Pistol Pete’s Truck Bed Lighting w/Recon Lights
PARTS LIST
# Description
1 Four 3/16” X 2” toggle bolts
2 Four Fender washers 1.5” x 3/8” (SS)
3 1” wide x 1/8” thick aluminum stock to make brackets
4 Four 3/16” nuts
5 One 8ft section of 1.5” PVC electrical conduit
6 Four Allen head machine screws
7 Four 1” expandable well nuts
8 Toggle switch
9 T-tap for power connection to tow hitch socket
10 Zip ties
11 Rustoleum Textured Paint for plastic
(left over from my Ultimate Fly Rod Transporter mod)
12 RECON BED LIGHT KIT
OPTIONAL EQUIPMENT
13 T12 48" Red Fluorescent Safety Sleeves
14 Pipe coupling for making 2-4 friction rings
All components can be obtained from “Evil Orange” (Home Depot) with the exception of
the optional “nightvision” T12 48” Fluorescent Safety Sleeves obtained from
www.creativelightings.com
Locate mounting points for “light bar”. The 2004 Tundra Double Cab has four (4) preexisting holes up underneath the bed rail that allow toggle bolt insertion to hang a bolt
from and allow attachment. All my mods I try NOT to alter the truck so that they are
reversible if someone wishes to sell the truck.
Insert Toggle bolt (with bolt inserted in the reverse direction into wing). This allows one
to attach and detach brackets at any time without the bolt head interference. Add a fender
washer, homemade aluminum bracket and nut to secure in place.
Cut off excess threads. Now you could have inserted the bolt the other way but would
have had to use a double nut process to lock the bolt up inside the bedrail. This way
allows a secure fit that will never come loose.
Insert allen head machine bolt through braket and into well nut. Repeat for other bracket
and then measure the distance between well nut ends to determine length of PVC conduit
that is needed. Cut and dry fit before proceeding.
Prepare a jig to hold the tube by routing a rabbet in a 2x4 scrap. Tape the tube to the jig
to prevent the tube from rolling and to allow alignment of the holes. Measure and mark
off 4 equidistant holes. I traced one of the Recon light pods onto a piece of cardboard
stock and cut it out to use as a stencil.
I then placed the tube, taped to the jig, on my radial arm saw equipped with a dado blade
to make the holes for the light pods to stick through. You can cut these holes with a box
knife or coping saw but a dado makes a much cleaner level cut.
After using the dado a small portion of material exists (thickness of the tube wall) that
must be removed for pod to fit. This is the hashed markings in the picture below. These
need to be cut out so walls of tube are flat. And a dremel makes quick work of it.