Page 1
Instructions for
Bifold
Full
PARTS
HARDWARE
WHEELS
H-LW
H-8
2-1/4” CLEVIS PIN
3-1/4” CLEVIS PIN
H-12
HAIR PIN
H-5
WOOD DOWEL
H-11
1-3/4” WOOD SCREW
H-19
3/4” WOOD SCREWS
H-34
(2) B-74-B BACK SLAT - 74”
(2) B-74-S SEAT SLAT - 74”
1
Attach a Wheel (H-LW) to each
Seat Rail (B-37-S) using
(2) 3/4” Wood Screws (H-34)
2
4
2
6
20
28
4
2
K-15 PROP (2)
Push Wood Dowels (H-11)
all the way into holes
as shown.
K-31-B BACK RAIL (2)
(2) K-15 PROP - 15”
(2) K-20-S SEAT SLAT CAP - 20”
(2) K-22-B BACK SLAT CAP - 22”
(1) B-24-S SEAT SLAT SUPPORT - 24”
(1) B-26-B BACK SLAT SUPPORT - 26”
(2) B-9 SEAT LEG - 9”
(6) B-70-M MIDDLE SLAT - 70”
(1) B-56-P PROP CONNECTOR - 56”
(2) B-37-S SEAT RAIL - 37”
(1) K-10-BL BACK LEG
(2) K-31-B BACK RAIL - 31”
(1) K-10-BR BACK LEG
B-37-S SEAT RAIL (2)
Press the Prop Connector (K-56-P)
3
onto the Wood Dowels on the
Props (K-15) and attach with
(2) 1-3/4” Screws (H-19).
K-15
NOTE:
The Prop Connector (K-56-P)
is longer than it looks
in this drawing.
H-19
K-56-P
K-15
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4
Be sure that the
Prop Connector
goes below the
Back Rails.
Attach the Left and Right Back Legs
to the outside of the Back Rails
6
using the 3-1/4” Cevis Pins (H-12).
Do not put on the Hair Pins at this time.
H-8
K-31-B
Attach the Back Rails (K-31-B) to
the outside of the Prop Assembly
using 2-1/4” Clevis Pins (H-8).
Let the Prop Assembly swing
down so that the Prop Connector
can go below the Back Rails.
5
Please double-check your work at
this time. Any error in this
assembly will cause serious
problems later.
H-5
H-8
Be sure that the
Prop Connector
is below the
Back Rails.
K-10-BR
Make sure that the cut-away part
of the Back Legs face in so that
they will support the Back Rails.
Place the Seat Rails (B-37-S) onto
7
the 3-1/4” Clevis Pins and secure
with Hair Pins (H-5).
H-12
H-12
K-10-BL
Be sure that the Props
are on the inside of the
Back Rails.
B-37-S
Now put the
Hair Pins on the
3-1/4” Clevis Pins.
B-37-S
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8
H-8
K-9-B
Attach the Seat Legs (K-9-B) to the
Seat Rails using 2-1/4” Clevis Pins (H-8).
Secure with Hair Pins (H-5).
Make sure that the cut-away part of
the Seat Legs (K-9-B) face in so that
they will support the Seat Rails.
10
Using (3) Middle Slats (B-70-M)
push the Wood Dowels
into the edge holes on
(2) Seat Slat Caps (K-20-S).
Find the (2) Seat Slats (B-74-S)
and push them onto the
Wood Dowels on the Slat Caps.
(The side labeled “SEAT” faces down.)
11
Using (3) Middle Slats (B-70-M)
push the Wood Dowels
into the edge holes on
(2) Back Slat Caps (K-22-B).
K-20-S
B-70-M
B-74-S
K-22-B
B-70-M
9
H-19
K-9-B
Secure Seat and Back Legs
with Wood Screws (H-19).
(These screws are
self-tapping and do not need
pilot holes.)
H-8
H-19
Find the (2) Back Slats (B-74-B)
and push them onto the
Wood Dowels on the Slat Caps.
(The side labeled “BACK” faces down.)
SEAT
12
DECK
Find the Seat Slat Support (B-24-S) and place it under
the Seat Deck. Attach it with (2) 1-3/4” Wood Screws
(H-19) from the top. Turn the Seat Deck over and put
in (3) Wood Screws from the bottom. These screws
are self-tapping and do not need pilot holes.
BACK
DECK
Find the Back Slat Support (B-26-B) and place it under
the Back Deck. Attach it with (2) 1-3/4” Wood Screws
(H-19) from the top. Turn the Back Deck over and put
in (4) Wood Screws from the bottom.
B-74-B
H-19
H-19
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Push the Slat Decks down
14
onto the Wood Dowels and
attach with Wood Screws.
(H-19).
H-19
Operation:
Note:
The base may need
to be shifted to get
the dowels to align
with the holes.
Note:
Wood Screws are
self-tapping and do
not need pilot holes.
Seat
Slat Deck
Back
Slat Deck
Bed position:
Sofa position:
Sofa position:
Lift up Back and swing
down Prop onto notches
on Seat Rail.
This futon frame is made with Tulip Poplar. Any green tint in the wood will change to light brown in a few weeks.
This will happen in 20 to 30 minutes if placed in direct sunlight. Tulip Poplar can be left unfinished, clear finished,
stained, or painted. I prefer the lighter stains over the darker ones because the wood is fairly porous. My favorite
is a clear finish with no stain. Satin polyurethane (oil or water based) works well.
Painting: It is best to start with an interior primer and lightly sand before painting.
Staining: Lightly sand before staining. Wipe stain on with a rag until you get the desired color. If you are going to
use a top coat (such as polyurethane), do not sand again until after the first coat, and then be careful not to sand
away the stain.
Finishing: All finishes work well with Tulip Poplar. A simple wax finish over stain (Minwax for example) is easy. An
oil finish such as Danish oil can be used. Or a clear top coat such as polyurethane works well to seal the wood.
With polyurethanes, the first coat acts as a sanding sealer. So you should lighty sand (180 - 220 grit sandpaper)
after the first coat, wipe the wood clean, and then build up coats for the desired effect.
Adjust Back to a
comfortable position.
We warrant all of our products for five years against any defects that are due to faulty materials or workmanship.
We will promptly correct such defects by repair or replacement, at our option, without charge. This warranty
covers product defects only and will expire five years after date of purchase by the original consumer purchaser,
with proof of purchase required.
This warranty does not apply to damage caused by and resulting from misuse, neglect, accident, or improper
operation, maintenance, storage, transportation, or handling of the product. This warranty is for the original
consumer purchaser for residential use only and does not apply if the product is used in any commercial
application (such as rental property). This warranty does not cover any incidental or consequential damages. If
you feel that you have a claim under this warranty, please contact the store from which it was purchased. If this is
not possible, call us
for advice on handling your claim.
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