Red20Rc R630 FPV SPIDER User Manual

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R630 FPV Spider

Quadcopter

Thank you for purchasing the R630 FPV Spider Quadcopter!

We hope you have a lot of fun building and flying this quadcopter.

REMEMBER

RC Aircraft are not toys! This is a complicated flying machine that

requires skill to build and fly. Whilst the R630 FPV Spider Quad is a

stable and capable flyer, it is not really intended for new pilots.

Make sure you know the rules for the country you are flying in. If in

doubt, seek help from an experienced pilot.

The R630 FPV Spider Quad is supplied in kit form and contains everything you

need to complete the frame:

 Top and bottom plates  Acrylic protective hood  Flight controller anti-vibration mount  FPV camera mounting brackets  HD camera vibration isolation plate  ESC mounting fins  A complete fixings and fasteners pack

Although quality is our primary focus, if you find a part is missing or broken

The R630 is not aimed at beginners so it is likely you already have a pretty good

idea of what you are going to use for this build. As a general rule you will need:

 Turnigy Talon V2 frame hardware  Motors – 28-32 size, 1100kv or lower  ESCs – SimonK flashed 30A  Props – 9 to 12 inch recommended  Flight controller – Any suitable controller (we’ve used KK2.1.5 and APM so

far)

 Radio receiver  FPV camera (micro 21mm size) and transmitter  Battery – 4000 – 5200mah 3S LiPo recommended  HD recording camera to capture your exploits!

Motors: NTM 2826 1100kv (short shaft version)

ESCs: MultiStar 30A BEC with SimonK firmware Flight Controller: KK2.1.5 with Steveis 1.14s Pro firmware Props: 1055 Carbon Fibre Battery: 4000 – 5200mah 3S LiPo (max thickness 25mm) Reciever: FRSky V8 HV Flight Camera: Turnigy IC-120NH Mini CCD Video Camera Video Transmitter: ImmersionRC 5.8Ghz Audio/Video Transmitter with

ImmersionRC 5.8GHz Circular Polarized SpiroNet Antenna V2

HD Camera: GoPro™ Hero 3 Black edition

First we need to do the internal structure and some fiddly bits!

Start by mounting the HD camera anti-vibration plate. These vibration balls are a

pain to fit but take your time and you’ll soon get them all in.

Now add the 6 ESC vertical mounting brackets. These will be a tight fit and may

require a little sanding on the edges to get them in. This is intentional as once in

place they require no glue and will be a strong fit.

Finish the internal structure by adding the three plates that make up the FPV

camera bracket.

Again, these will more than likely be a tight fit so take you time and sand a slight

bevel on the edges of the tabs to help with locating them in place if necessary.

The camera mounting bracket is pre-drilled to suit the Turnigy range of micro

FPV cameras.

Access to this area will be difficult later on in the build so now is a good time to

mount the camera using the M2 screws provided with the camera bracket.

Time to heat up the soldering iron!

The frame is pre-drilled to accept a variety of square pattern power distribution

boards. In the prototype we used the 45mm square 8 output board from

HobbyKing.

Place your ESCs vertically in between the mounting brackets as shown and

solder directly to the PDB. There is a maximum of 25mm depth permissible

inside the frame and most 30A or smaller ESCs should fit within this limit. In the

photo you can see we have placed each set of ESCs “head to toe” and run one

set of cables through the centre channel.

With the internal electronics complete it is now time to start adding the spacers.

Start by adding the 8 20mm metal spaces supplied with the Talon kit. Replace

the countersunk 3mm screws with the M3 x 10mm button head screws

provided.

Next add the remaining 25mm nylon spacers to the bottom plate using the

supplied M3 x 10mm nylon screws. In total there will be 3 black spacers at the

front, 4 at the rear and 2 in the centre. The two in the centre are special and

should have the male ends facing upwards.

Prepare the top plate by attaching four of the six supplied 30mm spacers using

the M3 x 10mm nylon bolts.

At this stage you should also decide how you are going to mount your flight

controller. An anti-vibration mounting plate is included that will suit most APM

style flight controllers. The top plate is also drilled to suit 33 – 45mm pattern

square control boards such as the KK2.1, Naze32 and CC3D with a direct

mounting.

Prepare your Talon booms as per the instructions included with the frame.

Connect up your booms to the ESCs, paying particular attention to which ESC is

connected to which motor.

Now things get a bit fiddly!

Place the top plate onto the frame using those two modified spacers as a guide.

It will take a bit of wiggling to get all the cables contained but once you are ready

use the two remaining 30mm spacers on the top plate to hold things together

while you work.

First line-up and fit the booms using the supplied M3 x 10mm button head

screws. The shorter black M3 screws shown are optional and should be provided

in the Talon kit. These do not add structural strength to the booms but help to

prevent rotation of the booms in a heavy landing. It is up to you if you want to

source and fit these.

With the booms in place, add the seven M3 x 10mm nylon screws to the spacers.

Do not over tighten.

Once you have located your flight controller, Rx and other gear to your

preference, fit the acrylic hood using the remaining M3 x 10mm nylon screws.

The acrylic hood should fit comfortable over most flight controllers that have

horizontal pins. Some controllers with vertical pin headers may be too tall for

the hood once the receiver cables are fitted. If this is the case you may need to

source extension spacers to raise the hood a little.

TIP: The hood is supplied in clear acrylic. To achieve the “frosted” look shown in

the photo, rub over the entire surface gently with fine sandpaper. Use a circular

rubbing motion to achieve the best effect. Additional colours/finishes may be

available in the future.

You’re all done!

Fit your props and test everything works. The frame is designed to fit a standard

4000+ 3S LiPo with a friction fit. The largest battery we have managed to slip in

there is a Multistar 5200mah 3S 10C pack.

Although the battery should be a tight fit, it is a good idea to fit some kind of

battery retention system. In the prototype this was simply an elastic band

looped over the nylon spacers and around the tail to hold the pack inside and

prevent it slipping backwards.

In the prototype we used the KK2.1.5 flight controller. We have also trialled the

HobbyKing HK Pilot APM controller.

Refer to the documentation that came with your controller to learn the best way

to get it setup and ready.

Because this frame has a “Spider” geometry it is necessary to use a custom mix

to ensure flight, yaw in particular, is successful.

The PIDs and settings we are using are included on the R630 product page:

http://store.red20rc.org/product/r630-fpv-spider-quadcopter/

We will keep these up-to-date with the best settings we have found.

Take it easy on the first flights. Fly line of sight and don’t try to fly too far until

you have got a feel for the frame and the controller.

With the PIDs shown on the product page and the KK2.1.5 in Stabilise mode we

have found the R630 to be a very stable and smooth frame. Perfect for those

medium to long-range FPV flights!

Red20Rc R630 FPV SPIDER User Manual

Specifications and Main Features

Frequently Asked Questions

User Manual