Page 1 of 79
2nd Version
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 3
CUSTOMER SERVICE 4
FEATURES 5
FRE-ASSEMBLY INFORMATION 6
REQUIRED TOOLS 7
HARDWARE & OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES 8
OTHER HARDWARE & OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES 9
OTHER REQUIREMENTS 12
PART LIST 13
SECTION 1: UPPER FRAMES 14
SECTION 2: LOWER FRAMES 28
SECTION 3: LANDING GEAR ASSEMBLY 40
SECTION 4: DRIVING SYSTEM 42
SECTION 5: TAIL ASSEMBLY 44
SECTION 6: CONTROL SYSTEMS 50
SECTION 7: ROTOR HEAD 53
SECTION 8: LINKAGE RODS AND SETTINGS 56
FRE-LIGHT CHECKS 72
WARNINGS 73
ADJUSTMENTS 74
HOW TO HOVER 75
HOW TO FLY FORWARD 77
AFTER FLIGHT CHECKS 78
WHAT IF THE HELICOPTER CRASHED 78
SPECIFICTION 79
Page 2 of 79
INTRODUCTION
Congratulation and thank you for the purchase of great product! It is our sole desire for
you to enjoy the quality workmanship and performance of any of our Nitro powered
helicopters. We believe we have the latest designs and technology incorporated into our
model helicopters. Our CNC parts are produced using the best high density materials &
anodized using material hardening finishes with the tightest of tolerances. Our new
helicopters feature the latest advances in R/C helicopter design. The simple and
mechanically superior EMS design (also known as CCPM) ensures a helicopter that will
be more responsive and more stable than any other R/C helicopter you have ever
flown. Three servos are attached directly to the Swashplate to ensure precise control.
This kit features all metal construction, and a carbon or composite frames are standard.
Along with great products, our staffs are RC guys that fly and have hands on experience
with total manufacturing & testing of our helicopters. In addition, we stand behind all our
products 100% with satisfaction guaranteed. Our kits will be shipped 100% complete
and we can assure you that once you fly your helicopter you will love it.
The QUICK 50
We believe you hold in your hands one of the best helicopters manufactured in the world
today. The Quick 50 is one of the famous versions of our Big Nitro Quick line. It is
a bigger, stronger frames, yet powerful machine. This baby delivers amazing power
smoothly throughout the entire range of its nitro motor. It functions so responsive and
stable. The Quick 50 Pro version features a fully machined head, metal
grips, dual bearing tail rotor, carbon fiber frames, carbon rudder push rod, and carbon
fiber boom supports. The Big Quick 50 Sport version features a G10
fiberglass frame, machined metal head, molded plastic grips, carbon boom supports,
carbon rudder push rod, and dual bearing tail rotor. Our helicopters are carefully
designed and tested, and manufactured of the highest quality materials available.
In a short time, you can be flying.
We ask that you please read the entire manual before starting the construction of the
Quick 50, and if you have any questions our technical support staff can be reached
at
(610) 282-4811 M-F 9-6, S 9-4 Eastern time,
or by email at
For the latest information and updates, please visit our website at
chuck@quickworldwide.com.
Page 3 of 79
www.quickworldwide.com
CUSTOMER SERVICE
Quickworldwide
201 South 3
rd. St. & 309 N.
Coopersburg, PA 18036
Phone: (610)-282-4811
Fax: (610)-282-4816
Office Hours:
Mon – Fri: 8:30 – 6:00
Sat: 8:30 – 1:30
(Eastern Daylight Time)
Technical Support Personnel:
Chuck – chuck@quickworldwide.com
Jon –
Websites:
http://www.hhiheli.com
http://www.quickheli.com
http://www.giantscaleplanes.com
E-mail:
hhi@fast.net
jon@quickworldwide.com
Page 4 of 79
FEATURES
1. Frame Construction: Quick 50 frames are made of the highest Quality Black G-10
Frames or Carbon Fiber. These frames are not only rigid but will provide excellent
vibration absorption.
2. One-Way Hex Start Shaft System: The one-way bearing allows the engine to
continue to run after the starter motor has been stopped.
3. Constant Tail Rotor Drive System: The constant tail system will provide full tail
authority during engine off maneuvers.
4. Belt driven Tail: Belt Driven tail is not only a reliable way to drive a tail, but is also
very smooth and low maintenance.
5. High Quality Ball Bearings: Quick 50 offers ball bearings on all moving parts.
6. EMS Collective System: The EMS Collective design allows ease of setup with fewer
moving parts. EMS constitutes overall design simplicity and represents the future of
helicopter technology.
7. Heavy-Duty Clutch System: Based on the same design as our famous heavy-duty
clutch upgrade that fits most popular machines, this clutch will give many years of
problem free operation.
8. Control Linkages: The control linkages that are provided with the Quick Learner Kit
are high quality 2.3mm stainless steel rods and the rod ends are made of a high quality
Delrin.
9. Single Blade Axle Design: The single blade axle design is simple very responsive
system, with very consistent flight characteristics.
10. Advanced Airfoil Fly-bar Paddles: These paddles will provide the best both kind of
flight characteristics for both 3D & Sport flying. Not only do they provide smooth forward
flight, they also provide quick response upon demand.
11. Rearward facing Engine Design: This design provides quick access to the glow
plug and is advantageous for easy engine removal.
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PRE-ASSEMBLY INFORMATION
Warning
The radio-controlled model helicopter contained in this kit is not a toy.
Rather, it is a sophisticated piece of equipment. This product is not recommended for
use by children without adult supervision. Radio controlled models such as this are
capable of causing both property damage and/or bodily harm to both the
operator/assembler and spectators if not properly assembled and operated. Hobbies &
Helis assumes no liability for damage that could occur from the mis-assembly and/or
use/misuse of this product.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
We strongly encourage all prospective and current R/C aircraft pilots to join the
Academy of Model Aeronautics. The AMA is a non-profit organization that provides
services to model aircraft pilots. As an AMA member, you will receive a monthly
magazine entitled Model Aviation, as well as a liability insurance plan to cover against
possible accident or injury. All AMA charter aircraft clubs require individuals to hold a
current AMA sporting license prior to the operation of their model. For further information,
please contact AMA at:
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5161 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
USA
Phone: (317) 287-1256
www.modelaircraft.org
Before you begin
Quick Helicopter kits are packaged with care and attention to detail. We recommend
when you are ready to begin building this model that you examine the kit carefully,
inspect the contents of each package, and read and understand these instructions
thoroughly before starting assembly. It is suggested that you purchase a parts box for
the small fasteners and hardware, or use small bowls or other containers.
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REQUIRED TOOLS
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HARDWARE & OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
GLUES AND THREAD LOCK COMPOUNDS
RADIO MOUNTING ACCESSORIES
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ENGINES, GLOW PLUGS, AND EXHAUST SYSTEM
ENGINES: we recommend OS50SX but others may work
GLOW PLUGS: OS # 8…OSMG2691
One-Piece Muffler
FUEL SYSTEM
Two-Piece Muffler
OTHER HARDWARE & OPTIONAL ACCESSORIES
3MM FLYBAR STIFFENERS
HHI 402
Page 9 of 79
60 SIZE SKID STOPS
HHI 200 AVAILABLE IN COLORS
LANDING GEAR DAMPENERS
W
W
W
W
HHI2004
SERVO
ARM SET
SERVO FIXING PLATES
ITH
ITHOUT
ITH
ITHOUT
• Transmits force of fastener to
plastic instead of rubber
HHI 1205 SERVO MOUNT KIT
• Includes hardware and fixing
plates to mount 5 servos
Page 10 of 79
W
W
ITH
ITHOUT
BASE LOAD ANTENNA
HHI 53**
AVAILABLE IN BLUE, GOLD,
PURPLE
AND IN 40, 50, AND 72 MHz
FINISHING CAPS
• Adds color and style
• Distributes force across larger surface area
3mm 4mm
(20 pcs in a package) (8 pcs in a package)
BLACK HHIM11100B --BLUE HHIM11103 HHIM11108
GOLD HHIM11101 HHIM11106
GREEN HHIM11100G --PURPLE HHIM11100 HHIM11105
RED HHIM11100R --SILVER HHIM11100 HHIM11107
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OTHER REQUIREMENTS
Radios:
Any radio that supports EMS/CCPM Mixing will work fine. Hobbies & Helis & its
distributors carry various lines of helicopter radios.
Note: Please consult the instruction for your Gyro for setting the overall travel
and limits to ensure proper operation and travel of Tail Pitch Slider.
Servos:
Any sport servo will offer acceptable performance. However, because servos
operate all critical functions of the helicopter, they can be the single most
important component that contributes to proper function of the helicopter. Due to
the nature of EMS collective, we suggest the use of digital servos to enhance
and ensure matched servo timing without servo interaction
Locktite Warning (CRITICAL):
.
This is a general warning about the use of Locktite and its
importance. Locktite must be used anywhere that a metal
fastener i.e. (M2, M3, M4 Cap Head Bolts, Set Screws etc.) is
threaded into a metal part i.e. (Bearing Blocks, Cross-members,
etc.). Failure to use Locktite can result in loosening of critical
operating components, loss of control of the model, and can
lead to a crash.
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PART LIST
• In your kit, parts are bagged according to each major assembly and are labeled “Bag
1, Bag 2, etc.” You will note that the heading for each assembly indicates which bag
correlates with each assembly.
• For a good installation, only open up the bag that you need for particular assembly.
• Please check the parts in that bag against the parts list shown for each assembly as
well as each subassembly to make sure there are no missing parts.
• Small parts such as nuts and bolts can be put into containers or trays to prevent
losing parts.
• Part No. with ***** means that part is not included in the kit.
• The colors of drawings in this manual may look different from the parts you have in
the kit.
No. Bag No. Description Quantity Check
1 Bag 1 For Upper Frame Assembly 1
2 Bag 2 For Lower Frame Assembly 1
3 Bag 3 Landing Gear 1
4 Bag 4 Driving System 1
5 Bag 5 For Tail Assembly 1
6 Bag 6 Control System 1
7 Bag 7 Head Rotor 1
8 Bag 8 Linkage 1
9 Frame Frame 1
10 HB Hardware Bag 1
Canopy
Carbon Push Rod
11
Loose in Box
Tail Gear Belt
Tail Boom
Flybar
Decal Sheet
Instruction CD
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
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SECTION 1: UPPER FRAMES Bag 1
• In your kit, parts are bagged according to each major assembly and are labeled “Bag
1, Bag 2, etc.” You will note that the heading for each assembly indicates which bag
correlates with each assembly.
• For a good installation, only open up the bag that you need for particular assembly.
• Please check the parts in that bag against the parts list shown for each assembly as
well as each subassembly to make sure there are no missing parts.
• Small parts such as nuts and bolts can be put into containers or trays to prevent
losing parts.
• No. with ***** means that part is not included in the kit.
• Colors of the parts in the drawings may look differently from ones in the kit.
1-1 ELEVATOR SHAFT BEARINGS
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Frame Upper Frame (from Frame Bag) 2
2 1 5X10X4Flanged Bearing 2
Note: The holes on the frames are designed for “push-fit” feature. Sometime you may
have to sand them a little bit before pushing the bearings in. The bearing flange mates
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against the inside of the frame.
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1-2 LEFT AILERON & RUDDER SERVO SUBASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step
2***** Servo 2
3 HB M2.5x14 Cap Head Bolt 8
4 HB M2.5 Locknut 8
***** Part No. with ***** means that part is not included in the kit.
Note: If the servos come with anti-vibrating rubber, insert them on the servos first. We
recommend using the servo fixing plates to protect and get the best performance from
the servos. Please see “Hardware & Optional Accessories” for more details.
L. Upper Frame Subassembly 1
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1-3 RIGHT AILERON & ELEVATOR SERVO SUBASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 1-1 R. Upper Frame Subassembly 1
2 Servo 2
3 HB M2.5x14 Cap Head Bolt 8
4 HB M2.5 Locknut 8
1-4 INNER ELEVATOR CONTROL ARM SUBASSEMBLY
No. Bag # Description Qty
1 1 Inner Elevator Control Arm 1
2 1 Elevator Control Shaft 1
3 HB M3x5 Set Screw 1
4 HB M3x7 Pivot Ball Stud 1
Note: Remember to apply Locktite for Set Screw
and Pivot Ball Stud (see Locktite Warning on
page 11)
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1-5 TAIL TRANSMISSION SUBASSEMBLY
No Bag# Description Qty
1 1 Counter Gear 1
2 1 Counter Gear Shaft 1
3 1 Counter Gear Lock Pin 1
4 1 M4 E-clip 2
5 1 Counter Gear Bearing Block 2
6 1 Pulley Gear Plate 1
7 1 Pulley Gear Block Pin 1
8 1 Pulley Gear 1
9 ***** JP Weld glue 1
-Install Counter Gear to Counter Gear Shaft using Counter
Gear Lock Pin (No. 3) and M4 E-clip to secure it. Apply JP
Weld glue around the pin.
-Put Counter Gear Bearing Block (the lower) in with the
Flange facing up
-Install Counter Gear Bearing Block (the upper) with the
Flange facing up
-Install Pulley Gear Plate (No. 6)
-Insert Pulley Gear Lock Pin (No. 7). Apply JP Weld glue
around the pin
-Install Pulley Gear and retain with M4 E-clip
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1-6 UPPER FRAME INSTALLATION
1-6-a ELEVATOR CONTROL ARM-RIGHT SIDE
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 1-3 R. A&E Arm Subassembly 1
2 Step 1-4 Inner El. Ctrl. Arm Subassembly 1
3 1 Outer Elevator Control Arm 1
4 HB M3x5 Set Screw 1
5 HB M3x4 Pivot Ball Stud 5
6 HB M3x5x3 Spacer 1
7 1 Right Aileron Control Lever 1
8 HB M3x12 Cap Head Bolt 1
Note: The Inner Elevator Control Arm (belongs to Inner Elevator Control Arm Sub
assembly) should be next to the upper right frame.
Note: The Elevator Control Shaft is designed to fit tight in the bearings. Sometime, you
might have to sand it a little to get it go into the bearings.
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1-6-b ANTI-ROTATION GUIDE ASSEMBLY (SPORT MODEL)
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 1-6-a Right Upper Frame (up to step 1-6-a) 1
2 1 Washout Anti-Rot. Guide 1
3 HB M3x5x3 Spacer 2
4 HB M3x45 Cap Head Bolt 2
Note: The Elevator Control Shaft is designed to fit tight in the bearings. Sometime, you
might have to sand it a little to get it go into the bearings.
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1-6-b ANTI-ROTATION GUIDE ASSEMBLY (PRO MODEL)
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 1-6-a Right Upper Frame (up to step 1-6-a) 1
2 1 Washout Anti-Rot. Guide Base 1
3 Frame Washout Anti-Rot. Guide A 1
4 HB M3x5x3 Spacer 2
5 HB M3x10 Cap Head Bolt 2
6 HB M3x6 Cap Head Bolt 2
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1-6-c MAIN SHAFT BEARING BLOCKS
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 1-6-c Right Upper Frame (up to step 1-6-b) 1
2 1 Main Shaft Bearing Block 2
3 HB M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 4
Note: For the Upper Bearing Block, the flange should face down. For the Lower one, the
flange should face up.
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1-6-d FRAME CROSS MEMBERS, PINION GEAR BEARING BLOCK &
TAIL TRANSMISSION
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 1-6-c Right Upper Frame (up to step 1-6-c) 1
2 Step 1-5 Tail Transmission Subassembly 1
3 1 32mm Cross Member 4
4 1 Clutch Bearing Block 1
5 HB M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 12
6 Frame Bulkhead 1
7 1 28mm Cross Member 1
8 1 10mm Spacer 1
9 HB M3x18 Cap Head Bolt 1
10 HB M3x7 Flat Washer 6
Note:
For the Clutch Bearing Block, the side with the smaller bearing should be face up.
Use M3x7 Flat Washers when attaching the Clutch Bearing Block and Tail Transmission
Subassembly to the frame.
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1-6-e UPPER FRAME INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 1-6-d Right Upper Frame (up to step 1-6-d) 1 8 HB M3 Locknut 2*
2 Step 1-2 Left Upper Frame Subassembly 1 9 HB M3x10 Cap Head Bolt 2**
3 HB M3x5x3 Spacer 2 10 1 28mm Cross Member 1
4 1 Left Aileron Control Lever 1 11 1 10mm Spacer 1
5 HB M3x4 Pivot Ball Stud 3 12 HB M3x18 Cap Head Bolt 1
6 HB M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 17 13 HB M3x7 Flat Washer 6
7 HB M3x12 Cap Head Bolt 1
*Note: Pro Version does not need these.
**Note: Sport Version does not need these.
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Attach the right side and left side together using M3x8 Cap Head Bolts. Remember to use M3x7
Flat Washers for attaching the Clutch Bearing Block and Tail Transmission Subassembly to the
frame. Note: The Elevator Control Shaft is designed to fit tight in the bearings. Sometime, you
might have to sand it a little to get it go into the bearings.
Note: The Elevator Control Shaft is designed to fit tight in the bearings. Sometime, you might
have to sand it a little to get it go into the bearings.
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1-7 CLUTCH BELL ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 1 Pinion Gear 1
2 1 Clutch Bell 1
3 1 Clutch Shoe Lining 1
4 HB M4x4 Set Screw 1
5 1 Start Coupler 1
6 1 Start Shaft 1
7***** Electric Tape 1
Install (1) Clutch Lining into (1) Clutch Bell. Note: The recommended adhesives for
installing the clutch lining are JB Weld or 10 Min + Epoxy. Prepare the clutch bell by
scuffing the interior with an x-acto blade or sand paper. Put the Clutch Lining in the
Clutch Bell and mark it for cutting (the length is around 134mm). Cut the Clutch Lining.
Apply the adhesive thin and even and finish the installation by inserting and finishing the
clutch lining.
Then insert the Clutch Shoe into the Clutch Bell. Clean up any excess adhesive. Let it sit
there until the adhesive dry out then take the Clutch Shoe and electric tape off. See the
label on the adhesive bottle for drying time.
Trick: Use electric tape wrap around the Clutch Shoe (in bag # 2) one time.
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Note: It is very important to use a Dialing Indicator to check the run out of the
Clutch Bell. The run out should be no more than 0.004 inch (0.10 mm).
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SECTION 2: LOWER FRAMES Bag 2
2-1 RADIO TRAY ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Frame Front Lower Frame 2
2 Frame Radio Tray 1
3 2 Long Canopy Standoff 2
4 2 60mm Cross Member 1
5 HB M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 4
6 HB M3X10 Cap Head Bolt 4
7 HB M3x5x3 Spacer 4
8 2 M3x6x10 Spacer 2
9 HB M3x18 Cap Head Bolt 2
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2-2 FUEL TANK ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Loose in box Tank Clunk 1
2***** 12 cm Hose 1
3 Loose in box Long Tube 2
4 Loose in box Tank Rubber Plug 1
5 Loose in box Short Tube 1
6 Loose in box Tank Fuel Plug Bottom Flange 1
7 Loose in box Tank Fuel Plug Top Flange 1
8 Loose in box M3x25 Cap Head Bolt 1
9 Loose in box Fuel Tank 1
• There are three (3) lines (Aluminum fuel tubing) that need to be constructed for
the tank assembly. Depending on the engine you use, you may need only two (2)
lines. One line is the fuel pick-up line and requires a length of silicon fuel tubing
running from end of alum. Tube to clunk – which should be centered in tank. The
other line is pressure-line, which should be bent to reach the top of the tank on
the inside. The third line will generally be plugged. Tighten rubber stopper screw
– but do not tighten much.
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• Insert the whole construction into the Fuel Tank. Continue tightening but do not
over tighten or you will ruin rubber stopper!
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2-3 FUEL TANK INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 2-1 Radio Tray Assembly 1
2 Step 2-2 Fuel Tank Assembly 1
3 2 Half Round Cross Member 1
4***** Double Side Tape 1
5 HB M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 2
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2-4 THROTTLE SERVO ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 2-3 Fuel Tank Installation 1
2***** Servo 1
3 HB M2.5x14 Cap Head Bolt 4
4 HB M2.5 Locknut 4
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2-5 LOWER FRAME INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 1 Upper Frame Assembly 1
2 Step 2-4 Lower Frame Assembly 1
3 Frame Rear Frame 2
4 Frame Gyro Tray 1
5 2 One-piece Cross Member 2
6 2 32mm Cross Member 3
7 HB M3x20 Cap Head Bolt 6
8 HB M3x5x3 Spacer 4
9 HB M3x10 Cap Head Bolt 4
10 HB M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 4
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2-6 FRAME ANGLE & SHROUD ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Loose in box Fan Shroud 1
2 2 M2.5x6 Self Taping Screw 4
3 Frame Frame Angle 2
4 2 60 mm Cross Member 1
5 HB M3x10 Cap Head Bolt 4
6 HB M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 4
7 HB M3 Locknut 4
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2-7 ENGINE ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1***** Engine 1
2 2 Fan Hub 1
3 2 Cooling Fan 1
4 HB M3x6 Cap Head Bolt 6
5 2 Engine Hub Collect 1
6 HB M6 Nord-Loc Washer 2
7***** M6 Hex Nut 1
8 2 Clutch Shoe 1
9 2 Engine Mount 1
10 HB M3x10 Cap Head Bolt 4
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Page 36 of 79
Note: it is very important to use a Dialing Indicator to check the run out of the
Engine Assembly. Most of the vibration problems come from this. The run out
should be no more than 0.004 inch (0.10 mm).
Page 37 of 79
Note: Engine Mount may look differently from the one in the kit.
Page 38 of 79
2-8 ENGINE INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 2-7 Engine Assembly 1
2 Step 2-6 Assembly up to step 2-6 1
3 HB M3x10 Cap Head Bolt 4
4 HB M3 Flat Washer 4
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SECTION 3: LANDING GEAR Bag 3
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 2 Assembly up to Section 2 1
2 3 Landing Gear Strut 2
3 3 Landing Gear Skid 2
4 3 Landing Gear End Cap 4
5
6
7
8***** CA Glue 1
• Drill 4 holes in the Landing Gear Struts with a 3mm drill bit with a spacing of 77mm
• Install the Landing Gear Skids into the Struts.
• Apply CA Glue into the Landing Gear End Cap then insert them into the Skids.
• Drill four 2.5mm holes into the little rounds on the ends of the Struts then secure
them with the four M2.5x6 Phillips Screws.
3
3
3
M2.5x6 Self Taping Screws 4
M3x14 Cap Head Bolt 4
M3 Locknut 4
• Install the Main Frames onto the Landing Gear Assembly and secure them with
four M3x14 Cap Head Bolts.
Note: It is recommended to use “Landing Gear Dampener” to reduce vibration. See
“Other Hardware & Optional Accessories” to make order. Landing Gear Dampener is
installed between the Landing Gear and the Landing Supports.
Page 40 of 79
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SECTION 4: DRIVING SYSTEM Bag 4
4-1 MAIN GEAR ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
1 4
2 4 Upper Main Gear 97T 1 5 HB M3x6 Cap Head Bolt 4
3 3 Lower Main Gear Hub 1 6 HB M3x6 Philip Screw Flat Head 4
Lower Main Gear 88T 1 4 4 Auto-rotation Clutch 1
Note: The raised portion of For the Upper Main Gear should be face up.
Page 42 of 79
4-2 MAIN GEAR INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 4-1
2 Step 3 Assembly up to step 3 1 6 HB M3 Locknut 1
3 3 Main Shaft 1 7 HB M3X5 Set Screw 4
4 3 Main Shaft Collar 1
• Slide the Main Gear Assembly in; install the Main Shaft down, then secure with one
M3x22 Cap Head Bolt and one M3 Locknut.
• Install the Main Shaft Collar on the Main Shaft then secure with four M3x5 Set
Screws. Be sure the ridge goes down.
Main Gear Assembly 1 5 HB M3x22 Cap Head Bolt 1
Page 43 of 79
SECTION 5: TAIL ASSEMBLY Bag 5
5-1 TAIL PULLEY GEAR ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 5
2 5 Tail Gear Lock Pin 1
3 5 Tail Pulley Gear 1
4 5 Tail Gear Side Plate 1
5 ***** JP Weld glue 1
Tail Output Shaft 1
Remember apply JP Weld glue around the pin.
Page 44 of 79
5-2 TAIL ROTOR ASSEMBLY
No Bag# Description Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
Frame Tail Case Side Plate 2 10 5 M2.3 Medium Ball Link 2
1
2 5 Tail Pitch Lever Mount 1 11
3 5 5X10X4Flange Bearing 2 12 5 Tail Pitch Control Lever 1
4 HB M2x6 Phillips Screw 2 13 HB M3x5x1 Spacer 1
5 In box Tail Boom (in Box) 1 14 HB M3x16 Cap Head Bolt 1
6 In box Timing Belt (in Box) 1 15 HB M3 Locknut 1
7 HB M3x6 Cap Head Bolt 6 16 Step 5-1 Tail Pulley Gear Assy 1
8
9 HB M3x4Pivot Ball Stud 2 18 HB M3x7 Flat Washer 1
5 Tail Case Cross Member 1
17 HB M2.5x6 Cap Head Bolt 1
5
First, to prevent the Boom End from
rotating, drill a 2.5mm hole on a side of the
Boom End, then secure with an M2.5x6
Cap Head Bolt.
Tail Pitch Slider 1
Install the Bearings into the Tail Case Side
Plates. The flanges should be inside.
Sometimes, the holes are too tight; you
have to sand them a little bit.
Note: Normally you just need one M3x5x1 Spacer between the Tail Pitch Control Lever
and Tail Pitch Lever Mount but you may need two of them in some cases (if you do not
have enough clearance for the lever.)
Page 45 of 79
Page 46 of 79
5-3 TAIL ROTOR INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
1 5 Dual Bearing Tail Rotor 1 9 5 Horizontal Fin Mount 1
2 HB M3x22 Cap Head Bolt 2 10 5 Vertical Fin Mount A 1
3 5 Tail Blade 2 11 5 Vertical Fin Mount B 1
4 5 Tail Blade Spacer 4 12 5 Horizontal Fin* 1
5 HB M2x8 Phillips Screw 2 13 5 Vertical Fin* 1
6 HB Shim Ball 2 14 HB M3 Locknut 4
7 HB M3x6 Cap Head Bolt 2 15 HB M3x30 Cap Head Bolt 2
8 HB M3x5 Set Screw 1 16 Step 5-2 Tail Rotor Assembly 1
• Carbon Fin Set is also available for option.
Page 47 of 79
After installing all the
parts as shown above,
slide this subassembly
on the output shaft then
secure it with one M3x5
Set Screw.
Wrap electric tape around the boom couple times where you are going to install the fin
mounts. Note: Fin set may look lightly differently from the one in the kit.
Page 48 of 79
5-4 TAIL INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qt.
1
2 Step 5-3 Tail Assembly 1
3 In box Boom Support 2
4 5 Boom Support End 4
5 HB M3x12 Cap Head Bolt 2
6 HB M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 2
7 HB M3 Locknut 6
8 HB M3X45 Cap Head Bolt 4
9 5 Boom Holder 2
10***** CA Glue 1
• Note for installing the timing belt: Turn the Tail assembly so that the Tail Output Shaft
pointing upward put the belt onto the Transmission, then twist the Tail Assembly 90
to the right. Make sure the belt not too tight or loose. Tighten the four screws on the
boom holders.
• Measure the Boom Support carefully before cutting. It is a good idea if you install one
end of the rod first, then make the measure then cut it. Remember apply CA Glue for
the rods when installing into the Support Ends.
Step 4 Assembly up to step 4 1
o
Page 49 of 79
Note: Frames may look differently from the one in ki
SECTION 6: CONTROL SYSTEM Bag 6
6-1 SWASHPLATE ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 6 Swashplate Complete 1
2 HB M3x7Pivot Ball Stud 7
3 HB M3 x7 Flat Washer 4
4 HB M2X4 Phillips Screws 7
Note: There are two kinds of the Swashplate. One has little holes (maybe
7, 4, or 3 of them.) The other has no hole on it. Both work the same. If you
got the one with holes, just fill them in with Phillips Screws. If you got the
one with no hole, do not worry about Phillips Screws; the Swashplate still
works well.
Page 50 of 79
6-2 WASHOUT ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
1 6
2
3
4
Washout Base 1 5
Washout Arm 2 6
6
Washout Link 2 7
6
Washout Link Pin 2 8
6
HB M3x5 Set Screw
M3x7Pivot Ball Stud 2
HB
M3x12 Cap Head Bolt 2
HB
M3X5X1 Spacer 2
HB
2
Note: There are some versions of the Washout Base (Item No. 1). All of them work the
same but they should be installed appropriately:
• If L1 is shorter or equal to L2, face A should go up.
• If L1 is longer than L2, face A should go down.
Page 51 of 79
6-3 CONTROL SYSTEM INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Sep 6-1
2
Step 6-2
3
Step 5
4 6 Swash Anti-rotation Pin 1
Swashplate Assembly 1
Washout Assembly 1
Assembly up to step 5 1
Note: the frame may look differently from the one in the kit.
Connect the Washout Links to the 3x7 Pivot Studs on the Washplate.
Page 52 of 79
SECTION 7: ROTOR HEAD Bag 7
7-1 MAIN ROTOR HUB ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
1 7
2
3 7 Center Hub 1 11 7 Thrust Bearing Spacer 2
4
5 7 Head Spindle 1 13 7 M4 x8 Flange Cap Head Bolt 2
6 7 Dampener O-Ring 4
7
8
Main Blade Grip* 2 9
Pitch Arm** 2 10 7 Head Spindle Spacer 2
7
7 Hiller Arm
M3x7 Pivot Ball Stud(1) 2
HB
M3x10 Cap Head Bolt** 4 *Sport version: plastic
HB
**Sport version: Pitch Arms is built in the Main Blade Grips so there is no M3x10 Cap Head Bolts
(1) or four M3x4 Pivot Ball Stud; (2) or two M3x14 Cap Head Bolt
2 12 7 8x16x5 Thrust Bearing 2
14
15
M3X5X3 Spacer 2
HB
7 8x16x5 Regular Bearing 4
M3x12 Cap Head Bolt(2) 2
HB
Note: Some Center Hubs are designed for one O-ring each side. If this is your case, use
one O-ring each side. The beveled edge of the Thrust Bearing Spacer (No. 11) should
be face away from the Center Hub. The flanges of the bearings of the Hiller Arms should
face outside. Usually the Thrust Bearing has three parts: two race washers and caged
ball bearings. The caged ball bearings will be between two race washers. In some cases,
you may get different version of the Thrust Bearing: one race washer, one flat washer,
and caged ball bearings in your kit. That is fine; it still works the same. In this case, you
need to install the flat washer first (next to Thrust Bearing Spacer-No. 11), then the
caged ball bearings, the race washer goes last.
Page 53 of 79
7-2 FLYBAR & SEESAW ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
1 7
2
3
4
5
6 7 Fly-Bar Control Arm A 2 14
7 7 Fly-Bar Control Arm B 2 15
8 In 4mm Standard Flybar 1 16*****
Seesaw 1 9
Seesaw Collar 2 10
7
M3x8 Cap Head Bolt 4 11
HB
M3x7 Pivot Ball Stud 2 12
HB
M4x6x1 Spacer 4 13
HB
HB M3x5 Set Screw
7 4mm Fly-Bar Paddle
7 Short Ball End
Step 7-1
HB
7
7
Main Rotor Hub 1
M3x7 Flat Washer 2
2.3x10mm Linkage Rod 2
Washout Anti-rotation Pin 2
Epoxy Glue/JP Weld 1
Make sure to apply Epoxy Glue/JP Weld to the thread on Flybar when installing the Flybar
Paddle.
2
2
4
Note: The Center Hub and Flybar Control Arm shown may look differently from the ones
in the kit.
Page 54 of 79
7-3 ROTOR HEAD INSTALLATION
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 Step 7-2
2 Step 6-3
3
4
HB
HB
Install the Head Assembly into the Main Shaft, and then secure it by one M3x20 Cap
Head Bolt and one M3 Locknut.
Completed Rotor Head (step 7-2) 1
Helicopter (up to step 6-3) 1
M3x20 Cap Head Bolt 1
M3 Locknut 1
Page 55 of 79
SECTION 8: LINKAGE RODS & SETTINGS Bag 8
8-1 RUDDER PUSH ROD ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
In box Rudder Push Rod 1
1
2 8 Rudder Push Rod End 2
3* 8 Pushrod Guide Clamp-on 1
4** 8 Rudder Pushrod Guide 3
5** 8 Rudder Pushrod Guide Insert 3
6
7
8***** Servo Arm 1
9***** M3 Servo Phillips Screw 1
10
11*****
12*****
HB
HB
*Sport version does not use this part.
**Pro version does not use these parts.
Shim Ball 1
M2x8 Phillips Screw 1
2.3mm Long Ball End 2
8
CA Glue 1
Electric Tape 1
Note: Put electric tape around the Boom before installing the Rudder Push Guide in, so
you can remove them later.
Page 56 of 79
For the Pro Version, the diameter of the Pushrod Guide Clamp-on is a little bit bigger
than the diameter of the boom. Cut off 5-6 teeth of the clamp and wrap the Boom with a
couple of wraps of electrical tape to keep it from slipping.
The length of the Rudder Rod measured from center to center should be around 713 mm.
Page 57 of 79
8-2 LINKAGE ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description Qty
1 8
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
8
8
8
8
8
8
8
2.3 Long Ball End 28
2.3x25mm Rod 2
2.3x35mm Rod 3
2.3x40mm Rod 2
2.3x65mm Rod 2
2.3x80mm Rod 2
2.3x90mm Rod 1
2.3x100mm Rod 2
Coding the Rod Assembly:
All the Linkages should be assembled with dimensions measured center to center and
coded as following:
No. Code Rod Description Center to Center Qty
1
A
2
B
3
C
4
D
5
E
6
F
7
G
Note: Look close to a ball end; you will see one side is different from the other. One has a round
marked on it. The other is just plain. When installing a ball link into a pivot ball stud (or a shim
ball) the side with a round should face away from a ball stud (or shim ball.)
2.3x25mm Rod 51.5 mm 2
2.3x35mm Rod 64 mm 3
2.3x40mm Rod 66.5 mm 2
2.3x65mm Rod 94.5 mm 2
2.3x80mm Rod 110 mm 2
2.3x90mm Rod 124mm 1
2.3x100mm Rod 133 mm 2
Page 58 of 79
8-3 LINKAGE INSTALLATION
No. Code Center to Center Qty No. Bag# Description Qty
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
C
D
E
F
G
A
B
51.5 mm 2 8
64 mm 3 9*****
66.5 mm 2 10
94.5 mm 2 11
110 mm 2 12***** M3 Servo Phillips Screw 4
124mm 1 13***** Throttle Extension 1
133mm Rod 2 14***** M2.5x10 Cap Head Bolt 1
15***** Single Servo Arm 1
8-1
HB
HB
Helicopter (up to step 7) 1
Double Servo Arm 3
Shim Ball 8
M2x8 Phillips Screw 8
Page 59 of 79
Page 60 of 79
Note: the frame may look differently from the one in the kit.
Page 61 of 79
8-4 MUFFLER & HOSES ASSEMBLY
No. Bag# Description
1*****
2*****
3*****
4*****
Note: For some kinds of engines and mufflers, you may have to cut the frame angle to
make room for screws to fit. Although the drawings do not show the valves for hoses,
you need to put one somewhere between the fuel tank and the engine; the other for
refueling hose.
The frame may look differently from the one in the kit.
Muffler 1
M3x35 Cap Head Bolt 2
Hose 3
M3 Locknut 2
Page 62 of 79
Page 63 of 79
8-5 MAIN BLADE INSTALLTION
No. Bag# Description Qty
1
2*****
3*****
4
5 8 M4 Locknut 2
Step 8-4
8
Helicopter (up to step 8-4) 1
Main Blade 2
Main Blade Spacer 4
M4x30 Cap Head Bolt 2
Page 64 of 79
8-6 RADIO SETUP
No. Bag# Description Qty
1
2
3
4
5 ***** Battery for Receiver 1
Step 8-5
*****
*****
*****
Before setting up the radio, you have to install the receiver, gyro, and batteries for your
helicopter. See your radio, receiver, and gyro manuals for how to hook up.
Helicopter (up to step 8-5) 1
Radio 1
Receiver 1
Gyro 1
Note: The frame may look differently from the one in the kit.
Instead of giving you the exact length of each linkage rod we will explain to you what you
are trying to achieve. This is the same for all Quick helicopters. Another thing worth
mentioning is that all controls on our helicopters are leading edge controlled. We have
three such controls on our helicopter and they are Main blades, Tail blade and flybar
control arms. For example the main blade pitch arms should be mounted so they are in
Page 65 of 79
front of the blades in the direction of travel, clockwise if you look at the helicopter from
above, see picture 4.
Your radio manual will be needed during this set up.
First, set your radio so that all travel values are at 100%. If you have a radio with Swash
Mixing set, ser those values to 50% (Aileron, Elevator, and Pitch.) Then use servo
reversing so that all servos are moving in the right direction. If Pitch operates reversed,
change the value in the Swash Mixing from + to -.
Step 1:First set your radio up so that all servos are moving in the right direction and
adjust all travel values to 100%. If you have a radio with Swash mixing values set those
to 50% (Pitch, Aileron and Elevator).
Now center both radio sticks (including “throttle”) and center all trim and sub-trim values.
When this is done turn your receiver pack on. Now mount the servo arms at a 90
towards the linkage rod. In our non push pull helis this will be horizontal. Use the
mounting position on the servo arm that will be closest to 90
100% correct. If they are visible off from the 90
o
position the use the sub-trim function in
o
, not all servos will line up
o
angle
your radio for fine tuning, do not use regular trim for this, see picture 1.
Now you have a good start and the rest of the setup will become easier.
Step 2:Connecting the Swashplate at the right distance. This is done by moving your
Pitch (throttle) stick all the way down, see picture 2. When the servos are in this position
adjust the length of the linkage rods so the Swashplate is located towards the bottom,
but still leaves enough room for left/right (aileron) and front/back (elevator) travel. During
such travel, portions of the Swashplate will move below the Swashplate position
archived during Pitch full down radio stick position. So make sure you leave enough
room for this extra travel, see picture 2 for recommended height. Also make sure that all
3 linkage rods between the servo arms and the Swashplate are the same, so the
Swashplate is level. It should not tilt in any direction; unless your right radio stick is
moved. If it lilts, and all linage rods are the same length, then go back to step one and
make sure your three servo arms have the same neutral position (horizontal on non
push pull helis).
Page 66 of 79
Picture 1, Swash center Picture 2, Swash Down
Step 3:Connecting the Washout assembly. Connect the fixed length plastic “A” arms to
the Swashplate, connect to the two longer pivot studs, if all four are the same length
then any two will do. The next step is to adjust the length of the linkage rod between the
Washout Arm and the Flybar connection point. Turn your radio and receiver back on and
center both sticks. Now adjust the length of the flybar linkage so the washout arms are
level (horizontal), see picture 1. Also make sure your flybar arms and flybar-paddles are
level (horizontal), when adjusting the linkage. After the length is adjusted make sure that
you have free travel in all directions and stick positions. When the Pitch stick is all the
way up it should look like picture 3. As you can see there is still plenty of room for aileron
and elevator travel. Now adjust the Washout Anti-rotation pin height so the pin is still in
the guide slot of the washout base during all travel positions. For the Left/Right Washout
Anti-rotation position, line the attachment point of the plastic washout “A” arm on the
Swashplate up with flybar linkage connection point. The imaginary line between these
points should be vertical.
Now you are almost done, only one set of links left, and the length of those links will be
depending on your desired setup whether it's Aerobatic or normal flying. Please refer to
the Pith travel setup table for this final link length.
Picture 3, Swash Up
Page 67 of 79
Picture 4, Head
Picture 5, Tail Center Picture 6, Tail Positive Thrust
Picture 7, Tail Negative Thrust Picture 8, Tail
Collective Position Normal Flying Aerobatic
Up (100%) +10o +10o
Center (50%) +5
Down (0%) -3o -10
Page 68 of 79
Pitch Travel Setup
o
+0o
o
Throttle Curve Setup
Electric
Flying
Collective Position
Normal
Flying
Fuel
Aerobatic
(non governor mode)
Normal
Up (100%) 100% 100% 85% 85%
Center (50%) 70% 60% 75% 75%
Down (0%) 10% 100% 0% 85%
Aerobatic
Page 69 of 79
First adjust the servo arm position like you did with the swash, make sure your trim and
sub-trim values are centered. Attach the servo arm so it's 90
(vertical). Now adjust your two plastic ball ends, for the push rod, so they are screwed on
about half way onto the threaded pushrod guide end piece. This will allow you have
maximum amount of adjustment available in both directions. Use the outer holes on the
tail blade grips for the ball link attachments. When this is done cut the carbon pushrod to
a length that will achieve about 3
o
of positive pith on your tail blades, when the servo is
in its neutral (vertical) position. Then glue the two end pieces on to the pushrod with CA
glue, don't forget to insert the pushrod guides first.
o
to the tail pushrod
When this is done you should have 3
o
of positive tail blade pitch. The tail should spin
counter clockwise looking at the right side of the helicopter with the nose to your right
and tail to your left. See pictures 5-8.
Note: Please consult the instruction for your Gyro for setting the overall travel and limits
to ensure proper operation and travel of Tail Pitch Slider.
The throttle cure will be affected by several conditions; some of them are, motor choice,
blades choice, elevation, temperature, helicopter weight and type of helicopter. So in
order to explain this I will explain what you are looking for. Your goal is to achieve a
constant head speed once the helicopter is airborne. If you ad pitch (climb) you need to
ad power (throttle) to compensate for the added resistance a higher blade pitch creates.
If during climb your head speed drops, then you need to add throttle to that particular
stick position, and reversed if you have an increase in rpm. If during max climb out you
experience an increase in head speed then you need to give the blades a higher pitch,
do not try to adjust the max climb rpm by reducing throttle. There are other ways of
achieving this by using cyclic mixing, however we will stay away from this for now.
Follow the pitch guidelines in the table above, and if you need more pitch at max power
because the rpm is increasing, then add pitch. 10
most setups, but a powerful motor or a light helicopter might need more. For rpm
adjustment during anything other than full stick deflection you should use the throttle.
o
is just a guideline and will work in
A short recap, adjust throttle to adjust rpm during anything other than full collective. At
full collective adjust the pitch. See the Throttle table for general setup.
These are guidelines and will get you going but might not be 100% accurate in regards to
all helicopters. Especially the throttle curve table should be considered as initial guidelines.
As mentioned before it's greatly affected by your equipment. As you become more familiar
and proficient with your helicopter you can change the pitch and throttle curves to your
flying style.
Page 70 of 79
8-7 CANOPY MOUNTING
No. Bag# Description Qty
1
2
In box
3 8 Canopy Grommet 4
4
HB
Helicopter 1
Canopy 1
M3x10 Cap Head Bolt 4
• Put the Canopy on the helicopter, mark the right
positions for 4 holes, and then drill four 5.5mm holes.
• Install the Canopy Grommets on the Canopy.
• Secure the Canopy by 4 M3x16 Cap Head Bolts.
Note: The frame may look differently from the one in the kit.
Page 71 of 79
PRE-FLIGHT CHECKS
• The rotor flybar and shaft must be straight.
• The flybar and control paddles must tilt in the proper direction and operates smoothly
throughout the whole range.
• Check the swashplate to make sure it move smoothly and clean.
• When control input are given to tilt the swashplate, make sure no control arms or
pushrods are binding.
• Check the two control paddles for level, parallel, and proper direction.
• Make sure the batteries are fully charged and the fuel tank is full.
• Make sure the radio and receiver are on and all controls operate properly before
flight.
• There should be no interference of radio signal in your flying zone. Range check the
radio.
• Always grab onto the helicopter main rotor head when turning on the helicopter.
These pictures illustrate how everything should be neatly wired up and strapped down
before your helicopters first flights.
Page 72 of 79
WARNINGS
• Do not operate helicopters in rainy, windy, or snowy condition.
•
Operate helicopter in a safe zone away from crowds, traffic, or distractions.
•
Use the proper batteries to prevent damage to the motor and equipment.
Make sure all the batteries are fully and properly charged and the fuel tank is full.
•
•
Make sure all the controls operate properly before flight.
•
The main and tail rotors blades operate at very high speed (rpm); therefore,
make sure nothing can come into contact with them while they are spinning.
•
Perform a range check on the radio before flying.
•
Make sure the transmitter and receiver are turned on before starting the engine
•
Keep a safe distance when operating a helicopter.
•
Do not fly for a long period of time. Take some rests during flights.
•
Motors are often very hot after operation. So be careful when handling or
touching them immediately after flying.
Page 73 of 79
ADJUSTMENTS
Tracking Adjustment: The tips of the main rotor blades should follow the same
path when they rotate. We call the main rotor blades are in track.
(a) Rev up the motor until the helicopter becomes light on its landing gear.
Raise throttle
gently and
gradually
(b) If the main rotor blades are in track, it’s good.
(c) If the blades are out of track, then adjust one of the pushrods that connect to the
main rotor blade pitch arm.
Out of track
Repeat steps (a) to (c) until the blades are in track.
Trimming: Most of new built helicopters are unstable. But if you trim your helicopter
properly, you will stop it from drifting away or yawing by itself quickly. Followings are
instructions for trimming your helicopter.
(a) If the helicopter nose starts to
compensate. If using a Heading Hold Gyro, do not adjust the trim lever on the radio.
yaw left or right, adjust the tail rotor push rod to
(b) If the helicopter rolls to left or right, then:
Page 74 of 79
•
Rolls to the left, move the
button to R
• Rolls to the right, move the
button to L
L R
(c) If the helicopter nose goes down or up, then:
• Goes up, move the stick
to U
• Goes down, move the
stick to D
U
D
HOW TO HOVER
Basic maneuver for a pilot is learning how to hover a helicopter. When the helicopter is
floating in a stationary position in the air, we call that hovering. Use the following
procedure to practice your hovering:
(a) Make sure everything is clear in the flying zone. Stand at least 30 feet (10 meters)
behind the helicopter.
(b) Check the main rotor fore/aft and left/right cyclic to make sure the main rotor is
following to your cyclic command before taking off. Make sure the helicopter nose
will swing in your desired directions by moving the tail rotor control stick.
(c) Now, increase the throttle/collective gently to lift the helicopter landing gear off the
ground to no more than 4 inches (10 cm). At the beginning, it is very difficult for the
pilot to keep the helicopter from moving. It will also be difficult to know if the
helicopter is in trim or not for a beginner. Keep going on the practice close to ground
you will develop your skills.
(d) Keep practicing lifting your helicopter no more than 8 inches (20cm) from the ground
until you feel comfortable with control commands. Once you can keep it at one place,
then it is time to slowly increase the height a few inches in each fight. Soon, you will
Page 75 of 79
be able to hover the helicopter confidently at a few feet high. Beginners should
always practice hovering close to ground since in an emergency situation; you can
drop the throttle and collective quickly without making any big damage.
4 ~ 8 inches
(e) Stand behind the helicopter so you can watch the nose of the helicopter. A left tail
rotor command will yaw the helicopter nose to the left, and a right command will yaw
to the right. Also, a left cyclic command will cause the helicopter to translate left.,
Start practice hovering while standing to either side of the model after you can
comfortably hover the helicopter at 3 feet (1m) high without drifting. Finally, you need
to learn hovering the model from any positions. When you can confidently hover a
helicopter at any altitude and at any position, you have mastered most of the
fundamental control movements of a helicopter.
Page 76 of 79
HOW TO FLY FORWARD
Once you have mastered hovering fight:
(a) Let’s begin the exercise of changing positions by practice moving the helicopter to
the left or right slowly from 60 inches (1.5 m) above the ground.
Hovering at 60 inches
(b) Once you have been comfortable with all the movements and controls in the
previous step, start using some tail rotor control to make the helicopter point slightly
to the left or right as you fly it to the left or right. Keep practicing the figure-eight path
as shown below, you will master all basic control movements of a helicopter.
Page 77 of 79
AFTER-FLIGHT CHECKS
After each flight, the helicopter should be thoroughly inspected:
(a) Unplug the batteries.
(b) Check every bolt, nut, and screw to make sure none has loosened due to vibration.
(c) Check every rotating and movable part like head rotor, swashplate, tail rotor, to ensure
they still move smoothly and properly.
(d) Check all movable parts, such as gears, ball links, belt, etc. for unusual wear.
(e) Clean up the helicopter then lubricate every moving part with oil to ensure a smooth
operation in the future.
(f) Keep the helicopter in a cool and dry place. Avoid storage under direct sun light or
near heat.
(g) Please replace any damaged parts if they are discovered during maintenance.
WHAT IF THE HELICOPTER CRASHED
Turn off everything and check the helicopter immediately. If any item is damaged,
replace the damaged parts to ensure safe operation. Do not try to glue any broken or
damaged plastic or carbon parts specially broken rotor blades. The followings are parts
that should be inspected right away:
• Main and tail rotor blades.
• Flybar, main shaft, head spindle, and tail output shaft.
• All the gears.
• Tail boom and supports for cracks.
• Vertical and horizontal fins.
• Frames.
• All pushrods.
• Servos, motor, and batteries.
Page 78 of 79
SPECIFICATIONS
Specification Quick 50
Blades Quick 580-600 mm
Length 1115 mm
Height 450 mm
Fully Equipped Weight ~ 7.5 lbs (3.40 kg)
Engine 50-70
Frame Thickness 2.0-2.2 mm
Spindle 8.0 mm
Main Shaft 10 mm
Canopy Fiberglass
Flying Aerobatic / 3D
Page 79 of 79
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