Rain Gardens GWQ037 User Manual

A how-to manual
for homeowners
Homeowners in many parts of the country are catching on to rain gardens – land-
scaped areas planted to wild flowers and other native vegetation that soak up rain water, mainly from the roof of a house or other building. The rain garden fills with a few inches of water after a storm and the water slowly filters into the ground rather than running off to a storm drain. Compared to a conventional patch of lawn, a rain garden allows about 30% more water to soak into the ground.
By reducing stormwater runoff, rain gardens can be a valuable part of changing these trends. While an individual rain garden may seem like a small thing, collectively they produce substantial neighborhood and community environmental benefits. Rain gardens work for us in several ways:
g Increasing the amount of water that filters into the ground, which
recharges local and regional aquifers;
g Helping protect communities from flooding and drainage problems;
g Helping protect streams and lakes from pollutants carried by
urban stormwater – lawn fertilizers and pesticides, oil and other fluids that leak from cars, and numerous harmful substances that wash off roofs and paved areas;
g Enhancing the beauty of yards and neighborhoods;
g Providing valuable habitat for birds, butterflies
and many beneficial insects.
Your personal contribution to cleaner water
2
Frequently asked questions
Does a rain garden form a pond?
No. The rain water will soak in so the rain garden is dry between rainfalls. (Note: some rain gardens can be designed to include a permanent pond, but that type of rain garden is not addressed in this publication).
Are they a breeding ground for mosquitoes?
No. Mosquitoes need 7 to 12 days to lay and hatch eggs, and standing water in the rain garden will last for a few hours after most storms. Mosquitoes are more likely to lay eggs in bird baths, storm sewers, and lawns than in a sunny rain garden. Also rain gardens attract dragonflies, which eat mosquitoes!
Do they require a lot of maintenance?
Rain gardens can be maintained with little effort after the plants are established. Some weeding and watering will be needed in the first two years, and perhaps some thinning in later years as the plants mature.
Is a rain garden expensive?
It doesn’t have to be. A family and a few friends can provide the labor. The main cost will be purchasing the plants, and even this cost can be minimized by using some native plants that might
already exist in the yard or in a
neighbor’s yard.
Who should use this manual?
This manual provides homeowners and landscape professionals with the information needed to design and build rain gardens on residential lots. Guidelines presented in this manual can also be used to treat roof runoff at com­mercial and institutional sites. However, the manual should not be used to design rain gardens for parking lots, busy streets and other heavily used paved areas where stormwater would require pretreatment before entering a rain garden.
Rain Gardens – A how-to manual for homeowners
3
Sizing and Siting the Rain Garden
This section of the manual covers rain gar-
den basics – where to put the rain garden, how big to make it, how deep to dig it, and what kind of soils and slope are best. Following the instructions in this section is the best way to ensure a successful rain garden project.
If you already know the size you want your rain garden to be, then skip ahead to the section about building the rain garden. However, take time read the pointers about location, and do find the slope of the lawn. If the location has a slope more than about 12%, it’s best to pick a different location because of the effort it will take to create a level rain garden.
Where should the rain garden go?
Home rain gardens can be in one of two places – near the house to catch only roof runoff or farther out on the lawn to collect water from the lawn and roof. (Figure 1 shows the possible locations on a residential lot.) To help decide where to put a rain garden, consider these points:
• The rain garden should be at least 10 feet from the house so infiltrating water doesn’t seep into the foundation.
• Do not place the rain garden directly over a septic system.
• It may be tempting to put the rain garden in a part of the yard where water already ponds. Don’t! The goal of a rain garden is to encourage infiltration, and your yard’s wet patches show where infiltration is slow.
• It is better to build the rain garden in full or partial sun, not directly under a big tree.
• Putting the rain garden in a flatter part of the yard will make digging much easier. For example, a rain garden 10 feet wide on a 10% slope must be 12 inches deep to be level, unless you import topsoil or use cut and fill.
4
• • • • •
Step
An extension of PVC pipe helps direct downspout water to this rain garden.
not within 10' of foundation
> 30'
from
down spout
street
roof and lawn
drainage
area to back
rain garden
roof drainage
area to front
rain garden
rain garden
length
rain
garden
width
rain
garden
width
close to
down spout
rain garden
length
When considering placement of your rain garden, design with the end in mind. Carefully consider how the rain garden can be integrated into existing and future landscaping. Also, pay attention to views from inside the house as well as those
Rain Gardens – A how-to manual for homeowners
5
throughout the landscape. Determine how far or how close you want your rain garden to outdoor gathering spaces or other play areas. Why not locate it near a patio where you can take advantage of the colors and fragrances for hours on end!
Figure 1 A rain garden can
be built in the front or back yard. Pick a pleasing shape for the rain garden. Crescent, kidney, and teardrop shapes seem to work well.
Consider your overall landscape
6
How big should the rain garden be?
The surface area of the rain garden can be almost any size, but time and cost will always be important con­siderations in sizing decisions. Any reasonably sized rain garden will provide some stormwater runoff control. A typical residential rain garden ranges from 100 to 300 square feet. Rain gardens can be smaller than 100 square feet, but very small gardens have little plant variety. If a rain garden is larger than 300 square feet it takes a lot more time to dig, is more difficult to make level, and could be hard on your budget.
The size of the rain garden will depend on
•how deep the garden will be,
• what type of soils the garden will be planted in, and
•how much roof and/or lawn will drain to the garden.
This information, along with the sizing factor from the tables on page 9, will determine the surface area of the rain garden.
> 10'
from
foundation
< 12%
slope
berm
berm
street
> 30'
from
down spout
close
to down spout
Guidelines are not rules…
The sizing guidelines described in this manual are based on a goal of controlling 100% of the runoff for the average rainfall year while keeping the size of the rain garden reasonable. Establish­ing a 100% runoff goal helps compensate for some of the errors that creep into the design and construction of any rain garden.
If you follow the guidelines in the manual and decide the calculated surface area is just too large for your goals, it is perfectly acceptable to make the rain garden smaller. The rain garden can be up to 30% smaller and still control almost 90% of the annual runoff. On the other hand, it is fine to make the rain garden bigger than the guidelines indicate.
Figure 2
Rain gardens should be located at least 10 feet from the house, on a gentle slope that catches downspout water.
Digging with a rented backhoe.
Rain Gardens – A how-to manual for homeowners
7
How Deep Should the Rain Garden Be?
A typical rain garden is between four and eight inches deep. A rain garden more than eight inches deep might pond water too long, look like a hole in the ground, and present a tripping hazard for somebody stepping into it. A rain garden much less than four inches deep will need an excessive amount of surface area to provide enough water storage to infiltrate the larger storms.
No matter what the depth of the rain garden, the goal is to keep the garden level. Digging a very shallow rain garden on a steep lawn will require bringing in extra topsoil to bring the downslope part of the garden up to the same height as the up-slope part of the garden. As the slope gets steeper, it is easi­er to dig the rain garden a little deeper to make it level.
The slope of the lawn should determine the depth of the rain garden. Find the slope of your lawn by following these steps. (Figure 3 shows how the stakes and string should look.)
1. Pound one stake in at the uphill end of your rain garden site and pound the other stake in at the downhill end. The stakes should be about 15 feet apart.
2. Tie a string to the bottom of the uphill stake and run the string to the downhill stake.
3. Using a string level or the carpenter’s level, make the string horizontal and tie the string to the downhill stake at that height.
4. Measure the width (in inches) between the two stakes.
5. Now measure the height (in inches) on the downhill stake between the ground and string.
6. Divide the height by the width and multiply the result by 100 to find the lawn’s percent slope. If the slope is more than 12%, it’s best to find another site or talk to a professional landscaper.
Using the slope of the lawn, select the depth of the rain garden from the following options:
• If the slope is less than 4%, it is easiest to build a 3 to 5-inch deep rain garden.
• If the slope is between 5 and 7%, it is easiest to build one 6 to 7 inches deep.
• If the slope is between 8 and 12%, it is easiest to build one about 8 inches deep.
EXAMPLE
Todd measures the length of the string between the stakes; it is 180 inches long. The height is 9 inches. He divides the height by the width to find his lawn’s percent slope.
With a 5% slope, Todd should build a 6 inch deep rain garden.
height
x 100 =% slope
width
9 inches
x 100 =5% slope
180 inches
Figure 3
The string should be tied to the base of the uphill stake, then tied to the downhill stake at the same level.
downhill
stake
height
the string must be level
width
uphill stake
Rain gardens more than 30 feet from the downspout
1. If there is a significant area of lawn uphill that will also drain to the rain garden, add this lawn area to the roof drainage area. First find the roof drainage area using the steps above for a rain garden less than 30’ from the downspout.
2. Next find the area of the lawn that will drain to the rain garden. Stand where your rain garden will be and look up toward the house. Identify the part of the lawn sloping into the rain garden.
3. Measure the length and width of the uphill lawn, and multiply them to find the lawn area.
4. Add the lawn area to the roof drainage area to find the total drainage area.
8
How big is the area draining to the rain garden?
The next step in choosing your rain garden size is to find the area that will drain to the rain garden. As the size of the drainage area increases so should the size of the rain garden. There is some guesswork in deter­mining the size of a drainage area, especially if a large part of the lawn is up-slope from the proposed garden site. Use the suggestions below to estimate the drainage area without spending a lot of time.
Rain gardens less than 30 feet from the downspout
1. In this case, where the rain garden is close to the house, almost all water will come from the roof downspout. Walk around the house and estimate what percent of the roof feeds to that downspout. Many houses have four downspouts, each taking about 25% of the roof’s runoff.
2. Next find your home’s footprint, the area of the first floor. If you don’t already know it, use a tape measure to find your house’s length and width. Multiply the two together to find the approximate area of your roof.
3. Finally, multiply the roof area by the percent of the roof that feeds to the rain garden downspout. This is the roof drainage area.
What type of soils are on the rain garden site?
After choosing a rain garden depth, identify the lawn’s soil type as sandy, silty, or clayey. Sandy soils have the fastest infiltration; clayey soils have the slowest. Since clayey soils take longer to absorb water, rain gardens in clayey soil must be bigger than rain gardens in sandy or silty soil. If the soil feels very gritty and coarse, you probably have sandy soil. If your soil is smooth but not sticky, you have silty soil. If it is very sticky and clumpy, you probably have clayey soil.
EXAMPLE
Todd’s house is 60 feet by 40 feet, so the roof area is 2400 square feet. He estimates that the downspout collects water from 25% of the roof, so he multiplies 2400 by 0.25 to get a downspout drainage area of 600 square feet.
Roof Area: 60 ft by 40 ft = 2400 square ft.
Drainage Area: 2400 square ft. x 0.25 = 600 square ft.
. If the rain garden
is far from the house, and you don’t want a swale or downspout cutting across the lawn, run a PVC pipe underground from the down­spout to the rain garden. In this case do calculations as for a rain garden less than 30 feet from the house.
Rain Gardens – A how-to manual for homeowners
9
Using the Rain Garden Size Factors
Having estimated the drainage area, soil type, and depth for your rain garden, use Table 1 or Table 2 to determine the rain garden’s surface area. Use Table 1 if the rain garden is less than 30 feet from the down­spout, and use Table 2 if it is more than 30 feet from the downspout.
Table 1 Rain gardens less than 30 feet
from downspout.
3-5 in. 6-7 in. 8 in. deep deep deep
Sandy soil 0.19 0.15 0.08 Silty soil 0.34 0.25 0.16 Clayey soil 0.43 0.32 0.20
EXAMPLE
Todd’s rain garden is less than 30 feet from the downspout, and his lawn has a 5% slope, so he will have a 6-inch deep rain garden. His lawn is silty, so Table 1 recommends a size factor of 0.25. He multiplies the downspout drainage area, 600 square feet, by 0.25 to find the recommended rain garden area, 150 square feet.
600 square ft. by 0.25 = 150 square ft.
1. Find the size factor for the soil type and rain garden depth.
2. Multiply the size factor by the drainage area. This number is the recommended rain garden area.
3. If the recommended rain garden area is much more than 300 square feet, divide it into smaller rain gardens.
Table 2 Rain gardens more than 30 feet
from downspout.
Size Factor, for all depths
Sandy soil 0.03 Silty soil 0.06 Clayey soil 0.10
Simple soil tests
Two small tests can ensure your soil can handle a rain garden:
• Dig a hole about 6 inches deep where the rain garden is to go and fill the hole with water. If the water takes more than 24 hours to soak in, the soil is not suitable for a rain garden.
•Take a handful of soil and dampen it with a few drops of water. After kneading the soil in your fingers, squeeze the soil into a ball. If it remains in a ball, then work the soil between your forefinger and thumb, squeezing it upward into a ribbon of uniform thickness. Allow the ribbon to emerge and extend over the forefinger until it breaks from its own weight. If the soil forms a ribbon more than an inch long before it breaks, and it also feels more smooth than gritty, the soil is not suitable for a rain garden.
The map is a starting point for assessing what type of soils you might find in your yard. However, the soil on a small plot of a yard can be very different from the soils indicated on the map. Use the simple soil test described here for a more accurate representation of the soils in the possible rain garden location. More information about sampling and testing lawn and garden soils can be obtained at county UW-Extension offices.
How long and how wide should the rain garden be?
Before building the rain garden, think about how it will catch water. Runoff will flow out of a downspout and should spread evenly across the entire length of the rain garden. The rain garden must be as level as possible so water doesn’t pool at one end and spill over before it has a chance to infiltrate.
The longer side of the rain garden should face upslope; that is, the length of the rain garden should be perpendicular to the slope and the downspout. This way the garden catches as much water as possible. However, the rain garden should still be wide enough for the water to spread evenly over the whole bottom and to provide the space to plant a variety of plants. A good rule of thumb is that the rain garden should be about twice as long (perpendicular to the slope) as it is wide.
When choosing the width of the garden, think about the slope of the lawn. Wide rain gardens and rain gardens on steep slopes will need to be dug very deep at one end in order to be level. If the rain garden is too wide, it may be necessary to bring in additional soil to fill up the downhill half. Experience shows that making a rain garden about 10 feet wide is a good compromise between the effect of slope and how deep the rain garden should be. A rain garden should have a maximum width of about 15 feet, especially for lawns with more than about an 8 percent slope.
To determine the length of the rain garden:
1. Pick the best rain garden width for your lawn and landscaping.
2. Divide the size of your rain garden by the width to find your rain garden’s length.
10
Choose a size that is best for your yard
Remember that these are only guidelines. The size of the rain garden also depends on how much money you want to spend, how much room you have in your yard, and how much runoff you want to con­trol. Again, you can reduce the size of your rain garden by as much as 30% and still control almost 90% of the runoff. If the sizing table sug­gests that the rain garden be 200 square feet, but there is only enough room for a 140-square-foot rain garden, that’s fine. A smaller rain gar­den will usually work to con­trol most stormwater runoff, although some bigger storms might over-top the berm.
EXAMPLE
Todd wants a 10-foot wide rain garden, so he divides 150 by 10 to find the rain garden length, 15 feet.
rain garden area
= length
width
150 ft
2
= 15 ft
10 ft
Runoff flows into a new rain garden (shown before plants are fully grown).
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