Q.V.P. VAKUUM FRAME PRESS User Manual

Page 1
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
AD
11/15/12 - Frame Press Instructions.cdr REV 12
Your "Q.V .P." frame press is unique in that it has a 6" or 24” high top. This special Gusset box top gives over twice the height of conventional frame presses. This means pressing more flat panels at one time or large curved pieces can be pressed in place. In addition, unlike others, it is made with one piece of material with only 8" or 24”of seam at each corner . This means less chance of failure due to seam delamination.
Y our Frame Press Includes:
Lifters VCA6F (VAKuum Connector
THE VAKUUM FRAME PRESS
Polyurethane 6" or 24” top Aluminum side frames, with adhesive tape applied. Corner Brackets Foam Gasket Material Instructions Bleeder V alve Hinges T oggle Clamps and screws
Assembly)
IMPORTANT: Your table top must be flat and non­porous or the frame will leak. Unlike a vacuum bag that only has one or two short sides to seal, the frame press has a long linear perimeter that must be sealed. Do not be concerned if your vacuum pump cycles on and off more often than when using a vacuum bag.
Building the T able Top
A Smooth, FLAT NONPOROUS TABLE TOP IS ESSENTIAL IN GETTING A GOOD VACUUM SEAL. You must spend the time to get it flat for
trouble free frame pressing. The table top should be made from 3/4" or thicker MDF, plywood or particle board. A single sheet is best, however, you can splice 2 sheets together for the larger press. Once the table top is cut to size apply a single sheet of SMOOTH plastic laminate to the top (NON MATTE FINISH). This will make the top nonporous which is very important. If you need to have a joint, apply a bead of Silicone II to the joint and push the second piece into the joint and wipe leaving a slight crown. A slight hump of silicone where the gasket material touches the seam is a better seal than a slight valley below the gasket.
The frame should take about 1 to 2 hours to assemble depending on its size. Building the table can take a day or two.. The following chart is used to size your table top.
Frame Size
I.D.
25” x 25”
54” x 54”
54” x 54”
54” x 102”
54” x 126”
54” x 126”
66” x 102”
66” x 126”
66” x 126”
If you have a special size frame press, add 2.5" to the inside length and width to determine the table top size.
T able Top Size
O.D.
27.5” x 27.5”
56.5” x 56.5”
56.5” x 56.5”
56.5” x 104.5”
56.5” x 128.5”
56.5” x 128.5”
68.5” x 104.5”
68.5” x 128.5”
68.5” x 128.5”
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TABLE TOP
BOX FRAME
DRAWING A
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Page 2
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
THE VAKUUM FRAME PRESS
7/11/12 - Frame Press Instructions.cdr Page 2
The key to the top laying flat is the box frame that supports the top. Straight, dry 2"X6"‘s are recommended. Joint the edges if necessary to make them straight. Make the box as shown in DRAWING A. Use brackets or cleats to hold the table top to the frame box. Use short screws to attach the brackets to the underside of the tabletop. Do not puncture the top surface with a screw as it will cause a leak. This method is used as it allows for shimming the tabletop to assure flatness. Level the top with shims if necessary. This is the most important step in building the table. If it’ s not flat, you could have leakage. Also, if it’s cupped, you could press a curve into your piece. Once the tabletop is completed, it can be used to assemble the frame press.
Applying the SMOOTH Laminate
If you can, purchase a sheet of laminate that will cover the table in one piece. If you have a seam, apply a bead of silicone II along the joint and push the second piece into it, thus filling the seam. Remove the excess. It’s best to leave a slight crown at the joint rather than a slight depression. Where the gasket material comes down on the seal, it will seal better on a slight crown rather than into a depression.
Assembling the Frame Press
Lay the aluminum frame pieces on the table and assemble the joints. Place the steel corner brackets inside the aluminum frame. Slide each joint together. Screw the frame to the connectors with the 1/4-20 phillips head screws using the pre-drilled holes.
Assembling the T op to the Frame:
To assemble the Gusset Top to the frame, elevate the frame 6" or more off the table with blocks with the bottom side (tape) up. This allows you to drop the T op inside the frame. Hold the top in place with several spring clamps. The Top will fit inside the frame. The 2 1/2" flange from the Top should sit on the frame without any bunching or ripples along the frame.
The top is slightly smaller than the frame to eliminate the possibilities of wrinkles or bunching of the material. Hold each corner with a spring clamp and make sure the top is centered.
Note: If you didn't install the frame press when received, you should re-etch the bag top if it's more than one week after shipping date as per the packing slip.. Etch the bag flange (the side that will stick to the tape on the aluminum frame) with PVC pipe cleaner. Etching will give better adhesion.
Remove about 12" of the backing material from the tape from the center of one end only. Press the flange in place as you continue removing the backing from the tape. DO
NOT PRESS THE FLANGE WITH MUCH FORCE A T THIS TIME. You may have to pull up the flange if
you did not center the top correctly . Do the same for the other end. The long lengths should be ripple free, remove the backing material and press the long length in place. Again starting in the center and working toward the end. At this point you have the bottom stuck in place.
Once the top is stuck in place, take a dowel or hard roller and roll around the frame to press the top in place. If you make a mistake in a short length, you can pull the top and reset it. Now remove the paper from the side of the frame and roll the remainder of the flange to the side. Trim excess.
Applying the Foam Gasket T ape:
Apply the foam gasket tape, to the poly top, around the outside edge of the bottom of the frame . Drawing B. Remove about 12 - 18" of backing and start in the center of the front side and work your way around the frame. Make a smooth curve at the corners as in Drawing B. When you come around to the beginning, run the tape to the inside of the Foam Gasket tape just applied, thus making the two rows parallel and tight to each other. This will give you a long joint that will be vacuum tight.
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74 Apsley St. - Hudson, MA 01749 Tel: 978-562-4680 - Fax: 978-562-4681
Page 3
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
THE VAKUUM FRAME PRESS
7/11/12 - Frame Press Instructions.cdr Page 3
Making the Baseboard
Y ou must make a baseboard or platen for inside the frame. It is similar to the baseboard used in a vacuum bag with saw kerfs 1/8 - 3/16' deep, every 6 to 10" in both directions. This helps improve the seal and cuts down on leakage problems. The baseboard dimensions should be 6" less than the inside of the frame, thus giving a
minimum 3" space Around the frame. Since it lays flat on the tabletop, it can be anywhere from 3/8" to 3/4" thick. You must round all the edges to eliminate all sharp corners. Do not screw the Baseboard to your table top, it will cause leaks, use contact cement or just let it lay in place.
NOTE: The 3" gap between the baseboard and the inside of the frame, helps improve the vacuum seal. Also make sure you push the bag flat on the table around the perimeter of the baseboard when you are pulling vacuum. This will improve the seal and prevent the bag from pulling off the frame.
Installing the VCA6F:
You will need to install a VAKuum Connector Assembly (VCA6F) into your table top as per Drawing D. Drill a 3/4" hole (check the diameter of your VCA6F) in your table where you wish to place the VCA6F. The center of the VCA6F must be below an intersection of the grid lines (saw kerfs) on your baseboard.
Countersink a relief hole in the bottom of your baseboard for the VCA6F bolt head and washers to fit into. Depending on the thickness of your baseboard, the top nut on the VCA6F may come completely through the baseboard. The VCA6F must be slightly below the baseboard. Also, never let the gusset top cover the VCA6F as it can seal the vacuum hole. Always have something on top of the VCA6F (workpiece, piece of board with all edges rounded, etc.).
If you use a thick baseboard, you will need to drill a 1/2" hole through the baseboard that lines up with the VCA6F. Your hole through the baseboard must be at the intersection of a saw kerf (DRAWING D). If you made a mistake and the VCA6F doesn't line up with a grid line on the top of your baseboard, just cut another grid line that connects to the existing grid and goes across the hole.
At this point the Frame Press is ready to use. Use the rubber snap clamps to hold the frame in place. If you use mechanical clamps to hold the frame down, you can have uneven pressure, this will cock the frame and cause leakage. For those who are going to dedicate the Frame Press to the table, attach the hinges.
Attaching the Hinges:
The bottom of the hinges have oval slots. The frame must be able to be squashed down when under vacuum, thus the bottom screws should be loose. Set the frame in place on top of the table with hinges hanging down over the back of the table. When the frame is locked in place, the gap between the table top and the aluminum frame should be about 3/16". Put the screws in at the bottom of the slots, this allows the back of the press to move down when vacuum is applied.
Warning: Do not attach the hinge at a right angle to
the table top. The frame must be able to compress the foam, therefore, it must free to float. If the hinge is on top of the table, the hinge knuckle will keep the foam from compressing and pr ovide a seal
T oggle Clamps:
The toggle clamps are to help create a seal until vacuum pressure generates enough force to maintain its own seal. See diagram on page 7 for placement. See diagram E for installation.
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Page 4
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
THE VAKUUM FRAME PRESS
7/11/12 - Frame Press Instructions.cdr 9/16/06 Page 4
Center the top clip on the aluminum frame (drawing E) and drill a 5/32 hole. Use the #10 metal screws to attach the clip to the frame. Hang the toggle on the clip. The top holes in the toggle plate should be about in the center of the edge of the MDF table top. Screw in place with 4 wood screws. Adjust the U clamp so that the gasket compresses slightly and provides a good initial seal to draw vacuum. Do not over tighten as this could cause compression set in the gasket material. Drawing E.
Bleeder V alve
Connect the VAKuum hose to the VCA6F , then connect the bleeder valve (Drawing C). The other side of the bleeder valve is connected to the VAKuum hose that goes to your vacuum pump. Just open the bleeder valve to allow air into the frame when you want to open the frame.
Note: If your pump does not evacuate the Frame Press fast enough, you can attach a VAK Pump to the bleeder valve. The VAK-Pump would only be used during the initial pump down then could be disconnected for other uses in the shop
Checking For Leaks:
THERE ARE FOUR SOURCES OF LEAKAGE; THE GASKET JOINT, THE GUSSET SEAMS, THE JOINT ON EACH SIDE OF THE FOAM GASKET TAPE (TO THE TABLE TOP AND THE TOP) and THE T ABLE TOP/VCA6F.
Checking the Gusset Seam
With the frame down and under vacuum, put some water inside the frame at each corner. Start at one corner, if it leaks at the corner seam you will see the water, in the form of droplets, move along the creases in the bag and along the frame.
Checking the Foam T ape Most causes of leakage will be at the interface of the Foam Gasket tape and tabletop. If you can’t locate the leak by listening, spray water at the Foam Gasket seam. Go around the table and look inside the frame for water bubbling in. If the leak is not at the butt joint, put a C clamp where the leak is occurring.
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Don’t over tighten the clamp as it could cock the frame and cause a leak elsewhere. The table may need shimming as a permanent fix.
Another test is to walk around the frame and press on the frame every foot or two. Many times you will find the spot that is not sealing and you can add a snap clamp or C clamp at this spot.
A frame press (FP) has a very large area to seal (up to 35') and it tends to cause the pump to cycle on and off more often than a bag. Under normal conditions a FP will cycle every 3 to 5 minutes. Some have achieved up to a 60 minute cycle by paying close attention to details and adding a vacuum tank.
You can improve the seal by applying a small bead of Silicone II around the inside edge of the gasket material. The key is not to have it wider than 1/8” where it touches your table top. If it's too wide, it can prevent the gasket from compressing because the silicone is much denser than the gasket material. If this happens, the frame doesn't compress evenly and you could be worse off. Better to apply a smaller amount and add more latter than to apply too much.
Drawing G (Page 7)
Also when applying the tape make sure to butt the 2nd row against the 1st row. (The gap in this drawing is only to show 2 rows.)
Drawing B
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Page 5
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
THE VAKUUM FRAME PRESS
7/11/12 - Frame Press Instructions.cdr 9/16/06 Page 5
Drawing C
Frame Top
CAUL
1 1/4“
x
1 1/4“
Frame
WORK PIECE
BASE BOARD WITH SAW CUTS
Table Table
VCA6F
6“ or 24” High Gusset
Bag Top
Press
bag flat
on table
1 1/4“
x
1 1/4“
Frame
Foam Seal
To VACUUM PUMP
Drawing D
VCA6F or VCAF
Note: If the threads on the VCA(6) do not drop below the table bottom, remove some material from the bottom -NOT the TOP of the table.
Bleeder Valve Release
Grooved
Baseboard
Metal Washer Rubber Washer
Table Top
Nut
To VACUUM PUMP
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Page 6
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
THE VAKUUM FRAME PRESS
7/11/12 - Frame Press Instructions.cdr Page 6
Top of aluminum frame
Drawing E
Frame Top Foam Tape
Table
Drawing F
Allen Head Screw
& Spacer
Lifter
drill a 5/32 hole
Screws Provided by QVP
Wood Screws
Frame Top
Table
Back screw hole
in lifter
Foam Tape
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6 1/2"
End of table top
74 Apsley St. - Hudson, MA 01749 Tel: 978-562-4680 - Fax: 978-562-4681
Page 7
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
THE VAKUUM FRAME PRESS
11/14/12 - Frame Press Instructions.cdr Page 7
WARNING: Do not overload the Frame Press or the force of vacuum will pull the top off the frame or bend the frame (this is better than ripping the poly top). This is especially true with large curved work. Close the frame over the workpiece and pat the plastic on the 3” space between the frame and baseboard. This prevents the frame from being pulled in. The plastic top should go against the workpiece and the table top with no or very little stretching.
Formica Top: It is very important that the Formica finish be a smooth and not a matte finish.
Applying paste wax to the perimeter of the table and gasket will do two things, give a smother finish plus a better vacuum seal and the wax makes it easier to remove glue squeeze out from the table top.
Tips from an experienced user: To increase the holding force of the high tack adhesive tape that holds the top to the bottom of the frame, apply duct tape around the inside of the frame and down on to the top. This not only provides additional holding force but most importantly also keeps sawdust from getting on to the high tack tape. If the duct tape is not added, the high tack adhesive tape will loose it’s adhesive quality and will need to be replaced periodically depending on the frequency of use and dust level in the shop.
Duct
Toggle Clamps: Center the top clip on the aluminum frame (drawing E) and drill a 5/32 hole. Use the #10 metal screws to attach the clip to the frame. Hang the toggle on the clip. The top holes in the toggle plate should be about in the center of the edge of the MDF table top. Screw in place with 4 wood screws. Adjust the U clamp so that the gasket compresses slightly and provides a good initial seal to draw vacuum. Do not over tighten as this could cause compression set in the gasket material.
Toggle clamp diagram for frame presses 4 x 10 & 5 x 10
34.25” for a 68.5” side 28.25” for a 56.5” Side
Toggle clamp diagram for frame presses 4 x 8 & 5 x 8
34.25” for a 68.5” side 28.25” for a 56.5” Side
Hinges
Center of Rail
42” from end
7” from end
Hinges
Center of Rail
52.5”
Tape
7” from end
Note 1
Toggle clamp diagram for 54“ x 54” Frame Press
Hinges
BASE BOARD
Poly top
2 rows of gasket material stuck to poly top (no gap)
Silicone II
TABLE TOP
DRAWING G
Note 1: Press the top to the table top between the frame and baseboard prior to drawing vacuum. This prevents the frame from bending in.
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7” from end
Page 8
INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING
THE VAKUUM FRAME PRESS
7/11/12 - Frame Press Instructions.cdr Page 8
Adding a vacuum tank. Adding a vacuum tank will significantly increase the
time between cycles and you should consider this option if you are experiencing cycle times of one to two minutes. It is very simple to add. Since a vacuumed down top has very little air space, just a small amount of leakage will quickly fill this space and cause the unit to cycle. It’ s a function of the size of the tank. A 10 gallon tank or larger is suggested. The tank can expand this space by anywhere from 5 to 10 times in size, thus, 5 to 10 times longer between cycles.
The drawing shows how to include the tank into your frame press set-up. It’s a very simple set up, if you make it yourself, just make sure all your connections are vacuum tight.
Once the tank is installed and the frame press is pumped down to vacuum level, the time between cycles will become longer . When ready to open the press, shut off the valve to the tank then open the bleeder valve. This will save the vacuum in the tank and you will not have to pump it down every time you press a new piece.
When ready to press again, close the lid, turn on the pump and then open the valve to the tank.
Frame
Press
Tee
Valve
More than one tank can be added by connecting them with a TEE.
Pump
Bleeder
V alve
T ANK
1
T ANK
2
T ANK
3
Page 9
BASIC VENEERING
PRINCIPLES
03/08/2007 r1 - Basic Veneering Principles.cdr
FLAT SURF ACES
1. You can either cut the substrate to finished size or slightly oversized and trim later . Good substrate materials are; MDF , p article board or plywood. If solid wood is to be used, a cross ply must be applied and allowed to dry unless the panel is less than 1/4" thick.
2. Prepare a caul by rounding all edge that will be touched by the VAK bag. The caul should be approximately 1/2" larger than the substrate and made from 1/2 to 1" thick melamine coated particle board. If the caul has too much of an overhang, it can bow up in the center and you will not have a good pressing. Any flat material can be used, however, the coated stock has the advantage of the glue squeeze out not sticking.
3. Glue one face of the substrate and place the veneer on the substrate. Do not glue the veneer . Use veneering tape (not masking tape) to tape the veneer to the substrate on opposite sides, not on all 4 sides (the veneer has to be able to move when pressed). The veneer should be about 1/4" larger than the substrate so that it overhangs the substrate by approximately 1/8" on all sides, this allows for slight movement and trimming later .
4. Place the caul on the veneer and tape it in place.
CURVED SURF ACES
1. Build your form with the knowledge that it will see almost 1 Ton/sq.ft. of pressing force. A weak mold will get crushed. This is also true of curved furniture. Veneering a hollow round base can be a problem unless the inside is structurally sound. If you are veneering a curved piece of finished furniture (like a juke box) that cannot be taken apart, stuff it with bubble pack. Bubble pack can be stuffed into every corner and is much better to use than a general purpose inflatable bladder .
2. Make the mold convex whenever possible and do not totally close it in. Leave the bottom open or cut some slots in the bottom so that air is not trapped inside.
3. Assemble your veneer “sandwich” as per the flat panel instructions. Place it on the form and slide it into the bag. Hold the assembly on the form as the bag is being pumped down. Once evacuated, the bag will hold everything down.
4. Tape the top caul to the assembly only at the front and bottom edge and not the side edges. If you tape sides, the inner plies may not slide into their proper radius without causing a misalignment problem.
5. Slide the whole assembly into the bag.
6. If you want to veneer both sides at the same time, flip the assembly, at step 3, over and repeat for the second side. Y ou may want to use a bottom caul for ease of handling. It can be larger than the substrate since it will be laying flat on the baseboard and will protect the veneer as you slide the assembly into the bag.
Top Caul
Substrate
Bottom Caul
Veneer
Base Board
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Notes:
A. Always try a dry run to make sure all the pieces fit to gather and fit in the bag without problems. Go as far as to pull the maximum vacuum with a new piece or shape.
B. Know your time limits for assembly, glue, and bag evacuation so that you don't get caught short.
C. For guidelines on building a form go to https://www.qualityvak.com/tech2.html.
OVER
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Page 10
ADDITIONAL VAKUUM BAG
03/08/2007 r1
VENEERING TIPS
Always dry test the system before trying something new like a fast setting glue, a large item or a new form. This way you can be sure that the work piece will fit in the bag and you have sufficient time to do all that needs to be accomplished in the time allowed.
If the object in the bag is large, like hollow columns or a box, you can use a shop vac to evacuate the bulk of the air . A shop vac moves large volumes of air quickly, however, it does not get a very high vacuum level needed to supply the pressing force required for a good bond. Turn the VAK Pump on, then insert the shop vac in the open end. It will quickly pull the bag down and tight against the workpiece. Remove the nozzle and close the bag, this will allow the V AK Pump to finish the job.
A word of caution about continuously running a shop vac in a closed system. Any electric motor needs an air flow to cool it. If it is run continuously while attached to a closed system, like the bag, the motor can burn out. Running it for 10 - 20 seconds to evacuate the bag is not a problem.
Any time a form is used inside the bag, make sure it is strong enough to withstand the pressure of 1800 lbs/sq.ft. Make a dry run!
Also, do not make a form or veneer a piece that has only 2 contact points with the baseboard. For example, think of an inverted U shaped piece that is 2' wide, 5' across at the base and 6 - 8" high at the top of the arch. If this were placed on the baseboard and VAKuum applied, it would snap most baseboards and possibly cause the bag to implode (explosion pushes out, implosion pulls in). First, all the pressure from the top area (2' X 5' = 10 sq ft X 1800 lbs/sq.ft. = 18000 pounds of force) is on the 2 contact points. Since the base of the inverted U would have less than 1 sq.ft of surface area to distribute the load, the 18000 lbs is distributed as 9000 lbs on two .5 sq.ft. areas. The baseboard is seeing 1800 lbs/sq.ft on the underside and since the top side is only supported by in two small .5 sq.ft. areas (5' apart) it will snap most baseboards in the center .
Even if the baseboard was strong enough to withstand this pressure, the bag would not. We have a situation where the bag gets pushed in, under the arch, (roughly a 6" x 5' area). The bag will stretch until it hits something or will burst after a certain point. The open area must be blocked to prevent the stretching. A strong form to fit under the arch will not only prevent the bag from stretching but will also support the arch and baseboard.
If for some reason you are not able to fully protect the bag from sharp corners or excessive stretching, consider purchasing an extra sheet of vinyl material and use it as a protective layer. The double thickness will help extend the life of the bag.
After the bag has been used and stretched, it will develop pin holes which will cause leakage. Turn the bag over, plug the hole and reinstall the VCA (VAKuum Connector Assembly). The bottom side will be fresh and un-stretched for the most part. With the top side now on the bottom, it will be pressed against the bottom of the baseboard. Since the bottom does not contain any saw cuts, the pin holes will be sealed when pressed against the baseboard.
Excess glue must be cleaned from the bag as the hard glue could puncture the bag. To make cleaning easier and to add protection to the bag, order a length of vinyl material and use it as a cover over the workpiece. The vinyl sheet can be removed and easily cleaned. When used it will also cover pin holes that have been created if the bag has been overly stretched.
CAUTION: Some glues will stick to the bag: polyurathane and some epoxies are known to stick to bags. Use wax paper or some material that will isolate the bag from the glue.
Avoid, if possible, having the seam pulled tight against the baseboard as shown below. This can be the cause of the material ripping at the edge of the seam. This is different than the seam delaminating. Leave some space between the bag and the baseboard so that the bag can flatten out against itself and not put any stress at the edge of the seam.
Here it can rip due to stress.
Base Board
Seam
The bag flattens out against itself and does not stress the edge of the seam.
Base Board
Always fully support the bag, do not set-up on saw horses without complete support.
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