Q.V.P. Quick Press User Manual

INSTRUCTIONS FOR Q.V.P.
AE
12/18/01 Quick Press Instructions.cdr
Quick Press
Please read entirely before starting
The QuiK-Press (QP) is designed to be a light weight, readily available press to veneer or laminate small FLAT panels. It has limited height, so please do not overload it or the frame will bend or worse, the poly will rip.
The QP is always ready to use, just attach your vacuum pump and press. Its light weight makes it easy to move around the shop. While the glue is drying, the QP can (while still attached to the vacuum pump) be taken off the bench and leaned against the wall (horizontal or vertical), hung from hooks on a wall or ceiling, or stored in a wood rack.
Materials List:
4 - 72“ side pieces (taped) 4 - 32" side pieces with corners attached 8 latches with 32 screws 2 - hinges with 12 Brass Screws 2 - poly 76" x 36" sheets (Etched)
25' Gasket tape 1/2" x 1/4” 1 - VCA(6)W VAKuum Connector Assm. Instructions
Assembling the frames.
Lay the side and end pieces out on a table. Note that the end pieces are paired, the "knobs" extend in different directions. These knobs allow you to set the frame sideways or upright without the frame touching the floor. Assemble the frame by tapping the ends into the side with a mallet. The flange on the long side pieces go to the inside of the frame. The taped sides should be up and on the outside of all pieces. When assembled, the corner markings are to keep the end pieces paired together on a side.
Etch the flanges. Check the date of your invoice, if it's more than one week from the time you start to assemble the QP, you should etch the poly for better adhesion. Use PVC pipe cleaner and wipe the outer 2-3 inches of the poly sheets.
Remove the paper covering from one end of the frame and pat the poly sheet to stick it lightly to the frame. Do not bend the flap down and stick it to the side at this time. Do the same to the other end. Y ou want the poly to lay flat on the frame without ripples. If it sags too much and you have ripples, then pull up that end or side and reset. This is why you only want to just tack it to the frame at this time.
When the poly is properly set, roll or rub it to make it stick to the frame. Push out any bubbles. Then fold the poly over and stick it to the outside of the frame. Y ou will have to trim the corners. Do the same for the other frame.
Applying the Gasket material.
On one frame, apply the foam gasket. Start at the middle of the long side about 1/8" in from the outer edge. Do not stretch or pull the tape as you are laying it down. It should be in a slight compression mode as you lay it down on the poly. Curve around the corners. When you reach the starting point overlap the two ends by 12" and butt the two tightly together. This will give a good seal.
Attaching the hinges. Lay the two assembled frames on top of each other with the gasket material acting as a spacer. Use clamps to squeeze the two frames to be about .125" apart (use a couple of 1/8" drills or make a spacer. Lay the hinges on the back side about 6" in from each end. Drill and tap for a 10-32 Brass screw. Drill the bottom (slotted) holes at the bottom of the slot, this allows slippage during compression. If you don't have the tap, drill a 5/32 hole and self thread the hole with the screw. The aluminum is soft enough to be self tapped. Don't over tighten the screws. If you strip the threads and it doesn't hold, just move the hinge over a ½" and redo it.
Attaching the latches. On the front, place the latches 6" in from each corner. Also place one in the center of the front and back side. Place a latch 3” in from each corner of the two end pieces. Set the top "hook" level with the slight radius of the top of the frame (about 1/16” down). Drill two 7/64” holes for the self tapping screws and install the top hook. Do not over tighten the screws or they will strip. Place the latch so that it hooks under the bottom frame and drill your holes. Apply the two screws. Drawing A
Attaching the poly sheet:
With the taped side up, lay one sheet of poly (etched side to the frame) on top and center it on the frame. The poly should be about 2" longer all around the frame. Hold in place with a couple of spring clamps along the side. Let the poly sag a little in the center, don't pull it tight across the frame.
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NOTE: Initially, you may need to squeeze the frame with clamps in order to get the latch over the hook.
Do not leave the frame latched when not in use. This will cause the foam to “compression set“ and you may not get a good seal, thus, making it necessary to replace the foam gasket.
05/15/07 r3
Quality VAKuum Products, Inc.
74 Apsley St. - Hudson, MA 01749 Tel: 978-562-4680 - Fax: 978-562-4681
Making the baseboard.
Your work should sit on a flat panel. This is a baseboard that is no larger than 2' x 5' and can be 3/8" to ¾" thick. Cut saw kerfs in both directions about 4" apart. If you use a very narrow kerf saw blade (about .030"), then the baseboard can act as your caul. Using the baseboard as the caul reduces the total height of the materials in the press. The thin kerfs will not telegraph through to the veneer. (Verify with some testing first.) Round over all the edges. See tips about additional saw kerfs.
Whatever material you use, it must stay flat. If it becomes cupped, the panel you press can become cupped.
Attaching the VCA(6)W to the baseboard (Drawing B)
At the intersection of two saw kerfs, drill a 1-1/8" dia. hole 5/16" deep. Then drill a ¾" for VCA6 or 5/8” for VCA dia. Hole through the baseboard making sure the exit hole is clean and splinter free. Remove the nut, metal washers and rubber washers. Push the brass piece through the baseboard so that the bolt head is in the recessed hole (should be just below the top of the baseboard). Place one of the rubber washers over the stem and snug it to the baseboard. With the frame press upside down, place the baseboard in the press and close down the bottom so it touches the brass stem. Use a 1/2” dia. hole punch or a sharp knife and cut an X in the poly over the hole in the barb. Push the poly down to the rubber washer and trim the excess away. Do not over trim, it should be a tight fit. Place the other rubber washer, large metal washer then the lock washer. With one hand keep the poly from twisting as you tighten the nut. Do not over tighten.
Walk around the frame and squeeze the frame every 6 inches to see if it affects the leakage. If the gap on the back side where the hinges are is too wide, you won't get a good seal. Back the screws out of the top hinges and if it can compress more and gives a better seal, you need to file the screw holes into oval slots before putting the screws back in.
Tips. If your piece does not cover the VCA6, the bag will get sucked into the hole and seal before full vacuum is reached. Cover the hole with a 2 to 3" block ½" thick (round all sharp edges).
If you made the kerfs with a thin blade, cut additional lines radiating out from the 1 - 1/8" hole and intersecting the other saw kerfs. This improves evacuation time. With 1/8" saw kerfs this is not necessary as they are about 4 times wider than those made with the thin saw blades.
If you attached the VCA6W without a baseboard and the head comes down on your caul, the caul must have a length of mesh along it or the top of the caul must have saw kerfs on it. Without either, the air has nowhere to travel as the poly top will come down and self seal around the VCA6W.
Stay Lifter
Top
Foam Tape
Bottom
Attaching the VCA(6)W without a baseboard(Drawing C)
Remove all washers but the rubber one and the large metal one next to the bolt head. Drawing C. Place the VCA(6)W inside the frame where you want it in the poly (can be the top or bottom frame). Where the barb presses against the poly , punch a 1/2“ dia. Hole or cut an X (with a sharp knife) and then push the barb through the poly down to the rubber washer. Trim the excess poly from around the stem of the VCA(6)W. Put the other rubber, large metal and lock washer on the stem that is outside the poly sheet. Tighten the nut.
You must be aware of several factors when using the QP without a baseboard. The bolt head should have several slots filed in the top of the hex head. This allows for better air evacuation. The head should come down on the top of your caul or some mesh material. If the poly comes directly down on the hex head, it will self seal and you will not get full evacuation from the press. The air must always have a path to get to the vacuum hole, whether it be mesh or saw kerfs in your baseboard or caul, it needs a path, no matter how small, to the vacuum hole. If the head comes down on a smooth surface, the poly will self seal around the head and prevent evacuation.
Do Not Leave Quick Press Latched When not in Use!
T esting the frame press.
Cover the VCA6 with a piece of stock or mesh and close the lid. Attach the pump and turn on. It should pump down and the automatic controller will shut the pump off. If it cycles on and off every two minutes or less and the cycles do not lengthen in time, you have a leak.
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