Redline D600, D860, D610, Syntax, Random User Manual [nl]
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OWNERS MANUAL
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Bicycle Owner’s Manual
This manual meets EN Standards 14764, 14766 and 14781.
Edition 11 2013
IMPORTANT:
This manual contains important safety, performance and service information. Read it before
you take the first ride on your new bicycle, and keep it for reference.
Additional safety, performance and service information for specific components such as
suspension or pedals on your bicycle, or for accessories such as helmets or lights that
you purchase, may also be available. Make sure that your dealer has given you all the
manufacturers’ literature that was included with your bicycle or accessories. In case of a
conflict between the instructions in this manual and information provided by a component
manufacturer, always follow the component manufacturer’s instructions.
If you have any questions or do not understand something, take responsibility for your safety
and consult with your dealer or the bicycle’s manufacturer.
This manual is not intended as a comprehensive use, service, repair or maintenance manual. Please see
your dealer for all service, repairs or maintenance. Your dealer may also be able to refer you to classes,
clinics or books on bicycle use, service, repair or maintenance.
NOTE:
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Contents
GENERAL WARNING p. 5
A special note to parents p. 6
1. First
A. Bike fit p. 7
B. Safety first p. 7
C. Mechanical Safety Check p. 8
D. First ride p. 10
2. Safety
A. The Basics p. 11
B. Riding Safety p. 12
C. O Road Safety p. 13
D. Wet Weather Riding p. 14
E. Night Riding p. 15
F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding p. 16
G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories p. 18
3.Fit
A. Standover height p. 19
B. Saddle position p. 19
C. Handlebar height and angle p. 22
D. Control position adjustments p. 23
E. Brake reach p. 23
4. Tech
A. Wheels p. 24
1. Secondary retention devices p. 25
2. Wheels with cam action systems p. 26
3. Removing and installing wheels p. 26
B. Seat post cam action clamp p. 30
C. Brakes p. 31
D. Shifting gears p. 34
E. Pedals p. 38
F. Bicycle Suspension p. 39
G. Tires and Tubes p. 41
5. Service
A. Service Intervals p. 44
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B. If your bicycle sustains an impact p. 46
Appendix A: Intended Use p. 47
Appendix B: Lifespan of your bike and its components p. 56
Appendix C: Coaster Brakes p. 65
Appendix D: Fastener Torque Specifications p. 65
Appendix E: Teaching your child the rules p. 66
Appendix F: Bicycle Trac p. 69
Assembly Instructions p. 74
GENERAL WARNING:
Like any sport, bicycling involves risk of injury and damage. By choosing to ride a bicycle,
you assume the responsibility for that risk, so you need to know — and to practice — the
rules of safe and responsible riding and of proper use and maintenance. Proper use and
maintenance of your bicycle reduces risk of injury.
This Manual contains many “Warnings” and “Cautions” concerning the consequences of
failure to maintain or inspect your bicycle and of failure to follow safe cycling practices.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word WARNING indicates a
potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, could result in serious injury or death.
• The combination of the safety alert symbol and the word CAUTION indicates a
potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury,
or is an alert against unsafe practices.
• The word CAUTION used without the safety alert symbol indicates a situation which, if
not avoided, could result in serious damage to the bicycle or the voiding of your warranty.
Many of the Warnings and Cautions say “you may lose control and fall”. Because any fall
can result in serious injury or even death, we do not always repeat the warning of possible
injury or death.
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Because it is impossible to anticipate every situation or condition which can occur while
riding, this Manual makes no representation about the safe use of the bicycle under all
conditions. There are risks associated with the use of any bicycle which cannot be predicted
or avoided, and which are the sole responsibility of the rider.
A special note for parents:
As a parent or guardian, you are responsible for the activities and safety of your minor child,
and that includes making sure that the bicycle is properly fitted to the child; that it is in good
repair and safe operating condition; that you and your child have learned and understand the
safe operation of the bicycle; and that you and your child have learned, understand and obey
not only the applicable local motor vehicle, bicycle and trac laws, but also the common
sense rules of safe and responsible bicycling. As a parent, you should read this manual, as well
as review its warnings and the bicycle’s functions and operating procedures with your child,
before letting your child ride the bicycle.
WARNING: Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when
riding; but also make sure that your child understands that a bicycle helmet is for bicycling
only, and must be removed when not riding. A helmet must not be worn while playing, in
play areas, on playground equipment, while climbing trees, or at any time while not riding
a bicycle. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious injury or death.
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1. First
NOTE: We strongly urge you to read this Manual in its entirety before your first ride. At the
very least, read and make sure that you understand each point in this section, and refer to
the cited sections on any issue which you don’t completely understand. Please note that not
all bicycles have all of the features described in this Manual. Ask your dealer to point out the
features of your bicycle.
A. Bike fit
1. Is your bike the right size? To check, see Section 3.A. If your bicycle is too large or too
small for you, you may lose control and fall. If your new bike is not the right size, ask your
dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
2. Is the saddle at the right height? To check, see Section 3.B. If you adjust your saddle
height, follow the Minimum Insertion instructions in Section 3.B.
3. Are saddle and seat post securely clamped? A correctly tightened saddle will allow no
saddle movement in any direction. See Section 3.B.
4. Are the stem and handlebars at the right height for you? If not, see Section 3.C.
5. Can you comfortably operate the brakes? If not, you may be able to adjust their angle
and reach. See Section 3.D and 3.E.
6. Do you fully understand how to operate your new bicycle? If not, before your first ride,
have your dealer explain any functions or features which you do not understand.
B. Safety first
1. Always wear an approved helmet when riding your bike, and follow the helmet
manufacturer’s instructions for fit, use and care.
2. Do you have all the other required and recommended safety equipment? See Section 2.
It’s your responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the areas where you ride, and
to comply with all applicable laws.
3. Do you know how to correctly secure your front and rear wheels? Check Section 4.A.1
to make sure. Riding with an improperly secured wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or
disengage from the bicycle, and cause serious injury or death.
4. If your bike has toeclips and straps or clipless (“step-in”) pedals, make sure you know
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how they work (see Section 4.E). These pedals require special techniques and skills. Follow
the pedal manufacturer’s instructions for use, adjustment and care.
5. Do you have “toe overlap”? On smaller framed bicycles your toe or toeclip may be able
to contact the front wheel when a pedal is all the way forward and the wheel is turned. Read
Section 4.E. to check whether you have toeclip overlap.
6. Does your bike have suspension? If so, check Section 4.F. Suspension can change
the way a bicycle performs. Follow the suspension manufacturer’s instructions for use,
adjustment and care.
C. Mechanical Safety Check
Routinely check the condition of your bicycle before every ride.
Nuts, bolts screws & other fasteners: Because manufacturers use a wide variety of
fastener sizes and shapes made in a variety of materials, often diering by model and
component, the correct tightening force or torque cannot be generalized. To make sure that
the many fasteners on your bicycle are correctly tightened, refer to the Fastener Torque
Specifications in Appendix D of this manual or to the torque specifications in the instructions
provided by the manufacturer of the component in question. Correctly tightening a fastener
requires a calibrated torque wrench. A professional bicycle mechanic with a torque wrench
should torque the fasteners on you bicycle. If you choose to work on your own bicycle, you
must use a torque wrench and the correct tightening torque specifications from the bicycle
or component manufacturer or from your dealer. If you need to make an adjustment at
home or in the field, we urge you to exercise care, and to have the fasteners you worked on
checked by your dealer as soon as possible.
WARNING: Correct tightening force on fasteners –nuts, bolts, screws– on your
bicycle is important. Too little force, and the fastener may not hold securely. Too
much force, and the fastener can strip threads, stretch, deform or break. Either way,
incorrect tightening force can result in component failure, which can cause you to loose
control and fall.
Make sure nothing is loose. Lift the front wheel o the ground by two or three inches,
then let it bounce on the ground. Anything sound, feel or look loose? Do a visual and tactile
inspection of the whole bike. Any loose parts or accessories? If so, secure them. If you’re not
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sure, ask someone with experience to check.
Tires & Wheels: Make sure tires are correctly inflated (see Section 4.G.1). Check by putting
one hand on the saddle, one on the intersection of the handlebars and stem, then bouncing
your weight on the bike while looking at tire deflection. Compare what you see with how it
looks when you know the tires are correctly inflated; and adjust if necessary.
Tires in good shape? Spin each wheel slowly and look for cuts in the tread and sidewall.
Replace damaged tires before riding the bike.
Wheels true? Spin each wheel and check for brake clearance and side-to-side wobble. If a
wheel wobbles side to side even slightly, or rubs against or hits the brake pads, take the bike
to a qualified bike shop to have the wheel trued.
CAUTION: Wheels must be true for rim brakes to work eectively. Wheel trueing is a
skill which requires special tools and experience. Do not attempt to true a wheel
unless you have the knowledge, experience and tools needed to do the job correctly.
Wheel rims clean and undamaged? Make sure the rims are clean and undamaged at the
tire bead and, if you have rim brakes, along the braking surface. Check to make sure that any
rim wear indicator marking is not visible at any point on the wheel rim.
WARNING: Bicycle wheel rims are subject to wear. Ask your dealer about wheel rim
wear. Some wheel rims have a rim wear indicator which becomes visible as the rim’s
braking surface wears. A visible rim wear indicator on the side of the wheel rim is an
indication that the wheel rim has reached its maximum usable life. Riding a wheel that is at
the end of its usable life can result in wheel failure, which can cause you to loose control
and fall.
Brakes: Check the brakes for proper operation (see Sections 4.C). Squeeze the brake
levers. Are the brake quick-releases closed? All control cables seated and securely
engaged? If you have rim brakes, do the brake pads contact the wheel rim squarely and
make full contact with the rim? Do the brakes begin to engage within an inch of brake lever
movement? Can you apply full braking force at the levers without having them touch the
handlebar? If not, your brakes need adjustment. Do not ride the bike until the brakes are
properly adjusted by a professional bicycle mechanic.
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Wheel retention system: Make sure the front and rear wheels are correctly secured. See
Section 4.A
Seat post: If your seat post has an over-center cam action fastener for easy height
adjustment, check that it is properly adjusted and in the locked position. See Section 4.B.
Handlebar and saddle alignment: Make sure the saddle and handlebar stem are parallel
to the bike’s center line and clamped tight enough so that you can’t twist them out of
alignment. See Sections 3.B and 3.C.
Handlebar ends: Make sure the handlebar grips are secure and in good condition. If not,
have your dealer replace them. Make sure the handlebar ends and extensions are plugged. If
not, have your dealer plug them before you ride. If the handlebars have bar end extensions,
make sure they are clamped tight enough so you can’t twist them.
WARNING: Loose or damaged handlebar grips or extensions can cause you to lose
control and fall. Unplugged handlebars or extensions can cut you and cause serious
injury in an otherwise minor accident.
VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY NOTE:
Please also read and become thoroughly familiar with the important information on the
lifespan of your bicycle and its components in Appendix B on Page 43.
D. First ride
When you buckle on your helmet and go for your first familiarization ride on your new
bicycle, be sure to pick a controlled environment, away from cars, other cyclists, obstacles or
other hazards. Ride to become familiar with the controls, features and performance of your
new bike.
Familiarize yourself with the braking action of the bike (see Section 4.C). Test the brakes at
slow speed, putting your weight toward the rear and gently applying the brakes, rear brake
first. Sudden or excessive application of the front brake could pitch you over the handlebars.
Applying brakes too hard can lock up a wheel, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
Skidding is an example of what can happen when a wheel locks up.
If your bicycle has toeclips or clipless pedals, practice getting in and out of the pedals. See
paragraph B.4 above and Section 4.E.4.
If your bike has suspension, familiarize yourself with how the suspension responds to
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brake application and rider weight shifts. See paragraph B.6 above and Section 4.F.
Practice shifting the gears (see Section 4.D). Remember to never move the shifter while
pedaling backward, nor pedal backwards immediately after having moved the shifter. This
could jam the chain and cause serious damage to the bicycle.
Check out the handling and response of the bike; and check the comfort.
If you have any questions, or if you feel anything about the bike is not as it should be,
consult your dealer before you ride again.
2. Safety
A. The Basics
WARNING: The area in which you ride may require specific safety devices. It is your
responsibility to familiarize yourself with the laws of the area where you ride and to
comply with all applicable laws, including properly equipping yourself and your bike as the
law requires.
Observe all local bicycle laws and regulations. Observe regulations about bicycle
lighting, licensing of bicycles, riding on sidewalks, laws regulating bike path and trail use,
helmet laws, child carrier laws, special bicycle trac laws. It’s your responsibility to know
and obey the laws.
1. Always wear a cycling helmet which meets the latest certification standards and is
appropriate for the type of riding you do. Always follow the helmet manufacturer’s
instructions for fit, use and care of your helmet. Most serious bicycle injuries involve head
injuries which might have been avoided if the rider had worn an appropriate helmet.
WARNING: Failure to wear a helmet when riding may result in serious injury or
death.
2. Always do the Mechanical Safety Check (Section 1.C) before you get on a bike.
3. Be thoroughly familiar with the controls of your bicycle: brakes (Section 4.C.); pedals
(Section 4.E.); shifting (Section 4.D.)
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4. Be careful to keep body parts and other objects away from the sharp teeth of
chainrings, the moving chain, the turning pedals and cranks, and the spinning wheels of your
bicycle.
5. Always wear:
• Shoes that will stay on your feet and will grip the pedals. Make sure that shoe laces
cannot get into moving parts, and never ride barefoot or in sandals.
• Bright, visible clothing that is not so loose that it can be tangled in the bicycle or
snagged by objects at the side of the road or trail.
• Protective eyewear, to protect against airborne dirt, dust and bugs — tinted when the
sun is bright, clear when it’s not.
6. Don’t jump with your bike. Jumping a bike, particularly a BMX or mountain bike, can
be fun; but it can put huge and unpredictable stress on the bicycle and its components.
Riders who insist on jumping their bikes risk serious damage, to their bicycles as well as to
themselves. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and
understand Section 2.F.
7. Ride at a speed appropriate for conditions. Higher speed means higher risk.
B. Riding Safety
1. Obey all Rules of the Road and all local trac laws.
2. You are sharing the road or the path with others — motorists, pedestrians and other
cyclists. Respect their rights.
3. Ride defensively. Always assume that others do not see you.
4. Look ahead, and be ready to avoid:
• Vehicles slowing or turning, entering the road or your lane ahead of you, or coming up
behind you.
• Parked car doors opening.
• Pedestrians stepping out.
• Children or pets playing near the road.
• Pot holes, sewer grating, railroad tracks, expansion joints, road or sidewalk construction,
debris and other obstructions that could cause you to swerve into trac, catch your wheel or
cause you to have an accident.
• The many other hazards and distractions which can occur on a bicycle ride.
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5. Ride in designated bike lanes, on designated bike paths or as close to the edge of the
road as possible, in the direction of trac flow or as directed by local governing laws.
6. Stop at stop signs and trac lights; slow down and look both ways at street
intersections. Remember that a bicycle always loses in a collision with a motor vehicle, so be
prepared to yield even if you have the right of way.
7. Use approved hand signals for turning and stopping.
8. Never ride with headphones. They mask trac sounds and emergency vehicle sirens,
distract you from concentrating on what’s going on around you, and their wires can tangle in
the moving parts of the bicycle, causing you to lose control.
9. Never carry a passenger, unless it is a small child wearing an approved helmet and
secured in a correctly mounted child carrier or a child-carrying trailer.
10. Never carry anything which obstructs your vision or your complete control of the
bicycle, or which could become entangled in the moving parts of the bicycle.
11. Never hitch a ride by holding on to another vehicle.
12. Don’t do stunts, wheelies or jumps. If you intend to do stunts, wheelies, jumps or
go racing with your bike despite our advice not to, read Section 2.F, Downhill, Stunt or
Competition Biking, now. Think carefully about your skills before deciding to take the large
risks that go with this kind of riding.
13. Don’t weave through trac or make any moves that may surprise people with whom
you are sharing the road.
14. Observe and yield the right of way.
15. Never ride your bicycle while under the influence of alcohol or drugs.
16. If possible, avoid riding in bad weather, when visibility is obscured, at dawn, dusk or in
the dark, or when extremely tired. Each of these conditions increases the risk of accident.
C. O Road Safety
We recommend that children not ride on rough terrain unless they are accompanied by an
adult.
1. The variable conditions and hazards of o-road riding require close attention and
specific skills. Start slowly on easier terrain and build up your skills. If your bike has
suspension, the increased speed you may develop also increases your risk of losing control
and falling. Get to know how to handle your bike safely before trying increased speed or
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more dicult terrain.
2. Wear safety gear appropriate to the kind of riding you plan to do.
3. Don’t ride alone in remote areas. Even when riding with others, make sure that someone
knows where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
4. Always take along some kind of identification, so that people know who you are in case
of an accident; and take along some cash for food, a cool drink or an emergency phone call.
5. Yield right of way to pedestrians and animals. Ride in a way that does not frighten or
endanger them, and give them enough room so that their unexpected moves don’t endanger
you.
6. Be prepared. If something goes wrong while you’re riding o-road, help may not be
close.
7. Before you attempt to jump, do stunt riding or race with your bike, read and understand
Section 2.F.
O Road respect
Obey the local laws regulating where and how you can ride o-road, and respect private
property. You may be sharing the trail with others — hikers, equestrians, other cyclists.
Respect their rights. Stay on the designated trail. Don’t contribute to erosion by riding in
mud or with unnecessary sliding. Don’t disturb the ecosystem by cutting your own trail or
shortcut through vegetation or streams. It is your responsibility to minimize your impact
on the environment. Leave things as you found them; and always take out everything you
brought in.
D. Wet Weather Riding
WARNING: Wet weather impairs traction, braking and visibility, both for the bicyclist
and for other vehicles sharing the road. The risk of an accident is dramatically
increased in wet conditions.
Under wet conditions, the stopping power of your brakes (as well as the brakes of other
vehicles sharing the road) is dramatically reduced and your tires don’t grip nearly as well.
This makes it harder to control speed and easier to lose control. To make sure that you can
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slow down and stop safely in wet conditions, ride more slowly and apply your brakes earlier
and more gradually than you would under normal, dry conditions. See also Section 4.C.
E. Night Riding
Riding a bicycle at night is much more dangerous than riding during the day. A bicyclist
is very dicult for motorists and pedestrians to see. Therefore, children should never ride at
dawn, at dusk or at night. Adults who chose to accept the greatly increased risk of riding
at dawn, at dusk or at night need to take extra care both riding and choosing specialized
equipment which helps reduce that risk. Consult your dealer about night riding safety
equipment.
WARNING: Reflectors are not a substitute for required lights. Riding at dawn, at
dusk, at night or at other times of poor visibility without an adequate bicycle
lighting system and without reflectors is dangerous and may result in serious injury
or death.
Bicycle reflectors are designed to pick up and reflect car lights and street lights in a way
that may help you to be seen and recognized as a moving bicyclist.
CAUTION: Check reflectors and their mounting brackets regularly to make sure that
they are clean, straight, unbroken and securely mounted. Have your dealer replace
damaged reflectors and straighten or tighten any that are bent or loose.
The mounting brackets of front and rear reflectors are often designed as brake straddle
cable safety catches which prevent the straddle cable from catching on the tire tread if the
cable jumps out of its yoke or breaks.
WARNING: Do not remove the front or rear reflectors or reflector brackets from your
bicycle. They are an integral part of the bicycle’s safety system.
Removing the reflectors reduces your visibility to others using the roadway. Being
struck by other vehicles may result in serious injury or death.
The reflector brackets may protect you from a brake straddle cable catching on the tire
in the event of brake cable failure. If a brake straddle cable catches on the tire, it can cause
the wheel to stop suddenly, causing you to loose control and fall.
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If you choose to ride under conditions of poor visibility, check and be sure you comply
with all local laws about night riding, and take the following strongly recommended
additional precautions:
• Purchase and install battery or generator powered head and tail lights which meet all
regulatory requirements and provide adequate visibility.
• Wear light colored, reflective clothing and accessories, such as a reflective vest, reflective
arm and leg bands, reflective stripes on your helmet, flashing lights attached to your body
and/or your bicycle ... any reflective device or light source that moves will help you get the
attention of approaching motorists, pedestrians and other trac.
• Make sure your clothing or anything you may be carrying on the bicycle does not
obstruct a reflector or light.
• Make sure that your bicycle is equipped with correctly positioned and securely mounted
reflectors.
While riding at dawn, at dusk or at night:
• Ride slowly.
• Avoid dark areas and areas of heavy or fast-moving trac.
• Avoid road hazards.
• If possible, ride on familiar routes.
If riding in trac:
• Be predictable. Ride so that drivers can see you and predict your movements.
• Be alert. Ride defensively and expect the unexpected.
• If you plan to ride in trac often, ask your dealer about trac safety classes or a good
book on bicycle trac safety.
F. Extreme, stunt or competition riding
Whether you call it Aggro, Hucking, Freeride, North Shore, Downhill, Jumping, Stunt Riding,
Racing or something else: if you engage in this sort of extreme, aggressive riding you will get
hurt, and you voluntarily assume a greatly increased risk of injury or death.
Not all bicycles are designed for these types of riding, and those that are may not
be suitable for all types of aggressive riding. Check with your dealer or the bicycle’s
manufacturer about the suitability of your bicycle before engaging in extreme riding.
When riding fast down hill, you can reach speeds achieved by motorcycles, and therefore
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face similar hazards and risks. Have your bicycle and equipment carefully inspected by a
qualified mechanic and be sure it is in perfect condition. Consult with expert riders, area site
personnel and race ocials on conditions and equipment advisable at the site where you
plan to ride. Wear appropriate safety gear, including an approved full face helmet, full finger
gloves, and body armor. Ultimately, it is your responsibility to have proper equipment and to
be familiar with course conditions.
WARNING: Although many catalogs, advertisements and articles about bicycling
depict riders engaged in extreme riding, this activity is extremely dangerous,
increases your risk of injury or death, and increases the severity of any injury.
Remember that the action depicted is being performed by professionals with many years
of training and experience. Know your limits and always wear a helmet and other
appropriate safety gear. Even with state-of-the-art protective safety gear, you could be
seriously injured or killed when jumping, stunt riding, riding downhill at speed or in
competition.
WARNING: Bicycles and bicycle parts have limitations with regard to strength and
integrity, and this type of riding can exceed those limitations.
We recommend against this type of riding because of the increased risks; but if you
choose to take the risk, at least:
• Take lessons from a competent instructor first
• Start with easy learning exercises and slowly develop your skills before trying more
dicult or dangerous riding
• Use only designated areas for stunts, jumping, racing or fast downhill riding
• Wear a full face helmet, safety pads and other safety gear
• Understand and recognize that the stresses imposed on your bike by this kind of activity
may break or damage parts of the bicycle and void the warranty
• Take your bicycle to your dealer if anything breaks or bends. Do not ride your bicycle
when any part is damaged.
If you ride downhill at speed, do stunt riding or ride in competition, know the limits of your
skill and experience. Ultimately, avoiding injury is your responsibility.
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G. Changing Components or Adding Accessories
There are many components and accessories available to enhance the comfort,
performance and appearance of your bicycle. However, if you change components or add
accessories, you do so at your own risk. The bicycle’s manufacturer may not have tested
that component or accessory for compatibility, reliability or safety on your bicycle. Before
installing any component or accessory, including a dierent size tire, make sure that it is
compatible with your bicycle by checking with your dealer. Be sure to read, understand and
follow the instructions that accompany the products you purchase for your bicycle. See also
Appendix A, p. 35 and B, p. 41.
WARNING: Failure to confirm compatibility, properly install, operate and maintain
any component or accessory can result in serious injury or death.
WARNING: Changing the components on your bike with other than genuine
replacement parts may compromise the safety of your bicycle and may void the
warranty. Check with your dealer before changing the components on your bike.
3. Fit
NOTE: Correct fit is an essential element of bicycling safety, performance and comfort.
Making the adjustments to your bicycle which result in correct fit for your body and riding
conditions requires experience, skill and special tools. Always have your dealer make
the adjustments on your bicycle; or, if you have the experience, skill and tools, have your
dealer check your work before riding.
WARNING: If your bicycle does not fit properly, you may lose control and fall. If your
new bike doesn’t fit, ask your dealer to exchange it before you ride it.
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A. Standover height
1. Diamond frame bicycles
Standover height is the basic element of bike fit (see ). It is the distance from the ground
to the top of the bicycle’s frame at that point where your crotch is when straddling the bike.
To check for correct standover height, straddle the bike while wearing the kind of shoes in
which you’ll be riding, and bounce vigorously on your heels. If your crotch touches the frame,
the bike is too big for you. Don’t even ride the bike around the block. A bike which you ride
only on paved surfaces and never take o-road should give you a minimum standover height
clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you
a minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height clearance. And a bike that you’ll use
o road should give you four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with step-through frames. Instead, the
limiting dimension is determined by saddle height range. You must be able to adjust your
saddle position as described in B without exceeding the limits set by the height of the top of
the seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark on the seat post.
B. Saddle position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and
comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• sit on the saddle;
• place one heel on a pedal;
• rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the crank
arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your hips
must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at the
knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding position and to show you how to
make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own saddle height adjustment:
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loosen the seat post clamp
raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
make sure the saddle is straight fore and aftre-tighten the seat post clamp to the
recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make sure that the seat post does not project
from the frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat tube, the purpose of which is to make
it easy to see whether the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be safe. If
your bicycle has such a sight hole, use it instead of the “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark to make sure the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be
visible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case on some suspension bikes, you
must also make sure that the seat post is far enough into the frame so that you can touch it
through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the tip of your finger without inserting
your finger beyond its first knuckle. Also see NOTE above and fig. 5).
WARNING: If your seat post is not inserted in the seat tube as described in B.1 above,
the seat post may break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be adjusted forward or back to help you
get the optimal position on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal riding
position and to show you how to make this adjustment. If you choose to make your own
front and back adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism is clamping on the straight
part of the saddle rails and is not touching the curved part of the rails, and that you are using
the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s) (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders
like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle or
teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your own saddle angle adjustment and you
have a single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the clamp
bolt suciently to allow any serrations on the mechanism to disengage before changing the
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saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage before you tighten the clamp bolt
to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt saddle clamp,
always check to make sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces of the clamp
are not worn. Worn serrations on the clamp can allow the saddle to move, causing
you to lose control and fall.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch and
deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a sudden
failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, the suspension mechanism
may require periodic service or maintenance. Ask your dealer for recommended service
intervals for your suspension seat post.
Small changes in saddle position can have a substantial eect on performance and
comfort. To find your best saddle position, make only one adjustment at a time.
WARNING: After any saddle adjustment, be sure that the saddle adjusting
mechanism is properly seated and tightened before riding. A loose saddle clamp or
seat post clamp can cause damage to the seat post, or can cause you to lose control
and fall. A correctly tightened saddle adjusting mechanism will allow no saddle movement
in any direction. Periodically check to make sure that the saddle adjusting mechanism is
properly tightened.
If, in spite of carefully adjusting the saddle height, tilt and fore-and-aft position, your
saddle is still uncomfortable, you may need a dierent saddle design. Saddles, like people,
come in many dierent shapes, sizes and resilience. Your dealer can help you select a saddle
which, when correctly adjusted for your body and riding style, will be comfortable.
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WARNING: Some people have claimed that extended riding with a saddle which is
incorrectly adjusted or which does not support your pelvic area correctly can cause
short-term or long-term injury to nerves and blood vessels, or even impotence. If
your saddle causes you pain, numbness or other discomfort, listen to your body and stop
riding until you see your dealer about saddle adjustment or a dierent saddle.
C. Handlebar height and angle
Your bike is equipped either with a “threadless” stem, which clamps on to the outside of
the steerer tube, or with a “quill” stem, which clamps inside the steerer tube by way of an
expanding binder bolt. If you aren’t absolutely sure which type of stem your bike has, ask
your dealer.
If your bike has a “threadless” stem (fig. 6) your dealer may be able to change handlebar
height by moving height adjustment spacers from below the stem to above the stem, or vice
versa. Otherwise, you’ll have to get a stem of dierent length or rise. Consult your dealer. Do
not attempt to do this yourself, as it requires special knowledge.
If your bike has a “quill” stem (fig. 7) you can ask your dealer to adjust the handlebar
height a bit by adjusting stem height.
A quill stem has an etched or stamped mark on its shaft which designates the stem’s
“Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension”. This mark must not be visible above the
headset.
WARNING: A quill stem’s Minimum Insertion Mark must not be visible above the top
of the headset. If the stem is extended beyond the Minimum Insertion Mark the stem
may break or damage the fork’s steerer tube, which could cause you to lose control
and fall.
WARNING: On some bicycles, changing the stem or stem height can aect the
tension of the front brake cable, locking the front brake or creating excess cable
slack which can make the front brake inoperable. If the front brake pads move in
towards the wheel rim or out away from the wheel rim when the stem or stem height is
changed, the brakes must be correctly adjusted before you ride the bicycle.
Some bicycles are equipped with an adjustable angle stem. If your bicycle has an
adjustable angle stem, ask your dealer to show you how to adjust if. Do not attempt to
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make the adjustment yourself, as changing stem angle may also require adjustments to the
bicycle’s controls.
WARNING: Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight
can stretch and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either
mistake can lead to a sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Your dealer can also change the angle of the handlebar or bar end extensions.
WARNING: An insuciently tightened stem clamp bolt, handlebar clamp bolt or bar
end extension clamping bolt may compromise steering action, which could cause
you to lose control and fall. Place the front wheel of the bicycle between your legs
and attempt to twist the handlebar/stem assembly. If you can twist the stem in relation to
the front wheel, turn the handlebars in relation to the stem, or turn the bar end extensions
in relation to the handlebar, the bolts are insuciently tightened.
D. Control position adjustments
The angle of the brake and shift control levers and their position on the handlebars
can be changed. Ask your dealer to make the adjustments for you. If you choose to make
your own control lever angle adjustment, be sure to re-tighten the clamp fasteners to the
recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
E. Brake reach
Many bikes have brake levers which can be adjusted for reach. If you have small hands
or find it dicult to squeeze the brake levers, your dealer can either adjust the reach or fit
shorter reach brake levers.
WARNING: The shorter the brake lever reach, the more critical it is to have correctly
adjusted brakes, so that full braking power can be applied within available brake
lever travel. Brake lever travel insucient to apply full braking power can result in
loss of control, which may result in serious injury or death.
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4. Tech
It’s important to your safety, performance and enjoyment to understand how things
work on your bicycle. We urge you to ask your dealer how to do the things described in this
section before you attempt them yourself, and that you have your dealer check your work
before you ride the bike. If you have even the slightest doubt as to whether you understand
something in this section of the Manual, talk to your dealer. See also Appendix A, B, C and D.
A. Wheels
Bicycle wheels are designed to be removable for easier transportation and for repair of
a tire puncture. In most cases, the wheel axles are inserted into slots, called “dropouts” in
the fork and frame, but some suspension mountain bikes use what is called a “through axle”
wheel mounting system.
If you have a mountain bike equipped with through axle front or rear wheels, make sure
that your dealer has given you the manufacturer’s instructions, and follow those when
installing or removing a through axle wheel. If you don’t know what a through axle is, ask
your dealer.
Wheels are secured in one of three ways:
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has an adjustable tension
nut on one end and an over-center cam on the other (cam action system, fig.8 a & b)
• A hollow axle with a shaft (“skewer”) running through it which has a nut on one end and
a fitting for a hex key, lock lever or other tightening device on the other (through bolt, fig. 9)
• Hex nuts or hex key bolts which are threaded on to or into the hub axle (bolt-on wheel,
fig. 10)
Your bicycle may be equipped with a dierent securing method for the front wheel than for
the rear wheel. Discuss the wheel securing method for your bicycle with your dealer.
It is very important that you understand the type of wheel securing method on your
bicycle, that you know how to secure the wheels correctly, and that you know how to
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apply the correct clamping force that safely secures the wheel. Ask your dealer to instruct
you in correct wheel removal and installation, and ask him to give you any available
manufacturer’s instructions.
WARNING: Riding with an improperly secured wheel can allow the wheel to wobble
or fall o the bicycle, which can cause serious injury or death. Therefore, it is
essential that you:
1. Ask your dealer to help you make sure you know how to install and remove your
wheels safely.
2. Understand and apply the correct technique for clamping your wheel in place.
3. Each time, before you ride the bike, check that the wheel is securely clamped.
The clamping action of a correctly secured wheel must emboss the surfaces of the
dropouts.
1. Front Wheel Secondary Retention Devices
Most bicycles have front forks which utilize a secondary wheel retention device to reduce
the risk of the wheel disengaging from the fork if the wheel is incorrectly secured. Secondary
retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your front wheel.
Secondary retention devices fall into two basic categories:
a. The clip-on type is a part which the manufacturer adds to the front wheel hub or front
fork.
b. The integral type is molded, cast or machined into the outer faces of the front fork
dropouts.
Ask your dealer to explain the particular secondary retention device on your bike.
WARNING: Do not remove or disable the secondary retention device. As its name
implies, it serves as a back-up for a critical adjustment. If the wheel is not secured
correctly, the secondary retention device can reduce the risk of the wheel
disengaging from the fork. Removing or disabling the secondary retention device may also
void the warranty.
Secondary retention devices are not a substitute for correctly securing your wheel.
Failure to properly secure the wheel can cause the wheel to wobble or disengage, which
could cause you to loose control and fall, resulting in serious injury or death.
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2. Wheels with cam action systems
There are currently two types of over-center cam wheel retention mechanisms: the
traditional over-center cam (fig. 8a) and the cam-and-cup system (fig. 8b). Both use an overcenter cam action to clamp the bike’s wheel in place. Your bicycle may have a cam-and-cup
front wheel retention system and a traditional rear wheel cam action system.
a. Adjusting the traditional cam action mechanism (fig. 8a)
The wheel hub is clamped in place by the force of the over-center cam pushing against
one dropout and pulling the tension adjusting nut, by way of the skewer, against the other
dropout. The amount of clamping force is controlled by the tension adjusting nut. Turning
the tension adjusting nut clockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating increases
clamping force; turning it counterclockwise while keeping the cam lever from rotating
reduces clamping force. Less than half a turn of the tension adjusting nut can make the
dierence between safe clamping force and unsafe clamping force.
WARNING: The full force of the cam action is needed to clamp the wheel securely.
Holding the nut with one hand and turning the lever like a wing nut with the other
hand until everything is as tight as you can get it will not clamp a cam action wheel
safely in the dropouts. See also the first WARNING in this Section, p. 18.
b. Adjusting the cam-and-cup mechanism (fig. 8b)
The cam-and-cup system on your front wheel will have been correctly adjusted for your
bicycle by your dealer. Ask your dealer to check the adjustment every six months. Do not
use a cam-and-cup front wheel on any bicycle other than the one for which your dealer
adjusted it.
3. Removing and Installing wheels
WARNING: If your bike is equipped with a hub brake such as a rear coaster brake,
front or rear drum, band or roller brake; or if it has an internal gear rear hub, do not
attempt to remove the wheel. The removal and re-installation of most hub brakes and
internal gear hubs requires special knowledge. Incorrect removal or assembly can result in
brake or gear failure, which can cause you to lose control and fall.
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