT recommended as it
represents a potential health hazard.

6. Check the adjusters for correct operation and lubricate. Use
only a proprietary brake grease.

Page 73

To replace

1. Attach new return springs to the new shoes, ensuring the
springs are correctly located and positioned such as they are between
the shoe webs and the brake plate on assembly (Figure 4)
Note: Try not to touch the lining material and avoid contact with
grease and other contaminants.

2. Remove the rubber bands from the wheel cylinders.

3. Place the shoes in place with the springs attached, against

the back plate locating the tongues of the shoes in to the grooves of
the wheel cylinder bodies.

4. Locate a screwdriver under the web of one shoe against the
back plate and lever the shoe over the adjuster spindle and into the
wheel cylinder piston groove.

5. Repeat for the remaining brake shoe.

6. refit the brake drum, making sure it is clean and free from

dust or grease.

7. Refit the road wheel and adjust the brake.
Note: Brake shoes MUST be changed in axle sets. Repeat for the

opposite front wheel.

8. Lower the vehicle and road test to check braking
performance.

Operation 6 Front wheel cylinders - removal & replacement

A leaking wheel cylinder will cause fluid loss and may lead to excessive
pedal movement and contamination of the brake shoe linings, The
vehicle may also show a tendency to pull or veer under braking. A
seized wheel cylinder may also exhibit some of these characteristics.
In either case the defective cylinder must be replaced with a new one.

To remove(Figure 4)

1. Remove the brake shoes as previously described.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic pipes from the wheel cylinders

and plug them to avoid fluid loss or dirt ingress.

3. Remove the bleed nipple.

4. Remove the two screws and lock washers securing the

wheel cylinder and withdraw the cylinder and gasket.
Repeat for the other cylinder if necessary.
Re-assemble in reverse order. Bleed the brakes.

Safety Note: Brake shoes contaminated by leaking fluid must always
be replaced. On no account try to clean contaminants from brake
shoe linings.

Page 74

Page 75

Operation 7 Rear brakes - fitting new shoes
to remove (Figure 5)

1. Jack up the rear of the vehicle and secure on stands.

2. Remove the road wheel.

3. Slacken off the brake adjuster and remove the drum.

4. Prise the tongue of the shoe from the wheel cylinder piston

groove, adjacent to the handbrake operating lever.

5. Lift the other end of the shoe from the slot in the adjuster.

6. Lever the second shoe from the piston and adjuster,

disengaging the shoe from the handbrake lever.

7. Remove both shoes complete with springs and put a rubber
band around the wheel cylinder to hold the pistons in place.

8. Clean the back plate using a vacuum cleaner or wipe out
with a damp cloth. Remove all traces of dust. The old-established
practice of blowing off with an air line is NOT recommended as it
represents a potential health hazard.

9. Inspect the wheel cylinder for leakage and check the
condition of the rubber dust seals.

10. Inspect the adjuster for ease of operation. Lubricate if
necessary using "copaslip" or a proprietary brake grease.

To replace

1. Attach new springs to the new shoes. Arrange the springs
so they are on the back plate side f the shoe webs with the single coil
spring adjacent to the adjuster.

2. Remove the rubber band and position the shoes on the
back plate so that the handbrake lever locates in the aperture in the
web of the shoe.

3. Engage the tongues of the shoe into the slots in the
adjuster and wheel cylinder.

4. Repeat with the other shoe.

5. refit the brake drum after ensuring it is clean and free from

grease or contaminant.

6. Refit the road wheel and adjust the brake.
Note: Brake shoes MUST be changed in axle sets. Repeat for the

opposite rear wheel.

7. Lower the vehicle and road test to check braking
performance.

Operation 8 Rear wheel cylinders - removal & replacement

Faulty rear wheel cylinders will show similar symptoms to faulty front
ones. If the vehicle has a tendency to gently pull to the left or right
under braking, a rear cylinder might be the cause.

To remove

1. Remove the brake shoes as previously described.

2. Disconnect the hydraulic pipe from the cylinder and plug to

avoid leakage and dirt ingress. Remove the bleed nipple.

3. Prise off the wheel cylinder retaining circlip and remove the
cylinder.
Replace in reverse order. Bleed the brakes.
Note: The circlip MUST be replaced with a new one and can be
awkward to fit.

Safety Note: Brake shoes contaminated by leaking fluid must always
be replaced. On no account try to clean contaminants from brake
shoe linings.

Operation 9 Master cylinder - removal & replacement

A faulty master cylinder can be diagnosed by excessive pedal
movement or signs of leakage around the rubber sealing gaiter and
push rod. A very stiff brake pedal might indicate a seized master
cylinder piston. Overhaul is not advised with complete replacement of
a faulty or worn unit being the recommended course of action.

To remove

1. From within the engine compartment, prise out the
grommet located on top of the driver's foot well to gain access to the
split pin and clevis connecting the master cylinder to the brake pedal.
Remove the split pin and washer.

2. From within the foot well, remove the clevis pin and
disconnect the master cylinder.

3. Disconnect the fluid pipe from the master cylinder and plug
to avoid leakage or dirt ingress.

4. Unscrew the nut and set screw compete with lock washers,
securing the master cylinder to the body and pedal bracket and
remove the master cylinder.
Replace in reverse order. Bleed the brakes.

Brake pedal assembly
Removal and dismantling / re-assembly of the brake pedal assembly is
explained in Section H - The clutch.

Operation 10 Handbrake cable - replacement
To replace handbrake cable (Figure 6)

1. With the handbrake in the off position, remove the split

pins washers and clevis pins and disconnect the cable from the right
and left-hand rear brake plates.

2. Remove the inner cables from the cable guides and release
the outer cables from the stop brackets on the axle tubes.

3. Pull down the handbrake pulley and detach from the clevis
by removing the split pin, washer and clevis pin.

4. Slacken the adjuster locking nut, release the cable from the
handbrake mounting plate and withdraw the cable from the vehicle.

5. Locate the new cable in the handbrake mounting plate and
secure with the lock nuts.

6. Fit the pulley in the cable and secure with the clevis pin,
washer and a new spilt pin.

7. Locate the cables in the axle stops and feed the inners
around the cable guides.

8. Connect the right and left-hand cables to the operating
arms on the brake plates with the clevis pins, washers and new split
pins.

9. Adjust the hand brake.

Operation 11 Handbrake lever - removal & replacement

1. With the handbrake off, remove the split pin, washer and
clevis pin connecting the handbrake cable pulley clevis to the
handbrake lever.

2. From inside the vehicle, peel back the carpet around the
handbrake lever. Unscrew three set screws, lock washers and coach
washers and detach the handbrake lever from the body mounting.

Replace in the reverse order, and re-adjust the handbrake if
necessary.

Page 76

Page 77

Figure 7 Handbrake lever - after chassis no:
6F7/14701001 - saloon,
6F7/14801002 - estate,
6H1/14901043 - van.

1. Handbrake lever

2. Mounting bracket

3. Set screw

4. Lock washer

5. Coach washer

6. Handbrake cable

7. Compensator pulley

8. Clevis

9. Clevis bolt

10. lock nut

11. Clevis pin

12. Washer

13. Split pin

14. Clevis pin

15. Washer

16. Split pin

17. Handbrake gaiter

18. Retaining ring

19. Screw

Page 78

Dual circuit braking system

A dual line braking system was fitted to later cars. A tandem master
cylinder is fitted for use with the dual line system.
The master cylinder incorporates a pressure failure switch, the
purpose of which is to provide a visual warning of front or rear brake
failure caused by pressure loss. Pressure generated in the master
cylinder passes either side of a shuttle valve, which under normal
conditions remains stationary. A pressure failure in either the front or
rear circuits causes the shuttle valve to move and actuate the switch.
This completes and electrical circuit which operates a warning light on
the dash panel, located between the speedometer and the
combination gauge. The warning light includes a test switch that can
be manually operated to test the circuit and the bulb operation.
Repairs and maintenance of the dual circuit system are the same as
for the single line system with the exception of the pressure release
valve, not fitted to the earlier cars.

Figure 8 Dual circuit braking system

1. Master cylinder 10. R/H bundy link pipe 19. Set screw

2. Pressure reducing valve 11. Front flexible hose 20. Lock washer

3. Bolt 12. Lock nut 21. Nut

4. Lock washer 13. Lock washer 22. L/H rear brake bundy pipe

5. Nut 14. Wheel cylinder link bundy pipe 23. R/H rear brake bundy pipe

6. Set screw 15. Clip 24. Bundy clip

7. Primary bundy pipe 16. PRV to rear circuit bundy pipe 25. Bundy clip

8. Secondary bundy pipe 17. Rear flexible hose 26. Bundy to axle clip

9. L/H bundy link pipe 18. 3-way connector

Page 79

The hydraulic system pressure reducing valve is fitted to stop the rear
wheels locking prematurely under heavy braking. In the event of front
hydraulic failure the valve allows full pressure to operate the rear
brakes.
The valve is fitted to a bracket on the right-hand chassis main rail
below the drivers' foot well.

To remove

1. Disconnect the brake fluid pipes from the valve and plug to
avoid leakage/ dirt ingress.

2. Remove the single set screw securing the valve to the
chassis bracket and withdraw the valve.

Replace in reverse order

Section M

Wheels and tyres

Contents

Description

Tyre pressures and care of tyres

Tyre pressures - saloon and estate

Repairs

Tyre rotation

Jacking positions

Wheel removal and inspection

Valves and caps

Wheel and tyre balance

Description

Wheels fitted as standard equipment are pressed steel type with
polished wheel nave/hub caps which spring over projections on the
wheel.
Radial ply tyres size 145 x 10 are fitted to all models. Replacements
must be of radial ply construction.

Tyre pressures and care of tyres

Regular inspection of tyres should be made to check the condition of
the tyre, treads and walls. Flints and stones should be removed from
the tyre tread, if neglected they may work through and damage the
casing. Any oil or grease contamination must be cleaned off with
petrol lest deterioration of the rubber be caused. Do not use paraffin
as this will damage the tyre. Tyre pressures must only be adjusted
when cold. During use, the tyre warms up and pressure increases and
this additional pressure must not be released as the tyre will be under
inflated when cold. Under inflation will result in accelerated tread
wear and can cause side wall damage.
Maintain the tyres, including the spare, at the recommended
pressures as follows:

Tyre pressures - saloon and estate

Normal load: Saloon/Estate Front 1.41 kg/cm² (20 lb/in²)
Rear 1,55 kg/cm² (22 lb/in²)
Van Rear 1.69 kg/cm² (24 lb/in²)
Full load: Saloon/Estate Front 1.41 kg/cm² (20 lb/in²)
Rear 1.99 kg/cm² (28 lb/in²)
Van Rear 2.11 kg/cm² (30 lb/in²)

Repairs

A puncture must be repaired either with a permanent vulcanised
repair if possible, or by the fitment of a tube. Any damage to the tread
edges or side walls will render the tyre unusable and it must be
replaced.

Tyre rotation

With radial ply tyres, the tyre manufacturers recommend that tyres
are changed around at intervals no greater than 3000 miles (5000 km)
to even out wear, but best results are obtained if they are left in the
positions first fitted. If wheel changes are undertaken it is advised only
to change from side to side on the same axle, never diagonally. With
cross ply tyres it is recommended that the tyres be rotated diagonally
front to rear every 6,000 miles (10,000 km)

Page 80

Figure 1 Jacking point - front

Jacking positions

Before changing a wheel, or carrying out any servicing, ensure that the
vehicle is on level ground, with the handbrake applied and, if
necessary, the wheels properly chocked.
Note: Work must never be carried out underneath a vehicle when it is
supported only on a jack. A proper chassis stand must be used to
support the vehicle.

Front
The front wheel can be raised by positioning the jack at the front of
either main chassis rail adjacent to the front outrigger (Figure 1).

Rear

For the rear, the recommended jacking point is at the extreme rear
end of the main chassis member (Figure 2).

Figure 2 jacking point - rear

Wheel removal and inspection

1. Remove the nave/hub caps and wheel trims and loosen the

wheel nuts.

2. Jack up the vehicle until the wheel is clear of the ground.

3. Remove the wheel.

4. Examine the wheel carefully for damage. Use a wire brush

to clear any corrosion. Inspect the centre for cracking, especially in the
area of the wheel nut apertures. Repairs to damaged wheels should
not be carried out. The wheel should be renewed.

5. Refit the wheel.

6. The wheel nuts must be fitted with the tapered end

towards the wheel face. Do not over tighten the wheel nuts. The
pressure that can be applied with the supplied wrench will be
sufficient. If a torque spanner is used the tightening torque should be

4.15 to 4.84 kg/m (30 to 35 lb/ft).

Valves and caps

When checking tyre pressures always ensure that the dust cap is
replaced on the valve and tightened down firmly by hand only. The
cap prevents the ingress of dirt and acts as an extra barrier against
leakage should the valve fail. New valve cores can be fitted using a
valve coring tool (Figure 3).

When replacing a tyre, a new tubeless valve complete should also be
fitted.

Wheel and tyre balance
unbalance in wheel and tyre assemblies will be responsible for various
effects such as wheel wobble, abnormal war of tyres and suspension
components, vibration through the steering or, in extreme cases the
whole vehicle.

Figure 3 Valve fitting tool

Wheels should be balanced when new tyres are fitted. This can be
done statically but all tyre suppliers should have a dynamic balancing
machine. Failing to have the wheels balanced is false economy as the
tyre life will be noticeably better with the wheels balanced.

Page 81

Section N

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Operation 1 Exhaust system - removal and replacement

Operation 2 Exhaust silencer - replacement

Description

The exhaust system of both saloon an estate comprises of two main
units, the manifold and a one-piece downpipe and silencer assembly.
The downpipe is secured to the manifold by two brass nuts and
supported by means of a bracket and clamp attached to a bell housing
stud at the front of the system. The rear is supported with a flexible
rubber ring attached to hooks on the tail pipe and the rear chassis
cross member.

Routine maintenance

The only routine maintenance is to inspect the system for corrosion
and damage paying particular attention to the silencer, plus the
periodic checking of the tightness of all nuts, bolts and fixings. It is
recommended that these checks be carried out every 6,000 miles
(10,000 km).

Exhaust system

Operation 1 Exhaust system - removal and replacement

To remove (Figure 1)

1. Remove the two brass nuts securing the downpipe to the
exhaust manifold.

2. Slacken the nut securing the support bracket to the bell
housing.

3. At the rear, prise off the rubber ring supporting the tail
pipe.

4. Remove the nut and washer from the bell housing bolt and
manoeuvre the exhaust system out from under the car.

To replace
Replace in the reverse order, fitting a new manifold to downpipe
gasket and new brass nuts. Check the tightness of all fixings after the
engine has been run up to normal temperature.

Operation 2 Exhaust silencer - replacement

A silencer repair kit is available to enable a system to be repaired
when only the silencer has deteriorated leaving the downpipe in good
condition. The repair involves cutting off the silencer and splicing a
new one on to the existing downpipe.

1. Remove the exhaust system.

2. Cut off the damaged silencer 76.2 mm (3 in) forward of the
silencer box.

3. Join the new silencer to the downpipe using the stub pipe in
the kit.

4. Fit the supplied clamps but do not fully tighten.

5. Refit the system to the car, adjust at the rear for clearance
and fully tighten the clamps.

Page 82

Section P

Contents

Description

Routine maintenance

Operation 1 Fuel tank - removal and replacement

Operation 2 Fuel tank sender unit - removal and
replacement

Operation 3 Fuel pump - Check function, removal,
replacement and overhaul

Exhaust emissions

Carburettor

Operation 4 Adjusting - idling or slow running

Operation 5 Fast idling (choke) adjustment

Accelerator cable

In-line fuel filter

Description

Fuel is pumped by a diaphragm pump to the carburettor from a
rectangular fuel tank mounted under the floor at the rear of the
vehicle. The fuel is filtered by a gauze filter located on the pick-up pipe
adjacent to the fuel tank. The float operated sender unit in the tank
actuates the fuel gauge situated in the fascia.
The carburettor is an SU type HS2 conforming to the department of
the environment vehicle emission regulations.
Air drawn in to the carburettor is filtered by a dry paper element air
filter.

Routine maintenance

The carburettor dash pot in the suction chamber requires topping up
every 3,000 miles (5,000 km) (Figure 1).
The air filter element should be checked every 6,000 miles (10,000
km) and replaced at 12,000 mile (20,000 km) intervals.
The in-line fuel filter should be renewed at 12,000 mile (20,000 km)
intervals.

Operation 1 Fuel tank - removal and replacement
If water, or any other contaminant detrimental to the fuel system are
present in the fuel tank it should be removed and flushed out with
clean petrol.

To remove

1. disconnect the battery.

2. If a ramp is not available, block the front wheels, jack up the

rear of the vehicle and support on secure axle stands under the
chassis.

3. Remove the drain plug and drain the contents of the fuel
tank.

Page 83

Fuel system

Figure 1 Carburettor lubrication

1. Suction chamber

2. Damper

3. Fuel trap

4. Slacken the jubilee clip securing the filler hose to the tank
filler tube and lever the hose off the tank.

5. Slacken the jubilee clip holding the smaller breather hose to
the tank and disconnect the hose.

6. Disconnect the fuel supply pipe at the sleeve connector
located on the right-hand chassis side member.

7. Remove the nut and washer securing the fuel tank to the
left-hand and right-hand support straps.

8. Remove the screw, lock washer and nut securing the fuel
tank to the support bracket to the chassis member.

9. Bend the retaining straps outwards away from the tank
mounting studs. take care not to damage the mounting stud threads.

10. Carefully lower the tank, disconnect the sender unit and
remove the fuel tank from the car.
Re-assemble in reverse order.

Operation 2 Fuel tank sender unit - removal and
replacement

If faulty readings are suspected on the indicator gauge check the
indicator and sender unit as follows:

1. Remove the fuel tank a previously described in Operation 1.

2. Twist the sender unit locking ring to release the unit from

the tank and withdraw the sender unit.

3. With the sender lead disconnected, turn on the ignition and
the gauge should read empty.

4. Now touch the lead to ground and the gauge should move
to full. This will confirm that the gauge and circuitry is working
correctly.

5. Reconnect the sender lead to the sender and earth the
body. Manually operate the float lever. With the float at the bottom
the gauge should read empty. raising the float, the needle should
smoothly move to full. Any deviation from these readings will confirm
that the sender unit is faulty and will need renewing.

Figure 2 Fuel tank and pipes

1. Fuel tank 13. Hose 24. Pipe, pump to carburettor

2. Sender unit 14. Clip 25. Clip

3. Sealing ring 15. Breather hose 26. "P" clip

4. Locking ring 16. Clip 27. In-line petrol filter

5. Drain plug 17. Grommet 28. Pipe

6. Washer 18. Pipe, pump to filter 29. Sleeve

7. washer 19. Olive 30. Clip

8. Nut 20. Nut 31. Clip

9. Set screw 21. Pipe, filter to pump 32. Clip

10. Washer 22. Olive 33. Petrol cap

11. Nut 23. Nut 34. Filler cap (chrome)

12. Filler tube

Operation 3 Fuel pump - Check function, removal,
replacement and overhaul

Testing the fuel pump
Providing there are no leaks or obstructions in the fuel line, a quick
check on the fuel pump efficiency can be made a follows:

1. Disconnect the carburettor feed pipe at the fuel pump
outlet.

2. Connect a slave pipe to the outlet and place in a clean jar.

3. Crank the engine, when a well defined spurt of fuel should

be apparent for each revolution of the engine. If the pump does not
operate satisfactorily an overhaul is needed.

To remove and dismantle (Figure 3)

1. Disconnect the fuel pump inlet and outlet pipes and plug to
avoid leakage or dirt ingress.

2. Unscrew the fixing nuts and lock washers and remove the
pump.

3. Before dismantling, clean the exterior of the pump and
mark the upper and lower halves in line with the tang on the
diaphragm to aid re-assembly.

4. Remove the five screws and separate the upper and lower
halves of the pump.

Page 84

1

5. Hold the pump in an inverted position, push in and then
turn the diaphragm through 90° to release the pull rod from the key in
the rocker arm assembly.
Note: The diaphragm and pull rod assembly are riveted together and
must not be dismantled.

6. release the circlip and withdraw the rocker arm and
extension spindle from the lower body.

7. Remove the rocker arm and extension, complete with
washers and return spring.

8. Check components for wear and renew if necessary for
subsequent re-assembly.
Note: If the valves are peened in they are not replaceable. If these are
faulty a new pump complete will need to be fitted.

To re-assemble and refit

1. Locate the rocker arm, complete with return spring and
extension into the lower pump body.

2. Insert the spindle, locate the two washers and secure with
the circlips.

3. Position the diaphragm on the lower body seating and pull
rod key plate if fitted.

4. Insert the diaphragm pull rod into the rocker arm extension
key and rotate through 90° to lock in to position.

Note: Ensure the tab on the diaphragm aligns with the mating mark
on the lower body.

5. Fit the upper body, ensuring the mark aligns, and replace
the five screws only finger tight. Operate the pump a few times to
centralise the diaphragm. then tighten the screws securely diagonally.

6. Clean the pump mounting face on the cylinder block and fit
a new gasket.

Page 85

7. Locate the pump on the studs. Insert the rocker arm
through the aperture in the cylinder block wall so the arm rests on the
camshaft eccentric.

8. Secure the pump with nuts and lock washers.

9. Remove the plugs and reconnect the fuel pipes.

10. Run to check for leaks.

Exhaust emission

Kittens have been manufactured to conform with legislation on
exhaust emission. The law requires that carbon monoxide (CO)
emission must not exceed 4.5% with the idle speed increased by 250
rpm or decreased by 100 rpm from the manufacturer's
recommendation.
Vehicles fitted with a carburettor having a tamper proofing device
conform with more stringent regulations requiring the mandatory
sealing of adjusters to prevent the value of exhaust emissions
exceeding the permitted level.
The tamper proof carburettor has the mixture factory sealed by the
fitting of semi-circular plastic shrouds with a snap fastening around
the mixture adjusting nut after the correct setting has been obtained.
If any attempt is made to remove these they will break off. Early
vehicles do not have these shrouds but are still required to be
adjusted to meet the regulations.
The information in the manual includes details of slow running and
fast idle adjustments only.

These are the only legal adjustments within the scope of the owner
mechanic, without specialised equipment.

If further servicing or adjustment is needed this can only be carried
out by an authorised Reliant Dealer. Any adjustment made without
the specialist equipment, or the breaking of the tamper proof shrouds
is now an offence and will result in the vehicle failing to comply with
the emission regulations specified by the Department of Transport.

Carburettor

The following information includes details of slow running and fast
idle adjustments. It cannot be over emphasised that these are the
only adjustments to be carried out by the owner.

Adjusting the carburettor

Before adjusting the carburettor it is essential that maladjustment or
faults from other sources are eliminated. Therefore, it is essential to
check the following:
(a) Valve clearances
(b) Spark plug condition
(c) Contact breaker gap
(d) Ignition timing and advance
(e) Possible air leakage into induction system
The latter will result in erratic running and misfiring due to weak
mixture. Air leaks can be caused by split or perished hoses, a worn,
split r missing "O" ring in the oil filler cap, a damaged rocker cover
gasket or even by the dipstick not being fully seated in its tube.

Operation 4 Adjusting - idling or slow running

1. Run the engine until it reaches normal running

temperature.

2. Turn the throttle adjusting screw (Figure 4) clockwise to
increase the speed, or anti clockwise to decrease until the desired
idling speed is obtained.
The exhaust note should be regular and even at the correct idling
speed of 900 rpm. The carburettor is factory set to idle at this speed.
Should the idle speed alter over time, due to usual wear and tear, and
restoring the correct idling speed results inerratic running, then the
vehicle must be returned to an authorised Reliant dealer for
rectification.

Figure 4 Slow running and fast idle screws

1. Fast idle adjustment screw

2. Throttle adjustment screw

Operation 5 Fast idling (choke) adjustment

Pull out the mixture control (choke) until the linkage is just about to
move the jet. Start the engine and adjust the fast idle screw (Figure 4)
to give an engine speed of 2,250 rpm. Push the choke fully in and
check that there is a clearance of 1.016 mm (0.040 in) between the
end of the screw and the cam. The choke cable should have a
clearance of 1.6 mm (1/16 in) free movement before it starts to pull
on the cam lever.
Note: Any adjustment of the slow running (idling) must be followed by
a check of the fast running adjustment.

Accelerator pedal assembly

The accelerator pedal shares the mounting bracket with the brake and
clutch pedals. This assembly has to be removed from the foot well
before the pedals can be dismantled. The procedure for this is
described in Section H.

Accelerator cable

The accelerator cable is adjusted by means of the trunnion (solderless
nipple) on the operating linkage.

To adjust

1. Slacken the trunnion securing the accelerator cable.

2. Pull the inner cable through the trunnion to take up the

slack.

3. Tighten the screw.

4. Start the engine and check operation. Readjust if necessary.

Accelerator cable removal (Figure 5)

1. From within the vehicle foot well disconnect the inner cable

and nipple from the lug on the pedal stem.

Page 86

Figure 1 Accelerator mechanism

1. Pedal mounting bracket 10. Bearing

2. Set screw 11. Throttle cable

3. Lock washer 12. Abutment bracket

4. Washer 13. Pivot pin and lever assembly

5. Nut 14. Star lock washer

6. Accelerator pedal 15. Trunnion (Solderless nipple)

7. Pedal adjuster screw 16. Washer

8. Lock nut 17. Link

9. Accelerator pedal bearing 18. Clip

19. Throttle return spring

2. Apply pressure to the lugs on the plastic fastener securing
the outer cable to the pedal bracket and withdraw the cable from the
bracket.

3. Remove the accelerator cable grommet from the bulkhead.

4. Slacken the screw in the trunnion and withdraw the cable.

5. Apply pressure to the lugs on the plastic fastener and

disconnect the cable from the linkage bracket.

6. Remove the cable.
Replace in reverse order

Page 87

Air cleaner (Figure 6)

To remove air cleaner element

1. Wipe clean outside of the air cleaner and release the two
clips retaining the body to the base plate..

2. Remove the body, then remove the element.

To replace

1. Clean the base plate and body interior.

2. lightly smear the plastic ends of the element with

petroleum jelly.

3. Position the new element, refit the body and secure with
the two clips.

Figure 6 Air cleaner

1. Air cleaner

2. Paper element

3. Set screw

4. Lock washer
5, Washer

6. Gasket

Page 88

Figure 7 In-line fuel filter

1. Filter element

In-Line fuel filter - Removal and replacement

The in-line fuel filter, situated on the rear chassis side member
forward of the fuel tank, is secured to the pipes by means of spring
clips. The fuel pipe is a push fit into each end of the transparent filter
tubing. When replacing it is vital to note the direction of fuel flow,
which is indicated in Figure 7.

Section Q

Body

Contents

Operation 1 Door window regulator mechanism- removal
& replacement

Operation 2 Door lock mechanism - removal
& replacement

Operation 3 Adjustment of door striker plate

Operation 4 Window frame and glass - removal
& replacement

Operation 5 Side door weather strips - removal
& replacement

Operation 6 Side door - removal & replacement

Operation 7 Door hinge - removal & replacement

Operation 8 Rear door (estate) - removal & replacement

Operation 9 Rear door lock mechanism (estate) - removal
& replacement

Door seals

Operation 10 Bonnet - removal & replacement

Operation 11 Bonnet hinge - removal & replacement

Operation 12 Body complete - removal from chassis

Operation 13 Tread plate (side door) - removal & replacement

Operation 14 Kick plate (estate rear door) - removal
& replacement

Operation 15 Front grill/headlamp bezel - removal
& replacement

Operation 16 Exterior mirror - removal & replacement

Operation 17 Windscreen - removal & replacement

Operation 18 Rear quarter light (saloon & estate) - removal
& replacement

Operation 19 Rear window (saloon) - removal & replacement

Rear Window (Estate) - Removal & refitting

Operation 20 Rubber bumper sections - removal
& replacement

Page 89

Operation 1 Door window regulator mechanism- removal
& replacement
To remove (Figure 1 & 2)

1. Remove the single screw securing the window winder and

remove the handle.

2. Prise the plastic bezels from the door release handle. The
bezel consists of two halves, upper and lower, of interlocking plastic
mouldings.

3. Remove the door panel. This is secured by six "tap-it"
fastenings and three capped screws. Prise the caps from these and
remove the screws, leaving the plastic inserts in the door moulding.

4. Remove the six set screws and lock washers securing the
winder mechanism to the door and detach the mounting plate.

5. Peel off the waterproof membrane from the bottom and
raise enough to clear the winder mechanism.

6. Lower the regulator mechanism and slide the operating arm
from the window channel.

To replace
When refitting the window regulator it is advised that you fit a "drop
glass stop", if not already modified. The procedure is as follows:

1. Liberally grease the window winder regulator and the
mechanism spring.

2. Secure the regulator mounting plate to the door using three
set screws and lock washers.

3. Slide the operating arm into the regulator channel attached
to the door glass.

4. Line up the mechanism with the three pre-drilled holes on
the door and secure to the plate with three set screws and lock
washers.

5. Temporarily fit the winder handle.

6. Wind the window down until the top of the glass is one inch

above the door weather strip.

7. With the glass in this position, drill a 5 mm (3/16 in) hole in
the regulator lower arm directly below the rivet on the operating arm
as shown in Figure 3.

8. Push a 13 mm (1/2 in) set screw through the hole and
secure with a nut and lock washer to provide the necessary drop glass
stop (Figure 3).

9. remove the winder handle.

10. Refit the door panel using the three capped screws and six

"tap-it" fixings.

11. Refit the winder handle and door handle bezels.

Operation 2 Door lock mechanism - removal
& replacement

To remove

1. remove the regulator handle, mouldings and door panel as
described above.

2. Unhook the lock to release mechanism linkage at the door
handle.

3. Unscrew three screws and remove the door handle from
the door.

4. remove four countersunk screws and lock washers and
withdraw the door lock, complete with the door handle linkage.

5. remove the retaining clips and disconnect the linkage from
the lock.

6. remove the exterior door handle secured by set screws and
washers.

Page 90

Figure 1 Door mechanism

1. Interior door handle 17. Lock washer 33. Screw

2. Bezel 18. Striker back plate 34. Lock washer

3. Insert 19. Striker cover plate 35. Nut

4. Screw 20. Striker cover travel stop 36. Regulator mounting plate

5. Screw 21. Clip 37. Screw

6. Washer 22. Screw 38. Lock washer

7. Link, lock to handle 23. Lock washer 39. Screw

8. Adjustment pin 24. Exterior handle 40. Washer

9. Insulation 25. Screw 41. Lock washer

10. Clip 26. Nut 42. Nut

11. Link, internal lock 27. Screw 43. Winder handle

12. Insulation 28. Lock washer 44. Screw

13. Spacer clip 29. Washer 45. Lock washer

14. Lock assembly 30. Screw 46. Regulator link guard

15. Backing plate 31. Lock washer 47. Rivet

16. Screw 32. Window winder regulator

Replace in reverse order. after fitting the external handle to the door,
the plunger screw (adjuster screw) should be set to give a clearance of

1.58 mm (0.063 in) between the plunger and the lock thrust plate.

Operation 3 Adjustment of door striker plate

1. Slacken the two striker plate retaining screws Do Not

remove the screws, otherwise the catch of the striker plate will fall
between the inner and outer body mouldings.

2. Adjust the striker plate (elongated holes in the body
facilitate this) until the door is flush with the body.

3. Retighten the striker plate and then check that the lock
mechanism engages properly on the catch.

Operation 4 Window frame and glass - removal
& replacement
To remove (Figure 2)

1. remove the door panel, regulator mechanism and lock
mechanism as described in Operations 1 & 2.

2. Remove the waterproof sheet completely from the door.

3. With the window fully closed, peel out the rubber silent

channel from the lower frame to expose the lower rivets.

4. Carefully drill off the rivet heads using a 3.97 mm drill (5/32
in), then tap the rivet bodies from the frame.

5. Press the rubber silent channel back in to the frame and
fully lower the window glass.

6. prise the rubber silent channel from the upper frame and
drill off the six rivet heads, tapping the rivet bodies from the frame.

7. Pull the frame slightly outwards, then remove from the
door.

8. The window glass can now be lifted out from the base of
the door.

9. Retrieve the rivet bodies from the bottom of the door and
discard.

To replace

1. Place the window glass into the base of the door.

2. Locate the window frame into the door and carefully locate

over the window glass. Ensure that the glass fits correctly in the
rubber silent channels.

3. Prise the rubber silent channel from the frame and secure
the top half of the frame to the door using six rivets.

4. Press the rubber silent channel back in to the frame and
raise the window glass.

5. Prise the rubber silent channel from the bottom of the
window frame and rivet the frame to the door.

6. Press the rubber silent channel back in to the frame
ensuring it is squarely seated.

7. Lower the window glass.

8. Refit the regulator mechanism, lock assembly, waterproof

membrane door card etc.

Operation 5 Side door weather strips - removal
& replacement
To remove and replace (Figure 2)

1. Remove the door panel as described on Operation 1.

2. Using a 3.97,, (5/32 in) drill, carefully drill off the rivet heads

holding the weather strip to the door panel. Remove the weather strip
and rivet shafts.

3. Position the new weather strip on the door panel and
secure using six 3.175 x 8.89 mm (0.125 x 0.35 in) rivets.

4. With the window fully open, carefully drill out the rivet
heads off the rivets securing the weather strip to the door frame.

5. Push the rivet heads through and remove the weather strip
from the door.

6. Clean off all adhesive or sealant from the weather strip
seating on the door.

7. Smear the back of the weather strip with adhesive/sealant
and its seating on the door and leave to go tacky.

8. Fit the weather strip and rivet in to position.

9. Re-assemble the door.

Operation 6 Side door - removal & replacement

To remove

1. Peel back the carpet from the foot well side to expose the
hinge access panel.

2. Remove the access panel (six screws).

3. With an assistant supporting the door, remove three set

screws, complete with plain washers and lock washers, securing the
lower hinge to the body. Remove the single set screw located at the
rear of the hinge box, secured to the support plate behind the body,
accessible through the access panel in the foot well. Carefully retain
all shims as they were fitted.

4. Repeat instruction 3 for the upper hinge and remove the
door, complete with hinges from the vehicle.
Replace in reverse order.

Page 91

Page 92

Figure 2 Door shell and trim

1. Door 18. Snap cap 35. Lock washer

2. Glass 19. Upper hinge 36. Coach washer

3. Frame 20. Lower hinge with check strap 37. Screw

4. Rubber silent channel 21. Screw 38. Coach washer

5. Rivet 22. lock washer 39. Lock washer

6. Stiffener 23. Washer 40. Nut

7. Weather strip 24. Backing plate 41. Shim

8. Rivet 25. Backing plate 42. Set screw

9. Weather strip 26. Rivet 43. Lock washer

10. Rivet 27. Screw 44. Coach washer

11. Regulator channel 28. Lock washer 45. Door seal

12. Insulation 29. Plate 46. Waterproof membrane

13. Door panel 30. Backing plate 47. Tape for membrane

14. Insulation 31. Rivet 48. Anti rattle pad

15. Door panel insert 32. Support plate 49. Sealing ring

16. Screw 33. Stiffener

17. Washer 34. Screw

Page 93

Figure 2a Door shell and trim DL models

1. Door 25. Casing board (saloon/estate) 49. Shim (2 hole)

2. Frame 26. Casing board pocket 50. Shim (1 hole)

3. Silent channel 27. Retaining bar 51. Washer

4. Frame seal 28. Casing board (van) 52. Lock washer

5. Rivet 29. Retaining plate (saloon/estate) 53. Set screw

6. Glass 30. Retaining plate (van) 54. Support plate

7. Regulator channel 31. Rivet 55. Stiffener

8. Insulation 32. Rear retaining channel (saloon/estate) 56. Set screw

9. Weather strip (outer) 33. Rear retaining channel (van) 57. Lock washer

10. Rivet 34. Rivet 58. Coach washer

11. Waterproof membrane 35. Fastener 59. Set screw

12. Tape 36. Screw(van) 60. Coach washer

13. Upper casing board (saloon/estate) 37. Washer(van) 61. Lock washer

14. Upper casing board (van) 38. Snap cap(van) 62. Nut

15. Weather strip (inner) 39. Upper hinge 63. Courtesy light switch

16. Rivet 40. Lower hinge 64. Coach washer

17. Trim strip 41. Hinge backing plate 65. Lock washer

18. Rivet 42. Rivet 66. Nut

19. Seal 43. Hinge to door plate 67. Shim

20. Door pull 44. Lock washer 68. Coach washer

21. Screw 45. Set screw 69. Lock washer

22. Screw 46. Hinge backing plate 70. Set screw

23. Lock washer 47. Backing plate 71. Door seal

24. Conical spring 48. Rivet

Operation 7 Door hinge - removal & replacement

To remove

1. Remove door as described in Operation 6.

2. Unscrew four countersunk screws and lock washers and

remove the upper hinge from the door

Note: The backing plate assembly is riveted to the door.

3. Repeat for the lower hinge.

Operation 8 Rear door (estate) - removal & replacement
To remove (Figure 4)

1. From inside the rear of the vehicle, remove three screws

securing the rear lamp access panel adjacent to the rear door lower
hinge.

2. Disconnect the snap connector for the number plate lamp,
accessible in the panel.

3. Disconnect the heated rear window wiring (if fitted).

4. Withdraw the rear door harness and grommet from the

body.

5. Remove the check link lug pivot screw and separate the link
from the lug.

6. Remove four nuts, lock washers and plain washers from the
upper and lower hinge studs on the inner face of the door aperture.

7. Support the door and, withdrawing the hinge studs from
the body, lift the door clear of the vehicle.
The rear door hinges are mounted to the door by means of two studs
secured by nuts and plain washers.

Operation 9 Rear door lock mechanism (estate) - removal
& replacement

To remove

1. Remove two countersunk screws and remove the outer
handle from the door.

2. Unscrew six countersunk wood screws and remove the
door lock from the door moulding.

3. If it is necessary to remove the dovetail, use a 3.97 mm
(5/32 in) drill bit to remove the rivet heads, then tap the shafts in to
the door.

4. The dovetail on the body is retained by four rivets and
should be removed using the method above but with a 5.56 mm (7/32
in) drill.

Page 94

5. To remove the striker plate first prise out the access
grommet, then unscrew two countersunk screws securing the striker
to the body.

Figure 3 Window drop glass stop

1. Stop screw

2. Washer

3. Nut

Replace components in reverse order taking note of the following:
Secure the dovetail (female) to the body with four 4.76 x 16.50 mm
(3.175 x 0.65 in) rivets. Secure the (male) dovetail to the door using six

3.175 x 12.7 mm(0.125 x 0.5 in) rivets.

Door seals

The rubber seals are carried on a "V" shaped metal section clipped to
the body flanges. Care should be taken not to hammer the seals on to
the flange as this will cause the metal section to open up so the claw
clips will not hold. A rubber mallet is recommended for this operation.

Operation 10 Bonnet - removal & replacement
To remove (Figure 5)

1. Remove the two nuts, washers and lock washers securing

the right-hand hinge to the body.

2. Repeat item 1 for the left-hand hinge, the fixings for which
also support the lid support bar plate.

3. Withdraw the hinge studs and lift the bonnet clear,
retaining the two hinge to lid gaskets.
Refit in reverse order.

Figure 4 Estate rear door

1. Rear door 16. Rivet 31. Nut

2. Seal 17. Locking handle 32. Lug

3. Upper hinge 18. Key 33. Backing plate

4. Lower hinge 19. Washer 34. Rivet

5. Washer 20. Screw 35. Screw

6. Nut 21. Rear window 36. Screw

7. Rear door lock 22. Weather strip 37. Grommet

8. Screw 23. Link 38. Wiper motor cover

9. Striker 24, Buffer 39. Insert

10. Backing plate 25. Washer 40. Screw

11. Set screw 26. Split pin 41. Kick plate

12. Lock washer 27. Slide plate 42. Washer

13. Dovetail (female) 28. Screw 43. Rivet

14. Rivet 29. Washer

15. Dovetail (male) 30. Lock washer

Operation 11 Bonnet hinge renewal

To remove

1. Remove the bonnet as described in Operation 10

2. Remove the radiator grill/headlamp bezel as described in
Operation 15

3. The right-hand hinge to body fixing is accessible through

the heater blower air duct. Unscrew the single nut. Unscrew the single
nut, lock washer and washer.

4. Withdraw the hinge and gasket from the body.

5. The left-hand hinge to body fixing is accessible only through

the headlamp aperture. Remove the headlamp as described in

Section T Operation 6.

Re-assemble in reverse order.

Operation 12 Body, complete - removal from chassis

The saloon and estate models share the same body mounting points

Page 95

on the chassis frame.
The mounts comprise screw and nut inserts in the frame plus
conventional nuts , screws and bolts through holes in the frame
outriggers and front support bracket. Stiffening brackets located
behind the "A" post to support door hinges are also tied to outriggers
in the chassis side rails and the "B" post roll-over bar is similarly
secured to the frame.

To remove body

1. Disconnect and remove battery.

2. Disconnect starter motor leads.

3. Disconnect Alternator leads.

4. Disconnect temperature sender lead.

5. Disconnect oil pressure lead/pipe.

6. Disconnect high/low tension leads.

7. Disconnect the earth leads from the timing cover screw.

8. Disconnect the speedo cable from the gearbox.

9. Disconnect the throttle cable at the carburettor.

10. Disconnect the choke cable at the carburettor.

11. Disconnect the clutch cable at the bell housing

12. Disconnect the handbrake cable from the rear axle.

13. Drain and remove the radiator.

14. Disconnect the heater hoses ant the bulkhead.

15. Disconnect the steering column lower universal joint.

16. Remove the gear lever gaiter and gear lever.

17. Disconnect the exhaust downpipe at the manifold.

18. Disconnect the brake bundy tube from the master cylinder

at the four-way connector.

19. Remove the seat belt fixings from the transmission tunnel.

20. Remove the seat belt lower mountst.

21. Disconnect the earth lead from the fuel tank support.

22. Remove the front seats complete with runners.

23. Remove five screws from the rear of the body locating to

tapped inserts in the chassis.

24. Remove the carpets followed by the two screws on the
right-hand side and one on the left-hand side securing the floor to the
chassis.

25. Remove two screws holding the body to the front support
bracket and the single screw fixing the air ducts to the front support
bracket on the left-hand side.

26. Remove the screws, lock washers and washers securing the
"A" post hinge support brackets to the chassis outriggers.

27. Remove the four nuts, bolts and washers securing the roll-
over bar to the chassis adjacent to the "B" post.

The body is now free to be manoeuvred over the engine and lifted
from the chassis.

Operation 13 Tread plate (side door) removal & replacement

To remove

1. Using a 3.175 mm (1/8 in) drill, remove the heads from the
eight rivets securing the tread plate to the door sill.

2. Tap out the rivets and remove the tread plate. Replace in
reverse order with eight 3.87 x 9.4 mm (0.150 x 0.37 in) rivets.

Operation 14 Kick plate, (estate rear door) - removal &
replacement

To remove

1. Drill the heads off the six retaining rivets using a 5.56 mm
(7/32 in) diameter drill. Tap out the rivet shafts and remove the kick
plate.
Replace in reverse order using six 4.76 x 10.16 mm (0.181 x 0.4 in)
rivets and plain washers.

Operation 15 Front grill/headlamp bezel - removal
& replacement

To remove

1. Remove the four screws and cup washers securing the grille
to the headlamp bezel moulding. Remove the grille.

2. Remove the two screws and cup washers at each end of the
headlamp bezel, securing the bezel to the body. The bezel can now be
removed.
Replace in reverse order.

Operation 16 Exterior mirror - removal & replacement

The exterior rear view mirrors mounted on each door are secured by
two countersink screws in nylon inserts. The nylon inserts should
remain captive in the door skin when the screws are removed.

Operation 17 Windscreen - removal & replacement

To remove

1. Remove the windscreen wiper arms and blades.

Page 96

2. Cover the bonnet with a suitable cloth to avoid damage to
paintwork.

3. Using a screwdriver with all the sharp edges removed, ease
the ends of the locking strip from the windscreen rubber. pull out the
locking strip

4. With the aid of an assistant working outside the vehicle,
apply hand pressure to the inside of the screen whilst easing down the
lip of the windscreen rubber to release the screen.

5. Lift the windscreen clear, placing it on a blanket or similar
to avoid scratching the class.

6. Examine the windscreen rubber for damage/perishing and
renew if necessary.

To replace

1. Fit the windscreen rubber to the windscreen aperture,
positioning the joint half way up one of the "A" pillars.
Note: If a new rubber is being fitted it should be cut approximately

25.4 mm (1 in) oversize. The ends of the rubber can be forced back so
a tight butt joint is formed.

2. The windscreen can now be fitted by inserting a corner
onto the rubber and progressively easing the lip over the glass using a
suitable tool or a soft tapered piece of dowelling.

3. Using a suitable tool the locking strip can now be inserted
with the join at the opposite "A" pillar. If the old locking strip is to be
re-used it should be lightly stretched before inserting.

Operation 18 Rear quarter light (saloon & estate) - removal
& replacement

To remove

1. Apply firm pressure to the glass from inside the vehicle
adjacent to the "B" pillar whilst easing the lip of the rubber away from
the flange. The quarter glass should now lift out, leaving the plastic air
vent cover attached to the body by four rivets.

To replace

1. Fit the weather strip rubber to the quarter glass.

2. Run a draw cord around the rubber to body groove with the

overlap of approximately 152 mm (6 in) at the bottom edge of the
glass.

3. Whilst an assistant applies firm pressure to the outside of
the glass, pull the draw cord out springing the rubber lip over the
flange.

4. Check for good sealing paying special attention to the area
of the air vent moulding.

Operation 19 Rear window (saloon) - removal & replacement

To remove (Figure 6)

1. Raise the rear window.

2. Disconnect the heated rear window (if fitted) at the bullet

connectors.

3. Remove the domed nut and lock washer securing the
window stay to the window.

4. Whilst supporting the glass, remove the domed nuts, coach
washers and insulating washers from both hinges.

5. Carefully remove the glass, taking care to retain the hinge
gaskets.

6. The locking release handle is secured to the glass by the
lock retaining nut.

7. The hinges are each secured to the body by two domed
nuts, lock washers and backing plates.

Replace components in reverse order.

Rear Window (Estate) - Removal & refitting

Follow the procedure as for the saloon and estate rear quarter light
glass (Operation 18)

Page 97

Figure 6 Rear window - Saloon

1. Rear window 11. Lock washer 21. Nut

2. Sealing rubber 12. Nut 22. Coach bolt

3. Buffer 13. Locking handle 23. Lock washer

4. Hinge 14. Retaining plate 24. Washer

5. Coach bolt 15. Gasket 25. Lock washer

6. Gasket 16. Washer 26. Domed nut

7. Insulation 17. Rear window stay 27. Screw

8. Coach washer 18. Bracket 28. Lock washer

9. Domed nut 19. Tonneau lifting stay 29. Washer

10. Backing plate 20. Washer 30. Spacer

Operation 20 Rubber bumper sections - removal
& replacement

Both the front and rear bumpers comprise a rubber trim section
supported on a metal channel mounted the full width of the body
moulding. The ends of the bumpers are covered by plastic caps, each
retained by a single screw, screwed to the body, through the rubber
trim.

To remove

1. Remove the single screw securing the bumper end cap to
the side of the body, retained by a clip behind the moulding. repeat
for the opposite cap.

Page 98

2. Remove the self-tapping screws retaining the ends of the
bumper to the body.

3. The rubber bumper is supported on a metal channel riveted
to the body. Pull the rubber from the channel section.

4. The metal channels may be removed if required, by drilling
out the nine retaining rivets.

Replace in reverse order, ensuring that the rubber section is correctly
engaged in the metal channel before securing with the two self
tapping screws.

Section R

Interior

Contents

Front seats - adjustment

Operation 1 Front seats - removal & replacement

Operation 2 Dismantling front seats

Rear seats - to fold down

Operation 3 Rear seat - removal & replacement

Seat belts

Carpets & interior trim

Operation 4 Headlining - removal & replacement

Operation 5 Fascia & centre console - removal &
replacement

Front seats - adjustment

Seat adjustment
The front seat is adjustable for reach by moving the lever at the front
of the seat as shown, whilst applying forward or rearward pressure
until it is in the required position (Figure 1). Releasing the lever
secures the seat.
Passenger access to the rear seat is obtained by releasing the floor
catch at the rear of the seat and tilting the seat forward. the catch will
refasten when the seat is lowered. (Figure 2).
Front seats having the reclining seat backrest mechanism fitted are
adjusted by means of the lever at the base of the squab on the
outside of the seat. The seat is adjusted by pulling the lever up to
adjust, then back down to lock. (Figure 2).

Operation 1 Front seats - removal & replacement

1. From underneath the vehicle remove the four nuts with

lock washers and coach washers securing the seat runners to the
floor.

2. The seat can now be lifted out of the vehicle complete with
the runners.
Replace in reverse order ensuing that the thick spacer washers
between the runners and floor are correctly located.

Operation 2 Dismantling front seats

1. Remove the two retaining clips securing the pivot rivets on

the frame to the front brackets on the runners.

2. Prise open the retaining clips, securing the squab cover to
the seat casing frame at the rear of the seat. Pull the cover up over
the padding and frame.

3. Remove the wire retaining clips from the seat cushion
casing frame and peel the cover from the padding and frame. Remove
the padding.

4. The squab support springs can be removed by stretching
the spring and releasing the retaining clip. Refit in reverse order. The
cushion and squab covers should be kept as taut as possible when
fastening the wire retaining clips to the frame.
The reclining mechanism is not user serviceable.

Rear seats - to fold down

The squab of the rear seat folds down to give a flat loading floor. The
seat back is secured by means of rubber retaining straps looped over
brackets mounted on the body sides. To fold the seat, release the
tonneau cover from the rear window (saloon only), lift up the rear
seat cushion, release the rubber retainer straps and fold the rear seat
cushion forward.
Fold the tonneau cover flat against the seat squab to give a flat floor.
Reverse the above routine to return the seat to normal configuration,
remembering to lift the tonneau cover before raising the seat squab.

Figure 1 Front seat fore-aft adjustment

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Figure 2 Front seat release and reclining mechanism

1. Seat release catch - lift to tilt

2. Reclining mechanism lever

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